





l^^:^^;--W 







Class 






Book 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2011 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/flowersofcelebra01adam 



4 ih 







I'.* 




BALTIM OHE. 

/'///>/ 'tali, ,/ h M.SlorarC. 



THE 

BFJL©TO3BJBB 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS; 

BEING A SELECTION FROM THE MOST 

ELEGANT, ENTERTAINING AND INSTRUCTIVE 

TKAVEL8. 



BY THE REV. JOHN ADAMS, A. M. 



Delectando. pariterque monendo. — Hor. 

Travels are the most instructive School oj Man. — Savary. 



SECOND AMERICAN EDITION. 



BALTIMORE : i 
PUBLISHED BY MORDECAI STEWART. 

1834. 




'j jLtM 6 







PavVLdM}^ ^ 




ur- 



t> 



.A/ 



Ji&VERTIgEMEMT. 



NO books whatever- are more instructive and 
entertaining than books of Travels. They are par- 
ticularly well adapted to young people. They sa- 
tisfy that eager thirst after knowledge, which is 
found very strong in early life, and they interest the 
mind as much as a novel. They make it usefully 
inquisitive, and furnish it with matter for reflection, 

With regard to the following selection, it is only 
necessary to observe, that perhaps there never was 
brought together, in so small a compass, in any 
language, a more copious collection of rational en- 
tertainment than will be met with in this volume; 
and in this opinion the editor of a popular and dis- 
tinguished monthly journal agrees; as the follow- 
ing extract will prove. 

"Mr. Adams has made a very entertaining selec- 
tion from the books that have been published with- 
in our memory, by travellers of different countries, 
as Lord Ly ttelton, Sir W. Hamilton, Baron de Tott, 
Dr. Moore, Dr. Van Troil, Messrs. Brydone, Coxe, 
Wraxall, Savary, Swinburne, Lady M. W, Montague, 
£>c The works, at large, of all these writers, have 
been reviewed by us in the course of our undertak- 
ing; and we think that Mr. Adams hath judiciously 
extracted the most proper passages for a miscella- 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



ny of this kind, which to young readers, who are 
fond of perusing books of authentic travels cannot 
fail of furnishing the most profitable and innocent 
amusement." Monthly Rev. Vol. LXXX. P. 83. 

To which is added, entertaining and instructive 
extracts from the Travels of Sir George Staunton, 
in his Embassy to China; Bruce's Travels in Abys- 
sinia to discover the source of the Nile; Vaillant's 
Tour in the Interior of Africa; Stedman's Trav- 
els in South America; Townson's Journey in Hun- 
gary; Miss Williams's Travels in Switzerland; Rad- 
cliffe's Travels in France; Murphy's Travels in Por- 
tugal; De Page's Travels in Africa; and Campbell's 
.Route over land from India; as well as many others 
too numerous to particularise. 



OORffifflSTO* 



Sec 4 * Page. 

I. Of the Volcanoes in Iceland, and particularly Mount Hecla. Dr. Troil. 9 

II. Of the Warm Baths, and Hot Spouting Springs of Water in Iceland. 

ibid - . .11 

III. Of the Manners of the Icelanders, ibid. . . . . - 13 

IV. Of the Food of the Icelanders ibid. - - - - 14 

V. Of the Manners of the Modern Egyptians. Savary. - - - 15 

VI. Of the River Nile. Baron de Tott. - . - 16 

VII. Of the Manners and general Character of the French. Dr. Moore - 19 

VIII. Of the Complimental Phrases used by the French, ibid. - - 23 

IX. Of Geneva, ibid. ........ 26 

X. Of tae Glaciers of Savoy, ibid. - , ... 28 

XI. Of Voltaire, ibid. - ..... 32 

XII. Of Shaff hausen in Swisserland; of the bridge over the Rhine; and 

of the fall of the Rhine Coxe. - - ... 35 

XIII. Of Gesner the Author of the Death of Abel, and Lavater the Physi- 

ognomist, ibid- - - - - ...40 

XIV. Expedition across the Valley of Ice, in the Glacier of Montanvert, 

A. D. 1776 ibid. - - - - 43 

XV. Of Berne in Swisserland. ibid. - - - . - 46 

XVI. Of the Price of Provisions in Swisserland, A. D. 1776. ibid. 49 
XVIF. General Reflections upon the Thirteen Swiss Cantons, A. D. 1776. 

ibid .... . ... 50 

XVIII. Of Frankfort, A. D. 1775 Dr. Moore. - - - - 53 

XIX. Of the Queen of Denmark, A D. 1775. ibid. - - - 55 

XX. Of the Palace at Potsdam, and the King of Prussia, A. D. 1775. ibid. 57 

XXI. Of the Hereditary Prince of Prussia, ibid. - . 64 

XXII. Of the Emperor of Germany, ibid. - - - - » 65 

XXIII. Of the Idolatry of the Roman Catholics, ibid. - - 68 

XXIV. Of Copenhagen, A D 1774 Wraxall. - - " - - 70 

XXV. Of the Court of Copenhagen, ibid. - - - - 72 

XXVI. Of Stockholm, A. D 1774. ibid. - - 77 

XXVII. Of Petersburg-, A. D 1774. ibii. - - - - 80 

XXVIII. Of Bremen, A. D. 1774. ibid - - - - - 85 

XXIX. Conversation at Courtray in Flanders, with an impatient Passenger 

for the Departure of a Diligence. Douglas. - - - - 88 

XXX- A Sermon to English Travellers, ibid. - .... 91 

XXXI. Of the City of Canton, in China. Chinese Traveller. - 93 

XXXII. Of the Policy and Government of China, ibid. - 98 

XXXIII. Of Confucius, ibid - 101 

XXXIV- Of the Number of Inhabitants in China; and of the Chinese Lan- 
guage, ibid. - - - - - ... 106 

XXXV. Of the Tea Plant, ibid. - - . - - - 108 

XXXVI- Of the Private life of the Egyptian Ladies. Savary. - - 110 

XXXVII. Of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. Brydone. ... 115 

XXXVIII. Of Strombolo. ibid - - - - - - 118 

XXXIX. An Account of the Eruption of Mount Vesuvius, which happened 

in August, 1779. Sir VV. Hamilton. - - - - 120 
XL. Of Mount .Etna. May 29, 1770. Brydone. - - - 125 
XLI A view. of the Stars and Rising Sun from Mount JEtna. ibid. - - 129 
XLII- Of the descent from Mount JEtna; of its Height; and of the Elec- 
tricity of the Air near Volcanoes, ibid. ... 134 
XLIII, Of Modern Rome. Sharp, . - 139 



Vi CONTENTS. 

Sect. Page. 

XLXV. Of (he Modern Romans. Dr. Moore. - - - - 142 
XLV. Description of Pompey's Pillar, in the neighbourhood of Alexandria, 

in Egypt, and an Anecdote of some English Sea Officers there. 

Irwin- _...-.-. 144 

XLVI. Of the Modern Persians. Hanway. ... - 146 

XLVII. Of the Manner of ordering Silkworms at Ghilan in Persia, ibid. 149 

XLVIII. Of the Hot Baths of Sophia. Lady M. W. Montague. - - 149 
XLIX. Of the Nature of the Turkish Government; and of the Grand Sig- 

nior's Procession to the Mosque- ibid. - - - 151 

I,. Of the Persons and Manners of the Turkish Ladles, ibid. - - 152 
LI. Of the Pleasant Situation of Adrianople, and the manner in which 

the Turks pass their Time there, ibid. ... - 154 

LII. Of the Entertainment given by the Grand Vizer's Lady. ibid. - - 156 

LIU. Of Constantinople, ibid. _..--.- 157 

LIV. Verses addressed to Lady M. W. Montague. Pope. - 159 
LV. A singular Head Dress — a singular custom. Sir William Temple's 

Opinion of Holland. Tour through Holland. ... 160 
LVI. Of the Character and Manners of the Venetians. Dr. Moore. - - 151 

LVII. Of the Situation of Venice, its Canals and Bridges, ibid . ♦ 164 

LVIII. Of various Natural Beauties in Wales. Lord Lyttelton. - * - 166 

Lrx. Of Carnarvon, and the Islo of Anglesea. ibid. - - - 171 

LX. A travelling Anecdote at Machynlleth in Wales. Tour through Wales. 174 
LXl. Of Dublin and the Hospitality of the Irish, A. D. 1774. Tour 

through Ireland. - - - - .--176 

LXII. Of the comparative Merit of the French and English. Sherlock. - 181 
LXIII. Character of the French Ladies compared with that of the English. 

ibid - - - 184 

LXIV. Of Venice, A. D. 1773. - - - - - 185 
LXV. Account of a dreadful Inundation of the Sea at Ingeram on the coast 

of Coromandel in the East Indies. William Parson. - - 190 

LXVl. Of Montpelier in the South of France, A. D. 1775. Wrasall. - 193 
LXVH. Of the Fertility of the Country between Bourdeaux and Agen. 

ibid. - - - - - - - - 195 

LXVHI. An Account of the different W r ays that lead into Italy. Tour 

through Italy. - - - - - - -197 

LXIX. Character of the Italians, A- D. 1776. Sherlock. - - - 201 

LXX. Two Curious Remarks- ibid. ..... 202 

LXXI. The Reasons why the French have more Wit and better Spirits 

than the English, ibid - - - ... 208 
LXXII. Of Edinburgh, A. D. 1774. Topham. - - - 204 
LXXIII. A singular Anecdote, ibid. .... - 207 
LXXIV. Of the Hospitality and Good Breeding of the Scotch; their Lan- 
guage, particular Beauties of it, and Expressions, ibid- - - 209 
LXXV. Of the Suppers of the Scotch, and their Manner of conducting 

them. ibid. - - .... . 212 
I. XXVI- On the Civility of the Common People in Scotland, ibid. - - 214 
LXXVH. Of the Public and Private Diversions of the Inhabitants of Edin- 
burgh; and the Manner of educating the Young Ladies, ibid. - 217 
LXXVIH. Of the Hague and Rotterdam Lady M- W. Montague. - - 221 
LXXIX. Another Account of Rotterdam and the Hague, A. D. 1784. 

Tour through Holland. - ...... 222 

LXXX. Of Lcyden. ibid. - - - - ... 226 

LXXXI. Of Amsterdam, ibid. ....... 228 

LXXXII. Of Antwerp and Brussels, ibid. - ... 234 

LXXXIII- Of Barcelona in Spain. Swinburne. - ... 236 

LXXXIV. Of the Flocks on the Pyrenean Mountains. Young. - - 210 

LXXXV. Of Madrid, A. D. 1778. Swinburne. .... 246 

LXXXVI. Of the Royal Family of Spain, ibid. - ... 249 

LXXX VII. Character of the Spaniards, ibid. - '- - . 252 

LXXX VIII. Of .the Spanish Ladies, ibid. . - - - 257 

LXXXIX. Anecdote of a Friar, ibid. ..... 258 



CONTENTS. v ii 

Sect. Page. 

XC. Of the Baths of Bagneres. ibid. . . . . 259 

XCI. Journey into the Heart of the Pyrenean Mountains, ibid. . . 261 
XCH. Of Portugal in general; the Produce of the Country, and the Cus- 
toms and Manners of the People. Tour through Portugal. . . 266 
XCIIY. Of Norway, and Bergen its Capital: Bishop of Bergen. . . 268 

XCIV. Of the Persons, Dress, Employments and Customs of the Inhabi- 
tants, ibid - . . . . . . . 272 

XCV. Of the Houses of the Norwegians, ibid. . 274 

XC VI. Of the Animals of Norway, ibid. . ■ ... 275 

XCVII. Of Lapland. Travels through Lapland. . ... 276 

XCVIII. The Maimer of travelling in Sledges drawn by Rein-Deer. ibid. 277 
XCIX. The Ceremonies of a Lapland Funeral, ibid. .... 279 

C. Of the intense Cold experienced by some Gentlemen sent by the King 
of France to determine the Eigpre of the Earth at the Polar Cir- 
cle. Maupertuis. . . . . ... 281 

CI. Of the Beauty ot the Northern Lights in Lapland, ibid- ., . 283 

CII. Of St. Andrews' in Scotland. Dr. Johnson. .... 285 

CHI. Of Inverness, ibid. . 288 

CIV- Description of a Highland Cottage, ibid. • . . . 292 

CV. Of the Climate, Soil, Produce, and Animals of the Hebrides, partic- 
ularly of Sky. ibid. . . . . . .293 

CVI. Of the Inhabitants and Houses of the Hebrides, ibid. . . . 297 

CVII. Of the Hebridian Tables, ibid. . . . . 300 

CVIII. Of Gesner's Monument. Stolberg- .... 302 

CIX. Presentation of the British Ambassador to the Chinese Emperor, at 

his Summer Residence in Tartary. Staunton. . . . 304 

GX. Progress of the Embassy along the River Pei-ho towards the Capital 
of China — Burying Ground detached from Temples — Singular 

Ceremony of Respect towards the Emperor Ice applied to 

Fruits — Bread not Baked — Chinese Theatre — Wheelbarrows with 
Sails, ibid. . . . . .... 308 

CXI. Reflections on Switzerland — Manners — Amusements. Miss Williams. 312 
CXII. Of Lavater — Mons. la Harpe. ibid. .... 316 

CXIU. Of the Theophilanthropists. ibid. . . . . . 320 

CX1V Ornamented Graves at Balstal. ibid. .... 321 

CXV. Curiosities at Basil — Comparative view of French and Swiss Peasan- 
try before the Revolution — Serfs, ibid. .... 323 

CXVI. Altorf— William Tell— Ascent to St. Gothard. ibid. . . . 327 

CXVII. Travels through England in 1782, in which the Manners and Cus- 
toms of the English are described, in a Letter to a Friend, by a 
Literary Gentleman of Berlin. M. Moritz. . . . . 329? 

CXVni. Of the Houzouanas in Africa. Vaillant, ... . 341 

CXIX. Of the African Elephants, ibid. . . ... 352 

CXX. Persons and Qualifications of the Aborigines of North America. 

Bartram. ........ 355 

CXXI. Government and Civil Society of the Aborigines of North America. 

ibid. f . . . . 361 

CXXn. Description of the Indians, Aborigines of Guiana in South America; 

from a Narrative of an Expedition to Surinam. Capt, Stedman. 365 
CXXHI. Wonderful Effect from the Biting of a Bat. ibid. . . . 370 

CXXIV. Of Mermaids, ibid. . , , . . 371 

CXXV. Description of Aleppo the Capital of Syria. Campbell- . . 372 
CXXVI. Of the Turkish Government, ibid. ' . . . 374 

CXXVH. A curious Circumstance that occurred during Mr- Campbell's 

stay at Aleppo, ibid. ... ... 376 

CXXVni. Syracuse — Atmospherical Heat — Ice a Medicine — Snow preserv- 
ed by the Ancients — Of the Papyrus — The Fountain of Arethusa 
— Catacombs — Count Stolberg. , . .... 380 

CXXIX. Of Oporto, A. D. 1790. Murphy's Travels. . . .388 

CXXX. Thoughts inspired by the Alps — St. Ambrosio — Rivoli — The Comic 

Opera — Plains of Lombardy— Assassinations and Gaming. . . 389 



Viii CONTENTS. 

Sett. Page. 

CXXXI. Of Turin, the Capital of Piedmont. Stolberg. . . 392 

CXXXII. Visit to Batavia, and Bantam in the Island of Java; Nutmeg-plant; 

Clove; Cinnamon; Pepper; Poison-tree. Staunton. . . 394 

CXXXIII. Island of Madeira; Story of an Englishman, the supposed dis- 
coverer of Madeira; Produce and Trade of the Island, ibid. . . 405 
CXXXrV. Learned Institutions, and Public Libraries of Vienna. Townson. 407 
CXXXV. Admirable description of a Tartar, employed by a celebrated 
Traveller, to conduct him to Bagdad, with other curious particu- 
lars. Campbell. . . ... ... 408 

CXXXVI Curious Description of the Timber Floats on the Rhine. Mrs. 

Radcliffe. . . . . . .... 419 

CXXXVII. A short Account of a Journey to the Glacieres, in Savoy. Writ- 
ten in the form of a Letter to Lady Mary Blair. By J. Weber. . 421 
CXXXVHI. A Picturesque Description, by the elegant Authoress of the 
Mysteries of Udolpho, on a Journey made in the Summer of 1794, 
through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany. . . 429 
CXXXIX. A general Description of the African Negroes. Stedman's 

Surinam. ........ 435 

CXL Mr. Bruce at the Source of the Nile. Bruce's Travels. . . . 441 

CXLI. Canton — Population of China — Chinese Language. Sir. G. Staunton. 448 
CXLII. Description of a Group of Negroes, as imported to be sold for Slaves. 

Stedman's Surinam. ... . . . 452 

CXLIII- Wonderful Sagacity in Wild Bees. ibid. .... 455 

CXLIV Of the Original Inhabitants of the Brazils — Cochineal Insect. Sir 

G. Staunton. ...... . 456 

CXLV. Amusements of Paris. Miss Williams. .... 458 

CXLVI. Curious Account of the Troglodytes in Arabia. Montesquieu. 460 
CXL VII- Elephants trained for War and killed for Food in Cochin-China — 
Milk not used as Food — Mountain Rice — Manners and Customs of 
.the Cochin-Chinese. Sir G. S'aunton. ... . 467 

CXLVI1I Vineyards and wine of Tokay in Hungary. Dr. Townson. . . 469 
CXLIX. Cicero's Villa at Pompeii Stolberg. . . 471 

CL. Schlosser the Philosopher. Kobreuter the Botanist, . . . 47? 







^x 



THE 



OF 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 



SECTION I. 

Of the Volcanoes in Iceland, and particularly Mount Hecta. 

UPON our arrival in Iceland, on the 28th of August 1772, we 
saw a prospect before us, which, though not pleasing, was un- 
common and surprising. Whatever presented itself to our view 
bore the marks of devastation; and our eyes, accustomed to be- 
hold the pleasing coasts of England and Scotland, now saw only 
the vestiges of the operation of a fire," heaven knowfc how ancient! 

The description of a country, where, quite close to the sea, 
you perceive almost nothing but craggy cliffs vitrified by fire, and 
where the eye loses itself in high and rocky mountains, covered 
with eternal snow, cannot possibly produce such emotions, as at 
first sight might entirely prepossess the thinking spectator. It is 
true, beauty is pleasing both to our eyes and our thoughts, but 
wonderful nature often makes the most lasting impressions. 

We cast anchor not far from the dwelling-place of the celebrat- 
ed Sturleson, where we found two tracks of lava, of which the 
last in particular was remarkable, since we found there, besides a 
large field covered with lava, which must have been liquid in the 
highest degree, whole mountains of turf. Chance had directed 
lis exactly to a spot, on which we could better than on any part- 
of Iceland, consider the operations of a fire, which had laid waste 
a tract of sixty or seventy English miles. We spent several days 
here in examining every thing with so much the more pleasare, 
as we found ourselves, as it were, in a new world. 
2 



10 THE FLOWERS Or 

We had now seen almost all the effects of a volcano, except the 
crater from which the fire had proceeded. In order, therefore, to 
examine this likewise, we undertook a journey of twelve days, to 
mount Hecla itself. We travelled ahout 300 miles over an unin- 
terrupted track of lava, and gained the pleasure of being the first 
who ever reached the summit of this celebrated volcano. The 
cause that no one had been there before, is partly founded in su- 
perstition, and partly in the extreme difficulty of the ascent, be- 
fore the last eruption of fire. There was not one of our company 
who did not wish to have his clothes a little singed, only for t he- 
sake of seeing Hecla in a blaze; and we almost flattered ourselves 
with this hope, for the bishop of Shallholt had informed us by 
letter, in the night between the 5th and 6th of September, the 
day before our arrival, that flames had proceeded from it; but now 
the mountain was more quiet than we wished. We however pass- 
ed our time very agreeably from one o'clock in the morning till 
two in the afternoon, in visiting the mountain. We were even so 
happy, that the clouds, which covered the greatest part of it, dis- 
persed towards the evening, and procured us the most extensive 
prospect imaginable. 

The mountain is something above 5000 feet high, and separates 
at the top into three points, of which that in the middle is the 
highest. The most inconsiderable part of the mountain consists of 
lava, the rest is ashes, with hard solid stones thrown from the 
craters, together with some pomice-stones, of which we found on- 
ly a small piece, with a little native sulphur. A description of 
the various kinds of stones to be found here would be too prolix, 
and partly unintelligible. 

.Amongst many other craters of openings, four were peculiarly 
remarkable; the first, the lava of which had taken the form of 
stacks of chimneys, half broken down; another from which water 
had streamed; a third, all the stones of which were red as brick; 
and lastly, one from which the lava had burst forth in a stream, and 
was divided at some distance into three arms. 

I have said before, that we were not so happy as to see Hecla 
vomit fire. But there was sufficient traces of its burning inward- 
ly: for, on the upper half of it, covered with snow four or five 
inches deep, we frequently observed spots without any snow; and 
on the highest point, where Farenheit's thermometer was 24° in 
the air, it rose to 153° when it was set down on the ground; and 
in some little holes it was so hot, that we could no longer observe 
the heat with a small pocket thermometer. It is not known 
whether, since the year 1693, Hecla has been burning, till 1776, 
when it began to vomit flames on the 1st of April, burnt for a long 
while, and destroyed the country many miles round. In Decem- 
ber, 1771^, some flames likewise proceeded from it; and the peo- 
ple in the neighbourhood believe it will begin to burn again very 
soon, as they pretend to have observed that the rivers thereabouts 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 11 

are drying up. It is believed that this proceeds from the moun- 
tain's attracting the water, and is considered as a certain sign of 
an impending eruption. Dr. Troil. 



SECTION II. 

Of the Warm Baths and Hot Spouting Springs of water in 

Iceland. 

THESE waters have different degrees of warmth, and are, on 
that account, divided by the inhabitants themselves into warm 
baths, and springs that throw up the water to a considerable height. 
The first are found in several other parts of Europe, though I do 
not beleive that they are employed to the same purposes in any 
other place; that is to say, the inhabitants do not bathe in them 
here merely for their Health, but they are likewise the occasion 
for a scene of gallantry. Here poverty prevents the lover from 
making presents to his fair one, and nature presents no flowers of 
which garlands elsewhere are made. It is therefore customary, 
that instead of all this, the swain perfectly cleanses one of these 
baths, which is to be afterwards honoured with the visits of his 
bride. 

The springs that throw up the water in the air, deserve more 
attention. I have seen a great number of them, but will only say 
something of the # two most remarkable. Near Laugervatan, a 
small lake of about a mile in circumference, which is two days' 
journey from Hecla, I saw the first hot spouting springs; and I 
must confess, that it was one of the most beautiful sights I ever 
beheld. The morning was uncommonly clear, and the sun had 
already begun to gild the tops of the neighbouring mountains. It 
was. so perfect a calm, that the lake on which swans were swim- 
ming, was as smooth as a looking-glass, and round about it arose, 
in eight different places, the stream of the hot springs, which lost 
itself high in the air. 

Water was spouting from all these springs; but one, in particu- 
lar, continually threw up in the air a column from eighteen to 
twenty-four feet high, and from six to eight feet diameter. The 
water was extremely hot. A piece of mutton, and some salmon- 
trouts, as also a ptarmigan, were almost boiled to pieces in six 
minutes, and tasted excellently. I wish it were in my power to 
give such a description of this place as it deserves; but I fear it 
would always remain inferior in point of expression: so much is 
certain at least, that nature never drew from any one a more 
cheerful homage to her great Creator, than I here paid him. 

The description of the most remarkable water spout will ap- 
pear almost incredible; but every part of it is perfectly true, for I 
would not aver any thing but what I have seen myself. At Gyser, 



12 THE FLOWERS OF 

not far from Shallholt, one of the episcopal sees ol Iceland, a most 
extraordinary large spouting fountain is to be -seen, with which 
the celebrated water-works at Marly and St. Cloud, and at Casscl, 
and Herrenhausen near Hanover, can hardly be compared. • One 
sees here, within the circumference of three English miles, forty 
or fifty boiling springs together, which 1 believe, all proceed from 
one and the same reservoir. In some, the water is perfectly clear, 
in others, thick and clayey; in some, where it passes through a 
fine ochre, it is tinged red as scarlet; and in others, where it flows 
over a paler clay, it is white as milk. 

The largest spring, which is in the miadle, particularly engag- 
ed our attention the whole day that we spent here, from six in 
the morning till seven at night. The aperture through which the 
water arose, is nineteen feet in diameter; round the top of it is a 
bason, which, together with the pipe, has the form of a cauldron. 
The margin of the bason is upwards of nine feet higher than the 
conduit, and its diameter is fifty-six feet. Here the water does 
not spout continually, but only by intervals several times a day; 
and as I was informed by the people in the neighbourhood, in wet 
weather higher than at other times. 

One day that we were there, the water spouted ten different 
times, between the hours of six and eleven in the morning, each 
time to the height of eight or ten fathoms. Till then the water 
had not risen above the margin of the pipe; but now it began by 
degrees to fill the upper bason, and at last it began to run over. 
The people who were with us, gave us to understand, that the 
water would soon spout out much higl er than it had done till then, 
and this appeared very credible to us. To determine its height, 
therefore, with the utmost accuracy, Dr. Lind, who had accom- 
panied us on this voyage in the capacity of an astronomer, set up 
his quadrant. 

Soon after four o'clock, we observed that the earth began to 
tremble in three different places, a6 well as the top of a mountain, 
which was about three hundred fathoms distant from the mouth 
of the spring. We also frequently heard a subterraneous noise, 
like the discharge of a cannon; and immediately after, a column of 
Water spouted from the opening, which, at a great height, divid- 
ed itself into several rays, and according to the observations made 
with the quadrant, was ninety-two feet high. Our great surprise 
at this uncommon force of the air and fire was increased, when 
many stones, which we had flung into the aperture, were thrown 
up again with the spouting water. It is easy to conceive with 
how much pleasure we spent the day here; and indeed I am not 
surprised, that a people so much inclined to superstition as the 
Icelanders are, imagine this to be the entrace of hell. The idea 
is very natural to uninformed minds. Dr. Troil., 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 1^ 

SECTION III. 
Of the Manners of the Icelanders. 

THE Icelanders are of a good honest disposition; but they are, 
at the same time, so serious and sullen, that I hardly remember to 
have seen any of them laugh. They are by no means so strong as 
might be supposed, and much less handsome. Their chief amuse- 
ment in their leisure hours, is to recount to one another the his- 
tory of former times; so that to this day, you do not meet with an 
Icelander, who is not well acquainted with the history of his own 
country. They also play at cards. 

Their houses are built of lava, thatched with turf, and so small 
that one can hardly find room to turn in. They have no floors; 
and their windows, instead of glass, are composed of thin mem- 
branes of certain animals. They make no use of chimneys, as they 
never light a fire except to dress their victuals, when they only 
lay the turf on the ground. It may therefore be said, that we 
saw no houses except shops and warehouses; and on our journey 
to Hecla, we were cbliged to take up our lodgings in the churches. 

Their food principally consists of dried fish, sour butter, which 
they considei as a great dainty, milk mixed with water and whey, 
and a little meat. They receive so little bread from the Danish. 
Company, that there is scarcely any peasant who eats it above 
three or four months in the year. They likewise boil groats of a 
kind of moss, which has an agreeable taste The principal occu- 
pation of the men is fishing, which they follow both winter and 
summer. The women take care of the cattle, and knit stockings. 
They likewise dress and dry the fishes brought home by the men, 
?nd otherwise assist in preparing this staple commodity of the 
country. 

Money is very rare, which is the reason that all trade is car- 
ried on by fish and ells of coarse unshorn cloth. One ell is w T orth 
two fishes, and forty-eight fishes are worth a rix dollar in specie. 
They were better acquainted with gold at our departure than at our 
arrival. 

•They are well provided with cattle, which are generally with* 
out horns. They have likewise sheep and very good horses. 
Both the last are the whole winter in the fields. Of wild animals 
they have only foxes and bears, which come every year from 
Greenland with" the floating ice; these, however, are kille as 
soon as they appear, partly on account of the reward of ten dol- 
lars which the king pays for every bear, and partly to prevent 
them from destx*oying their cattle. The present governor has in- 
troduced rein-deer into the island; but out of thirteen, ten died on 
their passage, nd the other three are alive with their young. 

It is extraordinary that no wood grows successfully in Iceland; 
nay there is scarcely a single tree to be found on ihe whole island., 



14 , THE. FLOWERS OF 

though there arc certain proofs of wood having formerly grown 
there in great abundance. Corn cannot be cultivated here to any 
advantage, though I have met with cabbages, parsley, turnips, and 
peas, in five or six gardens, which are the only ones on the island. 

Dr. Troll. 

SECTION IV. 

Of the Food of the Icelanders. 

THE Icelanders in general, cat three meals a day; at seven 
in the morning, at two in the afternoon, and at nine in the even- 
ing. 

In the morning and evening they commonly eat curds mixed 
with new milk, and sometimes with juniper-berries; in some parts 
they also have pottage of rock-grass, dried and made into flour, 
which is very palatable; or curdled milk boiled till it becomes a 
red colour; or new milk, boiled a long while. 

At dinner their food consists of dried fish, with plenty of sour 
butter. They also sometimes eat fresh fish, and, when possible, a 
little bread and cheese with them. It is reported by some, that 
they do not eat any fish till it is quite rotten. This report per- 
haps proceeds from their being fond of it when a little tainted. 
However, they frequently eat fish that is quite fresh. 

On Sunday, and in harvest time, they have broth made of meat, 
which is often boiled in syra, or fermented whey, instead of wa- 
ter; and >n winter they eat hung or dried meat. 

Their common beverage is milk, either warm from the cow, or 
cold, and sometimes boiled. They likewise drink butter-milk, 
with or without water. 

They seldom make use- of fresh or salt butter, but let it grow 
sour before they eat it. In this manner it may be kept twenty 
years, and even longer; and the Icelanders look upon it as more 
wholesome and palatable than the butter used amongst us. It is 
reckoned better the older it is; and one pound of it then is as much 
valued as two pounds of fresh butter. 

This is the usual manner of life in Iceland. In all countries, 
the living of the poor diners essentially from that of the rich: and 
if an Iceland gentleman can afford to eat meat, butter, shark, and 
whale, the peasants are obliged to content themselves with fish, 
blanda, or milk mixed with water, and milk pottage or rock-grass. 
Though the Icelanders cannot be said to be in want of necessary 
aliment, yet the country has several times been visited by great 
famines. These, however, have been chiefly owing to the Green- 
land floating ice, which when it comes in great quantities, pre- 
vents the grass from growing, and puts an entire stop to their fish- 
ing. Dr. Troil. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 15 

SECTION V. 

Of the Manners of the Modem Egyptains. 

LIFE, at Grand Cairo, is rather passive than active. Nine 
months out of the year the body is oppressed with heat; the soul 
in a state of apathy, far from being continually tormented by a 
wish to know and act, sighs, after calm tranquillity. Inaction, un- 
der a temperate climate, is painful; here repose is enjoyment. 
The most frequent salutation at meeting or parting is, "Peace be 
with you." Effeminate indolence is born with the Egyptian, 
grows as he grows, and descends with him to the grave. It is the 
vice of the climate; it influences his inclinations, and governs his 
actions The sofa, therefore, is the most luxurious piece of fur- 
niture of an apartment. Their gardens have charming arbours., 
and convenient seats, but not a single walk. The Frenchman, 
born under an ever varying sky, is continually receiving new im- 
pressions, which keep his mind as continually awake. He is ac- 
tive, impatient, and agitated like the atmosphere in which he ex- 
ists; while the Egyptian, feeling the same heat, the same sensa- 
tion, two-thirds of the year, is idle, solemn and patient. 

He rises with the sun, to enjoy the morning air, purifies him- 
self, and repeats the appointed prayer. His pipe and coffee are 
brought him, and he reclines at ease on his sofa. Slaves with 
their arms crossed, remain silent at the far end of the chamber, 
with their eyes fixed on him, seeking to anticipate his smallest 
want. His children standing in his presence, unless he permits 
them to be seated, preserve every appearance of tenderness and 
respect. He gravely caresses them, gives them his blessing, and 
sends them back to the harem. He only questions, and they re- 
ply with modesty. He is the chief, the judge, the pontiff of the 
family, befor'e whom these sacred rights are all respected. 

Breakfast ended, he transacts the business of his office; and as to 
disputes they are few, among a people where the voice of the hydra, 
chicanery, is never heard; where the name of attorney is un- 
known; where the whole code of laws consists in a few clear and 
precise commands in the Koran, and where each man is his own 
pleader. 

When visitors come, the master receives them without many 
compliments, but with an endearing manner. His equals are 
seated beside him, with their legs crossed, which posture is not 
fatiguing to the body, unembarrassed by dress. His inferiors 
kneel, and sit upon their heels. People of distinction are placed 
on a raised sofa, whence they overlook the company. Thus 
iEneas, in the paMke of Dido, had the place of honour, while 
.seated on a raised bed,* he related the burning of Troy to the 

* Inde toro pater iEneas sic orsus ab alto. iEireiB, lib. ii. 2. 



16 THE FLOWERS OP 

queen. "When every person is placed, the slaves bring pipes and 
Coffee, and set the perfume hrasier in the middle of the chamber, 
the air of which is impregnated with its odours, and afterwards pre- 
sent sweetmeats and sherbet. 

When the visit is almost ended, a slave, bearing a silver plate 
on which precious essences are burning, goes round to the com- 
pany; each in turn perfumes the beard, and afterward sprinkles 
rose-water on the head and hands. This is the last ceremony, and 
the guests are then permitted to retire. We see, therefore, that 
the ancient custom of perfuming the head and beard, as sung by 
the royal prophet,* is not lost. Anacreon, the father of the fes- 
tive ode, and the poet of the Graces, incessantly repeats, "I de- 
light to sprinkle my body with precious perfumes, and crown my 
head with roses." 

About noon the table is prepared, and the viands brought in n 
large tray of tinned copper; and though no great variety, there is 
great plenty. In the centre there is a mountain of rice cooked 
with poultry, and highly seasoned with spice arte! saffron. Round 
this are harshed meats, pigeons, stuffed cucumbers, delicious me- 
lons and fruits. The roast meats are cut small, laid over with 
the fat of the animal, seasoned with salt, spitted, and done on the 
eoals. The guests seat themselves on a carpet round the table. 
A slave brings water in one hand, and a bason in the other, to 
wash. This is an indispensable ceremony, where each person puts 
his hand into the dish, and where the use of forks is unknown. 
It is repeated when the meal is ended. 

After dinner they retire to the harem, where they slumber some 
hours among their wives and children. 

Such is 1 he ordinary life of the Egyptians. Our shows, plays, 
and pleasures, are to them unknown A monotony, which to an 
European would be death, is delight to an Egyptian. Their days 
are passed in repeating the same thing, in following the same cus- 
toms, without a wish or thought beyond. Having neither strong 
passions, nor ardent hopes, tneir minds know not lassitude. This 
is a torment reserved for those who, unable to moderate the vio- 
lence of their desires, or satisfy their unbounded wants, are weary 
every where, and exist only where they are not. Savary. 



SECTION VI. 

Of the River Nile. 

THE country of Egypt is in fact so low, that were it not for a 
few little hillocks, formed by the ruins of anciJIt Aiexmdria, and 
the prodigious height of Pompey's pillar^ the land would not be 

* Psalm exxxiii. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLEBS. 17 

distinguishable. The whole coast is horizon; and it is with diffi- 
culty one perceives, from three leagues off at sea, some palm 
trees, which seem to grow out of the water. It is not to. the flat- 
ness of the country alone, however, that Egypt is indebted for its 
periodical inundation. 

The trade winds, from West and North, by pushing the clouds 
of Europe on Abyssinia, blow in the direction of the Nile, in 
which mechanism of nature it must be remarked, that the wind, 
by driving back the waters of the river, becomes the principal 
cause of its overflowing. Having reached its heighest degree to- 
wards the middle of September, the winds then becoming trade 
winds from the southward, concur with the natural descent, of the 
Nile, to accelerate the draining of the water, at the same time that 
they collect the superfluous clouds, now of no further use, over 
Abyssinia and Ethiopia, and carry them, for the same beneficial 
purpose of a periodical inundation, towards the sources of the 
Euphrates, to enrich Mesopotamia, 'vfter abundantly watering 
Egypt. At this period therefore, one sees a column of clouds 
pass the Red Sea, towards the Isthmus of Suez, spread over Syria, 
and collect on mount Ararat; whilst the same trade wind blowing 
in the gulph of Persia, compressing the waters of the Euphrates, 
produces in Mesopotamia, by the same means, the same advantages 
enjoyed by Egypt._ 

This meteorological observation, the particulars of which I have 
carefully attended to, may be verified every year, in a climate 
where the serenity of the heavens cannot admit of error. 

All the descriptions of Egypt hitherto agree, in considering the 
mud, with which the waters of the Nile are loaded during its in- 
crease, and which are left on the land they overflow, as a fattener 
which fertilises the country. In analising it, however, no vegeta- 
tive quality is discoverable before its union with the sand, which, 
together with the clay, composes the soil of Egypt, in about the 
same proportion as in the earrhen manufactures; nor is this mud 
any other than the produce of the crumbling of the two banks of 
the Nile,. when it carries off the clayey part. Its specific light- 
ness, joined to the motions of the water, keeps its particles sus- 
pended, whilst the sand settles, and forms new islands for the in- 
habitants, after the draining of the waters. The cultivator takes 
immediate possession of them, his industry supplying the barren- 
ness of the sand, with which he mixes pidgeon's dung, then sows 
his water-melons, and enjoys a plentiful crop, before the succeed- 
ing inundation destroys these islands to produce others. 

The whirlpools which occasiofi these variations, necessarily 
arise from the double effort of the descent of the water, and the 
wind which counteracts them; but the Nile notwithstanding this 
agitation; is so easy to be kept within its bounds, that many fields, 
situated below the service of the water ia its increase, are preserY- 
3 



IS tllF FLOWERS OF 

ed from suffering from the inundation, by means only of a dam of 
eight or ten inches thick in moist ground. 

This method, which costs the husbandman but little labor, is 
made use of to preserve the Delta, when it is threatened by an in- 
undation. This island, which produces annually three crops, is 
constantly watered by machines built on the Nile, and on the canals 
which intersect it, but is very seldom in danger of being drowned; 
and this rich part of Egypt which is close to the sea, would feel 
the effects of the swelling still less, did not the trade-winds accu- 
mulate the waters of the Mediterranean towards the south. 

It is important to observe, that the Delta, higher than the rest 
of Egypt, is bordered towards the sea, by a forest of palm-trees, 
called the forest of Beleros, the ground of which is far above the 
highest elevation of the waters, a topographical remark, of itself 
sufficient to overthrow the formation of the Delta by a sediment. 
Land, which is higher than the greatest inundations, can never 
owe its origin to them. It can only hive occasioned the division 
of the Nile into two branches. But neither this circumstance, nor 
the existence of the island, which separates them, required so 
much labor; and Mr. Maillet might, in this respect, have spared 
himself the repetition of the system of Ephorus, which was not 
held in estimation, even by his cotemporaries. 

The vestiges of the canals, which watered the eastern and west- 
ern provinces of the Delta, prove that it was formerly the seat of 
the richest cultivation in Egypt. It may also be presumed, from 
the extent of the ruins of Alexandria, the structure of the canal, 
and the natural equality of the lands which surround lake Mareotis. 
and which extend from the westward, as far as the kingdom of Barca, 
that this country, now in possession of the Arabs, and almost to- 
tally uncultivated, was formerly as rich in productions of every 
kind, as was necessary for the subsistence of Alexandria. 

One sees from the situation of the canal of Alexandria, that after 
watering that town, and assisting its commerce, it must have fer- 
tilised the upper part of those lands situated on the left bank of the 
Nile, opposite to the Delta; whilst a dyke, thrown up at Bequers, 
keeping off the sea, added a large territory to Egypt, the cultiva- 
tion of which reached to the suburbs of that immense city, 
reduced at present to a small town built on the new isthmus, 
formed between the two ports, and which joins the isle of Pharos 
to the continent. This capital of the commerce of the universe, 
long since condemned to serve only as a staple for the consump- 
tion of Egypt, seems to have banished itself from its own walls; 
but it is impossible to throw one's eyes on the extent and magni- 
ficence of its ruins, without feeling, that the greatest powers have 
only a value proportionate to the age which employs them, and 
the genius of the men intrusted with their management. 

Egypt, so situated as to combine the commerce of Europe, 
Africa, and the East Indies, was in want of a port, which should 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 19 

at once be spacious and easy to approach. The mouth of the Nile 
offered none of these requisites. The only harbor on that coast 
was in the midst of a desert, at twelve leagues from the river, and 
could onty be discovered by an elevated genius. A town was to 
be built, and it was himself who furnished the plan of it. 

To what a pitch of splendor did he not raise Alexandria, in its 
origin? He joined it to the Nile by a canal at once navigable and 
useful for cultivation* It became the city of all nations, the me- 
tropolis of commerce He is honoured even by its ashes, piled 
up by the barbarity of ages, and which wait only for some bene- 
ficient hand to expand them, and cement the reconstruction of the 
most stupendous edifice hitherto conceived by the human mind. 

The nature of the rock, which lines the coast of Egypt, proves 
that the island on which the Pharos is built, can only have been 
formed by the ashes of Alexandria, and that the shallow, which 
separates the two basons, arose from the ruins brought there by the 
sea. This new shore further testifies the truth of this observation; 
and the waves daily exposed to view a number of engraved stones, 
which must have belonged to the ruins of the ancient city. 

Its ruins testify, at every step, its ancient splendor; and the 
form of its enclosure, which represents a Macedonian cloak, seems 
to have awed the very barbarians, in their different sackings of this 
town, by recalling the memory of its founder. The same walls, 
which protected its industry and riches, defend, at this day, its 
ruins, and exhibit a master-piece of masonry. 

Some historians pretend, that the Saracens built the present walls, 
instead of those they had destroyed. But, if the hand of these plun- 
derers is to be traced at all, it is only in the repairs, which are as 
destitute of neatness as of regularity. Baron de Tott. 



SECTION VII. 

Of the Manners and General Character of the French. 

ONE can scarcely believe the influence which men of letters 
have in the gay and dissipated city of Paris. Their opinions not 
only determine the merit of works of taste and science, but they 
have considerable weight on the manners and sentiments of people 
of rank, of the public in general, and consequently, are not with- 
out effect on the measures of government. 

The same thing takes place, in some degree, in most countries 
of Europe; but, if I am not mistaken, more at Paris than any 
where else; because men of letters are here at once united to each 
other by the various academies, and diffused among private socie- 
ties, by the manners and general taste of the nation. 

As the sentiments and conversation of men of letters influence, 
to a certain degree^ the opinions and conduct of the fashionable 



20 THE FLOWERS OF 

world, the manners of these last have a more obvious effect upon 
the behaviour, and the conversation of the former, which in gene- 
ral is polite and easy; equally purified from the awkward timidity 
contracted in retirement, and the disgusting arrogance inspired by 
university honours, or church dignities. At Paris, the pedants of 
Moliere are to be seen on the stage only. 

In this country, at present, there are many men distinguished 
bv their learning, who at the same time are cheerful and easy in 
mixed company, unpresuming in argument, and in every respect 
as well bred, as those who have no other pretension. 

Politeness and good manners, indeed, may be traced, though in 
different proportions, through every rank, from the greatest of the 
nobility to the lowest mechanic. This forms a more remarkable 
and distinguishing feature in the French national character, than the 
vivacity, impetuosity, and fickleness, for which the ancient as well 
as the modern inhabitants of this country have been noted. It is cer- 
tainly a very singular phenomenon, that politeness, which in every 
other country, is confined to people of a certain rank in li r e, should 
here pervade every situation and profession. The man in power is 
courteous to his dependant, the prosperous to the unfortunate: the 
very beggar, who solicits charity, does it "en homme commeil faut;" 
and if his request be not granted, he is sure, at least, that it will 
be refused with an appearance of humanity, and not with harsh- 
ness or insult. 

A stranger, quite new and unversed in their language, whose 
accent is uncouth and ridiculous in the ears of the French, and 
who can scarcely open his mouth, without making a blunder in 
grammar or idiom, is heard with the most serious attention, and 
never laughed at, even when he utters the oddest solecism, or 
equivocal expression. 

I am afraid, said T, yesterday, to a French gentleman, the 
phrase which I used just now is not French. "Monsieur,"' replied 
he, "cette expression effectivement n'est pas Francoise, mais 
elle merite bien de l'etree." 

The most daring deviation from fashion, in the important arti- 
cle of dress, cannot make them forget the laws of good breeding. 
When a person appears at the public walks, in clothes made against 
every law of the mode, upon which the French are supposed to 
lay such stress, they do not stare or. sneer at him; they allow him 
first to pass, as it were unobserved, and do not till then turn 
round to indulge the curiosity, which his uncommon figure may 
have excited. 

I have remarked this instance of delicacy often in the streets, 
in the lowest of the vulgar, or rather of the common people; for 
there are really very few of the natives of Paris, who can be called 
Vulgar. 

There are exceptions to these, as to all general remarks on the 
manners and character of any nation. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 21 

Loyalty, or an uncommon fondness for, and attachment to the 
persons of their princes, is another striking part of the French na- 
tional character. 

An Englishman, though he views the virtues of his king with a 
jealous eye during his reign, yet he will do them all justice in the 
reign of his successor. 

A German, while he is silent with respect to the foibles of his 
prince, admires all his talents much more than he would the same 
qualities in any other person. 

A Turk, or Persian, contemplates his emperor with fear and re- 
verence, as a superior being, to whose pleasure it is his duty to sub- 
mit, as to the laws of nature, and the will of providence. 

But a Frenchman, while he knows that his king is of the same 
nature, and liable. to all the weaknesses of other men; while he 
enumerates his follies, and laughs as he laments them, is neverthe- 
less attached to him by a sentiment of equal respect and tender- 
ness; a kind of affectionate prejudice, independent of his real 
character. 

Roi is a word, which conveys to the minds of Frenchmen, the 
ideas of benevolence, gratitude, and love; as well as those of power,- 
grandeur, and happiness. 

They flock to Versailles every Sunday, behold him with unsa- 
tiated curiosity, and gaze on him with as much satisfaction the 
twentieth time as the first. 

They consider him as their friend, though he does not know 
their persons; and as their benefactor, while they are oppressed 
with taxes. 

They magnify into importance his most indifferent actions; 
they palliate and excuse all his weaknesses; and they impute his 
errors, or crimes, to his ministers or other evil counsellors, who 
(as they fondly assert,) have for some base purpose, imposed upon 
his judgment, and perverted the undeviating rectitude of his in- 
tentions. They repeat with fond applause, every saying of his, 
which seems to indicate the smallest approach of wit, or even 
bears the -mark of ordinary sagacity. 

The most inconsiderable circumstance, which relates to the 
monarch, is of importance. Whether he eat much or little at din- 
ner; the coat he wears, the horse on which he rides, all afford mat- 
ter of conversation in the various societies of Paris, and are the 
most agreable subjects of epistolary correspondence with their 
friends in the provinces. 

If he happens to be a little indisposed, all Paris, all France is 
alarmed, as if a real calamity was threatened; and to seem inter- 
ested, or to converse upon any other subject, till this has been dis- 
cussed, would be considered as a proof of unpardonable indifference. 

At mass, it is the king, not the priest, who is the object of atten- 
tion. The host is elevated, but the people's eyes remain fixed upon 
the face of their beloved monarch. 



£2 THE FLOWERS OF 

Even the most applauded pieces of the theatre, which in Paris 
create more emotion than the ceremonies of religion, can with dif- 
ficulty divide their attention. A smile from the king mflkes them 
forget the sorrows of Andromache, and the wrongs of the Cid. 

All this regard seems real, and not affected from any motive of 
interest, at. least it must he so; with respect to the hulk of the peo- 
ple, who can have no hopes of ever being known to their princes, 
far less of ever receiving any personal favour from them. 

The philosophical idea, that kings have been appointed for pub- 
lic conveniency; that they are accountable to their subjects for 
mal-administration, or for continued acts of injustice and oppres- 
sion, is a doctrine veiy opposite to the general prejudices of this 
nation. If any of their kings were to behave in such an impru- 
dent and outrageous manner, as to occasion a revolt, and if the in- 
surgents actually got the better, I question if they would think of 
new-modelling the government, and limiting the power of the 
crown, as was done in Britain at the revolution, so as to prevent 
the like abuses for the future. They never would think of going 
further, I imagine, than placing another prince of the Bourbon fa- 
mily on the throne, with the same power that his predecessor had, 
and then quietly lay down their arms, satisfied with his royal word 
or declaration, to govern with more equity. 

The French seem so delighted and dazzled with the lustre of 
monarchy, that they cannot bear the thoughts of any qualifying 
mixture, which might abate its violence, and render its ardour more 
benign. They consider the power of the king, from which their 
servitude proceeds, as if it were their own power. One would 
hardly believe it; but I am sure of the fact; they are proud of it; 
they are proud that there is no check or limitation to his authority. 

They tell you with exultation, that the king has an army of near 
two hundred thousand men in the time of peace. A Frenchman is 
as vain of the palaces, fine gardens, number of horses, and all the 
paraphernalia belonging to the court of the monarch, as an English- 
man can be of his own house, gardens, and equipage. 

When they are told of the diffusion of wealth in England, the 
immense fortunes made by many individuals, the affluence of those 
of middle rank, the security and easy situation of the com- 
mon people; instead of being mortified by the comparison, which 
might naturally occur to their imagination, they comfort themselves 
with the reflection that the court of France is more brilliant than 
the court of Great Britain, and that the duke of Orleans and the 
prince of Conde have greater revenues than any of the English no- 
bility. 

When they hear of the freedom of debate in parliament, of the 
liberties taken in writing or speaking of the conduct of the king, or 
measures of government, and the forms to be observed, before those 
who venture on the most daring abuse of either can be brought to 
punishment, they seem filled with indignation; and say with an air 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 23 

of triumph, that their minister would give himself no trouble about 
forms or proofs; that suspicion was sufficient for him, and without 
more ado he would shut up such impertinent people in the Bastile 
for years; and then raising their voices, as if what they said were a 
proof of the courage or magnanimity of the minister — "Ou peut- 
etre il feroit coudamner ce droles la aux galeres pour la vie." 

Dr. Moore- 
section VIII. 

Of the Complimental Phraser used by the French. 

THE French have often been accused of insincerity, and of be- 
ing warm in professions, but devoid of real friendship. 

Out countrymen in particular are led into this opinion, from the 
manners in general being more obsequious here than in England. 
What Frenchmen consider as common good manners, many Eng- 
lighmen would call flattery, perhaps fawning. 

Their language abounds in complimental phrases, which they dis- 
tribute with wonderful profusion and volubility; but they, intend 
no more by them, than an Englishman means when he subscribes 
himself your most obedient humble servant, at the conclusion of a 
letter. 

A Frenchman not only means nothing beyond common civility,, 
by the- plentiful show T er of compliments which he pours on ever}' 
stranger; but also, he takes it for granted, that the stranger knows 
that nothing more is meant. These expressions are fully under- 
stood by his countrymen; he imagines all the world are as well in- 
formed; and he has not the smallest intention to deceive. But if 
any man takes these expressions in a literal sense, and believes 
that people are in reality inspired with friendship, or have fallen 
in love with him at first sight, he will be very much disappointed; 
especially if he expects strong proofs of either. 

Yet he has no right to accuse the French of insincerity, or breach 
of friendship. Friendship is entirely out of the question. They 
never intended to convey any other idea, than that they were wil- 
ling to receive him on the footing of an acquaintance; and it was 
the business of his language-master to have informed, him of the 
real import of their expressions. 

If the same words, indeed, were literally translated into Eng- 
lish, and used by one Englishman to another, the person to whom 
they were addressed, would have good reason to imagine, that the 
other had a particular regard for him, or meant to deceive him; 
because the established modes of civility and politeness in England 
do not require such language. 

The not making a proper allowance for different modes and- 
usages, which accidents have established, is one great cause of the 
unfavourable and harsh sentiments, which the people of the differ- 



24 THE rLOWERS OF 

ent countries of the world too often harbour against each 
other. 

It may be said perhaps, that this superfluity of compliments, 
which the French make use of, is a proof oftheipatter in question, 
that the French have less sincerity than their neighbours. J3\ the 
same rule we must conclude, that the common people of every na- 
tion, vvho use few complimental phrases in their discourse, have a 
greater regard to truth, and stronger sentiments of friendship, 
than those in the middle and higher ranks. But this is what I 
imagine it would be difficult to prove. 

These complimental phrases, which have crept into all modern 
languages, may, perhaps, be superfluous; or, if you please, absurd; 
But they are so fully established, that people of the greatest inte- 
grity make use of them, both in England and in France, with this 
difference, that a smaller proportion will do in the language of the 
one country than in that of the other. They are, howevei, indi- 
cations of friendship in either. 

Friendship is a plant of slow growth in every climate. Happy 
the man who can rear a few, even when he has the most settled 
residence. Travellers, passing through foreign countries, seldom 
take time to cultivate them. If they be presented with some 
flo'.-v^s although of a flimsy texture and quicker growth, they ought 
to accept of them with thankfulness, and not quarrel with the na- 
tives for choosing to retain the other more valuable plant for their 
own use. 

Of all travellers, the young English nobility and gentry have the 
least right to find fault with their entertainment while on their 
tours abroad; for such of them as show a desire of forming a con- 
nection with the inhabitants, by even a moderate degree of -atten- 
tion, are received upon easier terms than the travellers from any 
other country; but very considerable numbers of our countrymen 
have not the smallest desire of that nature. They seem raiherto 
avoid their society, and accept with reluctance e\-eiy offer of hos- 
pitality. This happens, partly from a prejudice against foreign- 
ers of every kind, partly from timidity or natural reserve, and in 
a great measure from indolence, and an absolute detestation of cere- 
mony and restraint. Besides, they hate to be obliged to speak a 
language, of which they seldom acquire a perfect command. 

They lrequently, therefore, form societies or clubs of their own, 
where all ceremony is dismissed, and the greatest ease and latitude 
allowed in their behaviour, dress, and conversation. There they 
Confirm each other in all their prejudices, and. with united voices 
condemn and ridicule the customs and manners of every coun try- 
out their own. 

By tins conduct, the true purpose of travelling is lost or per- 
verted; and many English travellers have remained four or five 
years abroad and have seldom, during all this space, been in any 
company but that of their own countrymen. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 25 

To go to France and Italy, and there converse with none but 
English people, and merely that you may have it to say, that you 
have been in those countries, is certainly absurd. Nothing can. 
be more so, except to adopt with enthusiasm, the fashions, fop- 
peries, taste and manners of those countries, and transplant them 
to England, where they never will thrive, and where they always 
appear awkward and unnatural. For, after all his efforts of imi- 
tation, a travelled Englishman is as different from a Frenchman 
or an Italian, as an English mastiff is from a monkey or a fox. 
And if ever that sedate and plain-meaning dog, should pretend to 
the gay friskiness of the one, or to the subtilty of the other, we 
should certainly value him much less than we do. 

But I do not imagine that this extreme is by any means so com- 
mon as the former; It is much more natural to the English cha- 
racter to despise foreigners than to imitate them. A few tawdry 
examples to the contrary, who return every winter from the con- 
tinent, are hardly worth mentioning as exceptions. 

Dr. Moore. 

SECTION IX. 

iff 

Of Geneva, 

THE situation of Geneva is, in many respects, as happy as the 
heart of man could desire, or his imagination conceive. The 
Rhone, rushing out of the noblest lake in Eui-ope, flows through 
the middle of the city, which is encircled by fertile fields, culti- 
vated by the industry, and adorned by the riches and taste of the 
inhabitants. 

The long ridge of mountains, called Mount Jura, on the one 
side, with the Alps, the Glaciers of Savoy, and the snowy head of 
Mont Blanc, on the other, serve as boundaries to the most charm- 
ingly variegated landscape that ever delighted the eye. 

With these advantages in point of situation, the citizens of Geneva 
enjoy freedom untainted by licenciousness, and security unbought 
by the horrors of war. 

The great number of men of letters, who either are natives of 
the place, or have chosen it for their residence, the decent man- 
ners, the easy circumstances, and humane dispositions of the Ge- 
nevois in general, render this city and its environs a very desirable 
retreat for people of a philosophic turn of mind, who are contented 
with moderate and calm enjoyments, have no local attachments or 
domestic reasons for prefering another country, and who wish, in 
a certain degree, to retire from the bustle of the world, to a nar- 
rower and calmer scene, and there, for the rest of their days, 

Ducere solicits jucunda oblivia vitae. 



26 THE FLOWERS OF 

As education here is equally cheap and liberal, the citizens of 
Geneva, of both sexes, are remarkably well instructed. I do not 
imagine that any country in the world can produce an equal num- 
ber of persons, (taken without election from all degrees and pro- 
fessions,) with minds so much cultivated as the inhabitants of Ge- 
neva possess. 

It is not uncommon to find mechanics, in the intervals of their 
labour, amusing themselves with the works of Locke, Montesquieu, 
Newton, and other productions of the same kind. 

When I speak of the cheapness of a liberal education, I mean 
for the natives and citizens only; for strangers now find every 
thing dear at Geneva. Wherever Englishmen resort, this is the 
case. If they do not find things dear, they soon make them so. 

The democratical nature of their government inspires every ci- 
tizen with an idea of his own importance. He perceives, that no 
man in the republic can insult or even neglect him with impunity. 

It is an excellent circumstance in any government, when the 
most powerful man in the state has something to fear from the most 
feeble. This is the case here. The meanest citizen of Geneva is 
possessed of certain rights, which render him an object deserving 
the attention of the greatest. Besides, a consciousness of this 
makes him respect himself; a sentiment, which, within proper 
bounds, has a tendency to render a man respectable to others. 

The general character ot human nature, forbids us to expect that 
men will always act from motives of public spirit, without an eye 
to private interest. The best form of government, therefore, is 
that in which the interest of individuals is most intimately blended 
with the public good. This may be more perfectly accomplished 
in a small republic than in a great monarchy. In the first, men of 
genius and virtue are discovered and called to offices of trust, by 
the impartial admiration of their fellow-citizens; in the other, the 
highest places are disposed of by the caprice of the prince, or of 
those courtiers, male or female, who are nearest his person, watch 
the variation of his humour, and know how to seize the smiling mo- 
ments, and turn them to their own advantage, or that of their de- 
pendants. Montesquieu says, that a sense of honour, produces 
the same effects in a monarchy, that public spirit or patriotism 
does in a republic. It must be remembered however, that the first, 
according to the modern acceptation of the word, is generally 
confined to the nobility and gentry; whereas, public spirit is a more 
universal principle, and spreads through all the members of the 
commonwealth. 

As far a9 I can judge, a spirit of independency and freedom, tem- 
pered by sentiments of decency, and the love of order, influence, 
in a most remarkable manner, the minds of the subjects of this 
happy republic. 

Before I knew them, I had formed an opinion, that the people 
of tips- place were fanalical, gloomy-minded, and unsociable, as the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 27 

Puritans in England, and the Presbyterians in Scotland were, dur- 
ing the civil wars, and the reigns of Charles II. and his brother. In 
this, however, I find I had conceived a very erroneous notion. 

There is not, I may venture to assert, a city in Europe, where 
the minds of the people are less under the influence of superstition 
or fanatical enthusiasm, than at Geneva. Servetus, were he now 
alive, would not run the smallest risk of persecution The pre- 
sent clergy have, I am persuaded, as little the inclination as the 
power of molesting any person for speculative opinions. Should 
the pope himself choose this city for a retreat, it would be his own 
fault if he did not live in as much security as at the Vatican. 

The clergy of Geneva, in general, are men of sense, learning, 
and moderation, impressing upon the minds of their hearers the 
tenets of Christianity, with all the graces of pulpit eloquence, and 
illustrating the efficacy of the doctrine by their conduct in life. 

The people of every station in this place, attend sermons and the 
public worship with remarkable punctuality. The Sunday is hon- 
oured with the most respectful decorum during the hours of divine 
service; but as soon as that is over, all the usual amusements com- 
mence. 

The public walks are crowded by all degrees of people, in their 
best dresses. The different societies, and what they call circles^ 
assembled in the houses and gardens of individuals. They play at 
cards and at bowls, and have parties upon the lake with music. 

There is one custom universal here, and, as far as I know, pe- 
culiar to this place. The parents form societies for their children, 
at a very early period of their lives. These societies consist of 
ten, a dozen, or more children of the same sex, and nearly of the 
same age and situation in life. They assemble once a week in the 
houses of the different parents, who entertain the company by 
turns with tea, coffee, biscuits, and fruit, and then leave the young 
assembly to the freedom of their own conversation. 

This connection is strictly kept up through life, whatever alter- 
ations may take place in the situations or circumstances of the in- 
dividuals. And although they should afterwards form new or pre- 
ferable intimacies, they never entirely abandon this society; but 
to the latest period of their lives, continue to pass a few evenings 
every year with the companions of their youth, and their earliest 
friends. 

The richer class of the citizens have country houses adjacent to 
the town, where they pass one half of the yeftr. These houses 
are all very neat, and some of them are splendid. One piece of 
magnificence they possess in greater perfection than the most su- 
perb villa of the greatest lord in any other part of the world can 
boast; I mean the prospect which almost all of them command. 
The gardens and vinyards of the republic, the Pais de Vaud, Ge- 
neva with its lake, innumerable country seats ; castles, and little 



28 THE FLOWERS OF 

towns around the lake; the vallies of Savoy, and the loftiest moun- 
tains of the Alps, are all within one sweep of the eye. 

Those whose fortunes or employments do not permit them to 
-pass the summer in the country, make frequent parties of pleasure 
upon the lake, and dine and spend the evening at some of the vil- 
lages in the environs, where they amuse themselves with music 
and dancing. 

Sometimes they form themselves into circles, consisting of forty 
or fifty persons, and purchase or hire a house and garden near the 
town, where they assemble every afternoon during the summer, 
drink coffee, lemonade, and other refreshing liquors, and amuse 
themselves with cards, conversation, and playing at bowls, a game 
very different from that which goes by the same name in England; 
for here, instead of a smooth level green, they often choose the 
roughest and most unequal piece of ground. The player, instead 
of rolling the bowl, throws it in such a manner, that it rests in the 
place where it first touches the ground; and if that be a fortunate 
situation, they next player pitches his bowl directly on his adver- 
sary^, so as to make that spring away, whilst his own fixes itself 
in the spot from which the other has been dislodged. Some of 
the citizens are astonishingly dexterous at this game, which is 
more complicated and interesting than the English manner of 
playing. 

They generally continue these circles till the dusk of the evening, 
and the sound of the drum from the ramparts, call them to the town; 
and at that time, the gates are shut, after which no person can enter or 
go out; the officer of the guard not having the power to open them, 
without an order from the Syndics, which is not to be obtained but 
on some great emergency. Dk. Moose. 



SECTION X. 

Of the Glaciers of Savoy. 

I RETURNED to Geneva, a few days since, from a journey 
to the Glaciers of Savoy, the Pays de Valais, and other places 
among the Alps. 

The wonderful accounts I had heard of the Glaciers, had excited 
my curiosity a good deal, while the air of superiority assumed 
by some who ha^ made this boasted tour, piqued my pride still 
more. 

One could hardly mention any thing curious or singular without 
heing told by some of those travellers, with an air of cool con- 
tempt, — "Dear sir — that is pretty well; but take my word for it, 
it is nothing to the Glaciers of Savoy." 

I determined atlast not to take their word for it, and I found 
some gentlemen of the same way of thinking. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 29 

We left Geneva early in the morning of the 3d of August, and 
hreakfasted at Bonneville, a small town id the duchy of Savoy, 
situated at the foot of Mole, and on the hanks of the river Arve. 

We passed the night at Sallenche, and the remaining part of our 
journey not admitting of chaises, they were sent back to Geneva, 
with orders to the drivers to go round by the other side of the lake, 
and meet us at the village of Martigny, in the Pays tie ValSais. 

We agreed with a muleteer at Sallenche, who provided mules 
to carry us over the mountains to Martigny. It is a good day's 
journey from Sallenche to Chamouni, not on account of the dis- 
tance, but from the difficulty and perplexity of the road, and the 
steep ascents and descents with which one is teazed alternately the 
whole way. 

Some of the mountains are covered with pine, oak, beech, and 
walnut trees. These are interpersed with apple, plum, cherry, and 
other fruit-trees, so that we rode a great part of the morning in the 
sh <de. 

Besides the refreshing coolness which this occasioned, it Was 
most agreeable to me on another account. The road was in some 
places so exceedingly steep, that I never doubted but some of us 
were to fall; I therefore reflected with satisfaction, that those trees 
would probably arrest our course, and hinder us from rolling a great 
way. 

But many pathless, craggy mountains remained to he traversed, 
after we had lost the protection of the trees. We then had no- 
thing but the sagacity of our mules to trust to. For my own part, 
I was very soon convinced, that it was much safer, on all dubious 
occasions, to depend on thiers, than on my own. For as often as I 
was presented with a choice of difficulties, and the mule and I 
were of different opinions, if, becoming more obstinate than he, I 
insisted on his taking my track, I never failed to repent it, and of- 
ten was obliged to return to the place where the controversy had 
begun, and follow the path to which he had pointed at first. 

It is entertaining to observe the prudence of these animals, in 
making their way down such dangerous rocks. They sometimes 
put their heads over the edge of the precipice, and examine with 
anxious circumspection, every possible way by which they can 
descend, and at length are sure to fix on that, which upon the 
whole, is best. Having observed this in several instances, 1 laid 
the bridle on the neck' of my mule, and allowed him to take his 
own way, without presuming to controul him in the smallest de- 
gree. 

This is doubtless the best method, and what I recommend to all 
my friends in their journey through life, when they have mules 
for their companions. 

We began pretty early next morning to ascend Montanvert, 
from the top of which there is easy access to the Glaciers of that 
name, and to the Valley of Ice. 



30 THE FLOWERS OF 

Having ascended Montanvert from Chamouni, on descending a 
little on the other side, we found ourselves on a plain, whose ap- 
pearance has been aptly compared to that which a stormy sea 
would have, if it were suddenly arrested, and fixed by a strong 
frost. This is called the Valley of Ice. It stretches several 
leagues behind Montanvert, and is reckoned 2300 feet higher than 
the valley of Chamouni. 

From the highest part of Montanvert, we had all the following 
objects under our eye, some of which seemed to obstruct the view 
of others equally interesting: — the Valley of Ice, the Needles, 
Mont Blanc, with the snowy mountains below, finely contrasted 
with Breven, and the green hills on the opposite side of Chamouni, 
and the sun in full splendor, showing all of them to the greatest 
advantage. The whole forms a scene equally sublime and beau- 
tiful, far from my power of description, and worthy of the elo- 
quence of that very ingenuous gentleman, who has so finely illus- 
trated these subjects in a particular treatise, and given so many ex- 
amples of both in his parliamentary speeches. 

The Valley of Ice is several leagues in length, and not above a 
quarter of a league in breadth. It divides into branches, which 
run behind the chain of mountains formerly taken notice of. It 
appears like a frozen amphitheatre, and is bounded by mountains, 
in whose clefts, columns^of crystal, as we were informed, are to be 
found. 

The hoary majesty of Mont Blanc 1 was in danger of 

vising into poetry, when recollecting the story of Icarus, I thought 
it best not to trust to my own waxen wings. I beg leave rather 
to borrow the following lines, which will please better than any 
flight of mine, and prevent me from a fall. 

"So Zembla's rocks (the beautious work of frost,) 
"Rise white in air, and glitter o'er the coast: 
"Pale suns, unfelt, at distance roll away, 
"And on th' impassive ice, the light'nings play; 
"Eternal snows the growing 1 mass supply, 
"Fill the bright mountains, prop th' incumbent sky, 
"As Atlas fix'd, each hoary pile appears, 
"The gathered winter of a thousand years." 

There are five or six different Glaciers, which all terminate upon 
one side of the Valley of Chamouni, within the space of about five 
leagues. 

These are prodigious collections of snow and ice, formed in the 
intervals of hollows between the mountains that bound the side of 
the valley, near which Mont Blanc stands. 

The snow in those hollows being screened from the influence of 
the sun, the heat of summer can dissolve only a certain portion of 
it. These magazines of ice and snow are not formed by what falls 
directly from the heavens into the intervals. They are supplied 
by the snow which falls during winter on the loftiest parts of Mont 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 3.1 

Blane; large beds or strata of which slide down imperceptibly by 
their own gravity, and finding no resistance at these intervals, 
they form long irregular roots around all the adjacent mountains. 

Five of these, enter, by five different embouchures, into the val- 
ley of Chamouni, and are called Glaciers, on one of which we 
were. Al present their surface is from a thousand to two thous- 
and feet lvgh above the valley. 

Their breadth depends on the wideness of the interval between 
the mountains in which they are formed. Viewed from the valley, 
they have in my opinion, a much finer effect than from their sum- 
mit. 

The rays of the sun striking with various force on the different 
parts, according as they are more or less exposed, occasion an un- 
equal dissolution of the ice; and, with the help of a little imagina- 
tion, give the appearance of columns, arches, and turrets, which 
are in some places transparent. 

A fabric of ice in this taste, two thousand feet high, and three 
times as broad, with the sun shining full upon it, we must acknow- 
ledge to be a very singular piece of architecture. 

Our company ascended only the Glacier of Montanvert, which 
is not the highest, and were contented with a view of the others 
from the valley; but more curious travellers will surely think it 
worth their labour to examine each of them more particularly. 

Some people are so fond of Glaciers, that not satisfied with their 
present size, they insist positively, that they must grow larger 
every year, and they argue the matter thus: 

The present existence of the Glaciers is a sufficient proof that 
there has, at some period or other, been a greater quantity of snow 
formed during the wintet|Mhan the heat of the summer has been 
able to dissolve. But this disproportion must necessarily increase 
every year, and, by consequence, the Glaciers must augment; be- 
cause, any given quantity of snow and ice remaining through the 
course of one summer, must increase the cold of the atmosphere 
around it in some degree; which being reinforced by the snow of 
the succeeding winter, will resist the dissolving power of the sun 
more the second summer than the first, and still more the third than 
the second, and so on. 

The conclusion of this reasoning is, that the Glaciers must grow 
larger by an increasing ratio ever year, till the end of time. For 
this reason,^the authors of this theory regret, that they themselves 
have been sent into the world so soon; because if their birth had 
been delayed for nine or ten thousand years, they should have 
seen the Glaciers in much greater glory, Mont Blanc being but a 
Lilliputian at present, in comparison of what it will be then. 

However rational this may appear, objections have nevertheless 
been suggested, which I am sorry for; because when a theory is. 
tolerably consistent, well fabricated, and goodly to behold, nothing 
c>n he- mote vexatious, than to see a plodding officious fellow over- 



32 THE FLOWERS OK 

throw the whole structure at once, by the dash of his pen, as Har- 
lequin does a house with a touch of his sword, in a pantomime en- 
tertainment. 

Such cavillers say, that as the Glaciers augment in size, there 
must be a greater extent of surface for the sun-beams to act upon, 
and, by consequence, the dissolution will be greater, which must 
effectually prevent the continual increase contended for. 

But the other party extricate themselves from this difficulty, by 
roundly asserting, that the additional cold, occasioned by the snow 
and ice already deposited, has a much greater influence in retard- 
ing their dissolution, than the increased surface can have in has- 
tening it; and, in confirmation of their system, they tell you, that 
the oldest inhabitants of Chamouni remember the Glaciers when 
they were much smaller than at present; and also remember ihe 
time when they could walk from the Valley of Ice, to places be- 
hind the mountains, by passages which are now quite choaked up 
with hills of snow, not above fifty years old. 

Whether the inhabitants of Chamouni assert this from a lauda- 
ble partiality to the Glaciers, which they may now consider (on ac- 
count of their drawing strangers to visit the valley,) as their best 
neighbours; or from politeness to the supporters of the above men- 
tioned opinion; or from real observation, I shall not presume to 
say. But 1 myself, have heard several of the old people of Cha- 
mouni assert the fact. 

The cavillers, being thus obliged to relinquish their former ob- 
jection, attempt in the next place, to show, that the above theory 
leads to an absurdity; because, say they, if their Glaciers go on in- 
creasing the bulk ad infinitum, the globe itself, would become, 
in process of time, a mere appendage to Mont^Blanc. 

The advocates for the continual augirrentation of the Glaciers re- 
ply, that as this inconveniency has not already happened, there 
needs no other refutation of the impious doctrine of certain phi- 
losophers, who assert that the world has existed from eternity; and 
as to the globe's becoming an appendage to the mountain, they as- 
sure us, that the world will be at an end long before that event can 
happen; so that those of the most timid natures, and most delicate 
constitutions, may dismiss their fears on that subject. 

For my own part, though I wish well to the Glaciers, and all 
the inhabitants of Chamouni, having passed some days very plea- 
santly in their company, 1 will take no part in this controversy. 

Dr. Moore. 

SECTION XI. 

Of Voltaire. 

SINCE I arrived at Geneva, my correspondents have made 
many enquiries concerning the philosopher of Forney, which I am 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. £$ 

not at all surprised at. This extraordinary person has contrived 
to excite more cariosity, and to retain the attention of Europe for 
a longer space of time, than any other man this age has produced, 
monarchs and heroes included. Even the most trivial anecdotes 
relating to him, seems, in some degree, to interest the public. 

I have had frequent opportunities of conversing with him, and 
still more with those who have lived in intimacy with him for 
many years; so that the following remarks are founded, either on 
my own observation, or on that of the most candid and intelligent 
of his acquaintance. 

He has enemies and admirers here, as he has every where else; 
and not unfrequently both united in the same person. 

The first idea which has presented itself to all who have attempt- 
ed a description of his person, is that of a skeleton. In as far as 
this implies excessive leanness, it is just; but it must be remem- 
bered, that this skeleton, this mere composition of skin and bone., 
has a look of more spirit and vivacity than is generally produced 
by flesh and blood, however blooming and youthful. 

The most piercing eyes I ever beheld, are those of Voltaire, now 
in his eightieth year. His whole countenance is expressive of ge- 
nius, observation, and extreme sensibility. 

In the morning, he has a look of anxiety and discontent; but 
this gradually wears off, and after dinner he seems cheerful. An 
air of irony, however, never entirely forsakes his face, but may 
always be observed lurking in his features, whether he frowns or« 
smiles. 

When the weather is favourable, he takes an airing in his coach, 
with his niece, or with some of his guests, of whom there is always 
a sufficient number at Ferney. Sometimes he saunters in his gar- 
den; or if the weather does not permit him to go abroad, he em- 
ploys his leisure hours in playing at chess with Perc Adam, or in 
receiving the visits of strangers, a continual succession of whom at- 
tend at Eerny, to catch an opportunity of seeing him; or in dic- 
tating and reading letters; for he still retains correspondents in all 
countries of Europe, who inform him of every remarkable occur- 
ence, and send him every new literary production as soon as it ap» 
pears. 

By far the greatest part of his time is spent in his study; and 
whether he reads himself, or listens to another, he always has a 
pen in his hand, to take notes, or make remarks. 

Composition is his principal amusement. No author, who 
writes for daily bread, no young poet, ardent for distinction, is 
more assiduous with his pen, or more anxious for fresh fame, thai?, 
the wealthy and applauded Seigneur of Ferney. 

He lives in a very hospitable manner, and takes care always to 

keep a good cook. He has generally two or three visitors from 

Paris, who stay with him a month or six weeks at a time. When 

they go, their places are soon supplied; so- that there ijs a constant 

5 " "' ' 



04. THE FLOWERS OP 

rotation of society at Ferney. These, with Voltaire's own family, 
and his visitors from Geneva, compose a company of twelve or 
fourteen people, who dine daily at his table, whether he appears or 
not. For, when engaged in preparing some new production for the 
press, indisposed, or in bad spirits, he does not dine with the com- 
pany; but satisfies himself with seeing them for a few minutes, 
either before or after dinner. 

All who bring recommendations from his friends, may depend 
Upon being received,, if he be not really indisposed. He often pre- 
sents himself to the strangers, who assemble almost every afternoon 
in his ante-chamber, although they bring no particular recommen- 
dation. But sometimes they are obliged to retire, without having 
their curiosity gratified. 

As often as this happens, he is sure of being accused of peevish- 
ness; and a thousand ill-natured stories are related, perhaps invent- 
ed out of revenge, because he is not in the humour of being exhi- 
bited like a dancing bear on a holiday. It is much less surprising 
that he sometimes refuses, than that he should comply so often. 
In him this compliance must proceed solely from a desire to ob- 
lige; for Voltaire has been so long accustomed to admiration, that 
the stare of a few strangers cannot be supposed to afford him much 
pleasure. 

His niece, Madame Denis, does the honours of the table, and 
entertains the company, when her uncle is not able, or does not 
choose to appear. She is a well disposed woman, who behaves 
with good-humour to every body, and with unremitting attention 
and tenderness to her uncle. 

The morning is not a proper time to visit Voltaire. He can- 
not bear to have his hours of study interrupted. This alone is suf- 
ficient to put him out of humour; besides, he is then apt to be 
querulous, whether he suffers by the infirmities of age, or from 
some accidental cause of chagrin. Whatever be the reason, he is 
less an optimist at that part of the day than at any other. It was 
in the morning, probably, that he remarked, "que e'etoit dommage 
que le quinquina se trouvoit en Amerique, at la fievre en nos eli- 
niats. " 

Those who are invited to supper, have an opportunity of seeing 
him in the most advantageous point of view. He then exerts 
himself to entertain the company, and seems as fond of saying, 
what are called good things, as ever. And when any lively re- 
mark, or bon mot, comes from another, he is equally delighted, 
and pays the fullest tribute of applause. The spirit of mirth gains 
upon him by indulgence. When surrounded by his friends, and 
animated by the presence of women, he seems to enjoy life with 
all the sensibility of youth. His genius then surmounts the re- 
straints of age and infirmity, and flows along, in a fine strain of 
pleasing, spirited observation, and delicate irony. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 3o 

He has an excellent talent of adapting his conversation to his 

company. The first time the D of H- waited on him, he 

turned the discourse on the ancient alliance between the French 
and Scotch nations. Reciting the circumstance of one of his grace's 
predecessors having accompanied Mary, Queen of Scots, whose 
heir he at that time was, to the court of France, he spoke of the 
heroic characters of his ancestors, the ancient earls of Douglas, of 
the great literary reputation of some of his countrymen then liv- 
ing; and mentioned the names of Hume and Robertson in terms of 
high approbation. 

A short time afterwards, he was visited by two Russian noble* 
men, who are now at Geneva. Voltaire talked to them a great 
deal of their empress, and the flourishing state of their country. 
Formerly, said he, your countrymen were guided by ignorant 
priests, the arts were unknown, and your lands lay waste; but 
now the arts flourish, and the lands are cultivated. One of the 
young men replied, that there was still a great proportion of bar 
ren land in Russia. At least, said Voltaire, you must admit, that 
of late, your country has been "very fertile in laurels." 

Voltaire has great merit as a dramatic writer; and it is much to 
be wished that this extraordinary man had confined his genius to its 
native home, to the walks which the muses love, and where he has 
always been received with distinguished honour, and that he had 
never deviated from these, into the thorny paths of controversy. 
For, while he attacked the tyrants and oppressors of mankind, and 
those who have perverted the benevolent nature of Christianity to 
the most selfish and malignant purposes, it is for ever to be regret- 
ted, that he allowed the shafts of his ridicule to glance upon the 
Christian religion itself. 

By persevering in this, he has not only shocked the pious, but 
even disgusted infidels, who accuse him of borrowing from him- 
self, and repeating the same argument in various publications; and 
seem as tired of the stale sneer against the Christian doctrines, as 
of the dullest and mo~i tedious sermons in support of them. 

Dr. Moored 

- SECTION XII. 

Of Shaffhausen in Swisserland; of the Bridge over the Rhine*; 
and of the Fall of the Rhine. 

I ARRIVED here onthe22dday of July, 1776, and find great 
pleasure in breathing the air of liberty. Every person here has 
apparently the mein of content and satisfaction. The cleanliness 
of the houses, and of the people, is peculiarly striking; and I can 
trace, in all their manners, behaviour, and dress, some strong out- 
lines which distinguish this happy people from the neighbouring 
nations. Perhaps it may be prejudice and unreasonable partiality; 
but I am more pleased, because their first appearance very much 



3£> THE FLOWERS OF 

reminds mc of my own countrymen, and I could almost think, for 
a moment, that I am in England. 

Schaffhausen is a neat and tolerably well-built town, situated up- 
on the northern shore of the Rhine. It is the capital of the canton 
of the same name, and owes its origin to the interruption of the na- 
vigation of that river by the cataract at Lauffen. Huts were at first 
constructed here for the convenience of unloading the merchandise 
from the boats; and these huts, by degrees, increased to a large town. 
Schaffhausen was formerly an imperial city, and was governed by 
an aristocracy. It preserved its liberties, which were attacked hy 
the dukes of Austria, by entering into an alliance with several other 
imperial towns, and with the Swiss cantons. In 1501, it was ad- 
mitted a member of the Helvetic confederacy, being the twelfth 
canton in rank. Of all the cantons, it is the least in size, being 
only five leagues in length, and three in breadth. Its population 
is supposed to amount to 30,000 souls; of which the capital contains 
about 6000. 

The whole number of citizens or burgesses (in whom the su- 
preme power ultimately resides) is, I am informed, about sixteen 
hundred. They are divided into twelve tribes; and from these 
are elected eighty-five members, who form the sovereign council, 
consisting of a great and little council To these two councils com- 
bined, the administration of affairs is committed; the senate, or lit- 
tle concil of twenty-five, being intrusted with the executive power; 
and the great council, comprising the sena'e, finally deciding all ap- 
peals, and regulating the more important concerns of government. 

The revenues of the state arise partly from the tithes, and other 
articles of the like nature; but principally from the duties laid upon 
the merchandise which passes from Germany; and I am informed, 
that these customs are nearly sufficient to defray all the public ex- 
penses. These, indeed, are not very considerable, as will appear 
from the salary of the burgo-master, or chief of the republic, which 
barely amounts to an hundred and fifty pounds per annum. The 
reformation was introduced here in 1529 The clergy are paid 
by the state, but their income is literally not sufficient for their 
maintenance; the best living being only about an hundred pounds, 
and the worst only forty pounds per annum. The professors of litera- 
ture also, who are taken from the clergy, are paid likewise by go- 
vernment; and a public school is supported at the expense of the 
same. 

Sumptuary laws are in force here, as well as in most parts of 
Swisserland; and no dancing is allowed, except upon particular 
occasions. Silk, lace, and several other articles of luxury, are pro- 
hibited. Even the ladies' head dresses are regulated. How 
would such Gothic ordinances be received in England? They 
would serve at least to lower the price of feathers. 

But what is of still greater importance, all games of hazzard are 
strictly prohibited; and in other games, the party who loses above 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 3,7 

six florins, (about nine shillings of our money) incurs a considera- 
ble fine. An excellent regulation! And I was informed, that 
these laws are not, like ours of the same kind, mere cyphers, but 
are well observed. 

The principal article of exportation is wine, of which they make 
a large quantity, the country abounding in vineyards. And as 
the canton furnishes but little corn, they procure it from Suabia, 
in exchange for their wine. In the town there are some, but not 
very considerable, manufactures of linen, cotton, and silk. Their 
commerce, however, is very flourishing. 

Schaffhausen, although a frontier town, has no garrison, and the 
fortifications are but slight. Nothing can give a better idea of the 
security of the Swiss cantons: the citizens mount guard by turns; 
and the people of the canton being divided into regular companies 
of militia, which are exercised yearly, are always ready and pre- 
pared to take up arms in defence of their country. This canton 
has some troops in the service of France, Sardinia, and Holland; 
the only foreign services into which the subjects of the Protestant 
cantons enlist. 

Before I take my leave of this city, I must not omit mentioning 
the famous bridge over the Rhine, justly admired for the beauty 
and the singularly of its architecture. The river is extremely ra- 
pid, and had already destroyed several bridges of stone, built upon 
arches of the strongest construction; when a carpenter of Apenzel, 
undertook to throw a wooden one, of a single arch, across the river, 
which is near four hundred feet wide. The magistrates, however, 
insisted that it should consist of two arches, and that he should 
make use, for that purpose, of the middle pier of the old bridge, 
which remained entire. Accordingly, the architect was obliged 
to obey, but he has contrived it in such a manner, that the bridge 
is not at all supported by the middle pier; and it would certainly 
have been equally safe, and conderably more beautiful, had it con- 
sisted solely of one arch. But how shall I attempt to give an idea 
of it? I, who am totally inskilled in architecture, and have not 
the least knowledge of drawing? T shall, however, venture the 
following description, and hope its inaccuracy will be excused. 

It is a wooden bridge, of which the sides and top are covered, 
and the road over it, is almost perfectly level. It is what the Ger- 
mans call a haengewerk, or hanging bridge, the road not being 
carried, as usual, over the top of the arch; but if I may use the ex- 
pression, is let down into the middle of it, and there suspended. 
The middle pier is not absolutely in a right line with the side ones 
that rest upon the shore; as it forms with them a very obtuse an- 
gle, pointing down the stream, being eight feet out of the linear 
direction. The distance of this middle pier from the shore that 
lies toward the town, is one hundred and seventy-one feet, and 
from the other side, one hundred and ninety-three; in all, three 
hundred and sixty-four feet; making in appearance, two arches 



38 THH ROWERS OB 

of a surprising width, and forming the most beautiful perspective 
imaginable, when viewed at some distance. A man of the slight- 
est cveight, walking upon it, feels it tremble under him; vet wa- 
gons, heavily laden, pass over it without danger. And although, 
in the latter instance, the bridge seems almost to crack with the 
pressure, it does not appear to have ever suffered the least damage. 
It has been compared, and very justly, to a tight rope, which trem- 
bles when it is struck, but still preserves its firm and equal ten- 
sion. 1 went under this bridge, close to the middle pier, in order 
to examine its mechanism; and though in no respect a mechanic, 
I could not help being struck with the elegant simplicity of the ar- 
chitecture. I was not capable of determining whether it rests 
upon the middle pier, but most judges agree that it does not. 

When one observes the greatness of the plan, and the boldness 
of the construction, one is astonished that the architect was a com- 
mon carpenter, without the least tincture of literature, totally ig- 
norant of mathematics, and not at all versed in the theory of me- 
chanics. The name of this extraordinary man was Ulric Grruben- 
man, an obscure, drunken fellow, of Tuffen, a small village in the 
canton of Apenzel. Possessed of uncommon natural abilities, and 
a surprising turn for the practical parts of mechanics, he raised 
himself to great eminence in his profession, and may justly be 
considered as one of the most ingenious architects of the present 
century. This bridge was finished in less than three years, and 
cost 90,000 florins, or about 8000/. sterling. 

A few days ago, we set out on horseback, in order to see the 
fall of the Rhine, at Lauffen, about a league from this place. Our 
road lay over the hills which form the banks of the Rhine; from 
whence we had some fine views of the town and castle of Schaff- 
hausen. The environs are picturesque and agreeable; the river 
beautifully winding through the vale. Upon our arrival at Lauf- 
fen, a small village in the canton of Zuric, we dismounted; and 
advancing to the edge of the precipice which overhangs the Rhine, 
we looked down perpendicularly upon the cataract, and saw the 
river tumbling over the sides of the rock with amazing violence 
and precipitation. From hence we descended till we were some- 
what below the upper bed of the river, and stood close to the fall; 
so that I could almost have touched it with my hand. A scaffold 
is erected in the very spray of the tremendous cataract, and upon 
the most sublime point of view; — the sea of foam tumbling down, 
— the continual cloud of spray serttered around at a great distance, 
and to a considerable height, — in short, the magnificence of the 
noble scenery far surpassed my most sanguine expectations, and 
exceeds all description. Within about an hundred feet, as it ap- 
peared to be, of the scaffolding, there are two rocks in the middle 
of the fall, that prevent one from seeing its whole breadth from 
this point. The nearest of these was perforated by the continual 
action of river; and the water forced itself through in an oblique 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 3,9 

direction, with inexpressible fury, and an hollow sound. After 
having continued some time in contemplating; in silent admiration 
the awful solemnity of this wonderful landscape, we descended; 
and below the fall, we crossed the river, which was exceedingly 
agitated. 

Hitherto 1 had only viewed the cataract sideways. But here it 
opened by degrees, and displayed another picture which I enjoy- 
ed at my leisure, as I set myself down upon the opposite bank. 
The most striking objects were on the side we came from; a castle, 
erected upon the very edge of the precipice, and projecting over 
the river; near it, a church, and some cottages; on the side where 
I was sitting, a clump of cottages close to the fall; in the back 
ground, rising hills, planted with vines, or tufted with hanging 
woods; a beautiful little hamlet upon the summit, skirted with 
trees; the great body of water, that seemed, as it were, to rush 
out from the bottom of these hills; the two rocks above mention- 
ed, boldly advancing their heads in the midst of the fall, and in 
the very point of its steepest descent, their tops covered with 
shrubs, and dividing the cataract into three principal branches. 
The colour of the Rhine is extremely beautiful, being of a clear 
sea-green; and 1 could not but remark the fine effect of the tints, 
when blended with the white foam in its descent. There is a 
pleasing view from an iron-foundery close to the river, which is 
dammed up, in order to prevent its carrying away the works, and 
neighbouring cottages. By means of this dam, a small portion of 
the river, in its fall, enters a trough, turns a mill, and forms a 
beautiful little silver current, gliding down the bare rock, and de- 
tached from the main cataract. Below the fall, the river widens 
considerably, into a more ample bason. At the fall, the breadth, 
as well as I could judge by my eye, seemed to be about 250 feet. 
As to its perpendicular height, travellers differ. Those who are 
given to exaggeration reckon it at an hundred feet high. But I 
should imagine about fifty feet would be nearer the truth. I stood 
for some time upon the brink of the cataract; beheld in admiration, 
and listened in silence; then crossed the river, re-mounted my 
horse, and returned to Schaffhausen. 

Some writers have asserted that the river precipitates itself in 
one sheet of water; and, as I before observed, from a perpendicu- 
lar height of an hundred feet. In former ages, this account Was 
probably agreeably to fact; as' it is imagined, that the space be- 
tween the two banks, was once a level rock, and considerably 
higher; that the river has insensibly worn away, and undermined 
those parts, on which it broke along with the utmost violence. 
For, within the memory of several of the inhabitants of this town, 
a large rock has given way, that has greatly altered the view. In=- 
deed I am convinced that the perpendicular height of the fall, be^ 
comes less and less every year, by the continual friction of so large 
and rapid $ body of water; and have no doubt but that the two 



4'0 T.HE FLO WE US OF 

rocks, which now rise in the midst of the river, will, in time, he 
undermined and carried away. The river, for some way before 
the fall, even near the bridge, clashes upon a rocky bottom, and 
renders the navigation impossible for any kind of vessel. A few 
weeks ago a countryman of ours, tried an experiment with a small 
boat, which he contrived to have gently pushed to the edge of the 
cataract. It shot down entire to the bottom of the fall, was out of 
sight for a few moments, and then rose up, dashed into a thousand 
splinters. Coxe. 



SECTION XIII. 

Of Gesner, the Author of the Death of Mel; and Lavater, 
the Physiognomist. 

ON the second of August, we dined luxuriously with the Capu- 
chin friars at Rapperschwyl, who seldom regale their guests in so 
sumptuous a manner. It was one of their great feast-days; and 
accordingly, they gave us every possible variety of fresh-water fish, 
with which the lake and the neighbouring rivers abound. The 
convent is built upon the edge of the water, and commands from 
some of the apartments, a very agreeable prospect. The library 
is by far the pleasantest room, though not the most frequented. 
The cells of the monks are small, and yet not inconvenient; bur. 
cleanliness does not seem to constitute any part of their moral or 
religious observances. Indeed the very habit of the order is ill 
calculated for that purpose, as they wear no shirt nor stocking:.-, 
and are clothed in a coarse kind of a brown drugget robe, which 
trails upon the ground. Strange idea of sanctity! as if dirt could 
be acceptable to the Deity. I reflected with peculiar satisfaction, 
that I was not born a member of the Roman Catholick church: as 
perhaps the commands of a parent, a sudden disappointment, or a 
momentary fit of enthusiasm, might have sent me to a convent of 
Capuchins, and have wedded me to dirt and superstition for life. 

After dinner we took leave of our host, and departed for Zuric 
by water. The lake of Zuric is near ten leagues in length, and 
one in breadth. The city stands upon a gentle eminence, on the 
northern extremity of the lake; a beautiful situation, and advan- 
tageous for commerce. For, by means of the river Limmat, 
which issues from the lake, and dividing the town, falls into the 
Aar, there is a communication with the Rhine. And this advan- 
tage has not been neglected; as the trade of the town is very ex- 
tensive. The inhabitants are exceedingly industrious, and carry 
on with success, several different branches of manufacture; the 
principal is that of crape. Their chief traffic is with France, Rus- 
sia, Italy, and Holland. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 41> 

Since the reformation, many persons have flourished here, eminent 
for their learning in all branches of literature; and there is no town; 
in Swisserland, where letters are more encouraged, or where they 
are cultivated with greater success. I waited this morning upon 
the celebrated Gesner, author of the Death of Abel, and several 
other performances, which for their delicate and elegant simplici- 
ty, are justly esteemed. They abound with those nice touches of 
exquisite sensibility, which discover a mind warmed with the 
finest sentiments; and love is represented in the chastest colouring 
of innocence, virtue, and benevolence. Nor has he confined his 
subjects merely to the tender passion. Paternal affection., and filial 
reverence; gratitude, humanity; in short, every moral duty is ex- 
hibited and inculcated in the most pleasing and affecting manner. 
He has for some time, renounced poetry in order to take up the 
pencil; and painting is at present his favourite amusement. A 
treatise which he has published on landscape-painting, shows the 
elegance of his taste, and the versatility of his genius; while his 
compositions in both kinds, prove the resemblance of the two arts; 
and that the conceptions of the poet and of the painter are congenial. 
I prefer his drawing in black and white to his paintings; for, al- 
though the ideas in both are equally beautiful or sublime, his co- 
louring is inferior to his desiga. He is preparing a handsome edi- 
tion of his writings, in quarto, in which every part of the work is* 
carried on by himself. He prints them at his own private press, 
and is at once both the drawer and engraver of his plates. It is to 
be lamented that he has renounced poetry; for, while ordinary 
writers spring up in great plenty, authors of real genius are rare 
and uncommon. His drawings are seen only by a few, and will 
scarcely be known to posterity. But his writings are dispersed 
abroad, translated into every language, and will be admired by fu- 
ture ages, as long as there remains any relish for true pastoral sim- 
plicity, or any taste for original composition. He is plain in his 
manners; open, affable, and obliging in his address; and of singu- 
lar modesty. He has nothing of the poet in his appearance, ex- 
cept in his eye, which is full of sense, fire, and expression. 

We waited also, on Mr. Lavater, a clergyman of Zuric, and 
celebrated physiognomist, who has published a famous treatise on 
that fanciful subject. He expressed himself badly in French; but 
there was an agreeable w r armth and vivacity in his countenance, 
and manner, while he conversed upon his favourite subject. That 
particular passions, have a certain effect upon particular features, 
is evident to the most common observer; and it may be conceiv- 
ed, that an habitual indulgence of these passions may possibly, in 
some cases, impress a distinguishing mark on the countenance. 
But that a certain cast of features constantly denotes certain pas- 
sions; and that by contemplating the former, we can infallibly 
discover, also, the mental qualities of the owner, is an hypothesis 
liable (I should think,) to so many exceptions, that no general 
6 



42- THE FLOWERS OP 

and uniform system coukl be justly formed upon it. Nevertheless. 
Mr. Lavater, like a true enthusiast, carries his theory much fur- 
ther. For he not only pretends to discover the characters and 
passions by the features, by the complexion, by the form of 
the hand, and by the motions of the arms, but he also draws some 
inferences of the same kind, even from one's hand-writing. And 
indeed his system is formed upon such universal principles, that 
he applies the same rules to all animated nature, extending them 
not only to brutes, but even to insects. That the temper of a horse 
may be discovered, by his countenance, does not strike one as any 
thing absurd. But was it ever heard before, that any quality 
could be inferred from the physiognomy of a bee, or of an ant? 
"While I give my opinion thus freely concerning Mr. Lavater's no- 
tions, it will be readily perceived, that I am not one of those who 
are initiated into the mysteries of his art. Nor do I mean 1o cen- 
sure, indiscriminately, the system of that celebrated writer. For, 
notwithstanding the extravagance of some of his tenets, the sever- 
est critics allow r , that there is a fund of good sense, and a variety 
of fine observations dispersed throughout his treatise; and that it 
is one of those works, which, to be admired, needs only to be 
read with attention. 

The clergy of Zuric, are in general, better paid, than in the other 
Protestant cantons; and among that body there are some who are 
very decently provided for; a circumstance rather uncommon in 
the Reformed or Presbyterian churches. 

Sumptuary laws, as well as those against immorality, are here 
well observed. The former indeed may exist, and be carried into 
execution, even among a people much corrupted; for it may be the 
policy of government to enforce their observance. But the se- 
verest penalties will not be sufficient to prevent crimes of an im- 
moral tendency, amidst a general dissolution of manners. It is 
the popular principles that can alone invigorate such laws, and give 
them their full operation. Among the Romans, the laws against 
adultery were severe; and yet where was adultery more practised 
than at Rome? In Zuric, it is rigorously punished, without any 
distinction of rank, by fine, by expulsion from office, and by im- 
prisonment. But the frequency of this crime is not so much re- 
strained by the penalty annexed to it, as from the general good 
morals of the inhabitants. Secret crimes cannot be prevented; but 
it is an evident proot of public virtue, when open breaches of mor- 
ality are discountenanced. Among their sumptuary laws, the use 
of a carriage in the town, is prohibited to all sorts of persons ex- 
cept strangers. And it is almost inconceivable, that in a place so 
very commercial and wealthy, luxury should so little prevail. 
r The public granary, on account of its admirable institution, de- 
serves to be particularly mentioned. Corn is purchased by go- 
vernment, and given out to those who choose to buy it, at the 
common price; but in seasons of scarcity it is sold considerably 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 4'3 

cheaper than it can be bought at the market. The use of this in- 
stitution appeared in the late dearth; when bread, from the dear- 
ness of corn, was sold at ten pence the pound, government deliv- 
ered the same quantity for four pence. 

The arsenal is well supplied with cannon, arms, and ammuni- 
tion; and contains a reserve of muskets for thirty thousand men. 
We saw there, and much admired, some of the two-handed swords, 
and weighty armour of the old Swiss warriors; as also, the bow 
and arrow, with which William Tell is said to have shot the ap- 
ple off the head of his son. Coxe. 



SECTION XIV. 

Expedition across the Valley of Tee, hi the Glacier of Mori? 
tanvert. *d. D. 1776. 

ON the 23d of August, we went to see "Less Murailles de 
Glace," so called from their resemblance to walls. They consist 
of large ranges of ice, of prodigious thickness and solidity, rising 
abruptly from their base, and parallel to each other. Some of 
these ranges appear to us about an hundred and fifty feet high; but, 
if we may believe our guides, they are four hundred feet above 
their real base. Near them were pyramids and cones of ice, of all 
forms and sizes, shooting up to a very considerable height, in the 
most beautiful and fantastic shapes imaginable. From this Glacier, 
which we crossed without much difficulty, we had a fine view of 
the vale of Chamouni. 

On the 24th, we proposed sallying forth very early, in order to 
go to the Valley of Ice, in the Glacier of Montanvert, and to pen- 
etrate as far as the time would admit; but the weather proving 
cloudy, and likely to rain, we deferred setting out till nine, when 
appearances gave us the hope of its clearing up. Accordingly we 
procured three excellent guides, and ascended on horseback, some 
part of the way over the mountain, which leads to the Glacier 
above mentioned. We were then obliged to dismount, and scram= 
bled up the rest of the mountains (chiefly covered with pines), 
along a steep and rugged path, called "the road of the chrystal- 
hunters." From the summit of Montanvert, we descended a lit- 
tle, to the edge of the Glacier, and made a refreshing meal upon 
some cold provision, which we brought with us. A large block 
of granite, called "Lapierre des Aglois," served us for a table; 
and near us was a miserable hovel, where those who make expe- 
ditions towards Mont Blanc, frequently pass the night. The 
scene around us was magnificent and sublime; numberless rocks 
rising boldly above the clouds, some of whose tops were bare, 
others covered with snow. Many of these, gradually diminish- 
ing towards their summits, end in sharp points; and from this cir- 



44 THE FLOWERS OP 

cumstance, they are called the Needles. Between these rocks, the 
Valley of Ice stretches several leagues in length, and is nearly a 
mile broad, extending on one side, towards Mont Blanc, and on 
the other, towards the plain of Chamouni. 

After we had sufficiently refreshed ourselves, we prepared for 
our adventure across the ice. We had each of us, a long pole 
spiked with iron, and in order to secure us as much as possible 
from slipping, the guides fastened to our shoes crampons, con- 
sisting of a small bar of iron, to which are fixed four small spikes 
of the same metal. 

The difficulty of crossing these valleys of ice, arises from the im- 
mense chasms. They are produced by several causes; but more 
particularly by the continual melting of the interior surface. This 
frequently occasions a sinking of the ice; and under such circum- 
stances, the whole mass is suddenly rent assunder, in that parti- 
cular place, with a most violent explosion. We rolled down large 
stones into several of them, and the great length of time before 
they reached the bottom, gave us some conception of their depth. 
Our guides assured us, that in some places, they are five hundred 
feet deep. I can no otherwise convey to you an image of this im- 
menoe body of ice, consisting of continued, irregular ridges and 
deep chasms, than by resembling it to a raging sea, that had been 
instantaneously frozen in the midst of a violent storm. 

We began our walk with great slowness and deliberation, but 
we gradually gained more courage and confidence as we advanced; 
and we s-^on found that we could safely pass along those parts, 
where the ascent and descent were not very considerable, much faster 
even than when walking at the rate of our common pace. In other 
parts, we leaped over the clefts, and slid down the steeper descents, 
as well as we could. In one place where we descended, and step- 
ped across an opening upon a narrow ridge of ice, scarcely three 
inches broad, we were obliged to tread with peculiar caution; for on 
each side were chasms of a great depth. We walked some paces side- 
ways along this ridge; stept across the chasm into a little hollow, 
which the guides made on purpose for our feet, and got up an as- 
cent, by means of small holes, which we made with the spikes of 
our poles. All this sounds terrible; but at the time, we had none of 
Us, the least apprehensions ot danger, as the guides were exceed- 
ingly careful, and took excellent precautions. One of our ser- 
vants had the courage to follow us without crampons, and with 
no nails to his shoes, which was certainly dangerous, on account 
of the slipperiness of the leather when wetted. He got along, 
Tiowever, surprisingly well; though in some places we were alarm- 
ed, lest he should slip upon the edge of one of those chasms; for 
iiad that accident happened to any of us, we must inevitably have 
been lost, having neglected to provide ourselves with long ropes, 
in case of such an event. This man was probably the first person 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 45 

who ever ventured across the Valley of Ice, without either cram- 
pons or nails to his shoes. 

We were now almost arrived at the other extremity, when we 
were stopped by a chasm so broad, that there was no possibility of 
passing; it. We were obliged to make a circuit of above a quarter 
of a mile, in order to get round this vast opening. This will give 
you some idea of the difficulty attending excursions over some of 
these Glaciers; and our guides informed us, that when they hunt 
the chamois and the marmot fes in these desolate regions, these un- 
avoidable circuits, generally carry them six or seven miles about, 
when they would have only two miles to go, if they could pro- 
ceed in a straight line. 

A storm threatening us every moment, we were obliged to has- 
ten off the Glacier as fast as possible, for rain renders the ice ex- 
ceedingly slippery; and in case of a fog (which generally accom- 
panies a storm in these upper regions,) our situation would have 
been extremely dangerous. And indeed we had no time to lose; 
for the tempest began just as we had quitted the ice, and soon be- 
came very violent, attended with frequent flashes of lightning, 
and loud peals of thunder, which being re-echoed within the hol- 
lows of the mountains, added greatly to the awful sublimity of the 
scene. 

We now descended a very steep precipice, and for some way, 
were obliged to crawl upon our hands and feet, down a bare rock, 
the storm at the same time roaring over us, and rendering the rock 
extremely slippery. We were by this time, quite wet through, 
but we got to the bottom, however, without much hurt. Upon 
observing the immense extent of these Glaciers, I could not help 
remarking, (and it is a circumstance which many other travellers 
have observed before,) what a fund is here laid up for the supply 
of rivers, and that the sources which gave rise to the Rhine, the 
Rhone, and the Po, will never fail. I returned at length to the 
inn, as dripping wet as if I had been plunged into water, but per- 
fectly satisfied with my expedition. 

I cannot conceive any subject in natural history more curious 
than the formation and progress of these Glaciers; running far into 
fields of corn, and rich pasture, and lying, without being melted, 
in a situation "where the sun has power sufficient to ripen the fruits 
of the field. It is literally true, that with one hand, we could touch 
ice, and with the other ripe corn. But as this is a subject too import- 
ant to be treated superficially, and requires much accurate obser- 
vation, and repeated experimental investigation, I shall not at- 
tempt to enter into it. I beg leave, nevertheless, to make one ob- 
servation, which will serve to prove the occasional increase, and 
diminution of the Glaciers, contrary to the opinion of some philo- 
sophers, who advance that they remain always the same; and of 
others, who assert that they are continually increasing. I think, 
I may venture to assert, that both these opinions are untenable; 



40 THE FLOWERS OB 

and it happens in this, as in many other subjects, that experience 
and truth are sacrificed, to the supporting of a favourite hypothesis. 
Indeed the fact seems to be, that thes<> Glaciers, in some years, 
increase considerably in extent, while in others, they recede: and 
of this I am perfectly convinced, from the following circum- 
stances. 

The borders, of the Valley of Ice, of the Glacier of Montanvert, 
are mostly skirted with trees. Towards its toot, a vast arch of ice 
rises to near an hundred feet in height; from under which, the 
continued droppings from the melting of the ice and snow, aie 
collected together, and form the Arveron, which rushes forth with 
considerable force, and in a large body of water. As we approach- 
ed the extremity of this arch, we passed through a wood of firs. 
Those which stand at a little distance from the ice, are about eigh- 
ty feet high, and are undoubtedly of a very great age. Between 
these and the Glacier, the trees are of a later growth, as it is evi- 
dent, as well from their inferior size, as from their texture and 
shape. Others, which resemble the later, have been overturned 
and enveloped in the ice. In all these several trees, respectively 
situated in the spots I have mentioned, there seems to be a kind of 
regular gradation in their age, from the largest size to those that 
lie prostrate. 

These facts fairly lead, it should s«-em, to the following conclu- 
sion; — that the Glacier once extended as far as the row of tall firs; 
that upon its retiring, a number of trees have shot up in the very 
spots, which it formerly occupied; that within some years, the 
Glacier has begun to advance, and in its progress has overturned 
the trees of later date, before they have had time to grow up to any 
considerable height. 

To these circumstances, another fact may be added, which ap- 
pears to me convincing. There are large stones of granite, which 
are found only a small distance from the extremities of the Glacier. 
These are vast fragments, which have certainly fallen down from 
the mountains upon the ice, have been carried on by the Glacier 
in its increase, and have tumbled into the plain, upon the melting 
or sinking of the ice, which supported them. Goxe. 



SECTION XV. 

Of Berne, in Swisserland. 

I WAS very much struck, upon my entrance into Berne, with 
its singular neatness and beauty. I do not remember to have seen 
any town, (Bath alone excepted,) the first appearance whereof, had 
so pleasing an effect. The principal street is broad and long; the 
houses are mostly uniform, built of a greyish stone, upon arcades, 
which are admirably well paved. Through the middle of tb$ 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 47 

street runs a lively stream of the clearest water, in a channel con- 
structed for its reception. But besides this stream, it abounds 
with fountains, not less ornamental to the place, than beneficial to 
the inhabitants. The river Aar flows close by the town, and in- 
deed almost surrounds it, winding its serpentine course over a 
rocky bottom, much below the level of the streets; and for a con- 
siderable way forming by its banks, which are steep and craggy, a 
kind of natural rampart. The cathedral church is a noble piece of 
Gothic architecture. It stands upon a platform, that has been 
raised at a great expense, from the bed of the river, and which 
commands as fine a view as any I have seen in Swisserland. 

The country around is richly cultivated, and agreeably diversi- 
fied with hills, lawns, wood, and water; the river flows rapidly 
below, and an abrupt chain of high and rugged Alps appears at 
some distance, the tops whereof are covered with eternal snow. 
Such an assemblage of beautiful objects would, in any view, pre- 
sent a most striking prospect; but its effect becomes greatly heigh- 
tened when seen from the midst of a large town. 

All the public buildings are in a most noble simplicity of style, 
and announce the riches and grandeur of the republic. The arse- 
nal contains arms for sixty thousand men, beside a considerable 
quantity of cannon which were cast here. The granary is an ex- 
cellent institution, similar to that of Zuric; but it differs from that 
of Geneva, as the expense does not fall chiefly upon the poor: for 
the bakers are not compelled by government to purchase their corn 
from the public magazine. 

The hospitals, which are large, airy, and well built, are ■excel- 
lently regulated, both with respect to the care and attention paid 
to the sick, and to the cleanliness of the several wards. The 
town is kept neat by a number of felons, who are sentenced to this 
drudgery during a certain time, according to the nature of their 
offences; and as capital condemnations are very rare, this is the 
most usual manner of punishing their criminals. These culprits 
are distinguished by an iron collar, with a hook projecting over 
their heads. 

The library is a small, but well chosen collection, and contains 
some very curious manuscripts. Of these Mr. Sinner, a man of 
great erudition, has published a very satisfactory and judicious 
catalogue. He has not only set forth their titles, and ascertained 
their age, but has also given a general and succinct account of their 
respective subjects; and from many of them has published extracts 
equally curious and interesting. Among these manucripts are some 
of the thirteenth century / consisting of several songs and romances 
of the Troubadours, written in that and the preceding ages, which, 
merit the attention of those who are conversant in that species of 
ancient poetry. 

I have been much disappointed in not seeing the great Halleiv 
Hi.s very infirm state of health would not admit of his receiving a 



48 THE FLOWERS Of 

visit from us. I need not mention, how eminently that celebrated 
authour has distinguished himself, in every species of polite litera- 
ture, and in several branches of natural philosophy. Unlike cer- 
tain minute philosophers of the present age, whose atheistical and 
infidel writings are too well known, ahd too widely disseminated, 
this great man is so unfashionable, as to have followed the steps 
of a Locke and a Newton; and to have proved himself, both in his 
life and his writings, a zealous friend, and able advocate of Christian- 
ity. When literature and philosophy, instead of being employed, 
as they too often have been, in supporting sceptical tenets by art- 
ful sophistry, thus lend their joint assistance to the cause of reli- 
gion, it is then only, that they become an honour to the possessor, 
and a benefit to society. 

Learning is neither so universally encouraged, nor so success- 
fully cultivated here as at Zuric. The academical studies are al- 
most soieJy directed to those branches of knowledge, more essen- 
tially necessary for entering into the church. The society for the 
promotion of agriculture, is almost the only establishment which 
directly tends to the progress of the arts and sciences; and even 
this meets with no great countenance from government. There is 
but little trade in the capital. Some few manufactures indeed, 
chiefly of linen and silk, have heen established; but they are 
carried on by those only who have no prospect of being admitted 
into the sovereign council. For those families, who have any in- 
fluence on public affairs, would hold themselves degraded, were 
they engaged in any branch of commerce; and as offices of the 
state, except bailliages, are in general not very profitable, nor in- 
deed numerous, many of them enter, as their sole resource into 
foreign armies. With respect to those among them, who have 
sufficient interest to be chosen into the sovereign council, they 
must have attained the full age of twenty-nine, before they are 
eligible. In the mean while, as very few of them apply their 
minds to literary pursuits, they usually from mere want of em- 
ployment, waste the inverval, in an idle and dissipated course of 
life. JNeveitheless, there are several members of the sovereign 
council, who are justly distinguished for their political abilities; 
an<!, being thoroughly acquainted with the respective interests of 
the different powers of Europe, they know perfectly well how to 
avail themselves of every conjuncture, which may be turned to 
the advantage or the glory of their own republic. 

The inhabitants of Berne value themselves much upon their po- 
liteness to strangers. And indeed, it is but doing them strict jus- 
tice, to acknowledge, that they have shown us, (with that peculiar 
frankness and unaffected affability, I have so often had occasion to 
admire in the Swiss,) every civility in their power. Coxe. 



s. 


d. 





H 





n 










2£ 





\\ 





i* 





n 





6 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 49 

SECTION XVI. 

Of the Price of Provisions in Swisserland. J2. D. 1776, 

THE following is the ordinary price of provisions throughout 
the mountainous parts of Swisserland. 

Butcher's meat, per pound 
Bread, ditto - - - - 
Butter, ditto - 
Cheese, ditto - - 
Salt, ditto - - - 
Milk, per quart - 
Worst Wine, per ditto r - 
Pays de Vaud Wine - 

By this, as one may perceive, that in proportion, bread is much 
dearer than the other articles; and the reason is obvious; for all 
these mountainous parts, consist almost entirely of pasturages, and 
produce little corn. The peasants of Swisserland, (I mean those 
who inhabit the mountainous districts,) live chiefly upon milk, 
and what results from it, together with potatoes, which are here 
much cultivalted. According to the price of provisions in Eng- 
land, the above list will appear exceedingly cheap; but then it 
ought, at the same time, to be considered, that money is very 
scarce in these parts. Nor indeed is it so much necessary, in a 
country where there is no luxury; where all the peasantry have, 
within themselves, more than sufficient for their own consump- 
tion; and are tolerably well provided with every necessary of life, 
from their own little demesnes. I had a long conversation with 
one of the lads who came with us from Altdorf, and takes care of 
the horses. He lives upon the mountains of Uri; and, as their 
winter lasts near eight months of the year, during some part of 
which time there can be little communication between the several 
cottages, every family is of course obliged to la# in their provi- 
sion for the whole winter. His own, it seems, consists of sever* 
persons, and is provided with the following stores; — Seven cheeses, 
each weighing twenty-five pounds; an hundred and eight pounds 
of hard bread, twenty-five baskets of potatoes, each weighing about 
forty pounds; seven goats, and three cows, one of which they kill. 
The cows and horses, (if they keep any,) are fed with hay, and 
the goats with the boughs of firs; which in a scarcity of hay, they 
give also to their cattle. During this dreary season, the family 
are employed in making linen, shirts, &c. sufficient for their own 
use: and, for this purpose, a small patch, of the little piece of 
ground belonging <o every cottage, is- gejiejaHy spwa with flax> 

1 



50 THE FLOWERS OF 

The cultivation of the latter has been much attended to, and with 
increasing success, in these mountainous parts of Swisserland. 

The houses are generally built of wood; and it was a natural re- 
mark of one of our servants, as we passed through such a contin- 
ued chain of rocks, that as there was stone enough to build all the 
cottages in the country, it was wonderful they should use nothing 
but wood for that purpose: a remark that has been made by many 
travellers. But it should seem, that these wooden houses are sooner 
constructed, and are easily repaired; that they are built in so solid 
and compact a manner, (the rooms small and the ceilings low,) as 
to be sufficiently warm, even for so cold a climate. The chief ob- 
jection to them, arises from the danger of fire; as the flames must 
rage with great rapidity; and communicate easily from one to the 
other. This inconvenience however, is in a great measure obviat- 
ed by the method of building their cottages apart; all their villages 
consisting of detached and scattered hamlets. But this observa- 
tion does not hold, with respect to some of their largest burghs; 
and these must, consequently, be exposed to the ravages of this 
most dreadful of all calamities. Coxe, 



SECTION XVII. 

General Reflections upon the Thirteen Swiss Cantons. 
A. D. 1776. 

THERE is no part of Europe which contains, within the same 
extent of region, so many independent commonwealths, and such 
a variety of different governments, as are collected together in this 
remarkable and delightful country; and yet, with such wisdom 
was the Helvetic union composed, and so little have the Swiss, of 
late years, been actuated with the spirit of conquest, that since the 
firm and compete establishment of their general confederacy, they 
have scarcely ever had occasion to employ their arms against a for- 
eign enemy; and have had no hostile commotions among themselves 
which were not very soon happily terminated. Perhaps there is 
not a similar instance in ancient or modern history, of a warlike 
people, divided into little independent republics, closely border- 
ing upon each other, and of course, having occasionally interfering 
interests, having continued, during so long a period,' in an almost 
uninterrupted state of tranquility. And thus, while the several 
neighbouring kingdoms have suffered, by turns, all the horrors of 
internal war, this favoured nation, has enjoyed the felicity describ- 
ed by Lucretius, and looked down with security upon the various 
tempests which have shaken the world around them. 

But the happiness of a long peace has neither broken the spirit, 
nor enervated the arm of this people. The yftuth are diligently 
trained to all the martial exercises, such as running, wrestling, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 51 

and shooting, both with the cross-bow, and musket; a considerable 
number of well-disciplined Swiss troops are always employed in 
foreign services; and the whole people are enrolled, and regularly 
exercised it their respective militia. By these means, they are 
capable, in case it should be necessary, of collecting a very res- 
pectable body of forces, which could not fail of proving formida- 
ble to any enemy, who should invade their country or attack their 
liberties. Thus, while most of the other states upon the continent 
are tending more and more towards a military government, Swis- 
serland alone, has no standing armies; and yet, from the nature of 
its situation, from its particular alliances, and from the policy of its 
internal government, is more secure from invasion than any other 
European power, and full as able to withstand the greatest force 
that can be brought ggainst it. 

But the felicity of Swisserland, does not consist merely in being' 
peculiarly exempted from the burdens and miseries of war; there 
is no country, in which happiness and content more universally 
prevail among the people. For, whether the government be aris- 
tocratical, democratical, or mixed; absolute or limited; a general 
spirit of liberty pervades and actuates the several constitutions; so 
that even the oligarchial states, which, of all others, are usually 
the most tyrannical, are here peculiarly mild; and the property 
of the subject is securely guarded against every kind of violation. 

But there is one general defect in their criminal jurisprudence, 
which prevails throughout this country. For although the Caro- 
line code, as it is styled, or the code of the emperor Charles V. 
forms, in each of the republics, the principal basis of their penal 
laws, with particular modifications and additions, in different dis- 
tricts, yet much too great a latitude is allowed to the respective 
judges, who are less governed in their determinations by this 
code, or any other written law, than by the common principles of 
justice. How far long experience may have justified the prudence 
of trusting them with this extraordinary privilege, I cannot say; 
but discretionary powers of this kind, are undoubtedly liable to 
the most alarming abuse, and can never, without the greatest haz- 
ard, be committed to the hands of the magistrate. 

I cannot forbear reflecting, upon this occasion, on the superior 
wisdom, in the present instance, as well as in many others, of our 
own most invaluable constitution; and indeed, it is impossible for 
an Englishman to observe, in his travels, the governments of other 
countries, without becoming a warmer and more affectionate ad- 
mirer of his own. In England, the life and liberty of the subject, 
does not depend upon the arbitrary decision of his judge, but is se- 
cured by express laws, from which no magistrates can depart with 
impunity. This guarded precision, it is true, may occasionally, 
perhaps, be attended with some inconveniences; but they are over- 
balanced by advantages of so much greater weight, as to be scarce- 
ly perceptible in the scales of justice. I do not mean, however, 



%2 THE FLOWERS OF 

to throw any imputation upon the officers of criminal jurisdiction 
in Switzerland. As far as I could observe, they administer dis- 
tributive justice, with an impartial and equitable hand. 

One cannot but be astonished, as well as concerned, to find that, 
in a country where the true principles of civil government are so 
well understood, and so generally adopted, as in Swisserland, the 
trial by torture is not yet abolished. For, in some particular cases, 
the suspected criminal is still put to the rack. The inefficacy, no 
less than the inhumanity, of endeavouring to extort the truth, by 
the several horrid instruments, which too ingenious cruelty have 
devised for that purpose, has been so often exposed by the ablest 
writers, that it would be equally impertinent and superfluous, to trou- 
ble the world with any reflections of mine upon the subject. And, 
indeed, the whole strength of the several arguments, which have 
been urged upon this occasion, is comprised in the very just and 
pointed observation of the admirable Bruyere, that, "la question 
est une invention marveilleuse et tout-a-fait sure, pour perdre un 
innocent qui a la complexion foible, et sauver un coupable qui est 
nerobuste." I cannot, however, but add, injustice to the Swiss, 
that zealous advocates have not been wanting among them for the 
total abolition of torture. But arguments of reason, and senti- 
ments of humanity, have been found, even in this civilised and 
enlightened country, to avail little against inveterate custom and 
long-confirmed prejudices. 

Criminal justice is in Swisserland, as in the greatest part of Eu- 
rope, administered agreeably to the rules of the civil law. Ac- 
cording to the maxims of that code, the criminal's confession is 
absolutely requisite, in order to his suffering capital punishment; 
and consequently, all those nations, who have not established a 
new code of criminal jurisprudence, retain the use of torture. 

The present king of Prussia, it is well known, set the example 
in Germany, of abolishing this inhuman practice; but few, per- 
haps, are apprised, that the first hint of this reformation, was sug- 
gested to him by reading the History of England. For, one of 
the principal arguments in support of this method of extorting con- 
fession, being, that it affords the best means of discovering plots 
against government, the sagacious monarch remarked, that the 
British annals fully confute the fallacy of that reasoning. Few 
kingdoms, he observed, had abounded more in conspiracies and 
rebellions than England; and yet that the leaders and abettors of 
them, had been more successfully traced and discovered, without 
the use of torture, than in any other country, where it was prac- 
tised. "From thence/' added this wise politician, speaking upon 
the subject, "I saw the absurdity of torture, and abolished it ac- 
cordingly." 

The above anecdote, which I had from very respectable author- 
ity, bears the most honourable testimony to the efficacy as well as 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. \ 53 

the mildness of our penal laws, and to the superior excellency, of 
the process observed in our courts of criminal justice. 

With respect to agriculture, there is, perhaps, no country in the 
world, where the advantageous effects^ of unwearied and persever- 
ing industry are more remarkably conspicuous. In travelling 
over the mountainous parts of Swisserland, I was struck with ad- 
miration and astonishment, to observe rocks, that were formerly bar- 
ren, now planted with vines, or abounding in rich pasture; to maj-k 
the traces of the plough, along the side of the pricipices, so steep, 
that it must be with great difficulty that a horse could even mount 
them. In a word, the inhabitants seem to have surmounted every 
obstruction which soil, situation, and climate, had thrown in their 
way, and to have spread fertility over various spots of the coun- 
try, which nature seemed to have consigned to everlasting barren- 
ness. In fine, a general simplicity of manners, an open and un- 
affected frankness, together with an invincible spirit of freedom, 
may justly be mentioned in the number of those peculiar qualities, 
which dignify the public character of the people, and distinguish 
them with honour, among the nations of Europe. 

Learning is less generally diffused among the catholic, than the 
protestant states. But in both, a man of letters, will find abundant 
opportunity of gratifying his researches, and improving his know- 
ledge. To the natural philosopher, Swisserland will afford an in- 
exhaustible source of entertainment and information, as well from 
the great variety of physical curiosities, so plentifully spread over 
the country, as from the considerable number of persons eminent- 
ly skilled in that branch of science. Indeed, in every town, and 
almost in every village, the curious traveller will meet with col- 
lections worthy of his attention. Coxe* 



SECTION XVIII. 
Of Frankfort. Ji. D. 1775. 

AMONG the remarkable things in Frankfort, the inns may be 
reckoned. Two in particular, the Emperor, and the Red House, 
for cleanliness, conveniency, and number of apartments, are supe- 
rior to any I ever saw on the continent, and vie with our most 
magnificient inns in England. 

At these, as at all other inns in Germany, there is an ordinary, 
at which the strangers may dine and sup. This is called the Table 
d'Hote, from the circumstance of the landlord's sitting at the bot- 
tom of the table, and carving the victuals. The same name for an 
ordinary, is still retained in France, though the landlord does not 
sit at the table, which was the case formerly in that country, and 
still is the custom in Germany. 



54 THE FLOWERS OP 

There are no private lodgings to be had here, as in London. 
Stiangcrs, therefore, retain apartments at the inn, during the 
whole time of their residence in any of the towns. And travellers 
of every denomination, in this country, under the rank of sove- 
reign princes, make no scruple of eating occasionally, at the table 
d'hote of the inn where they lodge, which custom is universally 
followed by strangers, from every country, on the continent of 
Europe. 

Many of our countrymen, however, despise ccconomy, and hate 
the company of strangers, prefer eating in their own apartments 
to the table d'hote, or any private table, to which they may he 
invited. 

Tt would be arrogance in any body, to dispute the right which 
every free born Englishman has, to follow his own inclination in 
this particular. Yet, when people wish to avoid the company of 
strangers, it strikes me, that they might indulge their fancy as com- 
pletely at home as abroad; and while they continue in that hu- 
mour, I cannot help thinking that they might save themselves the 
inconveniency and expense of travelling. 

The manners and genius of nations, it is true, are not to be 
learnt at inns, nor is the most select company to be found at pub- 
lic ordinaries; yet a person of observation, and who is fond of the 
study of character, will sometimes find instruction and entertain- 
ment at both. He there sees the inhabitants of the country, on a 
less ceremonious footing than he can elsewhere, and hears the 
remarks of travellers of every degree. 

The first care of a traveller certainly should be, to form an ac- 
quaintance, and some degree of intimacy, with the principal people 
in every place where he intends to reside; — to accept invitations 
to their family parties, and attend their societies; — to entertain 
them at his apartments, when that can be conveniently done, and 
•endeavour to acquire a just notion of their government, customs, 
sentiments, and manner of living. Those who are fond of the stu- 
dy of man, which, with all due deference to the philosophers, who 
prefer that of beasts, birds, and butterflies, is al^p a pardonable 
amusement, will mix occasionally, with all degrees of people, and, 
-when not otherwise engaged, will not scruple to take a seat at the 
table d'hote. It is said, that low people are sometimes to be found 
at these ordinaries. This, to be sure, is a weighty objection; but 
then it should be remembered, that it is within the bounds of pos- 
sibility, that men, even engaged in commerce, may have liberal 
minds, and may be able to give as distinct account of what is wor- 
thy of observation, as if they had been as idle as people of the high- 
est fashion, through the whole of their lives. A man must have a 
turgid idea of his own grandeur, if he cannot submit, in a foreign 
country, to dine at a table with a person of inferior rank: especial- 
ly as he will meet, at the same time, with others equal, or superior 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS.. 55 

m rank to himself. For all etiquette of this nature is waved, even 
in Germany, at the tables d'hotes. 

A knowledge of the characters of men, as they appear varied in 
different situations and countries; the study of human nature, in- 
deed, in all its forms and modifications, is highly interesting to the 
mind, and worthy the attention of the greatest man. This is not 
to be perfectly attained in courts and palaces. The investigator of 
nature, must visit her in humble life, and put himself on a level 
with the men whom he wishes to know. 

It is generally found, that those who possess real .greatness of 
mind, never hesitate to overleap the obstacles, and despise the 
forms, which may stand in the way of their acquiring this useful 
knowledge. 

The most powerful of all arguments against entirely declining 
to appear at the public table of the inn, is, that in this country it 
is customary for the ladies themselves, when on a journey, to eat 
there; and my partiality for the table d'hote, may possibly be ow- 
ing, in some degree, to my having met, at one of them, with two 
of the handsomest women that I have seen since I have been in 
this country, which abounds in female beauty. 

There is more expression in the countenances of French 
women; but the ladies in Germany, have the advantage in the fair- 
ness of their skin, and the bloom of their complexion. They have 
a greater resemblance to English women than to French; yet they 
differ considerably from them both. I do not know how to give 
an idea of the various shades of expression, which, i£ I mistake not, 
1 can distinguish in the features of the sex, in these three countries., 

A handsome French woman, besides the ease of her manner, has 
commonly a look of cheerfulness, and great vivacity. She ap- 
pears willing to be acquainted with you, and seems to expect yon 
should address her. 

The manner of an English woman is not so void of restraint; 
and a stranger, especially if he be a foreigner, may observe a look 
which borders on disdain, in her countenance. Even among the 
loveliest features, something of a sulky air often appears. 

A German beauty, without the smart air of the one, or the 
reserve of the other, has generally a more placid look than either. 

Dr. Moore. 



SECTION XIX. 
Of the Queen of Denmark, t/i. JD. 1775. 

THE D of H , having determined to pay his-. 

respects to the queen of Denmark, before he left Hanover, chose 
to make his visit while the hereditary princess was with her sister. 

I accompanied him to Zell, and next day waited on the count 



56 THE FLOWERS OF 

and countess Dean, to let them know of the d 's arrival, and to 

be informed when we could have the honour of being presented to 
the queen. They both belong to the princess of Brunswick's fa- 
mil}', and while I was at breakfast with them, her royal highness 
entered the room, and gave me the information I wanted. 

Before dinner, I returned with the duke to the castle, where wo 
remained till late in the evening. There was a concert of music 
between dinner and supper, and the queen seemed in better spirits 
than could have been expected. 

Zell is a stmall town, without trade or manufactures; the houses 
are old, and of a mean appearance, yet the high courts of appeal, for 
all the territories of the electoral house of Brunswick Lunenburg, 
are held here. The inhabitants derive their principal means of sub- 
sistence from this circumstance. This town was severely harass- 
ed by the French army, at the beginning of the late war, and was 
afterwards pillaged, in revenge for the supposed infraction of the 
treaty of Closter-Seven. The duke de Richlieu had his head quar- 
ters here, when duke Ferdinand re-assembled the troops who had 
been disarmed, and dispersed immediately after that convention. 

The castle is a stately building, surrounded by a moat, and 
strongly fortified. It was formerly the residence of the dukes of 
Zell, and was lately repaired by order of the king of Great Britain, 
for the reception of his unfortunate sister. The apartments are 
spacious and convenient, and now handsomely furnished. 

The officers of the court, the queen's maids of honour, and 
other attendants, have a very genteel appearance, and retain the 
most respectful attachment to their ill-fated mistress. The few 
days we remained at Zell, were spent entirely at court, where 
every thing seemed to be arranged in the style of the other small 
German courts, and nothing wanting to render the queen's situa- 
tion as comfortable as circumstances would admit; but by far her 
greatest consolation, is the company and conversation of her sis- 
ter. Some degree of satisfaction appears in her countenance, 
while the princess remains at Zell; but the moment she goes away, 
the queen, as we are informed, becomes a prey to dejection and 
despondency. The princess exerts herself to prevent this, and de- 
votes to her sister, all the time she can spare from the duties she 
owes to her own family. Unlike those, who take the first pretext 
of breaking connections, which can no longer be of advantage, this 
humane princess, has displayed even more attachment to her sister 
since her misfortunes, than she ever did while the queen was in 
the meridian of her prosperity. 

The youth, the agreeable countenance, and obliging manners of 
the queen, have conciliated the minds of every one in this country. 
Though she was in perfect health, and appeared cheerful, yet con- 
vinced that her gaiety was assumed, and the effect of a strong effort, 
I felt an impression of melancholy, which it was not in my power 
to overcome, all the time we remained at Zell. 



©ELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 57 

On the evening of our arrival at Hanover, we had the pleasure 
of hearing Handel's Messiah performed. Some of the best com- 
pany of this place were assembled on this occasion, and we were 
here made acquainted with old field-martial Sporken, and other 
people of distinction. Hanover is a neat, thriving and agreeable 
city. It has more the 'appearance of an English town, than any 
other I have seen in Germany, and the English manners and cus- 
toms gain ground every day, among the inhabitants. The genial 
influence of freedom has extended* from England to this place. 
Tyranny is not felt, and ease and satisfaction appear in the coun- 
tenances of the citizens. Dr. MoobE. 



SECTION XX. 

Of the Palace at Postdam, and the King of Prussia, 
A. D. 1775. 

THE palace at Postdam, or what they call the castle, is a very 
noble building, with magnificent gardens adjacent. I shall not 
particularly describe either; only it struck me as a thing rather 
uncommon in a palace, to find the study, by far the finest apart- 
ment in it. The ornaments of this, are of massy silver. The 
writing-desk, the embellishments of the table, and the accommo- 
dations of the books, were all in fine taste. 

The person who attended us, asked if we had a desire to see his 
majesty's wardrobe? On being answered in the affirmative, he 
conducted us to the chamber where the monarch's clothes are de- 
posited. The whole wardrobe consisted of two blue coats, faced 
with red, the lining of one a little torn; — two yellowish waist- 
coats, a good deal soiled with Spanish snuff; — three pair of yellow 
breeches, and a suit of blue velvet, embroidered with silver, for 
grand occasions. 

I imagined at first, that the man had got a few of the king's old 
clothes, and kept them here to amuse strangers. But, upon en- 
quiry, I was assured, that what I have mentioned, with two suits 
of uniform, which he has at Sans-Souci, form the entire wardrobe 
of the king of Prussia. Our attendant said he had never known 
it more complete. As for the velvet suit, it was about ten years 
of age, and still enjoyed all the vigour of youth. Indeed, if the 
moths spare it as much as his majesty has done, it may last the 
age of Methusalem. 

In the same room, are some standards, belonging to the cavalry. 
Instead of the usual square flag, two or three of these have the nW 
gures of eagles in carved silver, fixed on a pole. 

In the bed-chamber where the late king died, at the lower part 
of the window, which looks into the garden, four panes have been 
removed; and a piece of glass, equal in size to all Hie four, sup* 



58 THE FLOWERS OF 

plies their place. We were informed that his late majesty's su- 
preme delight through life, had been to see his troops exercise, 
and that he had retained this passion till his last breath. When 
he was confined to his room, by his last illness, he used to sit and 
view them through the window, which had been framed in this 
manner, that he might enjoy these dying contemplations with the 
greatest conveniency. . Becoming gradually weaker, by the in- 
creasing distemper, he could not sit, but was obliged to lie on 
a couch through the day. When at any time he was uncommon- 
ly languid, they raised his head to the window, and a sight of 
the men under arms, was perceived to operate like a cordial, and 
revive his spirits. By frequent repetition, however, even this 
cordial lost its effect. His eyes became dim; when his head was 
raised, he could no longer perceive the soldiers, and he expired. 

This was feeling the ruling passion as strong in death as any 
man ever felt it. 

When we arrived at Postdam, there was nothing I was so eager 
to see, as the Prussian troops at their exercises; but the frequent 
reviews have completely satiated my curiosity. And though the 
gardens of the palace, are just opposite to the windows of our inn, 
1 hardly ever go to look at the guards, who parade there every 
morning. A few days ago, however, I happened to take a very 
early walk, about a mile out of town, and seeing some soldiers 
under arms, in a field, at a small distance from the road, I went 
towards them. An officer on horseback, whom I took to be the 
major, for he gave the word of command, was uncommonly active, 
and often rode among the ranks, to reprimand or instruct the 
common men. When I came nearer, I was much surprised to 
find that this was the king himself. He had his sword drawn, and 
continued to exercise the corps for an hour after. He made them 
wheel, march, form the Square, and fire by divisions, and in pla- 
toons, observing all their motions with infinite attention, and on 
account of some blunder, put two officers of the prince of Prussia's 
regiment, under arrest. In short, he seemed to exert himself with 
all the spirit of a young officer, eager to attract the notice of his 
general by uncommon alertness. 

I expressed my suprise to an officer present, that the king was 
not willing to take some repose, particularly from that kind of 
employment, of which he had so very much of late, and that he 
could take so much pains with a mere handful of men, immediate- 
ly after he had come from exercising whole armies. 

This gentleman told me, that on this particular day, the king 
had been trying some new evolutions; but though this had not 
been the case, he might very possibly have been in the field: for his 
maxim was, that his troops should display as much briskness on 
a common field day, as if they were to engage in battle; and there- 
fore it was never known when he intended to be present, or not; 
—that as for repose, he took it between ten at night and four in 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 59 

the morning, and his other hours were all devoted to action, 
either of body or mind, or both; and that the exercise he had just 
taken, was probably by way of relaxation, after three hours' pre- 
vious labour in his cabinet. 

The more I see and hear of this extraordinary man, the more I 
am astonished. He reconciles qualities, which I used to think 
incompatible. I once was of opinion, that the mind which stoops 
to very small objects, is incapable of embracing great ones. I 
am now convinced that he is an exception; for, while few objects 
are too great for his genius, none seem too small for his atten- 
tion. 

I once thought that a man of much vivacity, was not capable of 
entering into the detail of business. I now see, that he who is 
certainly a man of wit, can continue methodically, the necessary 
routine of business, with the patience and perseverance of the 
greatest dunce that ever drudged in a compting-house. 

We have lately seen the Italians perform; but neither the plays, 
nor. the operas, nor any part of the entertainments, interest me 
one half so much, or could draw me so assiduously to Sans-Souci, 
as the opportunity this attendance gives of seeing the king. — • 
Other monarchs acquire importance from their station; this prince 
gives importance to his. The traveller in other countries, has a 
wish to see the King, because he admires the kingdom — here the 
objects of curiosity is reversed. — And let us suppose the palaces, 
•and the towns, and the country, and the army of Prussia, ever so 
fine, yet our chief interest in them, will arise from their belonging 
to Frederick the Second; the man who, without any ally but Bri- 
tain, repelled the united forces of Austria, France, Russia, and 
Sweden. 

Count Nesselrode, talking with me on this subject, had an ex- 
pression equally lively and just: — "C'est dans l'adversite qu'il 
brille: lorsqu'il est bien comprime, il a un ressort irresistible." 

The evening of the day on which I had seen the King in the 
field, I was at Sans-Souci; for I wish to neglect no opportunity of 
being present where this monarch is. I like to stand near him, 
to hear him speak, and to observe his movements, attitudes, and 
most indifferent actions. He always behaves with particular af- 
fability to D of H . One evening, before the play be- 
gan, his grace and I were standing accidentally with count Fin- 
kenstein, in a room adjoining to the great apartment where the 
company were. The King entered alone, when he was not ex- 
pected, and immediately began a conversation with the D . 

He asked several questions relating to the British constitution; 
particularly at what age a peer could take his seat in parliament? 
When the Duke replied, "At twenty-one." It is evident from 
that, said the King, that the English patricians acquire the neces- 
sary talents for legislation, much sooner than those of ancient Rome, 
Tvho were not admitted into the senate till the age of forty. 



60 THE FLOWERS OF 

He then enquired about the state of Lord Chatham's health, 
and expressed high esteem for the character of that minister. He 
asked me if I had received letters by the last post, and if they 
mentioned any thing of the affairs in America. He said there 
were accounts from Holland, that the English troops had been 
driven from Boston, and the Americans were in possession of that 
place. I told him our letters informed us, that the army had left 
Boston to make an attack with more effect elsewhere. 

He smiled, and said, — If you will not allow the retreat to have 
been an affair of necessity, you will at least admit, that it was 
"tout-a-fait a-propos." 

He said he heard that some British officers had gone into the 
American service, and mentioned Col. Lee, whom he had seen at 
his court. He observed, that it was a difficult thing to govern 
men by force at such a distance; that if the Americans should be 
beat, which appeared a little problematical, still it would be next 
to impossible, to continue to draw from them a revenue by taxa- 
tion; — that if we intended conciliation with America, some of our 
measures were too rough; and if we intended its subjection, they 
were too gentle. He concluded by saying, "Enfin, Messieurs, je 
ne comprends pas ces choses la; je n'ai point de colonie: j'espere 
que vous tirerez bien d'affaire; mais elle me paWit un peu epin- 
euse." Having said this, he walked into the Princess's apart- 
ment, to lead her to the play-house, while we joined the compa- 
ny already assembled there. The tragedy of Mahomet was per- 
formed, which, in my opinion, is the finest of all Voltaire's dra- 
matic pieces, and that in which Le Kain appears to the greatest 
advantage. 

As most people are desirous to be made acquainted with every 
thing which regards the King of Prussia, I am, perhaps, in dan- 
ger of lenthening my descriptions with a tedious minuteness. I 
do not, however, pretend to draw a complete portrait of this mon- 
arch. That must be the work of much abler painters, who have 
seen him in a more familiar manner, and whose colours can give 
an expression worthy of the original. I shall only attempt to 
give a faithful sketch of such features as I was able to seize, during 
the transient view I myself had, or which I have learnt from those 
who have passed with him, many of the hours which he dedicates 
to free conversation, and the pleasures of the table. 

The King of Prussia is below the middle size, well made, and 
remarkably active, for his time of life. He has become hardy by 
exercise and a laborious life; for his constitution, seems originally 
to have been none of the strongest. His look, announces spirit 
and penetration. He has fine blue eyes; and, in my opinion, his 
countenance upon the whole, is agreeable. Some who have seen 
him are of a different opinion. All who judge from his portraits 
only, must be so; for although I have seen many, which have a 
little resemblance of Mm, and some which have a great deal, yet 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 61 

none of them do him justice. His features acquire a wonderful 
degree of animation, while he converses. This is entirely lost 
upon canvas. 

He stoops considerably, and inclines his head almost constantly 
on one side. 

His tone of voice is the clearest, and most agreeable in conver- 
sation I ever heard. 

He speaks a great deal; yet those who hear him, regret that he 
does not speak a great deal more. His observations are always 
lively, very often just, and few men possess the talent of repartee 
in greater perfection. 

He hardly ever varies his dress, which consists of a blue coat 
lined and faced with red, a yellow waistcoat and breeches. He 
always wears boots, with hussar tops, which fall in wrinkles 
about his ancles, and are oftener of a dark brown than a black 
colour. 

His hat would be thought extravagantly large in England, 
though it is of the size commonly used by the Prussian officers of 
cavalry. He generally wears one of the large side corners over 
his forehead and eyes, and the front cock at one side. 

He wears his hair cued behind; aud dressed with a single buc- 
kle on each side. From their being very carelessly put up, and 
unequally powdered, we may naturally conclude, that the friseur 
has been greatly hurried in the execution of his office. 

He uses a very large gold snuff-box, the lid ornamented with 
diamonds, and takes an immoderate quantity of Spanish snuff, the 
marks of which very often appear on his waistcoat and breeches. 
These are also liable to be soiled by the paws of two or three 
Italian greyhounds, which he often caresses. 

He dresses as soon as he gets up in the morning. This takes 
up but a few minutes, and serves for the whole day. It has often 
been said, that the king of Prussia's hours, from four or five in 
the morning till ten at night, are all dedicated, methodically, to par- 
ticular occupations, either of business or amusement. This is 
certainly true; and the arrangement has not sustained such an 
interruption for many years, as since the present company came 
to Postdam. 

Some, who pretend to more than common penetration, assert, 
that at present, they can perceive marks of uneasiness in his coun- 
tenance, and seem convinced, that there will not be such another 
company at Sans-Souci during this reign. 

All business with the king is transacted by letters. Every pe- 
tition or proposal must be made in this form, which is adhered to 
so invariably, as I have been assured, that if any of his generals 
wished to promote a cadet to the rank of ensign, he would not 
venture to make his proposal in any other manner, even though 
he had daily opportunities of conversing with his majesty. 



'62 TJIF. FLOWERS OF 

The meanest of his subjects may apply to him in writing, and 
are sure of an answer. His first business, every morning, is the 
perusing the papers addressed to him. A single word written 
with his pencil on the margin, indicates the answer to be given, 
which is afterwards made out in form, by his secretaries. This 
method affords the King time to deliberate on the justice and 
propriety of every demand, and prevents the possibility of his 
being surprised into a promise, which it might be inconvenient to 
perform. 

He sits down to dinner precisely at noon. Of late, he allows 
more time to his repast than formerly. It is generally after three 
before be leaves the company. Eight or nine of his officers are 
commonly invited to dine with him. Since our coming to Post- 
dam, Count Nesselrode, and the Abbe Bastiani, two men of let- 
ters, were the only company besides the officers, who dined with 
the king, while he lived in his usual way, at the Old Palace of 
Sans-Souci; these two were then of his party almost every da}'. 
The Count has now left this Court; the Abbe has an apartment in 
the Palace. He is an Italian by birth, a man of wit, and an ex- 
cellent companion. 

At table, the King likes that every person should appear to be 
on a footing, and that the conversation should be carried on with 
perfect freedom. The thing, by the way, is impossible. That 
confidential unrestrained flow of the heart, which takes place in a 
society of equals, is a pleasure, which a despotic Prince can never 
taste. However, his Majesty desires that it may be so, and they 
make the best of it they can. 

At one of these meetings, when the King was in a gay humour, 
he said to Bastiani, — When you shall obtain the tiara, which your 
exemplary piety must one day procure you, how will you receive 
me when I arrive at Rome, to pay my duty to your Holiness? — 
I will immediately give orders, replied the Abbe, with great read- 
iness, "Qu'on fasse antrer l'aigle noir, — qu'il me couvre de ses 
ailes, mais— qu'il m'tpargne de son bee." 

Nobody says more lively things in conversation than the king 
himself. Many of his bon-mots are repeated here. I shall only 
mention one, which is at once an instance of his wit, and great- 
ness of mind, in rendering justice to the merit of a man, who has 
caused him more vexation than perhaps any other person alive. 
When the King of Prussia had a personal meeting, some years since 
with the Emperor, they always dined together, a certain number 
of their principal officers being with them. One day General 
Laudohn was going to place himself at the bottom of the table, 
when the King, who was at the head, called to him, "Venez, je 
vous ex prie, Monsieur Laudohn, places vous ici. J'aime infini- 
ment mieux vous avoir de mon cote que vis-a-vis." 

Though all the cordiality of friendship, and the full charms of 
unreserved society, cannot exist, where the fortune ot every other 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 65 

individual depends on the will of one of the company; yet the 
King endeavours to put every one as much at his ease, as the na- 
ture of the case will admit; and I have heard of his bearing 
some very severe retorts with perfect good humour. He has 
too much wit himself, and is too fond of it in others, to repel 
its attacks with any other weapon than those which it furnishes. 
None but the most absurd of dunces could attempt to rally, with- 
out being able to allow of raiiery; and only the meanest of souls 
would think of revenging the liberties taken with a companion 
by the power of a King. 

A very striking instance of the freedom which may be used 
with him, occured a little before the late reviews; and what makes 
it more remarkable, it happened, not during the gaiety of the 
table, but on the very scene of military strictness. 

Two regiments were in the field. That of General , 

was one of them. This officer is fond of company, and passes 
more of his time in the society of strangers, and with the foreign 
ministers, than most others in # the Prussian service. Something, 
it is probable, had chagrined the King that morning. While the 
regiment advanced in a line, he said to the General, who stood 

near him, "Votre regiment n'est pas aligne, Monsieur , 

et ce n'est pas surprenant, vous jouez tant aux cartes." The Ge- 
neral called out instantly with a loud voice to the regiment, Alte! 
and they' immediately stopped. Then, turning to the King, he 
said, "II n'est pas question, Sire, de mes cartes — Mais, ayez la 
bonte de regarder si ce regiment n'est pas aligne." — The regi- 
ment was in a very straight line, and the King moved away with- 
out speaking, seemingly displeased, not with the General, but 
with himself. This manly officer never had reason afterwards to 
believe that the King had taken his freedom amiss. 

It is absolutely impossible for any man to enjoy an office in the 
King of Prussia's service; without performing the duty of it. He 
is himself, active and assiduous, and he makes it a point, that all 
his ministers and servants shall be so too. But to those who 
know their business, and perform it exactly, he is an easy and 
equitable master. 

A gentleman, who has been many j^ears about his person, and. 
is now one of his aid-de-camps, assured me of this: — The King 
understands what ought to be done; and his servants are never 
exposed to the ridiculous or contradictory orders of ignorance, or 
the mortifications of caprice. 

His favourites, of whatever kind, never v?ere able to acquire 
influence over him in any thing regarding business. Nobody ever 
knew better how to discriminate the merit of those who serve him 
in the important departments of state, from theirs who contribute 
to his amusement. A man who performs the duties of his office 
with alertness and fidelity, has nothing to apprehend from, the 
King's being fond of the company and conversation of his enemy. 



64 THE FLOWJEHS OF 

Let the one be regaled at the King's table every day, while me 
other never receives a single invitation; yet the real merit of both 
is known; and if his adversary should ever try to turn the King's 
favour to the purposes of private hatred or malice, the attempt, 
will be repelled with disdain, and the evil intended to another, will 
fall to himself. Dk. Moore. 



SECTION XXI. 

Of the Hereditary Prince of Prussia. 

THE Hereditary Prince of Prussia, lives in a small house in 
the town of Postdam. ■ His appointments do not admit of that 
degree of magnificence, which might be expected in the heir of 
the crown; — but he displays a spirit of hospitality, far more oblig- 
ing than magnificence, and doubly meritorious, considering the 
very moderate revenue allowed him. We generally sup there 
two or three times a week. 

The prince is not often of the King's parties, nor is it imagined 
that he enjoys a great share of his uncle's favour. In what degree 
he possesses the talents of a general, Is not known, as he was too 
young to have any command during the late war. Eut he cer- 
tainly has a very just understanding, which has been improved by 
study. He has taken some pains to acquire the English language, 
to which he was induced by an admiration of several English 
authors, whose works he had read in French and German. He is 
now able to read English prose with tolerable facility, and has 
been of late, studying Shakespeare, having actually read two or 
three of his plays. . 

I took the liberty to observe, that as Shakspeare's genius had 
traced every labyrinth, and penetrated into every recess of the 
human heart, his sentiments could not fail to please his Royal 
Highness; but as his language was uncommonly bold and figura- 
tive, and full of allusions to national customs, and the manners of 
our island, two centuries ago, the English themselves, who had 
not made a particular study of his works, did not always compre- 
hend their full energy. I added, that to transfuse the soul of 
Shakspeare into a translation, was impossible; and to taste all his 
beauties in the original, required such a knowledge of the En- 
glish manners and language, as few foreigners, even after a long 
residence in the capital could attain. 

The Prince said he was aware of all this; yet he was determin- 
ed to struggle hard for some acquaintance with an author so much 
admiredby the English nation; that though he should never be 
able to taste all his excellencies, he was convinced he should un- 
derstand enough to recompense him for his trouble; that he had 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. §5 

already studied some detached parts, which he thought superior 
to any thing he had ever met with in the works of any other 
poet. 

His Royal Highness attends to military business with as much 
assiduity as most officers of the same rank in the army; for in the 
Prussian service, no decree of eminence in the article of birth, can 
excuse a remission in the duties of that profession. He is much 
esteemed by the army, and considered as an exceeding good of- 
ficer. To the frankness of a soldier, he joins the integrity of a 
German, and is beloved by the public in general, on account of 
his good nature, affability, and humane turn of mind. 

Dr. Moore> 



SECTION XXII. 

Of the Emperor of Germany. 

THE Emperor is of a middle size, well made, and of a fair 
complexion. He has a considerable resemblance to his sister, 
the queen of France, which in my opinion, is saying a great deal 
in favour of his looks. Till I saw something of his usual behaviour, 
I did not think it possible for a person in such an elevated situa- 
tion, to put every body with whom he conversed, upon so easy a 
footing. 

His manner is affable, obliging, and perfectly free from the re» 
served and lofty deportment assumed by some, on account of high 
birth. Whoever has the honour to be in company with him, so 
far "from being checked by such despicable pride, has need to be 
on his guard, not to adopt such a degree of familiarity as, whatever 
the condition of the one might permit, would be highly improper itt 
the other use. 

He is regular in his way of life, mo.derate in his pleasures, 
steady in his plans, and diligent in business. He is fond of his 
army, and inclines that the soldiers should have every comfort 
and necessary consistent with their situation. He is certainly an 
©economist, and lavishes very little money on useless pomp, mis- 
tresses, or favourites; and it is, I suppose, on no better foundation, 
than this, that his enemies accuse him of avarice. 

I cannot help regarding ceconomy as one of the most useful 
qualities in a prince. Liberality, even when pushed to an 
imprudent length, may, in a private person, proceed from a kind 
of greatness of mind, because his fortune is in every sense his 
own, and he can injure no body but himself, in lavishing it away. 
He knows that when it is gone, nobody will reimburse him for 
his extravagance. He seems, therefore, to have taken the resolu- 
tion to submit to the inconvettiency of future poverty, ra^h^r thjflfi- 



6tf THE FLOWERS OF 

renounce the present happiness eff acting with a magnificent libe- 
rality, and bestowing on others more than be can afford. 

This is not the case with a prince. What be squanders is not 
his own, but the public money. lie knows that lus pomp and 
splendour will be kept up, and that bis subjects, nut himself, are 
to feel the inconveniences of bis prodigality. When I bear there- 
fore, that a king has given great sums of money to any particular 
person; from the sums given, the person who receives, the* motive 
fur the gift, and other circumstances; I can judge whether it is 
well or ill disposed of; but, in either case, it cannot be called 
gc nerosity . Hy . j 

The virtue of generosity consists in a man's, depriving himself 
of something for the sake of another. There can be no generos- 
ity in giving to John what James must replace the next moment. 
What is called generosity in kings, very often consists in bestow- 
ing that money on the idle part of their subjects which they 
have squeezed from tiie industrious. I have heard a parcel of fid- 
dlers and opera dancers praise a prince for his noble and generous 
behaviour to them, while men near bis person, of useful talents 
and real worth, were distressed for bread. The emperor certain- 
ly has none of that kind of generosity. 

His Usual dress, (the only one indeed, in which I ever saw him, 
except at the feast of the knights of St. Stephen) is a plain uniform 
of white, faced with red. When he goes to Laxenberg, Schoubrun, 
and other places near Vienna, he generally drives two horses in 
an open chaise, with a servant behind, and no other attendant of 
any kind. He very seldom allows the guard to turn out, as he 
passes through the gate. No body ever had a stronger disposi- 
tion to judicious enquiry. He is fond of conversing with ingenuous 
people. When he hears of any person, of whatever rank or 
country, being distinguished for any particular talent, he is eager 
to converse with him, and turns the conversation to the subject 
on which the person is thought to excel, drawing from him all 
the useful information he cam Of all the means of knowledge, 
this is perhaps the most powerful, and the most proper, that can 
be used by one whose more necessary occupations do not leave him 
much time for study. 

He seems to be of opinion, that the vanity and ignorance of 
many princes are frequently owing to the forms in which they 
are entrenched, and to their being deprived of -the advantages 
which the rest of mankind enjoy from a free comparison, and ex- 
change of sentiment. He is convinced, that, unless a king can 
contrive to live, in some societies, on a footing of equality, and 
can weigh his own merit, without throwing his guards and pomp 
into the scale, it will be difficult for him to know either the world 
or himself. 

One evening, at the countess Walstein's, the conversation lead- 
ing that way, the emperor enumerated some remarkable and hi- 



CELEBRATE I) TRAVELLERS, 6.7 

dicrous instances of the inconveniences of etiquette, which had 
occurred at a certain court. One person hinted at the effectual 
means his majesty had used to banish every inconveniency of that 
kind from the court, of Vienna; to which he replied, it would be 
lard indeed, if, because I have the ill fortune to be an emperor, 
I should be deprived of the pleasures of social life, which are so 
much to my taste. All the grimace, and parade to which people 
in my situation are accustomed from their cradle, have not made 
me so vain, as to imagine, that I am in any essential quality, su- 
perior to other men; and, if I had any tendency to such an opi- 
nion, the surest way to get rid of it, is the method. I take of mixing 
in society, where I have daily, occasions of finding myself infe- 
rior in talents to those I meet with. Conscious of this, it would 
afford me no enjoyment to assume airs of a superiority, which I 
feel does not exist. I endeavour therefore to please, and to be 
pleased; and as much as the inconveniency of my situation will 
permit, to enjoy the blessings of society like other men, convinced 
that the man who is secluded from those, and raises himself above 
friendship, is also raised above happiness, and deprived of the 
means of acquiring knowledge. 

This kind of language is not uncommon with poor philosophers; 
but I imagine it is rarely held by princes, and the inferences to 
be drawn from it, more rarely put in practice. 

A few days after this, there was an exhibition of fire-works on 
the Prater. This is a large park, planted with wood, and sur- 
rounded by the Danube, over which there is a wooden bridge. 
No carriages being allowed to pass, the company leave their coach- 
es at one end, and walk. There is a narrow path railed off on one 
side of the bridge. Many people very injudiciously took this; 
path, to which there is an easy entrance at one end, but the exit 
is difficult at the other; for only one person can go out at a time. 
The path, therefore, was very soon choaked up; the unfortunate 
passengers crept on at a snail's pace, and in the most straitened 
and disagreeable manner imaginable; whilst those who had kept 
the wide path in the middle of the bridge, like the fortunate and 
wealthy in their journey through life, moved along at their ease, 
totally regardless of the wretched circumstances of their fellow 
passengers. 

Son e few of the prisoners in the narrow passage, who where of" 
a small size, and uncommon address, crawled under the rail, and 
got into the broad walk in the middle, but all who were tall, and 
of a larger make, were obliged to remain, and submit to their fate. 
An Englishman, who had been at the countess Walstein's, when 
the emperor expressed himself as above mentioned, was of the 
last class. The emperor, as he passed, seeing that those of a 
small size extricated themselves, while the Englishman remained 
fixed in a very awkward situation, called out, "Ah, Monsieur! 
Je vous ai bien annonce combien il est incommode d'etre trap 



(ifi THE FLOWERS OF 

grand. A present vous devez etre bien dc mon avis. Mais 
comme je ne puis rien faire pour vous soulager, je vous recom- 
mende a Saint George." 

There are people who, having heard of the emperor's uncom- 
mon affability, and of his total contempt, of pomp and parade, of 
which the bulk of mankind, are so nvuch enamoured, have assert- 
ed that the whole is affectation. Rut, if the whole tenor of any 
person's words is to be considered as affectation, I do not know 
by what means we are to get at the bottom of his real character. 
Yet, people who have a violent taste for any particular thing, are 
extremely ready to believe, that those who have not the same 
taste a.re affected. Dr. Moorf, 



SECTION XXIII. 
Of the Idolatry of the Roman Catholics. 

THE preference which is given by individuals in Roman Catho- 
lic countries, to particular saints, proceeds sometimes from a sup- 
posed connection between the characters of the saints and the vo- 
taries; men expect the greatest favour and indulgence from those 
"who most resemble themselves, and naturally admire others for 
the qualities which they value most in their own character. 

A French officer of dragoons, being at Rome, went to view the 
famous statue of Moses, by Michael Angelo. The ai'tist has con- 
veyed into this master-piece, in the opinion of somej all the dig- 
nity which a human form and human features are capable of re- 
ceiving. He has endeavoured to give this statue a countenance 
worthy of the great legislator of the Jews, the favourite of hea- 
ven, who had conversed face to face with the Deity. The offi- 
cer happened to be acquainted with the history of Moses, but he 
laid no great stress on any of these circumstances. He admired 
liim much more on account of one adventure, in which he imagin- 
ed Moses had acquitted himself like a man of spirit, and as he 
himself would have done: — "Voila qui est terrible! voila qui est. 
sublims!" cried he, at sight of the statue; and, after a little pause, 
he added: — "On voit la un drole qui a donne des coups de baton 
en son terns, et qui a tuc son homrae." 

The crucifixes, and statues, and pictures of saints, with which 
?opish churches are fdled, were no doubt, intended to awaken de- 
votion when it became drowsy, and to excite in the mind, grati- 
tude and veneration, for the hol} r persons they present. But it. 
cannot be denied, that the gross imaginations of the generality of 
mankind, are exceedingly prone to forget the originals, and trans- 
fer their adoration to the senseless figures which they behold, and 
before which they kneel. So that whatever was the original 
design, and, whatever effects those statues and pictures have on 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 69 

the minds of calm, sensible Roman Catholics, it is certain that 
they often are the objects of as complete idolatry as ever was 
practised in Athens or Rome, before the statues of Jupiter or 
Apollo. 

On what other principle do such multitudes flock from all the 
Roman Catholic countries in Europe, to the shrine of our Lady 
at Loretto? Any statue of the virgin, would serve as effectually 
as that, to recal her to the memory; and people may adore her as 
devoutly in their own parish churches, as in the chapel at Loretto. 
The pilgrims, therefore, must be persuaded, that there is some divine 
influence or intelligence, in the statue which is kept there; that 
it has a consciousness of all the trouble they have taken, and the 
inconveniences to which they have been exposed, by long journies, 
for the sole purpose of kneeling before it, in preference of all 
other images. 

It was probably on account of this tendency of the human mind, 
that the Jews were forbid to make unto themselves any graven 
image. This incfeed, seems to have been the only method of 
securing that superstitious people from idolatry; and notwith- 
standing the peremptory tenor of the commandment, neither the 
Zeal nor remonstrances of their judges and prophets, could al- 
ways prevent, their making idols, nor hinder their worshipping 
them wherever they found them read}' made. 

Statues and pictures of saints, which have been long in particu- 
lar families, are generally kept with great care and attention. 
The proprietors ofte,n have the same kind of attachment to them, 
that ,the ancient heathens bad to their Dii Penates. They are 
considered as tutelary and domestic divinities, from whom the 
family expect protection. When a series of unfortunate events 
happens in a family, it sometimes creates a suspicion that the fa- 
mily statues have lost their influence. This also, is a very an- 
cient sentiment. Suetonius informs us, that the fleet of Augustus 
having been dispersed by a storm, and many of the ships lost, 
the emperor gave orders that the statue of Neptune should not be 
carried in procession with those of the other gods, from an opi- 
nion that the god of the sea was unwilling or unable toprotect his 
navy; and, in either case, he deemed him not worthy of any pub- 
lic mark of distinction. 

The genuine tenets of the Roman Catholic church, certainly do 
not authorise any of the superstitions above mentioned, which 
are generally confined to the credulous and illiterate in the low 
ranks of life. Yet instances are sometimes to be met with in a 
higher sphere. A Frenchman in a creditable way of life, had a 
small figure of our Saviour on the cross, of very curious workman- 
ship; he offered it for sale, to an English gentleman of my ac- 
qaintance; after expatiating- on the excellency of the workman- 
ship, he told him he had long kept this crucifix with the most 
pious care; that he had always addressed it in his private devo- 



70 XHB FLOWE&S 01 

fiou, and that in redan, lie expected some degree o/ protectipn 
and favour; instead of which, he had of late been re.markahly un- 
fortunate; that all the tickets he had in the lottery, had proved 
blanks; and having had a great share in the cargo of a ship com- 
ing from the West Indies, he had recommended it in the most 
fervent manner, in his prayers to the crucifix, and that he might 
give no offence, by any appearance of want of faith, he had not 
insured the goods; notwithstanding all which, the vessel had 
been shipwrecked, and the cargo totally lost, though the sailors, 
in whose preservation he had no concern, had been all saved. — 
"Enfin, monsieur," cried he, with an accent of indignation, min- 
gled with regret, and raising his shoulders above his ears, "En- 
fin monsieur, il m'a manque et je vends mon Christ." 

Happy for Christians of every denomination, could the) r abidi? 
by the plain, rational, benevolent precepts of the Christian re- 
ligion, rejecting all the conceits of superstition, which never fail 
ro deform its original beauty, and to corrupt its intrinsic purit}'! 

Dr. Mooke, 



SECTION XXIV. 
Of Copenhagen. A. D. 1774. 

I FIND hardly any inconveniency resulting from my igno- 
rance of the Danish language. Every person of fashion speaks 
French, and many of them English. Tire gentlemen of the army 
and navy, here in particular, arc almost universally used to these 
languages. They are, at least several of them with whom I have 
fallen into company, extremely disposed to treat a stranger with 
every mark of urbanity and politeness. One of them has already 
promised to accompany me over the island of Zealand, and to be 
my conductor on a tour I propose making to see the royal palaces. 

Though the month of May, will begin in a few days, the wea- 
ther is still very cold here. We have had hail almost every day 
since my arrival; nor are there as yet, any marks of that sweet 
s-eason, which Ihe Italians so justly denominate the Giovenhi del 
:.t,u.no y but which is pretty much unknown to Danish poets. In- 
deed, I apprehend the year is more properly divided here, into 
flic summer and winter, than as with us, into four seasons. A 
short summer succeeds to the long ser.ies of cold and darkness, 
which environs them from October till April; and during this 
period, they often experience very great heats for a few days, or 
sometimes weeks. Certainly man is much affected by physi- 
cal causes, and one is not surprised to find the elegant arts chiefly 
confined to luxurious and southern climates, and faintly raising 
their heads amid these snowy and inhospitable regions, where the 
inhabitants seem, in some degree, to partake of the asperities of 



CELEBRATE!) TRAVELLERS. Jl 

their soil, and where royal munificence, however unbounded, caii 
only raise a few sickly and straggling plants. 

They seem to have a great turn for politics here, and as it may 
not be quite so safe to inspect too deeply, into the conduct of their 
own sovereign and statesmen, they make themselves some amends 
by interesting themselves in those of the EhglL-h nation. 

I am asked a thousand questions here, in every company, about 
the inhabitants of Boston, and relative to 1 lie East India affairs. 
They are unanimous in opinion, that the colonies will be soon ab- 
solutely free; and they give me a look of incredibility, and a sig- 
nificant shake of the head, when I assure them that Boston must 
submit, and that government have uniformly embraced the most 
gentle, mild, and parental measures; I see they do not believc- 
me, and I am obliged to refer them to futurity, for the test of my 
assertions. 

So few persons visit this metropolis or kingdom, from motives 
of curiosity, that they are quite surprised, when I assure them that 
I have no sort of business here, and am only employed in the search 
of knowledge. Indeed, I apprehend, a month or five weeks is 
fully adequate to the completion of these purposes;,, and I shall 
not delay my departure an hour after that time. 

There is no face of industry or business here, and Copenhagen, 
though one of the finest ports in the world, can boast of little com- 
merce. The public places are filled with officers either in the 
land or sea service, and they appear to constitute three-fourths of 
the audience at the comedy and opera. The number of forces., 
are, indeed, much too large for this little kingdom, which has not 
been engaged in war these fifty years. They can boast, 'tis true, 
a vast extent of dominion; but of what importance are the barren 
and almost uninhabited mountains of Norway and Lapland,, 
stretching to the pole? or the plains of Iceland, where the inhabi- 
tants are yet, and will probably remain, in the most profound bar- 
barism? Their German dominions of Holstein, arc by far the most 
rich, and furnish a large part of the royal revenue. There needs, 
indeed, no stronger proof of the poverty of the kingdom, than the 
scarcity of specie. I have seen no gold, and hardly any silver. 
They pay every thing in paper; and if you lose a single dollar at 
the- card- table, or the billiard-table, it is given in a bill. I re- 
ceived two hundred rix dollars yesterday morning, a-nd not a sin- 
gle one in money. 

The police of Copenhagen is exceedingly good, and one may 
walk through the whole city at midnight, with the most perfect 
safety. No robberies, no assassinations are heard of. They wear 
no cloaks, nor conceal any stilettoes under their habits, as in the 
southern kingdoms of Europe. Indeed, it is usually almost as 
quiet here at eleven o'clock at night, as in a country village, and 
.scarce a coach rattles through the : stTeets, 



12 THE FLOWElla pi 

I do not apprehend this capital can be above the fourth part of 
the size of London, possibly not so much. It is fortified towards 
the land by a fosse, always full of water. The streets are com- 
monly of a good breadth, and the houses very neat and handsome. 
There is one very beautiful place here, which approaches nearer 
to a circus than a square; each side or division of which is only 
one palace, and in the centre is an equestrian statue in bronze of the 
late king Frederick V. I must own I was much more pleased 
with this, than with the Place de Victories at Paris, and I think 
it has a much better effect. Wraxall. 



SECTION XXV. 
Of the Court of Copenhagen. 

I HAVE not had the honour of being presented to the sovereign 
here, as is customury with strangers from the other kingdoms of Eu- 
rope, It is sufficient that I am an Englishman, not to wish it; and in- 
deed, with so jealous an eye are we regarded, at present, in this capi 
tal, that I can assure you, because I have it from the most respectable 
and incontcstible authority, that so little an individual as,myself, 
so humble and unknown a traveller as I am, is not only publicly 
talked of, but even suspected as a spy, because I came from En- 
gland,and have no avowed motives, except curiosity and knowledge. 
I have never, therefore, been at the levee, which is every Friday; 
but I go to the drawing room, and mingle unnoticed among the 
crowd. I was there last night, when his majesty, the queen 
dowager, and prince Frederick, the king's brother, were present. 
To give you a picture of the court, as it now exists, I must carry 
you back to the time of the late celebrated and unhappy favourite, 
count Struensee. I have made it my endeavour, since my arrival 
here, to gain the most authentic and unprejudiced intelligence- 
respecting him, and the late extraordinary revolution, which ex- 
pelled a queen from her throne and kingdom, and brought the 
ministers to the scaffold. 

I shall only mention some few anecdotes, which elucidate his 
character, and with which many may be acquainted; though, as 
I never perused the printed account of his life, and trial, which 
appeared in England, I must be excused if I repeat what is con- 
tained there. 

Struensee had not any noble blood in his veins, nor consequent- 
ly, any hereditary and prescriptive title to the immediate guid- 
ance of affairs of state. Fortune, and a train of peculiar circum- 
stances, coinciding with his own talents and address, seem to have 
drawn him from his native mediocrity of condition, and placed 
him in an elevated rank. He originally practised physick at Al- 
(bna, on the Elbe, and afterwards attended the present king of 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 7# 

Denmark on his travels into England, in quality of physician. On 
his return, he advanced by rapid strides in the royal favour, and 
seems to have eminently possessed the power of pleasing, since 
he became equally the favourite of both the king and queen. He 
was invested with the order of St. Matilda, instituted in honour 
of her majesty, created a count, and possessed unlimited minis- 
terial power. His conduct, in this sudden and uncommon emi- 
nence, marks a bold and daring mind; perhaps I might add, an 
expanded and patriotic heart. Unawed by the precarious tenure 
of courtly greatness, and more peculiarly of his own, he began a 
general reform The state felt him through all her members. 

The finances, chancery, army, navy, nobles, peasants all were 

sensible ot his influence. He not only dictated, but penned his 
replies to every important question or despatch; and a petition, 
or a scheme of public import and utility, rarely waited two hours 
for an answer. At present, T am told, you may be two months 
without receiving any. The civil judicature of this capital, was 
then vested in thirty magistrates. Struensee sent a message to 
this tribunal, demanding to know the annual salary or pension 
annexed to each member. Rather alarmed at this enquiry, they 
sent an answer, in which they diminished their emoluments two 
thirds, and estimated them at 1500, instead of 4000 rix dollars. 
The count then informed them, that his majesty had no farther 
occasion for their services; but in his royal munificence and liber- 
ality, was graciously pleased to continue to them, the third part 
of the avowed incomes, as a proof of his satisfaction with their 
conduct. He at the same time constituted another court, compos^ 
ed only of six persons, of approved integrity, to whom the same 
power was delegated. He proceeded to purge the chancery, and 
other bodies of law. Then entering on the military department, 
he, at one stroke, broke all the horse-guards, and afterwards the 
regiment of Norwegian foot-guards, the finest corps of the ser- 
vice, and who were not disbanded without a short, but very dan- 
gerous sedition. Still proceeding in this salutary, but most crit- 
ical and perilous achievement, he ultimately began to attempt a 
diminution of the power of the nobles, and to set the farmers and 
peasants at perfect liberty. We must not, therefore, wonder that 
he fell a victim to such measures, and that all parties joined in 
his destruction. These were his real crimes, and not that he was 
too acceptable to the queen, which only formed a pretext. It 
was the minister, and not the man, who had become obnoxious. 
I do not pretend, in the latter capacity, either to excuse or con- 
demn him; but as a politician, I rank him with the Clarendons 
and the Mores, whom tyranny, or public baseness, and want of 
virtue have brought, in almost every age, to an untimely and ig- 
nominious exit; but to whose memory, impartial posterity have 
done ample justice. Yet I must avow, that though I cannot 
think Sferuerisee made a fesed «se, he certainly made a violent 88,«i 
10 



%± THE FLOWERS OF 

imprudent one, of his extensive power. Ho seems, it' one may 
judge from his actions, to have been in some measure, intoxicated 
with royal favour, and such accumulated honours, and not to 
have adverted sufficiently, to the examples which history furnishes 
of Wolseys in former days, and of Choiseuls in modern times, who 
jmost strikingly evince the slippery foundation of political gran- 
deur. When he was even pressed, only a short time before his 
Seizure, to withdraw from court, and pass the Belts, with the 
most ample security for his annual remitment of forty, fifty, a 
hundred thousand dollars, an unhappy facination detained him, in 
defiance of every warning, and reserved him for the prison and 
the block. The Queen Dowager, and Prince Frederick, were 
only the feeble instruments to produce this catastrophe, as being 
by their rank, immediately about the person ol the sovereign; 
though common report has talked loudly of the former's intrigue, 
and attributed it to her imaginary abilities. The only mark of 
capacity or address they exhibited, was in preserving a secrecy, 
which deluded Struensee and the queen Matilda, till the time of 
their being arrested. I have been assured, that on the last levee 
day preceeding this event, the count was habited with uncommon 
magnificence, and never received greater homage, or court ser- 
vility from the crowd, than when on the verge of ruin. On the 
night fixed for his seizure, there was a bul pare in the palace; 
the queen after dancing as usual, one country dance with the 
king, gave her hand to Struensee during the rest of the evening. 
She retired about two in the morning, and was followed by him 
and count Brandt. The moment was now come. The Queen 
Dowager, and her son, Prince Frederick, hastened to the king's 
private chamber, where he was already in bed. They kneeled 
down beside it, and implored him with tears and expostulations 
to save himself and Denmark, from impending destruction, by ar- 
resting those whom they called the authors of it. 'Tis said, the 
king was not easily induced to sign the order, but did it with 
reluctance and hesitation. At length their entreaties prevailed, 
and he fixed his sign manual to the paper. Colonel Koller Ban- 
ner instantly repaired to Struensee's apartment, which, as well 
as Brant's, was in the palace; they were both seized nearly at the 
same instant, and, as all defence was vain, hurried away imme- 
diately to the citadel. When count Struensee stepped out of 
the coach, he said with a smile to the commandant, "I believe 
you are not a little surprised at seeing me brought here a prison- 
er." "No, an't please your excellency," replied the old officer, 
bluntly; "I am not at all surprised; but, on the contrary, have 
long expected you." It was five o'clock in the morning, when 
the count Rantzau came to the door of her majesty's ante-cham- 
ber, and knocked for admittance. One of the Women about the 
queen's person, was ordered to wake her, and give her informa- 
th»a that .she, was arrested. They then put her into one of the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 75 

king's coaches, drove her down to the Elsinore, and shut her up 
in the castle of Cronsberg. 

Meanwhile, as they dreaded an insurrection in Copenhagen, 
every military precaution was taken to prevent it. The most in- 
famous and silly reports, were circulated among the populace, to 
rend-er the state prisoners odious: that they had put. poison in the 
king's coffee to destroy him; that they intended to declare him 
incapable of governing, to send the dowager, queen Juliana out of 
the kingdom, as well as her son, prince Frederick, and proclaim 
Matilda regent. To confirm these extraordinary and contradict 
tory reports, the king himself and his brother appeared in a state 
coach, and paraded through the streets of the city, to show himself 
unhurt, and as if escaped from the most, horrid conspiracy. 

During these transactions, Struensee and Brandt, were detain- 
ed in the most rigorous imprisonment. They loaded the former 
with very heavy chains about his arms and legs, and he was at 
the same time fixed to the wall by an iron bar. I have seen the 
room, which is not above ten or twelve feet square, with a lit- 
tle bed in it, and a miserable iron stove. Yet here, in this abode 
of misery, did he, though chained, complete with a pencil, an 
account of his life and conduct as a minister, which is penned, as I 
have been assured, with uncommon genius. A tribunal was ap- 
pointed for the trial of the queen and the two counts, and a coun- 
cil assigned for each, to preserve an appearance of justice and 
equity. All the world know the result, and the winding up of 
the whole, on the 28th of April, 1772. I shall, however mention 
some particulars relative to count Brandt, as they are very re- 
markable and equally true; nor do I apprehend that many in En- 
gland have ever heard them. 

This unfortunate man rose chiefly under Struensee's auspices, 
though he was originally of an honourable descent. During a 
residence which the court made at one of the royal palaces, that 
of Heresholm, it happened that his majesty quarrelled with Brandt, 
and, which was singular enough, challenged him. This the 
count declined. When they met soon after, the king repeated 
his defiance; called him a coward; and Brandt still behaving with 
temper, as became a subject, he thrust his hand into his mouth, 
seized his tongue, and had very nearly choaked him. In this 
situation, can it be wondered at, that he should bite the king's 
linger, or strike him, or both? Self preservation must necessarily 
supercede every othei feeling at such a moment, and plead his 
pardon. By Struensee's mediation the quarrel, was immediate- 
ly made up, and the king promised never more to remember or 
resent the circumstance of his striking him.- Yet was this blow 
given to preserve himself from- imminent destruction, and from 
the fury of an enraged man, made the pretence forjiis condemna- 
tion. They said, he had lifted his hand against the king's sacred 
person, which was death by the laws of Denmark. His lawyer,- 



76 THE FLOWERS OF 

I am told, made an excellent defence for him, and very forcibly 
remarked the essential difference between assaulting the sove- 
reign, and defending himself from a private attack. "One of our 
former monarchs, said he, (Christian V.) was used frequently to 
unbend himself among his nobles. On these occasions, it was 
his custom to say, 'The king is not at home.' All the courtiers 
then behaved with the utmost freedom and familiarity, unres- 
trained by the royal presence. When he chose to resume his 
kingly dignity, he said, 'The king is again at home.' But what, 
added he, must we do now, when the king is never at home?" 
This seems more like the speech of an Englishman than a Dane, 
and breaths a manly and unfettered spirit. 

The skulls and bones of these unhappy mcir, are yet exposed 
on wheels, about a mile and a half out of town. I have viewed 
them with mingled commiseration and horror. They hold up an 
awful and affecting lesson for future statesmen. 

I have been assured, that Strucnsee resigned himself to his 
own sentence without murmuring, or attempting to depricate the 
blow; but that he expressed the utmost pity and abhorrence at 
the flagrant injustice committed in sentencing count Brandt to 
the same death. They have portraits of Struensee in all the 
shops, with this motto round him: "Mala multa Struens-se ipsum 
perdidit." You see it is a miserable sort of pun upon his name. 
Yet, in defiance of all the calumnies of a triumphant party, the 
terrors of a de:spotic government, and the natural reserve among 
the people, there are, even here, who dare to speak, though am- 
biguously, their genuine sentiments. "Sir," said a man of sense 
and honour to me, a few day3 since, "between ourselves, all is 
not as it should be; we have at present, neither king nor minis- 
ter. An imbecilliiy mingled with disorder, characterizes our 
government. The effects are too visible. The blue and white 
ribbons are prostituted and contemptible. The finances are in a 
worse state than when Struensee found them. The army de- 
vour us. In Norway, affairs are yet worse. The king is un- 
popular there, and so little is his authority respected, that the 
Norwegians have refused, and still refuse, to pay the capitation 
tax; nor can it be levied among them." I have not amplified, or 
exaggerated in this picture, which 1 really believe is too just in 
most of the particulars. The king has certainly suffered much 
in his intellectual capacity, and they make very little scruple in 
general to own it. He can play indeed at cards; he can dance, 
or go to an opera.; but he is doubtless in a state of debility, which 
disqualifies him for the conducting or superintending affairs of 
national import, and public consequence. These are left to the 
ministers, who tread very cautiously, and will not presently pro- 
secute Struensee's patriotic measures. His fall is too recent, nor 
have his bones yet returned to their parent earth. There is a 
Vacuity in the king's aspect, which is strongly marked; and he i? 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 77 

much paler and thinner than when he was on his tour in England. 
The queen dowager and prince Frederick live in the palace with 
him, and accompany him, like his shadow, wherever he moves. 
The prince has received no other mark of bounty from nature or 
fortune, than l^al birth. He is very much deformed; and this 
personal imperfection has gained him the appellation of Richard 
III. among those who do not love the court, though it doubtless 
originated among the English. Wraxall. 



SECTION XXVI. 
Of Stockholm. J2. D. \114. 

AS I approached to this capital, the country appeared more 
rocky, barren, and desert; and at the distance of a single mile 
from it, one is tempted to suppose one's-self in the most unfre- 
quented and desolate wild. Nothing marks the vicinity of a 
great metropolis. Agriculture cannot exert her powers, nor la- 
bour produce harvests, where nature has denied the means. The 
eye discerns nothing on every side, except firs and rugged rocks; 
and it would seem as if famine had here fixed her eternal resi- 
dence. 

I entered Stockholm, over a floating bridge of a very consider- 
able length, across the river. I was, indeed, stopt .at the gates; 
but policy, and not religion, was the cause. 

I am lodged at present, close to the palace; and, as my land- 
lord informs me, in the very apartment where his grace, the arch- 
bishop of Upsal resided, during six months, previous to the coro- 
nation of his present majesty, which office, he performed. You 
will perhaps, suppose from this, that -they are very elegant; that 
the hangings are of tapestry, and the chairs covered with velvet. 
Nothing less so, I assure you! A monk of La Trappe might al- 
most occupy them without any infringement of his vow of morti- 
fication; and though 1 pay a ducat and a half, or fourteen shil- 
lings, a week, I was scarce ever so indifferently lodged in any city 
of Europe. The quality which induced the archbishop to take 
them, was, no doubt, their neighbourhood to the palace. It 
would be difficult to discover any other to recommend them 

I cannot say that I have found many charms as yet in this city. 
The court are all in the country, at their respective palaces, and 
there is only one public diversion during the week, which is a 
Swedish opera. What kind of an entertainment this is, and how 
far the language is capable of musical beauty, I am not yet a judj?;e, 
as there was no representation last Thursday, which is the night 
when they usually perform. For want, therefore, of other avo- 
cation, I have wandered over every part of the metropolis, and 
taken different views of it from the numerous eminences which 



$$ THE FLOWERS Of 

surround if. Perhaps I may be accused of presumption, when 1 
assert, that in almost every point of view, the situation of Stock- 
holm is injudicious and improper for the capital ol the kingdom, 
Policy, plenty, and commerce, seem all to dictate another part of 
S.veden, as much more eligible. I shall endeavour to justify my 
opinion by a few remarks. 

.The inhabitants themselves assure me, that the place owed its 
original, only about three centuries ago, to an accidental contin- 
gency. The viceroy, who at that time governed the country un- 
der Christian II. of Denmark, determined to found a city, and 
instead of fixing on a proper spot, for the execution of his plan, 
he very wisely set a large piece. of wood afloat, clown the Meller 
lake, and resolved that at whatever place it should stop, there to 
build his projected town. A small island arrested the stick in its 
progress, raid the name of Stockholm is said to have been given 
it from this circumstance. 

I was shown the exact point of land where tradition says it 
happened, and where the first buildings of the city were erected. 
However this be, it was hardly possible to have found a more 
barren desert, or a less inviting situation, in almost all respects. 
Even the river has a number of inconveniences, as it winds in a 
surprising manner, and having no tides, ships must have a fair 
wind to reach the town; and should it be contrary, it is absolute- 
ly impossible. If I pointed out that part of Sweden, which ap- 
pears to me designed by nature and wisdom for the foundation of 
a capital, I should mention Carlscrone. Its centrical situation 
between Copenhagen and Petersburg; its vicinity to Pomerania 
and Germany; the fertile province of Scania, accounted the finest 
in Sweden, behind it; a port capable of containing the whole fleet, 
and in which they are at this time always stationed; its climate 
more mild and southern than that of Stockholm, by some degrees; 
all these circumstances seem to leave an unprejudiced person, lit- 
tle room to dispute its more advantageous situation. 

There is somewhat uncommonly savage and inhospitable, in the 
whole circumjacent country here. Even in this lovely season, 
when all animate and inanimate nature wakes from the long slum- 
ber of a polar winter, every thing is joyless and unfertile, and 
the rays of the sun are reflected from the expanse of stone which 
invests the city round on every side, and from whose bosom no 
verdure springs, to regale the eye. I repeat instinctively, as 1 
gaze around, the celebrated lines in Churchill's Prophecy of Fa- 
mine, which, however exaggerated they may be for the country 
he intended to paint, are almost strictly and literally true here: 
nor am I surprised to find a Christian flying from these uncivil- 
ized and unlettered regions, to the abodes of art and elegance. 

This kingdom has, however, been more productive of immor- 
tal and sublime spirits, than all the others of the north. I feel 
myself affected with a reverential awe, as I walk through the 



CELEBRATE© TRAVELLERS'. 79 

cknreh where repose the great names of Gustavus Adolphus, of 
Torstenson, of Baner, and Charles XII. I tread with decent hu- 
mility over the vaults where their hodies are interred, and find 
a melancholy satisfaction in surveying the marble raised to their 
deathless fame. 

I have conversed several times since my arrival here, with 
Swedes, on the subject of the victories and death of the last of 
these heroes. They are almost unanimous in the apprehension, 
or rather avowal, that he was put to death by those about him, and 
did not fall by a shot from the walls of Frederickshall, as is 
commonly supposed. As every circumstance relative to the fall 
of so extraordinary a man, interests, and as there seems great 
reason to imagine he did not die by the chance of war, I hope 
I shall not give offence, if I am somewhat minute on this ar- 
ticle. 

Monsieur Voltaire has taken great pains to prove the contrary, 
and to vindicate the engineer who accompanied him, at the time, 
from so foul a suspicion. I, however, think his reasons very 
apocryphal, and even some of the facts he relates, as rather tend- 
ing to give rise to an opposite conclusion. "The king," says he, 
"walked out to view the state of the advances made by his forces; 
it was night. He kneeled down, the better to inspect them, and 
leaned his head on his hands. In this attitude, amid the darkness, 
he received a ball into his temple, and fell on the parapet, fetch- 
ing a deep sigh. He was dead in an instant; but in that instant 
he had yet force and courage to put his hand to his sword, and 
lay in that posture. Merget, a French engineer, immediately 
said with a coolness, which distinguished his character, 'The play 
is over, let us begone!' " I quote by memory, and therefore ask 
Voltaire's pardon if I do not exactly and literally relate it, as he 
has given it to the world; but nothing material is added or 
omitted. 

The Swedes allow most of these circumstances to bo true, though 
they infer very differently. Is. it, say they, probable, that a ball 
from the fort, fired at random, and in the night, should so exact- 
ly enter the king's brain? Or, is it not much more natural to be- 
lieve, that a pistol from some nearer hand, gave so well-aimed 
and decisive a blow! His attitude indicated an intention of de- 
fence from some nearer attack; nor would he have laid hjs hand on 
his sword to resist a cannon shot. 

Merget's remark was such, as one can with difficulty suppose 
any one to make on so disastrous and unexpected an event, as 
the king's death, and seems rather that of a pre-sentiment of the 
winding up of this bloody catastrophe. Add to thi^ A ' 
Swedes were tired of a prince, under whom tb~ 
richest provinces, their bravest troops, their > 
who yet untamed by adversity, pursue' 1 
nicious war, noy wou^d. ever ha T 



$0 TIIK FLOWERS df 1 

or consulted the eternal tranquillity of his country. Baron Gortz's 
oppressions, superadded to these, were intolerable; and no re- 
source remained unless to despatch the king. It was a very fa- 
vourable oppoitunity, and was improved to the utmost. The 
prince of Hesse, his brother-in-law, made little enquiry into the 
affair, and all passed without noise or tumult. 

I have been more inclined to give credit to this relation of 
Charles's death, from my own remarks on his dress. In the arse- 
nal they preserve with great care, the clothes he was habited in at 
the time he fell. These I have examined very minutely. The 
coat is a plain blue cloth regimental one, such as every common 
soldier wore. Round the waist he had a broad buff-leaiher belt, 
in which hung his sword. The hat is torn only about an inch 
square, in that part of it which lies over the temple, and certain-^ 
ly would have been much more injured by a large shot. His 
gloves are made of very fine leather, and as the left one is per- 
fectly clean and unsoiled, could only have been newly put on, 
The right hand glove is covered in the inside with blood; and the 
belt, at the part where the handle or hilt of his sword lay, is 
likewise bloody; so that it seems clear, he had previously put his 
hand to his head on receiving the blow, before he attempted to 
draw his sword, and make resistance. However, as he expired 
in the instant, no absolute inference can be made; and after hav- 
ing exhausted conjecture, we must draw a veil over this ambigu- 
ous and dark transaction, and rest contented with that ignorance, 
and uncertainty, which so often waits on the death of sovereigns. 
Dr. Johnson has drawn the most finished and masterly portrait of 
this extraordinary man, which ever fell from the pen of genius. 
The four concluding lines describe his death. 

"His fall was destin'd to a barren strand, 

"A petty fortress, and a dubious hand; 

•'He left the name at which the world grew pale, 

"To point a moral, or adorn a tale." 

Wraxalx. 

SECTION XXVII. 

Of Petersburg. A. B. 1774. 

THIS great capital, though only a creation of the present cen- 
tury has already grown to a vast size, and contains infinitely 
higher matter of entertainment and instruction, than either of those 
f rom whence I am lately come. I am struck with a pleasing as- 
* while I wonder among havens, streets, and public 
have risen as by enchantment, within the memo 
live, and have converted the marshy islands 
~* magnificent cities of the earth. The 
visible objects, rises to the won- 



Celebrated travellers. 81 

drous founder, and beholds in idea, the tutelary genius of Peter, 
yet hovering over the child of his own production, and viewing 
with a parent's fondness, its rising palaces and temples. The 
names, on which ancient story dwells with so much fondness, 
sink on a comparison with this immortal man, and the fabulous 
legislators of Greece and Egypt, never presumed to attempt the 
mighty transformation which ihe Czar completed. The followers 
of Cadmus, of Thesius, and of Romulus, were animated with the 
ardour as their leader; but the Muscovites, wrapt in the most pro- 
found barbarism, secluded by their illiberal prejudices from an 
intercouse with European nations, and equally the slaves of su- 
perstition and long prescription, were forcibly torn from this night 
of ignorance, and compelled to accept of knowledge, of refine- 
ment, and of civilization. I must own, I never consider this 
so recent and so wondrous an event, without being hurried 
away by an enthusiasm I cannot avoid feeling, and from which I 
now return^ to give an imperfect description of the festivities to 
which I have been a witness during my stay here, and from which 
I am only just returned. 

I had the pleasure to accompany sir Robert Gunning, last Sa« 
turday to the palace of Peterhoff, where the empress at present 
resides. It was the anniversary of her accession, when there is 
generally a very brilliant court. As we arrived early, I had an 
opportunity of viewing the gardens before her majesty's appear- 
ance. They are very extensive, lying along the shore of the 
gulph of Finland, and washed by its waters. In the midst of 
them stands the palace itself, situate on an eminence, and com- 
manding a fine view. The apartments are all very splendid; 
but my attention was chiefly engrossed by the drawing-room, 
where hung five matchless portraits of the sovereigns of Russia. 
They are all length pieces, but by what master I cannot say. 
Peter himself is first, and opposite to him appears the Livonian 
villager, whom he raised from a cottage to the most unbounded 
sovereignty. I stood for some moments under this painting in 
silent admiration of the woman, who had passed from so humble 
a station, to an imperial diadem, of which her genius, her fidelity, 
and her virtue made her worthy. She is drawn by the painter as 
in middle life; her eyes and her hair black, her countenance open, 
smiling, and ingratiating, and her person not exceeding the mid- 
dle size. The empress Anne and Elizabeth fill their respective 
places in this apartment, but did not long detain me from a por- 
trait of the reigning sovereign, which is of a singular kind. She 
is habited in the Russian uniform, booted, and sits astride on a 
white horse In her hat is the oaken bough, which "^" 
the memorable revolution, which placed her o" 
which was likewise taken by all her adherent 
floats in disorder down her back; ar' 1 " 
natural effect of the fatigue ond 
designed. It is a faithful an r1 
11 



S3 TIIE FLOWERS OF 

person, as she appeared twelve years ago, when she came to Pe- 
terhoff, and seized the throne of Russia. 

While my eyes were ri vetted to this picture, and my thoughts 
employed on the melancholy catastrophe of the unhappy empe- 
ror which so soon followed, the empress's entrance was announced. 
She was preceded by a long train of lords and gentlemen. I 
felt a pleasure corrected with awe, as I gazed on this extraordi- 
nary woman, whose vigour and policy, without any right of blood, 
has seated, and maintains her in the throne of the Czars. Though 
she is now become rather corpulent, there is a dignity tempered 
with graciousness in her deportment and manner, which strik- 
ingly impresses. She was habited in the deep blue silk with 
gold stripes, and her hair ornamented with diamonds. After the 
foreign ministers had paid her the customary compliments on this 
day, I had the honour to be presented, and to kiss her hand. The 
grand duke and duchess of Russia, followed the empress, who 
continued scarce a minute in the circle, but set down at the card 
table. 

There is not only a magnificence and regal pomp in this court, 
which far exceeds any I have beheld elsewhere, but every thing 
is on a vast and colossal scale, resembling that of the empire it- 
self. The public buildings, churches, monasteries, and private 
palaces of the nobility, are of an immense size; and seem as if 
designed for creatures of a superior height and dimensions to man; 
"to a puny insect shivering at the breeze!" 

The statue and pedestal which will soon be set up, of Peter the 
Great, are of the same enormous and gigantic proportions, and 
may almost rank with the sphinxes and the pyramids of Egyp- 
tian workmanship. At Moscow, I am told, this style is yet more 
common, and more universal. The palace which the present 
empress has begun, is designed to be two or three English miles 
in circumference; and in the mean time they have erected a tem- 
porary one of brick, for her reception. The city itself, is an im- 
mense aggregate of villages, and the Muscovite lords commonly 
go fifty or sixty versts, which is at least fort)' of our miles, to 
make visits to each other. There is a sort of savage and barbar- 
ous grandeur in this taste, which never appears in the edifices and 
productions of Athenian sculpture. I know it may be said, that 
the difference of extent and greatness between the little republic 
of Attica, and the wide empire of Russia, may give rise to a dif- 
ferent standard of beauty and elegance; but this is not sufficient 
to alter the original and invariable criterion of nature, which li- 
the same in every country. 

Petersburg is as yet only an immense outline, which will re- 
empresses, and. almost future ages to complete. It 
on a prodigious extent of ground; but as the 
'ts are not contiguous, and great spaces are left 
'N real size and magnitude. De- 
her magnificence, and to erect 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 83 

places of worship in almost every part. Curiosity and novelty 
have carried me to all of them. The external architecture differs 
very little in any. The Greeks seems as fond of domes, as the 
"Mahometans are of minarets in their churches. They usually 
encircle one large with four smaller cupolas, and cover them with 
copper, gilt, which has a fine effect to the eye, when the sun 
shines upon it. The ornaments within, are costly and barb. rous. 
A Mexican temple can hardly be more so. They surround a 
daubing of the Virgin and Jesus, with gold or silver head-dresses, 
and sometimes complete habits, and only leave exposed, the fin- 
gers, which the multitude very devoutly kiss. The papas or 
priests are dressed in vestments which very much resemble the*' 
Romish, and are generally composed of tissue and expensive silks. 
The manner in which they perform the service, rather reminds 
one of an incantation, than of a prayer offered to the Deity; and 
they repeat much of it so incredibly fast, that one is tempted to 
suppose it impossible the auditory can understand one articulate 
word the priest utters, let their attention be ever so strong. 

In the church of the citadel, repose the body of Peter I. and the 
successive sovereigns since his death, who are ranged in coffers, 
side by side, but have not any of them marble monuments erect- 
ed to their memories: nor is there any other motive to induce a 
traveller to enter this church, except the consciousness that he 
beholds the wood which contains the ashes of Peter, and that 
mingled sentiment of reverence and pleasure, which the mind 
may experience from the contemplation of it. Only one monarch 
is excluded, as if unworthy to be entombed with his progenitors 
and predecessors in the throne of Russia. This is the late unhap- 
py Peter III. who, after his death, was exposed during some days, 
in the monastery of St. Alexander Newfskoi, a few miles out of 
town, to convince the people that he had 'not suffered any vio- 
lence, but ended his life naturally. He was afterwards privately 

interred there. As I have mentioned his name, I am led to 

make a £ew remarks on his life and character. Though under 
the present reign it may be imagined, that few persons either 
dare or choose to speak their sentiments freely with respect to 
him, yet I am induced to believe from universal testimony, that 
he was very unworthy and unfit to reign, and that whatever pri- 
vate condemnation the empress,' as his wife, may undergo, it was 
a most salutary and requisite policy for Russia to depose him. 
He brought to Petersburg all the illiberal and pernicious preju- 
dices of a German; he avowed his open contempt for their re- 
ligion, their manners, their laws; he was on the point of com- 
mencing a war with Denmark, for the recovery of his Holstein 
dominions, and would have begun his march across the immense 
track of country which separates these kingdoms, in a few days; 
he had personally ill-treated his wife, and alienated by h^is im- 
prudence and folly, every heart. The vigour and celerity with 



84 THE FLOWERS OF 

which the empress acted, in effecting the revolution, could only 
be exceeded by the pusillanimity and meanness with which Peter 
resigned the crown. He was himself, on the day which preced- 
ed this event, at the palace of Oranienbaum, and totally unpre;- 
pared for such a change, of which he entertained no suspicion. 
She departed from Peterhoff, where she then was, by a postern 
door in the gardens, very early in the morning, prince Orloff 
conducting her in his coach, and reached Petersburg before her 
absence was known. She instantly took possession of the palace, 
without difficulty or opposition, and putting herself in an uni- 
form at the head of the guards, marched towards PetcrholT. As 
soon as the emperor received this intelligence, he embarked im- 
mediately from Oranienbaum, which is situate on the shore of the 
gulph of Finland, in one of the imperial yachts, in hopes to reach 
Cronstadt, which is nearly opposite, and in the fortress of which 
he would have been secure. Here, however, he was disappoint- 
ed, as the empress had already anticipated his intention, and dis- 
patched two admirals, who secured it. When he came near the 
fortress, they ordered him to keep off, or they would sink him, 
and at the same time pointed the guns for that purpose. Besides, 
his mistress, the countess of Voronzoff. he had a number of wo- 
men and attendants in the vessel with him. Terrified with the 
appearance of opposition, the} 7 knelt round him, and rent the 
air with their cries, 1o induce him to relinquish his purpose: ef- 
fectively he did so, and yielding to his own fears, and their im- 
portunities, he had not the courage to attempt to land, but re- 
turned back to Oranienbaum. It proved afterwards that these 
guns were not loaded. The old Felt-Marechal Count Munich, 
"who had been newly recalled from his long exile in Siberia, was 
with him at this critical emergency, and gave him the only ad- 
vice which could possibly have saved him. He implored him to go 
boldly and meet the empress, to charge the guards, on their allegi- 
ance to obey his order as their sovereign, and offered to lose his 
own life in his defence. Peter had not sufficient magninimity 
and greatness of mind, either to perceive the absolute necessity 
of this conduct, or to embrace it instantly. On the contrary, 
consulting with his terrors, he threw himself on the ground be- 
fore the empress, in the gardens of Oranienbaum, covering his 
face with both his hands, burst into all the impotence of tears, and 
only implored, in terms of the most abject submission, that his life 
might be spared, and his paternal dominions of Holstein assigned 
him. She commanded him to rise, and conducted him to the 
palace of Peterhoff, where he signed a paper, by which he re- 
signed all power, into her hands. Meanwhile covered wagons 
were provided, which took different roads, that it might not be 
known in which was the deposed prince; and this mighty re- 
volution, which transferred the greatest empire on earth, was 
effected in a few hours, almost without any confusion or uproar. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 85 

The people accustomed to despotism, and indifferent who was the 
ruler, remained silent and quiet spectators of it, the guards being 
the only actors, and the whole a repetition of the princess Eliza- 
beth's conduct some years before, when young Ivan was depos- 
ed, and she seized the throne. Over the rest of this mourn- 
ful .story we must draw a veil. Such a prisoner, it is natural 
to suppose, could not long remain in that condition. On the ninth 
day consequent to his seizure, it was reported he had a disorder 
in his bowels, and soon after, his death was announced. We 
know no more. History, in some future age, may possibly 
elucidate his end; but in this century it is not likely such a se- 
cret, will be divulged. 

Though I would not, however, indirectly appear the apoligist 
of crimes, yet justice requires I should say, that it is universally 
allowed, the empress might plead self-defence, if not even self- 
preservation, to justify her conduct, as it is known that Peter 
had concerted and would have carried into execution the most 
severe measures against her, if he had not been prevented by so 
vigorous an attack. If we add to this, the uniform tenor of her 
life and reign since that asra, during which, humanity and wisdom 
seems scarce ever to have forsaken her, candour will, perhaps, be 
induced to pass over one spot, which state-policy rendered neces*- 
sary, and which, from the moment of her resistance, became una- 
voidable. W RAX ALL. 



SECTION XXVIII. 
Of Bremen. A. D. 1774. 

THIS is a great city, a rich city, and a commercial one; But 
I cannot say I think it very agreeable, or that it contains much 
to gain a traveller's attention. Was human life of the double 
limits nature has assigned to it, one should not be tempted to visit 
it more than once. It must, however, be confessed, I saw it to 
some disadvantage, not being provided with letters of introduc- 
tion, as I had not intended to have included it in the plan of my 
tour. By the help, however, of my landlord, to whose good of- 
fices necessity has made me a debtor, I have seen every thing 
deserving attention here, and shall leave it this afternoon per- 
fectly well satisfied with my stay. One of these has appear- 
ed to me so extraordinary, and in itself, I apprehend, so very 
singular, that if I had not been an eye-witness of it, no testimony 
would have convinced me of its reality; and if it was not of such 
a nature as to be universally examined, I should fear the world 
would doubt my veracity. 

I always apprehended that human bodies after death, if inter- 
red, or exposed to the air, without any preparation to defend 



86 THE FLOWERS OF 

m 

them from the attacks of it, would of necessity corrupt, become 
offensive, and putrify. The art of embalming is very ancient, 
and was invented to preserve them from this inevitable consequence 
of death; but that they may remain unputrid for centuries with- 
out any sort of artificial aid, I have seen so incontcstibly proved 
since my arrival, that I imagine not the shadow of doubt can re- 
main about it. 

Under the cathedral church is a vaulted apartment, supported 
on pillars; it is near sixty paces long, and half as many broad. 
The light and air are constantly admitted into it by three windows, 
though it is several feet beneath the level of the ground. Here 
are five large oak coffers, rather than coffins, each containing a 
corpse. I examined them severally for near two hours. The 
most curious and perfect is that of a woman. Tradition says she 
was an English countess, who dying here at Bremen, ordered 
her body to be placed in this vault unintcrred, in the apprehen- 
sion that her relations would cause it to be brought # over to her 
native country. They say it has lain here 250 years. Though 
the muscular skin is totally dried in every part, yet so little are 
the features of the face sunk or changed, that nothing is more 
certain than that she was young, and even beautiful. It is a small 
countenance, round in the contour. The cartilage of the nose and 
the nostrils have undergone no alteration. Her teeth are all 
firm in the sockets, but the lips are drawn away from over them. 
The cheeks are shrunk in, but yet less than I ever remember to 
have seen in embalmed bodies. The hair of her head is at this 
time, more than eighteen inches long, very thick, and so fast, 
that I heaved the corpse out of the coffer by it. The color is a 
light brown, and as fresh and glossy, as that of a living person. 
That this lady was of high rank seems evident, from the extreme 
fineness of the linen which covers her body; butl have in vain 
endeavoured to procure any lights into her history, her title, or 
any other particulars, though I have taken no little pains for that 
purpose. The landlord of the inn, who was with me, said he re- 
membered it for forty years past, during which time there is not 
the least perceptible alteration in it. 

In another coffer is the body of a workman, who is said to have 
tumbled off the church, and was killed by the fall. His features 
evince this most forcibly. Extreme agony is marked in them. 
His mouth is wide open, and his eyelids the same. The eyes 
are dried up. His breast is unnaturally distended, and his whole 
frame betrays a violent death. 

A little child who died of the small-pox, is still more remark- 
able. The marks of the pustules, which have broken the skin 
on his hands and head, is very discernable; and one should sup- 
pose that a body which died of such a distemper, must contain ifi 
a high degree the seeds of putrefaction. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS- 87 

The other two corpses are not less extraordinary. There are 
in this vault, likewise, turkeys, hawks, weasels, and other ani- 
mals, which have been hung up here; some, time immemorial, 
some very lately, and are in the most complete preservation; 
the skin, bills, feathers, all unaltered. The cause of this phocnom- 
enon is, doubtless, the dryness of the place where they are laid. 
It is in vain to seek for any other. The magistrates do not per- 
mit that any fresh bodies be brought here, and there is no other 
subterranean chamber which has the same property. It would 
have made an excellent miracle two or three centuries ago in 
proper hands; but now mankind are grown too wise. 

This city is celebrated for its old hock. The wine is all brought 
from the banks of the Rhine, by land carriage, and deposited in 
the public cellars. These are wondrously capacious, running 
beneath the Town-House and Exchange; but are not comparable in 
magnificence to those I have seen at Oeyras in Portugal, belong- 
ing to the Marquis de Pombal, or those of Constantia at the 
Cape of Good Hope. There is one particular room, called the 
Rose, where they keep wine, as they say, of 170 years old, and 
for which .they ask seven dollars, or twenty-five shillings a 
bottle; but it is not fit at this time to drink. 

Bremen stands upon the river WeserT Vessels of burden lie 
twelve of fifteen miles below the city, there not being sufficient 
depth of water higher up. It contains 45,000 inhabitants. It is 
a free city, under the protection of the empire, and styles itself 
a republic on the money struck here. The king of England, as 
elector of Hanover, has, however, some important rights within 
the place; and not only the cathedral belongs to him, but a con- 
siderable number of buildings, public and private. 'He possesses 
likewise, a species of supreme judicatorial power, as though the 
magistrates take cognizance of all crimes within the territory of 
Bremen, his delegate or bailiff must pronounce sentence. The 
fortifications, though kept in very good order, are of no consequence 
or strength. The strongest army in the field is ever master; and 
during the last war, French or English were alternately received 
into the place, as they appeared before it. 

By the municipal laws, all the race of Abraham, is excluded 
from the capacity of trading and residing here; or at least there is 
so high a duty laid on their persons, that a man may remain here 
a century, I suppose, and not see one, it amounting to no less 
than a ducat a day. This exclusion has given rise to a sarcastic 
remark on the inhabitants themselves, which, whether just or not, 
I am no judge. Hamburg has adopted a contrary policy,' and ad- 
mits indiscriminately these people, with European nations. In a 
lucrative view, I know not which may be the wisest measure, 
but certainly the latter is the most generous, and breathes a great- 
er philanthropy. If every government barred its gates to these 
wanderers of Palestine, already labouring under the curse of dis- 



Si THE VLOWEKS OS* 

w 

persion, without leaders, without political strength, where must 
they fly for asylum? Their character, to be sure, as a nation is 
not much in their favour, and I am not at all surprised at their 
ancient passion for idolatry, since there are few of* them, I ima- 
gine, at this time, who would not bow down before a golden calf 
•set up in London or Amsterdam, with as much, devotion, as their 
ancestors did before that in Horeb. The principle, indeed, might, 
be somewhat different, though it has always seemed to me, as 
if the intrinsic value of the first calf constituted the most adora- 
ble part of his divinity, in the opinion of his worshippers; else 
why did not Aaron make him of brass at once? 

Plutus and Mercury are the chief deities venerated in this city, 
and like the senate in Tiberius's time, they will not admit the 
gods of strangers. Pleasure under every shape, of dance, of com- 
edy, of masque, seems peculiarly hateful. She has, indeed, late- 
ly stole in, as my landlord tells me, Once a month during the 
winter, in the form of a concert, to the no little terror of burgo- 
masters, who have endeavoured to proscribe this unprecedented 
refinement. The most polite manner of spending an evening, 
known for several centuries past in Bremen, has been that oi 
meeting in small boxes ^bout twenty feet long and six wide, in 
the public celier, where they drink hock, under a cloud of smoke 
raised from their own pipes. One may swear these are the genu- 
ine descendants of the ancient Saxons, who imagined the joys of 
heaven to consist in drinking ale out of the skulls of their ene- 
mies! Women, the only venial objects of idolatry, seem not here 
to hold any rank in society, or to form the connecting charm 
which binds the jarring principles of human nature together. 
Man, solitary man, meets in clubs and companies, to doze, to 
drink, and to dispute. The very idea is odious and disgusting. 

Wraxall. 



SECTION XXIX. 

Conversation at Courtray in Flanders, with an Impatient 
Passenger for the Departure of a Diligence. 

WHILE I was changing horses, I was peculiarly stricken 
with the singular impatience of a passenger for the departure of 
the diligence. I observed him to intreat his companions, with a 
gentleness and elegant courtesy, to hasten the same; then he flew 
to the landlord, to give his commands to the driver; then to the 
driver himself; then to the stable to see if the horses were har- 
nessed; then to the gateway, biting his nails, and walking back- 
wards and forwards, much agitated. His countenance was ur- 
gently thoughtful; his complexion livid; his eyes sunk into his 
head, and over arched with a large circular and black brow; his 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 59 

-if 

look altogether seemed hagged through fatigue, and an inward 
dejection which preyed upon him. I judged him to be about five 
and thirty years of age. He was genteel; above the common 
in his manner, but very negligently attired. In short, his ap- 
pearance touched me home, and awakened my curiosity. 

Mon Dieu! cried the Flemish Whip, that there was a little 
more patience in the world. — It would be a six sous out of your 
pocket, if there was, I thought within myself; for I observed the 
impatient passenger to give him that little sum, as a stimulus to 
accelerate his motions 

A difficulty arose, which increased the passenger's impatience 
beyond all bounds. He was almost mad with disappointment; 
for as the diligence was preparing to set off, a female passenger 
was unfortunately missing, who, having some business in the 
town, absented herself tiM the usual time of its departure; and 
now the driver declared that it was impossible to set off before 
the clock struck a certain hour, the stated time for its departure, 
unless Madame arrived. 

My barouche was, at this instant, drawing up to the door; and 
as curiosity was fermenting just as strong in me, as impatience in 
the passenger, I offered him a seat in it; concluding Ghent was 
his next station. 

There was a polite gratitude in the manner with which he ac- 
companied his simple thanks; and he flew like an arrow to the 
diligence, snatching out of it a small valise. We ascended our 
vehicle, and it moved in time to the impetuosity of my com- 
panion's wishes. A cloud of melancholy soon overshadowed his 
countenance; his eyes were immoveably fixed, and thought seem- 
ed busy within him. This torpor continued upon him the great- 
est part of our stage to Ghent, excepting, that now and then, it 
was broken by a few polite expressions, to convince me of the 
greatness of his obligations. 

I could not avoid puzzling my brain about the character of this 
man; turning in my head over and over, the motives that could 
possibly ferment such great impatience to arrive at the end of 
his journey. 

There was education in his look; which made me address him 
with, 

"Auram per meclios ire satellites 
"Et perrumpere amat faxa potentiug 
'•Ictu fulmineo 

But your present had not the power to procure the departure, 
of the diligence. Horace is certainly right, answered my com- 
panion; the bribe was only of silver; the power of gold, doubless, 
would have conquered the driver's scruples about the lady: he 
would have driven off without her. But when a man is in haste, 
I replied, he should not travel in a Flemish diligence. But this, 
says my companion, is the only convenience, when our bad fpr- 
12 



9.0 THE FLOWERS OF 

tune will not permit us to purchase a more expeditious one. 
Pour moi les denicrs me manque; I am as poor as a church mouse, 
and this is another reason for my wishing to be at the end of my 
journey; where, God be thanked! I should have — Yes, says my 
stranger, making a reflective pause, and repeating the words, "I 
should have some of this world's trifles " — Here he turned up 
his eyes with a groan, shrugged up his shoulders, and pressed his 

hands on his knees 

And why that piteous, miserable look? — thy home, and this 
world's comforts too! — yet this drew forth, 

< — "A sigh so hideous and profound, 
•'That it did seem to shatter all his bulk, 
"And end his being 

It is unique, I thought, that of all the Frenchman I ever met 
with in my life, the natural character of the nation should pre-, 
vail so little in my fellow traveller; barring the shrug of the shoul- 
der, and the wan meagre countenance, there Was nothing Gallic in 
him. The French, even in the most awful periods of their dis- 
tress, discover certain intervals, in which the traits of their na- 
tive cheerfulness, are conspicuous; but the spirit of my compa- 
nion seemed enveloped in an endless gloom. 

The subjects we conversed on, were not much diversified, and 
rather confined to the classics. He seemed well read, and his re- 
marks were tinctured with judgment. In the course of that na- 
tural and innocent vanity, of displaying our little store of learn- 
ing, I could not suppress the effect which the eighth Ode of Horace 
had upon me, which my companion repeated with no small de- 
gree of energy. He said it was his favourite Ode, when he was 
once in love. It was like the protasis of ancient drama to me, 
where the subject of the piece became entertaining. It suspended 
for some time our conversation, and proved a most powerful ad- 
vocate for the remantic feelings I was brooding upon. Aye, says I, 

"Cur neque militaris 

"Inter jequales equitet, Gallica ncc lupatis 

"Temp ere t ora frxnis? 

As I live, this is a person above the common rank of people; 
whom love, at a particular period of his life, has cruelly forced 
into some affecting adventure; and, perhaps, driven by the faci- 
nating charms of a Lydia, into a desperate path of fortune. He 
is certainly "tout autre homme" than his appearance announces. 
So, while I was finishing my pedantry with, 

Quid latet, ut marinx 

Filium dicunt Thetidis sub lachrymosa Troja: 

Funera, ne virilis 

CultusincKdem & Lycias proriperet cater vas? 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. -01 

and positively settled in my mind, that this was actually the true 
case, I lbund the barouche entering Ghent. 

There are ever circumstances to disappoint the wishes of those 
who have the world to run through, which, by the bye, is some- 
thing like travelling through this part of Flanders, where we 
find post-horses heavy and slow; and, in my opinion, every thing 
cheerless and comfortless in the inns; grass growing in the cen- 
tre of towns; and all the arts and sciences uncultivated, as their 
steels are neglected by the industrious footsteps of men. I was 
fluttering myself, with learning the historic feats of my dejected 
companion, when I found myself, on my arrival at Ghent, ready 
to be robbed of this "bon bouehe" for my curiosity. As for my- 
self, I can scarcely reconcile these mortifications, about which 
nine-tenths of the world do not care a German kruytzer. 

Douglas; 



SECTION XXX. 
Ji Sermon to English Travellers. 

* f O magrms posthac inimicis risus!" 

Hob. Sat. 2.Lib.2„ 

WHEN your equipages arrive in a town on the Continent 
the rascals of trades-people, and much greater knaves of inn- 
keepers', are laying plans to plunder you; and troops of Garnished 
wretches, devoted to any office that travellers think proper to. 
employ them, like starved Tyrolian wolves prowling for rapine, 
surround you on every sjde; for they conceive your riches im- 
mense, and your ostentatious extravagance still more excessive. 
They first flatter you, on the known liberality of your character, 
as an Englishman, and they prescribe in the most servile manner, 
to all your absurd rediculous caprices. The police of shopkeepers 
have in pay their lay-laque, who surround your hotels; the former 
to learn your history, perhaps, from your English valet, who 
probably may smatter just enough of the language to perplex you 
on all occasions; and the latter to cozen you in their boutiques, 
where you pay cent, pfer cent, more than the natives. 

• The inhabitants of distinction invite you into their circles, to 
fiicn you at their card parties. A pert coquet of some beauty and 
fashion, shams an intrigue with you, to wheedle you4o lose your 
money at piquet; who, while you are racking your imagination, 
to tell her some dull story, and to pay off some piece of gallant 
witticism, is counting her game, and under the mask of "noncha- 
lant badinage, '-' studying to capot you. You suffer your purses 
to be drained with a grace, in hopes of acquiring the name of 
Madame's bien aime; while the lady smiles at the bad imitation 
ef foreign intrigue, and supremely ridicules your English fadaise, 



%2 _ TnE FLOWERS OF 

Men, who have been trained from, their earliest infancy, un- 
der the hand of a friscur, to wear their bags, solitaires, and bro- 
cades, with magnanimous dignity, look contemptuously on your 
affected ease in the manoeuvres of your snuff-boxes, and your 
awkward carriage in sporting your persons. 

Do not, therefore, my dear countrymen, when you travel for 
improvement, and when you should travel as respectable repre- 
sentatives of a body of people, who as long as ever civil society 
has been known to flourish, have been courted and esteemed, do 
not attempt to imitate any other nation than your own-. Ye have 
virtues and refinements among yourselves, sufficient to render 
you completely amiable as men; and understanding to put you 
on equality with the most enlightened of mankind. In short, 
ye have talents within yourselves, when properly exerted, which 
command the esteem of all the world. Let the end, then, of 
visits among foreigners be, to enhance the blessings of your own 
country; to glean that species of information, which may teach 
you how to prize the comforts ye posses at home; and by learn- 
ing the distinct ciualities of men, to secure to yourselves private 
happiness, that may last you all your lives; to bring back with 
you the laws of different empires; politics to serve your king in 
a national exigency; improvements in the arts, to benefit your 
countrymen; and an universal benevolence to carry you through 
life, without rubs to yourselves, and with happiness to those who 
have any commerce with you. 

Suffer not the light characler of Frenchmen, the absurd hau- 
teur of the German Baron of the sixteenth generation, or the 
vain glorious insolence of a romantic Italian, to brand you with 
ridicule. If you perceive virtues in either, that will mend your 
hearts, or be of national benefit, in the application of them to 
your country at large, treasure them in your memory. But 
leave their vices where they were at first engendered, to secure 
to you that ascendency you have ahvays had over them; for, b;> T 
these exotic acquisitions, ) r ou return home with a poison more 
fatally administered, than by the hands of your enemies, and 
which, in succeeding commotions with your neighbours, will be 
a remote conquest, which you have drawn upon yourselves. 
Show yourselves, therefore, liberal, but jfvoid the character of 
magnificent fools, whose greatness is only manifest in the supe- 
rior faculty of squandering riches, more profusely than the natives 
you are associating with. 

I have seen you laughed at, and my heart has bled for you. 
I have seen, when your backs have been turned, an insolent fo- 
reigner speak with contempt of you, who has flattered you with 
a most egregious irony of praise before your faces. Assert your 
solidity of character, and even your deficiencies in the agremens, 
with an Englishman's dignity. Consider your characteristic qual- 
ities in a physical sense; balance them against those of the fo- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 93 

rcigncr; and believe me, that your natural character, joined with 
\ our early and substantial education, will make- you ever res- 
pected. But suffer not your fame to be tarnished with the affect- 
ed -imitation of foreign buffoonery, and the folly of boasted ex- 
travagance. Douglas. 



SECTION XXXI. . 

- Of the City of Canton^ in China. 

THE city of Canton is situate upon the east side of the large 
river Ta, from the mouth of which it lies about fifty miles. It is 
defended towards the water by two high walls, and two strong 
water castles, built in the middle of the river Ta. 

Canton is the greatest port in China, and the only one fre- 
quented by Europeans. The city wall is about five miles in cir- 
cumference, with pleasant walks around it. On the east side is 
a large. ditch close to the wall. 

From the tops of some adjacent hills, on which forts are built, 
you have a fine prospect of the country. Tt is beautifully inter- 
spersed with mountains, little hills, and* valleys, all green; and 
these again pleasantly diversified with small towns, villages, high 
towers, temples, the seats of Mandarines and other great men, 
which are watered with delightful lakes, canals, and small branches 
from the river Ta, on which are numberless boats and jonks 
sailing different ways through the most fertile places of the 
country. 

The city is entered by seven iron gates., and withinside of 
each there is a guard-house. No European is allowed to enter 
these if known; I have myself been frequently expelled, after I 
had been a good way within the city, when they discovered that 
I was a stranger. The soldiers, who keep guard, are armed with 
spears, darts, swords, match-lock guns, but most of them with 
bows and arrows, which they still esteem more than any other 
warlike weapon. 

The streets are very straight, but generally narrow, and paved 
with flag stones. 

There are many pretty buildings in the city, great numbers of 
triumphal arches, and temples well stocked with images. 

The streets of Canton are so crowded, that it is difficult to walk 
in them; yet you will seldom see a woman of any fashion, unless 
by chance, when coming out of their chairs. And, were it not 
that curiosity in the Chinese ladies make them sometimes peep at 
us, we should never get a glance at them. 

Though there are no magnificent houses in Canton, most of 
them being built only one, and none. more than two stories, yet 



THE FLOWERS OF 



they take up a large extent of ground, many of them having square 
courts within their walls. 

They have all such a regard to privacy, that no windows are 
made towards the streets, but in shups and places of public busi- 
ness. None of their windows look towards those of their neigh- 
bours. Within the gate or entry of each house, a screen is placed, 
to prevent strangers from looking in upon the opening of the 
gate; and you enter the house either on the right or left side of 
the middle screen, where there are little alleys to the right and 
left, from whence you pass into the several courts, which are 
walled on all sides. 

Their entertainments are held in a sort of hall at the entrance 
of their houses, which have no other ornament, besides a single 
order of painted columns, which support the building. The roofs 
are open to the tiles, without any ceiling. In these they use no 
looking-glasses, hangings, or fine chairs; and their beds, which 
are the principal ornaments of their houses, are seldom seen by 
strangers, who are not permitted to go farther than the first great 
hall. The Chinese, who keep shops, were less reserved, and 
would frequently invite us to their houses with great freedom, as 
they observed it would be agreeable to us. 

The furniture of the best houses is cabinets, tables, painted 
screens, china, pictures, and pieces of white tafFety upon the walls, 
upon which are written in Chinese characters, religious and 
moral sentences. 

They have no chimneys; but in their stead, they place a shal- 
low iron pot, filled with charcoal, in the middle of the room.; in 
winter, which is ready to suffocate people who are not accustomed 
to it. They have a copper built in brick-work in their kitchen 
for boiling, much about the height of our English stoves. 

The inside of their houses are never wainscoted nor painted, 
but are covered with thin paper. 

The window's are made of cane or rattan. In winter they cut 
oyster-shells into diamond shapes, and set them in wooden frames, 
which afford them a very dull light. 

The shops of those that deal in silk are very neat, make a fine 
show, and are all in one place; for tradesmen, or dealers in one 
kind of goods, herd together in the same street. For this rea- 
son, you may hear the English sailors talking of the streets of Can- 
ton, as if they were speaking of London, or some other English 
city. The street where the china shops are, they call China-row; 
the street where clothes are sold, they call Monmouth-street; 
that narrow street where men's caps, shoes, &c. are sold, is well 
known by the name of Mandarine Cap-alley; and a narrow pas- 
sage close by the city wall, where lapidary and glass-work are 
sold, is called Stonecutters' alley; and so of many others. The 
shops have counters, drawers, and divisions, much like our own; 
and there are few of the merchants but have a person who ca£ 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS* €5 

speak broken English or Portuguese. So that French, Dutch, 
and Danes, are obliged to speak either the one or the other when 
the}'' traffic with them. 

There are great numbers of market places for fish, flesh, poul- • 
try, garden herbs, and all provisions. Every thing is sold cheap. 
Fishmongers keep their fishes in cisterns, alive. Carp, and all 
other fish are here in plenty, but have a muddy taste. I have 
seen the fishermen take great numbers of different fishes in the 
ditch on the east side of the city-wall, where a multitude of small 
boats or sampans are continually plying. The ditch goes quite 
round the city, and some small canals run into it: and as it has 
a connection with the river Ta, it is of great advantage to the 
city. 

I was very much surprised at first to see dogs, cats, rats, frogs, 
&c. in the market-places for sale. But I soon found that they 
made no scruple of eating any sort of meat, and have as good an 
appetite for that which died in a ditch, as that which was killed 
by a butcher. 

The dogs and cats, which they generally brought alive in 
baskets, were, for the most part young and fat, and kept very 
clean. 

The rats, some of which are of monstrous size, were very 
fat, and commonly hung up with the skin upon them, on nails 
at the posts of the market-places. 

Frogs, which are the greatest dainty here, are sold very dear. 
They are black and loathsome to an European eye; but the Chi- 
nese say they have a very fine taste. The rats, they say, eat 
well; and snake broth has been in reputation there, long before 
it was known to us. The frogs are strung upon a rod in the same 
manner as we do fish in England. 

In passing through some of their streets, I have almost been 
suffocated by the stench of the houses on each side; and particu- 
larly a street about a mile above the English factory, where there 
was nothing but .cooks' shops. They had large hogs roasted 
whole, and numbers of dogs, cats, and rats, on the spit, and the 
cooks themselves, with their utensils, had such a dirty appear- 
ance, that the sight and smell, might almost satisfy even the keen- 
est European appetite. They send about their victuals for sale, 
with cowleys or porters. 

The common people eat four times a clay; and are such glut^ 
tons, that, if they are ever so much engaged in business, they 
will hastily leave it, and run to victuals at the usual hour. I 
have seen one Chinese fellow eat six pint basons of rice at one 
meal. Rice they eat greedily-, and cram it down with their chop- 
sticks; which would probably choak them, if they did not wash 
it down every now and then with a cup of Shamshue standing 
by them, 



&G" THE FLOWERS OP 

In the streets of Canton, we often meet with blind beggars, 
of both sexes, a disease, which some imagine, is the conse- 
quence of their living so much on rice; but I rather think it may 
be occasioned by the hot winds that blow here at certain seasons. S? 
They are indeed miserable objects, and commonly go naked, 
excepting a trouser or cloth over the middle. They go some- 
times in companies, and are sure to plague and follow the Eu- 
ropeans; because from one of them they will get more at one 
time, than from a dozen of their own countrymen The Chi- 
nese are very uncharitable. I never saw them give money to 
a beggar; but they generally put them off with a small handful 
of rice. 

As it is natural for Europeans to let slip no opportunity of 
seeing the fair sex, and as the women there are kept so very 
private, that many of us have made several voyages thither, 
without having seen a woman above the lowest rank, we were 
now and then induced, on proper occasions, to pry into the 
most retired and unfrequented places, where we imagined the 
females might be less on their guard, as few Europeans went 
thereabouts to disturb them. In these rambles, our curiosity 
was seldom disappointed. Sometimes we would pop in upon 
a parcel of young boys and girls, attended by their nurses, 
who were all so affrighted at the sight of Fanquay, as they call- 
ed us, that they would scream aloud, run into their houses, and, by 
the noise, alarm the whole street. As I have observed alrea- 
dy, that they have no windows to the street, and have a screen 
of sjilit cane before the door of each house, avc could not sec 
them, though they could easily see us through that lattice: we could 
only very indistinctly perceive them peeping at us, and point- 
ing to us within-side the screen. 

Now and then, on turning a corner, or entering a private 
street, all of a sudden we found ourselves in the midst of a 
company of young ladies, conversing or playing together, which 
immediately set them all a screaming, and made them run for 
shelter into their several apartments. 

These accidental opportunities made us very happy; for we 
frequently saw some charming creatures, surpassing all descrip- 
tion, and Avhose beauty, it would appear, most Europeans who 
have been here, are entirely ignorant of. Indeed w r e could only 
be happy in the glance of one or two such in a street; for the 
screaming of one caught without doors, immediately alarmed the 
rest of the ladies, and baffled our curiosity. 

Sometimes, indeed, we met them at a considerable distance 
from their houses; and, as their feet are so little that they cannot 
walk or run, but rather trip or hobble along, and are often obliged 
to assist themselves by laying hold of the wall as they move along; 
this gave us an opportunity of gazing upon then attentively, on 
these occasions. They seemed so affrighted, and walked so awk- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 97 

wardly, that we were glad to retire, lest we should have made 
I hem stumble and fall, for which we should certainly have been 
bamboo'd. 

The complexion of the ladies is exceedingly fair, their hair of 
the finest blacky dressed up with gold and silver bodkins, adorn- 
ed with flowers. Their shape is exquisitely fine, and their 
dresses the most becoming, natural, easy, and splendid, of any I 
ever saw. 

It is reckoned, that there are in the city and suburbs of Can- 
ion 1,200,000 people; and you will scarce find a day in the 
whole year, but there are 5000 trading vessels lying before the> 

pifc y- 

The temples and places of public worship are the most mag- 
nificent buildings in Canton. They are well filled with images. 
The people pay profound adoration to them, by falling down on 
their knees before them, wringing their hands, and beating their fore- 
heads against the ground. These temples are decorated with a 
great number of artificial flowers, embroidered hangings, curtains 
and fringes. One of them, situated in the skirt of the nOrth-east 
side of the suburbs, makes a splendid appearance. It is four 
stories high, has a fine cupola, with many houses and galleries. 
The lower part of it is built with fine hewn stone, but the upper 
part is all of timber. We went first into the lower hall, where 
we saw images of all sizes, of different dignities, and finely 
gilded, and kept exceedingly clean by the priests. The lesser 
images were placed in corners of the wall, and one of a larger size 
in the middle of the hall. This large god, who is placed in the 
Centre, sits in a lazy posture, almost naked, and leaning on a large 
cushion. He is ten times larger than an ordinary man, very 
corpulent, of a merry countenance, and gilt all over. We were 
next conducted up stairs, where we saw a great many images of 
men and women, who had been deified for their brave and vir- 
tuous actions. 

Though Canton is but twenty-four degrees from the equator, 
and is scorching hot in summer, yet, about the months of Decem- 
ber and January, it is subject to high winds, and very heavy rains. 
The sudden alteration which the climate then undergoes, is very 
surprising. At this time, the people of China take to their win- 
ter dress, which is lined with furs, or quilted cotton. Instead of 
wearing fans, which are used by men, women, and children, in 
hot weather, they hold a live quail in their hands to keep them 
warm, and have the long sleeves of their gowns drawn down, 
to cover their hands. Thus equipped, they walk so stiff, and 
shrug up their shoulders so much, that one would think that they 
were freezing to death. 

The river Ta, at Canton, is somewhat broader than the Thames 
at London. But the crowds of small vessels that ply the Ta, 
are vastly more numerous. For fhe spac^ of four or five eijles, 






OH- THE FLOWERS Of 

opposite the city of Canton, you have an extensive wooden town 
of large vessels and boats, stowed so closely, that there is scarcely 
room for a large boat to pass. They are generally drawn up in 
ranks, with a narrow passage left for vessels to pass and repass. <0 
Some of them are large vessels of eight or nine hundred tons 
burden, called jonks, with which they perform their foreign voy- 
ages. Here are also an incredible number of small boats, in 
which poor families live all their life long, without ever putting 
a foot on shore. In these they keep dogs, eats, hogs, geese, and 
Art her domestic animals, both for subsistence and sale. There is 
nothing similar to this in Europe; for the people in this country 
are so exceedingly numerous, that vast numbers of families are 
obliged to betake themselves to boats on the river, for want of 
room, or the means of subsistence on land, where almost every 
habitable spot is occupied. These boats are very conveniently 
built, with arched covers and tilts, made of solid wood, or bam- 
boo or cajan leaves, so high that the people can walk upright 
under them. They manage them very nimbly, have a sculling 
oar at the stern, with which they make them go surprisingly 
fast; I have often been amazed to see with what ease and safe- 
ty they pass one another. Chinese Traveller. 



SECTION XXXII. 

Of the Policy and Government of China. 

AMONGST the several models and plans of governments 
Which the ancients framed, we shall perhaps meet with none so 
perfect and exact, as is that of the Chinese monarchy. The 
ancient lawgivers of this potent empire, formed it in their days 
very little different from what it is in ours. Other states, accord- 
ing to the common fate of things of this world, are sensible of the 
weakness of infancy; are born mishapen and imperfect; and, like 
men, they owe their perfection and maturity to time. China seems 
more exempted from the common laws of nature; and, as though the 
Supreme Being himself had found their empire, the plan of their 
government was not a whit less perfect in its cradle, than it is 
now after the experience and trial of four thousand years. 

During all which time, the Chinese had never so much as heard 
of a Republic; and when latel}~, on the arrival of the Hollanders, 
they heard of it, it seemed so strange to them, that they have 
scarcely yet done admiring at it. Nothing could make them un- 
derstand how a state could regularly be governed without a king. 
They looked upon a republic to be a monster with many heads, 
formed by the ambition, headiness, and corrupt inclinations o£ 
«aen, h\ times of public disorder and confusion,. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. S.'9 

As they bear an aversion to republican government, so they 
are yet more set against tyranny and oppression, which they say 
proceeds not from the absoluteness of the prince's power, but 
from his wildness, which neither the voice of nature, nor the 
laws of God, can ever countenance. The Chinese are of opinion, 
that the obligation which is laid on their kings, not to abuse their 
power, is rather a means to confirm and establish them, than to 
occasion their ruin; and that this useful constraint, which they 
themselves lay on their passions, does not more diminish their 
power or authority here on earth, than the like constraint dero- 
gates from the majesty and power of the Almighty, who is not 
the less powerful because he cannot do evil. 

An unbouded authority which the laws give the emperor, and 
the necessity which the same lay upon him. to use that authority 
with moderation and discretion, are the two props which for many 
ages supported this great fabric of the Chinese monarchy. The 
first principle, therefore, that is instilled into the people, is to 
respect their prince with so high a veneration as almost to adore 
him. They stile him the son of heaven, and the only master of 
the world. His commands are. indisputable. His words carry 
no less authority with them, than if they were oracles. In short., 
every thing that comes from him is sacred. He is seldom seen } 
and never spoken to but on the knees. The grandees of the 
court, the princes of the blood, nay, his own brothers, bow to 
the ground, not only when he is present, but even before the 
throne; and there are set days every week or month, on which the 
nobility assemble, who meet in one of the courts of the palace, 
to acknowledge the authority of their prince, by their most sub- 
missive adoration, though he, perhaps, be not there in person. 

When he is ill, the palace is full of mandarines of every order, 
who spend night and clay, in a large court, in habits proper for 
the occasion, to express their own grief, and to ask of heaven 
their prince's cure. Rain, snow, cold, or any other inconve- 
niences, excuse them not from the performance of this duty; 
and as long as the emperor is in pain, or in danger, any one that 
saw the people would think that they feared nothing but the loss 
of him. 

The towns of China arc generally divided into four parts, and 
those again into several smaller divisions, each of which contains 
ten houses, over every one of which subdivisions, an officer pre- 
sides, who takes notice of every thing which passes in his little 
ward, tells the mandarines what contentions or extraordinary 
things happen, and what strangers come thither or go thence. The 
neighbourhood is obliged to give mutual assistance, and in case 
of any alarm, to lend another a helping hand; for if any theft or 
robbery is committed during the night, the neighbourhood must 
contribute towards repairing the loss. Lastly/ in every family 



100 THE FLOWERS OF 

the father is responsible for the disorders and irregularities com- 
mitted either by his children or servants. 

The gates of the cities are well looked after, and even in time 
of peace, arc shut at the approach of night. In the day time 
there are guards to examine all who come in. When they ob- 
serve any thing extraordinary or suspicious they take the person 
up, or inform the mandarine of it. So that European missiona- 
ries, whose aspect is infinitely different from that of the Chinese, 
and known at first sight, and those who have not the emperor's 
approbation, find it very difficult to make a long journey. 

In certain places, as at Pekin, as soon as night comes on, they 
tie chains across the streets; the guards go the palrole up and down 
the principal streets, and guards and sentinels arc placed here 
and there. There horse go the rounds upon the fortifications; and 
woe be to him who is found then from home. Meetings, mas- 
querades, and balls, and such-like night works, are good, say the 
Chinese, for none but thieves and the mob. Orderly people 
ought, at that time, either to sit up providing for their family, or 
else to their rest, that they may be refreshed, and better able the 
next day to manage the business of the family. 

Gaming is forbidden, both to the common people and the gen- 
try. This, however, does not hinder the Chinese from playing, 
sometimes even so long, as till they have lost all their estates. 
their houses, their children, and their wives, which they some- 
times hazard upon a card; for there is no degree of extrava- 
gance to which the desire of lucre and riches will carry a Chi- 
nese. 

What I have said concerning wives, that their husbands may 
sell them, or lose them at play, puts me in mind to give some 
account of the rules which their civil constitution, rather than 
their religion, has ordained concerning marriages. Those who 
have a mind to marry, do not, as among us, follow their own 
fancies in the choice of a wife. They never see the woman they 
are to have, but take their parent's word in the case; or else they 
have have their information from some old woman, who seldom 
gives a just description of her whom they are to view. 

The woman's parents generally give money to these emissaries', 
to oblige them to give a favourable character. It is for the ad- 
vantage of the parents that their daughter should be reputed hand- 
some, witty, and genteel; because the Chinese buy their wives, 
and, as in other merchandise, they give more or less according to 
the good or bad properties of them. 

When the parties are agreed about the price, the contract is 
made, and the money paid down. Then preparations is made on 
both sides for the nuptial solemnities. When the day of marri- 
age is come, they carry the bride on a sumptuous chair, before 
which go hautboys, drums and fifes, and after it follow her pa- 
rents, and other particular friends of her family. AH the por- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 101 

tion which she brings, is her marriage garments, some cloathes, 
and household goods, which her father presents her with. The 
bridegroom stands at his door, richly attired, waiting for her. 
He himself, opens the sedan, which is closely shut; and, having 
conducted her into a chamber, delivers her to several women, 
invited thither for that purpose, who spend there the day together, 
in feasting and sporting, while the husband in another room, en- 
tertains his friends and acquintance. 

This being the first time that the bride and bridegroom see 
each other; and one, or both, perhaps, not liking their bargain, it 
is frequently a day of rejoicing for their guests, but of sorrow 
for themselves. The women must submit, though they do not 
like, because their parents have sold them; but the husbands some- 
times are not so complaisant; for there have been some, who, 
when they first open the sedan to receive the bride, repulsed by 
her shape and aspect, have shut the chair, and sent her and her 
parents and friends back again, willing rather to lose their money 
than enter upon so bad a purchase. 

Although a man be allowed but one wife, he may have as many 
concubines as he pleases. All the children- have an equal claim 
to the estate, .because they are reckoned as the children of the 
wife, even though they be those of the concubines. They all 
call the wife, mother, who is indeed sole mistress of the house. 
The concubines serve and honour her, and have no manner of 
authority or power but what they derive from her. 

The Chinese think it a strange thing that the Europeans are 
not allowed to have concubines; yet they confess it is a com- 
mendable sign of moderation in them. But when we observed 
to them the troubles, quarrels, contentions, and jealousies, which 
many women must needs occasion in a family, they say that there- 
was no state without some inconvenience; but perhaps there 
were more crosses in having but one, than in having many wo- 
men. -The best way, they owned, was to have none at all. 

Chinese Traveller . 



SECTION XXXIII, 
Of Confucius, 

THIS celebrated Chinese philosopher, was born in the king- 
dom of Lou, which is at present, in the province of Chan Long, 
551 years before the birth of Christ. He was contemporary with 
Pythagoras, and a little before Socrates. He was but three years 
old when he lost his father, who had enjoyed the highest offices 
of the kingdom of Long. 

Coiifucius did not grow in knowledge by degrees, as children 



10>J 'i.ilU FLOWERS OK 

usually do, but seemed to arrive at reason and the perfection of 
bis faculties almost from his infancy. 

He took no-delight in playing, running about, and such amuse- 
ments as were proper for his age. He had a grave and serious 
deportment, which gained him respect, and plainly foretold 'what 
he would one day be. 15ut what distinguished him most, was 
his unexampled and exalted piety. He honoured his relations; 
he endeavoured in all things, to imitate his grandfather, who was 
then alive in China, and a most holy man. And it was observ- 
able, that he never ate any thing, but he prostrated himself on 
the ground, and offered it. first to the Supreme Lord of heaven. 

One day, while he was a child, he heard his grandfather fetch 
a deep sigh; and going up to him with much reverence, "May 
I presume/' says he, "without losing the respect T owe you, to 
enquire into the occasion of your grief? perhaps you fear that 
your posterity should degenerate^ from your virtue, and dishon- 
our you b}' their vices."' "What put this into your head," says 
his grandfather to him; "and where have you learnt to speak in 
this manner?'* "From yourself," replied Confucius, "I attend 
diligently to you every time you speak; and I have often heard you 
say, that a son, who does not hy his virtue, support the glory of 
his ancestors, does not deserve to bear their name." 

After his grandfather's death, Confucius applied himself to 
Teem-sc, a celebrated doctor of his time; and, under the direc- 
tion of so great a master, he soon made a vast progress into an- 
tiquity, which he considered as the source from whence all genu- 
ine knowledge was to be drawn. This love of the ancients very near- 
ly cost him his life, when he was no more than sixteen years of age. 
Falling into discourse one day about the Chinese books, with a per- 
son of high quality, who thought them obscure, and not worth the 
pains of searching into; "The books you dispise, says Confucius, 
are full of profound knowledge, which is not to be attained but 
by the wise and learned; and the people would think cheaply of 
them, could they comprehend them of themselves. The subor- 
dination of spirits, hy which the ignorant are dependent upon the 
knowing, is very useful, and even necessary to society. Were 
all families equally rich, and equally powerful, there could not 
subsist any form of government; but there Avould happen a )-et 
stranger disorder, if all men were equally knowing; for then eve- 
ry one would be for governing, and none could think themselves 
obliged to obey. Some time ago, added Confucius, an ordinary 
fellow made the same observation to me about the books as you 
have done; and from such a one, indeed nothing better could be 
expected: but I admire that you, a doctor, should thus be found 
speaking like one of the lowest of the people." 

This rebuke had indeed, the good effect of silencing the man- 
darine, and bringing him to abetter opinion of the learning of his 
country; yet it vexed him so at the same time, as it game from 



CELEBRATED THAVf-LLEl'.S. ' 1&& 

almost a boy, that he would have revenged it by violence, if bfi 
had not been prevented. 

At, the age of nineteen years, Confucius took a wife, %ho 
brought him a son called Tsou-tse, who, in imitation of his father, 
applied himself entirely to the study of wisdom, and by his merit, 
arrived to the highest oihees of the empire, Confucius was con- 
tent with his wife only, so long as she lived with him; and never 
kept any concubines, as the custom of his country would have 
allowed him to have done, because he thought it contrary to the 
law of nature. I sa}', so long as she lived with him; lb'" it seems, 
lie divorced her after some time, and for no oiher reason, say 
the Chinese, but that he might be free from all incumbrances and 
connections, and at liberty to propagate his philosophy through- 
out the empire. At the age of twenty-three, when he had gain- 
ed a considerable knowledge of antiquity, and acquainted him- 
self with the laws and customs of his country, he began to pro- 
ject a scheme for a general reformation; for then every province 
of the empire was a distinct kingdom, which had its particular 
laws, and was governed by a prince. 

To say the truth, all the little kingdoms depended upon the 
emperor; but it often happened that the imperial authority was 
not able to keep them within the bounds of their duty. Every 
one of these kings was master in his dominions. They levied 
taxes, imposed tributes, disposed of dignities and offices-, declar- 
ed war against their neighbours when they thought proper; and 
sometimes became formidable to the emperor himself. 

Confucius, wisely persuaded that the people could never be 
happy, so long as avarice, ambition, voluptuousness, and false 
policy, should reign in this manner, resolved to preach up a se- 
vere morality; and accordingly he began to enforce, temperence, 
justice, and other virtues, to inspire a contempt of riches and out- 
ward pomp, to excite to magnanimity, and a greatness- of soul, 
which should make men incapable of dissimulation and insincerity} 
and to use all tlxe means he could think of, to redeem his coun- 
trymen from a life of pleasure to a life of reason. He was every 
where known, and as much beloved. His extreme knowledge 
and great wisdom, soon made him known; his integrity, and the 
splendour of his virtues, made him beloved. Kings were go- 
verned by his wisdom, and the people reverenced him as a saint. 
He was offered several high offices in the magistracy, which he 
sometimes accepted; but never from a motive of ambition, which 
he was not at all concerned to gratify, but always with a view 
of reforming a corrupt state, and amending, mankind; for he never 
failed to resign those offices, as soon as he perceived that he 
could be no longer useful in them. Thus, for instance, he was 
raised to a considerable place of trust in the kingdom of Lou, 
his own native country; where he had not exercised his charge 
above three months, when the court and provinces,- through hjs\ 



104 T*LK FLOWERS 01? 

counsels ami management, were become quite another thing. He 
corrected many frauds and abuses in the mercantile way, and 
reduced the weights and measures to their proper standard. He 
inculcated fidelity and candour among the men, and exhorted the 
women to chastity and simplicity of manners. By such methods, 
lie wrought a general reformation, and established every where, 
such concord and unanimity, that the whole kingdom seemed a< 
'if it were but one great family. 

The neghbouring princes began to be jealous. They easily 
perceived, that a king, under the counsels of such a man as Con- 
fucius, would quickly render himself too powerful; since nothing 
can make a state flourish more than good order among the mem- 
bers, and an exact observance of its laws. Alarmed at this, the 
king of Tsi assembled his ministers to consider of methods, 
which might put a stop to the career of this new government; 
and after some deliberations, the following expedient was re- 
solved upon. They got together a great number of young girls 
of extraordinary beauty, who had been instructed from their in- 
fancy in singing and dancing, and Were perfect mistresses of ali 
those charms and accomplishments, which might please and cap- 
tivate the heart. These, under the pretext of an embassy, they 
presented to the king of Lou, and to the grandees of his court. 
The present was joyfully received, and had its desired effect. 
The arts of good government were immediately neglected, and 
nothing was thought of but inventing new pleasures, for the en- 
tertainment of the fair strangers. In short, nothing was regard- 
ed for some months, but feasting, dancing, show, &c. and the 
court was entirely dissolved in luxury and pleasure. Confucius 
had foreseen all this, and endeavoured to prevent it by advising 
the refusal of the present; and he now laboured to take off the 
delusion they were fallen into, and to bring men back to reason 
and their duty. But all his endeavours proved ineffectual. There 
was nothing to be done; and the severity of the philosopher, 
whether he would or no, was obliged to give way to the over- 
bearing fashion of the court. Upon which he immediately quit- 
ted his employment, becoming an exile at the same time from his 
native country, to try, if he could find in other kingdoms minds 
and dispositions more fit to relish and pursue his maxims. 

He pissed through the kingdoms of Tsi, Guci, and Tson, but 
met with insurmountable difficulties every where. He had the 
misfortune to live in times, when rebellions, wars, and tumults, 
raged throughout the empire. Men had no time to listen to his 
philosophy. They had even less inclination to do it; for, as we 
have said, they were ambitious, avaricious, and voluptuous. — 
Hence he often met with ill treatment and reproachful language, 
and it is said, that conspiracies were formed against his life; to 
which may be added, that his neglect of his own interests had 
reduced him to the extremest poverty. Some philosophers among 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. , 105 

Lis cotemporaries were so effected with the terrible state of things, 
that they had rusticated themselves into the mountains and desarts, 
as the only places where happiness could be found; and would 
have persuaded Confucius to follow them. "But, I am a man., 
says Confucius, and cannot exclude myself from the society of 
men, and consort with beasts. Bad as the times are, I shall do 
all that I can to recall men to virtue; for in virtue are all things, 
and if mankind would once embrace it, and submit themselves 
to its discipline and laws, they would not want men or any body 
else to instruct them. It is the duty of a good man, first to per- 
fect himself, and then to perfect others. Human nature, said he, 
came to us from heaven pure and perfect; but in process of time, 
ignorance, the passions, and evil examples, have corrupted it. 
All consists in restoring it to its primitive beauty; and to be per- 
fect, we must re-ascend to that point from whence we have 
fallen. Obey heaven, and follow the orders of him who governs 
it. Love your neighbor as yourself Let your reason, and not 
your senses be the rule of your conduct, for reason will teach you 
to think wisely, to speak prudently, and to behave yourself wor- 
thily on all occasions." 

Confucius in the meantime, though he had withdrawn him- 
self from kings and palaces, did not cease to travel about, and do 
what good he could among the people, and among mankind in ge= 
neral. He sent six hundred of his disciples into different parts 
of the empire, to reform the manners of the people; and, not sa- 
tisfied with benefiting his own country only, he made frequent 
resolutions to pass the seas, and propagate his doctrine to the far- 
thest part of the world. Hardly any thing can be added to the 
purity of his morality. He seems rather to speak like a doctor 
of a revealed law, than like a man who had no light but what the 
law of nature afforded him: and what convinces us of his sincerity 
is, that he taught as forcibly by example as by precept. In short, 
his gravity and sobriety, his rigorous abstinence, his contempt 
of riches, and what are commonly called the goods of this life ? 
his continual attention and watchfulness over his actions, and, 
above all, that modesty and humility, which are not to be found 
among the Grecian sages; all these, I say, would almost tempt 
one to believe, that he was not a mere philosopher formed by 
reason only, but a man inspired by God for the reformation of 
the world, and to check that torrent of idolatry and superstition, 
which was going to overspread that particular part of it. 

Confucius is said to have lived in retirement three years, and 
to have spent the latter part of his life in sorrow. A few days before 
his last illness, he told his disciples with tears in his eyes, that 
he was overcome with grief at the sight of the disorders which 
prevailed in the empire. "The mountain, said he, is fallen; the 
high machine is demolished, and the sages are fled." His mean- 
ing was, that the edifice of perfection, which he had endeavoured 
14 



10t> THE FLOWERS OF 

to raise, was entirely overthrown.. He began to languish from 
thai time, and on the seventh day before bis death, "The kings, 
said be, reject my maxims; and since I am no longer useful on 
the earth, I may as well leave it." After these words he fell into 
a lethargy, and at the end of seven days expired, in the arms of 
his disciples, in the seventy-third year of his age. Upon the 
first bearing of his death, the king of Lou could not refrain from 
tears; "The Tien is not satisfied with me, cried he, as Confucius 
is taken away from me." In reality, wise men are precious gifts, 
with which heaven blesses the earth; arid their worth is never so 
well known till they are taken away. Confucius was lamented 
by the whole empire, which from that very moment began to 
honour him as a saint; and established such a veneration for his 
memory, as will probably last forever, in those parts of the 
world. Kings have built palaces for him in all the provinces, 
whither the learned go at certain times to pay him homage. There 
are to be seen upon several edifices; raised in honour of him, in- 
scriptions in large characters; "To the great master. To the 
head doctor. To the saint. To him who taught emperors and 
kings." 

Confucius did not altogether trust to the memory of his disci- 
ples for the preservation of his philosophy, but committed the 
substance of it to writing. His books are four in number. The 
first is entitled, "Ta Hio, the Grand Science, or the School of 
the Adults." It is this that beginners ought to study first, be- 
cause it is, as it were, the porch of the temple of wisdom and vir- 
tue. It treats of the care we ought to take in governing our- 
selves, that we may be able afterwards, to govern others. The 
second book is called, "Tchong Yong, or the Immutable Mean;" 
and treats of the means which ought to be observed in all things. 
The third book, "Yun Lu, or the Book of Maxims," is a collec- 
tion of sententious and moral discourses; and the fourth book 
gives an idea of perfect government. They who would have a 
perfect knowledge of all these works, will find it in the Latin 
of father Noel, one of the most ancient missionaries of China, 
which was printed at Prague in the year 1711. 

Chinese Traveller.- 



SECTION XXXIV. 

Of the. Number of Inhabitants in China j and of the Chinese- 
Language. 

IT is remarkable that the manners of the modern, differ not 
much from those of the ancient Chinese. Pliny says "that silk 
originally came from China; that the Chinese, whom he called 
Seres, (from which name is derived the Roman word sericum, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 107 

silk) like wild animals industriously shunned any communication 
with strangers; and that they were of mild dispositions." They 
are at this day courteous and gentle, but will not suffer merchanis 
ef other nations to penetrate into their country. 

How admirable are their political maxims! They demonstrate 
by experience, that from the natural produce of the ground, the 
true riches and prosperity of a country arise. By the assiduous 
cultivation of every inch of ground, they are enabled to maintain 
an amazing multitude of people, who are said to be more in num- 
ber than all the inhabitants of Europe. It is computed, that in 
China, there are seventy millions of people, though it does not 
seem to be more than three times the size of Great Britain, which 
does not contain above seven or eight millions. How great a 
disproportion do we find, with respect to the number of inha- 
bitants of these two countries! And indeed, if we cast our eyes 
upon any neglected country, for instance the Highlands of Scot- 
land, we shall always see few inhabitants, and even those, dis- 
tressed and poor. Their circumstances would not be much hap- 
p er, if they even had the rich metals of Peru, whilst they idly re- 
fuse to till the earth, which always rewards the toil of the hus- 
bandman. Riches ebb faster out than they fiow into a country, 
where the natives thereof must purchase the necessaries and con- 
veniencies of life from strangers. 

The Chinese language bears no affinity to any language, dead 
or living, with which we are acquainted. All other languages 
have an alphabet composed of a certain Immber of letters, by the 
various combinations of which, syllables and words are formed. 
Whereas, there is no alphabet of the Chinese language; but there 
are as many different characters and figures as words. The 
number of Chinese characters is computed to be about 80,000. 
A person, however, lhat understands 10,000 characters, is able 
to express himself in this language, and to understand many 
books. Most of the learned do not understand above 15,000 or 
20,000; and but few doctors are masters of 40,000. 

A dictionary was compiled, by order of the late emperor, con- 
sisting of one hundred and nineteen volumes, most of them writ- 
ten in a small character, and very thick. It it certain that no lan- 
guage in the world is more copious than the Chinese. 

The sense of the Chinese language is very much varied by the 
different accents, inflections, tones, aspirations, and other changes 
of the voice; hence it is, that persons, who are not exceedingly 
well versed in this language, often mistake one word for another. 
Of this father du Halde gives some examples; such as, that the 
word Tehu, when differently sounded, signifies a lord, or master, 
a hog, a kitchen, or a column. In like manner, the syllabi* • Po, 
has, according as it is sounded, the following different meanings; 
glass, wise, liberal, to prepare, an old woman, to break, to cleave, 
inclined, a very little, to water, a slave, a captive, to boil, to 



108 THE FLOWERS OF 

winnow rice.' Likewise the same word joined to others, is capa- 
ble of a variety of senses. For instance, Mou or Moo, when sin- 
gle, signifies a tree or wood; but when compounded, it has many 
more significations; Moo siang, signifying a chest of drawers. 
Moo nu, a kind of small orange, &c. 

In this manner the Chinese, by variously combining their mono- 
syllables, can form regular discourses, and express themselves 
with clearness and elegance, almost in the same manner as the 
Europeans compose all their words by the different combinations 
of about twenty-fourietters. Chinese Traveller. 



SECTION XXXV. 
Of the Tea-Plant. 

OF all the vegetable productions of China, the tea-plant is the 
most valuable. The shiub, which seems to be a species of myr- 
tle, seldom grows beyond the size of a rose-bush, or at most, six 
or seven feet in height, though some have extended it to an hun- 
dred. It succeeds best in a gravelly soil, and is usually planted 
in rows, upon little hills, about three or four feet distant from 
each other. Its leaves are about an inch and a half long, taper- 
ing to the point, and indented like our rose or sweet-briar leaves, 
and its flowers are mucl#like those of the latter. The shrub is 
an evergreen, and bears a small fruit, which contains several round 
blackish seeds about the bigness of a large pea; but scarce above 
one in an hundred comes to perfection. iBy these seeds the plant 
is propagated, nine or ten of them being put into a hole .together; 
and the shrubs thence arising are afterwards transplanted into 
proper ground. They thrive best when they are exposed to the 
south-sun, and yield the best tea; but there is a sort that grows 
without any cultivation, which, though less valuable, often serves 
the poorer sort of people. 

The Chinese know nothing of imperial tea, and several other 
names which the Europeans serve to distinguish the goodness and 
price of this fashionable commodity. In (ruth, though there be 
various kinds of tea, they are now generally allowed to be the 
produce of the same plant, only differing in the colour, fragrancy, 
&c. according to the difference of soil, the time of gathering it, 
and the method of preparation. Bohi or Bohea tea, is so called, 
not from the mountains of Bokein, where the best of that sort is 
said to grow, but from its dark and blackish colour. This chiefly 
diners from the green tea, by its being gathered six or seven 
weeks sooner, that; is, in March or April, according as the sea- 
son proves, when the plant is in full bloom, and the leaves full 
of juice; whereas the other, by being left so much the longer upon 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 109 

ihe tree, loses a great part of its juice, and contracts a different co- 
lour, taste, and virtue. 

The green tea is much valued and used in China; and the Bohea 
seems not to have been known there till about the conclusion of 
the fifteenth century: for a judicious Hollander, who was physi- 
cian and botanist to the emperor of Japan at that period, tells us, 
that he had heard of the Bohi or black tea being come into vogue 
in China; but upon the strictest search he could make, could find 
no such thing, and therefore believed it was a false report. This 
makes it probable, that originally they gathered all the tea at the 
same time, but that, since the discovery of the smoothness and 
excellence of the more juicy Bohea, they have carried on the ex- 
periment still farther, .by gathering it at different seasons. 

As to the manner of curing the tea, the Bohea is first dried in 
the shade, and afterwards exposed to the heat of the sun, or over 
a slow fire, in earthen pans, till it is convolved or shrivelled up 
(as we see it) into a small compass. The other sorts are com- 
monly crisped and dried as soon as gathered; though, according 
to Dr. Cunningham, the Bohea is dried in the shade, and the green 
in pans over the fire. 

It is very rare to find tea perfectly pure, the Chinese general- 
ly mixing other leaves with it to increase the quantity; though one 
would think the price is too moderate to tempt them to such a 
cheat, it being usually sold amongst them for three-pence per 
pound, and never for more than nine-pence; so that it is most pro- 
bable, the worst adulterations of it, are made by our own retailers. 

Bohea, if good, is all of a dark colour, crisp and dry, and has 
a fine smell. 

Green tea is also to be chosen by its crispness, fragrant smell, 
and light colour, with a bluish cast; for it is not good, if any 
of the leaves appear dark or brownish. 

As to the properties of the tea, they are very much controvert- 
ed by our physicians; but the Chinese reckon it an excellent di- 
luter and purifier of the blood, a great strengthener of the brain 
and stomach, a promoter of digestion, perspiration, and other se- 
cretions. They drink large quantities of it in fevers, in some sorts 
of cholics, and other acute diseases; and think it corrects the 
acrimony of the humours, removes obstructions of the viscera, and 
restores decayed sight. That the gout and stone are unknown in 
China, is ascribed to the use of this plant. Some of the virtues 
attributed to tea, are undoubtedly imaginary, and it has bad ef- 
fects on some constitutions; but experience shows, that several 
advantages attend the drinking it with discretion. It quickens 
the senses, prevents drowsiness, corrects the heat of the liver, 
removes the head-ach, especially that proceeding from a crapula, 
and being greatly astringent, it strengthens the tone of the sto- 
mach. Chinese Traveller. 



1 IP THE TLOWERS 01 

SECTION XXXVI. 
Of the Private Life of the Egyptian Ladies. 

IN Europe, women act parts of great consequence, and often 
reign sovereigns on the world's vast theatre; they influence man- 
ners and morals, and decide on the most important events; the 
fate of. nations is frequently in their hands. How different in 
Egypt, where they are bowed down by the fetters of slavery, 
condemned to servitude, and have no influence in public affairs. 
Their empire is confined within the walls of the Harem. There 
are their graces and charms entombed. The circle of the life ex- 
tends not beyond their own family and domestic duties. 

Their first care is to educate their children, and a numerous 
posterity is their most fervent wish. Mothers always suckle 
their children. This is expressly commanded by Mahomet. 
•'Let the mother suclde her 'child full two years, if the child does 
not quit the breast; but she shall be permitted to wean it, with the 
consent of her husband " . 

When obliged by circumstances, to take a nurse, they do not 
treat her as a stranger. She becomes one of the family, and 
passes her days amidst the children she has suckled, by whom she 
is cherished and honoured as a second mother. 

Racine, who possessed not only genius, but all the knowledge 
necessary to render genius conspicuous, stored with the learning 
of the finest works of Greece, and well acquainted with the orien- 
tal manners, gives Phaedra, her nurse as her sole confidante. 
The wretched queen, infected by a guilty passion she could not 
conquer, while the fatal secret oppressed a heart that durst not 
unload itself, could not resolve to speak her thoughts to the ten 
der (Enone, till the latter had said, 

'^Cruelle, quand ma foi vous a-telle decue 
"Songez-vous, qu'en naissant, mes bras vous ont recue: 

"When, cruel queen, by me were you deceived? 
"Did I not first receive you in these arms? 

The harem is the cradle and school of infancy. The new- 
born feeble being is not there swaddled and filleted up in a swathe, 
the source of a thousand diseases. Laid naked on a mat, exposed m 
a vast chamber to the pure air, he breathes freely, and with his del- 
icate limbs sprawles at pleasure. The new element in which he is 
to live, is not entered with pain and tears. Daily bathed beneath his 
mother's eye, he grows apace. Free to act, he tries his coming 
powers; rolls, crawls, rises, and should he fall, cannot much hurt 
himself on the carpet or mat which covers the floor. 

He is not banished his father's house when seven years old. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. Ill 

and sent to college with the loss of health and innocence. He 
does not,, 'tis true, acquire much learning. He perhaps can only 
read and write; but he is healthy, robust, fears God, respects old 
age, has filial piety, and delights in hospitality; which virtues 
continually practised in his family, remain deeply engraven in 
his heart. 

The daughter's education is the same. Whalebone and busks, 
which martyr European girls, they know not. They are only 
eovei-ed with a shift till six years old; and the dress they after- 
wards wear, confines none of their limbs, but suffers the body to 
take its true form: and nothing is more uncommon than rickelty 
children and crooked people. Man rises in all his majesty, and 
woman displays every charm of person in the East. In Geor- 
gia and Greece, those fine marking outlines, those admirable forms, 
which the Creator gave the chief of his works, are best preserved. 
Appelles would still find models worthy of his pencil there. 

The care of their children does not wholly employ their wo- 
men. Every other domestic concern is theirs. They overlook 
their household, and do uot think themselves debased, by prepar- 
ing their own food, and that of their husbands. Former cus- 
toms, still subsisting render these cares duties. Thus Sarah 
hastened to bake cakes upon the earth, while angels visited Abra- 
ham, who performed the rights of hospitality. Menelaus thus 
intreats the departing Telemachus: 

'Yet stay, my friends, and in your chariot take 
"The noblest presents that our love can make: 
"Mean-time, commit we to our women's care 
"Some choice domestic viands to prepare." 

Pope's Odyssey, Lib. 15, 

Subject to the immutable laws by which custom governs the 
east, the women do not associate with the men, not even at ta- 
ble*, where the union of sexes produces mirth and wit, and makes 
food more sweet. When the great incline to dine with one of 
their wives, she is informed, prepares the apartment, perfumes it 
with precious essences, procures the most delicate viands, and re- 
ceives her lord with the utmost attention and respect. Among 
the common people, the women usually stand, or sit in a corner 
of the room, while the husband dines, often hold the bason for 
him to wash, and serve him at tablet Customs like these, which 
the Europeans rightly call barbarous, and exclaim against with 
justice, appear so natural here, that they do not suspect it can be 

* Sarah who prepared the dinner for Abraham and his guests, sat not at table/ 
but remained in her tent. 

\ I lately dined with an Italian, who had married an Egyptian woman, and as- 
sumed their manners, having long lived in that country. His wife and sister-in- 
law stood in my presence, and it was with difficulty I prevailed an them to si* 
aft. table with us, where they were extremely timid and disconcerted*. 



112 THE FLOWERS OP 

otherwise elsewhere. Such is the power of habit over man. - 
What has been for ages, he supposes a law of nature. ■ 

Though thus employed, the Egyptian women have much- 
leisure, which they spend among their slaves, embroidering sashes, 
making veils, tracing designs to decorate their sofas, and in spin- 
ning. Such Homer painted the women of his times. 

"But not as yet the fatal news had spread 
"To fair Andromache of Hector dead; 
"As yet no messenger had told his fate, 
"Nor e'en his stay without the Scsean gate. 
''Far in the close recesses of the dome, 
"Pensive she ply'd the melancholy loom; 
"A growing work employ'd her secret hours, 
'Confus'dly gay with intermingled flow'rs, 
"Her fair-hair'd handmaids heat the brazen urn, 
"The bath preparing for her lord's return " 

Pope's Iliad, Lib. 22, 

Telemachus, seeing Penelope speak to the suitors on affairs to 
which he thought her incompetent, says — 

"O royal mother! ever honour'd name! 
''Permit me, cries Telemachus, to claim 
"A son's just right. No Grecian prince but I 
"Has pow'r this bow to grant, or to deny. 
"Of all that Ithaca's rough hills contain, 
"And all wide Elis' courser-breeding plain, 
"To me alone my father's arm descend; 
"And mine alone they are to either give or lend. 
"Retire, oh queen! thy household task resume, 
"Tend with thy maids the labours of the loom; 
"The bow, the dart; and arms of chivalry, 
"These cares to man belongs, and most to me." 

Pope's Odyssey, Lib. 21 . 

The queen, far from being offended at this freedom, retired, 
admiring the manly wisdom of her son. 

Labour has its relaxations. Pleasure is not banished the ha- 
rem. The nurse recounts the history of past times, with a feel- 
ing which her hearers participate. Cheerful and passionate songs 
are accompanied by the slaves, with the tambour de basque and 
castanets. Sometimes the Almai come, to enliven the scene with 
their dances and affecting recitals, and by relating amorous ro- 
mances; and at the close of the day, there is a repast, in which 
exquisite fruits and perfumes are served with profusion. Thus 
do they endeavour to charm away the dullness of captivity. 

Not that they are wholly prisoners; once or twice a week they 
are permitted to go to the bath, and visit female relations and 
friends. To bewail the dead, is likewise, a duty they are allow r ed 
to perform. I have often seen distracted mothers round Grand 
Cairo, reciting funeral hymns over the tombs they had strewed 



CELT!TinATET> TRAVELLERS." 113 

with odoriferous plants. Thus Hecuba and Andromache lamented 
over the body of Hector; and thus Fatima and Sophia wept over 
Mahomet. 

"0 my father! (said Fatima) minister of the most High! pro- 
phet of the most merciful God! and art thou gone? with thee 
divine revelation is gone also! the angel Gabriel has, henceforth, 
forever taken his flight into the high heavens! Power Supreme! 
hear my last prayer; hasten to unite my soul to his; let me be- 
hold his face; deprive me not of the fruit of his righteousness, 
nor of his intercession at the day of judgment." 

Then taking a little of the dust from the coffin, and putting it 
fo her face, she adds, 

"Who, having smelt the dust of his tomb, can ever find odour 
in the most exquisite perfumes! Alas! agreeable sensations are 
all extinct in my heart! the clouds of sorrow envelope me, and 
will change the brightest clay to dismal night!" 

This custom was not unknown to the Romans. They had 
their funeral urns strewed with cypress. How charmingly does 
the elegant Horace shed flowers over that of Quinctilius! how 
affecting, how passionate, is the ode he addresses to Virgil on 
the death of their common friend. 

er Wherefore restrain the tender tearl" 
"Why blush to weep for one so dear? 
"Sweet muse of melting 1 voice and lyre s 
"Do thou the mournful song inspire, 
"Quinctilius — sunk to endless rest, 
"With death's eternal sleep opprestj 
"Oh! when shall faith, of soul sincere, 
"Of justice pure, the sister fair, 
"And modesty, unspotted maid, 
"And truth in artless guise array'd, 
"Among the l'ace of human kind, 
"An equal to Quinctilius find? 
"How did the good, the virtuous mourn* 
"And pour their sorrows o'er his urn^ 
"But Virgil, thine the loudest strain, 
"Yet all thy pious grief is vain. 
"In vain do you the gods implore, 
"Thy lov'd Quinctilius to restore; 
*< Whom on far other terms they gave* 
^By nature fated to the grave, 
"What though you can the lyre command, 
"And sweep its tones with softer hand 
"Than Orpheus, whose harmonious song 
''Once drew the listening trees along, 
"Yet ne'er returns the vital heat, 
"The shadowy form to animate; 
"For when the ghost compelling god 
'"Forms his black troops with horrid rod, 
"He will not, lenient to the breath 
"Of prayer, unbar the gates of death. 
"'Tis hard, but patience must endure, 
"And soothe the woes it cannot cure-" 

Francis's Horace, Lib. 1. 04. ?•$. 

15 



1,14 TSE FLOWERS OP 

Among European nations, where ties of kindred are much re- 
laxed, they rid themselves all they can of the religious duties 
which ancient piety paid the dead; hut the reason why we die 
unregretted, is because we have had the misfortune to live un- 
beloved. 

The Egyptian women receive each other's visits very affection- 
ately. When a lady enters the harem, the mistress rises, takes 
her hand, presses it to her bosom, kisses, and makes her sit down 
by her side; a slave hastens to take her black mantle; she is en- 
treated to be at ease, quits her veil and her outward shift," and 
discovers a floating robe, tied round the waist with a sash, which 
perfectly displays her shape. She then receives compliments ac- 
cording to their manner. "Why, my mother, or my sister, have 
you been so long absent? We sighed to see you! Your presence 
is an honour to our house! It is the happiness of our lives!"t 

Slaves present coffee, sherbet, and confectionery. They laugh, 
talk, and play. A large dish is placed on the sofa, on which are 
oranges, pomegranates, bananas, and excellent melons. Water, 
and rose-water mixed, are brought in an ewer, and with them, a 
silver bason to wash the hands, and loud glee, and merry conver- 
sation season the meal. The chamber is perfumed by wood of 
aloes, in a brazier; and, the repast ended, the slaves dance to the 
sound of cymbals, with whom the mistresses often mingle. At 
parting they several times repeat, God-keep you in health! Hea- 
ven grant you a numerous offspring! Heaven preserve your chil- 
dren; the delight and glory of your family! 

While a visitor is in the harem, the husband must not enter; 
it is the asylum of hospitality, and cannot be violated without 
fatal consequences: a cherished right which the Egyptian women 
carefully maintain, being interested in its preservation. A lover, 
disguised like a woman, may be introduced into the forbidden 
place, % and it is necessary he should remain undiscovered; death 
would otherwise be his reward. In this country, where the pas- 
sions are excited by the climate, and the difficulty of gratifying 
them, love often produces tragical events. 

The Turkish women go, guarded by their eunuchs, upon the 
water also, and enjoy the charming prospects of the banks of the 
Nile. Their cabins are pleasant, richly embellished, and the boats 
well carved and painted. They are known by the blinds over 
the windows, and the music by which they are accompanied. 

When they cannot go abroad, they endeavour to be merry in 
their prison. Toward sun-setting they go on the terrace, and 

* A habit of ceremony which covers the dress and greatly resembles a shift. 
It is thrown off on sitting down, to be more at ease, and is called an Arabic camis* 

f Such titles as madam, miss, or mistress, are unknown in Egypt. A woman; 
advanced in years is called my mother; when young, my sister; and, if a girl, 
daughter of the house. 

* Hajjem. signifies a forbidden place, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 315 

take the fresh air among the flowers, .which are there carefully 
reared. Here they often hathe; and thus at once, enjoy the coo], 
limpid water, the perfume of odoriferous plants, the halmy air, 
and the starry host, which shine in the firmament. 

Thus Bathsheba bathed, when David beheld her from the roof 
of his palace. 

Such is the usual life of the Egyptian women. Their duties 
are to educate their children, take care of their household, 
and live retired with their family: their pleasures to visit, give 
feasts, in which they often yield to excessive mirth and licen- 
tiousness, go on the water, take the air in orange groves, and 
listen to Almai. They deck themselves as carefully to receive 
their acquaintance, as French women do to allure the men, 
Usually mild and timid, the}'' become daring and furious under 
the dominion of violent love. . Neither locks nor grim keepers 
can then prescribe bounds to their passions; which, though death 
be suspended o^er their heads, they search the means to gratify, 
and are seldom unsuccessful. Savaryji 



SECTION XXXVII. 

Of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. 

I AM persuaded that our physicians are under some mistake 
with regard to this climate. It is certainly one of the wannest 
in Italy;, but it is as certainly one of the most inconstant; and from 
what we have observed, disagrees with the greatest part of our 
valetudinarians; but more particularly with the gouty people, 
who have all found themselves better at Rome; which, though 
much colder in winter, is, I believe, a healthier climate. Na- 
ples, to be sure, is more eligible in summer, as the air is con- 
stantly refreshed by the sea breeze, when Rome is often scorch- 
ed by the most insupportable heat. 

We have some very agreeable society amongst ourselves here, 
though we cannot boast much of that with the inhabitants. 
There are, to be sure, many good people among them; but, in 
o-eneral, there is so very little analogy betwixt an English and 
Neapolitan mind, that the true sociarharmony, that great sweet- 
ener of human life, can seldom be produced. In lieu of this, 
(the exchange you will say, is but a bad one,) the country round 
Naples, abounds so much in every thing that is curious, both in 
nature and art, and affords so ample a field of speculation for the 
naturalist and antiquary, that a person of any curiosity may spend 
some months here very agreeably, and not without profit. 

Besides the discoveries of Herculaneum and Pompeia, which ot 
themselves afford a great fund of entertainment, the whole coast 
that surrounds this beautiful bay, particularly that near Fuzzoh,. 



116 THE FtOWESS 6P 

Cuma, Micenum and Baia, is covered with innumerable monuments 
of Roman magnificence. Eat, alas! how are the mighty fallen! 
This delightful coast, once the garden of all Italy, and inhabited 
only by the rich, the gay, and luxurious, is now abandoned to 
the poorest and most miserable of mortals. Perhaps there is no 
spot on the globe, that has undergone so thorough a change, or 
that can exhibit so striking a picture of the vanity of human gran- 
deur. Those ver}' - walls that once lodged a Cesar, a Lucullus, an 
Anthony, the richest and most voluptuous of mankind, are now 
occupied by the very meanest and most indigent wretches on 
earth, who are actually starved for want, in those very apart- 
ments that were the scenes of the greatest luxury. There we 
are told, that suppers were frequently given that cost fifty thous- 
and pounds; and some that even amounted to double that sum 

The luxury indeed of the Baians was so great, that it became a 
proverb, even amongst the luxurious Romans themselves; and at 
Rome, we often find them upbraiding with effeminacy and epicur- 
ism, those who spent much of their time in this scene of delights. 
Clodius throws it into Cicero's teeth more than once: and that 
orator's having purchased a villa here, hurt him not a little in the 
opinion of the graver and more austere part of the senate. The 
walls of these palaces still remain, and the poor peasants, in some 
places, have built up their miserable huts within them; but at 
present, there is not one gentlemen or man of fashion residing 
in any part of this country; the former state of which, compared with 
the present, certainly makes the most striking contrast imagina- 
ble. We rode over the greatest part of it in shooting porcupines, 
a new species of diversion, which I had never heard of before. 
We killed several of these animals on the Monte Barbaro, the 
place which formerly produced the Falernian wine, but now a 
barren waste. The novelty of this sport, was to me, its greatest 
merit; and I would not -at any time, give a day of partridge for 
a month of porcupine-shooting. Neither, indeed, is the flesh of 
these animals the most delicious in the world. It is extreme! y 
luscious, and soon palls upon the appetite. 

The bay of Naples, surrounded by the most beautiful scenery 
in the world, deserves a particular description. It is of a circular 
figure; in most places upwards of twenty miles in diameter, so 
that, including all its breaks and inequalities, the circumference 
is considerably more than sixty miles. The whole of this space 
is so wonderfully diversified, by all the riches both of art and nature, 
that there is scarce an object wanting to render the scene com- 
plete; and it is hard to say whether the view is more pleasing 
from the singularity of many of these objects, or from the incredible 
variety of the whole. You see an amazing mixture of the ancient 
and modern; some rising to fame, and some sinking to ruin. Pa- 
laces reared over the tops of other palaces, and ancient magnifi- 
cence trampled under foot by modern folly,— Mountains and 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 117 

islands, that were celebrated for their fertility, changed into bar- 
ren wastes, and barren wastes into fertile fields and rich vine- 
yards. Mountains sunk into plains, and plains swelled into moun- 
tains. Lakes drank up by volcanoes, and extinguished volcanoes 
turned into lakes. The earth still smoking in many places, and 
in others throwing out flames. In short, nature seems to have 
formed this coast in her most capricious mood, for every object 
is a lusus naturae. She never seems to have gone seriously to 
work; but to have devoted this spot to the most unlimited indul- 
gence of caprice and frolic. 

The bay is shut out from the Mediterranean by the island of 
Capre, so famous for the abode of Augustus; and afterwards so fa- 
mous for that of Tiberius. A lit tie to the west lie those of Ischia, 
Procida, and Nisida; the celebarted promontory of Miseivum, 
where ./Eneas landed; the classic fields of Baia, Cuma, andJPuzzoli, 
with all the variety of scenery that formed both the Tartarus and 
the Elysium, of the ancients; the Campi Phlegrasi; or burning plains 
where Jupiter overcame the giants; the Monte Nuovo formed of 
late years by fire; the Monte Bar baro; the picturesque city Puzzoli, 
with the Solfaterra smoking above it; the beautiful promontory of 
Pausilippo, exhibiting the finest scenery that can be imagined; the 
great and opulent city of Naples, with its three castles, its harbour 
full of ships from every nation, its palaces, churches, and convents 
innumerable. The rich country from thence to Portici, covered 
with noble houses and gardens, and appearing only a continuation 
of the city. The palace of the king, with many others surround- 
ing it, all built over the roofs of those of Herculaneum, buried near 
a hundred feet by the eruptions of Vesuvius. The black fields of 
lava that have run from that mountain, intermixed with gardens, 
vineyards, and orchards. Vesuvius itself, in the back ground of 
the scene, discharging volumes of fire and smoke, and forming a 
broad track in the air over our heads, extending, withoul being 
broken or dissipated, to the utmost verge of the horizon: a variety 
of beautiful towns and villages, round the base of the mountain, 
thoughtless of the impending ruin that daily threatens them. Some 
of these are reared over the very roofs of Pompeia and Stabia, 
where Pliny perished, and with their foundations have pierced 
through the sacred abodes of the ancient Romans; thousands of 
whom lie buried here, the victims of this inexorable mountain. 
Next follow the extensive and romantic coast of Castello Mare, Sor- 
rentum, and Mola, diversified with every picturesque object in na- 
ture. It was the study of this wild and beautiful country that for- 
med our greatest landscape painters. This was the school of Pous- 
sin, and Salvator Rosa, but more particularly of the last, who com- 
posed many of his most celebrated pieces from the bold craggy rocks 
that surround this coast; and no doubt it was from the daily con- 
templation of these romantic objects, that they stored their minds 
with that variety of ideas they have communicated to the world 
with such elegance in their works, 



IIS THE EL0WEHS OE 

Now, should I say that this extensive coast, this prodigious va- 
riety of mountains, valleys, promontories, and islands, covered 
with an everlasting verdure, and loaded with the richest fruits, is 
all the produce of subterraneous fire; it would require, I am afraid, 
too great a stretch of faith to believe mc; yet the fact is certain, and 
can Only be doubted by those who have wanted time or curiosity 
to examine it. It is strange, one may say, that nature should make 
use of the same agent to create as to destroy; and that what has on- 
ly been looked upon as the consumer of countries, is in fact the 
very power that produces them. Indeed, this part of our earth seems 
already to have undergone the sentence pronounced upon the whole 
of it; but, like the phoenix, has risen again from its own ashes, in 
much greater beauty and splendour than before it was consumed. 
The traces of these dreadful conflagrations are still conspicuous in 
every corner; they have been violent in their operations, but in the 
end have proved salutary in their effects. The fire in many places 
is not yet extinguished, but Vesuvius is now the only spot where 
it rages with any degree of activity. # Brydoxe, 



SECTION XXXVIII. 

Of Strombolo. 

THE Lipari islands are very picturesque, and several of them 
still emit smoke, particularly Volcano and Volcanello; but nene of 
them, for some ages past, except Strombolo, have made eruptions 
of fire. It appears to be a volcano of a very different nature from 
Vesuvius, the explosions of which succeed one another with some 
degree of regularity, and have no great variety of duration. I can- 
not account for the variety of Strombolo. — Sometimes its explo- 
sions resemble those of Vesuvius, and the light seems only to be 
occasioned by the quantity of fiery stones thrown into the air; and 
as soon as these have fallen down, it appears to be extinguished, 
till another explosion causes afresh illumination. This I have ob- 
served always to be the case with Vesuvius, except when the lava 
has risen to the summit of the mountain, and continued without 
variety to illuminate the air round it. The light from Strombolo 
evidently depends on some other cause. Sometimes a clear red 
flame issues from the crater of the mountain, and continues to blaze 
without interruption, for near the space of half an hour. The fire 
is of a different colour from the explosions of stones, and is evident- 
ly produced from a different cause. It would seem as if some in- 
flammable substance were stiddenly kindled up in the bowels of 
the mountain. 

The crater of Strombolo seems to be different from that of Ve- 
suvius, and all the old volcanoes that surrounded Naples. Of 
these, the craters are without exception in the centre, and form the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS.' 119 

highest part of the mountain. That of Strombolo is on its side, 
•and not within two hundred yards of its summit. From the 
crater to the sea, the island is entirely composed of the same sort 
of ashes and burnt matter as the conical part of Vesuvius; and the 
quantity of this matter is perpetually increasing, from the unin- 
terrupted discharge from the mountain; for of all the volcanoes 
we -read of, Strombolo seems to be the only one that burns with- 
out ceasing. iEtna and Vesuvius often lie quiet for many months, 
even years, without the least appearance of fire; but Strombolo 
is ever at work, and for ages past has been looked upon as the 
great light-house of these seas. 

It is truly wonderful, how such a constant and immense fire 
is maintained, for thousands of years, in the midst of the ocean! 
that of the other Lipari islands seem now almost extinct, and 
the force of the whole to be concentrated in Strombolo, which 
acts as one great vent to them all. We still observe Volcano and 
Volcanello throwing out volumes of smoke, but during the whole 
night we could not perceive the least spaik of fire from either of 
them. 

It is probable, that Strombolo, as well as all the rest of these 
islands, is originally the work of subterraneous fire. The matter 
of which they are composed, in a manner demonstrates this; and 
many of the Sicilian authors confirm it. There are now eleven 
of them in all, and none of the ancients mention more than seven. 
Fazzello one of the best Sicilian authors, gives an account of the 
production of Volcano, now one of the most considerable of these 
islands. He says it happened in the early time of the republic^ 
and is recorded by Eusebius, Pliny, and others. Pie adds, that 
even in his time, in the beginning of the sixteenth century, it 
still discharged quantities of fire and of pumice stones; but that 3 
in the preceding eentury, tbere had been a very great eruption 
of this island, which shook all Sicily, and alarmed the coast of 
Italy as far as Naples. He says the sea boiled all around the 
island, and rocks of a vast size were discharged from the crater: 
that fire and smoke in many places pierced through the waves, 
and that the navigation amongst these islands was totally changed; 
rocks appearing where it was formerly deep water; and many of 
the straits and shallows were entirely filled up. He observes, that. 
Aristotle, in his book on meteors, takes notice of a very early 
eruption of this island, by which not only the coast of Sicily, but 
likewise many cities in Italy were covered with ashes. It has 
probably been that very eruption which formed the island. He 
describes Strombolo to have been, in his time, pretty much the 
same as at this day; only that it then produced a great quantity 
of cotton, which is not now the case. The greatest part of it ap- 
pears to be barren. On the north side there aTe a few vineyards: 
but they aye .very meagre, Brydqpie^ 



120 THE FLOWERS OP 



SECTION XXXIX. 

An Account of tlic Eruption of Mount Vesuvius, ivhich 
happened in August, 1779. 

AS many poetical descriptions of this eruption will not be want- 
ing, I shall confine mine to simple matter of fact, in plain prose, 
and endeavour to convey to my readers, as clearly and distinctly 
as I am able, what I saw myself, and the impression it made upon 
me at the time, without aiming in the least at a flowery style. 

The usual symtoms of an approaching eruption, such as rumb- 
ling noises and explosions within the bowels of the volcano, a 
quantity of smoke issuing with force from its crater, accompanied 
at times with an emission of red hot scoriae and ashes, were mani- 
fest, more or- less, during the whole month of July; and, towards 
the end of the month, those s}miptoms were increased to such a 
degree, as to exhibit in the night-time the most beautiful fire- 
works that can be imagined. 

These kinds of throws of red-hot scoriae, and other volcanic 
matter, which at night are so bright and luminous, appear in broad 
day-light like so many black spots in the midst of the white smoke; 
and it is this circumstance which occasions the vulgar and false 
supposition, that volcanoes burn much more during the night than 
in the day-time. 

On Thursday, the fifth of August, about two o'clock in the af- 
ternoon, I perceived from my villa at Pausilippo, in the bay of 
Naples, from whence one has a full view of Vesuvius (which is 
just opposite, and at the distance of about six miles in a direct line 
from it,) that the volcano was in a most violent agitation. A while 
and sulphureous smoke issued continually and impetuously from 
its crater, one puff impelling another, and, by an accumulation of 
those clouds of smoke, resembling bales of the whitest cotton, such 
a mass of them was soon piled over the top of the volcano, as ex- 
ceeded the height and size of the mountain itself at least four times. 
In the midst of this very white smoke, an immense quantity of 
stones, scoria 1 , and ashes, were shot up &o a wonderful height, 
certainly not less than two thousand feet. I could also perceive, 
by the help of one of Ramsden's most excellent refracting teles- 
copes, at times, a quantity of liquid lava, seemingly very weighty, 
just heaved up high enough to clear the rim of the crater, and 
then take its course impetuously down the steep side of Vesu- 
vius, opposite to Somma. Soon after, the lava broke out on the 
same side, from about the middle of the conical part of the vol- 
cano, and, having run with violence some hours, ceased sudden- 
ly, just before it had arrived at the cultivated parts of the moun- 
tain, above Portici, near four miles from the spot where it issued. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 121 

During this clay's eruption, as I have heen credibly informed 
since, the heat was intolerable at the towns of Somma and Ot- 
taianQj- that the air was darkened in such a manner, as that objects 
could not be distinguished at the distance of ten feet. Long fila- 
ments of vitrified matter, like spun glass, were mixed, and fell 
with these ashes; and the sulphureous smoke was so violent that 
several birds, in cages, were suffocated, and the leaves of the 
trees in the neighbourhood of Somma and Ottaiano, were covered 
with white salts, very corrosive. About two o'clock in the af- 
ternoon, an extraordinary globe of smoke, of a. very great diame- 
ter, was distinctly perceived by many of the inhabitants of Por- 
tici, to issue from the crater of Vesuvius, and proceed hastily 
towards the mountain of Somma, against which it struck and dis- 
persed itself, having left a train of white smoke, marking the 
course it had taken. This train I perceived plainly from my 
villa, as it lasted some minutes; but I did not see the globe it- 
self. 

A poor labourer, who was making faggots on the mountain of 
Somma, lost his life at this time; and his body not having been 
found, it is supposed that, suffocated by the smoke, he must have 
fallen into the valley, from the craggy rocks on which he was at 
work, and been covered by the current of lava, that took its 
course through that valley soon after. An ass, that was waiting 
for its master in the valley, left it very judiciously, as soon as the 
mountain became violent, and arriving safe home, gave the first 
alarm to this poor man's family. 

It was generally remarked, that the explosions of the volcano 
were attended with more noise during this day's eruption, than, 
in any of the succeeding ones, when, most probably, the mouth 
of Vesuvius was widened, and the volcanic matter had a freer 
passage. It is certain, however, that the great eruption of 1767, 
(which in every other respect was mild when compared to the 
late violent eruption,) occasioned ,much greater concussions in the 
air by its louder explosions. 

Friday, August the 6th, the fermentation in the mountain was 
less violent; but about noon there was a loud report, at which 
time it was supposed that a portion of the little. mountain within 
the crater had fallen in. At night the throws from the crater in- 
creased, and proceeded evidently from two separate mouths, 
which emitting red-hot scoriae, and in different directions, form- 
ed a most beautiful and almost continued fire-work. 

On Saturday, August the 7th, the volcano remained much in 
the same state; but about twelve o'clock at night its fermenta- 
tion increased greatly. The second fever-fit of the mountain may 
be said to have manifested itself at this time. I was watching 
its motions from the mole of Naples, which has a full view of the 
volcano, and had been witness to several glorious picturesque ef- 
fects produced by the reflection of the deep red fire ; which issued 
16 



122 THE FLOWERS OF 

from the crater of Vesuvius, and mounted up in the midst of the 
huge clouds, when a summer storm, call d here a tropea, came,, 
on svichlenl}', and blended its heavy watery clouds, with the. sul- 
phureous and mineral ones, which were already like so many 
other mountains, piled over the summit of the volcano. At this 
moment, a fountain of fire was shot up to an incredible height, 
casting so bright a light, that the smallest objects could be 
clearly distinguished at any place within six miles or more of 
Vesuvius. 

The black stormy clouds passing swiftly over, and at times 
covering the whole, or a part of the fright column of fire, at 
other times clearing away, and giving a full view of it, with 
the various tints produced by its reverberated light on the white 
clouds above, in contrast with the pale flashes of forked lightning 
that attended the tropea, formed such a scene, as no power of art 
can ever express. 

That which followed the next evening, was surely much more 
formidable and alarming; but this was more beautiful and sub- 
lime than even the most lively imagination can paint to itself. 
This great explosion did not last above eight or ten minutes, 
after which Vesuvius was totally eclipsed by the dark clouds, and 
there fell a heavy shower of rain. 

Some scoriae and small stones fell at Ottaiano during this erup- 
tion, and some of a very great size in the valley between Vesu- 
vius and the Hermitage. All the inhabitants of the towns at the 
foot of the volcano were in the greatest alarm, and preparing to 
abandon their houses, had the eruption continued longer. 

One of his Sicilian majesty's game-keepers, who was out in 
the fields near Ottaiano, whilst this combined storm was at its 
height, was greatly surprised to find the drops of rain scald his 
face and hands, which phcenomenon was probably occasioned by 
the clouds having acquired a great deal of heat in passing through 
the above mentioned column of fire. The king of Naples did 
me the honour of informing me of this curious circumstance. 

Sunday, August the 8th, Vesuvius was quiet till towards six 
o'clock in the evening, when a great smoke began to gather again 
over its crater, and, about an hour after, a rumbling subterrane- 
ous noise was heard in the neighbourhood of the volcano; the 
usual throws of red-hot stones and scoria?, began, and increased 
every instant. I was at this time at Fausilippo, in the company 
of several of my countrymen, observing with good telescopes the 
curious phcenomena in the crater of Vesuvius," which, with such 
help, we could distinguish as well as if we had been actually 
seated on the summit of the volcano. The crater seemed much 
enlarged by the violence of last night's explosions, and the little 
mountain no longer existed. About nine o'clock there was a 
loud report, which shook the houses of Portici and its neighbour- 
hood to such a degree, as to- alarm their inhabitants, and drive 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. £2,3- 

them out into the streets; and, as I have since seen, many win- 
dows were broken, and walls cracked, by the confusion of the air 
from that explosion, though faintly heard at Naples. 

In an instant, a fountain of liquid transparent fire began to rise, 
and, gradually increasing, arrived at so amazing a height, as te 
strike every one who beheld it, with the most awful astonishment, 
I shall scarcely be credited when I affirm, that, to the best of my 
judgment, the height of this stupendous column of fire could not 
be less than three times that of Vesuvius itself, which rises per- 
pendicularly near 3700 feet above the level of the sea. 

Puffs of smoke, as black as can possibly be imagined, succeeded 
one another hastity, and accompanied the red-hot transparent and 
liquid lava, interrupting its splendid brightness here and there by 
patches of the darkest hue. 

Within these puffs of smoke, at the very moment of their 
emission from the crater, I could perceive a bright, but pale 
electrical fire, briskly playing about in zig-zag lines. 

The wind was S. W. and, though gentle, was sufficient to car- 
ry these detached clouds or puffs of smoke out of the column of 
fire; and a collection of them, by degrees, formed a black and ex- 
tensive curtain (if I may be allowed the expression,) behind i,t; 
in other parts of the sky it was perfectly dear, and the stars 
were bright. 

The fiery fountain, of so gigantic a size, upon the dark ground 
above-mentioned, made the most glorious contrast imaginable, and 
the blaze of it, reflected strongly on the surface of the sea, which 
was at that time perfectly smooth, added greatly to this sub* 
lime view. 

The liquid lava, mixed with stones and scorise," after having 
mounted, 1 verily believe, at the least, ten thousand feet, was 
partly directed by the wind towards Ottaiano, and partly falling 
almost perpendicularly, still red-hot and liquid, on Vesuvius, 
covered its whole cone, part of the mountain of Somma, and 
the valley between them. The falling matter being nearly as 
vivid and inflamed as that which was continually issuing fresh 
from the crater, formed with it one complete body of fire, which 
could not be less than two miles and a half in breadth, and of the 
extraordinary height above mentioned, casting a heat to the dis- 
tance of at least six miles round it, 

The brush-wood on the mountain of Somma was soon in a blaze; 
which flame, being of a different tint from the deep red of the 
matter thrown out of the volcano, and from the silvery blue of 
the electrical fire, still added to the contrast of this most extraor- 
dinary scene. 

The black cloud increasing greatly, once bent towards Naples, 
and seemed to threaten this fair city with speedy destruction; for 
it was charged with electrical matter, which kept constantly dart- 
ing about it in strong and bright zig-zags, just like those descrife- 



124 THE FLOWERS 01 

ed by Pliny the younger in his letter to Tacitus, and which 
accompanied the great eruption of Vesuvius that proved fatal 
to his uncle, "Ab altero latere, nubes atia et horrenda, igcni, 
spiritus tortis vibratisque discursibus rupta, in longas flam- 
marum figuras dehiscebat; fulgoribus illce et similes et majores." 

This volcanic lightning, however, and as I particularly remark- 
ed, very rarely quitted the cloud, but usually returned to the great 
column of fire towards the crater of the volcano from whence it 
originally came. Once or twice, indeed, I saw this lightning 
(or ferilla as it is called here) fall on the top of Somma, and set 
fire to some dry grass and bushes. 

Fortunately for us, the wind increasing from the S. W. quarter, 
carried back the threatening cloud just as it had reached the city, 
and began to occasion great alarm. All public diversions ceased 
in an instant, and the theatres being shut, the doors of the churches 
were thrown open. Numerous proeessions were- formed in the 
streets, and women and children, with dishevelled heads, filled 
the air with their cries, insisting loudly upon the relics of St. 
Januarius being immediately opposed to the fury of the mountain. 
In short the populace of this great city began to display its usual 
extravagant mixture of riot, and bigotry; and if some speedy and 
well-timed precautions had not been taken, Naples would, perhaps, 
have been in more danger of suffering from the irregularities of 
its lower class of inhabitants, than from the angry volcano. 

But to return to my subject. After the column of fire had con- 
tinued in full force near half an hour, the eruption ceased all at 
once, and Vesuvius remained sullen and silent. After the dazzling 
light of the fiery mountain, all seemed dark and dismal except 
one corner of Vesuvius, which was covered with glowing cin- 
ders and scoria?, from under which, at times, here and there, small 
streams of liquid lava had escaped, and rolled down the steep 
sides of the volcano. This scene put me in mind of Ma&'ial's 
description of JEtna. 

<c Cuncta jacent flammis et tristi mersa favilla." 

In the parts of Naples nearest Vesuvius, whilst the eruption 
lasted, a mixed smell like that of sulphur, with the vapours of an 
iron foundry, was sensible; but nearer to the mountain that smell 
was very offensive, as I have often found it in my visits to Vesu- 
vius during an eruption. 

Thus have I endeavoured to convey to my readers, at least a 
faint idea of a scene so glorious and sublime, as perhaps may have 
never before been viewed by human eyes, at least in such perfec- 
tlon - Sir W. Hamilton*. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 12? 

SECTION XL. 
Of Mount JEjna. May 29, 1770. 

A FEW clays ago.. we set off to visit Mount iEtna, that vcne- 
Vable and respectable father of mountains. His base, and his im- 
mense declivities, are covered over with a numerous progeny of 
his own; for every great eruption produces a new mountain; and 
perhaps, by the number of these, better than by any other method, 
the number of eruptions, and the age of iEtna itself, might be 
ascertained. 

The whole mountain is divided into three distinct regions, cal- 
led La JRegione Gnlta, pr Piedmoniese, The Fertile Region; 
La JRegione Sylvosa, or Nemorosa, The Woody Region; La 
Regione Deserta, or S'cope?'ta, The Barren Region. 

These three are different, both in climate and productions, as 
the three zones' of the earth, and perhaps with equal propriety, 
might have been styled the Torrid, the Temperate, and the Frigid 
zone. The first region surrounds the foot of the mountain, and 
constitutes the most fertile country in the world on all sides of it, 
to the extent of about fourteen or fifteen miles, where the woody 
region begins. It is composed almost entirely of lava, which, 
after a number of ages, is at last converted into the most fertile of 
all soils. ~ 

At Nicolosi, which is t\\*lve miles up the mountain, we found 
the barometer at 27 1^; at Catania it stood at 29 8|: although the 
former elevation is not veiy great, probably not exceeding 3000 
feet, yet the climate was totally changed. At Catania the harvest was 
entirely over, and the heats were insupportable; here they were mo- 
derate; and in many places the corn is, as yet green The road 
for these twelve miles is the worst I ever travelled; entirely over 
old lavas and the mouths of extinguished volcanoes, now converted 
into corn-fields, vineyards, and orchards. 

The fruit of this region is reckoned the finest in Sicily, parti- 
cularly the figs, of which they have a great variety. One of these 
of a very large size, esteemed superior in flavor to all the rest, 
they pretend is peculiar to iEtna. 

The great eruption of 16G9, after shaking the whole country 
around for four months, and forming a very large mountain of 
stones and ashes, burst out about a mile above Menpelieri, and 
decending like a torrent, bore directly against the middle of that 
mountain, and (they pretend) perforated it from side to side. This 
however, I doubt, as it must have broken the regular form of the 
mountain, which is not the case. But certain it is, that it pierced 
it to a great depth. The lava then divided into. two branches; and 
surrounding this mountain, joined again on its south side; and 
laying waste the whole country betwixt that and Catania, scaled 



l^G >fllE I'LUWKUS OF 

the walls of thatcil)-, and poured its flaming torrent into the ocean. 
In its way, it is said to have destroyed the possessions of near 
30,000 people, and reduced them to beggary. It formed several 
hills where there was formerly valleys, and filled up a large lake* 
of which there is not now the least vestige to be seen. 

As the events of this eruption are better known than any other, 
they tell a groat many singular stories of it; one of which, however 
incredible it may appear, is well ascertained. A vineyard, be- 
longing to a convent of Jesuits, lay directly in its way: this vine- 
yard was formed on an ancient lava, probably a thin one, with a num- 
ber of caverns and crevice* under it. The liquid lava entering into 
these caverns, soon filled them up, and by degrees bore up the 
vineyard; and the Jesuits, who every moment expected to see it 
buried, beheld with amazement the whole field begin to move off. 
It was carried on the surface of the lava to a considerable distance: 
and, though the greatest part was destroyed, yet some of it re- 
mains to this day. 

We went to examine the mouth from whence this dreadful tor- 
rent issued; and were surprised to find it only a small hole, of about 
three or four yards diameter. The mountain from whence it 
sprung, I think is little less than the conical part of Vesuvius. 

There is a vast cavern on the opposite side of it, where people, 
go to shoot wild pigeons, which breed there in great abundance. 
The innermost parts of this cavern, are so very dismal and gloomy, 
that our landlord told us some people had lost their senses, from 
having advanced too far, imagining they saw devils and the spirits 
of the damned, for it is still very generally believed here, that 
iEtna.is the mouth of hell. 

We found a degree of wildness and ferocity in the inhabitants 
of this mountain, that I have not observed any where else. It 
was with much difficulty I could persuade them that we were not 
come to search for hidden treasures, a great quantity of which they 
believe is to be found in Monpelieri; and when I went to that 
mountain, they were I lien fully convinced that this was our in- 
tention. Two men followed me, and kept a close eye on every 
stept that I took; and when I lifted any bit of lava or pumice, 
they came running up, thinking it was something very precious; 
but when they observed they were only bits of stone, and that I 
put them into my pocket, they laughed heartily, talking to one 
another in their mountain jargon, which is unintelligible, even to 
Italians. However, as most of them speak Italian so as to be under- 
stood, they asked me what I was going to make of those bits of 
stone? I told him they were of great value in our country; that 
the people there had a way of making gold of them. At this 
they both seemed exceedingly surprised, |and spoke again in their 
own tongue. However, I found they did not believe me. One 
of them told me, if that had been true, I certainly would not have 
been so .ready in telling it. But, said he, if it is so, we will serve 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. i,27 

you forever, if you will teach us that art; for then we shall be 
the richest people on earth. I assured them, that I had not yet 
learned it myself, and that it was a secret known only to very 
few. They were likewise a good deal surprised to see me pull out 
of my pocket, a magnetical needle and a small electrometer, which 
I had prepared at Catania, to examine the electrical state of the air; 
and I was at first afraid they would have taken me for a conjurer, 
(which already happened amongst the Appenines,) but luckily that 
idea did not strike them. 

After leaving Nicolosi, and travelling for about an hour and a 
half over barren ashes and lava, we arrived on the confines of the 
Regione Sylvosa, or the Temperate Zone. As soon as we en- 
tered these delightful forests, we seemed to have got into another 
world. The air, which before was sultry and hot, was now cool 
and refreshing; and every breeze was loaded with a thousand 
perfumes, the whole ground being covered over with the richest 
aromatic plants. Many parts of this region are surely the most 
heavenly spots upon earth; and if iEtna resembles hell within, 
it may with equal justice be said to resemble paradise without. 

It is*indeed a curious consideration, that this mountain should 
re-unite every beauty and every horror: and, in short, all the 
most opposite and dissimilar objects in nature. Here you ob- 
serve a gulph that formerly threw out torrents of fire, now cov- 
ered with the most luxuriant vegetation; and from an object of 
terror, become one of delight. Here you gather the most deli- 
cious fruit, rising from what was but lately black and barren rock. 
Here the ground is covered with every flower; and we wander 
over these beauties, and contemplate this wilderness of sweets, 
without considering that hell, With all its terrors, is immediately 
under our feet; and that but a few yards separates us from lakes 
Of liquid fire and brimstone. 

But our astonishment still increases, on casting our eyes on the 
higher regions of the mountain. There we behold, in perpetual 
union, the two elements that are at perpetual war; an immense 
gulph of fire/ for ever existing in the midst of snows which it 
has no power to melt, and immense fields of snow and ice for 
ever surrounding this gulph of fire, which they have not power 
to extinguish. 

The woody region of jZEtna ascends for about eight or nine 
miles, and forms a zone or girdle, of the brighest green, all around 
the mountain. This night we passed through little more than 
the half of it; arriving some time before sunset at our lodgings, 
which was no other than a large cave, formed by one of the most 
ancient and venerable lavas. It is called La Spelonca dal Ca- 
priole, or the goats' cavern, because frequented by those animals, 
who take refuge there in bad weather. 

Here we were delighted with the contemplation of many grave 
and beautiful objects} the prospect on all sides is- immense: am 1 ; 



12S THE FL0WJEH6 Qh' 

we already seem to be lifted up from the earth, and to have got 
into a new world. 

After faking a comfortable nap in the cave, on a bed of leaves, 
we awoke about eleven o'clock; and melting down a sufficient quan- 
tity of snow, wc boiled our tea-kettle, and made a hearly meal, 
to prepare us for the remaining part of our expedition. We win 
nine in number; for we had our three servants, the Cyclon 
(our conductor,) and two men to take care of the mules. The 
Cyclops now began to display his great knowledge of the moun- 
tain, and we followed him with implicit confidence, lie conduct- 
ed us over "entres vast, and deserts wild," where scarce hu- 
man foot had ever trod; sometimes through gloomy forests, which 
by day-light were delightful; but now, from the universal dark- 
ness, the rustling of the trees, the heavy, dull bellowing of the 
mountain, the vast expanse of ocean stretched at an immense dis- 
tance below us, inspired a kind of awful horror. Sometimes we 
found ourselves ascending great rocks of lava, where, if our mule- 
should make but a false step, wo might be thrown headlong over 
the precipice. However, by the assistance of the Cyclops, we 
overcame all of these difficulties; and he managed matters sT> well, 
that in the space of two hours we found we had got above the 
regions of vegetation, and had left the forest of ./Etna far behind. 
These appeared now like a dark gloomy gulph below us, that 
surrounded the mountain. 

The prospect before us was of a very different nature; we 
beheld an expanse of snow and ice that alarmed us exceedingly, 
and almost staggered our resolution. In the centre of this, but 
still at a great distance, wc descried the high summit, of the moun- 
tain rearing its tremendous head, and vomiting out torrents of 
smoke. It indeed appeared altogether inaccessible, from the vast 
extent of the fields of snow and ice that surround it. Our diffidence 
was still increased by the sentiments of the Cyclops. He told us 
that it often happened, that the surface of the mountain being hot 
below, melted the snow in particular spots, and formed pools of 
water, where it was impossible to foresee our dangeY; that it like- 
wise happened, that the surface of the water, as well as of the 
snow, was sometimes covered with black ashes, that rendered it 
exceedingly deceitful; that, however, if we thought proper, he 
would lead us on with as much caution as possible.- According- 
ly, after holding a council of war, which people generally do 
when they are very much afraid, we detached our cavalry to the 
forest below, and prepared to climb the snow. The Cyclops, af- 
'ter taking a great draught of brandy, desired us to be of good 
cheer; that we had plent}*" of time, and might take as many rests 
as we pleased; that the snow could be little more than seven miles, 
and that wc certainly should be able to pass it before -sun-rise. 
Accordingly, taking each of us a dram of liquor, which soon re- 
moved every objection, wc began cur march. Buyjdoxf. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLER JJZ§ 

SECTION XLI. 

*'2 View of the Stars and Rising Sun from Mount JEtna. 

THE ascent" for some time was not steep; and as the surface of 
the snow sunk a little, we had tolerable good footing: but as it 
soon began to grow steeper, we found our labour greatly increase. 
However, we determined to persevere, calling to mind in the 
midst of our labour, that the emperor*Adrian, and the philosopher 
Plato, had undergone the same, and from the same motive too, to 
sec the rising sun from the top of ^Etna. After incredible la- 
bour and fatigue, but at the same time, mixed with a great deal of 
pleasure, we arrived before the dawn, at the ruins of an ancient 
structure called 11 Torre del Filosofo, supposed to have been, 
built by the philosopher Empedocles, who took up his habitation 
here, the better to study the nature of Mount iEtna. By others 
it is supposed to be the ruins of a temple of Vulcan, whose shop, 
all the world knows, (where he used to make excellent thunder- 
bolts and celestial armour, as well as nets to catch his wife when 
she went astray,) was ever kept in mount .ZEtna. Here we rest- 
ed ourselves for some time, and made a fresh application to our 
liquor bottle, which I am persuaded both Vulcan and Empedocles, 
had they been here, would have greatly approved of after such a 
march. 

I found the mercury had fallen to 20. 6. We had now time 
to pay our adorations in a silent contemplation of the sublime ob- 
jects of nature. The sky was clear, and the immense vault of 
the heavens appeared in awful majesty and splendour. We found 
ourselves more struck with veneration than below, and at first 
were at a loss to know the cause; till we observed with astonish- 
ment, that the number of stars seemed to be infinitely increased, 
and the light of each of them appeared brighter than usual. The 
whiteness of the milky way, was like a pure flame that shot across 
the heavens; and with the naked eye we could observe clusters 
of stars that were invisible in the regions below. We did not at 
first attend to the cause, nor recollect that we had now passed 
through ten or twelve thousand feet of gross vapour, that blunts 
and confuses every ray, before it reaches the surface of the earth* 
We were amazed at the distinctness of vision, and exclaimed to- 
gether, What a glorious situation for an observatory! Had Em- 
pedocles had the eyes of Galileo, what discoveries must he not had 
made! We regretted that Jupiter was not visible, as I am per- 
suaded we might have discovered some of his satellites with the 
naked eye, or at least with a small glass, which I had in my 
pocket. We observed a light a great way below us, on the 
mountain, which seemed to move amongst the forests, but whe- 
ther an Ignis Fatmcs, or what it wst's, I shall not pretend to say, 
17 



ISO THE TLOWERS OP 

We likewise took notice of several of those meteors, called Tail- 
ing Slars, which still appeared to he as rmich devoted ahove us, 
as when seen from the plain; so that, in all probability, those bo- 
dies move in regions much beyond the bounds that some philoso- 
phers have assigned to our atmosphere. 

After contemplating these objects for some time, we set off, 
and soon after arrived at the foot of the great crater of the moun- 
tain. This is of an exact conical figure, and rises equally on all 
sides. It is composed solely of ashes and other burnt materials, 
discharged* from the mouth of the volcano, which is in its cen- 
tre. This conical mountain is of a very great size, Its circum- 
ference cannot be less than ten miles. Here we took a second 
rest, as the greatest part of our fatigue still remained. The mer- 
cury had fallen to 40. 4|. We found this mountain excessively 
steep; and although it had appeared black, yet it was likewise 
covered with snow; but the surface (luckily for us,) was spread over 
with a pretty thick layer of ashes, thrown out from the crater. 
Had it not been for this, we never should have been able to get to 
the top, as the snow was every where frozen hard and solid, 
from the piercing cold of the air. 

In about an hour's climbing, we arrived at a place where there 
was no snow, and where a warm and comfortable vapour issued 
from the mountain, which induced us to make another halt. Here 
I found the mercury at 19. Q\. -The thermometer was fallen 
three degrees below the point of congelation; and before we left 
the summit of JEtna, it fell two degrees more, viz. to .27. — From 
this spot it was about three hundred yards to the highest summit 
of the mountain, where we arrived in full time to see the most 
wonderful and most sublime sight in nature. 

But here description must ever fall short; for no imagination 
has dared to form an idea of so glorious and so magnificent a 
scene. Neither is there, on the surface of this globe, any one 
point that unites so many awful and sublime objects. — The im- 
mense elevation from the surface of the earth, drawn as it were, 
to a single point, without any neighbouring mountain for the 
senses and imagination to rest upon, and recover from their as- 
tonishment in their way down to the world. This point or pin- 
nacle raised on the brim of the bottomless gulph, as old as the 
world, often discharging rivers of fire, and throwing out burning 
rocks, with a noise that shakes the whole island. Add to this, 
the unbounded extent of the prospect, comprehending the great- 
est diversity, and the most beautiful scene in nature, with the 
rising sun advancing in the east to illuminate the wondrous scene. 

The whole atmosphere, by degrees kindled up, and showed 
dimly and faintly the boundless prospect around. Both sea and 
land looked dark and confused, as if only emerging from their ori- 
ginal chaos, and light and darkness seemed still undivided; till 
the morning by degrees advancing, completed the separation. The 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, fSI 

Stars are extinguished, and the shades disappear. The forests^ 
which but now seemed black and bottomless gulphs, from whence 
no ray was reflected to show their form or colours, appear a new 
creation rising to the sight, catching life and beauty from every 
increasing "beam. The scene still enlarges, and the horizon seems 
to widen and expand itself on all sides; till the sun, like the great 
Creator, appears in the east, and with his plastic ray completes 
the mighty scene.— All appears enchantment, and it is with diffi- 
culty we can believe we are still on earth. The senses, unaccus- 
tomed to the sublimity of such a scene, are bewildered and con- 
founded; and it is not till after some time, that they are capable of 
separating and judging of the objects that compose it. The body 
of the sun is seen rising from the ocean, immense tracts both of sea 
and land intervening; the islands of Lapari, Panari, Alicudij 
Strombolo, and Volcavo, with their smoking summits, appear un- 
der your feet; and you look down on the whole of Sicily as on a map, 
and can trace every river through all its windings, from its source 
to its mouth. The view is absolutely boundless on every side; nor 
is there any one object within the circle of vision to interrupt it; 
so that the sight is every where lost in the immensity: and I am 
persuaded it is only from the imperfection of our organs, that the 
coasts of Africa and even of Greece, are not discovered, as they 
are certainly above the horizon. The circumference of the visi- 
ble horizon on the top of .ZEtna cannot be less than 2000 miles. 
At Malta, which is near 200 miles distant, they perceive all the 
eruptions from the second region, and that island is often discov- 
ered from about one half the elevation of the mountain; so that at 
the whole elevation, the horizon must extend to near double that 
distance, or 400 miles, which makes 800 for the diameter of the 
circle, and 2400 for the circumference. Eut this is by much too 
vast for our senses, not intended to grasp so boundless a sCene. 

I find, indeed, by some of the Sicilian authors, particularly 
Massa, that the African coast, as well as that of Naples, with many 
of its islands, have been discovered from the top of iEtna. Of 
this, however, we cannot boast, though we can very well believe 
it Indeed., if we knew the height of the mountain, it would be 
easy to calculate the extent of its visible horizon, and (vice versa) 
if its visible horizon were exactly ascertained, it would be an easy 
matter to calculate the height of the mountain. 

But the most beautiful part of the scene is certainly the moun- 
tain itself, the island of Sicily, and the numerous islands lying 
round it. Ail these, by a kind of magic in vision, that I am at a 
loss to account for, seemed as if they were brought close round 
the skirts of iEtna, the distance appearing reduced to nothing. 
Perhaps this singular effect is produced by the rays of light passing 
from a rarer medium into a denser, which, (from a well known 
law it optics,) to an observer in the rare medium, appears to lift 
up the objects that are at the bottom of the dense one, as a piece 



13& THE FLOWERS OT 

of money placed in a bason, appears lifted up as soon as the bason 
is filled with water. 

The Regimie Deserta, or the frigid zone of ./Etna, is the first 
object that calls your attention. It is marked out by a circle of 
snow and ice, which extends on all sides to the distance of about 
eight miles. In the centre of the circle, the great crater of the 
mountain rears its burning head; and the regions of intense cold, 
iind of intense heat, seem forever to be united in the same point. 
On the north side of the snowy region, they assure us there are 
several small lakes that are never thawed; and that, in many places 
the snow, mixed with the ashes and salts of the mountain, is ac- 
cumulated to a vast depth. And indeed, I suppose the quantity 
of salts contained in this mountain, is one great reason of the pre- 
servation of its snows. 

The Regione Deserta is immediately succeeded by the Syl- 
vosa, or the woody region, which forms a circle or girdle of the 
most beautiful green, which surrounds the mountain on all sides, 
and is certainly one of the most delightful spots on earth. This 
presents a remarkable contrast with the desert region. It is not 
smooth and even like the greatest part of the latter; but it is fine- 
ly variegated by an infinite number of those beautiful little moun- 
tains that have been formed by the different eruptions of ./Etna. 
All these have now acquired a wonderful degree of fertility, ex- 
cept a very few that are but newly formed; that is, within these 
five or six hundred years: for its certainly requires some thousands 
to bring them to their greatest degree of perfection. We looked 
down into the craters of these, and attempted, but in vain, to num- 
ber them. 

The circumference of this zone, or great circle on iEtna, is not 
less than seventy or eighty miles. It is every where succeeded by 
the vineyards, orchards, and corn-fields, that compos* the Regione 
Culta, or the fertile region. This last zone is much broaded 
than the others, and extends on all side to the foot of the moun- 
tain. Its whole circumference, according to Recupero, is 1S3 
miles. It is likewise covered with a number of little conical and 
spherical mountains, and exhibits a Avonderful variety of form* 
and colours, and makes a delightful contrast with the other two 
regions. It is bounded by the sea to the south and south-east, and 
on all its other sides by the rivers Semetus and Alcantara, which 
run almost round it. The whole course of these rivers is seen at 
once, and all their beautiful windings through these fertile valleys. 
looked upon as the favourite possessions of Ceres herself, and the 
very scene of the rape of her daughter Proserpine. 

Cast your eyes a little farther, and you embrace the whole is- 
land, and see all its cities; rivers, and mountains, delineated in the 
greatest chart of nature: and the adjacent islands, the whole coast 
of Italy, as far as your eye can reach; for it is no where bounded, 
but every where lost in the space. On the sun's first rising, the 

•' #■ 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS.' 133 

shadow of the mountain extends across the whole island, and 
makes a large track, visible even in the sea and in the air. By 
degrees this is shortened, and in a little time is confined only to 
the neighbourhood of iEtna. 

We now had time to examine a fourth region of this wonder- 
ful mountain, very different indeed from the others^ and produc- 
tive of very different sensations; but which has, undoubtedly, 
given being to all the rest; I mean the region of fire. 

The present crater of this immense volcano, is a circle of about 
three miles and a half in circumference. It goes shelving down 
on each side, and forms a regular hollow like a vast amphitheatre. 
From many -places of this space, issue volumes of sulphureous 
smoke, which being much heavier than the circumambient air, 
instead of rising in it, as smoke generally does, immediately on 
its getting out of the crater, rolls down the side of the moun- 
tain like a torrent, till coming to that part of the atmosphere 
of the same specific gravity with itself, it shoots off horizontal- 
ly, and forms a large track in the air, according to the direction 
of the wind; which, happily for us, carried it exactly to the side 
opposite to that where we were placed. 

The crater is so hot, that it is very dangerous, if not impossible 
to go down into it; besides the smoke is very incommodious, and 
in many places, the surface is so soft, there have been instances of 
people sinking down into it, and pajnng for their temerity with 
their lives. Near the centre of the crater is the great mouth of the 
volcano: that tremendous gulph so celebrated in all ages, look- 
ed upon as the terror and scourge both of this and another life; 
and equally useful to ancient poets, or to modern divines, when 
the Muse or when the Spirit inspires. We beheld it with awe 
and with horror, and were not surprised that it had been con- 
sidered as the place of the damned. When we reflect on the im- 
mensity of its depth, the vast cells and caverns, whence so many 
lavas have issued; the force of its internal fire, to raise up those 
lavas to so vast a height, to support them, as it were, in the air, 
and even to force them over the very summit of the crater, with 
all their dreadful accompaniments; the boiling of the matter, the 
shaking of the mountain, the explosion of flaming rocks, &c. we 
must allow, that the most enthusiastic imagination, in the midst 
of all its terrors, hardly ever formed an idea of a hell more 
dreadful. 

It was with a mixture both of pleasure and pain, that we quit- 
ted this awful scene. But the wind had arisen very high, and 
elouds began to gather round the mountain. In a short time 
they formed like another heaven below us, and we were in hopes 
of seeing a thunder-storm under our feet; a scene that is not un- 
common in these exalted regions, and which I have already seen 
on the top of the high Alps. But the clouds were soon dispelled 



134. -nil: flowers of- 

ggain by the force of the wind, and we were disappointed in our 
expectations. 

I had often been told of the great effect produced by discharg- 
ing a gun on the top of high mountains. 1 tried it here, when 
we were a good deal surprised to find, that, instead of increasing 
the sound, it was almost reduced to nothing. The report was. 
not equal to that of a pocket-pistol. We compared it to the 
stroke of a stick on a door; and surely it is consistent with reason, 
that the thinner the air is, the less its impression must be on the 
ear: for in a vacuum there can be no noise, and the nearer the ap- 
proach to a vacuum, the impression must always be the smaller. 
Where those great effects have been produced, it must have been 
amongst a numher of mountains, where the sound is reverberated 
from om? to the other. Brydone. 



SECTION XLIL 

Of the Descent from Mount JEtna; of its Height; and of 
the Electricity of the Jiir near volcanoes. 

WE left the summit of the mountain about six o'clock, and 
it was eight at night before we reached Catania. We observed, 
both with pleasure and pain, the change of'the climate as we 
descended. From the regions of the most rigid winter, we soon 
arrived at those of the most delightful spring. On first entering 
the forests, the trees were still bare as in December, not a single 
leaf to be seen; but after we had descended a few miles, we found 
ourselves in the mildest, and the softest of climates; the trees in 
full verdure, and the fields covered with all the flowers. of the 
summer; but as soon as we got out of the woods, and entered the 
torrid zone, we found the heats altogether insupportable, and suf- 
fered dreadfully from them, before we reached the city. 

On our arrival ot Catania, we went immediately to bed, being 
exceedingly oppressed by the fatigue of our expedition; but still 
more by the violent heat of the day. 

.ZEtna has been often measured, but I believe never with any 
degree of accuracy; and it is really a shame to the society es- 
tablished in this place, called the iEtnean Acade,my, whose 
original institution was to study the nature and and operations of 
this wonderful mountain. It was my full intention to have 
measured it geometrically; but I am sorry to say, although this 
is both the seat of an academy and university, yet there was no 
quadrant to be had. Of all the mountains I have ever seen, iEtna 
would be the easiest to measure, and with the greatest certainty, 
and perhaps the properest place on the globe to establish an exact 
rule of mensuration by the barometer. There is a beach of a 
vast extent, that begins exactly at the foot of the mountain., and 



CELEBRATE*) TRAVELLERS. 135 

wins for a great many miles along the coast. The sea-mark on 
this beach, froms the meridian to the summit of the mountain. 
Here you are sure of a perfect level, and may make the base of 
your triangle of what length you please. But unfortunately this 
mensuration has never been executed, at least with any tolerable- 
degree of precision. 

Kircher, pretends to have measured it, and to have found it 
4000 French toises in height; which is more than any of the 
Andes, or indeed than any mountains upon the earth. The 
Italian mathematicians are still more absurd. Some of them 
make it eight miles, some six, and some four. 

Amid, the last, and I believe the best, who has made tfie attempt, 
reduces it to three miles, 264 paces; but even this must be ex- 
ceedingly erroneous; and probably the perpendicular height of 
iEtna docs not exceed 12,000 feel, or little more than two 
miles. 

I own I did not believe we should find iEtna so high as it, 
really is I had heard indeed that it was higher than any of the 
Alps, but I never gave credit to it. How great then was my 
astonishment to find that the mercury fell almost two inches 
lower than I had ever observed it on the very highest of the 
accessible Alps; at the same time I am persuaded there are many 
inaccessible points of the Alps, (particularly Mont Blanc) that 
are still much higher than iEtna. 

The wind, and other circumstances, in a great measure pre- 
vented our electrical experiments, on which we had built not a 
little; however I found that round Nicolosi, and particularly on 
the top of Monpelieri, the air was in a very favorable state for 
electrical operations. Here the little pith-balls, when insolated, 
were sensibly affected, and repelled each other above an inch. 
I expected this electrical state of the air would have increased as 
we advanced on the mountain; but at the cave where we slept, I 
could observe no such effect. Perhaps it was owing to the ex- 
halations from the trees and vegetables, which are exceedingly 
luxuriant; whereas about Nicolosi, and round Monpelieri, there 
is hardly any thing but lava and dry hot sand. Or perhaps it 
might be owing to the evening being farther advanced, and the 
dews beginning to fall. However, I have no doubt, that upon 
these mountains, formed by eruplion, where the air is strongly 
impregnated with sulphureous effluvia, great electrical discoveries 
might be made. And perhaps, of ajl the reasons assigned for 
the wonderful vegetation that is performed on this mountain, 
there is none that contribute so much towards it, as this con- 
stant electrical state of the air. For, from a variety of experi- 
ments, it has been found, that an increase of the electrical matter 
adds much te the progress of vegetation. It probably acts there 
in the same manner as on the animal body. The circulation, we 
know, is performed quicker; and the juices are driven through 



13G THE FLOWERS ul 

the small vessels with more ease and celerity. This has often 
been proved from the immediate removal of obstructions by- 
electricity; and probably the rubbing with dry and warm 

flannel, esteemed so efficacious in such cases, is doing nothing 
more than exciting a greater degree of electricity in the part; 
but it has likewise been demonstrated, by the common experi- 
ment of making water drop through a small capillary siphon, which 
the moment it is electrified, runs in a full stream. I have, in- 
deed, very little doubt, that the fertility of our seasons 
depends as much on this quality in the air, as either on its heat 
or moisture. 

Electricity will probably soon be considered as the great vi- 
vifying principle of nature, by which she carries on most of her 
operations: it is a fifth element, distinct from, and of a superior 
nature to, the other four, which only compose the corporeal 
parts of matter. But this subtile and active fluid is a kind of 
soul, that pervades and quickens every particle of it. When an 
equal quantity of this is diffused through the air, and over the face 
of the earth, every thing continues calm and quiet: but if by 
any accident one part of matter, has acquired a greater quantity 
than another, the most dreadful consequences often ensue before 
the equilibrium can be restored. Nature seems to fall into con- 
vulsions, and many of her works are destroyed: — all the great 
phaenomena are produced; thunder, lightning, earthquakes, and 
whirlwinds: for, I believe, there is little doubt, that all these 
frequently depend on this sole cause. And again, if we look 
down from the sublime of nature to its minutiae, we shall still 
find the same power acting, though perhaps in less legible char- 
acters; for as the knowledge of its operations is less in its infancy, 
they are generally misunderstood, or ascribed to some other cause. 
However, I have no doubt, that in process of time these will be 
properly investigated; when mankind will wonder how much they 
have been in the dark. It will then possibly be found, that what 
we call sensibility of nerves, and many of those diseases that the 
faculty have as yet only invented names for, arc owing to the body 
being possessed of too large or too small a quantity of this sub- 
tile and active fluid; that very fluid perhaps, which is the ve- 
hicle of all our feelings; and which they have so long searched 
for in vain in the nerves. For I have sometimes been led to think, 
that this sense was nothing else than a slighter kind of electric 
effect, to which the nerves serve as conductors; and that it is 
by the rapid circulation of this penetrating and animating fire 
that our sensations are performed. We all know, that in damp 
and hazy wheather, when it seems to be blunded and absorbed 
by the humidity; when its activity is lost, and little or none of 
it. can be collected; we never find our spirits more languid, and 
our sensibility less acute: but in the Sirocco wind at Naples, 
when the air seems totally deprived of it, the whole system is 



CELEBRATED TRAV*ELLEKS'7 137 

unstrung, and the nerves seem to lose both their tension and clas-- 
ticity, till the north or west wind awakens the activity of this ani- 
mating power, which soon restores the tone, and enlivens all na- 
ture, which seemed to droop and languish during its absence. 

It is likewise well known, that there have been instances of the 
human body becoming electric without the mediation of any elec- 
tric substance, and even emitting sparks of fire with a disagreea- 
ble sensation, and an extreme degree of nervous sensibility. 

About seven or eight years ago, a lady in Switzerland was af- 
fected in this manner, and though I was not able to learn all the 
particulars of her case, yet several Swiss gentlemen have confirm- 
ed to me the truth of the story. She was uncommonly sensible 
of every change of weather, and had her electrical feelings strong- 
est in a clear day, or during the passage of thunder-clouds, when 
the air is known to be replete with that fluid. Her case, like most 
others which the doctors can make nothing of, was decided to 
be a nerdous one; for the real meaning of that term I take to be 
only, that the physician does not understand what it is. 

Two gentlemen of Geneva had a short experience of the same 
sort of complaint, though still in a much superior degree. Pro- 
fessor Saussure and young Mr. Jalabert, when travelling over one 
of the high Alps, were caught amongst thunder-clouds, and to 
their utter astonishment, found their bodies so full of electrical 
fire, that spontaneous flashes darted from their fingers with a crack- 
ling noise, and the same kind of sensation as when strongly elec- 
trified by art. This was communicated by Mr. Jalabert to the 
Academy of Sciences at Paris, I think, in the year 1763; and 
you will find it recorded in their memoirs. 

It seems pretty evident, I think, that these feelings were ow- 
ing to the bodies being possessed of too great a share of electric 
fire. This is an uncommon case; but I do not think it at all im- 
possible, that many of our invalids, particularly the hypochondriac, 
and those we call Malades Imaginares, owe their disagreeable- 
feelings to the opposite cause, or the bodies being possessed of too 
small a quantity of this fire; for we find that a dimunition of it in 
the air, seldom fails to increase their uneasy sensations, and vice 
versa. 

Perhaps it might be of service to these people to wear some elee* 
trie substance next their skin, to defend the nerves and fibres from 
the damp, or non-electric air. I would propose a waistcoat of the 
finest flannel, which should be kept perfectly elean and dry; for 
the effluvia of the body, in ca,se of any violent perspiration, will 
soon destroy its electril quality. This should be covered by ano- 
ther of the same size, of silk. The animal heat, and the friction 
that exercise must occasion betwixt these two substances, produce 
a powerful electricity; and would form a kind of electric atmos?- 
phere around the body, and might possibly be one of the be^t pres- 
ervatives against the 'efFecp of dajnnps. 
IS 



2SS illE FLOWERS OV 

As for our Swiss lady, I have, little doubt that her complaints 
were owing in great part, peihaps entirely, to her dress; and that 
a. very small alteration would effectually have cured her. A lady 
who has her head surrounded with wires, and her hair stuck full 
of metal pins, and who at the same time stands upon dry silk, is 
to all intents and purposes, an electrical conductor insolated, and 
prepared for collecting the fire from the atmosphere. And it is 
not at all surprising that during thunder-storms, or when the air 
is extremely replete with electrical matter, she should emit sparks, 
and exhibit other appearances of electricity. I imagine a very 
trifling change of dress, which from the constant versatility of 
their modes may some day take place, would render this lady's 
disease altogether epidemical amongst the sex. Only let the soles 
of their shoes be of an electric substance, and let the wires of their 
caps, and pins of their hair be somewhat lengthened, and pointed 
outwards; and I think there is little doubt, that they will often 
find themselves in an electrified state. But, indeed, if they only 
wear silk, or even worsted stockings, it may sometimes prove 
sufficient; for I have often insolated electrometers as perfectly by 
placing them on a piece of dry silk or flannel, as on glass. 

How little do our ladies imagine, when they surround their 
heads with wire, the most powerful of all conductors, and at the 
sam»time wear stockings, shoes, and gowns of silk, one of the 
most powerful repellents, that they prepare their bodies in the 
same manner, and according to the same principles as electricians 
prepare their conductors, for attracting the fire of lightning! If 
they cannot be brought to relinquish their wire caps, and their 
pins, might they not fall upon some such preservative as those ; 
which of late years have been applied to objects of less conse- 
quence? 

Suppose that- every lady should provide herself with a small 
chain of wire, to be nocked on at pleasure during thunder-storms,, 
This should pass from her cap, over the thickest part of her hair, 
w r hich will prevent the fire from being communicated to her head; 
and so down to the ground. It is plain this will act in the same 
manner as the conductors on the tops of steeples, which from the 
metal spires that are commonly placed there, analagous to the pins 
and wires, were so liable to accidents. Some people may laugh 
at all this; but I never was more serious in my life. A very ami- 
able lady of my acquaintance, Mrs. Douglas, of Kelso, had almost 
lost her life by one of those caps mounted on wire. She was 
standing at an open window during a thunder-storm. The light- 
ning was attracted by the wire, and the cap was burnt to ashes; 
happily her hair was in its natural state, without powder, poma- 
tum, or pins; and prevented the fire from being conducted to her 
head; for as she felt no kind of shock, it. is probable that it went 
off from the wires of the cap to the wall, close to which she then 
stood. If it had found any conductor to carry it to her head or 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 139 

body, m all probability she must have been lulled. A good strong 
head of hair, if it is kept perfectly clean and dry, is probably one of 
the best preservatives against the fire of lightning. But so soon as 
it is stuffed full of po\Vder and pomatum, and bound together with 
"pins, its repellent force is lost, and it becomes a conductor. — But 
I beg pardon for these surmises. I throw them in the way of my 
readers only for them to improve upon at their leisure: for we 
have it ever in our power to be making experiments in electricity. 
And although this fluid is the most subtile and active of any we 
know, we can command it on all cxicasjons; and I am now so ac- 
customed to its operations, that I seldom comb my hair, or pull off 
a stocking, without observing them under some form or other. 
How surprising is it then, that .mankind should have lived and 
breathed in it for so many years, without almost ever supposing 
that it existed! But to return to our mountain. 

So highly electrical is the vapour of volcanoes, that it has been, 
observed in some eruptions both of .ZEtna and Vesuvius, that the 
whole track of smoke, which sometimes extended above an hun= 
dred miles, produced the most dreadful effects; killing shepherds 
and flocks on the mountains; blasting trees, and setting fire to 
houses, wherever it met with them on an elevated situation. Now 
probably the flying of a kite, with a wire round its string, would 
soon have disarmed this formidable cloud. These effects, how- 
ever, only happen when the' air is dry and little agitated; but 
when it is full of moist vapour, the great rarefaction from the heat 
of the lava generally brings it down in violent torrents of rain, 
which soon convey the electrical, matter from the clouds to the 
earth, and restore the equilibrium. Brydonje. 



SECTION XLIII. 

Of Modern Rome, 

A MAN, on his first arrival at Rome, is not much fired with 
its appearance. The narrowness of the streets, the thinness of 
the inhabitants, the prodigious quantity of monks and beggars, 
give but a gloomy aspect to this renowned city. There are no 
rich tradesmen here, who, by their acquisitions, either ennoble 
their sons, or marry their daughters into the houses of princes. 
All the shops seem empty, and the shop-keepers poor. This is 
the first impression. But turn your eye from that point of view 
to the magnificence of their churches, to the venerable remains of 
ancient Rome, to the prodigious collection of pictures and antique 
statues, to the very river and ground itself, formerly the habita- 
tion of that people, whom, from our cradles, we have been taught 
to adore, and, with a very few grains of enthusiasm in your com- 
position., you will feel more ttfan satisfied.. 



r,40 THE I LOWERS t^'4m>.- 

The surface of modern Rome is certainly moic elevated than it 
was in ancient times. .Such an alteration must happen, in the 
course of ages, to every city which has been often destroyed by 
time and fire, as all the rubbish is seldom removed; but the an- 
cient pavement, on which Trajan's pillar stands, shows the ejteva 
tion in that place not to be above seven or eight feet; and, I am 
informed, some of the triumphal arches are not above three 01 
four feet in the ground. The most remarkable change is this; thai 
the Campus Martins was, in the time of the ancient Romans, 
an open sera, and now is covered with houses. The circuit of the 
city, in Pliny's time, did not, by his account, exceed the present 
dimensions, but its populousness must have been amazingly dif- 
ferent. 

Were an an-tiquarian to lament over any fall, any metamor- 
phosis of ancient Rome, perhaps it might be the present state of 
the Forum, where now there is, every Thursday and Friday, a 
market for cows and oxen, on the very spot, where the Roman 
orators were accustomed to thunder out their eloquence in the 
cause of their clients, and their country, and their gods. Ac- 
cordingly, the Forum is now known by the name of Camps 
Vaccina. 

Surrounding the Forum, are many vestiges of antique grandeur, 
triumphal arches, remains of temples, the ruins of the Imperial 
Palace, the Campidoglio, &c. all bespeaking the magnificent state 
of Rome in the times of the emperors. The great Amphitheatre, 
called also // Colosseo, where the -spectacle of combats was exhi- 
bited, is also in its neighbourhood. In this place the spirit of 
modern Rome, seems to prevail over that of ancient Rome; for 
where the wild beasts and gladiators formerly entertained seventy 
or eighty thousand spectators, you now see a few miserable old 
women and beggars, who are praying at the feet of fourteen small 
chapels, which represent the fourteen mysteries of our Saviour's 
passion. 

The magnificence of the Roman Emperors, in embellishing the 
city, rose to such a height, that they ransacked all the quarries of 
Egypt for alabaster, granite, porphyry, and every kind of marble 
the country afforded; and though time and Gothic rage must have 
destroyed great quantities, yet, such was the profusion brought to 
Rome, that, besides the amazing number of columns, statues, 
vases, and tables, still preserved entire, you see the very posts in 
the streets, all of them without exception, made of granite, ala- 
baster, or marble. But the most stupendous sights of all, are the 
prodigious obelisks, consisting of only one piece of marble. I 
meditate on these objects till I am lost in wonder and confusion. 
We have no idea of the mechanical powers by which they were 
dug out of the quarry, and brought from Egypt. We are aston- 
ished at the enormous size of the stones at Stonehcnge, and can- 
not comprehend by what contrivance they were carried and laid 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 141 

n that form; but the largest, of them is small, when compared 
with the largest obelisk at Rome, which I think is one hundred 
and one feet long, and proportionably thick. 

The ruin of the triumphal bridge, near St. Angelo, is an object 
that cannot but strike a man of letters. This was the bridge over 
which every general marched into the city, to whom a triumph 
was decreed, either for the conquest of a province, or any other 
signal victory. From the time of Romulus to that of the em- 
peror Probus, there were about three.hundred and twenty of these 
triumphs. There are now only a few remains of the piers. Who 
can behold this seene, without ruminating on the nature of the 
human heart, and recollecting to what trials it must have been 
exposed, in the course of so proud and so flattering a proces- 
sion? 

Many qjf the churches in this city, and- above all St. Peter's, 
are so very magnificent, that they vie with ancient Rome in every 
article but that of durableness, much of their beauty being de- 
rived from pictures, stucco, and gilding, the transitory ornaments 
of two or three ages. I cannot forbear remarking, in this place,- 
that the pride of modern Rome is one of the causes of her wretch- 
edness. She boasts of her gold and silver lying dead, in her 
churches; but had that gold and silver a free circulation through 
the country, it would enliven trade, and furnish property to thou- 
sands, who are now starving in the most pressing indigence. 

S,t. Peter's never fails to please both the learned and unlearned 
eye. The wonderful regularity and adjustment of its parts, like 
the beauty of a fine face, demand no skill in drawing to taste its 
charms. Its colonades, fountains, and obelisk, give it an inimita- 
ble elegance. It must be confessed, however, that the approach 
to this noble edifice is confined and shabby; but they now talk of 
demolishing the narrow mean street leading from St. Angelo; and 
should this design take place, the avenue will be answerable to 
the building; though, to render St. Peter's church still more per- 
fect, the Vatican, with its eleven thousand chambers, should be 
removed, which, like an ugly excrescence, protuberates on one 
side, and destroys the symmetry of the elevation. 

In the Vatican, besides a great number of Raphael's paint- 
ings, are the excellent and celebrated statues of the Belvedere 
Apollo, the Laocoon and the Antinous. The Laocoon wants ail 
arm. There lies on the ground one of marble, which, it is said, 
Michael Angelo had begun, in order to perfect the statue, but 
perceiving how unspirited his work would appear, compared 
with the original, he left the limb in the state we see it, not 
half executed, a monument of his modesty and self-knowledge. 
It may be imagined that no one since, has been so presumptuous 
as to make an attempt after him, and therefore the deficiency is 
supplied by an arm of terca cuotcC, Sharp. 



14.3 TIIK FLU WEBS Oi 

SECTION XLFv , 

Of the Modern liumuua. 

IN their external deportment, the Italians have a grave soleni 
nity of manner, which is some times thought to arise from ; 
natural gloominess of disposition. The French, ahove all othei 
nations, are apt to impute to melancholy, the sedate serious air 
which accompanies reflection. 

Though, in the pulpit, on the theatre, and even in common 
conversation, the Italians make use. of a great deal of action; yet 
Italian vivacity is different from French: the former proceeds 
from sensibility, the latter from animal spirits. 

The inhabitants of this country have not the brisk look, and 
elastic trip, which is universal in France; they move rather with 
a slow composed pace. Their spines never having been forced 
into a straight line, retain the natural bend; and the people of 
the most finished fashion, as well as the neglected vulgar, s*eem 
to prefer the unconstrained attitude of the Antinous, and other 
antique statues, to the artificial graces of a French dancing -master, 
or the erect strut of a German soldier. I imagine I perceive a 
great resemblance between many of the living countenances I see 
daily, and the features of the ancient busts and statues; which 
leads me to believe, that there are a greater number of the genuine 
descendants- of the., old Romans in Italy, than is generally ima- 
gined. 

I am often struck with the fine character of countenance to be 
seen in the streets of Rome. I never saw features more expres- 
sive of reflection, sense, and genius. In the very lowest ranks 
there are countenances which announce minds fit for the highest 
and most important situations; and we cannot help regretting, that 
those to whom they belong, have not received an education 
adequate to the natural abilities we are convinced they possess, 
and been placed where these abilities could be brought into ac- 
tion. 

Of all the countries in Europe, Switzerland is that in which 
the beauties of nature appear in thegreatest variety of forms, and 
on the most magnificent scale. In that country, therefore, the 
young landscape painter has the best chance of seizing the most 
sublime ideas. But Italy is the best school for the history pain- 
ter, not only on account of its being enriched with the works of 
the greatest masters, and the noblest models of antique sculpture; 
but also on account of the fine expressive style of the Italian 
countenance- 
Strangers, on their arrival at Rome, form no high idea of the 
beauty of the Roman women,* from the specimens they see in the 
fashionable circles to which they are first introduced. There are 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. - 148 

some exceptions; but in general it must be acknowledged, that 
the present race of women of high rank are more distinguished 
by their other ornaments than by their beauty. Among the 
citizens, however, and the lower classes, you frequently meet 
with the most beautiful countenances. For a' brilliant red and. 
white, and all the charms of complexion, no women are equal to 
the English. If a hundred, or any greater number, of English- 
women were taken at random, and compared with the same num- 
ber of the wives and daughters of the citizens of Rome, I am con- 
vinced, that ninety of the English would 4)e found handsomer 
than ninety of the Romans; but the probability is, that two or 
three in the hundred Italians would have finer countenances than 
any of the English. English beauty is more remarkable in the 
country than in town. The peasantry of no country in Europe 
can stand a comparison, in point of looks, with those of England, 
That race of people, have the conveniencies of life in no other 
country in such perfection; they are no where so well fed, so 
well defended from the injuries of the seasons, and no where else 
do they keep themselves so perfectly clean, and free from all the 
vilifying effects of cliit. The English country girls, taken col- 
lectively, are unquestionably, the most handsomest in the world. 
The female peasants of most other countries, indeed, are so hard 
worked, so ill fed, so much tanned by the sun, and so dirty, that 
it is difficult to know whether they have any beauty or not. Yet 
I have been informed > by some amateurs, since I came here, that 
in spite of all these disadvantages, they sometimes find among; 
the Italian peasantry, countenances highly interesting, and which 
they prefer to all the cherry cheeks of Lancashire. 

Beauty, doubtless, is infinitely varied; and happily for man- 
kind, their tastes and opinions on the subject are equally various, 
Notwithstanding this variety, however, a style of face, in some 
measure peculiar to its own inhabitants, has been found to pre»- 
vail in each different nation of Europe. This. % peculiar counte- 
nance is again varied, and marked with every degree of dis- 
crimination between extremes of beauty and ugliness. I will 
give you a sketch of the general style of the most beautiful 
female heads in this country , from which you may judge whether 
they are to your taste or not. v 

A great profusion of dark hair, which seems to encroach upon 
the forehead, rendering it short and narrow; the nose generally 
either rquiline, or continued in a straight line from the lower 
part of the brow; a full and short upper lip; (by the way, nothing 
has a worse effect on a countenance, than a large interval between 
the nose and mouth;) the eyes are large, and of sparkling black. 
The black eye certainly labours under one disadvantage, which 
is, that from the iris and pupil being of the same colour, the con- 
traction and dilitation of the latter is not seen, by which the eye' 
is abridged of half it? powers, Yet fee-Italian eye 'f§ wonde/ ' I- 



144 THE FLOWERS o'i' • 

ly expressive; s,ome people think it says tott much. The com- 
plexion, for the most part, is of a clear brown, sometimes fair, 
out very seldom florid, or of that bright fairness which is com 
mon in England and Saxony. It must be owned, that those fea- 
tures which have a fine expression of sentiment and meaning in 
youth, are more apt than less expressive faces, to become soon 
strong and masculine. In England and Germany, the women, a 
little advanced in life, retain the appearance of youth longer than 
in Italy. Dr. Moore. 



SECTION XLV. 

Description of Pompey's Pillar, in the neighbourhood of 
•Alexandria, in Egypt, and an Jinecdofe of some English 
Sea Officers there. 

IN the afternoon, a large party of us sallied out to take a view 
of Pompey's Pillar, the theme of the present age, and the admira- 
tion of past times! Besides my companions and myself, we 
were joined by the two English commanders of the ships in the 
harbour, and Monsieur Meillon, and some young gentlemen of 
the French factory. We mounted the first asses that presented 
themselves for hire, and, attended by our Janizary, to'ok the course 
we pursued yesterday. We left the convent on our right, and 
presently came among broken arches and long pavements, which 
are the remains of an aqueduct. Several towers reared up their 
dismantled heads on each side of us, whose appearance pronounces 
ihem to have been posts of great importance ard t ?ngth. 

A number of stately pillars next engaged c. . attc r.ion. They 
are placed in two parallel lines, and seem to have formerly sup- 
ported some magnificent portico. The pillars are of granite, or 
Thebaic marble, and about thirty feet high, of a single stone; and 
we counted no less than thirty of them still standing. But how- 
ever choice these columns might be in any other place, they 
were but foils to the pillar which now appeared before us. We 
had been buried amid the ruins, and the hills of sand which the 
wind had thrown up, when leaving the city by the gate of Roseto, 
w r e came unexpectedly upon the pillar. It is impossible to tell 
which is most worthy of admiration, the height, the workman- 
ship, or the condition of this pillar. By the best accounts we can 
obtain, it is an hundred and ten feet high. The shaft, which is 
of a single stone of granite, is ninety feet, and the pedestal is 
twenty feet more. It is of the Corinthian order, which gives a 
beautiful dignity to its simplicity, rarely to be met with in mo- 
dern architecture. It has suffered little or no injury from time. 
The polish upon the shaft has wonderfully withstood the buffet- 
ing of the tempest; and promise? to hand down a patriot name to 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 145 

the late posterity of the ignorant native, who has no other trace of 
the fame of Pompey! The pedestal has been somewhat damaged 
by the instruments of travellers, who are curious to possess a relic 
of this antiquity: and one of the volutes of the column was imma- 
turely brought down about four years ago, by a prank of some 
English captains, which is too ludicrous to pass over. 

These jolly sons of Neptune had been pushing about the cann 
on board one of the ships in the harbour, until a strange freak en- 
tered into one of their brains. The eccentricity of the thought; 
occasioned it immediately to be adopted; and its apparent impos- 
sibility was but a spur for putting it into execution. The boat 
was ordered, and with proper implements for the attempt, these 
enterprising heroes pushed ashore to drink a bowl of punch on the 
top of Pompey's Pillar! At the spot they arrived, and many con- 
trivances were proposed to accomplish the desired point. But 
their labour was vain; and they began to despair of success, when 
the genius who struck out the frolic, happily suggested the means 
of performing it. A man was dispatched to the city for a paper 
kite. The inhabitants were by this time apprised of what was 
going forward, and flocked in crowds to be witnesses of the ad- 
dress and boldness of the English. The Governor of Alexandria 
Avas told, that these seamen were about to pull down Pompey's 
Pillar. But whether he gave them credit for their respect to the 
Roman warrior, or to the Turkish government, he left them to 
themselves, and politely answered, that the English were too great 
patriots to injure the remains of Pompey. 

He knew little, however of the disposition of the people who 
were engaged in this undertaking. Had the Turkish empire rose 
in opposition, it would not, perhaps, at that moment have deter- 
red them. The kite was brought, and flown so directly over the 
•pillar, that when it fell on the other side, the string lodged upon 
the capital. The chief obstacle was now overcome A two-inch, 
rope was tied to one end of the string, and drawn over the pillar 
by the end to which the kite was affixed. By this rope one of 
the seamen ascended to the top, and in less than an hour, a kind 
of shroud was constructed, by which the whole company went 
up, and drank their punch amid the shouts of the astonished mul- 
titude. 

To the eye below, the capital of the pillar does not appear ca- 
pable of holding more than one man upon it; but our seamen 
found it could contain no less than eight persons, very convenient- 
ly. It is astonishing that no accident befel these mad-caps, in a 
situation so elevated, as would have turned a landman giddy in 
his sober senses. The only detriment which the pillar received, 
was the loss of the volute before mentioned, which came down 
with a thundering sound, and was carried to England by one of 
the captains, as a present to a lady who commissioned him for a 
piece of the pillar. The discovery which they made, amply com- 
19 



146 THE FLOWERS OF 

pensated for this mischief; as without their evidence the world 
would not have known at this hour, that tliere was originally a 
statue on this pillar, one foot and ancle of which, are still remain- 
ing. The statue was probahly pf Pompey himself; and must 
have been of a gigantic size, to have appeared of a man's propor- 
tion at so great a height. 

There are circumstances in this story which might give it an 
air of fiction, were it not demonstrated beyond all doubt. Be- 
sides the testimonies of many eye witnesses, the adventurers 
themselves, have left us a token of the fact, by the initials of their 
names, which are very legible, in black paint, just beneath the 
capital, Irwi>~. 



SECTION XLVI. 
Of the Modem Persians. 

THE fhodern Persians are robust, Avarlike, and hardy, and are 
flow become all soldiers. They are naturally inclined to temper- 
ance; and, with regard to diet, seem to be more in a state of na- 
ture than the Europeans. By way of amusement, they use opiates, 
but not near so much as the Turks. They drink coffee in small 
quantities with the lees, also sheebets, and an infusion of cinna- 
jnon with sugar. Their simplicity of life generally renders their 
domestic expenses easy. The Persians, however, understand 
yery little of what we call prudence and economical government. 

In th*ir common discourses they often introduce moral sen- 
tences, and poetical narrations, extracted from their poets and 
other writers. It -was formerly their constant custom to entertain 
their guests with favourite passages out of their poets. Reflec- 
tion and repetition are the only means of strengthening or sup- 
porting the memory. Custom has made it a kind of pedantry in 
Europe to be frequent in the repetition of the wise sayings, 
either of the ancient or modern divines, philosophers, or poets. 
But if, from the nature of the human mind, we ever stand in 
need of a monitor, what office is more consistent than to render 
the wholesome rules of life familiar, by making them a part of 
our ordinary conversation? It might be wished, that this prac- 
tice were introduced among the Europeans, rather than the bar- 
renness of discourse we often find, or the irksome and pernicious 
amusement of cards. 

Now I have mentioned a circumstance so interesting to the 
great world in Europe, I must acknowledge that cards, in the 
original use of them, are as confessedly innocent as any other in- 
strument of diversion, to those who are at a loss for something 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 147 

ffioue rational;* yet in the manner now in fashion, they cannot 
but dissipate the thoughts in some, and enervate the mind in al- 
most every one who is closely attached to them. They must be a 
great means of feeding those passions which corrode tkp heart, and, 
warping the affections »rom their proper bias, oppose the establish- 
ment of virtue in the mind. We often see this verified, though 
few will confess it. Is it possible, in the nature of the thing, that 
those who give a constant application to this entertainment, es- 
pecially if they play high, can support tranquility of mind? And 
in proportion as the mind is disturbed, is it not disqualified for 
the essential duties of life? This matter is best understood by 
those very persons who play high, and consume their time in this 
polite idleness. The Persians seem to fall into the contrary ex- 
treme. They delight in sitting still, and musing. I never ob- 
served any of them walk in their apartments, as the Europeans, 
and particularly the English, are used to do. I remember to 
have heard of a Turk, who, being on board an English man of 
war, enquired very seriously if the people were troubled with an 
evil spirit? because, says he, "they never are at rest." 

The Persians are polite, hut extravagantly hyperbolical in their 
compliments. This indeed is peculiar to the Eastern nations; and 
the scripture which partakes so much of that style, is known 
to be derived from that quarter. The Persians were celebrated 
for a particular genius in poetry: but war, which has destroyed 
their morals and learning, seems also to have damped their poetic 
fire; though they have still, many traces of that fertility and 
strength of imagination, for which in past times they were de- 
servedly famous. The ancient Persians are recorded to have 
taught their children a most exact reverence for truth; but the 
present generation are as notorious for falsehood. They poison 
with a sweet-meat, in always saying what is pleasing, without 
regarding the truth. In their dispositions they are cheerful, but 
rather inclined to seriousness than loud mirth. In this they are 
not so much the French of Asia, as in their politeness and civil- 
ity to strangers. Hospitality is a part of their religion. On oc- 
casions of the least intercourse, men of any distinction invite 
strangers, as well as their friends, to their table; and it is -re- 
markable how they pride themselves in other testimonies 'of 
respect. 

The Persians, as well as the Turks, believe the Mosaic to have 
been the true religion before Christ, whom also they acknow- 
ledge to be a true prophet, and teacher sent from God; but that 
the religion he taught was contained in a book, which at Maho- 
met's coming, was taken by the angel Gabriel into heaven, and 
the Koran brought down in its stead. This, however, they do 

*1 have somewhere heard, that cards were invented by a French courtier, to 
amuse one of the kings of that nation, who was remarkably weafc. 



14S THE FL0WEUS OV 

not- attempt to prove. They say also, that Jesus Christ did not 
die upon the cross, but that another person was miraeulously 
brought there in his place; thus confessing the truth of our Sa- 
viour's mission, but confounding it with absurd fables. 

The common people pray at break of day, noon, and sun-set. 
The mullah, or High Priest, when he goes to prayer, mounts a 
turret appointed for that purpose, which overtops the houses: from 
■whence at day-break, mid-day, and evening, he invokes the Su- 
preme Being, by saying, "0 God, there is but one God, Maho- 
met is his prophet, and Alt his friend." After repeating these 
words three times, he makes a prayer to this effect: "Glory be 
to the Sovereign of the Universe, and to the Judge of the Last 
Daj r . We glorify thee: we beseech thee to assist us in our ne- 
cessities, to lead us in thy ways, and in the paths of righteous- 
ness, and to prevent our falling into the snares of perdition." 

I never observed that the Persians have any mark of that false 
modesty which prevails among Christians of the best sort, who 
to avoid the imputation of affectation or hypocricy, are as jeal- 
ous to be seen on their knees, as afraid to commit any criminal 
action. If a bold masculine piety, and a sincere awful sense of 
the Deity are very consistent things, this false modesty must be 
owing to an error in education. 

The, Persians have some of the Jewish rites among them; and 
also this peculiarity, that, when they pray, they never permit 
the image of any sensible object to lie before them; nor is it 
permitted to pray with any thing of gold about them, as if it was 
esteemed an object of idolatry. They invoke the intercession of 
the departed souls of some of their prophets and pious men. 
They give one proof of religion vastly superior to Christians: 
for I never could observe, that they mentioned the name of the 4 
Supreme Being, except upon solemn occasions, or at least in a res- 
pectful manner. 

The Turkish language is the most common in Persia. In mat- 
ters of learning, they use the Arabian language, in which is de- 
posited the greatest part of that knowledge, for which the Per- 
sians were once distinguished. The learned languages, familiar 
to Europeans, are not known among them. As time seems to 
have made no change in the customs of Asia, but the same man- 
ners remain as we read of two thousand years ago, so the lan- 
guage, particularly of the Persians, has the same idiom and sub- 
limity of expression. 

They write, as the Hebrews, from the right to the left, and of- 
ten range their lines in an arbitrary manner; so that upon one leaf 
of paper they sometimes write in ten different directions, "and this 
only to show the writer's ability, in observing the proportion of 
words and lines in each. * Ha> t way. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 119 

SECTION XLVII. 
Of the Manner of Ordering Silk Worms at Ghilan, in Persia. 

THE silk worm, as it is well known, takes its birth from an 
egg no bigger than a small pin's head. In the month of March, 
when the sun is already very warm, I observed the peasants in 
Ghilan prepare to give life to the eggs, which they had pre- 
served during the winter, carrying them for the most part about 
them, in the warmest part of their bodies, and particularly under 
their arms. In ten or more days, according to the heat it re- 
ceives, it becomes a maggot, and begins to feed. The shrub mul- 
berry-trees, which are annually pruned, produce the most tender 
and proper leaves for their food. In about forty days the worm 
arrives to its maturity, and winds itself by daily gradations into a 
pod of silk as big as a pigeon's egg. 

When this egg is completely formed, which is usually known 
by the silence of the worm within, they suffocate it by covering 
it with blankets, or by the heat of the sun; unless they wind off 
the silk immediately, for then warm water answers the same pur- 
pose. Some of them, however, must be permitted to live and 
perforate the pod; for when it breaks from its enclosure, it casts 
its seed or eggs, by means of which the generation is preserved. 
From the j)ods thus perforated, the silk cannot be wound off as 
from the others, but being prepared by pounding, it is spun off 
like cotton yarn. This silk we call hedge, the remains or refuge 
of which is so inferior, as to admit only of being milled and 
made into silk wadding. Han way. 

SECTION XL VIII. 

Of the Hot Baths at Sophia. 

SOPHIA is one of the most beautiful towns in the Turkish em- 
pire, and famous for its hot baths, that are resorted to both for 
diversion and health. I stopped there one day on purpose to see 
them, and designing to go incognito, 1 hired a Turkish coach. 
These voitures are not at all like ours, but much more conveni- 
ent for the country, the heat being so great that glasses would be 
very troublesome. They are made a good deal in the manner of 
the Dutch stage-coaches, having wooden lattices painted and gild- 
ed, the inside being also painted with baskets and nosegays of 
flowers, intermixed commonly with little poetical mottos. They 
are covered all over with scarlet cloth, lined with silk, and very 
often richly embroidered and fringed. This covering entirely 
hides the persons in them ; but may be thrown back at pleasure. 



15*0 THE l'L0U v ER3 OF 

and thus permits the ladies to peep through the lattices. They 
hold four people very conveniently, seated on cushions, but not 
raised. 

In one of these covered wagons I went to the bathing-house 
shout ten o'clock. It was already full of women. It is built of 
stone, in the shape of a dome, with no windows but in the roof, 
which gives light enough. There were five of these domes join- 
ed together, the outmost being less than the rest, and serving only 
as a hall, where the portress stood at the door. Ladies of qual- 
ity generally give this woman a crown or ten shillings; and I 
did not forget that ceremony. There were four fountains of cold 
water in this room, falling first into marhle basons, and then run- 
ning on the floor in little channels made for that purpose, which 
carried the streams into the next room, something less than this, 
with the same sort of marble sofas, but so hot with streams of sul- 
phur proceeding from the baths joining to it, that it was impossi- 
ble to sta} r there with one's clothes on. The two other domes 
were the hot baths, one of which had cocks of eold water turn- 
ing into it, to temper it to what degree of warmth the bather pleas- 
ed to have. 

I was in my travelling habit, which is a riding dress, and cer- 
tainly appeared very extraordinary to them. Yet there was not 
one of them that showed the least surprise or impertinent curios- 
ity, but received me with all the obliging civility possible. I 
know no European court where the ladies would have behaved 
themselves in so polite a manner to such a stranger. I believe, 
upon the whole, there were two hundred women, and yet none of 
those disdainful smiles, and satirical whispers, that never fail in 
our assemblies, when any body appears that is not dressed exact- 
ly in the fashion. 

The first sofas were covered with cushions and- rich carpets, on 
which sat the ladies; and on the second their slaves behind them, 
but without any distinction of rank by their dress, all being in the 
state of nature. Yet there was not the least wanton smile or im- 
modest gesture among them. 

They generally take this diversion once a week, and stay there 
at least four or five hours, without getting cold by immediately 
coming out of the hot bath into the cool room, which was very 
surprising to me. 

The lady that seemed the most considerable amongst them en- 
treated me to sit by her, and would fain have undressed me for 
the bath. I excused nvyself with some difficulty. They being, 
however, all so earnest in persuading me, I was at last forced to 
open my shirt and show them my stays; which satisfied them 
very well; for I saw they believed I was locked up in that ma- 
chine, and that it was not in my own power to open it; which 
contrivance they contributed to my husband. I was charmed 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 151 

with their civility and beauty, and should have been very glad 
to hare passed more time with them, if I could conveniently have 
done it. Lady M. W. Montague. 



SFXTION XLIX. 

Of the Nature of the Turkish Government; and of the Grand 
Signot^s Procession to the Mosque. 

THE government here is entirely in the hands of the array. 
The Grand Signor, with all bis absolute power, is as much a 
slave as any of hisHsubjects, and trembles at a janizary's frown. 
Here is, indeed, a much greater appearance of subjection than 
amongst us. A minister of state is not spoke to but upon the 
knee. Should a reflection on his conduct be dropt in a coffee 
house, (for they have spies every where,) the house would he 
lazed to the ground, and perhaps the whole company put to the 
torture. No huzzaing mobs, senseless pamphlets, and tavern 
disputes about jjolitics: 

"A consequential ill that freedom draws; 
"A bad effect but from a noble cause." 

None of our harmless calling names! but when a minister here 
displeases the people, in three hours' time he is dragged even 
from his master's arms. They cut off his hands, head, and feet, 
and throw them before the palace-gate, with all the respect in the 
world; while the sultan (to whom they all profess an unlimited 
adoration,) sits trembling in his apartment, and dares neither de- 
fend nor avenge his favourite. This is the blessed condition of 
the most absolute monarch upon earth, who owns no law but his 
will. 

I cannot help wishing, in the loyalty of my heart, that the par- 
liament would send hither a ship-load of your passive-obedience- 
men, that they might see arbitrary government in its clearest and 
strongest light, where it is hard to-judge whether the prince, peo- 
ple or ministers are most miserable. 

I went yesterday, along with the French embassadress, to see 
the Grand Signor in his passage to the mosque. He was preced- 
ed by a numerous guard of janizaries, with vast white feathers on 
their heads, as als© by their foot and horse guards, and the royal 
gardeners, which are a very considerable body of men, dressed 
in different habits of fine lively colours, so that when at a dis- 
tance they appeared like a parterre of tulips. After them the 
aga of the janizaries, in a robe of purple^ velvet, lined with silver 
tissue, his horse led by two slaves, richly dressed. Next to him 
the chief guardian of the seraglio ladies, in a deep yellow cloth; 



152. TIIE FLOWERS OE 

(which suited very well to his black face,) lined with sables. 
Last' of all, came his sublimity himself, arrayed in green, lined 
with the fur of a black Muscovite fox, which is supposed worth a 
thousand pounds sterling, and mounted on a line horse, with fur- 
niture embroidered with jewels. Six more horses richly capari- 
soned, were led with him, and two of his principal courtiers bore, 
one his gold, and the other his silver coffee-pot, on a stall". 
Another carried a silver stool on his head, for him to sit on. 

It would be too tedious to describe the various dresses and tur- 
bans by which their rank is distinguished; but they were all ex- 
tremely rich and gay, to the number of some thousands; so that, 
perhaps, there cannot be seen a more beautiful procession. The 
sultan appeared to us, a handsome man, of ab&rt forty, with some- 
thing, however, severe in his countenance, and his eyes were full, 
and black. He happened to stop under the window where we 
stood, and (I suppose, being told who we were,) looked upon us 
very attentively, so that we had leisure to consider him. 

Lady M. W. Montague- 



SECTION L. 

Of the Persons and Manners of the Turkish Ladies. 

IN this country it is surprising to see a young woman that is 
not very handsome. They have naturally the most beautiful com- 
plexion in the world, and generally large black eyes. I can with 
great truth assert, that the court of England (though I believe it 
the fairest in Christendom,) does not contain so many beauties as 
are under our protection here. They generally shape their e} _ c- 
brows, and both Greeks and Turks have the custom of putting 
round their eyes a black tincture, that at a distance, or by candle- 
light, adds very much to the blackness of them. I fancy many 
of our ladies would be over-joyed to know this secret; but it i-> 
too visible by day. They dye their nails a rose-colour; but I own 
I cannot enough accustom myself to the fashion to find any 
beauty in it. 

Their hair hangs at its full length behind, divided into tresses, 
braided with pearl or ribbon, which is always in great quantity. 
I never saw in my life so many fine heads of hair. In one lady's 
I have counted one hundced and ten of the tresses, all natural; 
but it must be owned, that every kind of beauty is more common 
here than with us. 

The head-dress is composed of a -cap called talpocfc, which is 
in winter, of fine velvet, embroidered with pearls or diamonds, 
and in summer, of a light shining silver stuff. This is fixed on 
one side of the head, hanging a little way down, with a gold tas- 
sel, and bound on either side with a circle of diamonds, or a rich 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS^ 153 

embroidered handkerchief. On the other side of the head, the 
the hair is laid flat; and here the ladies are at liberty to show their 
fancies, some putting flowers, others a plume of heron's feathers, 
and, in short, what they please; but the most general fashion is a 
large bouquet of jewels, made like natural flowers, that is, the 
buds of pearl, the roses of different coloured rubies, the jessamins 
of diamonds, and the jonquils of topazes, so well, set and ena- 
melled, that it is hard to imagine any thing of the kind so beau- 
tiful. ■ 

As to their morality, or good conduct, I can say, like Harlequin," 
that it is just as it is with you; and the Turkish ladies do not com= 
mit one sin the less for not being Christians. Now, that I am a 
little acquainted with their ways, I cannot forbear admiring 
either the exemplary discretion, or extreme stupidity of all the 
writers that have given accounts of them. It is very easy to see 
they have in reality, more liberty than we have. No woman, of 
what rank soever, is permitted to go into the streets without two 
mufiins, one that covers her face all but her eyes, and another 
that hides the whole dress of her head, and hangs half way down 
her back. Their shapes are also wholly concealed by a thing they 
call a ferigee, which no woman, of any sort, appears without. 
This has strait sleeves that reach to their finger-ends, and it laps 
all around them, not unlike a ridinghood. In winter it is of cloth, 
and in summer, of plain stuff or silk. You may guess then, how 
effectually this disguises them; so that there is no distinguishing 
the great lady from her slave. It is impossible for the most 
jealous husband to know his wife when he meets her, and no man 
dare touch or follow a woman in the street. 

This perpetual musquerade gives them entire liberty of follow- 
ing their inclinations without danger of discovery. The great 
ladies seldom let their gallants know who they are; and it is s© 
difficult to find it out, that they can very seldom guess at he* 
name, whom they have corresponded with for above half a year 
together. You may easily imagine the number of faithful wives 
very small, in a country where they have nothing to fear from a 
lover's indiscretion, since we see so many have the courage to 
expose themselves to that in this world, and all the threatened 
punishment in the next, which is never preached to the Turkish 
damsels. Neither have they much to apprehend from the resent- 
ment of their husbands^ those ladies that are rich having all the 
money in their own hands. 

Upon the whole, I look upon the Turkish women as the only- 
free people in the empire. The very divan pays respect to them; 
and the Grand Signor himself, when a bassa is executed, never 
violates the privileges of the harem, or woman's apartment, which 
remains unsearched and entire to the widow. They are queens 
of their slaves, whom the husband has no permission so much as 
to look upon, except it be an old woman or two, that his lady 
20 



154 THE flowers of 

gooses. It is true, their law permits them four wives; but there 
is no instance of a man of quality that makes use of this liberty, 
or of a woman of rank that would suffer it. 

Thus you see the manners of mankind do not differ so widely 
as our voyage-writers would make us believe. Perhaps it would 
be more entertaining to add a few surprising customs, of my own 
invention; but nothing seems to me so agreeable as truth, and I 
believe nothing so. acceptable to you. 

Lady M. W. Montague. 



SECTION LI. 

On the Pleasant Situation of Mrianople, and the Manner 
in which the Turks Pass their Time there. 

SOMETHING extraordinary will r no doubt, be expected from 
me, after I have gone a journey not undertaken by any Christian 
for some hundred years. The most remarkable accident that 
happened to me, was, my being very near overturned into the 
Hebrus; and if I had much regard for the glories that one's name 
enjoys after death, I should certainly be sorry for having missed 
the romantic conclusion of swimming down the same river, in 
which the musical head of Orpheus repeated verses so many ages 
since; 

"Caput, a cervice revulsum, 
"Gurgite cum medio portans CEagrius Hebrus 
**Volveret, Eurydicen vox ipsa et frigida lingua, 
"Ah! miseram Eurydicen! anima fugiente vocabat- 
"Eurydicen toto referebant flumine ripx." 

Who knows but some of your bright wits might have found it a 
subject affording many poetical turns, and have told the world in 
an heroic elegy, that, 

"As equal were our souls, so equal were our fates?" 

I despair of ever hearing so many fine things said of me, as so 
extraordinary a death would have given occasion for. 

I am, at this present moment, writing in a house situated on the 
bank of the Hebrus, which runs under my chamber-window. 
My garden is full of tall cypress trees, upon the branches of which 
several couple of true turtles are saying soft things to one another 
from morning till night. How naturally do boughs and vows 
come into my mind at this minute! And must you not confess, 
to my praise, that it is more than ordinary discretion, which can 
resist the wicked suggestions of poetry in a place where truth., 
for once, furnishes alt the ideas of pastoral? 



; 

CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 155 

The summer is already far advanced in this part of the world; 
and, for some miles round Adrianople, the whole ground is laid 
out in gardens, and the banks of the rivers are set with rows of 
fruit trees, under which, all the most considerable Turks divert 
themselves every evening; not with walking, (that is not one of 
their pleasures,) but a set party of them choose out a green spot, 
where the shade is very thick, and there they spread a carpet, 
on which they sit drinking their coffee, and are generally attend- 
ed by some slave with a fine voice, or that plays on some instru- 
ment. Every twenty paces you may see one of these little com- 
panies listening to the dashing of the river; and this taste is so 
universal, that the very gardeners are not without it. I have 
often seen them and their children sitting on the banks of the 
river, and playing on a rural instrument, perfectly answering the 
description of the ancient fistula, being composed of unequal 
reeds, with a simple but agreeable softness in the sound. 

Mr. Addison might here make the experiment he speaks 
of in his travels, there not being one instrument of music among 
the Greek or Roman statues, that is not to be found in the hands 
of the people of this country. The young lads generally divert 
themselves with making garlands for their favourite lamb, which 
I have often seen painted and adorned with flowers, lying at their 
feet, while they sung or played. It is not that they ever read 
romances; but these are the ancient amusements here, and as na- 
tural to them, as cudgel-playing and foot-ball to our British swains, 
the softness and warmth of the olimate forbidding all roUgh exer- 
cises, which were never so much as heard of amongst them, and 
naturally inspiring a laziness and aversion for labour, which the 
great plenty indulges. These gardeners are the only happy race 
of country people in Turkey. They furnish all the city with 
fruits and herbs, and seem to live very easy. They are most of 
them Greeks, and have little houses in the midst of their gar- 
dens, where their wives and daughters take a liberty not per- 
mitted in the town, I mean, to go unveiled. These girls are 
very neat and handsome, and pass the time at their looms under 
the shade of the trees. 

I no longer look upon Theocritus as a romantic writer. He 
has only given a plain image of the way of life among the pea- 
sants of this country, who, before oppression had reduced them to 
want, were, I suppose, all employed as the better sort of them are 
now. I do not doubt, had he been born a Briton, but his Idyl- 
liums had been filled with descriptions of threshing and churning, 
both of which are unknown here, the corn being all trod out by 
oxen; and butter (I speak it with sorrow,) unheard of. 

Lady M. W. Montague- 



l^G TH£ ELOWERS OF 

SECTION LII. 

Of the Entertainment given by the Grand Vizir's Lady. 

AT Adrianople I was invited to dine with the Grand Vizir's 
lady, and it was with a great deal of pleasure I prepared myself 
for an entertainment, which was never before given to any Chris- 
tian. I thought I should very little satisfy her curiosity, (which I 
did not doubt was a considerable motive to the invitation,) by go- 
ing in a dress she was used to see, and therefore dressed rr^self 
in the court-habit of Vienna, which is much more magnificent 
than ours. However, I chose to go incognito, to avoid any dis- 
putes about ceremony, and went in a Turkish coach, attended 
only by my woman that held up my train, and the Greek lady 
who was my interpretess. 

I was met in the court-door by her black eunuch, who helped 
me out of the coach with great respect, and conducted me through 
Several rooms, where her female slaves, finely dressed, were rang- 
ed on each side. In the innermost I found the lady sitting on 
her sofa, in a sable vest. She advanced to meet me, and intro- 
duced me to half a dozen of her friends with great civility. She 
seemed a very good woman, near fifty years old. I was surpris- 
ed to observe so little magnificence in her house, the furniture 
being all very moderate, and except the habits and number of her 
slaves, nothing about her appeared expensive. She guessed at my 
thoughts, and told me she was no longer of an age to spend either 
her time or money in superfluities; that her whole expense was 
in charity, and her whole employment praying to God. There 
was no affectation in this speech. Both she and her husband are 
entirely given up to devotion. He never looks upon any other 
woman, and, what is much more extraordinary, touches no bribes, 
notwithstanding the example of all his predecessors. He is so 
scrupulous on this point, that he would not accept Mr. W 's pre- 
sent, till he had been assured over and over, that it was a settled 
perquisite of his place at the entrance of every embassador. She 
entertained me with all kind of civility till dinner came in, which 
was served one dish at a time, to a vast number, all finely dress- 
ed after their manner, which I do not think so bad, as it has been 
sometimes represented. 

I am a very good judge of their eating, having lived three 
weeks in the house of an effendi at Belgrade, who gave us very 
magnificent dinners, dressed by ,his own cooks. The first week 
they pleased me extremely; but I own I then began to grow weary 
of their table, and desired our own cook might add a dish or two 
after our own manner. But I attribute this to custom, and am 
very much inclined to believe, that an Indian, who had never 
tasted of either, would prefer their cookery to ours. Their sauces 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. lo7 

are very high, and all the roast very much done. They use a 
great deal of very rich spice. The soup is served for the last 
dish, and they have at least as great a variety of ragouts as we 
have. I am very sorry I could not eat as many as the good lady 
would have had me, who was very earnest in serving me of every 
thing. The treat concluded with coffee and perfumes, which is 
a high mark of inspect; two slaves. kneeling, perfumed my hair, 
clothes, and handkerchief. After this ceremony, she command- 
ed her slaves to play and dance, which they did with guitars in 
their hands; and she excused to me their want of skill, saying, 
she took no care to accomplish them in that art. I returned her 
thanks, and soon after took my leave. 

Lady M. W. Montague. 



SECTION LIU. 

Of Constantinople. 

I HAD the advantage of very fine weather all my journey 
from Adrianople to this city. The Grand Signor furnished us 
with thirty covered wagons for our baggage, and five coaches of 
the country for my women. We found the road full of the great 
spahis, and their equipages, coming out of Asia to the war. They 
always travel with tents; but I chose to lie in the houses all the 
Avay. I will not trouble you with the names of the villages we 
passed, in which there was nothing remarkable but at Ciorlei, 
where there was a little seraglio, built for the use of the Grand 
Signor when he goes this road. I had the curiosity to view all 
the apartments destined for the ladies of his court. They were 
in the midst of a thick grove of trees made fresh by fountains. 
But I was most surprised to see the walls almost covered with 
little distiches of Turkish verse, written with pencils. I made 
my interpreter explain them to me, and I found several of them 
very well turned; though I easily believed him, that they had lost 
much of their beauty in the translation. One was literally thus 
in English: 

"We come into this world, we lodge, and we depart; 
"He never goes that's lodg'd within my heart." 

The rest of our journey was through fine painted meadows, by 
the side oLthe sea of Marmora, the ancient Propontis. 

A certain French author says, Constantinople is twice as big 
as Paris. It does not appear to me to be much bigger than Lon- 
don; I am apt to think it is not so populous. The burying- 
fields about it are certainly much larger than the whole city. It 
is surprising what a vast deal of land is lost this way in Tur- 
key. Sometimes I have seen burying-places of several miles^ 



1.5S THE FL0WE.RS OF 

belonging to very inconsiderable villages, which were formerly 
great towns, and retain no other mark of their ancient grandeur 
than this dismal one. 

On no occasion do they ever remove a stone that serves for a 
monument. Some of them are costly enough, being of very fine 
marble. They set up a pillar, with a carved turban on the top 
of it, to the memory of a man; and as the turbans, by their dif- 
ferent shapes, show the quality or profession, it is in a manner 
putting up the arms of the deceased. Besides, the pillar com- 
monly bears an inscription in gold letters. The ladies have a 
simple pillar without other ornaments; except those who die un- 
married, who have a rose on the top of their monument. The 
sepulchres of particular families are railed in, and planted round 
with trees. Those of the sultans, and some great men, have 
lamps constantly burning in them. 

The exchanges are all noble buildings, full of fine alleys, the 
greatest part supported with pillars, and kept wonderfully neat. 
Every trade has its distinct alley, where the merchandise is dis- 
posed in the same order, as in the New Exchange at London. 
The jewellers' quarter shows so much riches, such a vast quan- 
tity of diamonds, and all kinds of precious stones, that they daz- 
zle the sight. The embroiderers' is also very glittering, and peo- 
ple walk here as much for diversion as business. The markets 
are, most of them handsome squares, and admirably well provid- 
ed, perhaps better than in any other part of the world. 

I have taken care to see as much of the seraglio here as is to 
be seen. It is on a point of land running into the sea; a place of 
prodigious extent, but very irregular. The gardens take in a 
large compass of ground, full of high cypress trees, which is all 
I know of them. The buildings are all of white stone, leaded 
on the top, with gilded turrets and spires, which look very mag- 
nificent; and, indeed, I believe there is no Christian king's palace 
half so large. There are six large courts in it, all built round, and 
set with trees, having galleries of stone, one of these for the guard, 
another for the slaves, another for the officers of the kitchen, an- 
other for the stablers, the fifth for the divan, and the sixth for 
the apartment destined for audiences. On the ladies' side there 
are at least as many more, with distinct courts belonging to their 
eunuchs and attendants. 

The climate about Constantinople is delightful in the highest 
degree. I am now sitting, on the fourth of January, with the 
windows open, enjoying the warm sun-shine, while you are 
freezing over a sad sea-coal fire; and my chamber is set out with 
carnations, roses, and jonquils, fresh from my garden. 

The pleasure of going in a barge to Chelsea is not comparable 
to that of rowing upon a canal of the sea here, where, for twenty 
miles together, down the Bosphorus, the most beautiful variety 
of prospects present themselves. The Asiatic §ide is covered 



CELEBRATED TRAVELXERS. t5$ 

with fruit-trees, villages, and the most delightful landscapes in na- 
ture. On the European stands Constantinople, situated on seven 
hills. The unequal heights make it seem twice as large as it is, 
(though one of the largest cities in the world,) showing an agree- 
able mixture of gardens, pine and cypress trees, palaces, mosques, 
and public buildings, raised one above another with as much beau- 
ty, and appearance of symmetry, as any person ever saw in a 
cabinet adorned by the most skilful hands, where jars shew 
themselves above jars, mixed with canisters, babies, and candle- 
sticks. This is a very odd comparison, but it gives me an exact 
idea of the thing. Lady M. W. Montague- 



SECTION LIV. 

Verses addressed to Lady M. W, Montague i ; 

I. 

IN beauty or wit, 

No mortal as yet 
To question your empire has daredj 

But men of discerning, 

Have thought that in learnings 
To yield to a lady was hard. 

IL 

Impertinent schools, 

With musty dull rules*, 
Have reading to females deny'd; 

So Papists refuse 

The bible to use, 
Lest flocks should be wise as their gukJe. 

III. 

'Twas a woman at first 

(Indeed she was curst,) 
In knowledge that tasted delightj 

And sages agree, 

The laws should decree:* 
To the first possessor the right* 

IV. 

Then bravely, fair dame ? 
Renew the old claim 
Whlcji to your whole sex does belongs 



1(50 THE FLOWERS OF 

And let men receive, 
From a second bright Eve, 
The knowledge of right and of wrong/ 



But if the first Eve 

Hard doom did receive, 
When only an apple had she; 

What punishment new 

Shall be found out for you, 
Who tasting have robb'd the whole tree? pofe- 



SECTION LV. 

*2 singular Head-dress — a singular Custom — Sir William 
Temple's opinion of Holland. 

THE head-dress of the women in North Holland is very ex- 
traordinary. They have a little hair cut short and thin, which is 
combed down on the forehead and powdered. The cap sticks 
close to their ears, under which are two little pieces of silver or 
gold, which appear at each temple, and a large piece, like a broad 
ribbon, is under the cap, on the back part of the head. 

A singular custom is likewise retained in this country, of hav- 
ing a door in every house, which is never opened but when a 
corpse is carried out, which must be bx-ought through that door, 
and no other. I think there is something uncommonly solemn in 
it, and such a door in e\ery house would be an admirable memento 
to the family. 

Having made the tour of the whole province of Holland, and 
suffered nothing curious to escape me, my head at present, is a 
confused medley of dykes and pictures, churches and canals, 
bridges and stadthouses, but a void in respect to the customs, po- 
lice and manners of the people, the only useful knowledge to be 
■acquired by travelling 

I have seen enough to confirm me in the justness of Sir Wil- 
liam Temple's opinion, who, in speaking of Holland, if my me- 
mory misleads me not, says, "That it is a country where the 
earth is better than the air, and profit more in request than hon- 
our; where there is more sense than wit, more good-nature than 
good-humour, and more wealth than pleasure; — where a man 
would choose rather to travel than to live; shall find more things 
to observe than desire; and more persons to esteem than to love." 

Tour through Holland. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 161 

SECTION LVI. 
Of the Character and Manners of the Venetians. 

1 AM very sensible, that it requires a longer residence at "V&e 
nice, and better opportunities than I have had, to enable me to 
give a character of the Venetians. But were I to form an idea 
of them from what I have seen, I should paint them as a lively 
ingenious people, extravagantly fond of public amusements, with 
an uncommon relish for humour, and yet more attached to the 
real enjoyments of life, than to those which depend on osten«> 
tation, and proceed from vanity. 

The common people of Venice display some qualities very 
rarely to be found in that sphere of life, being remarkably sober, 
obliging to strangers, and genteel in their intercourse with each 
other. The Venetians, in general, are tall and well made. Though 
equally robust, they are not so corpulent as the Germans. The 
latter also are of fair complexions, with light grey, or blue eyesj 
whereas the Venetians are, for the most part, of a ruddy brown co- 
lour, with dark eyes. You meet in the streets of Venice, many 
fine manly countenances, resembling those transmitted to us, by 
the pencils of Paul Veronese and Titian. The women are of a 
fine style of countenance, with expressive features, and a skin of 
rich carnation. They dress their hair in a fanciful manner, which 
becomes them very much. They are of an easy address, and 
have no aversion to cultivating an acquaintance with those stran- 
gers who are presented to them by their relations, or have been 
properly recommended. 

Strangers are under less restraint here, in many particulars, than 
the native inhabitants. ■ I have known some, who, after having 
tried most of the capitals of Europe, have preferred to live at Ve- 
nice, on account of the variety of amusements, the gentle man- 
ners of the inhabitants, and the perfect freedom allowed in every 
tiling, except in blaming the measures of government. When a 
stranger is so imprudent, as to declaim against the form or the 
measures of government, he will either receive a message to leave 
the territories of the state, or one of the Sbhirri will be sent to ac= 
company him to the pope's or the emperor's dominions. 

The houses are thought inconvenient by many of the English, 
They are better calculated, however, for the climate of Italy, than 
if they were built according to the London model, which, I sup- 
pose, is the plan those critics approve. The floors are of a red 
plaster, with a brilliant, glossy surface, much more beautiful than 
wood, and far preferable in case of fire, whose progress they are 
calculated to check. 

The principal apartments are on the second floor. The Vene- 
tians seldom inhabit the first, which is often entirely filled with 
° 1 



LG2 THE flowers of 

lumber. Perhaps they prefer the second, because it is farthest 
removed from the moisture of the lakes-; or perhaps they prefer 
it because it is better lighted and more cheerful: or they may have 
some better reason for this preference than I am acquainted with, 
or can imagine. 

Though the inhabitants of Great Britain make use of the first 
floors for their chief apartments, this dues not form a complete 
demonstration that the Venetians are in the wrong for preferring 
the second. When an acute sensible people universally follow 
one custom, in a mere matter of conveniency, however absurd 
that custom may appear in the eyes of a stranger at first sight, 
it will generally be found, that there is some real advantage in it, 
which compensates all the apparent inconveniences. Of this, tra- 
vellers who do not hurry with, too much rapidity through the 
countries they visit, are very sensible. For, after having had 
time to weigh every circumstance, they often see reason to ap- 
prove what they had formerly condemned. Custom and fashion 
have the greatest influence on our taste of beauty, or excellence 
of every kind. What from a variety of causes has become the 
standard in one. country,, is sometimes just the contrary in an- 
other. The same thing that makes a low brimmed hat appear 
genteel at one time, and ridiculous at another, has made a differ- 
ent. species of versification be accounted the model of perfection 
in old Rome and modern Italy, at Paris, or at London. In mat- 
ters of taste, particularly in dramatic poetry, the prejudices which 
each particular nation acquires in favour of its own, are difficult 
to be removed. People seldom obtain such a perfect knowledge 
of a foreign language and foreign manners, as to understand all 
the niceties of the one and the illusions to the other. In conse- 
quence of this, many things are insipid to them, for which a na- 
tive may have a high relish. 

The dialogues in rhime, of the French plays, appear unnatural 
and absurd to Englishmen, when they first attend the French 
theatre; yet those who have remained long in France, and ac- 
quired a more perfect knowledge of the language, assure us, that 
without rhime the dignity of the tragic muse cannot be support- 
ed,; and that, even in comedy, they produce an additional ele- 
gance, which overbalances every objection. The French language 
being more studied and better understood b}'- the English, than 
our language is by the French nation, we find many of our coun- 
trymen who relish the beauties, and pay the just tribute of admi- 
ration to the genius of Corneille, while there is scarcely a sin- 
gle Frenchman to be found, who has any idea of the merit of 
Shakespeare. 

Without being justly accused of partiality, I may assert, that 
in this instance the English display a fairness and liberality of 
sentiment superior to the French. The irregularities of Shake- 
speare's drama are obvious to every eye, and would, in the pre- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. i6S 

seat age, be avoided by a poet not possessed of an hundredth part 
■of his orenius. His peculiar beauties, on tbe other hand, are of 
an exceTiencc which lias not, perhaps, been attained by any 
poet of any age or country. Yet the French critics, from Vol- 
taire down to the poorest scribbler in the literary journals, all stop 
at the former, declaim on the barbarous taste of the English na- 
tion, insist on the grotesque absurdity of the poet's imagination, 
and illustrate both by partial extracts of the most exceptionable 
scenes of Shakespeare's plays. 

When a whole people, with that degree of judgment which even 
the enemies of the British nation allow them to have, unite in the 
highest admiration of one man, and continue, for ages, to behold, 
his pieces with unsated delight, it might occur to the Frenchmen, 
that there possibly was some excellence in the works of this poet, 
though they could not see it; and a very moderate share of can- 
dour might have taught them, that it would be more becoming 
to spare their ridicule, till they acquired a little more knowledge 
of the author against whom it is pointed. 

An incident which occured since my arrival at Venice, though 
founded on a prejudice much more excusable than the conduct of 
the critics above mentioned, has brought home to my conviction 
the rashness of those who form opinions, without the knowledge 
requisite to direct their judgment. 

I had got, I .don't know how, the most contemptuous opinion 
of .the Italian drama. I had been told, there was not a tolerable 
actor at present in Italy; and I had been long taught to' consider 
their comedy as the most despicable stuff in the world, which 
could not amuse, or even draw a smile from any person of taste, 
being quite destitute of true humour, full of ribaldry, and only 
proper for the meanest of the vulgar. Impressed with these sen- 
timents, I went with a party to the stage-box of one of the play- 
houses the very day of our arrival at Venice. 

The piece was a corned}', and the most entertaining character 
in it was a man who buttered. In this defect, and in the singu- 
lar grimaces with which the actor accompanied it, consisted a 
great part of the amusement. 

Disgusted at such a pitiful substitution for wit and humour, I 
expressed a contempt for an audience which could be entertained 
by such buffoonery, and who could take pleasure in the exhibition 
of a natui-al infirmity. 

While we inwardly indulged sentiments of self-approbation, 
on account of the refinement and superiority of our own taste, 
and supported the dignity of those sentiments by a disdainful 
gravity of countenance, the stutterer was giving a piece of in- 
formation to Harlequin, which greatly interested him, and to 
which he listened with every mark of eagerness. This unfortu- 
nate speaker had just arrived at the most important part of his 
naratiye, which was, to acquaint the impatient listener where his 



164 THE FLOWERS UF 

mistress was concealed, when he unluckily stumbled on a word of 
six or seven syllables, which completely obstructed the progress 
of his narration. He attempted it again and again, but always 
without success. Though many other words might explain the 
meaning well; it is as easy to make a saint change his religion, as 
prevail on a stutterer to accept of another word in place of that 
at which he has stumbled. He adheres to his Jirst word to the 
the last, and will sooner expire with it in his throat, than give, it 
up for any other you may offer. Harlequin, on the present occa- 
sion, presented his friend with a dozen, but he rejected them all 
with disdain, and persisted in his unsuccessful attempts on that 
which had first come in his way. At length, making a desperate 
effort, when all the spectators were gaping in expectation of his 
safe delivery, the cruel word came up with its broad-side foie- 
most, and stuck directly across the unhappy man's wind-pipe. 
He gaped, and panted, and croaked; his face flushed, and his eyes 
seemed ready to start from his head. Harlequin unbuttoned the 
stutterer's waistcoat, and the node of his shirt; he fanned his 
face with his cap, and held a bottle of hartshorn to his nose. At 
length, fearing his patient would expire before he could give the 
desired intelligence, in a fit of despair he pitched his head, full 
in the dying man's stomach, and the word bolted out of his mouth 
to the most distant part of the house. 

This was performed in a manner so perfectly droll, and the 
humorous absurdity of the expedient came so unexpectedly upon 
me, that I immediately burst into a most excessive fit of laughter 
in which I was accompanied by my friends; and our laughter 
continued in such loud, violent, and repeated fits, that the atten- 
tion of the audience being turned from the stage to our box, oc- 
casioned a renewal of the mirth all over the playhouse with greater 
vociferation than at first. 

When we returned to the inn, I was asked, if I were as much 
convinced as ever, that a man must be perfectly devoid of taste, 
who could condescend to laugh at an Italian comedy? 

Dr. Moore, 



SECTION LVII. 

Of the Situation of Venice, its Canals and Bridges. 

THE view of Venice, at some little distance from the town, 
is mentioned by many travellers in terms of the highest admira- 
tion. I had been so often forewarned of the amazement with 
which I should be struck at the first sight of this city, that when 
I actually did see it, I felt little or no amazement at all. You 
will behold, said those anticipators, a magnificent town; or more 
frequently, to make the deeper impression, they give it in de- 



CELBBRATEI) TRAVELLERS. 103 

tail: — You will behold, said they, magnificent palaces, churches, 
towers, and steeples, all standing in the middle of the sea. Well, 
this unquestionably is an uncommon scene; and there is no man- 
ner of doubt that a town, surrounded by water, is a very fine sight; 
but all the travellers that have existed since the days of Cain, will 
not convince me, that a town, surrounded by land, is not a much 
finer. Can there be any comparison, in point of beauty, between 
the dull monotony of a watery surface, and the delightful variety 
of gardens, meadows, hills and woods? 

If the situation of Venice renders it less agreeable than another 
city, to behold at a distance, it must render it, in a much strong- 
er degree, less agreeable to inhabit. For you will please to re- 
collect, that, instead of walking or riding in the fields, and enjoy- 
ing the fragrance of herbs, and the melody of birds, when 3011 
wish to take the air here, you must submit to be paddled about 
from morning to night, in a narrow boat, along dirty canals; or, 
if you don't like this, you have one resource more, which is that 
of walking in St. Mark's Place. 

These are the disadvantages which Venice labours under, with 
regard to situation; but it has other peculiarities, which, in the 
opinion of many, overbalance them, and render it, on the whole, 
an agreeable town. 

Venice is said to be built in the sea; that is p it is built in the 
midst of shallows which stretch some miles from the shore, at the 
bottom of the Adriatic gulph. Though those shallows, being 
now all covered with water, have the appearance of one great 
lake; yet they are called Laguna, or lakes, because formerly, as it 
is imagined, they were several. On sailing on the Laguna, and 
looking to the bottom, many large hollows are to be seen, which at 
some foimer period have, very possibly, been distinct lakes, though 
now, being all covered wlth/a epmmon surface of Water, they form 
one large lake, of unequa^ depth. , The imwv*ds between* those 
hollows, it is supposed were little islands, and are now shallows, 
lyhich, at ebb; are all within reach of a pole. 

When you approach the city, you come along a liquid road, 
marked by rows of stakes on each side, which direct vessels, of a 
certain burthen, to avoid the shallows, and keep in deeper water. 
These shallows are a better defence to the city than the strongest 
fortifications. On the approach of an enemy's fleet, the Venetians 
have only to pull up their stakes, and the enemy can advance no 
farther. They are equally beyond the insult of a land army, even 
in the midst of winter; for the flux and reflux of the sea, and the 
mildness of the climate, prevent such a strength of ice as could 
admit the approach of an army that way. 

The lake in which Venice stands, is- a kind of small inner gulph, 
separated from the large one by some islands, at a few miles dis- 
tance. These islands, in a great measure, break the force of the 
Adriatic storms, before they reach the Laguna; yet, in very high 



166 THE FLOWERS OF 

winds, llir: navigation of the lake is dangerous to gondolas, and 
sometimes the gondoliers do not trust themselves, even on the 
canals within the city. This is not so great an inconvcnicncy to 
the inhabitants, as you may imagine; because most of the houses 
have one door opening upon a canal, and another communicating 
with the street; by means of which, and of the bridges, you can 
go to almost any part of the town by land as well as by water. 

The number of inhabitants are computed at 150,000; the streets 
in general are narrow; so are the canals, except the grand canal, 
which is very broad and has a serpentine course through the middle 
of the city. The}' tell you, there are several hundred bridges in 
Venice. What pass under this name, however, are single arches 
thrown over the canals; most of them paltry enough. 

The Rialto consists also of a single arch, but a very noble one, 
and of marble. It is built across the grand canal, near the middle, 
where it is narrowest. This celebrated arch is ninety feet wide on 
the level of the canal, and twenty-four feet high. Its beauty is 
impaired by two rows of booths, or shops, which are erected upon 
it, and divide its upper surface into three narrow streets. The 
view from the Rialto is equally lively and magnificent. The ob- 
jects under your eye are the grand canal, covered with boats and 
gondolas, and flanked on each side with magnificent palaces, 
churches, and spires; but this fine prospect is almost the only one 
in Venice; for except the grand canal, and the canal Regio, all 
the others are narrow and mean; some of them have no quays;- 
the water literally washes the walls of the houses. When you 
sail along those wretched canals, you have no one agreeable ob- 
ject to cheer the sight; and the smell is overwhelmed with the 
stench, which, at certain seasons, exhales from the water. 

SECTION LVIII. 

Of various Natural Beauties in Wales. 

ON our journey we passed through Ludlow, a fine, handsome 
town, which has an old castle, now in a neglected and ruinous 
state; but which by its remains, appears to have been once a very 
strong fortress, and an habitation very suitable to the power and 
dignity of the lord president of Wales, who resided there. Not 
far from this town is Okely park, belonging to lord Powis, and 
part of that forest which Milton, in his masque, supposed to have 
been inhabited by Comus and his rout. The god is now vanish- 
ed; but, at the revolution of every seven years, his rout does not 
fail to keep up orgies there, and in the neighbouring town, as 
lord Powis knows to his cost, for he has spent twenty or thirty 
thousand pounds in entertaining them at these seasons, which is 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 167 

the reason that he ha? iro house at this place fit for him to live 
in. He talks of building one in the park, and the situation de- 
serves it; for there are many scenes, which not only Comus, but 
1he lady of Milton's masque, would have taken delight in, if they 
had received the improvements they are capable, from a man of 
good taste; but they are yet very rude and neglected. In our 
way from hence to Montgomery, we passed through a country 
very romantic and pleasant in many spots; in which we saw 
farms so well situated, that they appeared to us more delightful 
situations than Clermont or Burleigh, At last we came by a gen- 
tleman's house, on the side of a hill opening to a sweet valley; 
which seemed to be built in a taste much superior to that of a 
mere country esquire. We therefore stopt and desired to see it, 
which curiosity was well paid for. We found it the neatest and 
best house, of a moderate size, that we ever saw. The master, 
it seems, was bred to the law, but quitted the profession about 
fifteen years ago, and retired into the country upon an estate of 
five hundred pounds per annum, with a wife and four children; 
notwithstanding which incumbrances, he found means to fit up 
the house in the manner we saw it, with remarkable elegance, and 
to plant all the hill about him with groves and clumps of trees, 
that, together with an admirable prospect seen from it, render it 
a place which a monarch might envy. But, to let you see how 
vulgar minds value such improvement, I must tell you an answer 
made by our guide, who was servant to lord Powis's steward, and 
spoke, I presume, the sense of his master, upon our expressing 
some wonder that this gentleman had been able to do so much 
with so small a fortune. "I do riot, said he, know how it is, 
but he is always doing some nonsense or other." I apprehend 
most of my neighbours will give the same account of my improve- 
ments at Hagley. 

Montgomery town is no better than a village; and all that re- 
mains of an old castle there, is about a third part of a ruinous tow- 
er: but nothing can be finer than the situation of it and the pros- 
pect. It must have been exceedingly strong in ancient times, and 
able to resist all the forces of the Welsh: to bridle them, it was 
built in the reign of William Rufus; three sides of it are a pre- 
cipice quite inaccessible, guarded with a deep and broad ditch. 
I was sorry that more of so noble a castle did not remain, but 
glad to think, that, by our incorporating union with the W'elsh, 
this and many others, which have been erected to se.cu.re the 
neighbouring counties of England against their incursions, or to 
maintain our sovereignty over that fierce and warlike people, are 
now become useless. 

From hence we travelled with infinite pleasure, (through the 
most charming country my eyes ever beheld, or my imagina- 
tion can paint,) to Powis castle, part of which was burnt down 
about thirty years ago: but tliere are still remains of a great 



1GS 'J' HE FJLOWEUS OF 

house, situated so finely, and so nobly, that, were I in the place 
of lord Powis, I should forsake Okely park, with all its beau- 
ties, and fix my seat near there, as the most eligible in every respect. 
About three thousand pounds laid out upon it, would make it the 
most august place in the kingdom. It stands upon the side of a 
very hi^h hill; below lies a vale of incomparable beauty, with the 
Severn winding through it, and the town of Welsh-Pool, termin- 
ated with high mountains. The opposite side is beautifully culti- 
vated half-way up, and green to the top, except in one or two hills, 
whose summits are rocky, and of grotesque shapes, that give va- 
riety and spirit to the prospect. Above the castle is a long ridge 
of hills finely shaded, part of which is the park; and still higher is 
a terrace, up to which you are led through very fine lawns, from 
whence you have a view that exceeds all description. 

The county of Montgomery, which lies within this view, is to 
my eyes one of the most beautiful in South Britain; and though I 
have not been in Scotland, I cannot believe I shall find any place 
there superior, or equal to it; because the highlands are all uncul- 
tivated, and the lowlands want wood; whereas this country is ad- 
mirably shaded with hedge- rows. It has a lovely mixture of corn- 
fields and meadows, though more of the latter. The vales and 
bottoms are large, and the mountains that rise like a rampart all 
around, add a magnificence and grandeur to the scence, without 
giving you any horror or dreadful ideas, because at Powis castle 
they appear at such a distance as not to destroy the beauty and 
softness of the country between them. There are indeed some 
high hills within that inclosure, butrbeing woody and green, they 
make a more pleasing variety, and take off nothing from the pros- 
pect. The castle has an old-fashioned garden just under it, 
which a few alterations might make very pretty; for there is a 
command of water and wood in it, which may be so managed as 
to produce all the beauties that art can add to what liberal nature 
has so lavishly done for this place. 

We went from thence to see Pestill Rhaider, a famous cascade; 
but it did not quite answer my expectations, for though the fall 
is so high, the stream is but narrow, and it wants the compliment 
of wood, the water falling like a spout on an even descent, down 
the middle of a wide naked rock, without any breaks to scatter 
the water. Upon the whole, it gave me but little pleasure. 

After having seen the Velino, we lay that night at the house of 
a gentleman, who had the care of lord Powis's lead mines; it 
stands in a valley, which seems the abode of quiet and security, 
surrounded with very high mountains on all sides; but in itself 
airy, soft and agreeable. If a man was disposed to forget the 
world, and be forgotten by it, he could not find a more proper 
place. In some of those mountains are veins of lead ore, which 
have been so rich as to produce, in times past, twenty thousand 
pounds per annum, to the old duke of Powis, but they are not 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 169 

near so valuable now. Perhaps you will object, that the idea of 
wealth dug up in this place does not consist with that of retire- 
ment. I agree it does not; but, all the wealth being hid under 
ground, the eye sees nothing there but peace and tranquillity. 

The next morning we ascended the mountain of Berwin, one of 
the highest in Wales; and when we came to the top of it, a pros- 
pect opened to us, which struck the rnind with awful astonish- 
ment. Nature is in all her majesty there; but it is the majesty 
of a tyrant, frowning over the ruins and desolations of a country. 
The enormous mountains, or rather rocks, of Merionethshire en- 
closed us all around. There is not upon these mountains a tree 
or shrub, or a blade of grass; nor did we see any marks of habi- 
tation or culture in the whole place. Between them is a solitude 
fit for despair to inhabit; whereas all we had seen before in Wales 
seemed formed to inspire the meditations of love. We were some 
hours in crossing this desert, and then had the view of a fine 
woody vale, but narrow and deep, through which a rivulet ran as 
clear and rapid as the Scotch burns, winding in very agreeable 
forms, with a very pretty cascade. On the edge of this valley we 
travelled on foot, for the steepness of the road would not allow us 
to ride without some danger; and in about half an hour we came 
to a more open country, though still enclosed with hills, in which 
we saw the town of Bala, with its beautiful lake. The town is 
small and ill-built; but the lake is a fine object. It. is about three 
miles in length, and one in breadth; the water of it is clear, and 
of a hright silver colour. The liver Dee runs through very rich 
meadows; at the oiher end are towering high mountains; on the 
sides are grassy hills, but not so well wooded as I could wish them 
to be. There is also a bridge of stone built over the river, and & 
gentleman's house which embellishes the prospect. But what 
Bala is most famous for, is the beauty of its women; and indeed I 
there saw some of the prettiest girls I ever beheld. The lake pro- 
duces very fine trout, and a fish called whiting, peculiar to itself* 
and of a very delicate taste. 

After we left the banks of the lake, where we had an agree- 
able day, we got again into the desert; but less horrid than I have 
already described, the vale being more fertile, and feeding some 
cattle. Nothing remarkable occurred in our ride, until we came 
to Festiniog, a village in Merionethshire, the vale before which 
is the most perfectly beautiful of all we had seen. From tha 
height of this village you have a view of the sea. The hills are 
green, and well shaded with wood. There is a lovely rivulet, 
which winds through the bottom; on each side are meadows, and 
above are corn fields along the sides of the hills; at each end ara 
high mountains, which seemed placed there to guard this charm- 
ing retreat against any invaders. With the woman one loves, 
with the friend of one's heart, and a good study of books, one 
might pass an age there, and th|nk it a day. If one has a mind to 



170 TH"E FLOATERS OF 

live long and renew his youth, let him come and settle at Fes- 
tlniog. Not long ago there died in this neighbourhood, an honest 
Welch farmer, who was 10.3 years of age; by his first wife he had 
30 children, 10 by his second, and 4 by his third; his youngest 
son was 81 years younger than his eldest, and S00 persons, des- 
cended from his body, attended his funeral. 

When we had skirted this happy vale an hour or two, we came 
to a narrow branch of the sea, which is dry at low water. As 
we passed over the sands we were surprised to see that all the cat- 
tle preferred that barren place to the meadows. The guide said it 
was to avoid a fly, which in the heat of the day came out of the 
woods, and infested them in the valleys. The view of the said 
sands is terrible, as they are hemmed in on each side with very 
high hills, but broken into a thousand irregular shapes. At one 
end 1 is. the ocean, at the other the formidable mountain of Snow- 
don, black and naked rocks, which seemed to be piled one above 
another. The summits of some of them are covered with clouds, 
and cannot be ascended. They do altogether strongly excite the 
idea of Burnett, of their being the fragment of a demolished' 
worlds 

In the evening we rode along the sea coast, which is here very 
cold. The grandeur of the ocean, corresponding with that of 
the mountains, formed a majestic and solemn scene; ideas of im- 
mensity swelled and exalted our minds at the sight; all lesser ob- 
jects appeared mean and trifling; so that we could hardly do jus- 
tice to the ruins of an old castle, situated upon the top of a coni- 
cal hill, the foot of which is washed by the sea, and which has 
every feature that can give a romantic appearance. 

Next morning being fair, we ventured to climb up to the top 
of the mouTrfcain-y not indeed so high as Snowdon, which is here 
called Moel Guidon, that is, the nest of the eagle; but one de- 
gree lower than that called Mod Hoppoc/c, the nest of the hawk; 
from whence we saw a phenomenon, new to our eyes, but com- 
mon in Wales; on the one side was midnight, on the other bright 
day. The whole extent of the mountain of Snowdon, on our left 
hand, was wrapped in clouds, from top to bottom; but on the 
right the sun shone most gloriously over the sea-coast of Carnar- 
von. The hill we stood upon was perfectly clear, and the way 
we came up a pretty easy ascent; but before us was a precipice of 
many hundred yards, and below, a vale, which, though not cul- 
tivated, has much savage beauty; the sides were steep, and fring- 
ed with tow wood. 

There were two little lakes, or rather large pools, that stood in 
the bottom, from which run a rivulet, that serpentined in view for 
two or three miles, and was a pleasing relief to the eyes. 

But the mountain of Snowdon, covered with darkness and thick 
clouds, called to my memory the fall of Mount Sinai, with the 
laws deliveied from it, and filled my mind with religious awe. 

Lord Lyttleton. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 171 

SECTION LIX. 
Of Carnarvon, and the Isle of Jlnglesea. 

WHEN I arrived at Carnarvon, I had a very fine view of the 
sea, and one of the finest towns I had seen in England or Wales.; 
the old walls of which, with the towers and bulwarks, are almost 
-entire; they are high and strongly built. The towers are round, 
and rather more of the Roman than the Gothic form of architec- 
ture. At one end they join to the wall of the castle, which is a 
vast and noble building, of which the outside is likewise well pre- 
served, but the inside is demolished. The people here show the 
remains of a chamber, where king Edward It. was born, and re- 
ceived the submission of all the nobility of -Wales, in his cradle. 
The castle itself was built by his father, and is indeed, a noble 
work. 

As we rode from Carnarvon, the country about was softened 
into a scene of the most pleasing kind, and was rendered more 
so by the contrast with that from which we came. We travel- 
Jed along the shore of Menai, an arm of the sea, as broad as the 
Thames, opposite to lord Duncannon's. Our read led us over fine 
shady lawns, perfumed so with honeysuckles, that they were a 
paradiseUo; and over gentle hills, from whence we had a love- 
ly view of the Menai and the isle of Anglesea, which lies on the 
opposite side of it, and then lost them again in agreeable valleys., 
like those of Reading, or the Hertfordshire vales. We enjoyed- 
these scenes for some miles, till we canae to a ferry, by which 
we passed into Anglesea, and landed at the seat of Sir Nicholas 
Bayley, which is the pleasantest spot in the island. He has Goth- 
icised an old house with good judgment and taste. The view 
•from it is charming. He sees the sweet country through which 
we had travelled, from Carnarvon to Snowdon, above it, which 
ennobles the prospect; the Menai winds in a most beautiful man- 
ner just under his windows; Ms woods -shade the banks of it on 
reach side, quite down to the water; above which, intermixed with 
them, are ever-green -lawns, which, if helped with a very little 
art, would, together with his wood, make a garden or park, of 
the m^st perfect beauty; but all is yet in a rude and neglected 
state. From thence we went to Baronhill, the seat of lord Bulk- 
ley, above the town of Beaumaris, in the same island; it has a 
view of the sea, and coast of Carnarvon, which is indeed very 
fine, but I think inferior to that of lord Edgecombe's, with 
which I have heard it compared- The house is a bad -one-: the 
gardens are made in a very fine taste; but, upon the whole I 
like it much less than sir N. Bayley's, though the reputation ©f 
the former is greater in Wales. 



172 THE FLOWERS OP 

All the rest of the isle of Anglesea is a naked and unpleasant 
country, without a tree or hedge to be seen in it, uncultivated 
still, from the obstinacy of the people, in adhering to the igno- 
rance of their forefathers; so that I am told it does not produce 
the tenth part of what the land is capable if improved by the 
agriculture of England. From Beaumaris we rode over the 
sands, at low water, to Penman Mawr, a high and rocky moun- 
tain, the passage over which must have been very frightful, be- 
fore they built a wall along the edge of the wood, which secures 
you from the danger of falling down the precipice that is below 
it, into the sea; but with this guard it is very agreeable, the pros- 
pect of the sea and country being very fine. 

I never saw any thing that struck me more than the first view 
of Conway Castle, to which we soon came, after passing ibis 
mountain. It was built by Edward the First, m much the same 
style with Carnaivon; but stronger and more regular. The situ- 
ation is noble, it stands upon a rock of considerable height; in- 
stead of a ditch, three sides of it are defended by an arm of the 
sea, and four turrets that rise above the towers, besides two 
others at one end standing below the others, about the middle 
of the rock, that overhangs the sea. The walls between are 
battlements, and look very strong; they are, in some places, 
fourteen or fifteen feet thick, in none less than twelve. The 
■whole together has the grandest appearance of any building 
1 ever beheld; especially as the walls of the town, which are 
built like those of Carnarvon, but with bolder and handsomer 
towers, appear right in one view to the eye with the castle, when 
first you approach it. All the oulside remains, except one tower, 
as in the time of PMward he First; and that was not demolished 
cither with battering engines or w^ith cannons, but by the people 
of the place taking stones from the foundation, for their own Ubc, 
whenever they pleased; the consequence of which was, that the 
greatest part of the tower fell into the sea. But the upper part 
more surprisingly continues still firm in the form of an arch; and 
lord Hertford the present proprietor, has forbid any dilapidation 
for the future. We were told his grandfather would have lived 
m this castle, could he have purchased any lands in the country 
about; but finding none to be sold, he dropt the design. 

I wish he had pursued it, for then we might have seen the in- 
side entire; a sight which would have given me a great deal of 
pleasure. But now the floors, ceilings, and roofs, are all taken 
away, so that we can hardly guess at its ancient magnificence. 
The hall must have been a noble room; it is 100 feet long, thirty 
wide, and thirty high. The roof was supported by very beauti- 
ful arches, which still remain. There are two chimnies in it, 
and it was well lighted. The stonework of the windows is ex- 
ceeding handsome. Had our friend Milla (the builder of llagley 
House,) been with us, he would have fallen down and adored the 
architect. The eight towers seem to have contained three very 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 173 

good bed-chambers each, placed one above another, besides some 
upper rooms. The chair bers are eighteen feet diameter, except 
one called the king's chamber, which has a bow window, gained 
out of the thickness of the wall; and the room is by that means 
extended about thirty feet. Over the arch of that window are 
the arms of Edward the First. 

From Conway Castle, we travelled half a day's journey through 
a very romantic couutry, to Rudland, or rather Land-castle, the 
remains of which are less perfect than Carnarvon or Conwa}?; nor 
was it ever equal to them, either in extent or beauty: which I am 
sorry for, as it was built by Henry the Second. 

Not far from hence, at a place called Bodiudan, we passed a 
rainy day in a very comfortable manner, with an old acquaint- 
ance of mine, who is the lady of the castle, and hath forbid all 
depredations, which the people of the neighbourhood used to 
make, by taking it down to build and repair their houses and 
pigsties, which would have demolished it like the tower of 
Conway. 

The next morning we went to the top of the hill, from whence 
we had a view of the whole vale of Clwydd, from one end to the 
other, which is equalled by none in England for fertility and beau- 
ty. There is neither mountain nor rock to be seen in any part of 
it. After you turn your back upon Rudland, the hills on one 
side of it rise very gradually by gentle ascents. Most of them 
are cultivated quite to their summits, others halfway up; and 
when the tops are not enclosed, they area fine grassy down, like 
Clent-hi!l, and shaded and enlivened with wood, like slopes in my 
park. But yet I prefer the scenes in Montgomeryshire to this 
lively vale. There is a great beauty in this, but there is no ma- 
jesty: whereas there, as in the mind of a certain lady, with whom 
J have the honour to be intimately acquainted, the soft and agree- 
able is mixed with the noble, the great, and the sublime. 

About the middle of this vale, upon the brow of a hill, stands 
Denbigh Castle, a very fine ruin; it encloses as much ground as 
Conway or Carnarvon, but hath not so much building. The 
towers of it are standing at a very considerable distance from one 
another, being fewer in number; but they are i;i the same style 
of architecture, having been built in the reign of the same king, 
who by these strong fortresses secured to himself and his poster- 
ity the dominion of North Wales. The hall is still pretty entire, 
and rivals that of Conway, except that the roof doth not appear 
to have been arched. 

The towers are all in a ruinous state. I think it a pity, and 
shame to the owner, that more care is not taken to preserve such 
respectable remains of antiquity. When we left the vale of 
Clwydd, we went into a barren and mountainous country, which 
continued from Rythin as far as Wrexham. 



i 11 THE FLOWERS OF 

From Wrexham we went to Wynstay, the seat of Sir Watkin 
Williams Wynn. Part of the house is old; but he had begun 
building a new one before his death, in a very good taste. One 
wing is finished, and that alone makes a very agreeable house. 
The view from it is the most cheerful I ever beheld. It stands in 
the middle of a very pretty park, and looks over that to a most 
delightful country. But if the park was extended a little farther, 
it would take in a hill, with the view of a valley, most beautiful- 
ly wooded; and the river Dee winding in so romantic and charm- 
ing a manner, that I think it exceeds that of Festiniog, or any 
eonfined prospect I ever beheld. 

Indeed, the country, for five or six miles, is of another tem- 
per, exceedingly fertile, and very romantic. While I was look- 
ing at it, I asked one of my friends, "whether he thought it 
possible for the eves to behold a more pleasing sight." He said, 
"Yes; the sight of a woman one loves. " My answer was, 
"when I was in love, I thought so," Lobd Lvttleto>-. 



SECTION LX. 

*# Travelling Anecdote at Machynlleth, in Wales. 

MACHYNLLETH lies in a small verdant plain surrounded 
with mountains. It stands in the extreme west angle of Mont- 
gomeryshire, and the bridge from the town carried us into Meri- 
oneth. 

I cannot omit a ridiculous circumstance which occurred to us at 
the inn of Machynlleth. 

A gentleman of the neighbourhood politely introduced him sell 
to us, and hearing we travelled to satisfy our curiosity, civilly 
■offered to gratify it, as far as he could. It was natural for me, 
among other things, to inquire about the roads and the inns. I 
therefore asked him, if there was a good house at our next stage? 
He answered there were many; Mr. Lloyd's, Mr. Powell's, Mr. 
Edwards's, &c. I still inquired which was the best. He re- 
plied, they were all very good. But to make him explicit, I per- 
sisted in asking him, whether either of them was as proper, as 
that in which we were? "Sir!" said he, with a peevish surprise, 
"should you take this house for a gentleman's?" 

I quickly explained myself, and begged his pardon. We might 
indeed have travelled through the whole country with a constant 
suite of recommendations; and this gentleman pressed us to ac- 
cept of his invitation to his hospitable friends; but it did not agree 
with our plan, nor had w T e resolution enough to sacrifice our time 
to a daily succession of jolly company. 

Leaving Machynlleth we soon found ourselves in a truly Alpine 
valley; the rapid torrent roarihg over a bed of broken rocks, and 



©ELEBUATED TRAVELLEBS> 175 

how and then interrupted by immense fragments, from which it 
fell in considerable cataracts; the woody and exalted precipices on 
each side of the river, and the mountain brooks continually rat- 
tling about us, formed a romantic picture of the romantic road be- 
tween Aigues Belles and mount Cenis. Towards the extremity 
of this beautiful scene, the huge mountain of Cader Idris present- 
ed its naked, craggy, and prominent cliff, full to our front. I 
never saw an object more awfully sublime; it extends more than 
half a mile in length, and is at least a thousand feet high. 

The road passes under part of this gloomy and tremendous pre- 
cipice, on the right hand, within sight of a large lake on the left, 
and close to the brink of a smaller. It then crosses an arm of Ca- 
der Idris, and, with a quick descent of two rocky miles, ends at 
Dolgelley. Part of this latter path leads through a thin oak wood, 
which hangs over an impetuous torrent, foaming down a rugged 
declivity, as steep as the road. 

The wretched town of Dolgelley is finely situated upon the 
Avon's bank. The vallies around are richly interspersed with 
woods and decent houses, while the mountains bound every pros- 
pect from the town at irregular distances. 

Cader Idris, from the quickness of its ascent, and the nearness 
of its summit, appears much higher than it really is; many people 
on this account, have considered it as the highest mountain in 
Wales: but Snowdon is indisputably higher. 

I could learn no intelligence of its real perpendicular eleva- 
tion; but I should think it must be more than half a mile above 
the level of the river at Dolgelley, which receives the tide. at a 
small distance below the town. 

There appears some spirit in the flannel trade in this neigh- 
bourhood, which extends its busy influence for many miles round 
the country. 

About five miles from Dolgelley, (a few large Scotch firs on 
each side of the road, marking the spot,) "we turned upwards on 
our left, to see a water-fall behind a small house of a widow 
Vaughan. This cataract is broken into two broad parts; the upper 
decends about thirty-five feet, upon a small craggy ridge, and the 
lower about twenty feet, into a romantic basin, encircled with per- 
pendicular or impending rocks. A fine wood surrounds it, and 
some of the largest trees project their shady branches over the 
precipices of the cascade. 

Returning to the highroad, we soon crossed a bridge, under 
which the torrent rattled from the above cascade, down a steep 
declivity, and through disjointed fragments towards the river. 

We quitted the valley two miles further, and ascended a bar- 
ren and dismal mountain. The road continued lonesome and 
melancholy for several miles, but at length conducted us to a com- 
fortable little inn. 



17f THE FLOWERS OF 

My companion's curiosify led him to turn to the right hand 
from nearly the summit of the mountain, which is called Pcn- 
macn, towards the falls of the rivers Mothvaye and Cayne. lie 
found the road exceedingly bad, but this troublesome ride was 
amply repaid by the object in pursuit. The cataracts were very 
deep, and fell in broad sheets of water, through a varied scenery 
of woods and rocks. 

These remarkable cataracts are each of them the fall of a whole 
river, and situated within a quarter of a mile of one another. 
That of the Mothvaye forms two very broad sheets of water, 
divided about half way down by a ridge in the rock, each pait 
being also beautifully broken by frequent crags projecting through 
it. This whole fall may be about seventy or eighty feet in 
depth. 

That of the Cayne is a continued steep fall from rock to rock, 
not near so wide as the former, but much higher. I should ima- 
gine it must be from an hundred and fifty to two hundred feet 
high, but the bottom is of very difficult access. The scjeneiy, 
which immediately surrounds them both, is noble beyond des- 
cription, producing a fine contrast to the naked hills in their 
neighbourhood. Touu through Wales, a. v. 177 i. 



SECTION LXI. 

Of Dublin, and the Hospitality of the Irish. A. D. 1774. 

HAVING crossed St. George's Channel from Liverpool, the 
most prosperous sea-port town on the western coast of England, 
the first land we made was Howth Head, a point of land about 
eight miles east of Dublin, forming the north point of its bay; 
which is about three or four miles wide, and six or seven deep. 
The bar of this harbour is very incommodious; but the entrance 
into the harbour, being at least eight miles from Dublin city, is 
extremely beautiful and picturesque, diversified with hills and 
promontories on either hand, exhibiting a very spacious amphi- 
theatre, bounded by a high shore, and said to be exceeded in 
grandeur by none, except the bay of Naples, to whose superiority 
of view, Mount Vesuvius does not a little contribute. The count- 
ry all round is sprinkled with white villas. From the entrance, 
the light-house on the south side of the harbour appears to great 
advantage. At a little distance from it, is Irish-town (two miles 
distant from Dublin) to wdiich place, the dyke from that city 
reaches; and which, when carried on to che extent proposed, will 
considerably increase the quantity of marsh ground already re- 
trieved from the bay, at the bottom of which the river Liny dis- 
charges itself. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 177 

The city of Dublin is not seen to advantage from the water; 
yet the landscape upon the whole is highly rich and beautiful, 
being horizoned in some places by mountains, exactly conical, 
called the Sugar-loaf hills. I am persuaded there are many who 
would not regret a journey thither for this single prospect, to ren- 
der which complete, a number of circumstances are necessary, 
but which can seldom occur, such as the season of the year, the 
time of the day, and the clearness of the atmosphere when you 
enter the bay. 

The magnitude of the city of Dublin is much greater than is in 
general imagined, being nearer a fourth than a fifth of that of Lon- 
don. If you view it from any of the towers, it seems more; but 
from walking the streets, you would suppose it to be less. In 
1 754, there were 12,S57 houses in this city; but in 1766, they were 
increased to 13,194, and now are further augmented to 13,500; 
which indeed is far short of one fourth the number of houses in 
London; yet there is not so great a disproportion in the number of 
inhabitants, who are supposed, at a moderate computation, to 
amount to 160,000. It is nearly circular, about eight miles in 
circumference. We see it to great advantage from many of its 
steeples, the blue slate having a very, good effect. 

The best view is from Phoenix Park, the Hyde Park of Dub- 
lin, but much more extensive than ours, and would be exquisitely 
beautiful if dressed and planted; but except some thorns and 
clumps of elms, planted by the late lord Chesterfield when he 
was lord lieutenant, there are very few trees upon it. In one part 
of this park his lordship raised a handsome column of free-stone, 
fluted, with a- phoenix on the top, issuing out of a flame; it has an 
inscription on the base, importing that he embellished the park at 
his own expence, for the recreation of the citizens of Dublin; and 
his name is still held in veneration among them. In this Park 
there is a fort. 

The greatest part of Dublin is very indifferent, but the new 
streets are as elegant as the modern streets of Westminster. Late- 
ly liaa been added to it ail elegant otfuare, called Merriun square, 
built in a superb style. Near that is the square called St. Ste- 
phen's Green, each side being near a quarter of a mile, probably 
the largest in Europe, round which is a gravel-walk, of near a 
mile, where genteel company walk in the evenings, and on Sun- 
days after two o'clock. This square has some grand houses, 
and is in general well built; and although there is a great ine- 
quality in the houses, 3^et this in some respect adds to its 
beauty. In the midst of it is an equestrian staure of George II. 
in brass, erected in 175S. The situation is cheerful, and the build- 
ings around it multiply very fast. A new square has lately been 
begun, called Palatine square, near the b arracks, a regular fine 
range of buildings, which, when completed, will considerably 
add to the growing improvements of this city. 
23 



178 THE FLOWERS OF 

The quays of Dublin are its principal beauty. They lie on 
each side of the river Liffy, which is banked and walled in the 
whole length of the city; and at the breadth of a wide street from 
the river on each side, the houses are built fronting each other, 
which has a good effect. This embankment, when paved, will be 
superior to any part of London. 

The Liffy runs for about two miles almost in a straight line 
through the city. It has five bridges over it; of which Essex 
bridge is the most worthy of notice. It consists of five arches 
of stone. The chord of the middle one is forty-eight feet. It 
was begun in 1753, finished in about a year and a half, and cost 
20,000 guineas. It has raised foot-paths, alcoves, and balustrades, 
like Westminster-bridge, of a white stone, coarse but hard. It 
fronts Chapel-street to the north, and Parliament-street to the 
south. The length is two hundred and fifty feet, and the breadth 
much the same as that of Westminster. Queen's bridge was re- 
built in 1764, is exceedingly neat, and consists of three elegant 
arches. The other bridges are not worth mentioning, as they aie 
merely conveniences to save the trouble of ferrying across the 
river, and defy every order of architecture. 

At the end of Essex-bridge, is the elegant new building of the 
Exchange, which does honor to the merchants who conducted it; 
the expence being mostly defrayed by lotteries. The whole is 
of white stone, richly embellished with semi-columns of the 
Corinthian order, a cupola, and other ornaments, with a statue of 
his present majesty George III. erected in 1779. 

Near this, on a little eminence, is situated the castle, the resi- 
dence of the lord lieutenant, which consists of two large courts, 
called the upper and the lower castle-yard; in the latter of which 
are the treasury, and some other public offices. Though there is 
little grandeur in the outward appearance of either, yet, upon the 
whole, this castle is far superior to the palace of St. James's, as well 
in the exterior, as the size and elegance of the apartments within. 

Here are two cathedrals, eighteen parish churches, besides seve- 
ral chapels and nicctjiig houses. isr«itiier of the r.nihprlrals ;trp. re- 
markable for their architecture; and as to the parish churches, except 
on the front of three or four of their steeples, external embellish- 
ments have been little studied. All that seems to have been attended 
to, was neatness and convenience within; but they are generally 
destitute of every monumental decoration. In the cathedrals only, 
can be seen whatever of the monumental kind is worthy of obser- 
vation. 

From the general badness of the streets of Dublin, hackney 
coaches are more frequent in proportion than in London; and sedan 
chairs are every where as common as about St. James's. 

In the year 1749, it was computed, that in the city and liberties 
there were two thousand alehouses, three hundred taverns, and 
twelve thousand brandy shops. At present, in this extensive place, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 179 

there are but seven or eight coffee-houses, and they are resorted to 
for tea and coffee only; not like those in London, where dinners 
and suppers make a very convenient addition; nor are there above 
half a dozen chop-houses; such accommodations being novel in 
Dublin. 

It is very extraordinary, that in this large and populous city, 
there should be such an almost total want of good inns for the enter- 
tainment of strangers and travellers. This defect obliges every 
body, who is acquainted with the place, to get into private lodg- 
ings as soon as he arrives, or to use the hotels lately set up; some 
of which are elegant. 

During my stay here, I was frequently presented with the pic- 
ture of a late tourist, at the bottom of the chamber-vessels, with 
his mouth and eyes open, ready to receive the libation; and on 
enquiry found, that even the utensil now is more frequently call- 
ed by the name of a Twiss than any other, in contempt of the 
illiberal reflections of that gentleman, who was so hospitably re- 
ceived here: indeed hospitality holds its residence here; for it 
is customary for almost every gentleman, who dines with your 
friend, to ask you for a day; nay, they will sometimes invite 
the whole company to be of your party. This social custom is 
still very prevalent, though not so mueh I am told, as it has 
been. 

With respect to drinking, I have been happily disappointed. 
The bottle is circulated freely, but not to the excess we have heard 
it was, and I of course dreaded to find. Common sense is resum- 
ing her empire. The practice of cramming guests is already ex- 
ploded, and that of gorging them is daily losing ground., Where- 
ever I have yet been, I was always desired to do just as I would 
choose; nay, I have been at some tables where the practice of 
drinking healths at dinner was entirely laid aside. Let the cus- 
tom originate whence it may, it is now unnecessary; in many 
cases it is unseasonable, and in all superfluous. 

The tables of the first fashion are covered just as in London; I 
can scarcely see any difference, unless it be that there is more va- 
riety here. Well bred people of different countries approach 
much nearer to each other in their manners, than those who have 
not seen the world. This is visible in the living of the merchants 
of London and Dublin. With these you never see a stinted din- 
ner at two o'clock, with a glass of port after it; but you find a ta- 
ble, not only plentifully but luxuriously spread, with choice wines, 
both at dinner and after it; and which gives the highest zest to 
the entertainment, your host receives you with such an appear- 
ance of liberality and urbanity, as is very pleasing. Here they 
betray no attention to the counter, discover no sombrous gloom of 
computation, but display an open frankness and social vivacity of 
spirit. 



180 THE FLOWEKS OF 

If you prefer the men of this country for their hospitality, and 
the women for their beauty, you are likely to live well with 
them. 

In general, the outskirts of Dublin consist chiefly of huts or ca- 
bins, constructed of mud dried, and mostly without either chim- 
ney or window; and in these miserable kind of dwellings, for the 
greater part of Ireland linger out a wretched existence. A small 
piece of ground is generally annexed to each, whose chief pro- 
duce is potatoes; and on these roots and milk the common Irish 
subsist all the year round, without tasting either bread or meat, 
except perhaps, at Christmas once or twice. What little the men 
can earn by their labour, or the women by their spinning, is ge- 
nerally consumed in whiskey, a spirituous liquor resembling Ge- 
neva. Shoes and stockings are seldom worn by these beings, who 
seem to form a different race from the rest of mankind. Their 
poverty is far greater than that of the Spanish, Portuguese, or 
even the Scotch peasants, notwithstanding which, they wear the 
appearance of content. 

The indigence, of the middling class of people is visible even 
in Dublin; yet from the most attentive and minute inquiries, I 
am confident that the produce of this kingdom, either of corn or 
of cattle is not above two-thirds, at most, of what by good culti- 
vation it might yield; notwithstanding which, the landed gentle- 
men, I believe, make as much, or more off their estates, than any 
in the three kingdoms, while the lands, for equal goodness pro- 
duce the least. The consequence of this, with respect to the dif- 
ferent classes, are obvious; — the landlords first get all that is made 
off the land; and the tenants for their labour get poverty and 
potatoes. 

The roads in Ireland are generally good enough for riding, but 
by no means equal to the English roads for a carriage; and though 
the inns are very far from making the appearance of those in Eng- 
land, yet the English traveller will universally, almost, meet with 
civil usage, good provisions, and, for himself, clean, decent lodg- 
ing; but an English horse, could he speak as well as Balaam's 
vehicle, would curse the country, whose hay and litter are worse 
than can be conceived. Indeed, their oats for the most part are 
tolerably good, excepting two or three counties in the east of Lein- 
ster, and one or two in Ulster. Almost all the straw produced in 
the country is put upon their houses and cabins. The furniture 
of the saddle-horses also, such as saddle, bridle, stirrups, and 
crupper, are frequently made all of straw. Sometimes the bridle 
and stirrups are of cord. 

The high roads throughout the southern and western parts are 
lined with beggars, who live in huts or cabins, of such shocking 
materials and construction, that in hundreds of them you may see 
the smoke ascending through almost every inch of their defence- 
less covering, for scarce one in twenty of them has any window 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 1S1 

or chimney; and through those chasms of course, the rain must 
make its way to drip upon the half-naked, shivering, and almost 
half-starved inhabitants within. Notwithstanding their ill appear- 
ance a traveller is frequently presented with boards at the sides of 
the cabin door, with "dry lodgings and tobacco;" sometimes on- 
ly "good dry lodgings," or, "lodgings and snuff." As a sym- 
bol where milk is sold, they hang out a white rag on a stick. 
Indeed these huts spoil the figure and appearance of the much 
greater number of even their largest towns in the whole king- 
dom, whose entrances are generally dirty, with long strings of 
these despicable hovels, with which most of them are prefaced. 
Into the inland -towns especially, you are generally introduced 
through a line fifty or an hundred of these habitations of poverty 
and oppression, on either hand. Even the metropolis itself is not 
without this disgraceful deformity, which exhibits the penury and 
wretchedness of the tenants, and the mean spiritedness of the 
landlords, who, too generally for their own, or the reputation of 
their country, impose the building houses on their lands, upon a 
set of people, whose abilities will not enable them to build with 
materials so good as those of a swallow's nest; and to the infamy of 
the proprietors may it be said, that most of the farm-houses in Ire- 
land are constructed in this miserable manner. 

Tour through Ireland. 



SECTION LXII. 

Of the comparative Merit of the French and English. 

"A FRENCHMAN," says the earl of Chesterfield, "who, 
with a fund of learning, virtue, and good sense, has the manners 
and good breeding of his country, is the perfection of human na- 
ture." I am not an enemy to the French; but I do not think this 
assertion true. In my opinion, the following would have been 
juster: "An Englishman, who joins manners and good breeding 
to the solidity, energy, and greatness of mind which character- 
ise his country, is the perfection of human nature." I do not 
mean to compliment. But sentiments and actions are upon a more 
elevated scale here than they can be found in any other nation in 
the world. There are no effects without causes; and the causes of 
this are very obvious. We pass our youth with the Greeks and 
Romans. Their great examples expand our souls; the brightness 
of their actions, and the splendour of their principles, kindle the 
most noble passions in our minds; and, when we come to be men, 
the nature of our government feeds this flame, and we glow with 
a certain internal ardour, which occasionally breaks out into ac- 
tion, and which is neither known nor comprehended but in the do- 
minions of Britain. 



182 THE FLOWERS OF 

I do justice here to my country; and my soul feels happy, that 
I am able to give her, with truth, a superiority over the universe 
in genius and magnanimity. But if from this I shall be under- 
stood to think meanly of the French, because they are the rivals 
and enemies of this nation, it would indeed be to misinterpret me 
much. Though I do not think that people equal to this in great- 
ness, I think them a very great people. And if the English are 
superior to the French in all the more elevated qualities which 
dignify and ennoble humanity; so the French surpass the En- 
glish in all the milder and gentler virtues, which grace and 
adorn it. 

In England the French have few friends. But they have one; 
and that one am I. They could not, I acknowledge, have a fee- 
bler advocate; but while I have a tongue to speak, or a pen to 
write, wherever I go I'll do them justice. 

Let every man who knows that nation speak of it as he found 
it. If he lived in their intimacy for years, (as I did,) and if he 
found them ill-natured, ill-mannered, treacherous, and cowardly, 
let him speak his mind. 1 quarrel with no man who judges for 
himself, and who speaks the truth. But let the indulgence I grant 
be granted to me again; and let me be permitted to tell the world, 
that, however other men have found them, I found them good- 
humoured, good-natured, brave, polished, frank, and friendly. 

"They were my friends, faithful and just to me; 

"But Brutus says they are perfidious; 

•'And Brutus is an honourable man. 

"I speak not to disprove what Brutus spoke; 

"But here I am to speak what I do know." 

I found them all animated with a desire to please, and always rea- 
dy to do me every service in their poWer. I owe them a thous- 
and obligations. I had faults; they corrected them. I wanted 
knowledge; they informed me. I was rough; they softened me. 
I was sick; they visited me. I was vain; they flattered me. I 
had need of counsel; they gave me the best advice. Every man 
has need of agreeable company, and every man may be sure to 
find it in France. 

I could be lavish in praise of this nation; but I am sorry to say, 
that too many people here have prejudices against them, as ri- 
diculous as they are ill-founded. They despise the French as if 
they were beings without either sense or sentiment; though their 
writings and actions shew they are full of both. Because two 
states have different interests, is that a reason that every indivi- 
dual belonging to those states should promote, to the utmost of his 
abilities, the interest and glory of the country to which he be- 
longs? It certainly is. And therefore, every Frenchman has the 
same merit in labouring with all his might for the destruction of 
the British fleet, that every Englishman has in exerting all his 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 183 

powers to annihilate the navy of France. If a blast of my breath 
could send all the ships to the bottom of the sea — puff — they were 
sunk before you could finish this period. But is it a reason I 
should hate or despise the French, because I am naturally and ne- 
cessarily the enemy of France? 

The best way I think to judge this matter is, to take two other 
rival nations; Austria and Prussia; Athens and Sparta. Here you 
are dispassionate; your judgment will be just. Do you think it 
the duty of a liberal-minded Prussian to despise an Austrian? Or, 
should a well-born Athenian detest a Lacedaemonian, because he 
is equally animated by the same noble flame that warms himself 
— the love of his country? The nation which is able to rival an- 
other, proves herself worthy the admiration of that nation, even 
by her rivalry; and had I no other reason to consider the French 
as a great people, besides their being able to contend with England, 
that proof for me would be sufficient. 

Rut the French are perfidious in politics. I deny that they 
can be perfidious with the English. They may be treacherous, 
for aught I know with the Austrians and the Spaniards. There 
they profess friendship. They are of the same religion, frequent- 
ly intermarry, and have frequently alliances. With England, 
France has no connection. She may over reach her in poli- 
tics, but she never can deceive her by perfidy; because she 
is her uniform enemy. There is not an infant that does not 
know, that France ever was, and ever will be, the enemy of 
England. The making a peace is not making a friendship; 
and the French will not be more the friends of England when 
this peace is made, than they were five years before the war 
began, or than they are now. The rivalry between the two na- 
tions will last while the nations last. They are litora litoribas 
oontt-aria, opposite in every thing. It is the duty of France to 
depress England as much as she can. It is the duty of England 
to keep down France as much as is. in her power. It is the duty 
of both to do justice to the other. This justice the French do 
render the English. I am sorry I cannot say the English do the 
same by them. Every i ass f men j n France prise the people of 
this country: ^me the solidity or ^ h . understanding, and the 
extent ot their genius; uUiera the energy ana .•- _„ ^ *],„■„ 
character; many their magnanimity and benevolence; and all tnerr 
courage and good faith. While here — but I blush for numbers, 
and am ashamed to finish my period. Sherlock, 



1S4 THE FLOWERS OP 



SECTION LXIII. 



Character of the French Ladies compared with that of the 

English. 

WOMEN are a subject upon which so much has been said and 
written by so many men of abilities, that it is not easy to imagine 
a new light, in which they have not been already placed. But, 
talking of a nation, if one did not say something about so consider- 
able a part of it, the subject must appear mutilated and imper- 
fect. 

Jls brevity is the soul of wit, I should he brief; and I shall 
only touch on the principal points in which the women of France 
differ from those of other countries. 

When a French lady comes into a room, the first thing that 
strikes you is, that she walks better, holds herself better, has her 
head and feet better dressed, her clothes better fancied, and bet- 
ter put on, than any woman you have ever seen. 

When she talks, she ,is the art of pleasing personified. Her 
eyeSj_ her lips, her words, her gestures; are all prepossessing. Her 
language is the language of amiableness; her accents are the ac- 
cents of grace. She embellishes a trifle; she interests upon a 
nothing; she softens upon a contradiction; she takes off the insi- 
pidness of a compliment; by turning it elegantly; and when she 
has a mind, she sharpens and polishes the point of an epigram bet- 
ter than all the women in the world. 

Her eyes sparkle with spirit; the most delightful sallies flash 
from her fancy; in telling a story she is inimitable; the motions 
of her body, and the accents of her tongue, are equally gcntcoi 
and easy; an equal flow of softened sprightliness keeps her con- 
stantly good-humoured and cheerful; and the only objects of her 
life are to please, and to be pleased. 

Her vivacity may sometimes approach to folly; but perhaps it 
is not in her moments of folly she is lea** Jwterestins <" id agree, 
able. English wobio" u ~r" " ,a ny points of superiority over the 
Fren-^-' ''*° rrencn are superior to tliem in many others. I have 
mentioned some of those points in other places. Here I shall only 
say, there is a particular idea in which—no woman in the world can 
compare with the French woman: it is in the power of intellec- 
tual irritation. She will draw wit out of a fool. She strikes 
with such address the chords of self-love, that she gives unexpect- 
ed vigour and agility to fancy; and electrifies a body that appear- 
ed non-electric. 

I have mentioned here the women of England; and I have done 
wrong. I did not intend it when I began the letter. They came 
into my mind as the only women in the world worthy of being 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 185 

compared with those of France. To settle the respective claims 
of the fair sex in these two countries, requires an abler pen than 
mine. I shall not dare to examine it even in a single point; 
nor presume to determine whether, in the important article 
of beauty, form and colour, are to be preferred to expression 
and grace; or whether grace and expresssion are to be consi- 
dered as preferable to complexion and shape . I shall not exam- 
ine whether the piquant of France is to be thought superior to 
the touchant of England; or whether deep sensibility deserves 
to be preferred to animation and wit. So important a subject re- 
quires a volume. I shall only venture to give a trait. If a god- 
dess could be supposed to be formed, compounded of Juno and 
Minerva, that goddess would be the emblem of this country. 
Venus, as she is, with all her amiableness and imperfections, may 
stand, justly enough, for an emblem of French women. I have 
decided the question without intending it; for I have given the 
preference to the women of England. 

One point I had forgotten; and it is a material one. It is not 
to be disputed on; for what I am going to write is the opinion 
and sentiment of the universe. The English women are the best 
wives under heaven — and shame be on the men who make them 
bad husbands! Sherlock. 

SECTION LXIV. 

Of Venice. Ji. D. 1703. 

HAVING often heard Venice represented as one of the most 
defensible cities in the world, I took care to inform myself of the 
particulars in which its strength consists. And these I find are 
chiefly owing to its advantageous situation; for it has neither rocks 
nor fortifications near it, and yet is, perhaps, the most impregna- 
ble town in Europe. It stands at least four miles from any part of 
the Terra Firma; nor are the shallows that lie about it ever frozen 
hard enough to bring over an army from the land side; the con- 
stant flux and reflux of the sea, or the natural mildness of the cli- 
mate, hindering the ice from gathering to any thickness; which 
is an advantage the Hollanders want, when they have laid all their 
country under water. 

On the side that is exposed to the Adriatic, the entrance is so 
difficult to hit, that they have marked it out with several stakes 
driven into the ground, which they could not fail to cut, upon the 
first approach of an enemy's fleet. For this reason they have not 
fortified the little islands, that lie at the entrance, to the best ad- 
vantage, which might otherwise very easily command all the 
passes that lead to the city from the Adriatic. Nor could an or- 
dinary fleet, with bomb-vessels, hope to succeed against a place 
that has always in its arsenal, a considerable number of galleys and 
24 



186 THE FLOWERS OF 

men of war ready to put to sea on a very short warning. If wc 
could therefore suppose them blocked up on all sides, by a power 
too strong for them, both by sea and land, they would be able to 
defend themselves against every thing but famine; and this would 
not be a little mitigated by the great quantities of fish that their 
seas abound with, and that may be taken up in the midst of their 
very streets; which is such a natural magazine as few other places 
can boast of. 

The city stands very convenient for commerce. It has several 
navigable rivers that run up into the body of Italy, by which they 
might supply a great many countries with fish and other commo- 
dities; not to mention their opportunities to the Levant, and each 
side of the Adriatic. But notwithstanding these conveniences, 
their trade is far from being in a flourishing condition, for many 
reasons. The duties are great that are laid on merchandises. 
Their nobles think it below their quality to engage in traffic. 
Their merchants, who are grown rich, and able to manage great 
dealings, buy their nobility, and generally give over trade. Their 
manufactures of cloth, glass, and" silk, formerly the best in Eu- 
rope, are now excelled by those of other countries. They are te- 
nacious of old laws and customs to their great prejudice; whereas 
a trading nation must be still for new changes and expedients, as 
different junctures and emergencies arise. The state is at present 
very sensible of this decay in their trade; and, as a noble Venetian, 
who is still a merchant, told me, they will speedily find out some 
method to redress it: possibly by making a free port, for they 
look with an evil eye upon Leghorn, which draws to it most of 
the vessels bound for Italy. They have hitherto been so ne- 
gligent-in this particular, that many think the Great Duke's gold 
has had no small influence in their councils. 

Venice has several particulars, which are not to be found in 
other cities, and is therefore very entertaining to a traveller. It 
looks at a distance, like a great town half floated by a deluge. 
There are canals every where crossing it, so that one may go to 
most houses either by land or by., water. This is a very great 
convenience to the inhabitants; for a gondola with two oars, at 
Venice, is as magnificent as a coach and six horses with a large 
equipage, in another country; besides that it makes all other car- 
riages extremely cheap. The streets are generally paved with 
brick or free-stone, and always kept very neat; for there is no car- 
riage, not so much as a chair, that passes through them. There 
is an innumerable multitude of very handsome bridges, all of a 
single arch, and without any fence on either side, which would be 
a great inconvenience to a city less sober than Venice. One would 
indeed, wonder that drinking is so little in vogue among the Ve- 
netians, who are in a moist air and a moderate climate, and have 
no such diversions as bowling, hunting, walking, riding, and the 
like exercises, to employ them without doors. But as the nobles 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 187 

are not to converse too much with strangers, they are in no dan- 
ger of learning it; and they are generally too distrustful of one 
another for. the freedoms that are used in such kind of conver- 
sation. 

There are many noble palaces in Venice. Their furniture is 
not commonly very rich, if we except the pictures, which are 
here in greater plenty than in any other place in Europe, from 
the hands of the best, masters of the Lombard school; as Titian, 
Paul Veronese, and Tintoret. The last of these is in greater es- 
teem at Venice than in other parts of Italy. 

The rooms are generally hung with gilt leather, which they ca- 
ver on extraordinary occasions with, tapestry, and hangings of 
greater value. The flooring is a kind of red plaster made of brick, 
ground to powder, and afterwards worked into mortar. It is 
rubbed with oil, and makes a smooth, shining, and beautiful sur- 
face. These particulars are chiefly owing to the moisture of the 
air, which would have an ill effect on other kinds of furniture, as 
it shows itself too visibly in many of their finest pictures. 

Though the Venetians are extremely jealous of any great fame 
or merit in a living member of their commonwealth, they never 
fail of giving a man his due praises, when they are in no danger 
of si*flering from his ambition. For this reason, though there are 
a grt^t many monuments erected to such as have been benefactors 
to the republic, they are generally put up after their deaths. 
Among the many eulogiums that are- given to the Doge, Pisauro, 
who had been ambassador in England, his epitaph says, "In An- 
glia Jacobi Regis obitum, mir?. calliditate celatum, mira sagacitate 
rimatus, priscam benevolentiam firrnavit;" that is, "In England, 
having with wonderful sagacity discovered the death of king James, 
which w T as kept secret with wonderful art, he confirmed the an- 
cient friendship." 

The particular palace 'lurches, and pictures at Venice, are 
enumerated in several IilW ^Ooks that may be bought in the place, 
and have been faithfully transcribed by many voyage-writers. 
When I was at Venice, they were putting out very curious stamps 
of the several edifices, which are most famous for their beauty or 
magnificence. 

The arsenal of Venice is an island of about three miles round. 
It contains all the stores and provisions for war that are not actually 
employed. There are docks for their galleys and pien of war, 
most of them full, as well as work houses for all land and naval 
preparations. That part of it, where the arms are laid, makes a 
great show, and was indeed very extraordinary about a hundred 
years ago; but at present a great part of its furniture is grown 
useless. There seems to be almost as many suits of armour as 
there are guns. The swords are old fashioned and unwieldy, and 
the fire-arms fitted with locks of little convenience, in comparison 
ef those that are now in use. The Venetians pretend they could 



188 THE FLOWF.RS OP 

set out, in case of great necessity, thirty men of war, a hundred 
galleys, and ten galeasses, though I cannot conceive how they 
could man a fleet of half the number. 

It was certainly a mighty error in this state to effect so many 
conquests on the Terra Firma, which has only served to raise 
the jealousy of the Christian princes, and, about three hundred 
years ago, had like to have ended in the utter extirpation of the 
commonwealth; whereas, had thejr applied themselves, with the 
fine politics and industry, to the increase of their strength by sea, 
they might perhaps have had all the islands of the Archipelago in 
their hands, and, by consequence, the greatest fleet, and the most 
seamen, of any other state in Europe. Resides that this would 
have given no jealousy to the princes their neighbors, who would 
have enjoyed their own dominions in peace, and have been very 
well contented to have seen so strong a bulwark against all the 
forces and invasions of the Ottoman empire. 

The republic, however, will still maintain itself, if policy can 
prevail upon force; for it is certain the Venetian senate is one of 
the wisest councils in the w r orld, though at the same time, if we 
believe the reports of several that have been well versed in their 
constitution, a great part of their politics is founded on maxims 
which others do not think consistent with their honour to put in 
practice. The preservation of the republic is that to which all 
other considerations submit. To encourage idleness and luxury 
in the nobility, to cherish ignorance and licentiousness in the cler- 
gy, to keep alive a continual faction in the common people, to 
connive at the viciousness and debauchery of convents, to breed 
dissentions among the nobles of the Terra Firma, to treat a 
brave man with scorn and infamy; in short, to stick at nothing for 
the public interest, are represented as the refined parts of the Ve- 
netian wisdom. 

Among all the instances of their poliuds, there is none more 
admirable than the great secrecy which reigns in their pub- 
lic councils. The senate is generally as numerous as our house 
of commons, if we only reckon the sitting members, and yet car- 
ries its resolutions so privately, that they are seldom known till 
they discover themselves in the execution. It is not many years 
since they had before them a great debate concerning the punish- 
ment of one of their admirals, which lasted a month together, and 
concluded m his condemnation; yet was there none of his friends, 
nor of those \yho had engaged warmly in his defence, that gave 
him the least intimation of what was passing against him, until he 
was actually seized, and in the hands of justice. 

The carnival of Venice is every where talked of. The great 
diversion of the place at that time, as well as on other high occa- 
sions, is masking. The Venetians, who are naturally grave, love 
to give into the follies and entertainments of such seasons, when 
disguised in a false personage. They are, indeed, under a necessi- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 189 

ty of finding out diversions that may agree with the nature of the 
place, and make some amends for the loss of several pleasures, 
which may be met with on the continent. These disguises give 
occasion to abundance of love adventures; for there is some- 
thing more intriguing in the amours of Venice, than in those of 
other countries; and I question not but the secret history of a car- 
nival would make a collection of very diverting novels. 

Operas are another great entertainment of this season: the Italian 
poets, besides the celebrated smoothness of their tongue, have a 
particular advantage above the writers of other nations, in the 
difference of their poetical and prose language. There are indeed 
sets of phrases which in all countries are peculiar to the poets; but 
among the Italians there are not only sentences, but a multitude 
of particular words, that never enter into common discourse. 
They have such a different turn and polishing for poetical use, that 
they drop several of their letters, and appear in another form, 
when they come to be ranged in verse. For this reason the Ita- 
lian Opera seldom sinks into poorness of language, but, amidst 
all the meanness and familiarity of the thoughts, has something 
beautiful and sonorous in the expression. Without this natural 
advantage of the tongue, their present poetry would appear wretch- 
edly low and vulgar, notwithstanding the many strained allego- 
ries that are so much in use among the writers of this nation. 
The English and French, who always use the same words in verse 
as in ordinary conversation, are forced to raise their language with 
metaphors and figures, or by the pompousness of the whole phrase, 
to wear off any littleness that appears in the particular parts which 
compose it. This makes our blank verse, where there is no rhyme 
to support the expression, extiemely difficult to such as are not 
masters in the tongue, especially when they write on low subjects; 
and it is probably for this reason that Milton has made use of such 
frequent transpositions, latinisms, antiquated words and phrases, 
that he might the better deviate from vulgar and ordinary expres- 
sions. 

There is a custom at Venice, which they tell me is peculiar to 
the common people of this country, of singing stanzas out of Tasso. 
They are set to pretty solemn time, and when one begins in any 
part of the poet, it is odds but he will be answered by somebodv 
else that overhears him. So that sometimes you have ten or a 
dozen in the neighbourhood of one another, taking verse after 
verse, and running on with the poem as far as their memories will 
carry them. 

On Holy Thursday, among the several shows that are yearly 
exhibited, I saw one that is odd enough, and particular to the Ve- 
netians. There is a set of artizans, who, by the help of several 
poles, which they lay across each other's shoulders, build them- 
selves up into a kind of pyramid; so that you see a pile of men 
in the air, of four or five rows rising one above another. The 



190 THE FLOWERS OF 

weight is so equally distributed, that every man is very able to 
bear his part of it, the stories, if I may so call them, growing less 
and less as they advance higher and higher. A little boy repre- 
sents the point of the pyramid, who, after a short space, leaps off, 
with a great deal of dexterity, into the arms of one that catches him 
at the bottom. In the same manner the whole building falls to 
pieces. I have been the more particular on this, because it ex- 
plains the following verses of Claudian, which shew that the Ve- 
netians are not the inventors of this trick. 

"Vel qui more avium scse jaculantur in aurus, 

"Corporaque xdificant, celeri crescentia nexu, 

"Quorum compositam puer augmentatus in-arcem 

"Emicat, et vinc&is plants, vel cruribus hxrens, 

"Pendula librato figit vestigia saltu. CtArD. 

"Men, piled on men, with active leaps arise, 

"And build the breathing fabric to the skies; 

"A sprightly youth above the topmast row 

"Points the tall pyramid, and crowns the show." Addisox. 



SECTION LXV. 

Account of a dreadful Inundation of the Sea at Ingeram, 
on the coast of Coromandel, in the East Indies. 

[In a letter from Mr. William Parson to Alexander Dalrymple Esq.] 
My dear Friend, Tngeram, June 7, 1787. 

YOU wish to have a just and circumstantial account of the late 
calamity we have sustained. It is no wonder the accounts you 
have seen should be incoherent and imperfect; for, while the mis- 
fortune was recent, our minds were distracted with a thousand 
fears and apprehensions for the consequences: indeed, people less 
alarmed and less gloomy than ourselves might have admitted the 
apprehension of pestilence and famine; the former, from the air 
being tainted from some thousands of jmtrid carcases both ol 'men 
and cattle; and the latter, from the country around us being 
destroyed, as well as our stock of provisions and the fruits of the 
earth. 

From the 17th of May, it blew hard from the N. E. but as bad 
weather is unusual at such a season, we did not apprehend that it 
would become more serious; but on the 19th at night, it increas- 
ed to a hard gale^ and on the 20th, in the morning, it blew a 
perfect hurricane, insomuch that our houses were presently until- 
ed, our doors and windows beat in, and the railing and part of the 
wall of our enclosures, blown down. A little before eleven it 
came with violence from the sea, and I presently perceived a mul- 
titude of the inhabitants crowding toward my house, crying out 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 1 D 1 

that the sea was coming in upon us. I cast my eyes in that direc- 
tion, and saw it approaching with great rapidity, bearing much 
the same appearance as the bar in Bengal river. As my house 
was situated very low, I did not hesitate to abandon it, directing 
my steps towards the old Factory, in order to avail myself of the 
Terrace; for in that dreadful moment I could not so far reflect upon 
causes or effects, as to account for the phccnomenon, or to set 
bounds to its increase. I had indeed heard of a tradition among 
the natives, that about a century ago the sea ran as high as the 
tallest Palmyra trees, which I have ever disregarded as fabulous, 
till the present unusual appearance called it more forcibly to my 
mind. In my way to the old Factory, I stopped at the door of 
Mr. Boures's house, to apprise the rest of the gentlemen of their 
danger, and the measures I had concerted for my safety. They 
accordingly joined me; but before we attained the place of our des- 
tination, we were nearly intercepted by the torrent of water. As 
the house is built on a high spot, and pretty well elevated from 
the ground, the water never ran above a foot on the first floor, so 
we had no occasion to have recourse to the Terrace. Between 
one and two o'clock, the water began to subside a little, and con- 
tinued gradually decreasing till the body of it had retired; leav- 
ing all the low places, tanks, and wells, full of salt water. I 
think the sea must have risen fifteen feet above its natural level. 
About the time of the water subsiding, the wind favoured it by 
coming round to the southward, from which point it blew the 
hardest. As the Factory house was in a very ruinous state, and 
shook exceedingly at every gust, we were very anxious to get back 
to Mr. Boures's house. I attempted it twice, but found I had 
neither power nor strength to combat the force of the wind, get- 
ting back with the greatest difficulty to my former station. About 
five o'clock, during a short lull, we happily effected our remove. 
It blew very hard the greatest part of the night: at midnight it 
veered to the westward, and was so cold, that I thought we should 
have perished as we reclined in our chairs. 

The gale broke up towards the morning. I shall not attempt 
to describe to you the scene that presented itself to our view, when 
day-light appeared: it was dreary and horrid beyond description. 
The trees were all blighted by the salt Water; and the face of the 
country covered with salt mud; yet it had more the appearance of 
having suffered by a blast of wind, or by the eruption of volca- 
noes, than by an inundation of water; such an effect had it in des- 
troying the herbage and foliage of every description. Our houses 
were found full of the inhabitants, who had taken refuge therein, 
stripped of doors and windows, and quite open to the weather at 
top: the go-downs* mostly carried away, and several substantially 
tiled houses so completely levelled, as scarcely to afford a mark of 

* Stairs at the backs of the houses to descend, in order to take water. 



192 TITE FLOWEHS OF 

their ever existing; but our sufferings were light, when compared 
with those of Coringa, and the rest of the villages nearer the 
sea. At Coringa, out of four thousand inhabitants, it is said not 
more than twenty were saved, and those mostly on Mrs. Corsar's 
Terrace, and on the beams of Captain Webster's house. Mr. 
Gideon Firth, Mr. George Day, and the Portuguese Padre were, 
I believe, the only Europeans that were drowned. At first the 
sea rose gradually, and as it came in with the tide, the people were 
not much alarmed; but when they found it still increase so as to 
render their situation dangerous, they mounted on the top of their 
Cadjan-houses, till the sea, impelled by a strong easterly wind, 
rushed in upon them most furiously, when all the houses at the 
same awful moment gave way, and nearly four thousand souls 
were launched into eternity. This tremendous scene was visible 
from Mrs. Corsar's Terrace, over which the sea sometimes broke, 
and they were frequently in great danger from the drifting of ves- 
sels and other heavy bodies, which must inevitably have brought 
down the house, had they come to contact. At the Dutch village 
of Jaggernaickporan, I hear the distress was very great, and that 
about a thousand lives were lost; many of the villages in the low 
country between Coringa and Jaggernaickporan, were totally 
destroved. and the inundalion carried its dreadful effects as far to 
the northward as Jlpjiorah; but I do not hear that many lives 
were lost at. that place. The inundation penetrated inland about 
ten coss from the sea, in a direct line; but did little more damage 
to the westward of us than destroying the vegetation. It would 
be very difficult to ascertain with any precision the number of 
lives lost in this dreadful visitation: the most intelligent people I 
have conferred with on the subject, state the loss at from ten to 
twenty thousand souls. This is rather an indefinite computation; 
but I think, if the medium be taken, it will then rather exceed 
than fall short of the real loss. They compute that a lack of cat- 
tle were drowned, and from the vast numbers I saw dead at Nel- 
lapilla, I can easily credit their assertion. For two or three days 
after the calamity, such was the langour of the inhabitants, not a 
Cooley or workman was to be procured at any price; it required 
our utmost exertion to get the dead bodies and the dead cattle bu- 
ried with all possible speed, to prevent the air being impregnated 
with putrid effluvia. This, to be sure, was a task we could not 
fully execute, except jusl in the villages. However, no bad effects 
have ensued; which I impute to the continual land winds that 
have blown strongly for some time past. These have the proper- 
ty of drying up the juices of dead bodies, and preventing putre- 
faction, which must necessarily have been the consequence in a 
damp air. It is extraordinary, that the vast tract of low ground 
on the south side of Guadavery from Gotendy to Bundarmalaka, 
suffered very little from the inundation, and scarcely a person 
perished. This country lies so exceedingly low, as to be flooded 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 193 

in many places by the common spring tides; and a great deal of 
it is in consequence covered with salt jungle. It is probable they 
owe their safety to those small islands at the mouth of the Gua- 
davery, as well as Point Guadavery itself, which must have both 
contributed to break the force of the sea. 

When we had recovered from our consternation, on the 21st, 
we began to consider how we should be able to exist in such a 
field of desolation, as our wells were filled with salt water, our 
provisions destroyed, and we found, by digging in different places, 
that no sweet water was to be procured; when it was discovered 
that providence had so far interfered in our favour, as to bring 
down the freshes at a very early and unusual season. From what 
accounts we could hastily gather, we were apprehensive that the 
stores of rice were either much damaged or totally destroyed, as 
the rice go-downs and go-marks are generally secured against an 
accident less formidable than this. However, the event has hap- 
pily falsified our surmises, and proved our information fallacious, 
for rice has hitherto been plentiful and not dear. The generous 
supplies that have been sent us from the Presidency, will, I trust, 
secure us from serious want. Our markets have not yet been at- 
tended by a person with an article for sale; but this is not to be 
wondered at, as our supplies were generally furnished by the vil- 
lages at no great distance inland; and these countries have been 
drenched sufficiently in salt water to destroy their produce. The 
fishermen, a most useful body of people, inhabiting chiefly by the 
sea-side, have been almost totally extirpated; and we are thereby 
deprived of a very material part of our subsistence. Time alone 
can restore us to the comforts we have lost, and we have reason to 
be thankful that things have not turned out so bad as we appre- 
hended. I have tired myself in attempting this narration, and I 
fear I have almost tired you in the perusal of it. A great deal 
more might be said upon the subject, in a flowery garb: if it yields 
a moment's amusement to my friend, my end is fully answered. 
The greatest part o£ this intelligence you have already had, in de- 
tail; but it is your desire I should bring it to one point of view. 
It is hastily written, and very inaccurate; but you will remember 
I was in a good deal of pain at the time of writing it, from an in- 
flammation in my legs, so I had not sufficient ease or leisure to'cor- 
rect or transcribe it. Yours affectionately. William Parson. 



SECTION LXVI. 

Of Montpelier in the South of France. A. D. 1775. 

MONTPELIER is a delightful place of residence. I staid there 
four days, and left it with excessive regret. The town itself is by 
no means beautiful, the streets being almost all narrow, winding, 
25 



194 THE FLOWERS OF 

and badly laid out; but nature seems to have chosea the hills on 
■which it stands, to enrich with her choicest favors. The ascent 
is easy and gradual on every side; and the states of Languedoc 
have ornamented the summit of it at a vast expence, in a manner 
where taste and magnificence are equally blended. 

The prospect from this happy spot I cannot describe, though I 
studied it every day with an enthusiastic pleasure. Raphael's pen- 
cil, or that of Lorraine, might paint it, but not even Shakespeare's 
powers of description could do justice to its beauties. The vales 
of Languedoc, covered with olives, or laid out in vineyards, are 
finely contrasted with rude rocks to the north, and melt away into 
the sea on the south. Though winter has almost stripped the trees 
of their verdure, there is nothing melancholy or desert which pre- 
sents itself to the eye. A sky serene and unclouded, an invigo- 
rating sun, a keen and wholesome air, spread a gaiety over No- 
vember itself, which here is neither accompanied with fogs nor 
rains. Montpelier has, notwithstanding, lost, within these last 
thirty years, that reputation for salubrity which conduces more to 
the support of a place, than any real advantages it may posses*; 
and the number of strangers, who visit.it from motives of health, 
diminishes annually. Some trade is still carried on from thence, 
by a small river called the Les, which empties itself into the sea 
at the distance of a league; but the Mediterranean has been retir- 
ing these three centuries from the whole coast of Languedoc and 
Provence. Frejus, which is situated between Toulon and Antibes, 
where the emperor Augustus laid up his galleys after the battle of 
Actium, is now become an inland city. 

The country from Montpelier to Nismes is a garden, level, and 
every where cultivated. The peasants are just beginning to ga- 
ther olives, which are very numerous, and the trees are planted 
with the same regularity as our orchards in England. 1 cannot 
but envy the inhabitants of this genial climate, and these fertile 
plains, and am ready to accuse nature of partialliy in the infinite 
difference which she has placed between the peasants of Langue- 
doc and of Sweden. In vain will you tell me that the amor pa- 
triae, the attachment we naturally bear to that country where we 
were born, renders them equally happy, and extinguishes all other 
distinctions. I know the force of this principle; I feel and culti- 
vate it with the greatest ardour — but it cannot blind me to the in- 
finite superiority with which certain countries of the earth are 
endowed, above other less favoured latitudes and regions. 

I passed three days at Nismes in the survey of those magnifi- 
cent and beautiful remains of Roman greatness, which yet subsist 
there. They have been described a thousand times, and it is not 
my intention to fatigue you with a repetition of them. The am- 
phitheatre, and the "maison quarive,'-' are known throughout ev- 
ery kingdom of Europe. The first of these impresses the be- 
holder with the deepest veneration; the latter excites the most el- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 195 

egant and refined delight. Indignation against the barbarians who 
could violate and deface these glorious monuments of antiquity, 
will mix with the sensations of every spectator. 

One can scarce believe that Charles Martel, from hatred to the 
Roman name, had the savage fury to fill the corridores of the am- 
phitheatre with wood, to which he set fire with an intent to injure, 
though it surpassed his power to demolish so vast an edifice. Yet, 
notwithstanding these attempts of the barbarous nations, notwith- 
standing the lapse of so many ages, and the effects of time, its ap- 
pearance at present, is the most august and majestic which can be 
presented to the mind or to the senses. The prodigious circum- 
ference of the amphitheatre, the solidity and strength of its con- 
struction, the awful majesty of so vast a pile, half perfect, half in 
ruin, impress one with a tumult of sentiments which it is difficult 
to convey to you by any description. 

The "maision quarree" is in the most complete preservation, 
and appears to me to be the most perfect piece of architecture in 
the world. The order is the Corinthian, and all the beauties of that 
elegant style seem to be exhausted in its construction. This su- 
perb temple is now converted into a chapel, dedicated to the Vir- 
gin, ornamented with gilding, and other holy finery, suitable to 
such an alteration. Wraxall. 



SECTION LXVII. 

Of the Fertility of the Country between Bordeaux and Agen. 

WHEN I left Bordeaux, I took the road to Agen, along the 
southern bank of the Garonne. The country through which I 
passed from Langon, where I crossed the Garonne, to the gates 
of that city, is fertile beyond any I have seen in Europe. The 
hills are all covered with vineyards to the summit, and the val- 
leys scarce require the industry of the peasants to produce in 
plenty, whatever is necessary for their subsistence. The cli- 
mate at this season, is delicious; and no marks of winter appear 
in any of the productions of nature. Cherry trees, figs, acacias, 
poplars, and elms, are in full verdure. In many places, where 
they border on the side of the road, the vines have run up, and 
mixed their clusters among the boughs. This is truly beauti- 
ful and picturesque. Milton in his divine flights of imagination, 
could employ our first parents in no more delightful occupation, 
even in Paradise. 

'Or they led the -vine 



"To wed her elm; she round about him throws 
"Her marriageble arms; and with her brings 
"Her dower, th' adopted clusters, to adorn 
"His barren leaves," 



19G THE FLOWERS 01 

In the toidst of this charming country, in a plain, close to the 
Garonne, stands the city of Agen. Behind it, to the north, rises 
a very high hill, called "L.e Rocher de la belle Vue." I went 
up to the summit, on which there is a convent. The chapel, 
and some of the adjoining cells are hollowed out of the rock. 
It is said that these apartments are very ancient, and were made 
many centuries ago by hermits, who retired thither from motives 
of devotion and austerity. The prospect is beautiful. Beneath 
lies the city of Agen, and through the meadows which surround it 
rolls the Garonne. 

One of the monks showed me the apartments of the convent; 
and in the recesses of the rock he led me to a spring which is ne- 
ver dry, and which he assured me had been opened by miracle, at 
the intercession of some holy recluse in ages past. Their little re- 
fectory was hung with portraits of the same monastic heroes, 
among which was St. William, duke of Aquitaine; and at the up- 
per end, in golden letters, was written, "Silentium." 

Agen is a very mean and disagreeable place; the houses are ill 
built, the streets narrow, crooked and dirty. I saw only one build 
ing in which it appeared to me deserving of notice. It is a chapel 
belonging to a nunnery of Carmelites. The walls are exquisitely 
painted in chiaro obscuro; and the deception of the roof, which is 
executed in the same manner, is admirable. The high altar is 
magnificent, and adorned with a piece of painting, the subject of 
which is very interesting. It is a nun, sinking under the trans- 
ports of holy contemplation. She appears as if incapable of sup- 
porting the divine effulgence of her celestial lover, with eyes half 
closed, and arms expanded. Above, descends a radiant figure, 
with looks of tenderness and pleasure, surrounded with the glories 
of the skies, too strong for mortal sight. If it had not been a re- 
ligious edifice, I should have supposed it to be the story of Jupiter 
and Semele, to which it bears the most apt resemblance. Near 
the piece is this inscription: 

" Quid non conatur amor? 
^ " Coclos in terris adumbrave 

" Carmeli filix tentarunt, 
u Anno salutis 1773." 

Here one cannot help being struck with the justice of a remark, 
which has often been made on the intimate alliance between love 
and devotion, when carried to an excess. The same enthusiasm, 
the same melting language, the same overpowering delights, are 
common to both passions. Love, says Rousseau, in extreme, bor- 
rows the language of devotion; and devotion, in her nights, adopts 
the expressions of attachment and fondness. 

We are used to apprehend the condition of a young woman who 
has taken the veil to be very miserable. Where convenience, or 
chagrin, or melancholy, are the motives to this act of self-dedica- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 197 

tion, I fully concur in that opinion; but there nre women, I doubt 
not, who, in the gloom of a convent, amid shrines and crucifixes, 
are yet supremely happy. Married to a heavenly spouse, and dedi- 
cated to the embraces of a superior and invisible being, enthusiasm 
lias ample room to exert her powers, and raise her votary above 
the poor gratifications of earth. 

"To sounds of heavenly harps she dies away, 
"And melts in visions of eternal day." 

Wraxall. 
SECTION LXVIII. 

Jin account of the different ways that lead into Italy. 

IF you enter Italy by the way of France, you will probably go 
to Lyons. From thence you have your choice, either to go by 
land through Savoy, and across Mount Cenis to Turin; or passing 
through Provence, to embark at Antibes or Nice, for Genoa or 
Leghorn. From Swisserland you may pass Mount St. Gothard; 
from the Valais, Mount St. Bernard; and from Germany you may 
go through the Tyrol. Carriages can pass only by the first and 
last of these routes. In crossing Mount Cenis they must be taken 
to pieces; but the whole road through the Tyrol is not merely 
practicable, but even excellent for a carriage. 

From Lyons to Turin they reckon thirty-five posts, sixty-four 
leagues, or one hundred and ninety-three English miles: the time, 
fifty-six hours. The road passes through the Lyonnois, Savoy 
and Piedmont, by Pont-Beauvoisin and Chambery, over Mount 
Cenis. 

Pont-Beauvoisin, which is fifteen leagues or nine posts from 
Lyons, is on the frontier; a little river separates it into two parts, 
one of which belongs to France and the other to Savoy. 

No sooner had you passed the frontiers of France, than you 
perceive a change of country, climate and people. The mountains 
of Savoy afford a new scene. Woods, rocks, precipicies, cascades 
and torrents, form views that charm an eye fond of rude nature. 
Others find their journey dreary and disagreeable. The road, 
however, is safe and good, and in many places even beautiful. 
From Pont-Beauvoisin you go to Chambery, which, though the 
capital of Savoy, affords nothing worth seeing. The situation 
indeed is fine, in a wide delightful valley, where there is the great- 
est variety of objects that a fine country and mountains can pro- 
duce: but it is a poor dirty town; the houses dark, the streets 
narx-ow, the convents and other public buildings miserable. The 
remainder of the ducal palace, is a castle; over the gate-way are 
the governor's lodgings, commanding the town and adjacent coun- 
try. During the carnival they have plays and masked balls. 



193 i'HK FLOYVg&S Ok 

If, instead of taking the direct route, you go by Geneva, you 
will find it nineteen posts, or ninety-five miles three furlongs, 
from Lyons to that place; the time twenty-one or twenty-two 
hours. From Geneva to Chambcry it is seven posts, or forty -six 
miles and a half; and the time thirteen or fourteen hours. This 
therefore is seventy-two miles out of the way, and will take six- 
teen or seventeen hours more in time. But if you have already 
seen Paris and Lyons, there is a road from Calais to Dijon, by St. 
Omer, Arras, Cambray, Laon, Rheims, Chalons sur Marne, Join- 
ville, and Langres, which is sixty-six posts, or three hundred and 
fifty-one English miles; and from Dijon to Geneva, by Auxonne, 
Dol, Poli°-ny , and from Morey across Mount Jura to Nyons, twen- 
tv-one posts: the time of the whole route about eighty-one hours. 
Whereas, by Paris and Lyons, it will cost one hundred and two 
hours- but during four or five months Mount Jura is impracticable. 

From Geneva, your best way is to hire horses to convey you to 
Chambery, there being very few horses on the road till you come 
into the direct way from France. It is seven posts from Geneva to 
Chambery, and the voiturier will be at least twelve hours in going 
them, unless your carriage is light. If you think this too much 
for one da)', you may set out in the afternoon from Geneva, lie at 
Frangy, and easily arrive at Chambery the next day, time enough 
to see that place. 

Montmelian, which is only a post and a half, or nine miles from 
Chambery, is also most delightfully situated at the head of three 
valleys. The inn is not in the town, but half a league on this 
side of it, and the ascent from it is very steep. Having passed 
the mountain, the road lies in a very narrow valley, which winds 
incessantly. The wine made about Montmelian is much esteem- 
ed. After this you meet with nothing but wretched towns and 
villages, and a country of terrible poverty and filth. The honest, 
plain, and thrifty Savoyards have very little land to cultivate, and 
look extremely unhealthy. Aiguebelle lies in a bottom closely 
surrounded by mountains. It is but a poor straggling village. 
The water is clear, light, and sparkling. 

After you have passed. Aiguebelle, goit7*es or swelled necks be- 
come frequent. St. Jean de Maurienne was formerty the resi- 
dence of the counts of this country. It is situated in the middle 
of the highest Alps, in a valley tolerably wide. The roads are 
pretty good, except through the towns, where they are ill paved, 
and barely wide enough for a carriage to pass. Indeed they are 
in general, narrow, which is no wonder, where there is so little 
land to spare. Frequently you find no more than room for this 
confined way between the steep mountain and the torrent; and in 
some places they are obliged to hew it out of the rock itself. 
Whenever the valley widens a little, you find a miserable village; 
and some of these, as if it were to spare their useful land for culti- 
vation, -are placed in the very bed of the torrent, which occupies 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 19'J 

so large a portion of all that is not barren rock. The road is al- 
most a continual ascent and descent by the side of the Arche, a ri- 
ver which rises in Mount Iserau, and joins the Isere near Montme- 
lian. As you advance, the mountains grow higher and more steep; 
till at length the road closes in a narrow gorge, and a very long 
and heavy ascent to Lannebourg, which is at the foot of Mount 
Cenis. There are about two hundred and twenty houses in this 
village, and about one hundred porters on the Syndic's list, who 
are employed in their turns. 

The inns on this road are very bad; it is therefore advisable, if 
you can bear the fatigue, to go through without stopping. You 
should by all means have the whole day before you to cross Mount 
Cenis, that you may not be hurried in the double operation of tak- 
ing your carriage to pieces, and putting it together again; and that 
3'ou may have-time in the evening to arrive at Suze; in which case 
the next day you will easily reach Turin to dinner. The whole 
passage of the mountain from Lannebourg to Novelze may easily 
be accomplished in four or at most in five hours, and has nothing 
terrible in it; at least from May to October. In a deep snow, in a 
violent tempest, and especially in a great thaw, there is certainly 
some danger; at all other times there is nothing but the inconven- 
ience of taking the carriage in pieces, to send it over the mountains 
on mules; but the people are so adroit in this operation, and re- 
store it to its primitive state so easily, that the whole rather fur- 
nishes amusement than gives pain to the traveller. 

You have it in your option to pass over on mules, or in chaises* 
a-porteurs, which is rush-bottomed elbow chairs, without legs. 
Two men carry them by means of two poles, and they have a foot- 
board. These fellows are very strong and nimble, never missing a 
step, but treading firm in the roughest ways with the agility of 
goats. They relieve each other at proper intervals. In descend- 
ing, they show great dexterity in the frequent windings of the 
mountain. From six to ten of these men are assigned to each per- 
son, in proportion to his size. Their pay is fifty sols of Savoy each, 
that is about two shillings and seven-pence halfpenny. The price 
of a mule to carry the baggage is the same; of a mule to ride, forty 
sols, or two shillings and a penny. A mule is not obliged to carry 
above £50lb. so that if the body of your carriage exceeds that 
weight, they may demand what they please. There is also one 
sedan chair at Suze, which may generally be had by sending notice 
before-hand to the other side of the mountain; and lately they have 
provided other chairs. The ascent is not bad, and is easily per- 
formed in ar ,-hour and a half. At the top is a plain, about five 
miles in length; it is a fine turf, and may be galloped over, not only 
with perfect safety, but with pleasure. There is a beautiful lake 
on this plain, with excellent trout in it. 

It is often related, as a wonderful circumstance, that, there should 
be a lake on the top of Mount Cenis: but the truth is, that this plain 



200 THE FLOWERS Ot 

is no more than a very high valley or gorge of the mountain; and 
though it be indeed the highest part which travellers pass over, 
yet there are lofty peaks which rise at least three thousand feet 
above it. The lake is supplied from the snow that melts on tbese, 
and trickles through the crevices. It gives rise to the river Dora, 
and therefore may be looked upon as one of the sources of the Po. 
You may stop at a public house by the hospital to refresh the men; 
and having traversed the plain, you begin to descend into Pied- 
mont. The prospect on each side, of tall firs, larches, and ches- 
nuts, of natural water-falls and roaring mountain rivers, affords a 
variety at once awful and pleasing. From the plain of St. Nicolas 
you have a view of a beautiful cascade; and half way between the 
great cross and Novaleze you pass a wretched village, called La 
Feiriere. You will be two hours at least in getting to Novaleze. 
The descent is steep.* but no where dangerous. 

Some adventurous people, who return to Italy by the way of 
Mount Cenis in winter, when the mountain is covered with snow, 
slide down on sledges. The descent towards Lannebourg is very 
steep, and it takes almost an hour to go down it, on account of the 
many turnings and windings you are obliged to make; but the whole 
side of the mountain being then covered with one solid smooth 
crust of snow, at the proper place you may put yourself on a sledge, 
with a guide on the fore part of it, who will conduct it, and change 
the direction of it with his foot, whenever it is necessary, and thus 
bring you to the bottom in ten or twelve minutes very safe; or if 
the sledge now and then overturns, they say it is without any bad 
consequence. This is called in French, "se faire ramasser," and 
the place whence you set out, "les ramasses." Novaleze is a poor 
place, with an indifferent inn, where is the first custom-house for 
Piedmont; and a stranger must take cai-e not to have snuff, or any 
new foreign commodities. 

You will quit this place, if you had not time to reach Suze the 
evening before, by nine or ten in the morning, that you may have 
the day before you, and be sure to arrive at Turin before ten o'clock, 
after which hour the gates are not opened. The road to Suze is 
rough and bad, with a steep ascent and descent, and the town is 
not considerable. You will pass the formidable fortress of the Bru- 
netta, along a narrow gorge of the mountain. This is the barrier 
of Italy, and the key of Piedmont. The fortifications are said to 
be well worth seeing, but it is difficult to obtain permission. At 
Suze, in the gardens of the castle, is a triumphal arch, erected in 
the time of Augustus. 

At Rivoli, which is only two leagues from Turin, the King of 
Sardinia has a country house. From hence to the capital is a 
handsome broad strait road, bordered by double rows of fine elms. 
There are some wild and magnificent views between Mount Cenis 
and Turin; and the meadows in some seasons are equal in point of 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 201 

verdure to any in England. They are watered by the Dora, 
which descends with_vast impetuosity from the Alps. 

Tour through Italy. 



SECTION LXIX. 

Character of the Italians. Jl. D. 1776. 

MEDIOCRITY is rare here; every thing is in extremes. 
No where is so fine music to be heard; no where (except at the 
opera of Paris] are the ears so cruelly tortured. The eyes are 
charmed and tortured alternately by the most superb and most de- 
testable pictures and statues. No citizens; an excessive luxury 
amongst individuals; and the people in the most abject misery. 

It is the same with regard to religion; you will see nothing but a 
blind superstition, or determined atheists. But of all the extremes, 
the most striking are those which are observed in the character 
of the nation. The Italian, in general, is exceedingly good, or 
wicked to a degree. There are excellent hearts in this country; 
but, like the great pictures, they are scarce. Men are born 
there with strong passions; and not receiving any education, it is 
not astonishing that they often commit great crimes. Under a 
cold exterior they conceal burning hearts; and their exterior is 
cold only to conceal their hearts. Love, jealousy and revenge, 
are their ruling passions. As they think only of the sensual part 
of love, and know well the constitutions of their women, and the 
wiles of their rivals, their jealousy is always awake, and their re- 
venge is implacable. 

As to understanding, it is nearly the same; men of talents form 
the large class; there are few fools; and middling men are very 
rare. "Why then, you will ask, do these men produce nothing 
excellent?" Because they have uugoverned imaginations, and no 
philosophy; and because good taste has not yet penetrated into 
their country. And why has not good taste entered Italy?. Be- 
cause Italy has neither a London nor a Paris, and because she never 
had a Lewis the Fourteenth. 

Travellers are often mistaken in judging of the Italian, especi- 
ally the Neapolitan. They think he has no sense, because he 
wants ideas. A man can have but few ideas when he has never 
been out of his own country, and when he has read nothing; but 
examine the Neapolitan on all the subjects with which he is ac- 
quainted, and you will see whether he wants natural capacity. He 
resembles the soil of his own country. A field well tilled in Na- 
ples produces the most plentiful crops; neglected, it yields but 
briers and thistles. It is the same with the genius of the inhabi- 
tants; cultivated, it is capable of every thing; untilled, it produces 
only folly and vice. Sherlock. 

26 



202 THE FLOWERS OF 



SECTION LXX. 



Two curious remarks. 

I MADE two observations in my travels; one that the people 
of every country make something well; the other, that every na- 
tion has a peculiar manner of ruining itself. The English ruii 
themselves by play; the French, by women; the Irish, by hospi- 
tality; the Swiss, by drinking; and the Germans, by a multitude 
of servants. I should not have said every, I should have said al- 
most every. The Italians don't ruin themselves, because they 
are ruined already. However, individuals among them do; some 
Milanese, for example, by eating; some Venetians, by gallantry 
and gaming; some Neapolitans, by equipages and embroidery; 
and several Romans, by every species of impurity. Neither do 
the Dutch ruin themselves; it is not, however, because they are 
too phlegmatic to ruin themselves any way. The few who do des- 
troy themselves, do it by avarice, by lending money at exorbitant 
interest on bad securities. 

There are Dutchmen too who ruin themselves by flowers. I do 
not guarantee the truth of this anecdote; though I heard it from 
persons of veracity in Holland: — A man, whose passion was for 
flowers, and who had an uncommon fine tulip-root of a very par- 
ticular kind, heard that another florist had one as fine as his. He 
purchased it from him for a sum of money so large; I dare not 
mention it; and when he had got it into his possession, he" broke 
it to pieces with his heel, saying, "Now there is not in the world 
another tulip-root equal to mine." 

Every nation excels too in making something. The French 
make gold and silver stuffs, and political lies, better than any 
people in the world. The Italians make ices, maccaroni, and re- 
ligious lies, to admiration. The Saxons make excellent porcelain. 
The Dutch are famous for making sea landscapes; the Flemish, for 
making lace. And the English — why the English, I think, make 
men and women better than any nation I know. 

There is a better race of men and women in England than I 
have ever seen in any other country. If any one asks me ivhy it 
is so? I answer, I can't tell. If he asks me how I knoiv it is so? 
I answer by looking at them. There is also a better race of *dogs 
and horses here than in any other country I have seen; but there 
are, too, a great many garrons and curs. 

Sherlock. 



Not to speak of a-great many promising puppies. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 203 

SECTION LXXI. 

The reasons why the French have more wit and belter spirits 
than the English. 

SIR, says a man to Swift I have a mind to set up for a wit. Sir, 
says Swift, I advise you to set down again. This was very good 
advice, particularly in this country, where, that same author has 
observed, not one man in ten thousand has wit. Almost every 
body is witty in France. Why then there, and not here? The 
reasons are purely physical; for Englishmen ought to have twenty 
times more wit than Frenchmen. 

Ideas are the matter of which wit is made, and the English 
have infinitely more ideas than the French. This arises from their 
early education, from their being a more reading people, &c. 
You see this is a very strong reason why the English ought to be 
superior to the French in this point. 

But if ideas are the materials, fancy is the instrument which 
operates on those materials; and here comes in the superiority of 
the French. Their fancies are livelier, brighter and quicker. 

The force of the imagination depends a great deal on the influ- 
ence of the animal spirits; its brightness on the refinement of those 
spirits; and its quickness, on the celerity of their movement. 
Now, in point of copiousness of spirits, the English, I believe, 
have the advantage of the French. A bull has more spirits in him 
than an ape; but the ape's spirits are alwa}^s in motion, and it is 
very difficult to move the bull's. This, you see, is a case in point; 
and John Bull, i am persuaded, has a greater quantity of spirits 
than Jack Singe. But the Frenchmen's spirits are more refined 
and quicker in their motions than ours, and this for a number of 
reasons. I shall here mention some of the principal. 

A Frenchman never tastes malt liquor, he eats no butter, and 
his bread is light. The meat in France is not near so fat as it is 
here, and it is much better dressed. The sauces are poignant and 
not greasy. He eats a great deal of soup and light vegetables. 
He drinks in moderation as much wine and water as is necessary to 
dilute his dinner, and then he takes as much good wine, coffee and 
liqueurs, as is necessary to heat his stomach and quicken the cir- 
culation of his blood, and no more. Add to this the pureness of 
the air, and the light society of the most amiable women in the 
world, in which he passes so much of his time; and you will see 
reasons enough why his spirits should be quicker in their motion, 
and more refined than ours. 

I need not mention how opposite our manner of living is; the 
quantities of blood-food we eat, the quantity of bad wine we drink, 
the grossness of our atmosphere, nor many other causes that hin- 
der the celerity of our fancies, and consequently impede consider- 
ably the vivacity of our wit. 



204 THE FLOWERS OP 

However, the English do not think much of the superiority of 
the French in this article. They pique themselves on having bet- 
ter sense and more learning than their neighbours; and they have 
more sense and learning. The French allow this, and it does not 
give them any uneasiness. They value themselves in being wit- 
tier and more amiable than the English. When a Frenchman 
has knowledge, and is grown a little steady, his company is de- 
lightful; when an Englishman has fancy and good manners, his 
society is enchanting. I always thought that those two nations, 
blended together, would produce perfection in every thing. 

Sherlock. 



SECTION LXXII. 
Of Edinburgh. .1. D. 1774. 

THE situation of Edinburgh is probably as extraordinary an 
one as can be well imagined for a metropolis. The immense hills, 
on which a great part of it is built, though they make the views un- 
commonly magnificent, not only in many places render it impass- 
able for carriages, but very fatiguing for walking. The principal 
or great street, runs along the ridge of a very high hill, which, 
taking a rise from the palace of Holyrood house, ascends, and not 
very gradually for the length of a mile and a quarter, and after 
opening a spacious area, terminates in the castle. On one side, as 
far as the eye can reach, you view the sea, the port of Leith, its 
harbour and various vessels, the river Forth, the immense hills 
around, some of which ascend above even the castle; and on the 
other side you look over a rich and cultivated country, terminated 
by the dark, abrupt, and barren hills of the Highlands. 

The famous street at Lisle, La Rue Royale, leading to the Porte 
de Tournay, which is said to be the finest in Europe, is not to be 
compared either in length or breadth, to the High-street at Edin- 
burgh; and would they be at the expense of removing some build- 
ings which obstruct the view by being placed in the middle of the 
street, nothing could be conceived more magnificent. Not con- 
tent, however, with this, they suffer a weekly market to be held, 
in which stalls are erected nearly the whole length of it, and 
make a confusion almost impossible to be conceived. All sorts of 
iron and copper ware, are exposed to sale; here likewise the herb 
market is held, and the herb women, who are in no country, either 
the most peaceable or the most cleanly beings on earth, throw 
about the roots, stalks, &c. of the bad vegetables, to the great 
nuisance of the passengers. 

The style of building here is much like the French. The 
houses, however, in general are higher, as some rise to twelve, 
and one in particular to thirteen stories in height. But to the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 205 

front of the street, nine or ten stories is the common run. It is 
the back of the edifice; which, by being built on the slope of a 
hill, sinks to that amazing depth, so as to form the above number. 
This mode of dwelling, tKough very proper for the turbulent times 
to which it was adapted, has now lost its convenience. As they 
stand no longer in need of defence from the castle, they no more 
find the benefit of being crowded together so near it. The com- 
mon staircase, which leads to the apartments of the different in- 
habitants, must always be dirty, and is in general, very dark and 
narrow. It has this advantage, however, that as they are all of 
stone they have little to apprehend from fire; which, in the opinion 
of some, would more than compensate for every other disadvantage. 
In general, however, the highest and lowest tenements are pos- 
sessed by -the artificers, while the gentry and better sort of people 
dwell in fifth and sixth stories. 

In London such an habitation would not be deemed the most 
eligible, and many a man in such a situation would not be sorry 
to descend a little lower. The style of building here has given 
rise to different ideas. Some years ago, a Scotch gentleman, 
who went to London for the first time, took the uppermost story 
of a lodging house, and was very much surprised to find what he 
thought the genteelest place at the lowest price. His friends who 
came to see him in vain acquainted him with the mistake he had 
been guilty of: "He ken'd vary weel," he said, "what gentility 
was, and when he had lived all his life in a sixth story, he was 
not come to London to live upon the ground." 

From the right of the High-street you pass over a very long- 
bridge to the New Town. Before this bridge was built, you had 
a very steep hill to descend and ascend, which was found ex- 
tremely inconvenient. A subscription therefore was entered into 
to build one: and a most stupendous Avork it is indeed. It is 
thrown over this immense valley; and as no water runs under it, 
you have the whole effect of its height. From it you have a fine 
view up and down the vale, and the prospect through the middle 
arch is inconceivably beautiful. Not long ago a part of this 
bridge gave way, and many people who were upon it sunk into 
the chasm, and were buried in the ruins. Many others who were 
likewise on the bridge, saw the fate of their unfortunate compan- 
ions, without being able to assist them. All was terror and con- 
sternation. Every one fled from this scene of death as fast as 
possible, expecting the bridge to sink under them at every step, 
and themselves to be crushed to pieces. When the bridge was 
cleared, and the general consternation had a little subsided, il was 
found that only a small part had given way, which they are now 
repairing, and making stronger than ever. But so great was the 
fear it occasioned amongst all ranks of people, that many look 
upon it with terror even to this day, and make an objection to 
residing in the New Town, that they must necessarily pass over it. 



30G THE FLOWEKS OF 

The New Town has been built upon one uniform plan, which is 
the only means of making a city beautiful. Great part of this 
plan as yet remains to be executed, though they proceed as fast as 
their supplies of money will allow them. The rent of the houses 
in general amounts to an hundred pounds per annum, or upwards, 
and most of them are let to the inhabitants by builders, who buy 
the ground and make what advantage they can of it. The great- 
est part of the New Town is built after the manner of the Eng- 
lish, and the houses are what they call here, "houses to them- 
selves." Though this mode of living, one would imagine is much 
preferable to the former, yet such is the force of prejudice, that 
there are many people who prefer a little dark confined tenement 
on a sixth story to the convenience of a whole house. One old 
lady fancies she should be lost if she was to get into such an habi- 
tation, another, that she should be blown away in going over the 
new bridge; and a third lives in the old style, because she is sure 
that these new fashions can come to "nae gud." But different as 
these sentiments are in regard to living, they are not more differ- 
ent than the buildings themselves. In no town that I ever saw, 
can such a contrast be found betwixt the modern and ancient 
architecture, or any thing that better merits the observation of a 
stranger. 

The pavement of the whole town is excellent. The granite, 
which long supplied London, till Jersey and Guernsey robbed 
them of those advantages, is dug from the hills close to the town, 
and brought at very small expence. Maitland, in his history of 
this town, calls it "grey marble;'-' but without disputing about 
the propriety of the name, every one must allow it the very best 
stone possible for the purpose. They finish it with an exactness 
which the London workmen are indifferent about, and which in- 
deed London would not admit of, from the number o5 weighty 
carriages that continually go over it. 

From the left of the High-street you pass down by a number of 
different alleys, or, as they call them here, wynds and closes, to 
the different parts of the whole town. They are many of them 
so \nery steep, that it requires great attention to the feet to prevent 
falling; but so well accustomed are the Scotch to that position of 
body required in descending these declivities, that I have seen a 
Scotch girl run down them with great swiftness in pattens. 

This town has long been reproached with many uncleanly cus- 
toms. A gentleman who lately published his travels through 
Spain, says, "that Madrid some years ago, might have vied with 
Edinburgh in filthiness."' It probably may be some pleasure to 
this author, and to those who read him, to learn that his remarks 
are now very erroneous. 

But if a stranger may be allowed to complain, it would be, 
that in these wynds, which are very numerous, the dirt is some- 
times suffered to remain two or three days without removal, and 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 2Q7 

becomes offensive to more senses than one. The magistrates, by- 
imposing fines and other punishments, have long put a stop to the 
throwing any thing from the windows into the open street. But 
as these alleys are unlighted, narrow and removed from public 
view, they still continue these practices with impunity. Many 
an elegant suit of clothes has been spoiled; many a powdered 
well-dressed maccaroni sent home for the evening; and to con- 
clude this period in Dr. Johnson's own simple words, "Many a 
full-flowing periwig moistened into fiaccidity." 

Such particulars, however, as these, scarce merit observation. 
They are circumstances resulting from the peculiar inconveniency 
of the buildings, and not from the natural disposition of the 
Scotch, who love cleanliness and practise it. They lament the im- 
propriety of these customs, and join in the laugh at the accidents 
they occasion. 

It has been the misfortune of almost every nation to be pre- 
judged at a distance, or to be visited by a number of men whose 
resolutions are too strong for conviction. They come with a fixed 
idea, that the Scotch are a dirty people. They probably meet 
with some person who is so, and would be so in any country; and 
away they hurry back, and give, as they think, the just character 
of the whole nation. It has been the peculiar fortune of the 
Scotch to have been thus treated; but they are a sensible and ingeni- 
ous people, and look upon these hasty censures in the manner 
they deserve. But to every man, who is, "Nullius addictus ju- 
rare in verba magistri," and who is bigoted to no particular cus- 
toms, I make no scruple of declaring, that this metropolis is not, 
as some of our countrymen please to say, dirty and disagreeable; 
but adorned with many elegant and beautiful structures, the seat 
of several of the most ingenious men in Europe; and who are an 
honour to the age they live in, abounding in many of the politer 
embellishments for life, and well deserving the attention of a 
traveller. 

Topham's Letters from Edinburgh. 



SECTION LXXIII. 

A SINGULAR ANECDOTE. 

On our first arrival at Edinburgh, my companion and self, after 
the fatigue of a long day's journey, upon inquiring for an inn, 
were taken to a house, where we were conducted by a girl without 
shoes or stockings, and with only a single linsey-woollen petticoat, 
which just reached half-way to her ancles, into a room where about 
twenty Scotch drovers had been regaling themselves with whiskey 
and potatoes. You may guess our amazement, when we were 
informed, "That this was the best inn in the metropolis — that 



203 CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 

we could have no beds, unless we had an inclination to sleep to- 
gether, and in the same room with the company which a stage- 
► coach had that moment discharged." Well, said I to my friend, 
(for I have more patience on these occasions than wit on any 
other) there is nothing like seeing men and manners; perhaps we 
may be able to repose ourselves at some coffee-house. Accordingly, 
on enquiry, we discovered that there was a good dame by the 
Cross, who acted in the double capacity of pouring out coffee, or 
letting lodgings to strangers as Ave were. She was easily to be 
found out; and with all the conciliating complaisance of a Mai- 
tresse d'Hotel, conducted us to our destined apartments, which 
were indeed six stories high; but so infernal to appearance, that 
you would have thought yourself in the regions of Erebus. The 
truth of this I will venture to say, you will make no scruple to 
believe, when I tell you, that in the whole we had only two win- 
dows, which looked into an alley five feet wide, where the houses 
were at least ten stories high, and the alley itself was so sombre 
in the brightest sun-shine, that it was impossible to see any object 
distinctly. 

And now I am in the story-telling humor, I cannot omit giving an 
account of an adventure which happened here very lately to a friend 
of mine;as it tallies in some measure with what I have already relat- 
ed, and serves to confirm the wretchedness of accommodation which 
must be put up with in this city. A gentleman from London, 
who had been appointed to some duty in a public office, came to 
Edinburgh, and having no friends to furnish him with a bed, and 
few acquaintances to give him any assistance, found himself 
obliged to conceal himself in one of these dark abodes, in order 
to be nigh the centre of the town, where his employment com- 
pelled him to pass most part of the day. As he perceived his 
lodgings as good as his neighbors', it induced him to continue 
there, until he discovered himself extremely weak and emaciated, 
occasioned by constant violent perspirations, in which he waked 
every morning. The observation which some of his associates 
made on the alteration of his embonpoint, and the situation to 
which he was reduced, (for from a stout and lusty man he was now 
become a mere shadow,) persuaded him to think himself really ill, 
and in a consumption. Accordingly he sent for the professor, 
and another or two of the learned fraternity, who, with all the 
sigriificancy of pompous physic, pronounced him to be in a very 
declining state, and administered every restorative which the 
JEsculapian art could suggest or supply. But all without effect. 
He still continued to grow worse; and at length, almost totally ex- 
hausted and giving himself up a prey to despair, he sent up for 
his landlady to be a witness to his will; who, much concerned for 
the melancholy event, and with tears in her eyes, said, "How 
unfortunate she had been since she kept house; that her two former 
lodgers had died with her; that she was sure she did every 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 209 

thing to serve them all; that for her part, she always took care 
that their linen was well aired; and as for her rooms, nothing could 
be more drier or more free from dampness; that her neighbour, 
good man, was a baker, and his oven was directly under them; 
that she was sure, therefore, they must be warm, and it was im- 
possible to catch cold in her house." — ''Good God," cried the 
gentleman, "an oven under my room! no wonder I am in a con- 
sumption, after having been baked for these three months." 
Upon which he sent for the baker, and found what she said was 
really true; that the oven was immediately under his bed, and the 
decrease of his health had been in proportion to the increase of 
the baker's business. The discovery, therefore, being a much 
better medicine than any the professors could prescribe, he 
quitted this enfer; by degrees recovered his strength and consti- 
tution, and lives now to ridicule the oddity of the accident. 

After all this, I am sure every one will agree with me, that 
it is extremely strange, that a city, which is a thoroughfare into 
all Scotland, and now little inferior in politenesss to London 
in many respects, should not be better furnished with conveniences 
for strangers, or have a public lodging-house where you can find 
tolerable entertainment. But it really has not; and I am the more 
surprised at it, as, in their manner of living, and many customs, 
I think the inhabitants much resemble the French. But in this 
particular, what a difference between this place and Paris! where 
in a minute you may be provided with a house equal to one of 
the greatest nobility, with servants, equipage, and all the luxuries 
of elegance and taste; whilst at Edinburg, without an inn to put 
your head into, and without a lodging that you can breathe in, 
you are obliged to bless your stars to get any place to repose your- 
self, till better fortune, or better acquaintance, have interest 
enough to procure it in some private house. — It is a pity, — it is a 
disgrace to the country; and I should hope, ere long, the pride or 
good sense of Scotland, will so far prevail, as to establish a hotel* 
in some suitable part of the town, to obviate the inconvenience of 
the want of these necessaries. Topham, 



SECTION LXXIV. 

Of the hospitality and good-breeding of the Scotch; their 
language, particular beauties of it, and expressions. 

THIS country has long been celebrated for its hospitality to 
strangers; and I am sure I can with great truth add my humble 

* There are two elegant hotels in the New Town, and a tavern on the new 
bridge. There are also several coffee-houses, and apartments in the Old Town in 
the English taste. 

37 



210 THE FLOWERS OF 

suffrage to this general observation. They do not think they hare 
paid you all the attention that is necessary, when they have in- 
vited you once to dinner, and then take no more notice of you. 
They are eager to show you repeated civilities. They are happy 
to explain, to inform you of what is really curious in their coun- 
try. They give you a general invitation to their houses. They 
beg of^ you to visit them familiarly, and are sorry if you do not do 
so. I am ashamed to say that many of my countrymen seem to 
have forgot all their kindness the moment they returned over 
the Tweed. I trust those waters will never wash away my remem- 
brance, but that I shall always be proud to own the hospitality of 
the Sctoch, and the civilities I received in Scotland. 

I know of no quality more conspicuous in the inhabitants of 
this country, than complaisance; which is common to every age 
and sex, but more particularly to the women, who seem to make 
it a study to oblige and endeavour to emulate each other in good- 
breeding; which, I think, is the art of showing people, by external 
signs, the inward regard which we have for them. As nothing 
indicates the judgment of a nation more than good-breeding, so 
it likewise discovers their good nature. For politeness is, in my 
opinion, the result not only of good nature, but of good sense. 
It gives a lustre to every other charm, and conceals in a great de- 
gree, every disadvantage which women may lie under in their 
persons. But I assure you, the Scotch ladies have no need of this 
enchanting accomplishment on the last account. Nature has been 
as liberal to them in decorating their external parts, as in ornament- 
ing their minds; and I believe, as few nations excel them in beauty, 
as in advantages derived from disposition and education. No \vo- 
InSlx understand better the rules of decorum, nor are they rivaled by 
the French in the talent of agreeable conversation, for which they 
seem to be better calculated, as well from their superior knowledge 
of the world, as from their more extensive acquaintance with books 
and literature. 

When you are told, that on the first introduction to a lady in this 
country, you are favoured with a salute which immediately dis- 
covers the fragrance of her breath, the downy velvet of her skin, 
and pearly enamel of her teeth; that the first word which she ut- 
ters to you is either My good friend, or My dear sir, which, soft- 
ened by the sweetness of her voice and affability of her manner, 
must receive an additional degree of warmth and kindness; can 
you wonder that I am so enamoured with their company? or rather 
do you not wonder that I can think of leaving them? But alas! 
alas! the time approaches for my departure; and if it was not for 
one dear object, who attracks me, like the faithful steel, to the 
magic circle of her arms, it would be with the utmost regret I 
should bid farewell to a country, which is the land of pleasure, 
rapture and delight. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 211 

But suppose you should say, that these words, though very 
pleasing at first, on account of their novelty, must soon lose their 
charm, when we come to be acquainted, that they are mere 
words of custom and ceremony, and uttered without any inten- 
tion of good-will or sincerity; and that expressions of kindness, 
when they arc not known to be the marks and effects of kindness, 
are empty sounds; I must grant, that by degrees they become 
habitual, and not operate so strongly by use, as on a stranger. 
But surely, at any time they are the highest signs of complaisance; 
and giving the appearance of truth to actions, and a strong desire 
to please and oblige, certainly produce a partiality for the speaker; 
not by the words, which in common speech signify scarce any 
thing; but because by these words he shows that he thinks you 
worth notice. Expressions of this nature are ingenious flattery. 
It makes those to whom it is paid, flatter themselves, whilst they 
look on it as a declaration of merit in themselves: and pray, 
what mortal man does not love to be flattered by a lady? For 
my own part, if it is a fault, I must plead guilty; and though I 
detest it as much as hypocrisy in the male part of our species, I 
am not proof against it when assisted by the fire of sparkling eyes 
and delivered by female eloquence. A staunch philosopher would 
derive this credulity from the original perverseness of human na- 
ture; and in the same manner as Adam swallowed the forbidden fruit, 
though he knew it contained none of those excellent qualities as- 
cribed to it by Eve; so we, his*progeny, are tempted by the flattery 
of the fair sex, and are sure to give it credit, notwithstanding we 
are conscious of its-juiitruthaiid insincerity. 

The Scotch language has one beauty, in which it greatly excels 
the English, and in which also it conforms to the Italian; that of 
diminutives, which are created at pleasure and expressed in one 
word, by the addition of a letter or syllable. Thus, they say, 
"manny, doggy, catty," for a little man, dog or cat; "wifey," 
for a little wife; and if it was necessary to speak of an inanimate 
thing, they do it also in the same manner; as a "bucklcy, knifey, 
bookey, housey," for a little buckle, knife, book and house. I 
need not tell you how emphatical this makes their tongue, and 
what an improvement it is on ours. But their pronunciation and 
accent is far from being agreeable. It gives an air of gravity, 
sedateness and importance to their words; which though of use 
sometimes in an harangue or public discourse, in common conver- 
sation seems dull, heavy, stupid and unharmonious. On which 
account I scarcely ever heard a Scotchman tell a good story in all 
my life: for notwithstanding he might put it in all the circum- 
stances to work it to a point, he would be sure to spoil it by his 
deficiency in manner, and remove the sting, which ought to tickle 
the imagination of the hearer, by appearing not to feel it himself. 
The inhabitants of this place, Who are acquainted with the Eng- 
lish, are sensible of this, and endeavour to speak like them, espe- 



212 THE FL0WEUS OF 

cially the politer sort of people, and the professors of the college, 
who, in their lectures, strive to shake off the Scotch pronuncia- 
tion as much as possible. The literary productions of this country 
being well known, it is unnecessary for me to make any observa- 
tions on their style. I shall only say, that they appear to me, 
from their conversation, to write English as a foreign tongue; 
their mode of talking, phrase and expression, but little resembling 
the language of their works; though I cannot but add, that even 
some of them, in their conversation, are fond of showing their 
learning by making use of words derived from the ancient lan- 
guages. Amenity is a favorite word of a celebrated historian, 
who is truly the boast of his country; who, in private reputation, 
has as few equals, as, in public, superiors; and whose works may 
be justly said to be "non ludicra cantilena ad momentum tempo- 
ris sed monumentum ad aeternitatem." Topiiam. 



SECTION LXXV. 

Of the suppers of the Scotch and their manner of conduct- 
ing them. 

A MAN who visits this country, after having been in France, 
will find, in a thousand instances, the resemblance which there is 
betwixt those two nations. That air of mirth and vivacity, that 
quick and penetrating look, that spirit of gaity which distin- 
guishes the French, is equally visible in the Scotch. It is the 
character of the nation; and it is a very happy one, as it makes 
them disregard even their poverty. Where there is any material 
difference, I believe it may be attributed to the difference of their 
religion; for that same catholic religion, to say the truth of it, is 
a most comfortable one. The article of absolution is certainly a 
blessed invention, and renders the spirits free and unclouded, by 
placing all the burthens of our sins upon another man's back. A 
poor Englishman goes fretting and groaning, and carrying his 
miserable face into all companies, as contagious as an epidemical 
disorder, without one soul to take compassion of him, or pity his 
weakness: and should he not have a wife or family at home who 
cannot avoid him, he finds no person who will bear his infirmities, 
or look as sad as he does; but is constrained to wander about an un- 
sociable being, till the month of November, and maladie Jln- 
gloise, relieve him from his distresses- 

But though the Scotch have no absolution, they have something 
very like it — a superstitious reliance on the efficacy of going con- 
stantly to church. Many of them may be said to pass half their 
lives there; for they go almost without ceasing, and look as sor- 
rowful at the time as if they were going, not only to bury their 
sins, but themselves. At other hours, they are as cheerful and 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 213 

as gay as possible; and probably from hence arises that ease, that 
spirit in their conversation, which charms in every company, and 
which is the life of every society. They see no harm in inno- 
cent familiarity. They think a frank and unrestrained behaviour 
the best sign of a good heart; and agree with Lord Shaftesbury, 
"that gravity is the very essence of imposture." 

Whenever the Scotch of both sexes meet, they do not appear 
as if they had never seen each other before, or wished never to 
see each other again. They do not sit in sullen silence, looking 
on the ground, biting their nails, and at a loss what to do with 
themselves; and if some one should be hard)>- enough to break si- 
lence, start, as if they were shot through the ear with a pistol. 
But they address each other at -first sight, and with an empresse- 
ment that is highly pleasing. They appear to be satisfied with 
one another, or at least, if they really are not so, they have the 
prudence to conceal their dislike. To see them in perfection, is 
to see them at their entertainments. 

When dinners are given here, they are invitations of form. 
The entertainment of pleasure is their suppers, which resemble 
the petits soupers of France. Of these they are very fond; and it 
is a mark of their friendship to be admitted to be of the party. 
It is in these meetings that the pleasures of society and conversa- 
tion reign, when the restraints of ceremony are banished, and you 
see people really as they are: and I must say, in honour of the 
Scotch, that I never met a more agreeable people, with more plea- 
sing or more insinuating manners, in my life. These little parties 
generally consist of about seven or eight persons, which prevents 
the conversation from being particular, and which it always must 
be in larger companies. During the supper, which continues some 
time, the Scotch ladies drink more wine than an English woman 
could well bear; but the climate requires it, and probably in some 
measure it may enliven their natural vivacity. Without quoting 
foreign authorities, you will allow that a certain degree of wine 
adds great life to conversation. An Englishman, we know, is 
sometimes esteemed the best companion in the world after the se- 
cond bottle; and who, before that, would not have opened his lips 
for the universe. After supper is removed, and they are tired of 
conversing, they vary the scene by singing, in which many of the 
Scotch excel. There is a plaintive simplicity in the generality of 
their songs, to which the words are extremely well adapted, and 
which, from the mouth of a pretty Scotch girl, is inconceivably 
attracting. You frequently feel the force of those very expres- 
sions, that at another time you would not understand, when they 
are sung by a young person, whose inclinations and affections are 
frequently expressed in the terms made use of, and which the 
heart claims as its own. The eye, the whole countenance, speak 
frequently as much as the voice; for I have sometimes found that 
I had a very just idea of the tenor of a song, though I did not 



214 THE FLOWERS OF 

comprehend three Words in the whole. Formerly it was the cus- 
tom for the bagpipe to play during their entertainments, and every 
family had their bard. In these songs, were rehearsed the martial 
and heroic deeds of their ancestors, as invectives to their own cou- 
rage; but in these piping times of peace, "our stern alarms are 
changed to merry meetings," and tales of love and gentleness have 
succeeded to those of war. Instead of the drowsy hum of a bag- 
pipe, which would certainly have laid my noble courage asleep, 
the voice of some pretty girl claims your attention, which, in my 
opinion, is no bad change. I must confess, I have not much 
opinion of those feasts "of other times," where your ears were 
continually stunned with the murders such as men had committed, 
and where he was continually told of what he had already done, 
that he might perform the same again. His modesty must cer- 
tainly be put out of the question, otherwise he could never have 
sat to hear a detail of his own deeds. It is observed of a Welch 
hero, "that he was a devout man, a great warrior, and an excel- 
lent piper; and that he could play with great skill the son^s of all 
his actions." This is still better; with such authority, ought any 
man to be blamed for talking of himself, and being the hero of his 
own tale? While every one is railing at the present times, it is 
some consolation to find, that in many instances our forefathers 
were as absurd as we are; and that if we possess little, we have at 
least the negative merit of not boasting of what we have. I own 
I feel a pleasure in reconciling us to ourselves; for as some ingen- 
ious writers have proved that we are every way inferior to our 
ancestors, since we cannot rise to them, the only way left is to 
bring them down to us. Topham. 



SECTION LXXVL 
Of the Civility of the Common People in Scotland. 

I FIND the vulgar inhabitants of this country as varying ia 
their disposition from those of the southern parts of Great Britain, 
as the Ethiopians from the natives of Mexico, and as unlike, as 
if they were antipodes. Though Scotland and England together 
are very minute in comparison with any of the countries on the 
European continent, yet you cannot conceive a greater dissimi- 
larity of manners; and so wide is the difference, that you would 
think the distance between them was from heaven to earth. I 
speak of the common people only; for the polished and polite are 
nearly the same in many respects. 

Instead of that stubborn rudeness, and uncouth mind, that shy- 
ness and barbarism, which is even cultivated by our peasants, you 
find in the lowest hind in Scotland a compliant obsequiousness and 
softness of temper, an ambition to oblige, and a sociability which 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 215 

charms you. They are naturally grave, hospitable, and friendly; 
and have such a peculiar attachment to their own country and fa- 
milies, that, were I to relate to you the wonderful accounts which 
I have listened to with astonishment, you would not but think 
that I was bordering on romance. 

But what distinguishes them from the vulgar inhabitants of al- 
most any nation, is that peculiar desire to oblige and instruct, a 
philanthropy which they discover, on all occasions, to be of service 
and to do good, and which never can fail of rendering their in- 
tercourse and conversation most agreeable, and of the greatest uti- 
lity to the traveller. 

In a wild and uncultivated country, in a miserable hovel, desti- 
tute of every convenience of life, exposed to all the inclemencies 
of climate, without common necessaries to drag on a wretched, 
uncomfortable being, it is here you meet with souls, generous, 
contented, and happy, ever ready to the call of humanity, religious 
and charitable. 

In a short tour that I lately made to the Highlands, an oppor» 
tunity presented itself of making my observations on the minds of 
this people; since I mixed with them, conversed on variety of sub- 
jects, lived in their families, and passed with them many a happy 
hour. As I frequently wandered over the mountains with my 
gun, I often found a sequestered village, which had little commu- 
nication with the rest of mankind, that had received scarce any 
form or fashion from art and human invention; and, consequently, 
not far remote from its original simplicity. One day a storm drove 
me to seek shelter in a small cottage, which I by chance espied in 
a deep valley at the foot of one of their mountains; and, on enter- 
ing, I saw a venerable old woman, with another about thirty, and 
five or six pretty infants, which, by their resemblance, I easily 
discovered to be her children, all employed in some domestic con- 
cern, and waiting the return of the master of the family, who, I af- 
terwards found, was gone to provide some fish and other necessa- 
ries, from a small town on the banks of the neighbouring lake. 
When they perceived me at the door, the mother of the little ones 
came immediately to meet me, and, with a countenance full of be- 
nevolence and hospitality, saluted me in the Earse language; 
which, though I did not understand it, seemed to welcome to what- 
ever they could afford, or I could expect to find there. She then 
reached me a stool, which was made of rushes, seeing I did not 
comprehend her tongue, and was pointing to me to sit down by 
the fire, when I addressed myself to the old lady in the corner, 
and demanded whether she could speak English, but they all 
shook their heads and were silent. I then unloaded my game-bag, 
which contained a white hare, and some plarmigan, and began to 
court their good opinion, by presenting them to the children, and 
endeavouring to divert them, by shewing them my shooting im- 
plements, and other things which I had in my pocket, and which 



31G THE FLOWERS OF 

seemed to give them much delight; the woman, in the mean time, 
making signs to me to pull off my wet clothes, and holding out a 
plaid which they had warmed by the fire. On my seeming to re- 
fuse their kind offices, they shook themselves and looked sorrow- 
ful, which meant, as I since learned, if I did not change my dress, 
I should catch an ague; a disorder to which they were extremely 
subject. 

As the weather continued to threaten, and night was not far off. 
I sat myself down by the hearth, and amused myself by pulling oil 
the feathers of one of the birds, which I made them comprehend 
would be very acceptable, as I had eat nothing almost the whole 
day; and just as I was preparing to boil it, the highlander opened 
the door, and expressing his surprise at finding a stranger had 
taken possession of his household goods, in a free and good natured 
tone of voice, in the Spotch language, begged of me to proceed in 
my employ, and inquired the reason of this visit; adding, with a 
smile, "that I must have entertained his wife and mother ex- 
tremely well during his absence, to become so familiar with them; 
especially as they did not understand me, and had never in their 
lives beheld the face of any human person, except a few of their 
own clan, who inhabited the other side of the hill." 

When I had told him my story, and intrcated pardon for the 
freedom I had taken, he embraced me with the highest degree of 
rapture, and ordering the others to do the same, told me, "the gen- 
tleman with whom I had been, and to whose house I wished to re- 
turn the next day, was the head of his clan; that he respected him, 
and would die for him; and since I was a visitor to the Laird, I 
claimed from him every kind of hospitality and convenience, 
which his poor pittance could supply; though he added, as a stran- 
ger who had lost his way, I had a right to civility and assistance 
from every man. 

When I had finished niy ptarmigan, of which they would none 
of them partake, he produced on the table some dried fish, cheese, 
and oat cake, of which they all ate with an appetite that discovered 
their poverty, and that brought to my remembrance the saying of 
the philosopher, that "He that eats with an empty stomach needs 
no variety of food; he that drinks only for thirst desires least 
change of liquor; and he that wants least, comes nearest to the 
gods." On our being satisfied, he gave some to the infants, and 
said a grace in the presbyterian form, praising God with more fer- 
vent devotion than ever I met with in an English bishop at the ad- 
ministration of the sacrament. 

The rest of the night we spent in conversation, whilst they plied 
me heartily with whiskey; and I answered a number of questions 
which were demanded of me by the woman, through him as in- 
terpreter; till at length, overpowered by fatigue, I reposed myself 
in a plaid, by the fire, and enjoyed as sound a slumber, as if my 
head had been pillowed on down, 

"Under a canopy of costly state." 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 217 

The morning rose, and I took farewell of my kind hostesses, 
who parted with me with many expressions of friendship; and, if 
I may judge from their countenance, wished that the stormy wea- 
ther had continued, that I might have been detained longer. The 
highlander accompanied me across the mountains in my progress 
homeward, cheering the dreariness of the way by his entertaining 
discourse, concerning the antiquity of his family, and the ancestors 
of his Laird, whom he had followed in the rebellion, and under 
whose banners he had ventured his life and fortune. We had now 
arrived within sight of the house of my friend, when he wished 
me health and success through life, and that I might never go fur- 
ther out of my right way, than when I wandered to his habitation. 
I paid this kindness with all the coin I was then master of, and 
parted with a thousand thanks and gratitude for his civilities. 

I have detained you all this" while with this length of story, in 
order to paint to you the true character of a Scotch peasant; and I 
dare say you will be astonished to find so many virtues in a family 
in the Highlands, where the inhabitants are thought by us to be in 
a state of barbarism. But such, I assure you, they all are, 

"Extrema per illos, 
"Jiistitia excedens terris vestigia fecit." 

Even in Edinburgh, the same spirit runs through the common 
people, who are infinitely more civil, humanized, and hospitable, 
than any I ever met with. Every one is ready to serve and assist 
a stranger; they show the greatest respect to a person superior to 
them, and you never receive an impertinent answer. As to their 
country, it is beautiful and grand to a miracle, and though far from, 
being temperate, is so healthy, that you hear of fewer disorders 
than amongst any other people; and I declare, in every part that I 
have been, I never saw either an exceedingly deformed person, or an 
aged, toothless, paralytic highlander. They eat a great quantity 
of fish dried in the sun, and a cake made of oatmeal, baked hard 
and flat. Their constant liquor is whiskey, which is also made 
from oats, has a quick taste, extremely heady, but comfortable to 
the stomach; unpalatable to strangers., though hot and nourishing 
to those who are used to it. Topham.. 



SECTION LXXVH. 

Of the Public and Private Diversions of the Inhabitants of 
Edinburgh; and manner of educating the Young Ladies. T 

THEY have at Edinburgh an elegant playhouse, and tolerable 
performers; assemblies, concerts, public gardens, and walks, card 
parties, and a hundred other diversions, which in some degree 

28 



2 IS THE FLOWERS OF 

keep me from pining for your Festino, Bache's concert, or Al- 
mack's. 

As the genius of any people is not more easily discovered in 
their serious moments, than when they give a loose to freedom 
and pleasure; so the Scotch nation is peculiarly characterized by 
the mode of their diversions. A sober, sedate elegance pervades 
them all, hlended with an ease and propriety which delights, and is 
sure to meet with approbation. A Scotchman docs not relax him- 
self for amusements, as if to pass away the hour. He seems even 
in the height of pleasure, busy and intent, and as he would do, 
were he about to gain some advantage. His diversions are not 
calculated to seduce the unwary, or recreate the idle, but to un- 
bend the mind, without corrupting it. He seems as if in his in- 
fancy he had been taught to make learning his diversion, and was 
now reversing it, and making his diversion his study. 

But besides the public entertainments of this city, which are 
derived from company, the inhabitants have more resources of 
pleasure within themselves than in many other placed. The young 
people paint, draw, are fond of music, or employ their hours in 
reading, and acquiring the accomplishments of the mind. Every 
boarding school JVJiss has something of this kind to recommend 
her, and make her an agreeable companion; and instead of a little 
smattering of French, which is the highest ambition to attain in 
Queen's square, you find them in Edinburgh entertaining in con- 
version, sentimental, and well informed. The mode of educa- 
tion of the young ladies is here highly to be commended, and ad- 
mirably calculated to make them' good wives. Besides needle- 
work, and those trifling arts, which are the principal part of their 
instruction in England, the precepts of morality, virtue, and ho- 
nour, are taught them from their earliest infancy, whilsjt they are 
instructed to consider themselves as beings born for society, for 
more than outside appearance, and transitory pleasure, and to. at- 
tend to the knowledge of what is useful, rather than the economy 
of a tambour frame. The ladies also who undertake this arduous 
task of instruction, are persons much better qualified in general 
than in other countries. They likewise introduce them into the 
politest company, and give them a taste for elegant and proper 
amusements: so that when they leave school, they are not only 
mistresses of those accomplishments which are necessary to com- 
mand a family, but have the deportment and behaviour of expe- 
rienced women of fashion. 

No ladies in Scotland ever murder the precious moments in 
what is called "work,' which is neither entertainment nor profit, 
merely because they must have the appearance of doing something, 
whilst they see every one employed around them. They let no 
minute escape without its respective office, which may be of utility 
to themselves or others; and after a proper sacrifice to reading and 
literature, gain instruction from society and conversation. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 219 

I have often thought it a principal defect in the education of the 
English ladies, that they are taught to pay so much attention to the 
practice of sewing work, and other needle operations, whilst they 
neglect learning of greater importance and pleasure. Since they 
have minds equally capable of instruction with the other sex, why 
should they not be enlightened with the same kind of knowledge? 
especially as they seem more suited to it, as well from their supe- 
rior sensibility, as their greater leisure and domestic life. Why 
should the characteristic which distinguishes us from brutes, be so 
strongly cultivated in the male, and have so little attention paid 
to it in the female species? Wisdom and science are not perfections 
in us merely because we are men, but as reasonable creatures, who 
have the pre-eminence over the rest of the creation. Tt is indeed 
necessary for the ladies to know these things, in order to qualify 
them for domestic economy; but 1 have no idea of any woman, ex- 
cept her whose circumstances cannot afford the expense of paying 
a servant, making them her employ, or putting them in practice. 

The married ladies of this city seldom entertain large sets of 
company, or have routes, as in London. They give the preference 
to private parties, and converzations, where they play at cards for 
small sums, and never run the risk of being obliged to discharge a 
debt of honour at the expense of their virtue and innocence. They 
often frequent the theatre, and show great taste and judgment in 
the choice of plays, where Mr. Digges performs a principal cha- 
racter. 

As to exercise, they seldom ride on horseback; but find much 
pleasure in walking, to which the soil and country is peculiarly 
adapted, being dry, pleasant, and abounding in prospects and ro- 
mantic scenes. It is likewise customary for them to drive in their 
carriages to the sands at Leith and Musselburgh, and parade back- 
wards and forwards, after the manner of Scarborough, and other 
public places of sea bathing resort. For vivacity and agility in 
dancing, none excel the Scotch ladies. Their execution in reels 
and country dances is amazing; and the variety of steps which 
they introduce, and the justness of their ear is beyond description. 
They are very fond also of minuets, but fall greatly short in the 
performance of them, as they are deficient in grace and elegance 
in their motions. Many of them play on the harpsichord and gui- 
tar, and some have music in their voices, though they rather love 
to hear others perform than play themselves. 

I do not think the Scotch ladies are great proficients in the lan- 
guages. They rarely attempt any thing further than the French; 
which, indeed, they speak with great propriety, fluency, and good 
accent; but they make up for it in their accurate and just know- 
ledge of their own. They talk very grammatically, are peculiarly 
attentive to the conformily of their words to their ideas, and are 
great critics in the English tongue. They chiefly read history 
and plaintive poetry; but elegies and pastorals are their favourites. 



22-0 TUB FLOWERS OF 

Novels and romances they feci and admire; and those chiefly 
which are tender, sympathetic, soothing, or melancholy. Their 
hearts are soft, and full of passion, and a well told story makes a 
deep impression on them. JLike virgin wax, a gentle heat molifies 
their minds, which reflects the finest touches of art and sentiment. 

Nor are the gentlemen in Edinburgh less rational in their diver- 
sions than the ladies. There is only one in which I can cen- 
sure their conduct. They rather pay too much respect to the di- 
vinity of Bacchus, and offer too copious libations at the shrine of 
that jovial deity. Their wines, indeed, of all kinds, are excellent, 
and their climate not the most comfortable; so that some allowance 
ought to be made them in that respect. But as they are, they are 
by no means so intemperate as the Germans; and, perhaps, their 
appearing to me in the least intemperate, may be occasioned by 
my peculiar aversion to, and abstinence from, all intoxicating li- 
quors. I have neither taste to relish, nor head to bear them. I 
have no idea of a man extending the pleasure of drinking beyond 
thirst; or forcing, in imagination, an appetite artificial, and against 
nature. 

The youths in this country are very manly in their exercises and 
amusements. Strength and agility seem to be most their attention. 
The insignificant pastimes of marbles, tops, &c. they are totally 
unacquainted with. The diversion which is peculiar to Scotland, 
and in which all ages find great pleasure, is golf. They play at it 
with a small leathern ball, like a fives ball, and a piece of wood, 
flat on one side, in the shape of a small bat, which is fastened at 
the end of a stick, of three or four feet long, at right angles to it. 
The art consists in striking the ball with this instrument, into a 
hole in the ground in a smaller number of strokes than your ad- 
versary. This game has the superiority of cricket and tennis, in 
being less violent and dangerous; but in point of dexterity and 
amusement, by no means to be compared with them. However, 
I am informed that some skill and nicety are necessary to strike 
the ball to the proposed distance and no further, and that in this 
there is a considerable difference in players. It requires no great 
exertion and strength, and all ranks and ages play at it. They in- 
struct their children in it, as soon as they can run alone, and grey 
hairs boast their execution. As to their other diversions, they 
dance, play at cards, love shooting, hunting, and the pleasures of 
the field; but are proficients in none of them. When they are 
young, indeed, they dance, in the manner of their country, ex- 
tremely well; but afterwards, (to speak in the language of the turf) 
they train off, and are too robust and muscular to possess either 
grace or agilitv. Topham. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 221 

SECTION LXXVIII. 

Of the Hague and Rotterdam. 

NOTHING- can be more agreeable than travelling in Holland. 
The whole country appears a large garden; the roads are well 
paved, shaded on each side with rows of trees, and bordered with 
large canals, full of boats passing and repassing. Every twenty 
paces gives you the prospect of some villa, and every four hours 
that of a large town, so surprisingly neat, I am sure you would be 
charmed with them. The Hague is certainly one of the finest vil- 
lages in the world. Here are several squares finely built, and 
(what I think a particular beauty) the whole set with thick large 
trees. The Voor-hout is, at the same time, the Hyde-Park and 
Mall of the people of quality; for the}' - take the air in it both on 
foot and in coaches. 

The appearance of Rotterdam gives one very great pleasure. 
All the streets are paved with broad stones, and before many of the 
meanest artificers' doors are placed seats of various coloured mar- 
bles, so neatly kept, that I assure you I walked almost over the 
town yesterday, incognito, in my slippers, without receiving one 
spot of dirt; and you may see the Dutch maids washing the pave- 
ment of the streets with more application than ours do our bed- 
chambers. 

The town seems so full of people, with such busy faces, all in 
motion, that I can hardly fancy it is not some celebrated fair; but I 
see it is every day the same. It is certain no town can be more 
advantageously situated for commerce. Here are seven large ca- 
nals, on which the merchant ships come up to the very doors of 
their houses. The shops and warehouses are of a surprising neat- 
ness and magnificence, filled with an incredible quantity of fine 
merchandise, and so much cheaper than what we see in England, 
that I have much ado to persuade myself I am still so near it, 
Here is neither dirt nor beggary to be seen. One is not shocked 
with those loathsome cripples so common in London, nor teazed 
with the importunity of idle persons that choose to be nasty and 
lazy. The common servants and little shop-women here are more 
nifiely clean than some of our ladies; and the great variety of neat 
dresses (every woman dressing her head after her own fashion) i 
an additional pleasure in seeing the town. 

Lady M. W. Montague. 



222 fHE FI.OWEBS OF 

SECTION LXXIX. 

•Another Account of Rotterdam and the Hague. Jl. D. 178-i. 

ROTTERDAM lies on the north side of the Maese, about fif- 
teen miles from -the sea, is of a triangular form, and, in point of 
trade, inferior only to Amsterdam; in the spaciousness of the 
streets, and elegance of the houses, infinitely beyond it. The ca- 
nals are so large as to admit ships of two or three hundred tons, 
even to the very doors of the merchants; and I know not so ro- 
mantic a sight, as to see from the environs, the chimnies, masts of 
ships, and the tops of trees, so promiscuously huddled together, 
that it would require a degree of divination to tell whether it is a 
town, a fleet, or a forest. 

The grandest, as well as most agreeable street in Rotterdam, is 
the Bomb Quay, which lies parallel with the Maese. On one side 
it is open to the river, and the other is ornamented with a grand 
facade of the best houses in the city, inhabited chiefly by the En- 
glish. They are five or six stories high, massy, and very clumsy. 
Wherever there is any attempt at ornament, it is the worst that 
can be conceived. One sees no Grecian architecture, except Doric 
entablatures, stuck upon the top of the upper story, without pilas- 
ters; Ionic volutes, turned often the wrong way, and an attempt at 
Corinthian capitals, without any other part of the order. The 
doors are large, and stuck with great knobs and clumsy carving. 
You ascend to them, not in front, but by three or four steps going 
up on each side, and you are assisted by iron rails of a most im- 
mense thickness. These houses are almost all window, and the 
window shutters and frames being painted green, the glass has all 
a green cast, which is helped by the reflection from the trees that 
overshadow their houses, which, were it not for this circumstance, 
would be intolerably hot, from their vicinity to the canals. Most 
of the houses have looking-glasses placed on the outsides of the 
windows, on both sides, in order that they may see every thing 
which passes up and down the street. The stair-cases are narrow, 
steep, and come down almost to the door. The Bomb Quay is so 
broad, that there are distinct walks for carriages and foot passen- 
gers, lined and shaded with a double row of trees. You look over 
the river on some beautiful meadows, and a fine avenue of trees, 
which leads to the pest-house. It seems to be an elegant building, 
and the trees around it are so disposed as to appear a thick wood. 

This street is at least half a mile in length, and extends from the 
Old to the New Head, the two places where the water enters to 
fill the canals of this extensive city. I must observe, that when 
water runs through a street, it then assumes the name of a canal, of 
which kind the Heerenfleet has the pre-eminence. The houses are 
of free stone, and very lofty; the canal is spacious, and covered with 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 223 

ships. At one end stands the English church, a neat pretty build- 
ing, of which the bishop of London is ordinary. 

Upon the great bridge, in the Grand Marketplace, is the statue 
of that wonderful man Erasmus. Tt is bigger than the life, in 
brass, and clad in a doctor's gown. He was born in 146¥, and 
died at Friburg in Alsace, in the year 1536. 

Near to the market-place is the great church of St. Lawrence. 
From the tower I had as extensive a view as my eye could com- 
mand, there being neither hill nor wood to intercept my sight. I 
saw Delft and the Hague to the north; Dort, to the south; Brill, to 
the west; Amsterdam; to the east; and Utretcht lies off to the 
south-east. 

There are four churches in Rotterdam of the established religion, 
which is Calvinism, and twelve clergymen to attend them, whose 
stipends are one hundred and seventy pounds per annum each, 
which is paid out of the revenues of the city. St. Lawrence is, like 
all other Dutch churches, divested of ornament; gloomy and dark, 
by reason of the numberless achievements, whicii are hung every 
where round the walls, and which are in general of black velvet, 
with the arms blazoned, encompassed in a heavy black frame. 

I look on the exchange, which was finished in 1736, to be the 
finest building in Rotterdam. It is a quadrangle of freestone, with 
a light cloister. It is much neater, though not near so large as our 
Royal-Exchange. There is, however, no merit in the architecture. 

We last night hired a coach, which is fixed at a guilder an hour, 
to take us to Delft's-Hagen, a little village about half aft hour's dis- 
tance. The road is very pleasant, being planted on each side with 
trees. There was nothing sufficiently curious in the place itself to 
drag us from Rotterdam; but it being a public fair, we wished to 
see the humours of a Dutch wake. Children's toys and women's 
slippers seemed to make the chief figure, there being little else to 
be sold. 

We follo\ved_the sound of a fiddle into a little ale-house, and 
walked up stairs into a room full of peasants and tobacco. There 
were four girls jumping about, which they called dancing, and 
thirty or forty men sitting around with their pipes and tobacco, 
admiring the activity of the nymphs, and rolling out such clouds 
of smoke, that we were soon obliged to withdraw to avoid suffo- 
cation. From thence we went to a barn to see a Dutch tragedy and 
farce. Two of the actresses were tolerably pretty. But Dutch, 
even from the mouth of beauty, would be an antidote to love. 

Leaving Rotterdam, we went to Delft in the treckschuyte, and 
walked through the town to the Hague-gate, where we found the 
boat just ready to push off. The canal from thence to Ryswick is 
skirted with rows of elms. Instead of going on to the Hague, we 
got out at the bridge and walked down to the village, at about half 
a mile's distance. The place is old, unrepaired and unfinished: 
famous only for the peace made there, so advantageous to the Dutch, 



224 THE FLOWERS 0¥ 

by the confederate powers of Europe, with Lewis XIV. in 1G97. 
The prince now ai^d then comes here for half an hour, and amuse? 
himself with coursing hares in the court yard, which is within a 
wall about fifty yards square. A very princely recreation! 

We dined at the Strack-huis, and met. with a comfortable repast r - 
which we little expected in such a place. In the cool of the even- 
ing we walked to the Hague, at the distance of two short miles, 
under the shade of a row of elms. 

The Hague in French, la Haye, the Hedge, is only a village, 
not being walled, nor sending deputies to the States. Neverthe- 
less, it is the residence of all the foreign ambassadors, the seat of 
government, and, without dispute, the most beautiful place upon 
earth. On the south side lies Delft, on the north the House in 
Wood, Scheveling, and the sea to the west, and the great canal to 
Leyden on the east. 

The Hagiie is totally surrounded with a canal, over which are 
many bridges; and a row of lofty trees borders the water's edge. 
The streets are so* spacious, and so much adorned with trees and 
water, that you can scarce conceive yourself in a town; and there 
are so many squares and public places laid out in shady walks; and 
surrounded with such magnificent buildings, that it beggars all 
description. 

I will mention two or three of the most striking parts of the 
Hague* among which X think the Vyverburghas the pre-eminence. 
It is a kind of square, consisting of several shady walks; on one 
side, a row of magnificent houses; on the other, the Vy ver, which 
is a large basin of water faced with stone, two hundred yards in 
length, and near one hundred in breadth. In the centre of it is an 
island planted with trees. One end of the Vyverburg opens to the 
Voor-hout, which is a large plantation of trees, in the middle of 
which is the Mall, railed in on both sides. It is strewed with shells, 
as are all the walks in Holland, there being neither stone nor gra- 
vel in the whole country. The walks are consequently unpleasant, 
as the shells never bind, but crumble into dust, and feel like loose 
sand under your feet. 

The New Princess Graft, is a row of palaces, rather than of 
houses, which front the wood, from which they are divided by a 
broad pavement and a canal. Casuari-street is adjoining, in which 
is the French playhouse, a neat little theatre. We were at the 
comedy on Friday evening; the actors were tolerably good. 

I must not omit mentioning the Prince Graft, which is half a 
mile in- length, proportionably broad, and perfectly straight, with, 
a canal shaded with trees, running through the midst of it. over 
which are thrown many fine stone bridges, with iron rails on them. 

One of the greatest curiosities in the Hague, is the prince's cabi- 
net, which is open at twelve o'clock on Fridays, and accessible to 
all strangers, who previously send their names. This house was 
purchased of the countess of Albemarle, faces the Vy ver, and is 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 225 

situated at the corner of the Outer Court, where the horse-guards 
parade. 

In the first room, you sec a small, but most excellent collection 
of Chinese swords, knives, and other instruments, in gold, richly- 
inlaid with precious stones, and ear rings, bracelets, and much fe- 
male ornament and apparel. In the next apartment is a good col- 
lection of shells, among which the Concha Veneris did not escape 
my notice; the shape being entirely analagous to the name. 

In the third room is a brilliant show of precious stones, fossils, 
minerals, and petrifactions. The fourth apartment is filled with 
various kinds of serpents and small animals; and the last room is 
ornamented with a large collection of birds, extremely well pre- 
served. 

These are the best part of the cabinet, and there are many rare 
species among them; but the collection is now eclipsed by that 
which has been since collected by sir Aslvton Lever, and is now 
exhibited at London by Mr. Parkinson. 

The disposition and neatness of the whole is admirable, and well 
worthy of a stranger's attention. 

The palace of the Stadtholder is situated in the centre of the 
town, surrounded by a moat. Its external appearance is not very 
striking, being an old irregular building; but a finer collection of 
pictures, by the Dutch and Flemish masters, I have never seen; es- 
pecially in a little room called the Study, filled by the most capital 
painters. 

The Virgin, with her blessed Infant in her arms, by Raphael; 
Adam and Eve in Paradise, surrounded with birds and beasts, by 
Brughel; portraits by Rembrant, Vandyke, and Hans Holbein. A 
Dutch kitchen full of game, fish, and flesh, most admirably done, 
by Teniers. Many landscapes and fancy pieces, by Gabriel Metzu, 
Jan Steen, Potter, and Wouvermans. I look on this room to be 
complete. There is not a picture but may be dwelt on with de- 
light. 

In the other apartments, among many fine pieces, you will find 
a very large one by Potter, painted in 1647. The design is a pea- 
sant looking at his cattle. The flies on the cows seem alive, and a 
toad sitting on the grass has equal excellence. 

Abraham sacrificing Isaac, in ivory, is inimitably carved. 

There are some fruit and game pieces, by Weeninx, well donej 
and some excellent pieces on copper, by Rothenamer. 

At a church near the Hague, we saw many storks walking about 
as tame as our turkeys. They are somewhat in shape like a heron. 
Their colour is white, and their wings is tipped with black. They 
live upon the eflal of the fish market, which is near the church. I 
have seen numbers of them in the meadows, though they are es- 
teemed birds of passage, and in autumn they are not very common. 
The vulgar error is, that these birds are so fond of liberty, that 
they will live only in a republic. I am sure, in point of policy, 
2 9 



226 THE FLOWERS OP 

they cannot live in a more desirable country, as they have fish and 
frogs in abundance for their food, and the utmost security for them- 
selves, it being deemed a crime to maltreat or kill them. 

Tour through Holland. 



SECTION LXXX. 

Of Ley den. 

WE went in the treckscuyte to Leyden, with a Dutch general 
we had lived with at the table d'H< te at the Hague. The distance 
was only ten miles; but the whole canal being edged with summei 
houses and gardens belonging to the inhabitants of those towns, 
who in the summer retire to these little boxes, made the scene ap- 
pear most beautiful, and the distance nothing. 

When we arrived at the inn we were recommended to, we found 
it filled by the French ambassador and his train; and for want of 
an interpreter we wandered about the town till it was dark, and 
met with two or three disagreeable circumstaaces, which made me 
lament my ignorance of the Dutch language; but at length we 
found the Golden Ball, an English house, and" with my wants 
vanished my desire of talking Dutch. 

Leyden is esteemed, in point of size, the second city in Holland, 
but its trade is now inconsiderable, which, in the woollen manu- 
factory, was formerly very extensive. The city is surrounded 
with a rampart and a wide canal. The most elegant street is the 
Broad street, which runs from the Hague gate to the Utrecht gate. 
It is a little on the curve, which adds, I think, much to its beaut)-. 
The pavement is extremely fine, and the street rises in the centre 
like the new paved streets in London. It is very spacious, as in- 
deed most of the streets in Leyden. Among the canals the Ra- 
pinbury is the most beautiful. The houses are magnificent; the 
bridges stone, with iron rails; and there are trees on each side of 
the canal. 

It is said that there are 145 bridges, and 180 streets in the city 
of Leyden. The Old Rhine runs through this town, and loses it- 
self in the little village of Catwick, which lies in the neighbour- 
hood. 

The university is the most renowned of the five which are in 
the United Provinces,* and is the most ancient, being founded in 
1575, by the States, as a reward to the inhabitants for defending 

* The five universities rvre, A D. 

1. Leyden in Holland, . . . . 1575 • 

2. Utrecht, 1636 

3. Franeker in Friesland, .... 1584 

4. Groningen, . . . 1614 
5: Hordervvick in Guelderland, • . 1648 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 227 

themselves against the Spaniards during a six months' siege, in 
which they suffered all the horrors of war, and extremities of fa- 
mine. 

The academy abounds with many curiosities. It is there the 
professors read lectures to the students who lodge in the town, and 
are not distinguished by any academical habit. It is there that the 
learned Scaliger, Lipsius, Salmasius, and Boerhaave, gained so 
much reputation by their lectures, and brought students from all 
parts of Europe to attend them. 

The Botanic garden has always been one of the most respecta- 
ble in Europe, both on account of the famous professors who have 
presided over it, and the number of curious exotics growing in it; 
as may be seen in Boerhaave's and Van Royen's catalogues. It 
is nicely arranged, and .kept in excellent order. 

On one side of these gardens is a' very curious collection of an- 
tique marbles, given by Gerard Papenbrochius, a burgo-master of 
Amsterdam. I cannot omit mentioning the statues of Hercules, 
of Bacchus leaning on a Faun, attended by a tyger, of an Abundan- 
tia as big as the life, and of a naked Apollo, all which have espe- 
cial merit. 

Adjoining to the statues is the natural philosophy school, in 
which lectures are read. You will find in it a good collection of 
natural curiosities; some very fine petrifactions; in particular a 
piece of oak, one side of which has been polished, and vies both 
in hardness and colour with an agate. Some curious pieces of 
crystal, formed by nature to an apex, with six angles, as exact and 
as finely polished as if the production of art. A fish called the 
Medusa's Head, from a thousand little fibres darting out from its 
body in a circle like twisted rays. This, in itself, is very curious; 
but the exact representation of it in a natural agate is much more 
so. 

But I think one of the greatest curiosities is the asbestos from 
Transylvania. It is a stone with a soft down on it like velvet, of 
a dove colour. Of this is made both paper and linen; we saw 
samples of both. The very peculiar property of it is, that fire has 
no effect on it, for it still continues its form unchanged and uncon- 
sumed. 

Among the beasts was an ermine about the size and shape of a 
weasel. This little animal is so fearful of dirtying its skin, that it 
would sooner lose its liberty than its cleanliness. 

There was a kind of toad which -brings forth its young from its 
back. On observing it, we perceived infinite numbers of young 
toads adhering to the back, which appeared like the broken scales 
of a fish. 

The toad-fish from America is an extraordinary creature. It is 
for the first six months a toad, then changes by degrees into a fish. 
This had half completed its transformation, having the tail of a 
fish, with the head and foreparts of a toad. 



228 THE FLOWERS Of 

• The Penna Maria belongs to the animal species. It is the pro* 
duction of the ocean, looks like a plant, and is nothing more than 
a stem of about two inches long, with a kind of feather at the end 
of it, not unlike a quill with a part of the feather cut off. 

Among the feathered race, the most curious was the Hydracora:<. 
Inclicus, the only one in Europe; larger than a turkey, black — 
"Rostro unicorni, cornu recurvo," if I may express myself in the 
technical terms of ornithology. 

There was an immense beast called the Hippopotamus, as large 
as an elephant, its colour black, with a row of grinders in the in- 
terior part of its mouth, besides a good number in front. 

Tour through Holland. 



SECTION LXXXI. 
Of Amsterdam. 

AMSTERDAM is situated on the river Amstel, and an arm of 
the sea called the Y, at the mouth of the Zuyder sea, and is built 
in the form of a crescent. It is fortified with a fosse of great depth 
and width, with a rampart of earth faced with brick, strengthened 
with twenty-six bastions, in each of which stands a wind-mill, or- 
namented with eight magnificent gates of free stone, built either 
in a semi-circular or octagonal shape. In all the chief streets are 
canals shaded with trees, the grandest of which is the Heere- 
graft, or canal of Lords. This is the place of residence for the 
bankers and chief merchants; for here every one is in trade. The 
few nobles of Holland reside always at the Hague. Those streets 
in which there are no canals, are vilely narrow. The Ness, in 
which we live, I had the curiosity to measure, and it is only six- 
teen feet wide. The houses are lofty, and the bridges are chiefly 
of stone. 

The squares are neither spacious nor elegant. The Dam is the 
largest, in which the Stadt-house is situated; but it is irregular, 
and vilely disfigured by a weighing house. The others no more 
deserve the name of squares, than Claro-market, or Place-yard, 
Westminster. 

This populous city contained 2(3,035 houses in 1732, and is 
supposed according to the best calculation, to contain at present 
250,000 inhabitants, though it.was, at the beginning of the thir- 
teenth century, an inconsiderable fishing village on the edge of a. 
morass, which is now covered with buildings', erected upon piles 
of timber, driven into the earth, at immense labour and expence. 
For the foundation only of one tower, 6000 trees were rammed 
into the ground. Notwithstanding these precautions, the magis- 
trates are so apprehensive of the foundations, that very few coaches 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 229 

are licensed. The carriages in general are fixed on sledges, drawn 
by one horse, the driver attending on foot. 

There are fifteen churches of the established, that is, the Calvin- 
istic religion, which are served by thirty ministers, equal in au- 
thority and revenue. They are allowed two hundred and forty 
pounds per annum each, which is paid by the city. 

The most stupendous undertaking in this city is the Stadt-house, 
which you enter by seven small gates, parallel to each other, in- 
stead of one magnificent portal, equal to a front, which extends 
itself 282 feet, whose height is 1 16, and the breadth 232 feet. The 
building is of stone, with pillars of the Corinthian order. It is 
erected on 13,659 piles of timber, and was finished in 1655. 
On the top is a statue of Atlas in brass, bearing on his shoulders 
a copper globe, said to be larger than that of St. Peter's at Rome; 
and on the centre is a cupola, from whence is an extensive view 
of the city and its environs. The piles cost 100,0001. The whole 
expence was computed at two millions. Versailles, cost only 
S00,000l.; the Escurial, one million; and St. Paul's, one million 
five hundred thousand pounds. It is upon record, that St. Peter's 
at Rome, with all that is contained in it, has cost near thirteen mil- 
lions sterling. 

The cornices of the rooms are finely carved, the floors laid with 
marble, and the sides of the apartments lined either with marble 
or valuable paintings. Over the doors and chimney-pieces are 
several historical pieces in basso relievo, inimitably executed in 
Italian marble; and there are some deceptions in a kind of grey 
painting, to imitate basso relievo, (especially of some children) 
by De-Wit, so finely touched, that the most critical eye at half 
the distance of the room would be deceived. 

A large piece, by Vanderhelst, is deservedly esteemed. It is a 
feast given to the Spanish ambassador by the burgo-masters of Am- 
sterdam, on the making peace between the two countries in 164S. 
But the best piece is by Vandyke, which represents an entertains 
ment, where you see the portraits of all the considerable persons 
of the city. An old grey-haired man is so much admired in this) 
wonderful picture, that seven thousand guilders were offered to 
cut out the head. 

The Stadt-house is admirably contrived for public utility. Here 
is the bank, supposed to be the richest in Europe; here are the courts 
of justice, the prisons for criminals and debtors, the chambers of 
the senate, the treasury, the magazine of arms, and in short, all 
the public offices, with eight large cisterns of water on the top, 
with pipes to every room to extinguish fires. The citizens' hall 
is the grandest, being one hundred and twenty feet by fifty-seven, 
and ninety feet high: it is paved with marble, in which are stained 
the terrestrial and celestial globes. The sides, the roof, and the 
pillars are all of marble; but there always is something wanting; — • 



230 THE FLOWERS OF 

there is not light enough to admire with accuracy the wonderful 
magnificence of this apartment. 

From the Stadt-house you cross the Dam to .the Exchange, which 
is not to he compared with that of Rotterdam in heauty, nor to 
our Royal Exchange in size. The huilding is of brick, and, at 
full change, if appearances may be relied on, was crowded with 
the most blackguard fellows on the face of the earth. In the 
afternoon I paid a second visit to the Exchange, to see the city 
militia perform their exercise; to which every man is subject, un- 
less he makes a pecuniary compensation. Those, therefore, who 
from their poverty cannot, or from their avarice will not, pay 
the fine, are obliged to serve. Here penury and parsimony were 
collected together in such various habits (for they have no regular 
uniform) as to make the most ludicrous group imagination can sug- 
gest. A giant and a dwarf, a Falstaffand a Slender, a bob wig 
and shock head of hair, in coats of all the colours of the rainbow, 
joined most heterogeneously together to form a rank, in which 
every man followed his own invention, in as many different atti- 
tudes and manoeuvres as there were men to make them. 

In the evening we went to the theatre, which, like all play- 
houses, our own excej^ted, is dark, long, and small. The pit is 
excellent, having seats with low backs, and marked with numbers, 
to distinguish the seat of each person, by which, both crowding 
and disputes are prevented. This is the only house I ever saw 
abroad, in which there are seats in the pit, or parterre, as it is 
called. It is under the controul and direction of the city. The 
magistrates receive the money, defray the charges, and pay the 
actois. The residue is applied to the maintenance of the poor, 
and to the support of the different hospitals. 

Every rope-dancer, puppet-player, as well as all others who 
pretend to entertain the public, are obliged to contribute one-third 
of their profits towards the maintenance of the poor. 

On Friday we looked into the Rasp-house, which is" a prison for 
criminals, as well as for children who are profligate or disobedient. 
The former arc confined in a small room, chained to a block, and 
spend their whole time in sawing or rasping Brazil wood, or in 
other work-equally laborious. I was shocked at the sight of so 
many of my species, naked to the waist, worn out with labour, 
pale with confinement, and emaciated by want. Yet how much 
wiser this method than the English law, which for thirteen pence 
deprives a man of his life, and the king of a subject, whom the 
Dutch show us may be made useful to the public. 

From thence we went to the Spin-house, for the correction, but 
not, I think, for the amendment of loose women, as every one is 
permitted to see and converse with them through the rails, which 
can only harden them in impudence. We walked into the New 
Church to see a burial. In this nation of industry, time is too pre- 
cious to be complimented away on the dead, who can make them 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 231 

no return; therefore the ceremony of prayers is laid aside as super- 
fluous. The coffin is instantly put into the grave, which is imme- 
diately filled up. The relations bow, and return to their avocations. 
The organ in this church is inferior only to the organ at Harlem. 
The partition which divides the chancel from the nave, is of Corin- 
thian brass. The sounding-board over the pulpit is justly admired 
for the inimitable carving with which it is ornamented. From 
thence we proceeded to the Admiralty and Dock-yard, which are 
situated at the extremity of the quay. The admiralty forms three 
sides of a square, in the middle of which is the yard for building 
of the men of war; the fourth side is open to the water. Here is 
not an appearance to be feared by the English, though much to 
be admired for the excellent order in which the arms and stores 
are disposed. 

Among the number of hospitals in this city, the Gast-house for 
the sick is the most worthy a stranger's visiting. It is an elegant 
stone quadrangle, at the end of which are some neat little shops 
for toys, lace, &c. The revenue of this hospital is computed at 
eight thousand pounds sterling a year, which is a large sum; but 
the general hospital for men at Madrid, contains one thousand five 
hundred iron beds, and its revenue amounts to forty thousand 
doubloons; about thirty thousand pounds sterling. 

There is an hospital where all poor travellers without distinc- 
tion are lodged and entertained for three nights, and no longer. 

It is computed that twenty thousand souls are maintained in the 
different hospitals, which are either endowed or supported out of 
the public revenue, assisted by the contributions of the charitable; 
for which purpose, men belonging to the hospitals go twice a week 
to ever}'" house begging for alms. 

On Saturday morning we went to the Portuguese synagogue; 
which is a large spacious building filled with a numerous congre- 
gation. The women sit together in a gallery, with lattices before 
them. The. men sit below on benches with tawlises* on, which 
they throw over their shoulders; and I declare, at first sight, I 
took the whole assembly for old clothes men, with their bags over 
their arms. 

There are some regulations in the police of Amsterdam, which 
would be well worthy of imitation in London. You never meet 
a watchman alone; two always walk together, by which means 
they add strength as well as give courage to each other. Many a 
house is broke open in London, and many a sober citizen is knock- 
ed down in the presence of a watchman, who either from fear or 
knavery suffers the villains to escape. 

There is another admirable custom to prevent the spreading of 
fire, by giving almost an immediate alarm. On the tops of four 

* The Taulis is a kind of veil, generally thrown over the shoulders, sometimes 
over the face. 



232 t6e flowers of 

churches, situated at four different quarters of the citj r , watchmen 
are fixed during the night, who are obliged to sound a trumpet- 
every half hour, as a signal of their being awake and on their duty. 
On the breaking out of a fire they ring the alarm bell, which calls 
their brethren to the spot in a moment. Of what service would a 
plan something similar to this be in our metropolis! 

There are few general conveniences which carry not a mischief 
along with them. Canals, for instance, are great ornaments to 
the streets, and of infinite use to the inhabitants; but the mischief 
is, that many an honest man loses his life in Amsterdam, who in 
London, would only lose his money; for the villains first rob him, 
and then push him into the canal, to prevent his telling tales; thus 
charitably easing him of his money, lest the weight of it should 
sink him. 

I must not omit mentioning the neatness of the people; but in 
this they have no merit; for the neatness of their houses and clean- 
liness of their towns proceed from necessity. Such is the mois- 
ture of the air, that were it not for these customs, pestilential 
diseases would be the consequence, which, careful as they are, 
now often happen. This perpetual dampness in the atmosphere, 
rusts metals and moulds wood, which obliges the inhabitants, not 
from a principle of neatness, but of economy, by scouring the one, 
and painting the other, to seek a prevention or cure. Hence 
arises the neatness, which by people who judge only by appear- 
ances is called natural; but indeed most national customs -are 
the effects of unobserved causes and necessities. In this country 
the mind is perpetually struek with wonder and admiration. If 
mathematicians are to be credited, on the measure of the two ele- 
ments, they found the sea even in the calm, above half a foot 
higher than the land. The waves are checked by an infinity of 
sand-hills, which lie along the coast. Add to this natural defence, 
a dyke of twenty feet high, twentj'-five feet broad at bottom, and 
about ten at top, running parallel to the high-water mark. This 
is made of clay, strengthened towards the land with planks and 
stone, towards the water with rushes, sea-weeds, and flags staked 
down, which give way to the force of the waves, and resume 
their place again, when they retire. Goldsmith has drawn a very 
elegant picture of this country in his admirable poem of the Tra- 
veller. 

" While the pent ocean rising 1 o'er the pile, 
" Sees an amphibious world beneath him smile; 
" The slow canal, the yellow blossom'd vale, 
" The willow tufted bank, the gliding sail, 
" The crowded mart, the cultivated plain, 
" A new creation rescued from his reigu," 

It is wonderful that in a country without a stone or pebble, there 
should be stone edifices the most magnificent. Without forest, or 
an oak tree (two little woods excepted,) the Dutch navy is the se- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 233 

cond in the world. Without arable land, they supply half Europe 
with corn; and with a track of country scarce larger than an Eng- 
lish county, they can raise men and money to make themselves of 
importance in the eyes of the first power in Christendom. 

Facts so extraordinary require explanation. Let it then be re- 
membered, that this state was founded on liberty and religion; 
was reared by industry and ceconomy, and lias flourished by its 
situation and commerce. The bigoted maxims of Philip II. the 
introduction of the inquisition, and the erecting of fourteen new 
bishopricks in the Low Countries, the unrelenting rigour of the 
Cardinal Granville, and the succeeding cruelty of the Duke of 
Alva, together with the Council of Twelve, called the Council 
of Blood, and the execution of Counts Egmontand Horn, were 
the causes which drove the people to shake off the yoke, and gave 
rise to the union of Utrecht. Persevering valour, joined to the 
political assistance of other powers, -has been the means of their 
preserving their independence, while the decline of the Venetian 
navy has made them the common carriers of Europe; and the 
wars in Flanders and situation of Holland, have conspired to ren- 
der Amsterdam the seat of universal commerce. 

Till the beginning of the sixteenth century, Venice by its ship- 
ping, and Florence by its manufactures, possessed the whole trade 
of Europe, Persia, and the Indies; but the discovery of a passage 
to the East, by the Cape of Good-Hope, and the settlements of 
the Portuguese in India, proved fatal to the republic of Venice. 
Lisbon then became the staple of the trade to the East-Indies, and 
theEasterlings who inhabited the Hans Towns, were the great mer- 
chants of the North. — They brought commerce first to Bruges, 
and from thence to Antwerp, which the revolt of the Netherlands 
drew afterwards to Holland. The Dutch likewise, by their treaties 
with the natives, in process of time, drew the whole trade of India 
from Lisbon. 

Their country is most admirably situated for the- trade of the 
Baltic, which includes Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Russia, Po- 
land, and the North coast of Germany, wiiilethey send merchan- 
dize into the interior parts of the empire and the Austrian Nether- 
lands, by the Rhine, Maese, and Scheld. It must likewise be 
considered, that each town values itself upon some particular 
branch of trade, by which it is improved to the utmost; as for in- 
stance, Delft for the Dutch porcelain; Sardam for the ship-building, 
Rotterdam for the Scotch and English trade; Amsterdam for that 
of the Streights, Spain and the East Indies, and the whole prov- 
ince of the herring fishery, which supplies the southern parts of 
Europe. Thus the greatness of this country, has arisen from a 
wonderful concurrence of circumstances; from a long course of 
time; from the confluence of strangers, driven either by persecu- 
tion, or invited by the credit of their government; from the cheap- 
ness of carriage by the convenience of the canals; from the low 
39 



234 THE FLOWERS OJ' 

interest of money and clearness of land, which consequently turtle 
specie into trade; from particular traffic carried on at particular 
places; from their intense application to their navy; from the vast 
nurseries for their sailors, and from their amazing acquisitions in 
the East-Indies. All these circumstances have conspired to make 
this little republic the envy and admiration of the world. 

Tour through Holland. 



SECTION LXXXH. 

Of Antwerp and Brussels. 

THE approach to the city of Antwerp is noble, by a straight 
paved road, bordered with oaks. It is the capital of the province 
whose name it bears, belonging to the Austrian Netherlands, and 
under the dominion of the emperor. It is situated on the eastern 
shore of the Scheld, a noble river, twenty feet deep at low water; 
so that ships of great burden may unload upon the quays, or enter 
the town by eight canals, which communicate with the river, some 
of which are large enough to contain an hundred ships at the 
same time. 

The city is much decayed from its ancient grandeur, though it 
still remains a beautiful place. It is built in the form of a cres- 
cent, about seven miles in circumference, surrounded with a wall 
and bastions faced with stone. The top of the wall is an hundred 
feet broad, with a double row of trees, between which is a most 
agreeable walk. The streets are well paved, very spacious, and 
uniform. The houses in general, are seven or eight stories high, 
but old, and in that miserable style of building which disgiaces 
the towns in Holland. At the distance of a quarter of a mile is 
the citadel, built by the Duke of Alva, to keep the city in subjec- 
tion. It stands on the banks of the Scheld, and commands at once 
the river, the city, and the adjacent country. It is built in a pen- 
tagonal form, with five bastions, which defend each other, sur- 
rounded with double ditches. 

To this citadel is only one entrance, which is over a draw- 
bridge. It is about a mile in circumference, and well supplied 
with arms, ammunition, and warlike stores, with barracks for 
three thousand men. This fortress has been of such repute for 
strength and regularity, that it has been a model for subsequent 
engineers; notwithstanding the French in 174C, took it in seven 
days. 

The trade of Antwerp, is now confined to very narrow limits, 
though, so late as the middle of the sixteenth century, there were 
two hundred thousand inhabitants, two thousand five hundred 
ships lying often in the river at a time; and it was far from unfre- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 235 

iiuent for five hundred vessels to come in or go out of the harbour 
in a day. 

The trade of Antwerp in the year 1550, if the annals of their 
city can be relied on, amounted to one hundred and thirty-three 
millions of gold, without including the bank. 

As an instance of the amazing opulence of the merchants, there 
is a story upon the record of John Daens, a merchant, who lent a 
million of gold to Charles V. to carrjr on his wars in Hungary. 
The emperor on his return dined with the merchant, who gave 
him a most sumptuous entertainment, and at the close of it, burnt 
the contract by which the emperor was bound to pay him a million 
of gold, in a fire of cinnamon, which was the only fire during the 
repast. 

The rise of their trade was as rapid as the decline, and both 
proceeded from the same causes. At the beginning of the six- 
teenth century, Bruges was the mart of Europe; but the war at 
that time breaking out in Flanders, the merchants withdrew from 
Bruges, and were invited to Antwerp, as a place of greater safety, 
whose situation was happily calculated for commerce. But this 
did not last long, for the civil wars breaking out in the Low Coun- 
tries, and Antwerp having twice been sacked, drove trade to seek 
a more peaceful refuge in Amsterdam. 

The established religion is the Catholic; the language, Low 
Dutch; but a bastard kind of French is spoken by most of the 
inhabitants. 

We have been so fortunate as to see a grand procession, in hon- 
our of St. Rocque. The whole Mer, the most magnificent street 
in Antwerp, was illuminated with torches, and many hundred peo- 
ple in procession with flambeaux, followed by the Virgin Mary, 
precious relics, the host and an infinity of such kind of trumpery, 
amidst the choirs of voices, serpents,* and trumpets. 

The whole road from Antwerp to Brussels is delightful. Brus- 
sels is the capital of Brabant, and of all the Austrian Netherlands. 
It is the residence of tbe governor-general of the Low Countries. 
It is twenty-four miles south of Antwerp, and thirty southeast ot 
Ghent, situated on the Senne, an inconsiderable river. The scite 
of this city resembles Guilford, being built on the brow of a hill. 
Its figure is oval, about four miles in circumference, surrounded 
with a wall, and tolerably fortified. The Low Town has the 
benefit of canals, which admit boats of considerable burden. 

The Upper Town is magnificent, and has lately been much im- 
proved by new buildings, and by inclosing a piece of waste ground, 
planting it, and laying it out in walks. 

The arsenal stands on the top of the street called Montague la 
a Cour. There is some old armour in it of neither curiosity nor 

* Le Serpent is a wind instrument, which is used in all Roman Catholic 
churches, where the voices are accompanied with music. 



236 THE FLOWERS OF 

use; except an iron shield, which no sword can pierce, and a steel 
shield so. finely engraved, that the figures seemed reflected from 
the polish, not to be etched in the steel. The nicest touch cannot 
perceive the least scratch; notwithstanding which the figures ap- 
pear to be strongly marked, when the shield is held obliquely. 

Just below the arsenal is the palace of the governor of the Aus- 
trian Netherlands. The present palace is not more than half finish- 
ed. There was upon this spot, an old one, which was bought of the 
Prince of Orange, at the time the grand palace was burnt, in which 
was a most capital collection of pictures, especially of Rubens, 
which with many valuable curiosities, perished' in the flames. 

The staircase of the present palace is very magnificent. The 
steps are of marble, and the balustrade of iron, gilt, and adorned 
with compartments of birds and beasts, nicely executed in polished 
steel by Trieste. The ceiling is painted in fresco. 

The apartment of the princess, is hung with the Brussels tap- 
estry, which is brought to great perfection. The floors are all 
inlaid with mahogany and box. The princess' cabinet is much 
admired, being covered throughout with the finest japan. The 
late prince was a great mechanic, and had a cabinet of curiosities 
trifling enough, among which were two boxes, containing all the 
common trades in miniature. 

Tour through Holland. 



SECTION LXXX1II. 

Of Barcelona in Spain. 

THIS city is a sweet spot. The air equals in puril} T . and much 
excels in mildness the boasted climate of Montpelier. Except in 
the dog-days, you may have green peas all the year round. The 
situation is beautiful, the appearance both from land and sea, re- 
markably picturesque. A great extent of fruitful plains, bounded 
by an amphitheatre of hills, backs it on the west side; the moun- 
tain of Montjuich, defends it on the south from the unwholesome 
winds that blow over the marshes at the mouth of the Lobregate; 
to the northward, the coast projecting into the sea, forms a noble 
bay; it has the Mediterranean to close the prospect to the east. 
The environs are in a state of high cultivation, studded with vil- 
lages, country-houses, and gardens. 

The form of Barcelona is almost circular, the Roman town be- 
ing on the highest ground in the centre of the new one. The 
ancient walls are still visible in several places; but the sea has 
retired many hundred yards from the port gates. One of the 
principal Gothic churches, and a whole quarter of the city, stand 
upon the sands that were once the bottom of the harbour. The 
immense loads of sand hurried down into the sea by the rivers, 



CELEBRATED TKAVELLERS. 237 

and thrown back by the wind and current in this haven, will, in 
all probability, choak it quite up, unless greater diligence be used 
in preventing the gathering of the shoals. A southerly wind 
brings in the sand, and already a deep-loaded vessel finds it danger- 
ous to pass over the bar. Some years ago, a company of Dutch 
and English adventurers, offered to bring the river into the port 
by means of a canal, if government would allow them a free iife- 
portation for ten years. This project might have cleared away the 
sand-bank, but might have also given a fatal check to the infant 
manufactures of the country; for which reason the proposal was 
rejected. The port is handsome: the mole is all of hewn stone, 
a masterpiece of solidity and convenience. Above, is a platform 
for carriages; below, vast magazines, with a broad key reaching 
from the city gates to the light-house. • This was done by the or- 
ders of the late Marquis de LaMina, captain-general of the prin- 
cipality, where his memory is held in greater veneration than at 
the court of Madrid. He governed Catalonia many years, more 
like an independent sovereign, than like a subject invested with a 
delegated authority. Great are the obligations Earcelona has to 
him. He cleansed and beautified its streets, built useful edifices, 
and forwarded its trade and manufactures, without much extraor- 
dinary expence to the province; for he had more resources, and 
made money go farther than most other governors can do, or in- 
deed wish to do. 

The citadel has six strong bastions, calculated to overawe the 
inhabitants, at least as much as to defend them from a foreign 
enemy. The lowness of its situation renders it damp, unwhole- 
some, and swarming with musquitos. The major of this fortress, 
owes his promotion to a singular circumstance. When the present 
king arrived at Madrid in 1759, a magnificent bull-feast was given 
in honour of that event. As it is necessary, upon such occasions, 
that those who fight on horseback should be gentlemen born, the 
managers of the exhibition were greatly at a loss; till this man, 
who was a poor starving officer, presented himself, though utterlv 
ignorant both of bull-fighting and horsemanship. By dint of 
resolution, and the particular favour of fortune, he kept his seat, 
and performed his part so much to the public satisfaction, that he 
was rewarded with a pension and a majority. 

The streets of Barcelona are narrow but well paved. A covered 
drain in the middle of each street carries off the filth and rain 
water. At night they are tolerably well lighted up, but Jong be* 
fore day-break every lamp is out. The houses are lofty and plain. 
To each kind of trade a particular district is allotted. 

Catalonia, of which Barcelona is the capital, is almost through- 
out extremely mountainous. The nature of the country appears 
to have great influence on that of the inhabitants, who are a hardy, 
active, and industrious race, of a middle size, brown complexion, 
and strong features; their limbs well knit together, and by educa- 



235 . THE FLOWEHS OF 

lion and practice well inured to the greatest fatigues. There are 
few lame or distorted persons, or beggars, to be met with among 
them. Their mocos or mule boys, arc stout walkers. Some of 
them have been known to go from Barcelona to Madrid and back 
again, in nine days, which by the high road, is six hundred miles. 

The loss of all the immunities, the ignominious prohibition of 
every weapon, even a knife, and an enormous load of taxes, have 
not been able to stifle their independent spirit, which breaks out 
upon the least stretch of arbitrary power. Within these few years, 
many of their ancient privileges have been gradually restored; and 
this is at present one of the most flourishing provinces of Spain. 
Their taxation is still very high. All trade is assessed according 
to the business you are supposed to transact in the course of a year, 
without regard to your loss or gain. 

Among other restrictions, the use of flouched hats, white shoes, 
and large brown cloaks is forbidden. Till of late, they durst not 
carry any kind of a knife; but in each public house, there was one 
chained to the table for the use of all comers. The good order 
maintained by the police, and the vigilance of the thief-takers, 
supply the place of defensive weapons, robberies and murders 
being seldom heard of. You may walk the streets of Barcelona at 
all hours unarmed, without the least apprehension, provided you 
have light; without it 3> , ou are liable to be carried to prison by the 
patrol. 

. The Catalonians cannot brook the thought of being menial serv- 
ants in their own countiy, but will rather trudge it all over with a 
pedlar's pack on their shoulders, or run about upon errands, than 
be the head domestic in a Catalonian family. Far from home they 
make excellent servants, and most of the principal houses of Mad- 
rid have Catalonians at the head of their affairs. 

They are the general muleteers and calessieros of Spain. You 
meet with them in every part of the kingdom. Their honesty, 
steadiness, and sobriety, entitle them to the confidence of travel- 
lers, and their thirst after lucre, makes them bear with any hard- 
ships. With good words you will always find them docile, but 
they cannot bear hard usage or opprobrious language. 

Those that remain at home for the labours of the field, are ex- 
ceedingly industrious. Their corn-harvest is in "May or early in 
June; but, as these crops are liable to frequent burstings and mil- 
dews, they have turned their attention more to the vine, which 
they plant even to the summits of their most rugged mountains. In 
many places they carry up earth to fix the young set in; and in 
others have been known to let one another down from the brow of 
the rocks by ropes, rather than suffer a good patch of soil to re- 
main useless. Their vintages are commonly very plentiful. This 
autumn, there was such a superabundance of grapes in the valley 
of Talarn, in the neighbourhood of Pallas, that whole vineyards 
were left untouched for want of vessels to make or hold the wine 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS 239 

in. Notice was pasted upon the church doors, that any one was 
at liberty to take away any quantity he pleased, on paying a smali 
acknowledgement to the proprietors. The best red wine of Cata- 
lonia, is made at Mataro, north of Barcelona, and the best white 
at Sitges, between that city and Tarragona. 

The scarcity of corn is sometimes very great, the principality 
not producing above five months' provisions. Without the im- 
portation from America, Sicily, and the north of Europe, it Would 
run the risk of being famished. From four hundred thousand to six 
hundred thousand quarters of wheat are annually imported. Canada 
alone, sent this year about eighty thousand quarters. There are 
public ovens, where the bakers are bound by contract, to bake 
every day into bread, one thousand bushels of flour, or more, at 
a stated price, and in case the other bakers should refuse to work, 
they are under the obligation of furnishing the city with bread. 

The number of the inhabitants of Barcelona, is made to amount 
to one hundred and fifty thousand souls, and those of Barcelonetta, 
to ten thousand. But although trade and population have in- 
creased surprisingly in the course of a few years, I doubt there is 
some exaggeration in this reckoning. 

The great export-commerce, consists in wine, brandy, salt, and 
oil, which are mostly taken in by foreign ships at the little ports 
and roads along the coast, and not brought to be shipped off at the 
capital. 

There are mines of lead, iron, and coal, in the mountains, but 
they are ill wrought, and turn to poor account. The manufac- 
tures are of more importance. Barcelona supplies Spain with 
most of the clothing and arms for the troops. This branch of 
business is carried on with much intelligence. They can equip 
a battalion of six hundred men' completely in a week. 

A great trade is driven on in silk handkerchiefs and stockings: 
in woollens of various qualities; in silk and thread lace; and in 
fire-arms. The gun-barrels of Barcelona are much esteemed, and 
cost from four to twenty guineas; but about five is the real value; 
all above is paid for fancy and ornament. They are made out of 
the old shoes of mules. Several manufactories of printed linens 
are established here, but have not yet arrived at any great elegance 
of design or liveliness of colour. 

The imports are, besides corn, about eighty thousand hundred 
weight of Newfoundland cod, which pays three persettas per hun- 
dred weight duty, and sells upon an average at a guinea; beans 
from Holland for the poor people, and an inferior sort from Africa 
for the mules; English bale goods, and many foreign articles of 
necessity or luxury. House rent and living are dear; provisions 
but indiffeient. The fish is shabby and insipid; the meat poor; 
but the vegetables are excellent, especially broccoli and cauliflower. 
I believe their meat and fish arcnuieh better in summer than at 
this season of the vear. 



210 xflE FLOWERS OP 

The devotion of the Catalonians, seems to be pretty much upon 
a par with that of their neighbours in the southern provinces of 
France, and, I am told, much less ardent than we shall find it as 
we advance into Spain; but they still abound with strange practices 
of religion and local worship. One very odd idea of theirs is, 
that on the first of November, the eve of All-Souls, they run 
about from house to house, to eat chesnuts, believing, that for every 
-chesnut they swallow, with proper faith and unction, they shall 
deliver a soul out of purgatory. 

The influx of foreigners, increase of commerce, and protection 
granted to the liberal arts, begin to' open the understanding of 
this people, who have made great strides of late towards sense and 
philosophy. 

There are now but one or two churches at most in each city, that 
are allowed the privilege of protecting offenders; and murderers are 
excluded from the benefit of the sanctuary. The proceedings of 
the inquisition have grown very mild. If any person leads a 
scandalous life, or allows his tongue unwarrantable liberties, he is 
summoned by the holy office and privately admonished; in case 
of non-amendment, he is committed to prison.' Once a year you 
must answer to that tribunal for the orthodoxy of your family, 
even of every servant, or they must quit the country, But the 
foreign Protestant houses are passed over unnoticed. Avoid talk- 
ing on religion, and with a little discretion, you may live here in 
what manner you please. 

Every Jew that lands in Spain, must declare himself to be such 
at the inquisition; which immediately appoints a familiar to attend 
him all the time he stays on shore, to whom he pays a pistole a 
day: were he to neglect giving this information, he would be liable 
to be seized. Yet I have been assured by persons of undoubted 
credit, that a Jew may travel incognito from Perpignan to Lisbon, 
and sleep every night at the house of a Jew, being recommended 
from one to another; and that )*ou may take it for granted, that 
wherever you see a house remarkably decked out with images, 
relics, and lamps, and the owner noted for being the most enthu- 
siastic devotee of the parish, there is ten to one, but the family are 
Israelites at heart. Swinburne. 



SECTION LXXXIV. 

Of the flocks on the Pyrenean mountains. 

ON the J 0th. of July, 17S7, we left Bagnere de Luchon, and 
crossed the mountains to Vielle, the town on the Spanish side. 
The Pyrenees are so great an object of examination, in whatever 
lio;ht they are considered, but especially in that of agriculture, 
that it would be adding a great deal too much to the length of this 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 241 

paper to speak of here: I shall on another occasion be particular 
in describing the husbandry practised in them, and at present stop 
no longer than to mention the pasturage of Catalonian sheep in 
them. By a little detour out of our direct road, and by passing 
Hospital, which is the name of a solitary wretched inn, we 
gained the heights, but free from snow, which the Spaniards hire 
of the French for the pasturage of their flocks. I must observe, 
that a considerable part of the mountains, belong in property to 
the communities of the respective parishes, and are disposed of 
by what we should call the vestry. They hire a very considerable 
range of many miles. The French mountains, on which they 
pasture, are four hours distant from Bagnere de Luchon, and be- 
long to that town. Those hours are more than twenty English 
miles, and are the most distant part of the parish. To arrive at 
them we followed the river Pique, which upon the maps, is some- 
times called the Neste. The whole way it runs in a torrent, and 
falls in cascades of many stories, formed either by large pieces of 
rock, or by trees carried down and stopped by stones. The cur- 
rent in process of ages, has worn itself deep glens to pass through, 
at the bottom of which the tumbling of the water is heard, but 
can be seen only at breaks in the wood, which hang over and darken 
the scene. The road, as it is called, passes generally by the river, 
but hangs, if I may use the expression, like a shelf on the moun- 
tain side, and is truly dreadful to the inhabitants of plains from 
being broken by gullies, and sloping on the edges of precipices. 
It is, however, passable by mules, and by the horses of the moun- 
tains. The vale grows so narrow at last, that it is not above 
a hundred yards wide in some places. The general scene at last 
has little wood. 

The mountains on the south side finish in a pyramidical rock of 
micaceous schistus, which is constantly tumbling into the plain, 
from the attacks of the frost, and the melting of the snows, the 
slope of the river being spread with fragments. We met here 
with pieces of lead ore and manganese. 

On the northern ridge, bearing to the west, are the pastures of 
the Spanish flocks. This ridge is not, however, the whole. There 
are two other mountains, quite in a different situation, and the 
sheep travel from one to another, as the pasture is short or plenti- 
ful. I examined the soil of these mountain pastures, and found it 
in general stony; what in the west of England would be called a 
stone brash, with some mixture of loam, and in a few places a 
little peaty. The plants are many of them untouched by the 
sheep. Many ferns, narcissus, violets, and the narrow-leaved 
plaintain, were eaten, as may be supposed, close. I looked for 
trefoils, but found scarcely any. It was apparent, that soil and 
peculiarity of herbage had little to do in rendering these heights 
proper for sheep. In the northern parts of Europe, the tops of 
mountains half the height of these, (for we were above snow in 
31 



242 THE FLOWERS OF 

July) are bogs. All are so which I have seen in our islands: or 
at least, the proportion of dry land is very trifling to that which 
is extremely wet. Here they are in general very dry. Now a 
great range of dry land, let the plants be what they may, will in 
every country suit sheep. The flock is brought every night to 
one spot, which is situated at the end of the valley on the river I 
have mentioned, and near the port or passage of Picada. It is a 
level spot sheltered from all winds. The soil is eight or nine 
inches deep of old dung, not at;all inclosed; and from the freedom 
from wood all round it, seems to be chosen partly for safety against 
wolves and bears. Near it is a very large stone, or rather rock, 
fallen from the mountain. This the shepherds have taken for 
shelter, and built a hut against it. Their beds are sheep skins, 
and their doors so small that they crawl in. I saw no place for 
fire, but they have it, since they dress here the flesh of their 
sheep, and in the' night sometimes keep off the bears, by whirling 
fire-brands. Four of them belonging to the flock mentioned above, 
lie here. We viewed their flock very carefully, and by means of 
our guide and interpreter, made some enquiries of the shepherds, 
which they answered readily, and very civilly. A Spaniard at 
Venasque, a city in the Pyrenees, gives six hundred livres French 
(the livre is ten pence halfpenny English) a year for the pastur- 
age of this flock of two thousand sheep. In the winter he sends 
them into the lower parts of Catalonia, a journey of twelve or 
thirteen days, and when the snow is melted enough in the spring, 
they are conducted back again. They are the whole year kept in 
motion, and moving from spot to spot, which is owing fo (lie great 
range they every where have of pasture. They are always in the 
open air, never housed or under cover, and never taste of any 
food but what they can find on the hills. 

Four shepherds, and from four to six large Spanish dogs, have 
the care of this flock. The latter are in France called of the Py- 
renees breed. They are black and white, of the size of a large- 
wolf, a large head and neck, armed with collars stuck with iron 
spikes. No wolf can stand agaiast them; but bears are more po- 
tent adversaries. If a bear can reach a tree he is safe. He rises 
on his hind legs, with his back to the tree, and sets the dogs at de- 
fiance. In the night the shepherds rely entirely on their dogs, but 
, on hearing them bark, are ready with fire-arms, as the dogs rarely 
bark, if a bear is not at hand. I was surprised to find that they 
are only fed with bread and milk. The head shepherd is paid one 
hundred and twenty livres a year wages, and bread; the others, 
eighty livres and bread. But they are allowed to keep goats, of 
which they have many, which they milk every day. Their food 
is milk and bread, except the flesh of such sheep or lambs, as ac- 
cidents give them. The head shepherd keeps on the mountain top, 
on an elevated spot, from whence he can the better see around, 
while the flock traverses the declivities. In doing this, the sheep 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 243 

are exposed to great clanger in places that are stony; for some of 
them, especially the goats, by walking among the rocks, move 
the stones, which rolling down the hills acquire an accelerated 
force enough to knock a man down; and sheep are often killed by 
them. Yet we saw how alert they were to avoid such stones, and 
cautiously on their guard against them. We examined the sheep 
attentively. They are in general polled, but some have horns; 
which in the rams turns backward behind the ears, and project 
half a circle forwards; the ewes' horns turns also behind the ears, 
but do not project: the legs white or reddish; speckled faces, some 
white, some reddish: they would weigh, fat, I reckon, on an aver- 
age, from fifteen to eighteen pounds a quarter. There are a few 
black sheep among them; and some with a very little tuft of wool 
on their foreheads. On the whole, they resemble those on the 
South Downs. Their legs are as short as those of that breed; a 
point which merits observation, as they travel so much and so 

well. 

Having satisfied ourselves with our examination of this flock, 
we returned to the direct road for Vielle, which also leads to one 
of the most woody regions of the Pyrenees, and at the same time, 
the most romantic. The road is so bad that no horse but those of 
the mountains could pass it; but our mules trod securely amidst 
rolling stones on the edges of precipices of a tremendous depth; 
but sure-footed as they are, they are not free from stumbling; and 
when they happen to trip a little in those situations, they electrify 
their riders in a manner not altogether so pleasant as Mr. Walker. 
These mountains are chiefly rocks of micaceous schistus, but there 
are large detached fragments of granite. 

We pass the frontier line which divides France and Spain; and 
rising on the mountains, we see the Spanish valley of Aran, with 
the river Garonne winding through it in a beautiful manner. The 
town of Bososte is at the foot of the mountains, where is the Span- 
ish custom-house. Mules imported into Spain pay here sixteen 
livres. A four year old horse the same. A six year old one thir- 
teen ditto. An ox five; and a sheep one and a half sol. This 
vale of Aran, is richly cultivated, and without any fallows. Noth- 
ing scarcely can be finer than the view of the valley from heights 
so great as to render the most common objects interesting. The 
road leads under trees, whose arching boughs present at every ten 
paces new landscapes. The woods here are thick, and present fine 
masses of shade; the rocks large, and every outline bold: and the 
verdant vale that is spread far below at our feet, has all the features 
of beauty, in contrast with the sublimity of the surrounding 
mountains. 

We descend into this vale, and bait at our first Spanish inn. 
No hay, no corn, no meat, no windows; but cheap eggs and bread, 
and some trout for fifteen sous. (Seven pence halfpenny English. 



244 THE FLOWERS OF 

We followed from hence the Garonne, which is already a hue 
river, but very rapid. On it they float many trees to their saw- 
mills, to cut into boards. We saw many at work. The vale is 
narrow, but the hills to the left are cultivated high up. There are 
no fallows. They have little wheat, but a great deal of rye; and 
much better barley than in the French mountains. Instead of 
fallows they have maize and millet, and many more potatoes than in 
the French mountains. They have also French beans, and a little 
hemp. We saw two fields of vetches and square peas. The 
small potatoes, they give to their pigs, which do very well with 
them; and the leaves to their cows, but assert they refuse the roots. 
Buck-wheat also takes the place of fallow. Many crops of it 
were good, and some as fine as possible. 

The whole valley of Aran is well cultivated and highly peopled. 
It is about eight hours long, or about forty miles English, and has 
in it thirty-two villages. These villages, or rather little towns, 
have a very pretty appearance, the walls being well built, and the 
houses are well slated. But on entering these towns, the spectacle 
changes at once. We found them the abodes of poverty and 
wretchedness; not one window of glass to be seen in a whole town; 
scarcely any chimneys; both ground floor and the chimneys vom- 
iting smoke out of the windows. 

We arrived at Vielle, the capital of- this valley, and the passage 
from this part of France to Barcelona; a circumstance which has 
given some trifling resources to it. We were informed here, that 
we could not go into Spain without a passport; we therefore waited 
on the governor, who presides over the whole valley and its thirty- 
two towns. His house was the only one we had seen with glass" 
windows. He is a lieutenant-colonel, and knight of Calatrava. 
In his anti-room was the king's picture, with a canopy of state 
over it. The governor received us with the Spanish formality, 
and assured us that a few months ago, there was an order to send 
every foreigner, found without a passport, to the troops. Such 
orders show pretty well the number of foreigners here. On each 
side of his bed was a brace of pistols, and a crucifix in the middle. 
Wq did not ask in which he put the most confidence. 

We made enquiries concerning the agriculture. They have no 
farmers. Every one cultivates his own land, which is never fal- 
lowed. They have no species of manufactures, but spinning and 
weaving for the private use of every family. 

The mountains belong as in the French Pyrenees, to the par- 
ishes. Each inhabitant has a right to cut what wood he pleases 
for fuel and repairs, in the woods assigned for that purpose. 
Others are let by lease at public auction for the benefit of the par- 
ish, the trees to be cut being marked; and in general, the police 
of their woods is better than on the French side. When woods 
are cut they are preserved. Their mountain pastures not used by 
themselves, they let to the owners of large flocks, who bring 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 245 

them from the lower part of Catalonia. These flocks rise to four 
thousand sheep, the rent, in general, being from five to seven 
sous a head for the summer food. Every inhabitant possesses 
cattle, which he keeps in the common mountains in what quantity 
he pleases; but others who do not belong to the parish, pay five 
to seven sous a head for sheep, and ten sous for a cow; which 
disproportion they explain, by saying, that sheep must have a 
much greater range. In summer they make cheese, which we 
tasted and found good. In winter their cattle are kept at home, and 
their cows fed on buck-wheat straw, which they assert to be good 
food; also that of maize and millet, and a little hay; most of it being 
assigned to their mules. They have good sheep, but are all sent to 
Saragossa or Barcelona. They have scarce any oxen; what few 
they kill, they salt for winter. 

Taxes are light; the whole which the town is assessed at, being 
only two thousand seven hundred livres, which they pay by rent 
of their woods and pastures let. When the principles of a govern- 
ment tend to despotism, and the very pictures of kings are treated 
with reverence, the consequence is light taxation. The only ef- 
fectual means of insuring a great revenue, is to extend the princi- 
ples and the exercise of liberty. The change is, and ever will be, as 
much for the benefit of the prince as of the subject. 

At Bagnere de Luchon we are told that the inn at Vielle wa* 
good. We found the lower floor a stable, from which we mounted 
to a black kitchen, and through that to a baking-room with a 
large batch of loaves making for an oven which was heating to 
receive them. In this room was two beds for all the travellers 
that might come. If too numerous, straw is spread on the floor ? 
and you may rest as you can. There was no glass in the windows. 
One of the beds was occupied, so that my companion slept on a 
table. The house, however, affords eggs for an omelet, good 
bread, thick wine, brandy, and fowls, killed after we arrived, 
The people were very dirty, but civil. 

On the eleventh of July we reached Scullo. The inn was so 
bad, that our guide would not permit us to enter it, but conducted 
us to the house of the Cure. A scene followed, so new to Eng- 
lish eyes, that we could not refrain from laughing very heartily, 
Not a pane of glass in the whole town, but our reverend host had 
a chimney in his kitchen. He ran to the river to catch trout 
A man brought us some chickens, which were put to death on the 
spot. For light, they had kindled some splinters of pitch-pine; 
and two merry wenches, with three or four men collected to stare 
at us, as well as we at them, were presently busy in satisfying 
our hunger. They gave us red wine so dreadfully putrid from the 
borachio, that I could not touch it; and brandy, but poisoned with 
anniseed. Then a bottle of excellent rich white wine was pro- 
duced, resembling good mountain, and all was well. But when 
we came to examine our beds, there was only one. My friend 



2 16 THE FLOWERS 01 

would again do the honours, and insisted on my taking it. He 
made his on a table; and what with bugs, fleas, rats, and mice, 
slept not. I was not attacked; and though the bed and a pavement 
might be ranked in the same class of softness, fatigue converted it 
to down. This town and its inhabitants are, to the eye, equally 
wretched. The smoke-holes instead of chimneys; the total want 
of glass windows, the cheerfulness of which, to the eye, is known 
only by the want; the dress of the women, all in black, with cloth 
of the same colour about their heads, and hanging half down their 
backs; no shoes; no stockings; the effect upon the whole dismal: 
savage as the rocks and mountains. Young. 



SECTION LXXXV. 
Of Madrid. A. D. 17 78. 

IN the afternoons, we spent our time in visiting the most re- 
markable edifices of this city. If you except the royal palaces, 
there are few buildings worthy of attention, nor do I believe there 
is in Europe a capital that has so little to show as Madrid. Hav- 
ing never been the see of a bishop, it has of course no cathedral, 
nor indeed any church, that distinguishes itself much from the 
common herd of parishes and convents. Allowing some few ex- 
ceptions, I think I may safely pronounce the outward architecture 
of them all to be barbarous, and their manner of ornamenting the 
inside as bad as that of the worst ages. Most of them were erected 
or retouched during the term of years that elapsed between the 
middle of the seventeenth century and the year 1759, a period in 
the history of Spain, when all the arts and sciences were fallen to 
the lowest ebb; the effects of the degeneracy of the manners, the 
want of public spirit, and the disorder and weakness of a decaying 
monarchy. These vices in the political system, under the three 
last princes of the Austrian line, could not be removed immedi- 
ately on the accession of another family. The wars that shook the 
very foundations of their throne, for the first ten years of this cen- 
tury, kept all polite arts grovelling in the dust; and when they 
ventured to raise their heads again, and court the favour of the 
sovereign, there seems to have been a total want of able professors 
to second their efforts, and assist them in returning to the paths of 
^ood sense and true taste. 

No mad architect ever dreamed of a distortion of members so 
capricious, and a twist of pillars, cornices, or pediments, so wild 
and fantastic, but what a real sample of it may be produced in some 
or other of the churches of Madrid. They are all small, and poor 
in marbles as well as pictures. Their altars are piles of wooden 
ornaments, heaped up to the ceiling, and stuck full of wax lights, 
which more than once have set fire to the whole church. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 247 

The convents, which may be said to possess a good collection of 
pictures, are those of St. Pasqual, and of the barefooted Carmelite 
nuns. The former has a fine Titian, a capital Guerchino, and 
many other pieces by esteemed Italian masters. In the sacristy of 
the latter, is a very numerous collection of paintings by various 
hands, many of which are of superior merit. The tombs of Fer- 
dinand the VI. and of his queen Barbara, in the church of the Vi- 
sitation, are almost the only sepulchral monuments of any conse- 
quence. 

The royal palace is all of white stone. Each of the fronts be- 
ing four hundred and seventy feet in length, by one hundred high, 
this pile towers over all the country, where nothing intercepts the 
view for many miles. The entrances and ground floor appear 
more like those of some mighty fortress, than of the peaceable ha- 
bitation of a powerful monarch, an hundred leagues removed from 
his frontiers. The range of large glazed arches round the inner 
court, resemble the inside of a manufactory. This is the more un- 
pardonable, as they had at no great distance, in the Eleazar of 
Toledo, as elegant a colonnade as the nicest critic could desire. 
The beautiful circular court of Granada might have suggested no- 
ble ideas to the architect; but perhaps at that time the very exis- 
tence of such a thing was a secret at Madrid. 

The stair-case was meant to be double, but it was afterwards 
judged more convenient to shut up one flight, as the remaining 
half answered every purpose. At the foot of the stairs I shall 
leave all my spleen, and prepare myself with unfeigned satisfac- 
tion to describe to you the beauty and grandeur of the upper apart- 
ments. 

I know no palace in Europe fitted up with so much true royal 
magnificence. The richest marbles are employed with great taste 
in forming the cornices and socles of the rooms and the frames of 
the doors and windows. What enhances the value of these mar- 
bles, is the circumstance of their being all produced in the quarries 
of Spain, from whence it is the opinion of a learned writer, that 
ancient Rome was supplied with many of the precious materials 
that enriched her porticoes and temples. At least there is no pre- 
sumption in asserting, that the bowels of the earth in Spain con- 
tain most of those species of marbles, that are to be seen in the 
ruins of the mistress of the world, whatever might be the countries 
from which they were drawn. Porphyry is found near Cordova: 
the finest jasper near Aracena; the mountains of Granada furnish 
a beautiful green, those of Tortosa a variety of brown marble. 
Leon and Malaga send alabaster ; Toledo, Talavera, Badajoz, and 
Murviedro, abound in marbles of different colours; and most parts 
of the kingdom afford some specimen or other of jasper, besides 
the amethyst and its radix, for which Spain is celebrated above 
most other countries. 



24S THE FLOWERS OF 

The great audience chamber is one of the highest T know. The 
ceiling, painted by Tiepolo, represents the triumph of Spain. 
Round the cornice the artist has placed allegorical figures of its 
different provinces, distinguished by their productions, and at- 
tended by several of their inhabitants in the provincial habit. 
These form a most uncommon picture, and a curious set of Cos- 
tumi. The walls are incrustated with beautiful marble, and all 
around hung with large plates of looking-glass in rich frames. 
The manufactory of glass is at St. Ildefonso, where they cast them 
of very great size; but I am told they are apt to turn out much 
rougher, and fuller of flaws, than those made in France. 

A collection of pictures, by the greatest masters of the art, 
adorn the walls of the inner apartments; but even this vast fabric 
does not afford room for all the riches his Catholic majesty pos- 
sesses in this branch. The detail and catalogue of a number of 
paintings, is sure to fatigue a reader who has never seen, nor can 
ever rationally expect to see them; therefore it is incumbent on me 
to select only a few of my favourites from my memorandums. 

Of the works of Titian, the most remarkable are, a bacchanalian 
woman lying on her back asleep. The liquor has diffused a glow 
over her beautiful face, and her body is divinely handsome. One 
of the greatest painters of the age has often declared, he never 
passed before this picture without being struck with admiration: 
some boys playing, full of grace, and a charming variety of atti- 
tudes. 

Rubens — Christ and St. John the Baptist, lovely children. A 
priest on horseback, carrying the viaticum to a sick person, accom- 
panied by Rodolph, earl of Hapsburgh, one of the master-pieces of 
his pencil. 

Murillo — A vintager, wine seller, holy family, two boys; all in 
their different characters, excellently painted with. a rich mellow 
colour. 

Vandyke — The seizing of Christ in the garden, a strong com- 
position; several portraits absolutely alive. 

Spagnolet — Isaac feeling Jacob's hands; very capital. 

In the shallow vale between the Retiro and the town, which 
has not the least suburb of any kind belonging to it, the present 
king has finished the Prado, which in a few years, provided they 
manage the trees properly, will be one of the finest walks in the 
world. Its length and breadth are great, the avenues drawn in an 
intelligent, noble style, the foot paths wide and neat, the iron rail- 
ing and stone scats done in a grand expensive ^manner. All the 
eoaches of Madrid drive in the ring here; and though the absence of 
the court lessens the appearance more than two-thirds, yet last 
night I counted two hundred carriages following each other. On 
the declivity of the Retiro, they mean to plant a botanical garden. 

The view from this walk is, as it should be, confined; for the 
winds are so sharp and boisterous, and the landscape so horrid all 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 249 

round the city, that no place of public resort could be comfortable, 
unless it were, like this, shut in from all distant views, and shel- 
tered by the hills from the blasts that sweep over the highlands of 
Castile. 

To. the west, it has the town, the three principal streets of 
which terminate in the Prado. These are three noble openings, ex- 
cellently paved, and clean even to a nicety; indeed so are most of 
the streets of Madrid since the edict for paving and cleaning them. 
The foreigners that resided here before that time, shudder at the 
very recollection of its former filth. 

Some of the natives regret the old stinks and nastiness; as they 
pretend that the air of Madrid is so subtle, as to require a proper 
mixture of grosser effluvia, to prevent its pernicious effects upon 
the constitution. The extremes of cold and heat are astonishing 
in this place, and the winds so searching, that all the Spaniards 
wear leathern under waistcoats, to preserve their chests; for they 
pervade every other kind of clothing. In summer the dust is in- 
tolerable. Swinburne. 

SECTION LXXXVI. 

Of the Royal Family of Sjjain. 

WE have just finished our round of presentations, which, in s.o 
numerous a royal family, is a work of more days than one. As I 
know you expect a minute account of each of those that compose it, 
I am sorry I am incapable of satisfying your curiosity in as ample 
a manner as I could wish. You shall have a description of their 
persons, and as much of their characters as I have learned from 
well informed people, in whose judgment I can confide. I beg 
you will consider how hard it is to discern the true character of the 
great, as your intelligence can only flow through the suspicious 
channel of many jarring passions and interests. It is impossible 
for a stranger to seize a good likeness in so short a time, and to 
transmit to others a faithful representation of a prince that does 
not admit him to a familiar intercourse. 

I don't know but sovereigns are the most difficult characters to 
define in a whole nation; for all princes appear pretty nearly alike. 
Their mode of life is uniform. By seeing none but inferiors 
about them, they acquire a great indifference in their manner, 
and seldom betray in their countenance any of those strong emo- 
tions that mark the various feelings of men obliged to bustle 
through the world. Their passions lack the relish which arises 
from delays and difficulties. What the French call ennui, weari- 
someness, is, methinks, the grand malady of princes, and there- 
fore, amusement is their main pursuit in life. 

In the princes of the house of Bourbon, the passion of fowling 
pi-edomi nates; yet in the Spanish royal family, there are soriae 



250 THE FLOWERS OF 

who toil at the gun with more reluctance than the fanner's hoy 
does at the plough; have a taste for arts and sciences, and wish 
for nothing more than to be freed from the obligation of following 
the diversion. 

The ceremony of presentation is performed as the king rises 
from table. Charles the Third is a much better looking man than 
most of his pictures make him. He has a good-natured laughing 
eye. The lower part of his face, by being exposed to all wea- 
thers, is become of a deep copper colour. What his hat covers is 
fair, as he naturally has a good skin. In stature he is rather short, 
thickly built about the legs and thighs, and narrow in the shoulder?. 
His dress seldom varies from a large hat, a plain grey Segovia 
frock, a buff waistcoat, a small dagger, black breeches, and worst- 
ed stockings. His pockets are always stuffed with knives, gloves, 
and shooting tackle. On Gala day, a fine suit is hung over his 
shoulders, but as he has an eye to his afternoon sport, and is a 
great economist of his time, the black breeches are worn to all 
coats. 1 believe there are but three days in the whole year that 
he spends without going out a shooting, and those are noted with 
the blackest mark in the calendar. Were they to occur often, his 
health would be in danger, and an accident that was to confine him 
to the house, would infallibly bring on a fit. of illness. No storm, 
heat, cold, or wet, can keep him at home; and when he hears of 
a wolf being seen, distance is counted for nothing. He would 
drive over half the kingdom rather than miss an opportunity of 
firing upon that favourite game. 

Besides a most numerous retinue of persons belonging to the 
hunting establishment, several times a year, all the idle fellows 
in and about Madrid are hired to beat the country, and drive the 
wild boars, deer, and hares, into a ring, where they pass before 
the royal family. A very large annual sum is distributed among 
the proprietors of land about the capital, and near the country 
palaces, by way of indemnification for the damage done to the 
corn. I was assured that it cost seventy thousand pounds sterling 
for the environs of Madrid, and thirty thousand for those of Saint 
Ildefonso. In order to be entitled to this reimbursement, the 
farmers scatter just as much seed corn over their grounds, as will 
grow up into something like a crop; but they do not always give 
themselves the trouble of getting in the scanty harvest, being suf- 
ficently paid for their labour by the royal bounty. 

Being naturally of an even phlegmatic temper, the king is sure 
to see events on their favourable side only; and whenever he has 
determined in his own mind, that a measure is proper to be pursu- 
ed, he is an utter enemy to alteration. As far as I. can judge, by 
comparing the different accounts I have had, he is a man of the 
strictest probity, incapable of adopting any scheme, unless he is 
perfectly satisfied in his conscience that it is just and honourable; — 
of such, immovable features, that the most fortunate or the most. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 251 

disastrous occurrences, are alike unable to create the smallest va- 
riation in them; — rigid in his morals, and strenuously attached to 
his religion; but he does not suffer his devotion to lay him open to 
the enterprises of the court of Rome, or the encroachments of his 
own clergy; op the contrary, they have frequently met with 
rougher usage at his hands than they might have expected from a 
free-thinker. 

The regularity of his own life renders him very strict about the 
conduct of his children, whom he obliges to be out fishing or 
shooting as long as he is absent on the same business. This he 
does to prevent their having time or opportunity to harbour bad 
thoughts; and truly I believe he goes out so constantly himself, in 
order to keep down the vigour of his own constitution. He sel- 
dom addresses himself to any young men of his court; but delights 
in conversing and joking with elderly persons, and such as are of 
his own age, especially monks and friars. He is- very partial to 
Naples, and always speaks of that country with great feeling. 

Since his accession, many great works have been completed; 
noble roads made to all the palaces round the metropolis; several 
others undertaken in more remote provinces. He has finished the 
palace at Madrid, and added considerably to those of the Prado 
and Aranjuez; built new towns at Aranjuez, and Escurial, and 
St. Ildefonso; and painted a great deal at Aranjuez. The Marquis 
of Grimaldi has the merit of having suggested and conducted most 
of these improvements, and of having urged on the king, who al- 
though he has naturally no great relish for the arts, thinks it is the 
duty of a sovereign to encourage them. 

The Prince of Asturias is of an athletic make, his countenance 
rather severe, and his voice harsh. He seemed in a great hurry to 
get away from us; but the princess. stayed chatting a great while. 
She is not handsome, being very sickly, but seems lively, and 
genteely shaped, with a very fine hand and arm. If she lives to 
be a queen, I dare say she will render this court a very gay one; 
for she appears to like to go abroad, and converse with strangers. 
When she walks out, all persons that have been presented, and 
chance to be in the way, are expected to join her company, and 
escort her as long as she thinks proper. Her.mildness and good- 
nature have softened much of her husband's roughness of manner; 
and of late he seems to have more pleasure in sitting with her in a 
domestic way, than in trudging over the heath in quest of game. 

Don Gabriel is a tall well looking man, but timid to excess. He 
possesses many talents, but his constant avocations out of doors 
prevent his applying to study as much as he could wish. I have 
seen some good pictures done by him, and have heard much of his 
classical learning, and turn for mathematics. 

Don Antonia appears to be very well pleased with the active life 
of a sportsman. 



I 

25.2 THE FX0WJERS OF 

The infanta Maria Josepha has reason to envy every country 
wench she sees roaming at liberty; for confinement, etiquette, and 
celibacy, are likely to be her lot during life. 

Don Lewis, the king's brother, after having been a cardinal and 
an archbishop, is now on the eve of matrimony with a pretty Arra- 
gonese girl, whom he took a fancy to last year, as she was running 
across the fields after a butterfly. As he has made a collection of 
natural history, the similarity of taste made a great impression up- 
on him. This wedding which the king has consented to with re- 
luctance, has produced a total revolution in the marriage laws of 
Spain. A new pragmatica or edict is published, to prevent all 
matches hetwixt persons of unequal rank and quality. By this 
decree the old custom is abrogated. Heretofore it was out of the 
power of parents to hinder their children from marrying whom 
they liked, and the church interposed to oblige them to make a 
suitable settlement upon the young couple. 

Don Lewis's bride is not to be allowed the title or rank of a 
princess of the blood, nor are her children to be deemed qualified 
to succeed to the crown. He is to reside near Talavera, where I 
make no doubt but he will lead a happy life, as he has a great 
taste for music and natural history. His cabinet already contains a 
very valuable collection of rarities, especially such as are found in. 
the Spanish dominions. This prince is cheerful, humane, affable, 
and full of pleasantry; good qualities that render him the darling 
of the nation. 

The king and all the males of his family wear the ensigns of a 
great variety of military orders. On their left breast is a row of 
stars like the belt of the constellation of Orion. They are also de- 
corated with the blue ribband of the French order of the Holy 
Ghost, and the insignia of the Burgundian Golden Fleece. They 
have besides the Neapolitan red sash of St. Januarius, the red 
crosses of Calatrava, founded in 115S, of St. Jago, dated from 
1175, and of Montesia, instituted in 1317, and the green cross of 
Alcantaria, invented in 1176. After all these badges, comes the 
blue and white ribband of the Conception of Carlos Tergero, esta- 
blished by the present king, on the birth of the late son of the 
Prince of Asturias. Swinburne. 



SECTION LXXXVII. 

Character of the Spaniards. 

IT has been my constant study, during our tour round Spain, to 
note down and transmit to you every peculiarity that might throw 
light upon the distinctive turn and genius of the nation. Expe- 
rience has taught me to look upon this method as the best, and in- 
deed the only sure guide to knowledge of a people; but at the same 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. ,253 

time has made me sensible how imperfect an idea is to be acquired 
by a transitory view, in a progress of a few months. Customs that 
struck me at first as unaccountable, from my ignorance of motives 
and situations, have frequently since appeared to me not only pro- 
per and rational, but absolutely so much in the common course of 
things, that I have wondered how I came to put them down as ex- 
traordinary. 

The mistakes I have found myself guilty of in several little re- 
marks made in the first part of my journey, have rendered me very 
cautious of deciding upon matters, where I could not come at a 
knowledge of their causes. I therefore very early learned to mis- 
trust my senses, and applied where I expected to have my doubts 
resolved, and the reasons of modes and usages explained to me. 

Accordingly I omitted no opportunity of drawing information 
from the natives of all ranks; from strangers long established in 
Spain, and from those who, having resided but a few years there, 
were more likely to be sensible of the singularities of the natural 
disposition. I cannot say my endeavours have been crowned with 
much success. 

Were I to draw the picture of the Spaniards from the manifold 
sketches traced by their countrymen, every province in the king- 
dom would in its turn appear a Paradise, and a Pandemonium, a 
seat of holy spirits, and a receptacle of malicious devils. The most 
contradictory accounts, enforced by the most positive assevera- 
tions, have been repeatedly given me of the same places. I have 
often found the virtue one; province prides itself in, *as being the 
specific mark of its inhabitants, not only refused them by a neigh- 
bouring country, but the very opposite vice imposed upon them as 
their characteristic. The English, French, and other foreigners, 
living in Spain, are in general but indifferently qualified Xo decide 
upon these matters. As long as they retain the prejudices they 
brought from home against every thing that clashes with their na- 
tive customs, they are but partial judges; and \yhen once they fall 
into the ways of the place where commerce has fixed their lot, they 
become such thorough-paced Spaniards, that they can neither per- 
ceive the particularities you speak to them of, nor assign reasons 
for uses that have grown habitual to them. 

As I am not ashamed to acknowledge my insufficiency, I frankly 
confess it is not in my power to give what you may think a satis- 
factory character of the Spaniards. Were I inclined to flatter my 
self-love, I might add, that I do not esteem any of those who have 
already written on the subject, much better qualified than myself. 
What I can venture to say amounts to very little. 

The Catalonians appear to be the most active, stirring set of 
men, the best calculated for business, travelling and manufactories. 
The Valencians are a more sullen, sedate race, better adapted to 
the occupations of husbandmen, less eager to change place, and of a 
much more timid, suspicious cast of mind than the former, The 



251: THE FLOWEKs OF 

Andalusians seem to me the great talkers and rhodomontadoes of 
Spain. The Castilians have a manly frankness, and less appear- 
ance of cunning and deceit. The New Castilians are perhaps the 
least industrious of the whole nation; the Old Castilians are labori- 
ous, and retain more of the ancient simplicity of manners; both are 
of a firm, determined spirit. I take the Arragonese to be a mix- 
ture of the Castilians and Catalonians, rather inclining to the for- 
mer. The Biscayners are acute and diligent, fiery, and impatient 
of controul; more resembling a colony of republicans, than a pro- 
vince of an absolute monarchy. The Gallicians are a plodding, 
pains-taking race of mortals, that roam over Spain in search of an 
hardly earned subsistence. 

The listless indolence equally dear to the uncivilized savage, 
and to the degenerate slave of despotism, is no where more indulg- 
ed than in Spain. Thousands of men in all parts of the realm are 
seen to pass their whole day, wrapped up in a cloak, standing in 
rows against a wall, or dozing under a tree. In total want of every 
excitement to action, the springs of their intellectual faculties for- 
get to play, their views grow confined within the wretched sphere 
of mere existence, and they scarce seem to hope or foresee any 
thing better than their present state of vegetation. They feel lit- 
tle or no concern for the welfare or glory of a country, where the 
surface of the earth is engrossed by a few overgrown families; who 
seldom bestow a thought on the condition of their vassals. The 
poor Spaniard does not work, unless urged by irresistible want, 
because he perceives no advantage accrue from industry. As his 
food and raiment are purchased at a small expense, he spends no 
more time in labour, than is absolutely necessary for procuring the 
scanty provision hys abstemiousness requires. I have heard a pea- 
sant refuse to run an errand because he had that morning earned 
as much already as would last him the day, without putting him- 
self to any further trouble. 

Yet I am convinced that this laziness is not essentially inherent in 
the Spanish composition. For it is impossible, without seeing 
them, to conceive with what eagerness they pursue any favourite 
scheme, with what violence their passions work upon them, and 
what vigour and exertion of powers the} 7 display when aw T akened 
by a bull-feast, or the more constant agitation of gaming, a vice to 
which they are superlatively addicted. Were it again possible, b}^ 
an intelligent, spirited administration, to set before their eyes, in 
a clear and forcible manner, proper incitements to activity and in- 
dustry, the Spaniards might yet be roused from their lethargy, and 
led to riches and reputation; but I confess the task is so difficult, 
that I look upon it rather as an Utopian idea, than as a revolution 
likely ever to take place. 

Their soldiers are brave, and patient of hardships. "Wherever 
'heir officers lead them, they will follow without flinching, though 
it be up to the mouth of a battery of cannon; but unless the exam- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 255 

pie be given them by their commander, not a step will they ad- 
vance. 

Most of the Spaniards are hardy, and when once engaged go 
through difficulties without murmuring, bear the inclemencies of 
the season with firmness, and support fatigue with amazing perse- 
verance. They sleep every night in their cloaks on the ground; 
are sparing in diet, perhaps more from a sense of habitual indi- 
gence than from any aversion to gluttony. Whenever they can 
riot in the plenty of another man's table, they wjll gormandize to 
excess, and, not content with eating their fill, will carry off what- 
ever they can stuff into their pockets. I have more than once 
been a witness to the pillage of a supper, by the numerous beaux 
and admirers which the ladies lead after them in triumph, when- 
ever they are invited. They are fond of spices, and scarce eat 
any thing without saffron, pimento, or garlic. They delight in 
wine that tastes strong of the pitched skin, and of oil that has a 
rank smell and taste. Indeed, the same oil feeds their lamps, swims 
in their pottage, and dresses their sallad. In inns the lighted lamp 
is frequently handed down to table, that each man may take the 
quantity he chooses. Much tobacco is used by them in smoking 
and chewing. All these hot, drying kinds of food, co-operating 
with the parching qualities of the atmosphere, are assigned as 
causes of the spare make of common people in Spain, where the 
priests and the innkeepers are almost the only well-fed, portly 
figures to be met with. 

The Spanish is by no means naturally a serious melancholy na- 
tion. Misery and discontent have cast a gloom over them, in- 
creased, no doubt, by the long habit of distrust and terror inspired 
by the inquisition; yet every village still resounds with the music 
of voices and guitars; and their fairs and Sunday wakes are re- 
markably noisy and riotous. They talk louder, and argue with 
more vehemence than even the French or Italians, and gesticulate 
with equal, if not superior eagerrless. In Catalonia the young men 
are expert at ball; and every village has its pelota, or ground for 
flaying at fives; but in the south of Spain I never perceived that 
the inhabitants used any particular exercise. I am told, that in the 
island of Majorca they still wield the sling, for which their ances- 
tors, the Baleares, were so much renowned. 

Like most people of southern climates, they are dirty in their 
persons, and overrun with vermin. . 

As their constitution may be said to be made up of the most 
combustible ingredients, and prone to love in a degree. that natives 
of more northern latitudes can have no idea of, the custom of em- 
bracing persons of the other sex, which is used on many occasions 
by foreigners, sets the Spaniards all on fire. Thfey would as soon 
allow a man to pass the night in bed with their wive? or daugh- 
ters, as suffer him to give them a kiss. 



256 THE FLOWERS OF 

I was surprised to find them so much more lukewarm in their 
devotion than I had expected; but I will not take upon me to as- 
sert, though I have great reason to believe it, that there is in Spain, 
as little true moral religion, as in any country T ever travelled 
through, although none abounds more with provincial protectors, 
local Madonnas, and altars celebrated for particular cures or indul- 
gencies. Religion is a topic not to be touched, much less handled 
with any degree of curiosity, in the dominions of so tremendous 
a tribunal as the inquisition, From what little I saw, I am apt to 
suspect, that the people here trouble themselves with very few 
serious thoughts on the subject; and that, provided they can bring 
themselves to believe that their favourite saint looks upon them with 
an eye of affection, they take it for granted, that under his benign 
influence, they are freed from all apprehensions of damnation in a 
future state; and indeed, from any great concern about the moral 
duties of this life. The burning zeal which distinguished their an- 
cestors above the rest of the Catholic world, appears to have lost 
much of its activity, and really seems nearly extinguished. It is 
hard to prescribe bounds to the changes a crafty, steady, and po- 
pular monarch might make in ecclesiastical matters. The uncon- 
cern betrayed by the whole nation at the fall of the Jesuits, is a 
strong proof of their present indifference. Those fathers, the most 
powerful body politic in the kingdom, the rulers of the palace, 
and despots of the cottage, the directors of the conscience, and 
disposers of the fortune of every rank of men, were all seized in 
one night, by detachment's of soldiers, hurried like malefactors to 
the sea-ports, and banished for ever from the realm, without the 
least resistance to the royal mandate being made, or even threaten- 
ed. Their very memory seems to be annihilated with their power. 

We found the common people inoffensive, if not civil; and hav- 
ing never had an opportunity of being witnesses to any of their 
excesses, can say nothing of their violent jealousy or revenge, 
which are points most writers on Spain have expatiated upon with 
great pleasure. I believe in this line, as well as in many others, 
their bad as well as good qualities, have been magnified many de- 
grees above the truth. 

The national qualities, good and bad, conspicuous in the lower 
classes of men, are easily traced, and very discernible in those of 
higher rank; for their education is too much neglected, their minds, 
too little enlightened by study or communication with other nations, 
to rub off the general rust, with which the Spanish genius has, for 
above an age, been, as it were, incrustated. The public schools 
and universities are in a despicable state of ignorance and irregu- 
larity. Some feeble hope of future reformation is indulged by pa- 
triots; but time must show what probabilities they are grounded on. 

The reigns of Charles V. and Philip II. were the times of great 
men and good authors, the Spanish Augustan age, and continued 
a few years under Philip III. Since those days, it is difficult to 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 257 

point out any original work of learning or merit, except those of 
Cervantes and La Vega, who survived the rest of the geniuses of 
that period. 

The common education of an English gentleman would consti- 
tute a man of learning here; and should he understand Greek, he 
would be quite a phenomenon. 

As to the nobility, I wonder how they ever learned to read or 
write; or having once attained so much, how they contrive not to 
forget it. It is difficult to say what they pass their time in; or by 
what means, besides inattention to business, they employ in run- 
ning through their immense incomes. 

In the great houses, one custom may contribute to extravagance. 
A servant once established, is never discharged, unless for some 
very enormous offence. He and his family remain pensioners as 

long as they live. The Duke of 1 pays near ten thousand 

pounds sterling a year in wages and annuities to servants. 

Swinburne. 



SECTION LXXXVIII. 

Of the Spanish Ladies. 

THE Spanish women are in general little and thin. Few are 
strikingly beautiful, but almost all have sparkling black eyes, full 
of Expression. It is not the fashion here, as in France, to heighten, 
their eclat with paint. They are endowed by nature with a great 
deal of wit and lively repartee, but for want of the polish and 
succours of education, the wit remains obscured by the rudest ig- 
norance, and the most ridiculous prejudices. Their tempers hav- 
ing never been fashioned by polite intercourse, nor softened by ne- 
cessary contradiction, are extremely pettish and violent. They 
are continually pouting about something or other, and put out of 
humour by the merest trifles. 

Most of the ladies about court are the reverse of handsome, and 
do not seem to have any ambition of passing for clever or accom- 
plished. Not one talent do they possess; nor do they ever work, 
read, write, or touch any musical instrument. Their Cortejo, or 
gallant, seems their only play-thing. I believe no country exhi- 
bits more barefaced amour, and such an appearance of indelicate 
debauchery as this. 

The account given me of their manner of living in the family 
way, as soon as they come out of the convent, and before they have 
fixed upon a lover, to fill up their time more agreeably is as fol- 
lows: They rise late, and loiter away the remains of the morning 
among their attendants, or wear it out at church in a long bead-roll 
of habitual unmeaning prayers. They dine sparingly, sleep, and 
1 hen dress to saunter for a couple of hours on the Prado. They 
33 



25$- THE FLOWERS OF 

are never without some sort of sugar-plum, or high spiced comfit 
in their mouths. 

As soon as it is dark, they run to the house of some elderly fe- 
male relation, where they all huddle together over a pan of coals, 
and would not for the world approach the company that may occa- 
sionally drop in. It would throw them into the greatest confusion 
were they to be requested to join in the conversation. The hour 
of assembly passed, they hurry home to their maids, and with their 
help, set about dressing their own suppers by way of amusement. 

Swinburne. 



SECTION LXXXIX. 

Anecdote of a Friar- 

A VERY furious example of passion and cruelty happened while 
I was in Spain, A Carmelite friar fell desperately in love with a 
young woman to whom he was confessor. He tried every art oi 
seduction his desires could suggest to him; but to his unspeakable 
vexation, found her virtue or indifference, proof against all his ma- 
chinations. His despair was heightened to a pitch of madness, 
upon hearing that she was soon to be married to a person of her 
own rank in life The furies of jealousy seized his soul, and 
worked him up to the most barbarous of all determinations, that of 
depriving his rival of the prize, by putting an end to her existence. 
He chose Easter week for the perpetration of his crime. The un- 
suspecting girl came to the confessional, and poured out her soul 
at his feet. Her innocence served only to inflame his rage the 
more, and to confirm him in his bloody purpose. He gave her 
absolution and the sacrament with his own hands, as his love de- 
terred him from murdering her before he thought she was purified 
from all stain of sin, and her soul fit to take its flight to the tribu- 
nal of its Creator; but his jealousy and revenge urged him to pur- 
sue her down the church, and plunge a dagger in her heart, as she 
turned round to make a genuflection to the altar. He was immedi- 
ately seized, and soon condemned to die; but lest his ignominious 
execution should reflect dishonour on a religious order, which 
boasts of having an aunt of the king of France among its members, 
his sentence was changed into perpetual labour among the galley- 
slaves of Porto Rico. Swinburne. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 259 

SECTION XC. 

Of the Baths at Bagneres. 

BAGNERES derives its name from the mineral baths which 
were known and frequented by the ancient Romans, as many in- 
scriptions and monuments, still existing on the spot, satisfactorily 
demonstrate. 

The peasants of the neighbourhood are a lively race, and often 
assemble in a shady walk near the gates, to dance. One of the 
queens of Navarre remitted all fines upon a lineation of property 
at Bagneres, on condition that a small sum should be levied upon 
each person admitted to his freedom, and spent in bonfires and 
other merry expenses at midsummer. 

The situation of this place is happily calculated for all exercises 
that tend to tbe recovery of health. It is built on a flat and very 
dry soil. Every part of it enjoys an easy communication with the 
fields, the banks of the river, or the high roads, where the weaker 
sort of visitants may breathe the fresh air, and regain strength by 
moderate exertions; while the more vigorous, who repair to Bag- 
neres for the sake of amusement, may climb delightful hills, and 
wander among shady groves, through a variety of landscapes. The 
plains and eminences are traversed by innumerable paths, accessible 
to horsemen as well as foot passengers. The high grounds are not, 
like those in the Alps, broken and precipitous, but easily sloped, 
and clothed with soft and pleasant verdure. The timber that 
crowns their summits is of the noblest size. In the heart of culti- 
vation, and near the foot of the mountains, the Spanish chestnut 
predominates, intermingled with cherry, walnut, and other fruit 
trees, round which the vine entwines its tendrils. Higher up, the 
extent of pasture becomes more considerable. The middle regions 
of the mountains are darkened with woods of beech, overhung by 
forests of silver fur, and above all, black pinnacles of rocks shoot 
up to a frightful height, with here and there a wreath of snow pre- 
served unmelted through the summer by the protection of their 
shade. 

That side of the mountains which faces the noon-tide sun is 
richly covered with wood; but the opposite slope is seldom so 
beautiful, for it produces fewer trees, and those of a stinted growth. 
The greatest part of these forests is the common property of the 
neighbouring villages, and as high as carriage can be easily con- 
trived, is cut after a regular but careless manner, for the supply of 
fuel, and the purposes of husbandry. 

The medicinal waters at Bagneres have alone reseued this valley 
from the obscurity which involves so many neighbouring beauti- 
ful districts. A great number of boiling, lukewarm, and cold 
streams issue out of the sides of the mountain that covers the town 



26^, THE FLOWERS OF 

on the western aspect. All of them possess, or are supposed to 
possess, very strong healing qualities, which each patient applies 
with great confidence to his particular disorder, under the directions 
of the physicians of the place. The summit of this mountain is 
indented with a large hollow, similar to the crater of a volcano; 
and 1 have no doubt but fire has been emitted from this cup at 
some period beyond the reach of history. The fire which was 
then sufficient to produce explosions, and to cast forth torrents of 
lava, still retains the powers, in its weaker state, of imparting vir- 
tue in its various degrees to the mineral springs that flow from the 
mountain where its focus is established. 

The number of wells and baths amount to thirty. Some are co- 
vered in for the use of patients, who can afford to pay for their 
cures. Others are open pools where the poorer class gargle their 
ulcerous throats, or lave their sores, gratis. The heat of some 
spouts is at first almost insupportable, but gradually grows less 
painful. I have seen people expose their diseased limbs to the 
boiling stream for more than a quarter of an hour at a time. The 
hottest spring raises the quicksilver in Farenheit's thermometer to 
123 degrees, while the coolest causes it to ascend no higher than 
86. Out of the thirty different sources, two are exactly equal in 
heat to that of the human body, ten below, and eighteen above it. 
Their medicinal qualities differ no less essentially than their de- 
grees of heat; for the waters of the Queen's bath are strongly pur- 
gative, those of Salut and Le Pre diuretic and cooling. 

The bath of Salut is situated about a mile from the town, among 
the monntains. A pleasant winding road leads to it, through beau- 
tiful fields planted with clumps of chesnut trees. The houses and 
groves on the surrounding hills cheer the prospect; but in so hot a 
season, and in this latitude, an avenue would be a greater improve- 
ment and relief to the patients. 

The spring is copious, and equal to the demands of the crowds 
that flock round it on holidays, wjien every person may drink his 
fill for the value of thiee farthings, English. The vogue is so 
great, that two guineas have been taken in one morning, at this 
low price. 

From the drinking place, the waters are conveyed into two mar- 
ble troughs, which are in constant use during the whole season. 
Seniority of residence constitutes the right of bathing; and there- 
fore many late comers, who foresee but a distant prospect of being 
accommodated with an hour of Salut, take up with the other baths 
of inferior reputation, but perhaps equal efficacy. The degree of 
heat of Salut is 88.§. When evaporated by a slow equal fire, the 
surface of its water is covered with a pellicle formed by small in- 
sipid crystals, which towards the completion of the evaporation 
acquire considerable acritude. These waters contain no particles 
of iron, but small parallelopiped pyrites are frequently found in 
them, of a bright golden colour, and about an inch long. 

Swinburne. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 201 

SECTION XCI. 

Journey into the heart of the Py renean mountains. 

I RETURNED yesterday to Bagneres from a journey on horse- 
back, through the most romantic and curious part of the Pyrenees, 
and hasten to impart my observations, while each idea is still im- 
pressed with force "on the tablet of my memory." 

I set out on the sixth of August, with some friends, and trav- 
elled to the valley. The low grounds are finely cultivated. Num- 
berless streams pour across the road, and hurry to blend their 
waters with those of the Adour, which is here confined to a nar- 
row bed. Beyond it eastward, the mountains are covered with 
beautiful verdure. At their foot, stands Aste, a village belonging 
to the family of Grammont. 

A peasant who resides here, earns a livelihood by supplying the 
apothecaries with medicinal plants, which he gathers on the adja- 
cent mountains, particularly that of Lieris, justly celebrated for 
the immense and variegated show of flowers, that cover its elevated 
pastures, before sheep and cattle are let in to graze. 

The convent of capuchins, at Medous, opposite to Aste, is 
placed so closely under a mountain, that in winter it enjoys but 
two hours' sun-shine in the whole day. Its garden is remark- 
able for a large volume of water, that issues out of the rocks. 
Trouts are often seen swimming down the stream; but if dis- 
turbed, they retire into the bowels of the mountain, to some sub- 
terraneous lake. 

The populousness of this vale, is scarce credible. In the extent 
of three miles, I reckoned near five hundred houses or barns. 
The burgh of Campan, gives name to the upper district, and is 
famous for the excellency of its butter. It acknowledges n© lord 
but the king, and has considerable woods and cultivated lands ap- 
pertaining to its community. 

At a small distance above the town, we were conducted to a 
celebrated grotto, in the side of a bare mountain. The entrance 
is narrow and sloping, hut at the depth of ten feet, the floor of the 
cavern lies nearly on a level. The vault seldom exceeds nine 
feet in height. Its length is a hundred and four yards. The 
path is wet and rugged. The walls and roof are incrustrated with 
crystallisations; but all that were curious for size, shape, or beauty 
' of colour, had been broken off and carried away by preceding 
travellers. At the end of the grotto, we found a marble slab, 
fixed up by order of the countess of Brionne, to commemorate, 
that, after infinite labour, she, with her family and her servants, 
whose names are all consigned to immortality on this subterrane- 
ous monument, penetrated thus far into the bowels of the earth, 
in the year 170(5, 



^02 THJS FLOWfcRS OP 

Above Cainpan, the valley grew more confined. The hills on 
the right hand, were studded with trees and barns, and covered 
with lively verdure; those on the left, were rocky, barren, and 
savage. At the chapel of St. Mary, two branches of the Adour, 
flow from different glens and join their waters. We rode up the 
more western stream to Grip, where all level ground terminates. 
Noble groves of fir overhang the river, which dashes successively 
down three romantic falls. Having taken some refreshment, we 
proceeded up the mountain by a winding, steep, and rugged path, 
through a forest of silver and spruce firs. We occasionally caught 
views of the river foaming among the rocks and trees, and in one 
spot, darting over a vast precipice in a full, magnificent sheet. 

Upon leaving the woods, we crossed a large naked plain, at the 
foot of the Pic du midi, the highest mountain on the Pyrenees. 
The Adour issues out of a pyramidical hill, a few miles farther 
up, and winds in a small stream through the rushy pastures. 
Abundance of flowers animate the face of this otherwise dull scene 
of nature. We were now arrived in the highest point of land 
we had to surmount, when we were surprised by a very heavy 
fall of snow, that whitened all the surrounding eminences, but 
soon melted into rain, and wetted us thoroughly. 

When the storm abated, and the atmosphere grew clear, a hor- 
rible view opened down the valley of Bareges. Rude and barren 
mountains shade it on both sides, and the Baston, a foaming tor- 
rent, fills the intermediate hollow. We descended by the edge of 
the river and entered one of the blackest and most desolate places 
in nature, where not a tree was to be seen; but the highest were 
seamed with yawning crevices, and the passages blocked up with 
quarries of stone, tumbled from the cliffs, by the irresistible force 
of the waters. 

In this frightful chasm, stands the village Bareges, consisting of 
a single street, built along the south side of the torrent. The 
situation is so dangerous and horrid, that the inhabitants dare not 
abide here in winter. They remove all their furniture, even 
doors and windows, to such houses as are supposed most out of 
the way of mischief. A few invalid soldiers alone remain, to pre- 
serve the springs from being buried under the ;• <*th that slides 
down from the mountains. Sometimes a large volume of water 
bursts out of its side, the overplus of a lake on the summit, and 
sweeps off all before it. Every year, some houses are washed 
away by the floods, or crushed under the weight of snow. The 
avalanches, or heaps of snow, that are detached from the moun- 
tains, are often so prodigious as to fill up the whole bottom of the 
glen; and the river has been known to roll for several weeks 
through an arch of its own forming under this immeasurable 
mass. 

The mineral waters, for which Bareges is famed, issue out of the 
hill in the centre of the village, and arc distributed into three 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 2i)3 

baths. They are very fetid, but clear in the glass. Their de- 
grees of heat, rise from 89 to 1 12J. They are greasy to the touch, 
tinge silver black, and are esteemed sovereign in the cure of ul- 
cers, wounds, and scrophulous humours. The baths belong to the 
king, and are entirely under the direction of his surgeons. 

The poor have the use of a large bath, covered with boards, and 
are fed by a tax of six livres imposed upon all new comers. With 
this fund, a comfortable dinner is provided for them, and distri- 
buted in presence of the governor, a worthy veteran, who solicited 
this command from a motive of gratitude, having been cured of a 
dangerous wound by bathing it with these waters. 

No company resorts hither merely for amusement. Disorders 
only, and those severe and inveterate ones can induce people 1o 
inhabit these wild regions. There is an assembly-room and regu- 
lar bath, when it is, I know not whether a melancholy or a ludic- 
rous sight, to behold several couples dancing together, some with 
a leg bound up, others with an arm in a sling, and all with a feeble 
body and sickly aspect. 

In these mountainous scenes, nature exhibits her boldest features. 
Here every object is extended upon a vast scale, and the whole 
assemblage impresses the spectator with awe as well as admiration. 
I wish it were possible for me to communicate, by means of words 
or paintings, the rapturous sensations excited in my mind, by the 
sight of those sublime works of the Creator. 

As we advanced on our journey, we found ourselves immured 
in a narrow valley, with the Gave roaring below us, between 
walls of immense rocks, and frequently hidden from our view by 
thick groves of lime and oak trees. The path was wide enough 
for our mountain horses, but very alarming to some unexperienced 
travellers in our company. On one hand a perpendicular rock, 
without any parapet, laid open the deep gloomy bed of the river 
almost under our feet, and a shivery mountain pressed so close 
upon us on the other, as to leave no room for a retreat. The 
turns in the road, where torrents have heaped stones and choaked 
the pass with rubbish, are particularly distressing; but our horses 
were so unconcerned and sure-footed, that they soon inspired their 
riders with indifference for the surrounding perils. 

The whole valley is occupied by the river and the road, with 
vast piles of mountains rising on each side, and almost closing 
together. Now and then level spots occur at the angles of the 
river. We crossed a bridge romantically clothed with ivy, which 
hid the tremendous chasm from our eyes. Huge rocks rear up 
their perpendicular points, and torrents rush over them on all sides. 
The mountain ash and service-trees, blushing with clustered ber- 
ries, bend over the precipices, and soften the harshness of the wild 
prospect. After this, the valley rather swells out, and more room 
is allowed for the indefatigable industry of the inhabitants to ex- 
ert itself; but great part of the level, and all the lower region*; n\ 



264 THE FLOWERS OF 

the mountains, arc overgrown with wood, interspersed with a 
charming variety of flowering shrubs. Many of the favorite 
denizens of our English gardens flourish here in all their native 
luxuriancy. 

This dale terminates at Gecres, a rambling village on the side of 
the mountain. The road is afterwards cut through the rock, and 
leads to a situation that gave us an idea of confusion and desola- 
tion, the effects of some violent earthquake. The mountain is 
split and torn to pieces. Its sides and foot are strewed with in- 
numerable huge blocks of stone, detached from the impending 
ridge that form its bare summit. The passage through this rocky 
labyrinth opened to a magnificent amphitheatre. On the top, 
waved thick forest of firs, through which several streams forcing 
their way, washed down the lofty precipice, but almost vanished 
away in mist before they could reach the bottom. The field below 
was beautifully overspread with purple monkshood. 

Our morning's expedition ended at Garbarnie, where we found 
good accommodations prepared for us by a messenger we had des- 
patched the preceding day. This is a village consisting of a 
church and thirty houses, in the midst of bare hills, shaded by 
very high mountains, and traversed in several directions by foam- 
ing torrents. The curate partook of our dinner, after we had re- 
moved the table to the door of the inn; for he durst neither eat nor 
drink within the walls of a public house. We found him a modest 
conversable man, worthy of a richer settlement. 

After dinner, we travelled towards the head of the Gave, the 
object of our journey. We long had in view the snow-capped- 
cliffs from which its waters issue, but were surprised to find them 
still so distant from us. We spent an hour and a half in riding 
across a bare track of pasture, closed in with immense forests of 
evergreens, on the French side, along the Spanish frontier, which 
lies on the right hand, confined by bare, rocky mountains. This 
plain is called the Prade. The river follows a serpentine course 
through it In winter it is generally covered with snow, forty feet 
deep. 

Our guide having now brought us to his ne plus ultra, pressed 
us earnestly to alight, as no horse ever advanced beyond this pass. 
But as we were not contented with so distant a view, we rejected 
his timid advice, and clambering over several rocky eminences, 
plunged into the river, which by its limpidity deceived our eye, 
both as to the depth of the water, and the size of the rocks-at the 
bottom. It required our utmost exertions to extricate our horses, 
and bear them safe through to the opposite bank. This difficulty 
being overcome, all others appeared contemptible, and we soon 
reached the centre of a most stupendous amphitheatre. Three 
sides of it are formed by a range of perpendicular rocks: the forth 
is shaded with wood. Above the upright wall, which is of a 
horrible height, rise several stages of broken masses, each cov- 



fcELEBRATEJ) TRAVELLERS. 265 

ered with a layer of everlasting snow. The mountain eastward 
ends in sharp pinnacles, and rung off to the wost in one immense 
bank of snow. From these concealed heaps, the Gave derives its 
excellence. Thirteen streams rush down the mighty precipice, 
and unite their waters at its foot. 

The whole western corner of the area below is filled with a bed 
of snow, which being struck by few rays of the sun at any season, 
receives a sufficient volume of fresh snow every winter, to balance 
the loss occasioned by the warmth of the atmosphere in summer. 
Two of the torrents fall upon this extensive frozen surface. They 
have worn a huge chasm, and extending from it, a vaulted passage 
live hundred yards in length, through which their waters roll. 
We boldly rode over this extraordinary bridge, and alighting at 
the foot of the rocks, walked down the passage. The snow lies 
above it near twenty feet thick. The roof is about six feet above 
the ground, and finely turned in an arch, which appears as if it 
had been cut and chisseled by the hand of man. In some places 
there are columns and collateral galleries. The whole glittered 
like a diamond, and was beautifully pervaded by the light. The 
only inconvenience we felt, arose from the dripping occasioned by 
the extreme heat of the day, by which even this great body of 
snow was strongly affected. As we emerged with the river from 
this singular grotto, we unharboured three chamoy goats, that had 
taken refuge in the mouth of the cave, against the burning rays 
of noon. They darted across the plain, and ascended the steep- 
est parts of the rocks, where we soon lost sight of them. These 
animals are called Ysards in this country. They are rather smaller 
than the fallow deer, of a muddy reddish yellow colour, with 
snubbed noses, and short black horns. In shape they resemble a 
deer, walking with their head upright, and skipping away with 
admirable swiftness. But they do not bound; they run when at 
full stretch. No beast of the forest is of more difficult access. 
They seldom quit the highest and most inaccessible parts of the 
mountains. During the wintry storms they have been seen fixed 
in the brow of a precipice, with their faces towards the wind, 
probably to prevent the rain and snow from lodging under their 
hair. 

Notwithstanding their suspicious, wild nature, and their ex- 
treme velocity, the hardy mountaineers find means to destroy 
them. They lie out whole days and nights watching their oppor- 
tunity, and making good use of it when it offers; for they are ex- 
cellent marksmen. They have frequently as much difficulty in 
reaching the dead prey, as the approaching it while living. The 
flesh of the fsarflHs much esteemed. Its skin makes soft and use- 
ful gloves. 

The setting of the sun, roused us from the exstacy in which the 
contemplation of these awful scenes had enwraped every sense, and 
warned us to retire before the want of light should render those 



266 TflE FJ-OWERS OF 

passages doubly dangerous, which we had found very difficult, 
even in the glare of day. The sun sunk behind the snowy cliffs 
in admirable beauty, tinging the mountains with a rich variety 
of fiery hue, which died away into the most tender tints of 
purple. 

The mountains abound with game, the rivers with fish. Here 
are no lords of manorial rights, and therefore game is the property 
of every member of the community that can catch it. Except some 
tracts of wood reserved for the navy, all the forests are held in 
common. Swinburne. 



SECTION XCII. 

Of Portugal in General, the Produce of the Country, and 
the Customs and Manners of the People. 

THE kingdom of Portugal is situated to the west of Spain, 
from which it is separated on the north and the east, by the river 
Minho, and some small rivers and hills, on the south and west it 
is washed by the sea. Its whole extent from north to south, is 
three hundred miles, and its breadth from east to west, where 
broadest, is about one hundred and twenty. It is in the same climate 
with Spain, and as well as that country, is very mountainous; but 
the soil is in general worse, and never produces corn enough for 
the support of its inhabitants. As to wheat, it has always pro- 
duced less of that valu ble grain than what the people require. 
In the southern parts pasture is alwaj^s scarce, and the cattle small 
and lean, though the flesh is generally well-tasted. But to make 
amends for this want of corn and pasture, here are made vast quanti- 
ties of wine, which is indeed the best commodity of this kingdom. 
Oil is also made here in great abundance, but it is far inferior to that 
of Spain and Ital>. Lemons and oranges likewise grow here-, and 
are exported in great quantities, though the acidity of the latter 
is not near so pleasant as those that come from Seville; nor indeed 
are their raisins, figs, almonds, and chestnuts, either so large, or so 
well tasted as those of Spain. However, their sweet oranges, 
which they have introduced from China, and are thence called 
China oranges, are the best of the kind in Europe. Herbs and 
flowers of all sorts, are here commonly very good, and abundance 
of perfumed waters are distilled from those of the ordireferous kind, 
which are here in great request, they being used in almost every 
thing that is eat, drnk or worn. 

The woollen manufactures of this country, are so indifferent and 
coarse, that they are only worn by the meaner sort; and though 
their silks are in some places much better, they are far inferior in 
beauty and goodness, to those made in Spain. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 207 

The modern Portuguese retain nothing of that adventurous en- 
terprising spirit that rendered their forefathers so illustrious three 
hundred years ago. They have, ever since the house of Braganza 
mounted the throne, degenerated in all their virtues; though some 
noble exceptions are still remaining among them, and no people 
are so little obliged as the Portuguese are to the reports of histo- 
rians and travellers. The degeneracy is evidently owing to the 
weakness of their monarchy, which renders them inactive; and 
that inactivity has proved the source of pride, and other umranly 
vices. Treachery has been laid to their charge, as well as ingrati- 
tude, and above all, an intemperate passion for revenge. They 
are, if possible, more superstitious, and, both in high and common 
life, affect more state than the Spaniards themselves. Among the 
lower people, thieving is commonly practised; and all ranks are 
accused of being unfair in their dealings, especially with strangers. 
It is hard,, however, to say what alteration may be made in the 
character of the Portuguese, by the expulsion of the Jesuits, and 
the diminution of the papal influence among them, but above all, 
by that spirit of independency, with regard to commercial affairs, 
upon Great Britain, which, not much to the honour of their grati- 
tude, though to the interest of their own country, is now so much 
encouraged by their court and ministry. 

The Portuguese are neither so tall nor so well made as the 
Spaniards, whose habits and customs they imitate; only the quality 
affect to be more gaily and richly dressed. 

The women are mostly beautiful when young, though their 
complexion is inclinable to the olive; but the indiscreet use of 
paint renders their skins shrivelled as with old age, before they 
are turned of thirty. Their eyes, however, which are generally 
black and sparkling, retain their lustre after their other charms 
are withered. The quick decay of beauty is in some measure 
recompensed by the vivacity of their wit, in which they are said 
to excel the women of all other nations. They are extremely 
charitable and generous, and remarkable for their modesty* 

Spectacles are commonly worn here as well as in Spain, as a 
mark of age and gravity; for it is observable of these two nations, 
that old age, with a grave and solemn behaviour, procures such re- 
pect, that the young affect to imitate the solemnity of the old, 

Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is built upon seven hills, and is 
thought to contain 200,000 inhabitants. Some of the hills rise up 
above the rest; and some again are so interwoven and contrasted, 
that they form an agreeable diversity of hills and vales; so that, 
from the opposite side of the Tagus, it looks like an immense am- 
phitheatre, which has all the charms that can be produced by a 
variety of the most sumptuous edifices, reflecting uncommon^beau- 
ties upon each other by the happiness of their situation. Nor do 
the fine prospects of the country give less pleasure when they are 
viewed from the eminences in the city; for what can be a fines 



26S THE FLOWERS OF 

sight than a beautiful country, and such a river as the Tagus, cov- 
ered with forests of ships from all nations? Its situation certainly 
renders its appearance at once delightful and superb, and it is de- 
servedly accounted the greatest port in Europe, next to London 
and Amsterdam. 

The city, before the great earthquake, afforded a still nobler 
prospect when viewed from the river, than it does at present, on 
account of the gradual ascent of the buildings. But this dreadful 
earthquake, which began on the first of November, 1775, at about 
ten in the morning, laid the finest buildings of Lisbon in ruins, 
and reduced that city to a scene of the most terrible desolation. 
To complete the public distress, a fire soon after broke out and 
spread among the ruins; and by these disasters the King's Palace, 
the . Custom-House, St. Dominic's church, St. Nicholas's, and 
many Others, were either thrown down or consumed, together 
with a great number of private houses. But happily some whole 
streets escaped the general calamity, and were left standing entire. 

All that part of the city that was demolished by the earthquake, 
is now planned out in the most regular and commodious form. 
Some large squares and many streets are already built. The 
streets form right angles, and are broad and spacious. The houses 
are lofty, elegant and uniform; and, being built of white stone, 
make a beautiful appearance. 

The air here is so soft, and the sky so clear, that it is quite de- 
licious; which joined to the excellence of the water, makes the 
inhabitants so extremely healthy, but they have the happiness of 
living to a very great age, without being oppressed with infirmi- 
ties, and continually attacked by fresh disorders, as is usual in 
other climates. The climate is so temperate, that they have roses 
and many other sorts of flowers in the winter. 

The second city in this kingdom is Oporto, which is computed 
to contain 70,000 inhabitants, The chief article of commerce in 
this city is wine; and the inhabitants of half the shops in the citv 
are coopers. The merchants assemble daily in the chief street, to 
transact business, and are protected from the sun by sail cloths 
hung across from the opposite houses. A bout thirtv English fami- 
lies reside here, who are chiefly concerned in the wine trade. 

Tour through Portugal. 



SECTION XCI11. 

Of Norway, and Bergen its Capital. 

THE climate of Norway is much more various than in most 
other European countries. In the summer nights, the horizon, 
when unclouded, is so clear and luminous, that at midnight one 
may read, write, and do all kinds of work as in the day; and in 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 269 

the extremity of this country, towards the islands of Finmark, the 
sun is continually in view in the midst of summer, and is observed 
to circulate day and night round the north pole, contracting its or- 
bit, and then gradually enlarging it, till at length it leaves the ho- 
rizon. On the other hand, in the depth of winter, the sun is in- 
visible for some weeks; all the light perceived at noon being a 
faint glimmering of about an hour and a half continuance; which, 
as the sun never appears above the horizon, chiefly proceeds from 
the reflection of the rays on the highest mountains, whose summits 
are seen more clearly than any other objects. But the wise and 
bountiful Creator has granted the inhabitants all possible assistance; 
for besides the moon-shine, which by reflection from the mountains 
is exceedingly bright in the valleys, the people receive considera- 
ble relief from the Aurora Borealis, or northern lights, which 
often afford them all the light necessary to their ordinary labours. 
On the east side of Norway? the cold of winter generally sets in 
about the middle of October, and lasts till the middle of April. 
The waters are congealed to a thick ice, and the mountains and 
valleys are covered with snow. However, this is of such import- 
ance to the welfare of the country, that, in a mild winter, the 
peasants who live among the mountains are considerable sufferers; 
for without this severe frost and snow, they can neither convey the 
timber they have felled, to the rivers, nor carry their corn, butter, 
furs, and other commodities, in their sledges to the market towns; 
and after the sale of them, carry back the necessaries they are sup- 
plied with. For the largest rivers, with their roaring cataracts, 
are arrested in their course by the frost, and the very spittle is no 
sooner out of the mouth than it is congealed, and rolls along the 
ground like hail. But the wise Creator has given the inhabitants 
of this cold climate a greater variety of preservatives against, the 
weather, than most other countries afford. Extensive forests sup- 
ply them with plenty of timber for building, and for fuel. The 
wool of the sheep, and the furs and skins of wild beasts, furnish 
them with warm lining for their clothes, and covering for their 
beds. Innumerable flights of wild fowl supply them with do'wn 
and feathers. The mountains themselves serve them for fe" '.es 
against the north and east winds, and their caverns afford tliem 
shelter. 

In the summer months, the weather is not only warm, but very 
hot. These violent heats, which are, however, of short duration, 
may be partly derived from the valleys being inclosed within high 
mountains, where the reverberation of the rays of the sun on ail 
sides, heats the air; and as there is but little night, neither the at- 
mosphere nor the mountains have time to cool. Indeed, there 
cannot be a more decisive proof of the summer's heat in Norway, 
than that several vegetables, (and particularly barley) grow up and 
ripen within six weeks or two months. 



270 THE FLOWEKS OF 

The air is pure and salubrious, especially in the middle of the 
country about the mountains, where the inhabitants know little of 
sickness. Physicians are only to be found in the chief towns, 
where they are established with a public salary, but have generally 
very little employment. 

Norway contains a vast number of mountains, some of which 
extend themselves in a long chain from north to south, while 
others are scattered about and surrounded by a level country, 

The inhabitants of a mountainous country may be said to labour 
under more inconveniences than others. Thus the arable ground 
is here but little in comparison of the wastes and deserts; which 
obliges the inhabitants to procure half their subsistence from the 
sea. The villages are small, and the houses scattered among the 
valleys. But in some places the peasants' houses stand so high, 
and on the edge of steep precipices, that ladders are fixed to clixdj 
up to them; so that when a clergyman is sent for, who is unprac- 
tised in the road, he risks his life in ascending them, especially in 
winter, when the ways are slippery. In such places the bodies of 
the dead must be let down with ropes, or be brought on people's 
backs before they are laid in the coffin; and, at some distance from 
Bergen, the mail must likewise, in winter, be drawn over the 
steepest mountains. 

Another evil resulting from the mountains, is the shelter they 
afford in their caverns and clefts to the wild beasts, which renders 
it difficult to extirpate them. It is not easy to describe the havoc 
made by the lynxes, foxes, bears, and especially wolves, among 
the cattle, goats, hares, and other useful animals. 

Another evil is, that the cows, sheep, and goats, belonging to 
the peasants, often fall down the precipices and are destroyed. 
Sometimes they make a false step into a projection, called a moun- 
tain hammer, where they can neither ascend nor descend. On this 
occasion a peasant cheerfully ventures his life for a sheep or a goat, 
and descending from the top of a mountain by a rope of some hun- 
dred fathoms in length, he slings his body on a cross stick, till he 
can set his foot on the place where his goat is, when he fastens it 
to the rope to be drawn up along with himself. But the most 
amazing circumstance is, that he runs this risk with only the help 
of a single person, who holds the end of the rope, or fastens it to a 
stone, if there be one at hand. There are instances of the assist- 
ant himself having been dragged down, and sacrificing his life 
from fidelity to his friend, b}^ which both have perished. On 
these melancholy accidents, when man or beast falls some hundred 
fathoms down the precipices, it is observed, that the air presses 
with such force against their bodies thus falling, that they are not 
only deprived of life long before they reach the ground, but their 
bellies burst, and their entrails gush out, which is plainly the case 
when they fall into deep water. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 271 

The country produces wheat, rye, barley, white, grey, and 
green peas; vetches, used as provender for horses; hops, flax, and 
hemp; many kinds of roots and greens for the kitchen, with a 
considerable number of hardy flowers. In Norway, as well as in 
Denmark, are several kinds of cherries, of which the peasants sell 
great quantities dried. There are also many sorts of wholesome 
and well tasted berries, as red and white currants, sunberries, 
raspberries, red and white gooseberries, barberries, bilberries, 
cranberries, strawberries, blackberries, and many other kinds. 
Several sorts of plums attain to a tolerable ripeness, which can 
very seldom be said of peaches, apricots, or grapes. However, 
apples and pears of several kinds are found all over the country; 
but the greatest part of these are summer fruits, which ripen early; 
for the winter fruit seldom comes to perfection, unless the sum- 
mer proves hotter; and the winter sets in later than usual. 

But though, with respect to fruit trees, Norway must be ac- 
knowledged inferior to most countries in Europe, yet this defi- 
ciency is liberally compensated in the blessings of inexhaustible 
forests; so that in most provinces, immense sums are received from 
foreigners for masts, beams, planks, boards, &c. not to mention 
the home consumption for houses built entirely of beams of wood, 
ships, bridges, and an infinite number of founderies, which require 
an immense quantity of charcoal in the fusion of metals, besides 
the demands for fuel and other domestic uses; to which must be 
added, that in many places the woods are felled only to clear the 
ground and be burnt, the ashes serving for manure. 

Bergen, the capital of Norway, has one of the finest ports in 
Europe, and is divided into the upper and lower town, the one 
built on the rocks, and the other on the sea shore. Tt is a large 
trading town, full of merchants, and was formerly an archbi- 
shopric; but has not been acknowledged such since the reforma- 
tion. The archbishop's palace was given to the Hans Towns, for 
their ancient merchants to live in, and the greatest part of the 
houses were turned into warehouses, which still bear the name of 
cloisters, and the merchants are called monks, though they do not 
wear a cowl, nor observe the rules of any order. The king has, 
however, obliged them so far to keep up the form of a religious 
house, that none of the merchants who live in it are allowed to 
marry without removing. The principal branch of trade carried 
on at Bergen, is in herrings, cod, and stock fish, for which there is 
a great vent in Muscovy, Sweden, Poland, Denmark, Germany, 
Holland, and other parts of Europe. Bishop op Bergen, 



272 THE FLOWERS OF 



SECTION XCIV 



Of the Persons, Dress, Employments, and Customs of the 
Inhabitants of Norway. 

THE Norwegians arc generally tall, well made, and lively; yet 
those on the coast arc neither so tall nor so robust as those who in 
habit the mountains; but are remarkable for being fatter, and hav- 
ing rounder faces. The people in general are brisk and ingenious; 
which appears from the peasants not employing any hatters, shoe- 
makers, tailors, tanners, weavers, carpenters, smiths, or joiners: 
for all these trades are exercised in every farm house; and they 
think a boy can never be a useful member of society, nor a good 
man, without making himself master of all these arts. They are 
remarkable for their civility and willingness to serve every one, 
and a traveller is seldom suffered to pay for his lodging; for they 
think it their duty to treat the stranger as well as ,it is in their 
power, and look upon it as an honour done them, if he accepts of 
their civilities. The peasant, however, never gives the upper end 
of the table to the greatest guest that ever comes under his roof: 
for he thinks that place belongs only to himself. 

They keep open house for three weeks at Christmas, during 
which their tables are spread and loaded with the best provisions 
they can afford. At Christmas eve, their hospitality extends to 
the very birds; and, for their use, they hang on a pole at the barn 
door, an unthreshed sheaf of corn, which draws thither the spar- 
rows and other small birds. 

The inhabitants of the trading towns live, with respect to pro- 
visions, much in the same manner as the Danes; but the peasants 
keep close to the manner of their forefathers. Thin oat cakes are 
their common bread; but upon particular occasions, as weddings 
or entertainments, they have rye bread. If grain be scarce, which 
generally happens after a severe winter, the peasants have recourse 
to a disagreeable method of preserving life, by boiling and drying 
the bark of fir trees, mixing it with a little oat meal, and making it 
into a kind of bread. Even in times of plenty they eat a little of 
it, that they may think it less disagreeable in a time of scarcity. 

The lakes and rivers furnish the people with plenty of fresh 
water fish, and the mountains with game. For their winter stock 
they kill cows, sheep, and goats; part of which they pickle and 
smoke, and some of it they cut into thin slices, sprinkle it with 
salt, then dry it in the wind, and eat it like hung beef. They are 
fond of brandy, and of smoaking and chewing tobacco. 

The Norwegians who live in towns, have nothing remarkable 
in their dress; but the peasants do not trouble themselves about 
fashions. Those called strile-farmers, have their breeches and 
stockings of one piece. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 273 

They have a wild loose jacket, made of coarse woollen cloth, 
as are also their waistcoats: and those who would appear fine, 
have the seams covered with cloth of a different colour. The 
peasants of one parish are remarkable for wearing black clothes 
edged with red; another for wearing all black. The dress of an- 
other parish, is white edged with black. Others wear black and 
yellow. And thus the inhabitants of almost every parish vary in 
the colour of their clothes. They wear a Happed hat, or a little 
brown, grey or black cap, made quite round, and the seams orna- 
mented with black ribbons. They have shoes of a peculiar con- 
struction, without heels, consisting of two pieces; the upper leather 
fits close to the foot, to which the sole is joined by a great many 
plaits and folds. When they travel, and in the winter, they wear 
a sort of half boots that reach up to the calf of the leg, and are 
iaced on one side; and when they go on the rocks in the snow, 
they put on snow shoes. But as these are troublesome when they 
have a great way to travel, they put on skaits about as broad as the 
foot, but six or eight feet long, and pointed before. They are 
covered underneath with seal-skin, so that the smooth grain of 
the hair turns backward to the heel. With these snow skaits they 
slide about on the snow as well as they can upon the ice, and 
faster than any horse. 

The peasant never wears .a neckcloth, or any thing of that kind, 
except when he is dressed; for his neck and breast are always 
open, and he lets the snow beat into his bosom. On the contrary, 
he covers his veins, binding a woollen fillet round his wrists. 
About their body they wear a broad leathern belt, ornamented 
with convex brass plates: to this hangs a brass chain, which holds 
their large knife, gimblet and other tackle. 

The women at church, and in genteel assemblies, dress them- 
selves in jackets laced close, arid have leathern girdles, with silver 
ornaments about them. They also wear a silver chain three or four 
times round the neck, with a gilt medal hanging at the end of it. 
Their handkerchiefs and caps are almost covered with small silver, 
brass, and tin-plates, buttons, and large rings, such as they wear 
on their fingers,' to which they hang again a parcel of small ones, 
which make a jingling noise when they move. A maiden-bride 
has her hair plaited, and hung as full as possible with such kind of 
trinkets, as also her clothes. For this purpose, they get all the 
ornaments they can. s >n- i 

The peasants are generally busied in cutting wood, felling and 
floating timber, bu vning charcoal, and extricating tar. Great num- 
bers are employed in the mines, and at the furnaces and stamping 
mills; and also in navigation and fishing, besides hunting and 
shooting; for every bi ">dy is at liberty to pursue the game, especially 
in the mountains, w.tere every peasant may make use of what 
arms he pleases. Bishop of Bekgen. 

35 



274 THE FLOWERS OF 

SECTION XCV. 
Of the Houses of the Norwegians. 

THEIR houses are, in general, built of fir and pine, trees, the 
whole trunks of which are only chopped even to make them lie 
close, and then laid one upon another, and fastened with mortices 
at the corners. These trunks are left round as they grow, both 
on the inside and outside of the houses, and are frequently 
boarded over and painted, especially in the trading towns; which 
gives them a genteel appearance. 

In the country villages the houses are built at a distance from 
each other, with their fields and grounds about them. The store- 
house for the provisions is generally at a distance from the 
dwelling-house, for fear of fire, and placed high upon poles, to 
keep the provisions dry, and preserve them from mice and all 
kinds of vermin. The kitchen stands also separate, as do the 
barns, hay-lofts, cow-houses, stables, and the like. A farm has 
likewise commonly a mill belonging to it, situated by some rivu- 
let, besides a smith's forge; for every farmer, as hath been ob- 
served, is his own smith. Up the - country, where timber for 
building is but of little value, there is many a farm-house as large 
as a nobleman's seat. It is frequently two stories high, and has a 
raised balcony in front. The additional buildings resemble a little 
village. The common farm-houses have, however, only the 
ground floor, and no other window but a square hole in the wall, 
which is left open in summer; but in winter, or in wet weather, 
is filled up with a wooden frame, covered with the inward mem- 
brane of some animal. This is very strong, and as transparent as 
a bladder. This hole, which is as high as it can be placed, also 
answers the purpose of a chimney, by serving to let out the 
smoke. 

Under the light-hole, generally stands a long thick table, with 
benches of the same wood, and at the upper end is the high seat, 
which belongs to the master only. In towns these houses are cov- 
ered with tiles; but in the" country, the people lay over the boaids 
the sappy bark of birch-trees, which will not decay in many 
years. They cover this again three or four inches thick with 
turf, on which good grass always grows. 

Bisrop of Bjekgen, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 215 

SECTION XCVL 

Of the Jlnimals of Norway. 

AMONG the animals, we shall begin with the horses, which 
are better for riding than drawing Their walk is easy, they are 
full of spirit, and are very sure-footed. When they mount or de- 
scend a steep cliff, on stones like steps, they first tread gently 
with one foot, to try if the stone they touch be fast; and in this 
they must be left to themselves, or the best rider will run the risk 
of his neck. But when they are to go down a very steep and slip- 
pery place, they, in a surprising manner, draw their hind legs to- 
gether under them, and slide down. They show a great deal of 
courage in fighting with the wolves and bears, which they are often 
obliged to do; for when the horse perceives any of them near him, 
and has a mare or gelding with him, he places them behind him, 
attacks his antagonist by striking at him with his fore legs, and 
usually comes off conqueror. 

The Norway cows are generally of a yellow colour, as are also 
the horses. They are small, but their flesh is fine grained, juicy, 
and well tasted. 

The sheep here are small, and resemble those of Denmark. The 
goats, in many places, run wild, winter and summer, in the fields, 
till they are ten to twelve years old; and when the peasant, who 
owns them, is to catch them, he must either do it by some snare or 
shoot them. They are so bold, that if a wolf approaches them, 
they stay to receive him, and if they have dogs with them, they 
will resist a whole herd. They frequently attack the snakes, and 
when they are bit by them, not only kill their antagonists, out 
eat them; after which they are never known to die of the bjte, 
though they are ill for several days. The owner warms their own 
milk, and washes the sore with it. 

Near Rostad, is a flat and naked field, on which no vegetable 
will grow. The soil is almost white, with grey stripes, and has 
somewhat of so peculiarly poisonous a nature, that though all other 
animals may safely pass over it, a goat or a kid no sooner sets its 
foot upon it, than it drops down, stretches out ils leg, its tongue 
hangs out of its mouth, and it expires if it has not instant help. 

There are few hogs in Norway, and not many of the common 
deer; but the hares, which in the cold season change from brown 
or grey to a snow white, are very cheap in winter. 

The hurtful beasts are the bears and wolves, the lynx, vast num- 
bers of white, red, and biack foxes, and the glutton, a creature 
which few other countries know any otherwise than by report. 
This animal receives its name from its voracious appetite. In 
size and shape he has some resemblance to a long bodied dog, with 
*Jhick legs, sharp claws and teeth. His colour is black, variegated 



276 THE FLOWERS OF 

with brown and yellowish streaks. He has the boldness to attack 
every beast he can possibly conquer; and if he linds a carcase six 
times as big as himself, he does not leave off eating as long as there 
is a mouthful left. When thus gorged, he presses and squeezes 
himself between two trees that stand near together, and thus emp- 
ties himself of what he has not time to digest. As his skin shines 
like damask, and is covered with soft hair, it is very precious. It 
is therefore well worth the huntsman's while to kill him without 
wounding his skin, which is done by shooting him with a bow^and 
blunt arrows. 

The martin is also hunted on account of its skin, as are likewise 
the squirrel and the ermine, both of which are therefore shot with 
blunt arrows. I am in doubt whether the ermine be different in 
kind from the Danish weasel. Its valuable skin is of a beautiful 
white, and it has a black spot on the tail. The ermines run after 
mice like cats, and drag away what they catch, particularly eggs, 
which are their nicest delicacy. 

As to the reptiles, there are neither land snakes nor toads beyond 
the temperate zone; and even those snakes on the extremities of 
the temperate climate are less poisonous than in more southern 
countries. Lizards are here of various colours, as brown, green, 
and striped. Those that are green are found in the fields, and the 
others in the cracks and holes of rocks. 

Among the fowls are most of those seen in the rest of Europe, 
and some that seem peculiar to this country; of which last, the 
most remarkable is the francolin, an excellent land bird, which 
serves the Norwegians instead of the pheasant, its flesh being 
White, firm, and of a delicious taste. 

In short, there are here such incredible numbers of sea and land 
fowls near the rocks on the sea shore, that they sometimes obscure 
the aight of the heavens for many miles out at sea; so that one 
would imagine all the fowls of the universe were gathered together 
in one flock. Bishop of Bergen^ 



SECTION XCVI1. 

Of Lapland. 

WE took a journey from the town of Varanger into the coun- 
try of Lapland, to try whether any trade could be carried on with 
the peasants there. Setting out early in the morning, we took 
with us some cloth and tobacco^o trade with, and salt beef and pork 
for our provisions. We engaged three of the inhabitants of Va- 
ranger to attend us, both to shew us the way, and to help to carry 
our goods and provisions to the next village. We followed them 
through woods, mountains, and valleys, without meeting any liv- 
ing creature, till about 4 o'clock in the afternoon, when we perceiv- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 277 

ed two white bears of a prodigious size approach, as we thought, to 
devour us; but our guides, observing the terror we were in, bid us 
not be afraid, but only to have our arms ready for defence, in case 
they approached too near us. Upon which we cocked and primed 
our pieces, and prepared our flints. But whether the bears were 
frightened at the fire which struck from our flints, or smelt our 
powder, they soon fled away so fast, that they were presently out 
of sight. 

As we Were descending a mountain about an hour before night, 
we perceived at the foot of it a dozen houses at a considerable dis- 
tance from each other, and a little beyond them a herd of beasts 
like stags, which our guides told us were reindeer. On our ar- 
rival at the village, our guides conducted us to a hut, when being 
very weary, we were glad to rest ourselves; for we had made a 
long journey in a very bad way, with our luggage on our backs, 
which tired and encumbered us. 

We presented our host with a piece of roll tobacco, and he re- 
ceived it with extraordinary joy, assuring us, he had not had so 
valuable a present in nine months before; and in return he brought 
out his brandy bottle, some reindeer's flesh dressed without salt- 
ing, and some dried fish, which we gave to our guides, and supped. 
ourselves upon the provisions we had brought with us. Having 
made a hearty meal, we went to sleep upon bears' skins, after the 
fashion of the country. 

In the morning we asked our host if he had nothing to barter 
with us for cloth and tobacco. To which he answered, that he 
had some skins of wolves, foxes, and white squirrels, and that his 
neighbours had some of the same commodities, which they would 
gladly exchange with us. We bid them, by our interpreters, bring 
out his skins; and if he had any clothes made of reindeer skins, 
we told him we would deal with him for four suits, which we 
wanted to keep us warm. Accordingly he brought forth his mer- 
chandize, which" we bought, and paid him part in tobacco, and 
part in cloth. We also trucked with his neighbours, as long as 
they had any thing worth buying. 

Travels through Laflajtp-. 



SECTION XCVIII. 

The manner of Travelling in Sledges drawn by Reindeer., 

BEING desirous of continuing our journey, we begged our host 
to lend us some reindeer to carry us farther up the country, to 
which he readily consented; and taking down a horn that hung up 
in his cottage, went out and blew it. Uy*on which fourteen or 
fifteen of those animals came running towardls the hut, six of which 
he immediately yoked to six sledges. In one of them we put our 



■1*78 • THK KLOWEUS OF 

merchandise and provisions; another we assigned to one of our 
guides who understood the language of the Muscovite Laplanders, 
and that of the Kilops, dismissing the two other inhabitants of Va- 
ranger, after having first paid them in tobacco for their trouble. 
We then put on our Lapland clothes, and each of us lying down 
In his sledge, was covered with a bears' 3kin. At the back of the 
sledge were two girths made of reindeer skin leather, in which we 
thrust our arms up to the shoulders, to keep ourselves steady; and 
we had each a stick with a strong ferrule, in order to support the 
sledge, if it should be in danger of overturning against the stumps 
of trees, or stones lying in the way. 

We were no sooner ready to set out, than our host muttered 
some words in the ear of the reindeer; and when I afterwards in- 
quired of the guide what he meant by it, he gravely replied, with 
the utmost simplicity, that it was to tell them whither they should 
earry us. Custom, however, had made this muttering so familiar 
to them, that when our host had gone to all the six, they set oil 
with amazing swiftness, and continued their pace over hills and 
dales without keeping any beaten bath, till seven o'clock in the 
evening; when they brought us to a large village situated between 
two mountains, on the borders of a great lake. Stopping at the 
fourth house in the place, and beating the ground with their feet, 
the master of the house came with some of his servants to take us 
out of the sledges, and unharness our cattle, one of them bringing 
out a little juniper can filled with brandy, of which he gave each 
of us a brimmer out of a larger vessel that was also made of jflh'iper ' 
wood. This it seems was to revive our spirits, our guide having 
informed him, that we were frightened at our being drawn so 
swiftly by these animals, having never been used to that way of 
travelling. 

The reindeer is of the colour of the stag, and is not much bigger. 
The horns of this animal are somewhat higher than those of the 
stag, but more crooked, hairy, and not so well furnished with 
branches. Of the milk of the females they make good butter and 
cheese. These animals, indeed, constitute the greatest, and almost 
the only riches of the Fin-Laplanders. In Finmark, there are vast 
numbers of them both wild and tame, and many a man there has 
from six or eight hundred to a thousand of these useful creatures, 
which never come under cover. They follow him wherever he is 
pleased to ramble, and when they are put to a sledge, transport his 
goc Is from one place to another. They provide for themselves, 
and live chiefly on moss, and on the buds and leaves of trees. They 
support themselves on very little nourishment, and are neat, clean, 
and entertaining creatures. 

It is remarkable, that when the reindeer sheds his horns, and 
others rise in their stead, they appear at first covered with a skin; 
and till they are of a finger's length, are so soft that they may be 
cut with a knife like a sausage, and are delicate eating, even raw: 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. . 219. 

therefore the huntsmen, when far out in the country, and pinched 
for want of food, eat them, and find that they satisfy both their 
hunger and thirst. When the horn grows bigger, there breeds 
within the skin a worm which eats away the root. 

The reindeer has over his eyelids a kind of skin, through which 
he peeps,swhen otherwise, in the hard snows, he would be obliged 
to shut his eyes entirely; a singular instance of the benevolence of 
the great Creator, in providing for the wants of each creature, ac- 
cording to its destined manner of living. 

When we got out of our sledges, our host conducted us into his 
hut, which, like the rest of the cottages in the place, was very little, 
low, and covered with the bark of trees, the light entering in at a 
hole at the top. The people here were clothed much like those of 
Varanger, their apparel being of the same materials and make, but 
longer. The women were also dressed in reindeer skins, with the 
hair outwards. 

We gave our host a piece of our roll tobacco, about two inches 
long, with which he was highly pleased, and in the most hearty 
manner returned us his thanks. We also gave a piece, not quite 
so long, to each of the inhabitants of the place, to make them our 
friends, and the better to secure ourselves against their attempts; 
for they seemed more uncivilized than those we last dealt with. 
We again supped on the provisions we had brought with us, and 
our guide ate some of our host's salt fish and fresh reindeer veni- 
son. The inhabitants talked a language very different from that 
used at Varanger: but our guide had been often in the country, and 
understood them. Travels through Lapland. 



SECTION XCIX. 

The Ceremonies of a Lapland Funeral. 

OUR landlord asked us whether we would accompany him to 
flhe funeral of one of his neighbours, who had been dead about four 
hours. We were glad of this opportunity of seeing their funeral 
ceremony, and therefore went with him to the house of the de- 
ceased; when we saw the corpse taken from the bears' skins on 
which it lay, and removed into a wooden coffin, by six of his most 
intimate friends, the body being first wrapped in linen, and the 
face and hands only left bare. In one hand they put a purse ~vith 
money in it, to pay the fee of the porter of the gate of Paradise, 
and in the other a certificate signed by a priest, directed to St. Pe- 
ter, to certify that he was a good christian, and ought to be admit- 
ted into heaven. At the head of the coffin was placed a picture o.i 
St. Nicholas, who was one of the seven deacons mentioned in the 
Acts of the Apostles, a saint greatly reverenced in all parts of 
Muscovy, where is supposed to be a particular friend of the desfek 



280 " THU FLO\V£K'S OK 

On which account his picture is always fixed near a corpse, instead 
of a crucifix. He is represented in a pilgrim's habit) with a long 
robe, a broad girdle about his waist, and a staff in his hand. 

They also put into the coffin a rundlct of brandy, some dried 
fish and reindeer venison, to support the deceased on his fourney 
They then lighted some fir tree roots; piled up at a convenient dis- 
tance from the coffin, wept, howled, and made, a variety of strange 
gestures, assuming a thousand different attitudes, to show the ex- 
travagance of their sorrow. 

When this noise, and these gesticulations were over, they 
marched round the corpse several times in procession, asking the 
deceased why he died? Whether he was angry with his wife? 
Whether he stood in need of meat, drink, or clothes? Whether lie 
had not succeeded when fishing, or had lost his game when hunt- 
ing? They then resumed their howling, and stamped with all the 
ugns of distraction. 

One of the priests who assisted at the solemnity frequently 
sprinkled holy water upon the corpse, as did all the mourners. 

Being now almost deafened with noise, and wearied with look- 
ing on these barbarous rites, we left our landlord behind us, and 
returned to his cottage, where we found his wife at home. She 
had made a sally from the place in which her husband had con- 
lined her on our arrival, and no sooner saw us, than supposing he 
was in our company, she would have retired to her corner; but our 
interpreter letting her know that the good man was at the funeral, 
and would not return for some time, she staid and viewed us all 
round, one after another, drew her seat near us, and showed us a 
bonnet of her own embroidering, very curiously performed with 
tinsel thread. The wives of the Muscovite Laplanders make 
clothes for themselves, their husbands, and their children, and at 
the edges they are all embroidered with that thread. She was 
handsome, well shaped, and appeared to be good humoured, and 
well pleased with us. 

While our host was busied about the funeral, we pulled out some 
-if our provisions, and gave our landlady some of every sort to 
taste. She liked them all, especially the gingerbread; but bavins 
drank two or three glasses of brandy, withdrew to her place of 
confinement, for fear of her husband's return. Had he found her 
among us, it would have raised his jealousy. 

When He came home, he obliged us to take a cup or two more, 
to smoke a pipe, and to sup with him; for he brought such provi- 
sions as he thought would be most grateful to our palates, particu- 
larly salt butter, which we eat with bread; and as our guide would 
not taste any thing that was salt, he got him some dried fish, and 
some bear's flesh, which he broiled on the coals. 

All the cottages in this village were, like those we observed in 
other places, built of wood, and covered with turf, but they were 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 281 

handsomer than any we had yet seen, being both within and with- 
out adorned with fish bones, curiously inlaid. 

Travels through Lapland. 



SECTION C. 

Of the intense Cold experienced by some Gentlemen, sent by 
the King of France, to determine the Figure of the Earth 
at the Polar Circle. 

In order to ascertain the distance between the two signals we 
had erected last summer, we were under the necessity of being 
upon the ice of a river in Lapland, at the distance of above three 
leagues, in a country where the cold was every day growing more 
intense. On the 21st of December this work was begun. In this 
season the sun but just shewed itself above the horizon towards 
noon; but the long twilights, the whiteness of the snow, and the 
meteors continually blazing in the sky, furnished us light enough 
to work four or five hours every day. 

We lodged at the house of the curate of Oswer Tornea, and at 
eleven in the forenoon began our survey, attended by so great an 
equipage, that the Laplanders, drawn by the novelty of the sight, 
came down from the neighbouring mountains. We separated into 
two bands, each of which carried our rods of fir, each thirty feet 
long. I shall say nothing of the fatigues and dangers of this ope- 
ration. Judge what' it must be to walk in snow two feet deep, 
with heavy poles in our hands, which we were obliged to be con- 
tinually laying on the snow, and lifting again; in a cold so ex- 
treme, that whenever we would taste a little brandy, the only 
thing that could be kept liquid, our tongues and lips froze to the 
cup, and came away bloody; in a cold that congealed the fingers 
of some of us, and threatened us with still more dismal accidents. 
While the extremities of our bodies were thus freezing, the rest, 
through excessive toil, was bathed in sweat. Brandy did not 
quench our thirst; we must have recourse to deep wells dug 
through the ice, which were shut almost as soon as opened, and 
from which the water could scarcely be conveyed unfrozen to our 
lips. Thus were we forced to run the hazard of the dangerous 
contrast which ice water might produce in our heated bodies. 

Our work, however, advanced apace; for six days' labour brought 
it to within about five hundred toises, where we had not been able 
to plant our stakes soon enough. Three of the gentlemen, there- 
fore, undertook this office, while the Abbe Outhier and I went 
upon a pretty extraordinary adventure. 

We had last summer omitted an observation of small moment. 
This was taking the height of an object that we made use of in 
measuring the top of Avasaxa; and to perform this, I undertook 
36 



282 THE FLOWERS OF 

to go with a quadrant to the top of the mountain: so scrupulously- 
careful were we that nothing should be wanting to the perfection 
of the work. Imagine a very high mountain, full of rocks, that 
lie hid in a prodigious quantity of snow, as well as their cavities, 
wherein you may sink into a crust of snow as into an abyss; and 
the undertaking will scarce appear possible. Yet there are two 
ways of performing it; one by walking, or rather sliding: along 
upon two straight boards, eight feet in length, which the Finland- 
ers and Laplanders used, to keep them from sinking into the snow. 
But this way of walking requires long practice. The other is by 7 
trusting yourself to a reindeer used to such journeys. 

The first part of our journey was performed in a moment; for 
our flight over the plain beaten road from the curate's house to 
the foot of the mountain, can be compared only to that of birds, 
And though the mountain, where there was no track, greatly abat- 
ed the speed of our reindeer, they got at length to the top of it, 
where we immediately made the observation for which we came. 
In the mean while, our reindeer had dug deep holes in the snow, 
where they browzed on the moss that covers the rocks; and the 
Laplanders had lighted a great fire, and we presently joined them 
to warm ourselves. The cold was so extreme, that the heat of the 
fire could reach only to a veiy small distance. As the snow just 
by it melted, it was immediately froze again, forming a hearth of 
ice all round, 

?"T journey up hill had been painful; but now our concern was, 
least our return should be too rapid. We were to proceed down 
the steep in conveyances, which, though partly sunk in the snow, 
slid on, notwithstanding, drawn by animals, whose fury in the 
plain we had already tried, and who, though sinking to their bel- 
lies in the snow, would endeavour to free themselves by the swift- 
ness of their flight. We very soon found ourselves at the bottom 
of the hill. The next day we finished our survey, and made all 
possible haste back to Tornea, to secure ourselves in the best man- 
ner we were able from the increasing severity of the season. 

The town of Tornea, at our arrival on the 30th of December, 
had really a most frightful aspect. Its little houses were buried 
to the tops in snow, which, had there been any day-light, must 
have effectually shut it out. But the snow continually falling, or 
ready to fall, for the most part hid the sun the few moments he 
might have appeared at mid-day. 

In the month of January, the cold was increased to that extre-* 
mity, that Mr. Reaumur's mercurial thermometers, which at Paris, 
in the great frost of 1709, it was thought strange to see fall to 14 
degrees below the freezing point, were now got down to 37. The 
spirits of wine in the others was frozen. If we opened the door of 
a warm room, the external air instantly converted all the vapour 
in it into snow, whirling it round in white vortexes. If we went 
abroad, we felt as if the air was tearing our breasts in pieces; and 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 28$ 

the cracking of the wood, of which the houses are built, as if it 
split by the violence of the frost, continually alarmed us with an 
increase of cold. The solitude of the streets was as great as if the 
people had been all dead. In this country you may often see peo- 
ple who have lost an arm or a leg by the frost. The cold, which 
is always very great, sometimes increases by such violent and sud- 
den fits, as are almost infallibly fatal to those who are so unhappy 
as to be exposed to it; and sometimes there rise sudden tempests 
of snow, which are still more dangerous. 

The winds seem to blow from all quarters at once, and drive 
about the snow with such fury, that all the roads are in a moment 
rendered invisible. Dreadful is the situation of a person surprised 
in the fields by such a storm. His knowledge of the country, and 
even the marks he may have taken by the trees, cannot avail him. 
He is blinded by the snow, and if he attempts to find his way 
home, is generally lost. 

In short, during the whole winter, the cold was so excessive, 
that on the 7th of April, at five in the morning, the thermometer 
was fallen to twenty divisions below the point of freezing, though 
every afternoon it rose two or three divisions above it; a diffe- 
rence in the height not much less than that which the greatest heat 
and cold felt at Paris usually produce in that instrument. Thus, 
in the space of twenty-four hours, we had all the variety felt in the 
temperate zones in the compass of a whole year. 

Maupertuis, 



SECTION CI. 

Of the Beauty of the Northern Lights in Lapland. 

THOUGH in this climate the earth is horrible, the heavens 
present most beautiful prospects. The short days are no sooner 
closed, than fires of a thousand colouis and figures light up the sky, 
as if designed to compensate for the absence of the sun in this 
season. These fires have not here, as in the more southerly cli- 
mates, any constant situation. Though a luminous arch is often 
seen fixed towards the north, they seem more frequently to pos- 
sess the whole extent of the hemisphere. Sometimes they begin 
in the form of a great scarf of bright light, with its extremities 
upon the horizon, which, with amotion resembling that of a fish- 
ing net, glides swiftly up the sky, preserving in this motion a di- 
rection nearly perpendicular to the meridian; and most commonly 
after those preludes, all the lights unite at the zenith, and form the 
top of a kind of crown. Arcs, like those seen in France toward 
the north, are here frequently situated towards the south, and often 
towards both the north and south at once. Their summits ap- 
proach each other, and the distance of their extremities widens t©«= 



284 THE FLOWEltS OF 

wards the horizon. I have seen some of' the opposite arcs, whose 
summits almost join at the zenith; and both the one and the other 
have frequently several concentric arcs beyond it. Their tops are 
all placed in the direction of the meridian, though with a little de- 
clination to the west, which I did not find to be constant, and 
which is sometimes sensible. 

It would be endless to mention all the different figures these me- 
teors assume, and the various motions with which they are agitated. 
Their motion is most commonly like that of a pair of colours, waved 
in the air, and the different tints of their light give them the ap- 
pearance of so many vast streamers of changeable taffeta. Some- 
times they line a part of the sky with scarlet. 

On the 18th of December, I saw a phenomenon of this kind, 
that, in the midst of all the wonders to which I was now every 
day accustomed, raised my admiration. To the south, a great space 
of the sky appeared tinged with so lively a red, that the whole 
constellation of Orion looked as if it had been dipped in blood. 
This light, which was at first fixed, soon moved, and changing into 
other colours, violet and blue, settled into a dome, whose top 
stood a little to the south west of the zenith. The moon shone 
bright, but did not in the least efface it. 

In this country, where there are lights of so many different co- 
lours, I never saw but two that were red; and such are taken for 
presages of some great misfortune. After all, when people gaze 
at these phenomena with an unphilosophic eye, it is not surprising 
if they discover in them armies engaged, fiery chariots, and a 
thousand other prodigies. 

During the winter we repeated many of our observations and 
calculations, and found the most evident proofs of the earth's be- 
ing flatted at the poles. Mean time the sun came nearer, or rather 
no more quitted us. It was now May, when it was curious 
enough to see that great luminary enlighten for so long a time a 
whole horizon of ice, and to see summer in the heavens, while 
winter still kept possession of the earth. We were in the morn- 
ing of that long day of several months; yet the sun, with all his 
power, wrought no change either upon the ice or snow. 

On the 6th of May it began to rain, and some water appeared 
on the ice of the river. At noon a little snow melted, but in the 
evening winter resumed his rights. At length, on the 10th, the 
earth, which had been so long hid, began to appear; some high 
points that were exposed to the sun showed themselves, as the tops 
of the mountains did after the deluge; and all the fowls of the 
country returned. At the beginning of June, winter yielding up 
the earth and sea, we prepared for our departure back to Stock- 
holm, and on the ninth, some of us set out by land, and others by 
sea. Maupertuis. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 285 

SECTION CIL 

Of St. Andrews in Scotland. 

I HAD desired to visit the Hebrides, or Western Islands of 
Scotland, so long, that I scarcely remember how the wish was ori- 
ginally excited; and was in the autumn of the year 1773, induced 
to undertake the journey, by finding in Mr. Boswell a companion, 
whose acuteness would help my inquiry, and whose gaiety of con- 
versation and civility of manners are sufficient to counteract the 
inconveniences of travel, 111 countries less hospitable than we have 
passed. 

On the ISth of August we left Edinburgh, a city too well known 
to admit description, and directed our course northward, along the 
eastern coast of Scotland, accompanied the first day by another 
gentleman, who could stay with us only long enough to show us 
how much we lost at separation. 

As we crossed the Firth of Forth, our curiosity was attracted 
by Inch Keith, a small island, which neither of my companions 
had ever visited, though lying within their view, it had all their 
lives solicited their notice. Here, by climbing with some difficulty 
over shattered crags, we made the first experiment of unfrequented 
coasts. Inch Keith is nothing more than a rock covered with a 
thin layer of earth, not wholly bare of grass, and very fertile of 
thistles. A small herd of cows graze annually upon it in the sum- 
mer. It seems never to have afforded to man or beast a perma- 
nent habitation. 

We left this little island with our thoughts employed a while on 
the different appearance that it would have made if it had been 
placed at the same distance from London, with the same facility of 
approach; with what emulation of price, a few rocky acres would 
have been purchased, and with what expensive industry they 
would have been cultivated and adorned. 

When we landed, we found our chaise ready, and passed 
through Kinghom, KirJealdy, and Cowpar, places not unlike 
the small trading market towns in those parts of England where 
commerce and manufactures have not yet produced opulence. 

Though we were yet in the most populous part of Scotland, and 
at so small a distance from the capital, we met few passengers. 

The roads are neither rough or dirty; and it affords a southern 
stranger a new kind of pleasure to travel so commodiously without 
the interruption of toll-gates. 

At an hour somewhat late, we came to St. Andrews, a city once 
archiepiseopal; where that university still subsists in which philo- 
sophy was formerly taught by Buchanan, whose name has as fair 
a claim to immortality as can be conferred by modern latinity, 



286 THE laOWLUS OF 

and perhaps a fairer than the instability of vernacular language ad- 
mits. 

We found, thai, by the interposition of some invisible friend, 
lodgings had been provided for us at the house of one of the pro- 
lessors, whose easy civility quickly made us forget that we were 
strangers; and in the whole time of our stay we were gratified by 
every mode of kindness, and entertained with all the elegance of 
lettered hospitality. 

In the morning wc arose to perambulate a city, which only his- 
tory shows to have once flourished, and surveyed the ruins of an- 
cient magnificence, of which even the ruins cannot long be visible, 
unless some care be taken to preserve them; and where is the plea- 
sure of preserving such mournful memorials? They have been, till 
very lately, so much neglected, that every man carried away the 
stones who fancied that he wanted them. 

The cathedral, of which the foundation may be still traced, and 
a small part of the wall is standing, appears to have been a spacious 
and majestic building, and not unsuitable to the primacy of the 
kingdom. Of the architecture, the poor remains can hardly exhi- 
bit, even to an artist, a sufficient specimen. It was demolished, it 
is well known, in the tumult and violence of Knox's reformation. 

Not far from the Cathedral, on the margin of the water, stands 
•a fragment of the castle, in which the archbishop anciently resided. 
It was never very large, and was built with more attention to se- 
curity than pleasuire. Cardinal Beatoun is said to have had work- 
men employed in improving its fortifications, at the time when 
he was murdered by the ruffians of reformation, in the manner of 
which Knox has given' what he himself calls a merry narrative. 

The change of religion in Scotland, eager and vehement as it 
was, raised an epidemical enthusiasm, compounded of the sullen 
scrupulousness and warlike Tero city, which, in a people whom 
idleness resigned to their own thoughts, and who, conversing only 
with each other, suffered no dilution of their zeal from the gradual 
influx of new opinions, was long transmitted in its full strength 
from the old to the young; but, by trade and intercourse with En- 
gland, is now visibly abating, and giving way too fast to laxity of 
practice and indifference of opinion, in which men, not sufficiently 
instructed to find the middle point, too easily shelter themselves 
from rigour and constraint. 

The city of St. Andrews, when it had lost its archi-episcopal 
pre-eminence, gradually decayed. One of its streets is now lost; 
and in those that remain, there is the silence and solitude of inac- 
tive indigence and gloomy depopulation. 

The university, within a few years, consisted of three colleges, 
but is now reduced to two; the college of St. Leonard being lately 
dissolved by the sale of its buildings, and the appropriation of its 
revenues to the professors of the two others. The chapel of the 
alienated college is yet standing, a fabric not inelegant of external 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 287 

structure; but I was always, by some civil excuse, hindered from 
entering it. A decent attempt, as I was since told, has been made 
to convert it into a kind of green-house, by planting its area with 
shrubs. This new method of gardening is unsuccessful; the plants 
do not hitherto prosper. To what use it will next be put, I have 
no pleasure in conjecturing. It is something that its present state 
is at least not ostentatiously displayed. Where there is yet shame, 
there may in time be virtue. 

The dissolution of St. Leonard's college was doubtless necessary; 
but of that necessity there is reason to complain. It is surely not 
without just reproach, that a nation, of which the commerce is 
hourly extending, and the wealth increasing, denies any partici- 
pation of its prosperity to its literary societies; and while its mer- 
chants or its nobles are raising palaces, suffers its universities to 
moulder into dust. 

Of the two colleges yet standing, one is by the institution of ifs 
founder appropriated to divinity. It is said to be capable of con- 
taining fifty students; but more than one must occupy a chamber. 
The library, which is of late erection, is not very spacious, but 
elegant and luminous. 

The Doctor, by whom it was shown, hoped to irritate or sub- 
due my English vanity, by telling me, that we had no such repo- 
sitory of Books in England. 

St. Andrews seems to be a place eminently adapted to study 
and education, being situated in a populous, yet a cheap country, 
and exposing the minds and manners of young men neither to the 
levity and dissoluteness of a capital citjr, nor to the gross luxury 
of a town of commerce, places naturally unpropitious to learning. 
In one the desire of knowledge easily gives way to the love of 
pleasure; and, in the other, is in danger of yielding to the love of 
money. 

The students, however, are represented at this time, not to 
exceed a hundred. Perhaps it may be some obstruction to their 
increase, that there is no Episcopal Chapel in the place. I saw 
no reason for imputing their paucity to the present professors; nor 
can the expense of an academical education be very reasonably ob- 
jected. A student of the highest class may keep his annual session, 
or, as the English call it, bis term, which lasts seven months, for 
about fifteen pounds, and one of lower rank for less than ten; in 
which, board, lodging, and instruction, are all included. 

The chief magistrate resident in the university, answering to 
our vice-chancellor, and to the rector magnificus on the continent, 
had commonly the title of Lord Rector; but being addressed only 
as Mr. Rector, in an inauguratory speech by the present chancel- 
lor, he has fallen from his former dignity of style. Lordship was 
very liberally annexed by our ancestors to any station or character 
of dignity. They said, the Lord General and Lord Jlmbussa, 



2S8 THE FLOWERS OP 

dor; so we still say, my Lord, to the judge upon the circuit, and 
yet retain in our Liturgy the Lords of the Council. 

In walking among the ruins of religious buildings, we came to 
two vaults, over which had formerly stood the house of the sub- 
prior. One of the vaults was inhabited by an old woman, who 
claimed the right of abode there, and the widow of a man whose 
ancestors had possessed the sam"e gloomy mansion for no less than 
four generations. The right, however it began, was considered 
as established by legal prescription, and the old woman lives un- 
disturbed. She thinks, however, that she has a claim to some- 
thing more than sufferance; for as her husband's name was Bruce> 
she is allied to royalty, and she told Mr. Boswell, that when there 
were persons of quality in the place, she was distinguished by some 
notice; that indeed she is now neglected, but she spins a thread, 
has the company of her cat, and is troublesome to nobody. 

Having now see>n whatever this ancient city offered to our curio- 
sity, we left it with good wishes, having reason to be highly pleas- 
ed with the attention that was paid us. But whoever surveys the 
world must see many things that give him pain. The kindness 
of the professors did not contribute to abate the uneasy remem- 
brance of an university declining; a college, alienated; a church 
profaned, and hastening to the ground. 

St. Andrews indeed has formerly suffered more atrocious ravages, 
and more extensive destruction; but recent evils affect with greater 
force. We were reconciled to the sight of archiepiscopal ruins. 
The distance of a calamity from the present time seems to preclude 
the mind from contact or sjnnpathy. Events long past are barely 
known; they are not considered. We read with as little emotion 
the violence of Knox and his followers, as the eruptions of Alaric 
and the Goths. Had the university been destro}'ed two centuries 
ago, we should not have regretted it; but to see it pining in decay, 
and struggling for life, fills the mind with mournful images and 
ineffectual wishes. 

Dr. Johnson. 

SECTION CIII. 

Of Lnverness. 

INVERNESS may properly be called the capital of the High 
lands. Hither the inhabitants of the inland parts come to be sup- 
lied with what they cannot make for themselves. Hither the young 
nymphs of the mountains and valleys are sent for education, and, 
as far as my observation has reached, are not sent in vain. 

Inverness was the last place which had a regular communication 
by high roads with the southern counties. All the ways beyond 
it have, I believe, been made by the soldiers in this century. At 
Inverness, therefore, Cromwell, when he subdued Scotland, sta- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. • 2§9 

t|bned a garrison, as at the boundary of the Highlands. The sol- 
diers seem to have incorporated afterwards with the inhabitants, 
and to have peopled the place with an English race; for the lan- 
guage of this town has been long considered as particularly elegant. 

Here is a castle, called the castle of Macbeth, the walls of which 
are yet standing. It was nO very capacious edifice, but stands 
upon a rock so high and steep, that I think it was once not acces- 
sible, but by the help of ladders or a bridge. Opposite to it, on 
another hill, was a fort built by Cromwell, now totally demolish- 
ed; for no faction of Scotland loved the name of Cromwell, or had 
any desire to continue his memory. 

Yet what the Romans did to other nations, was in a great de- 
gree done by Cromwell to the Scots. He civilized them by con- 
quest, and introduced by useful violence the arts of peace. I was 
told at Aberdeen, that the people learned from Cromwell's soldiers 
to make shoes and to plant kail. 

How they lived without kail, it is not easy to guess. They 
cultivate hardly any other plant for common tables; and when 
they had not kail, they probably had nothing. The numbers that 
go barefoot are still sufficient to show that shoes may be spared. 
They are not yet considered as necessaries of life; for tall boys^ 
not otherwise meanly dressed, run without them in the streets 
and in the islands. The sons of gentlemen pass several of the first 
years with naked feet. 

I know not whether it be not peculiar to the Scots to have at* 
tained the liberal without the manual arts; to have excelled in or* 
namental knowledge, and to have wanted not only the elegancies^ 
but the conveniences of common life. Literature, soon after its 
revival, found its way to Scotland; and from the middle of the six- 
teenth century, almost to the middle of the seventeenth, the po- 
liter studies were very diligently pursued. The Latin poetry of 
Delicise Poet arum Scot at arum would have done honour to any 
nation; at least till the publication of May's Supplement, the 
English had very little to oppose. 

Yet men thus ingenious and inquisitive were content to live in 
total ignorance of the trades by which human wants are supplied, 
and to supply them by the grossest means. Till the union made 
them acquainted with English manners, the culture of their lands 
was unskilful, and their domestic life uninformed. 

Since thay have known that their condition was capable of im- 
provement, their progress in useful knowledge has been rapid and 
uniform. What remains to be done they will quickly do, and then 
wonder, like me, why that which was so necessary and so easy, 
was so long delayed. But they must be forever content to owe to 
the English that elegance and culture, which, if they had been vi- 
gilant and active, perhaps the English might have owed to them. 

Here the appearance of life began to alter. I had seen a few 
Women with plaids at Aberdeen; but at Inverness, the Highland 
37 



ti~, 



29© THE FLOWERS OP 

manners are common. There is, I think a kirk, in which only 
the Erse language is used. There is likewise an English chapel, 
hut meanly built, where on Sunday we saw a very decent congre- 
gation. 

We were now to bid farewell to the luxury of travelling, and to 
ejiter a country upon which perhaps no wheels has ever rolled. 
We could indeed have Used our post-chaise one day longer, olong 
tbe military road to Fort Augustus, but we could have hired no 
horses beyond Inverness, and we were not so sparing of ourselves as 
to lead them, merely that we might have one day longer the indul- 
gence of a carriage. At Inverness, therefore, we procured three 
horses for ourselves and a servant, and one more for our baggage, 
which was no very heavy load. We found in the course of our 
journey the convenience of having disencumbered ourselves, by 
laying aside whatever we could spare; for it is not to be imagined 
without experience, how, in climbing crags, and treading bogs, 
and winding through narrow and obstructed passages, a little bulk 
will hinder, and a little weight will burden; or how often a man 
that has pleased himself at home with his own resolution, will, in 
the hour of darkness and fatigue, be content to leave behind him 
every thing but himself. 

We took two Highlanders to run beside us^ partly to shew us 
the way, and partly to take back from the seaside the horses, of 
which they were the owners. One of them was a man of great live- 
liness and activity, of whom his companion said, that he would 
tire any horse in Inverness. Both of them were civil and ready- 
handed Civility seems part of the national character of the High- 
landers. Every chieftain is a monarch; and politeness, the natural 
product of royal government, is diffused from the laird through 
the whole clan. But they are not commonly dexterous. Their 
narrowness of life confines them to a few operations, and they are 
accustomed to endure little wants, more than to remove them. 

We mounted our steeds on the thirteenth of August, and directed 
our guides to conduct us to Fort Augustus. It is built at the head 
of Lough Ness, of which Inverness stands at the outlet. The way 
between them has been cut by the soldiers, and the greater part of 
it runs along a rock, levelled with great labour and exactness near 
the water-side. 

Most of this day's journey was very pleasant. Tbe day, though 
bright, was not hot; and the appearance of the country, if I had 
not seen the Peak, would have been wholly new. We went upon 
a surface so hard and level, that we had little care to hold the bri- 
dle, and were therefore at full leisure for contemplation. On the 
left were high and steep rocks shaded with birch, the hardy native 
of the north, and covered with fern or heath. On the right the 
limpid waters of Lough Ness were beating their banks, and waving 
their surface by a gentle agitation. Beyond them were rocks some- 
times covered with verdure, and sometimes towering in horrid na- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 291 

kedness. Now and then we espied a little cornfield, which served 
to impress more strongly the general barrenness. 

Lough Ness is about twenty-four miles long, and from one to 
two miles broad. It is remarkable that Boethius, in his descrip- 
tion of Scotland, gives it twelve miles breadth. When historians 
or geographers exhibit false accounts of places far distant, they may 
be forgiven, because they can but tell what they are told; and that 
their accounts exceed the truth may be justly supposed, because 
most men exaggerate to others, if not to themselves. But Boethius 
lived at no great distance. If he never saw the lake he must have 
heen very incurious, and if he had seen it, his veracity yielded to 
very slight temptations. 

Lough Ness, though not twelve miles broad, is a very remark-, 
able diffusion of water without islands. It fills a large hollow be- 
tween two ridges of high rocks, being supplied partly by the tor- 
rents which fall into it on either side, and partly, as is supposed, 
by springs at the bottom. Its water is remakably clear and plea- 
sant, and is imagined by the natives to be medicinal. We were 
told, that it is in some places one hundred and forty fathoms deep, 
a profundity scarcely credible, and which probably those that re- 
late it have never sounded. Its fish are salmon, trout, and pike'. 

It was said at Fort Augustus, that Lough Ness is open in the 
hardest winters, though a lake not far from it is covered with ice. 
In discussing these exceptions from the course of nature, the first 
question is, whether the fact be justly stated. That which is strange 
is delightful, and a pleasing error is not willingly detected. Ac- 
curacy of narration is not very common, and there are few so rigid- 
ly philosophical as not to represent as perpetual what is only fre- 
quent; or as constant, what is really casual. If it be true that Lough 
Ness never freezes, it is either sheltered by its high banks from 
the cold blasts, and exposed only to those winds which have more 
power to agitate than congeal; or it is kept in perpetual motion by the 
rush of streams from the rocks that inclose it. Its profundity, though 
it should be such as is represented, can have little part in this ex- 
emption; for though deep wells are not frozen, because their wa- 
ters are excluded from the external air, yet where a wide surface 
is exposed to the full influence of a freezing atmosphere, I know 
not why the depth should keep it open. Natural philosophy is now- 
one of the favorite studies of the Scotch nation, and Lough Ness 
well deserves to be diligently examined. 

The road on which we travelled, and which was itself a source of 
entertainment, is made along the rock in the direction of the lough; 
sometimes by breaking off protuberances, and sometimes by cutting 
the great mass of stone to a considerable depth. The fragments 
are piled in a loo^e wall on either side, with apertures left at 
very short spaces, to give a passage to the wintry currents. Part 
of it is bordered with low trees, from which our guides gathered 
nuts, and would have had the appearance of an English lane^ except 



292- THE FLOWERS OV 

that an English lane is almost always dirty. It has been made 
with great labour, but has this advantage, that it cannot, with- 
out equal labour, be broken up. 

Within our sight there were goats feeding or playing. The 
mountains have red deer, but they came not within our view; and 
if what is said of their vigilance and subtlety be true, they have 
some claim to that palm of wisdom, which the eastern philosopher, 
whom Alexander interrogated, gave to those beasts which live 
farthest from men, Dr. Johnson 



SECTION CIV. 

Description of a Highland Collage. 

'NEAR the way, by the water side, we espied a cottage. This 
was the first Highland hut I had seen; and as our business was with 
life and manners, w T e were willing to visit it. To enter a habita- 
tion without leave, seems to be considered here rudeness and intru- 
sion. The old laws of hospitality still give this licence to a stranger. 
A hut is constructed with loose stones, ranged for the most part 
with some tendency to circularity. It must be placed where the 
wind cannot act upon it with violence, because it has no cement; 
and where the water will run easily away, because it has no floor 
but the naked ground. The wall which is commonly about six feet 
high, declines from the perpendicular a little inward. Such 
rafters as can be procured are then raised for a roof, and covered 
with heath, which makes a strong and warm thatch, kept from 
flying off by ropes of twisted heath, of which the ends, reaching 
from the centre of the thatch to the top of the wall, are held firm 
by the weight of a large stone. No light is admitted but at the en- 
trance, and through a hole in the thatch, which gives vent to the 
smoke. This hole is not directly over the fire, lest the rain should 
extinguish it; and the smoke therefore naturally fills the place be- 
fore it escapes. Such is the general structure of the houses in 
which one of the natives of this opulent and powerful island has 
been hitherto content to live. Huts, however, are not more uni- 
form than palaces; and this which we were inspecting, was very 
far from one of the meanest, for it was divided into several apart- 
ments; and its inhabitants possessed such property as a pastoral 
poet might exalt into riches. 

When we entered we found an old woman boiling goat's-flesh in 
a kettle. She spoke little English, but we had interpreters at hand; 
and she was willing enough to display her whole system of econo- 
my. She has five children, of which none are yet gone from her. 
The eldest, a boy of thirteen, and her husband, who is eighty 
years old, were at work in the wood. Her two next sons were 
gone to Inverness to buy meal, by which oatmeal is always meant, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 293 

Meal she considers as expensive food, and told us, that in spring, 
when the goats gave milk, the children could live without it. She 
is mistress of sixty goats, and I saw many kids in an enclosure at 
the end of her house. She had also some poultry. By the lake 
we saw a potato-garden, and a small spot of ground on which stood 
four shucks, containing each twelve sheaves of barley. She has 
all this from the labour of their own hands; and for what is neces- 
sary to be bought, her kids and her chickens are sent to market. 

With the true pastoral hospitality, she asked us to sit down and 
drink whiskey. She is religious, and though the kirk is four miles 
off. probably eight English miles, she goes thither every Sunday. 
We gave her a shilling, and she begged snuff; for snuff is the lux- 
ury of a Highland cottage. 

Soon afterwards we came to the GeneraVs Hut, so called because 
it was the temporary abodG of Wade, while he superintended the 
works upon the road. It is now a house of entertainment for pas- 
sengers, and we found it not ill stocked with provisions. 

Dr. Johnson, 



SECTION CV. 

Of the Climate, Soil, Produce, and Animals of the Hebrides, 
particularly of Sky. 

AS the island of Sky lies in the fifty-seventh degree, the air 
cannot be supposed to have much warmth The long continuance 
of the sun above the horizon does indeed sometimes produce great 
heat in northern latitudes; but this can only happen in sheltered 
places, where the atmosphere is to a certain degree stagnant, and 
the same mass of air continues to receive for many hours the rays 
of the sun, and the vapours of the earth. Sky lies open on the 
west and north to a vast extent of ocean, and is cooled in the sum- 
mer by perpetual ventilation, but by the same blasts is kept warm 
in winter. Their weather is not pleasing. Half the year is de- 
luged with rain. Fi'om the autumnal to the vernal equinox, a dry 
day is hardly known, except when the showers are suspended by 
a tempest. Under such skies can be expected no great exuberance 
of vegetation. Their winter overtakes their summer, and their 
harvest lies upon the ground drenched with rain. The autumn 
struggles hard to produce some of our early fruits. I gathered 
gooseberries in September; but they were small, and the husk was 
thick. 

Their winter is seldom such as puts a full stop to the growth 
of plants, or reduces the cattle to live wholly on the surplusage of 
the summer. In the year seventy-one they had a severe season, 
remembered by the name of the Black Spring, from which the 
island has not yet recovered. The snow lay long upon the ground., 



294 THE FLOWEUS OF 

a calamity never known before. Part of their cattle died for 
want, and part were unseasonably sold to buy sustenance for the 
owners. 

The soil, as in other countries, has its diversities. In some 
parts there is only a thin layer of earth spread upon a rock, which 
bears nothing but short brown heath, and perhaps is not generally 
capable of any better product. There are many bogs or mosses of 
greater or less extent, where the soil cannot be supposed to want 
depth, though it is too wet for the plough. But we did not ob- 
serve in these any aquatic plants. The valleys and the mountains 
are alike darkened with heath. Some grass, however, grows here 
and there, and some happier spots of earth are capable of tillage. 

Their agriculture is laborious, and perhaps rather feeble than un- 
skilful. Their chief manure is sea-weed, which when they lay 
it to rot upon the field, gives them a better crop than those of the 
Highlands. They heap sea shells upon the dunghill, which in 
time moulder into a fertilizing substance. When they find a vein 
of earth where they cannot use it, th»y dig it up, and add it to 
the mould of a more commodious place. Their corn grounds often 
lie in such intricacies among the crags, that there is no room for 
the action of a team and plough. The soil is then turned up by 
manual labour, with an instrument called a crooked spade, of a 
form and weight which to me appeared very incommodious, and 
would perhaps be soon improved in a country where workmen 
could be easily found and easily paid. It has a narrow blade of 
iron fixed to a long and heavy piece of wood, which must have, 
about a foot and a half above the iron, a knee or flexure with the 
angle downwards. When the farmer encounters a stone, which is 
the great impediment of his operations, he drives the blade under 
it, and bringing the knee or angle to the ground, has in the long 
handle a very forcible lever. 

According to the different modes of tillage, farms are distin- 
guished into long land and short land. Long land is that which 
affords room for a plough, and short land is turned up by the 
spade. 

The grain which they commit to the furrows thus tediously 
formed, is either oats or barley. They do not sow barley without 
very copious manure, and then they expect from it ten for one, 
an increase equal to that of better countries; but the culture is so 
operose, that they content themselves commonly with oats; and who 
can relate without compassion, that, after all their diligence, they 
are to expect only a triple increase? Itis in vain to hope for plenty, 
when a third part of the harvest must be reserved for seed. 

When their grain is arrived at the state which they must consider 
as ripeness, they do not cut, but pull the barley. To the oats they 
apply the sickle. Wheel carriages they have none, but make a 
frame of timber, which is drawn by one horse, with the two 
points behind pressing on the ground. On this they sometimes 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. ,2&3 

drag home their sheaves, but often convey them home in a kind of 
open pannier, or frame of sticks upon the horse's back. 

Of that which is obtained with so much difficulty nothing surely 
ought, to be wasted; yet their method of clearing their oats from 
the husk, is by parching them in the straw. Thus, with the 
genuine improvidence of savages, they destroy that fodder for 
want of which their cattle may perish. From this practice they 
have but two petty conveniences. They dry the grain, so that it 
is easily reduced to meal, and they escape the theft of the thresher. 
The taste contracted from the fire by the oats, as by every other 
scorched substance, use must long ago have made grateful. The 
oats that are not parched must be dried in a kiln. 

Of their gardens I can judge only from their tables. I did not 
observe that the common greens were wanting, and suppose, that 
by choosing an advantageous exposition, they can raise all the 
more hardy esculent plants. Of vegetable fragrance or beauty, 
they are not yet studious. Few vows are made to Flora in the 
Hebrides. They gather a little hay, but the grass is mown late; 
and is so often almost dry, and again very wet, before it is housed, 
that it becomes a collection of withered stalks without taste or 
fragrance. It must be eaten by cattle that have nothing else, but 
by most English farmers would be thrown away. 

In the islands I have not heard that any subterraneous treasures 
have been discovered, though where there are mountains there are 
commonly minerals. One of the rocks in Col has a black vein, 
imagined to consist of the ore of lead; but it was never yet 
opened or essayed. In Sky, a black mass was accidentally picked 
up, and brought into the house of the owner of the land, who 
found himself strongly inclined to think it a coal, but unhappily 
it did not burn in the chimney. Common ores would be here of 
no great value; for what requires to be separated by fire, must, if 
it were found, be carried away in its mineral state, here being no 
fuel for the smelting-house, or forge. Perhaps by diligent search 
in this world of stone, some valuable species of marble might be 
discovered. But neither philosophical curiosity, nor commercial 
industry, have yet fixed their abode here, where the importunity of 
immediate want supplied but for the day, and craving on the mor- 
row, has left little room for excursive knowledge, or the pleasing 
fancies of distant profit. 

They have lately found a manufacture considerably lucrative. 
Their rocks abound with kelp, a sea-plant, of which the ashes are 
melted into glass. They burn kelp in great quantities, and then 
send it away in ships, which come regularly to purchase it. — - 
This new source of riches, has raised the rents of many maritime 
farms; but the tenants pay, like all other tenants, the additional rent 
with great unwillingness; because they consider the profits of the 
kelp as the mere product of personal labour, to which the land- 
lord contributes nothing. However, as any man may be said to 



296 THE FLOWERS OF 

give what he gives the power of gaining, he has certainly as much 
right to profit from the price of kelp, as of any thing else found or 
raised upon his ground. 

This new trade has excited a long and eager litigation between 
Macdonald and Macleod, for a ledge of rocks, which, till the 
value of kelp was known, neither of them desired the reputation 
of possessing. 

The cattle of Sky, are not so small as is commonly believed. 
Since they have sent their beeves in great numbers to southern 
marts, they have probably taken more care of their breed. At 
stated times the annual growth of cattle is driven to a fair, by a 
general drover; and with the money, which he returns to the 
farmer, the rents are paid. 

The price regularly expected, is from two to three pounds a 
head. There was once one sold for five pounds. They go from 
the islands very lean, and are not offered to the butcher till they* 
have been long fatted in JEnglish pastures. 

Of their black cattle, some are without horns, called by the 
Scotch humble coivs, as we call a bee an humble bee, that wants a 
sting. Whether this difference be specific, or accidental, though 
we enquired with great diligence, we could not be informed. 

Their horses are, like their cows, of a moderate size. I had no 
difficulty to mount myself commodiously by the favour of the 
gentlemen. 

The goat is the general inhabitant of the earth, complying with 
every difference of climate and soil. The goats of the Hebrides 
are like others; nor did I hear any tiling of their sheep to be par- 
ticularly remarked. 

In the penury of these malignant regions, nothing is left that 
can be converted to food. The goats and the sheep are milked 
like the cows. A single meal of a goat is a quart, and of a sheep 
a pint. Such at least was the account which I could extract from 
those of whom I am not sure that they ever had enquired. 

The milk of goats is much thinner than that of cows, and that 
of sheep is much thicker. Sheep's milk is never eaten before it 
is boiled. As it is thick, it must be very liberal of curd, and the 
people of St. Kilda, form it into small cheeses. 

The stags of the mountains are less than those of our parks or 
forests, perhaps not bigger than our fallow-deer. Their flesh has 
no rankness, nor is it inferior in flavour to our common venison. 
The roebuck I neither saw nor tasted. These are not the coun- 
tries for a regular chase. The deer are not driven with horns and 
hounds. A sportsman, with his gun in his hand, watches the 
animal, and when he has wounded him, traces him by the blood. 

They have a race of brinded greyhounds, larger and stronger 
than those with which we course hares; and those are the only 
dogs used by them for the chase. 



m 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 297 

There are in Sky neither rats nor mice, but the weasel is so fre- 
quent, that he is heard in houses rattling behind chests or beds, as 
rats in England. They probably owe to his predominance that 
they have no other vermin; for since the great rat took possession 
of this part of the world, scarce a ship can touch at any port, 
but some of his race are left behind. 

Dr. Johnson, 



SECTION CVI. 

Of the Inhabitants and Houses of the Hebrides* 

THE inhabitants of Skye, and of the other islands which I have 
•seen, are commonly of the middle stature, with fewer among them 
very tall or very short, than are seen in England; or perhaps, as 
their numbers are small, the chances of deviation from the common 
measure are necessarily few. The tallest men that I saw, are among 
those of higher rank. In regions of barrenness and scarcity, the 
human race is hindered in its growth by the same causes as other 
animals. 

The ladies have as much beauty here as in other places; but bloom 
and softness are not to be expected among the lower classes, whose 
faces are exposed to the rudeness of Ihe climate, and whose features 
are sometimes contracted by want, and sometimes hardened by the 
blasts. Supreme beauty is seldom found in cottages or work-shops, 
even where no real hardships are suffered. To expand the human 
face to its full perfection, it seems necessary that the mind should 
co-operate by placidness of content, or consciousness of superiority. 

Their strength is proportionate to their size, but they are accus- 
tomed to run upon rough ground, and therefore can, with great 
agility, skip over the bog, or clamber the mountain. For a cam- 
paign in the wastes of America, soldiers better qualified could not 
have been found. Having little work to do, they are not willing, 
nor perhaps able, to endure a long continuance of manual labor, and 
are therefore considered as habitually idle. 

Having never been supplied with those accommodations, which 
life extensively diversified with trades affords, they supply their 
wants by very insufficient shifts, and endure many inconveniencies 
which a little attention would easily relieve. I have seen a horse 
carrying home the harvest on a crate. Under his tail was a stick 
for a crupper, held at the two ends by twists of straw. Hemp 
will grow in their islands, and therefore ropes may be had. If 
they wanted hemp, they might make better cordage of rushes, or 
perhaps of nettles, than of straw: 

Their method of life neither secures them perpetual health, nor 
exposes them to particular diseases. They are physicians in the 
38 



258 THE FLOWERS Of 

islands, who, I believe, all practise chirurgery, and all compound 
their own medicines. . » 

It is generally supposed, that life is longer in places where there 
are few opportunities of luxury; but I found no instance here of 
extraordinary longevity. A cottager grows old over his oaten 
cakes, like a citizen at a turtle-feast. He is indeed seldom incom- 
moded by corpulence. Poverty preserves him from sinking 
under the burden of himself but he escapes no other injury of 
time. Instances of long life are often related, which those who 
hear them are more willing to credit than examine. To be 
told that any man has attained a hundred years, gives hope and 
comfort to him who stands tremhling on the brink of his own 
climacteric. 

Length of life is distributed impartially to very different modes 
of life, in very different climates; and the mountains have no 
greater examples of age and health, than the low lands, where [ 
was introduced to two ladies of high quality; one of whom, in her 
ninety-fourth year, presided at her table witli the full exercise of 
all her powers; and the other has attained her eighty-fourth, 
without any diminution of her vivacity, and with littie reason to 
accuse time of depredations on her beauty. 

The habitations of men in the Hebrides, may be distinguished 
into huts and houses. By a house, 1 mean a building with one 
story over another; by a hut, a dwelling with only one floor. 
The Laird who formerly lived in a castle, now lives in a house: 
sometimes sufficiently neat, but seldom very spacious or splendid. 
The tacksman and the ministers have commonly houses. Wher- 
ever there is a house, the stranger finds a welcome. 

Of the houses little can be said. They are small, and by the 
necessity of accumulating stores, where there are so few opportu- 
nities of purchase, the rooms are very heterogeneously filled. 
With want of cleanliness it were ingratitude to reproach them: 
the servants having been bred upon the naked earth, think every 
floor clean; and the quick succession of guests, perhaps not always 
over elegant, does not allow much time for adjusting their apart- 
ments. 

Huts are of many gradations; from murky dens, to commodious 
dwellings. 

The wail of a common hut is always built without mortar, by a 
skillful adaptation of loose stones. — Sometimes, perhaps, a double 
wall of stones is raised, and the intermediate space filled with earth. 
The air is thus completely excluded. Some walls are, I think, formed 
of turf, held together ! y a wattle, or texture of twigs. Of the 
meanest huts, the first room is lighted by the entrance, and the 
second by the smoke-hole.. The fire is usually made in the middle. 
But there are huts, or dwellings, of only one story, inhabited by 
gentlemen, which have walls cemented with mortar, glass win- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 299 

dows, and boarded floors. Of these all have chimneys, and some 
chimneys- have grates. 

The house and the furniture are not always nicely suited. We 
were driven once, by missing a passage, to the hut of a gentleman, 
where, after a very liberal supper, when I was conducted to my 
chamber, I found an elegant bed of Indian cotton, spread with 
fine sheets. The accommodation was flattering; I undressed my- 
self, and felt my feet in the mire. The bed stood upon the bare 
earth, which a long course of rain had softened to a puddle. 

The petty tenants, and labouring peasants, live in miserable 
cabins, which afford them little more than shelter from the storms. 
The boor of Norway is said to make all his own utensils. In 
the Hebrides, whatever might be their ingenuity, the want of 
wood leaves them no materials. They are probably content with 
such accommodations as stones of different forms and sizes can 
afford them. 

Their food is not better than their lodging. They seldom taste 
the flesh of land animals; for here are no markets. What each 
man eats is from his own flock. The great effect of money is to' 
break property into small parts. In towns, he that has a shilling 
may have a piece of meat; but where there is no commerce, no 
man can eat mutton but by killing a sheep. 

Fish, in fair wealher they need not want; but, I believe, man 
never lives long on fish, but by constraint; he will rather feed 
upon roots and berries. 

The only fuel of the islands is peat. Their wood is all con- 
sumed, and coal they have not yet found. Peat is dug out of the 
marshes, from the depth of one foot to that of six. That is ac- 
counted the best which is nearer the surface. It appears to be a 
mass of black earth, held together by vegetable fibres. I know 
not whether the earth be bituminous, or whether the fibres be not; 
the only combustible part; which, by heating the interposed earth 
red-hot, make a burning mass. The heat is not very strong n,qr 
lasting. The ashes are yellowish, and in a large quantity. When 
they dig peat, they cut it into square pieces, and pile it up to dry 
beside the house. In some places it has an offensive smell. It is 
like wood charked for the smith- The common method of mak- 
ing peat fires, is by heaping it on the earth; but it burns well in 
grates, and in the best houses is so used. 

The common opinion is, that peat grows again where it has 
been cut; which, as it seems to be chiefly a vegetable substance, is 
not unlikely to be true, whether known or not to those who re- 
late it Dr. Johnson. 



30U TUK FLOWJiRS Of 

SECTION CVII. 

Of the Hebridian Tables. 

IT* need not, I suppose, be mentioned, that in countries so JittJe 
frequented as the islands, there are no houses where travellers arc 
entertained for money. He that wanders about these wilds, either 
procures recommendations to those whose habitations lie near his 
way, or, when night and weariness come upon him, takes the 
chance of general hospitality. If he finds only a cottage, he can 
expect little more than shelter; for the cottagers have little more 
for themselves. But if his good fortune brings him to the resi- 
dence of a gentleman, he will be glad of a storm to prolong his 
stay. There is, however, one inn by the sea-side at Sconfor, in 
Sky, where the post-office is kept. 

At the tables where a stranger is received, neither plenty nor 
delicacy is wanting. A tract of land so thinly inhabited, must 
have much wild-fowl; and I scarcely remember to have seen a 
dinner without them. The moor- game is every where to be had. 
That the sea abounds with fish, need not be told; for it supplies a 
great part of Europe. The isle of Sky, has stags and roebucks, 
but no hares. They sell very numerous droves of oxen to Eng- 
land, and therefore cannot be supposed to want beef at home. 
Sheep and goats are in great numbers, and they have the common 
domestic fowls. 

But as here is nothing to be bought, every family must kill itsr 
own meat, and roast part of it somewhat sooner than Apicius 
would prescribe. Every kind of flesh is undoubtedly excelled 
by the variety and emulation of English markets; but that which 
is not best, may yet be far from bad; and he that shall complain of 
his fare in the Hebrides, has improved his delicacy more than his 
manhood. 

The fowls are not like thcs2 plumed for sale by the poulterers 
of London, but they are as good as other places commonly afford, 
except that the geese, by feeding in the sea, have universally a 
fishy rankness. 

These geese seem to be of a middle race, between the wild and 
domestic kinds. They are so tame as to own a home, and so 
wild as sometimes to fly quite away. 

Their native bread is made of oats, or barley. Of oatmeal the} 7 
spread very thin cakes, coarse and hard, to which unaccustomed 
palates are not easily reconciled. The barley cakes are thicker 
and softer. I began to eat them with unwillingness. The black- 
ness of their colour raises some dislike, but the taste, is not disa- 
greeable. In most houses there is wheat-flour, with which w>e 
were sure to be treated, if we staid long enough to have it kneaded 
and baked. As neither yeast nor leaven are used among them, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 301 

their bread of every kind is unfermented. They make only cakes, 
and never mould a loaf. 

A man of the Hebrides, for of the women's diet I can give no ac- 
count, as soon as he appears in the morning, swallows a glass of 
whiskey. Yet they are not a drunken race; at least I never was 
present at much intemperance. But no man is so abstemious as 
to refuse the morning dram, which they call a skalk. 

The word whiskey, signifies water, and is applied by way of 
eminence to strong water, or distilled liquor. The spirit drunk in 
the north, is drawn from barley. I never tasted it, except once 
for experiment at the inn, in Inverary , when I thought it prefer- 
able to any English malt brandy. It was strong, but not pun- 
gent, and was free from the empyreumatic taste or smell. What 
was the process, I had no opportunity of enquiring, nor do I wish 
to improve the art of making poison pleasant. 

Not long after the dram, may be expected the breakfast, a meal 
in which the Scots, whether of the lowlands or mountains, must 
be confessed to excel us The tea and coffee are accompanied not 
only with butter, but with honey, conserves, and marmalades. If 
an epicure could remove by a wish, in quest of sensual gratifica- 
tions, wherever he had supped, he would breakfast in Scotland. 

In the islands, however, they do what I found it not very easy 
to endure. They pollute the tea-table, by plates piled with large 
slices of Cheshire cheese, which mingles its less grateful odours 
with the fragrance of the tea. 

Where many questions are to be asked, some will be omitted. 
I forgot to enquire how they were supplied with so much exotic 
luxury. Perhaps the French may bring them wine for wool, and 
the Dutch give them tea and coffee at the fishing season, in ex- 
change for fresh provisions. Their trade is unconstrained. Thev 
pay no customs, for there is no officer to demand them. What- 
ever therefore is made dear only by impost, is obtained here at an 
easy rate. 

A dinner in the Western Islands, differs very little from a din- 
ner in England, except that, in the place of tarts, there are al- 
ways set different preparations of milk. This part of their diet 
will admit some improvement. Though they have milk and eggs, 
and sugar, few of them know how to compound them in a cus- 
tard. Their gardens afford them no great variety, but they have 
always some vegetables on the table. Potatoes at least are never 
wanting, which, though they have not known them long, are 
now one of the principal parts of their food. They are not of the 
meally but the viscous kind. 

Their more elaborate cookery, or made dishes, an Englishman 
at the first taste is not likely to approve; but the culinary composi- 
tions of every country are often such as become grateful to other 
nations only by degrees: though I have read a French author, who, 



302 THE FLOWERS OS 

in the elation of his heart, says, that French cookery pleases all 
foreigners, hut foreign cookery never satisfies a Frenchman. 

Their suppers are, like their dinners, various and plentiful. 
The table is always covered with elegant linen. Their plates for 
common use, are often of that kind of manufacture which is called 
cream-coloured, or queen's-ware. They use silver on all occa- 
sions where it is common in England, nor did I ever lind the 
spoon of horn but in one house. 

The knives are not often either very bright or very sharp. 
They are indeed instruments, of which the Highlanders have not 
been long acquainted with the general use. They were not regu- 
larly laid on the table, before the prohibition of arms and the 
change of dress. Thirty years ago, the Highlander wore his 
knife as a companion to his dirk or dagger; and when the company 
sat down to meat, the men, who had knives, cut the flesh into 
small pieces for the women, who with their fingers conveyed it 
to their mouths. 

There was perhaps never any change of national manners so 
quick, so great, and so general, as that which has operated in the 
Highlands, by the last conquest, and the subsequent laws. We 
came thither too late to see what we expected, a people of peculiar 
appearance, and a system of antiquated life. The clans retain 
little now of their original character; their ferocity of temper is 
softened, their military ardour is extinguished, their dignity of 
independence is depressed, their contempt of government subdued, 
and their reverence for their chiefs abated. Of what they had 
before the late conquest of their country, there remain only their 
language and their poverty. Their language is attacked on every 
side. Schools are erected, in which English only is taught, and 
there were lately some who thought it reasonable to refuse them 
a version of the holy scriptures, that they might have no monu- 
ment of their mother-tongue. 

That their poverty is gradually abated, cannot be mentioned 
among the unpleasing consequences of subjection. They are now 
acquainted with money, and the possibility of gain will by degrees 
make them industrious. Such is the effect of the late regulations, 
that a longer journey than to the Highlands, must be taken by him 
whose curiosity pants for savage virtues and barbarous grandeur. 

Dr. Johnson. 



SECTION CVIII. 

Of Gesner's Monument. 

DURING my stay at Zurich, the monument, which the friends 
and admirers of Solomon Gesner, the poet, associated to erect to 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLKKS. 303 

his memory, arrived from Rome* It is the work of Trippel, 
the famous sculptor of Schaffhausen; and is an excellent perform- 
ance, worthy of the great poet of Zurich, and his fellow citizens. 

It consists of a white marble slab, about five feet high, and four 
broad: where the two shepherds of Gesner, Daphnis and Micon, 
are cut in alto relievo; and at the instant when Micon makes a liba- 
tion to the memory of the father of his friend. Perhaps you do 
not recollect this beautiful idyl of Gesner. 

The goat of Daphnis and Micon, has strayed from the flock, 
and waded into a marsh. The shepherds endeavour to relieve 
it; and Mieon discovers a fallen arch, and learns from Daphnis 
that it is a sepulchre. Micon sees an urn lying in the hollow, 
and is terrified at the figures carved round it, which, as he says, 
appear to him to be rising from its sides. — "A dreadful warrior 
and a furious steedJ behold how his hoofs trample on the wounded 
and the fallen! This man never could have been a shepherd." 

Daphnis replies, "He was a monster, who laid waste the fruitful 
fields, and made freemen slaves — The hoofs of his war-horses 
have trodden down the corn; and he strewed the barren fields with 
the bodies of our forefathers. As the ravenous wolf devours the 
flock, so did his warriors destroy the innocent, who did him no 
wrong." 

Micon wonders at the wickedness and folly of the inhuman 
wretch; and remarks that now reptiles swarm in the urn and its 
bed— 

"Who but must smile to see the toad crawling in the helmet 
of the furious hero; and the blind worm seated on his threatening 
sword?" 

The shepherds then converse awhile on this warrior; and M> 
con exclaims — "No rather than be guilty of such odious crimes, 
though it were to gain a world, I would live the master only of 
two goats, and a pure heart; detesting such wickedness. One of 
these 1 would willingly sacrifice to the gods, with thanks, for 
making me thus happy." 

"Let us be gone," answered Daphnis, "let us leave a place, 
which excites only melancholy and bitterness. Follow me, I 
will shew thee a different monument, erected by my father, a man 
of an upright heart." Daphnis left the herd to Alexis, and led his 
friend through meadows, by the* grove of Terminus, hung with 
the clustering hop. They continued their way. On the right of 
the narrow path, the grass reached their knees. On the left, the 
corn grew; the ears waving above their shoulders. They came to- 
the calm shades of fruitful trees, among which a neat cottage stood. 
Tn this cool and pleasant place, Daphnis spread a small table, and 
brought a basket of fruit, and a refreshing jug of wine; 

* A. ft. 1791, ■ „, 



304 THE FLOWERS OF 

"Tell me," said Micon, "where is the monument thy father 
built, that the first cup may be emptied to the memory of so wor- 
thy a man?" 

"Here, friend,'.' answered Daphnis, "this peaceful abode, what 
thou now beholdcst, is the monument of his fame. This was once 
a barren place; his industry made it fruitful; hishand planted these 
Orchards; to him our thanks, we, who arc his children, and all 
our descendants, for all our enjoyments, for all the good we give 
and receive, for these to him our thanks are due. The blessings 
of the virtuous man rest upon us, and fructifies these fields, these 
meadows, and these silent groves." 

"Here is to thy memory, then, Oh, noble shade!" said Micon, 
and emptied his cup. "Oh worthy monument, conducive to the 
prosperity of virtuous descendants, the founder of which, though 
dead; is still beneficent!" 

It seems to me that a better passage could not have been selected 
from the works of tire poet, for the monument erected to his 
memory: nor could it have been trusted to a more masterly hand 
than that of Trippel, who, recollecting that his labours were for 
the honour of a countryman, must have found his faculties roused; 
and it is evident that he executed his task con amqre. 

At present, this monument is placed under a large awning, on 
the great walk; and it is intended to be erected in a circular grove 
on this very walk; which is beautiful and very much frequented, 
particularly every Sunday after dinner. In the afternoon, on 
Thursday, the youth of Zurich are accustomed to assemble here. 
It is a spacious place, adorned with the linden, poplar, wild ash, 
and other trees; and lies between the Siehl and the Limmat, which, 
at the end of the walk, fall into each other. The minister Bod- 
mer delighted in this walk. I remember having seen him here, 
surrounded and respected by the young and the old. 

Stolberg 



SECTION CIX. 

Presentation of the British Embassador to the Chinese Em- 
peror, at his Summw Residence in Turtary. 

ON the day of the ambassador's presentation to the emperor, most 
of his family attended. No marked preference was perceptible, 
or extraordinary respect shewn to any one of them above the rest. 
On that morning, the ambassador and gentlemen of the embassy, 
went before day-light, as was announced to be proper, to the gar- 
den of the palace of Zhe-hol. The emperor was indeed expected 
not long after the dawn of day. This hour of meeting, so differ- 
ent from that of nations which had passed through the various 
stages of civilization, to the period of indolence and luxury, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS.^ 305 

brought back to recollection the usual hunting occupation of this 
people, whose daily chase began as soon as the rising sun enabled 
them to perceive and pursue their prey. 

Before the emperor's arrival, the ambassador's small tent was 
filled with a succession of persons, whom curiosity excited, or 
civility induced to visit him. Among them was a brother of the 
emperor, a plain unaffected man, somewhat above the middle size, 
and past the middle age; two of the emperor's sons, and as many 
grandsons; the former well looking men, courteous and inquisitive, 
the latter, young, tall, and remarkably handsome. Soon after day- 
light, the sound of several instruments, and the confused voices 
of men at a distance, announced the emperor's approach. He 
soon appeared from behind a high and perpendicular mounlain, 
skirted with trees, as if from a sacred grove, preceded by a num- 
ber of persons busied in proclaiming aloud his virtues and his 
power. He was seated in a sort of open chair, or triumphant car, 
borne by sixteen men, and was accompanied and followed by 
guards, officers of the household, high flag and umbrella bearers, 
and music. He was clad in plain dark silk, with a velvet bonnet, 
in form not much different from the bonnet of Scotch Highlanders^ 
on the front of it, was placed a large pearl, which was the only 
jewel or ornament he appeared to have about him, 

On his entrance into the tent, he immediately mounted the throne 
by the front steps, consecrated to his use alone. The princes of 
his family, the tributaries and great officers of state, being already 
arranged in their respective places in the tent, the president of the 
tribunal of rites, conducted the ambassador, who was attended by 
his page, and Chinese interpreter, and accompanied by the minis- 
ter plenipotentiary, near to the foot of the throne on the left hand 
side, which, according to the usages of China, so often the reverse 
of those of Europe, is accounted the place of honour. 

The ambassador held the large and magnificent square box of 
gold, adorned with jewels, in which was inclosed his majesty's 
letter to the emperor, between both hands lifted above his head; 
and in that manner ascending the few steps that led to the throne, 
and bending on one knee, presented the box, with a short address 
to his imperial majesty, who graciously receiving the same with 
his own hands, placed it by his side, and expressed "the satisfac- 
tion he felt at the testimony which his Britannic majesty gave to 
him of his esteem and good will, in sending him an embassy, with 
a letter and rare presents; that he, on his part, entertained senti- 
ments of the same kind towards the sovereign of Great Britain a 
and hoped that harmony should always be maintained among their 
respective subjects." 

This mode of reception of the representative of the king of 

Great Britain, was considered by the Chinese court, as particularly 

honourable and distinguished: ambassadors being seldom received 

bv the emperor on his throne, or their credentials delivered by 

39 



306 THE FL0AVE11S OF 

them into his own hands, but into that of one of his courtiers. 
These distinctions, so little material in themselves, were however, 
understood by this refined people, as significant of a change in the 
opinions of their government in respect to the English, and made 
a favourable impression on their minds. 

His imperial majesty, after a little more conversation with the 
ambassador, gave, as the first present from him to his majesty, a 
gem, or precious stone, as it is called by the Chinese, and ac- 
counted by them of high value. It was upwards of a foot in 
length, and curiously carved into a form intended to resemble a 
sceptre, such as is always pl-.ced upon the imperial throne, and 
is considered as emblematic of prosperity and peace. 

The Chinese etiquette requiring that ambassadors should, be- 
sides the presents brought in the name of the sovereign, offer 
others on their own part, his excellency, and the minister, or, as 
the Chinese called him, the inferior ambassador, respectfully pre- 
sented theirs, which his imperial majesty condescended to receive, 
and gave in return others to them. Those presents were probably, 
on both sides, less valuable in the estimation of the receivers than 
in that of the doners; but were mutually acceptable, upon the con- 
sideration of being tokens of respect on the one part, and of 
favour and good will on the other. 

During these ceremonies, his imperial majesty appeared per- 
fectly unreserved, cheeiful, and unaffected. Far from being of a 
dark and gloomy aspect, as he had sometimes been represented, 
his eyes were full and clear, and his countenance open. Such, at 
least, it appeared during the whole time of the interview with the 
ambassador, which was lengthened by the necessity of interpret- 
ing whatever was said by either party, which rendered the com- 
munication extremely tedious. 

His imperial majesty, adverting to the inconvenience arising 
from such a circumstance, enquired from Hochoong-taung. whether 
any person of the embassy understood the Chinese lauguage; and 
being informed that the embassador's page, a boy then in his thir- 
teenth year, had alone made some proficiency in it, the ambassador 
had the curiosity to have the youth brought up to the throne, and 
desired him to speak Chinese. Either what he said, or his mod- 
est countenance, or manner, was so pleasing to his imperial 
majesty, that he took from his girdle a purse, hanging from it for 
holding ai-eca nut, am' presented it to him. 

Purses are the ribbands of the Chinese monarch, which he dis- 
tributes as rewards of merit among his subjects; but his own purse 
was deemed a mark of personal favour, according to the ideas of 
eastern nations, among whom any thing worn by the person of the 
sovereign, is prized beyond all other gifts. It procured for the young 
favourite, the notice and caresses of many of the mandarines, 
while others perhaps envied his good fortune. This imperial 
purse is not at all magnificent, being of plain yellow silk, with 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 307 

the figure of the five clawed dragon, and some Tartar characters, 
worked into it. 

Throughout the day, the emperor's attention to his European 
guests did not abate. During the repast, he sent them several 
dishes from his own table; and, when it was over, he sent for 
them, and presented with his own hands to them, a goblet of 
warm Chinese wine, not unlike Madeira of an inferior quality. 
He asked the ambassador the age of his own sovereign: of which 
being informed, he immediately replied, that he heartily wished 
him to equal himself in years, which had already amounted to 
eighty-three, and with as perfect health. He was indeed so hale 
and vigorous, that he scarcely appeared to have existed as many 
years, (fifty-seven) as in fact, he had governed the empire. When 
the festival was entirely over, and he descended from his throne, 
he marched firm and erect, and without the least symptom of in- 
firmity, to the open chair that was waiting for him. 

Saon after the ambassador's return home, he received from the 
emperor, presents of silks, porcelain, and tea, for himself and all 
the gentlemen of his suite. The silks were generally of a close 
and firm texture, and of a grave colour, such as were worn by men. 
Some were woven into patterns of dresses, with the four clawed 
dragon, or imperial tiger: and some with the Chinese pheasant 
embroidered in silk of tints more lively than the ground; the 
former intended for military, and the latter for civil mandarines 
of rank. The porcelain consisted of detached pieces, slightly 
differing in form from those which are generally exported. The 
tea was made up in balls of different sizes, by means of glutinous 
liquid, which united the leaves together without altering their 
qualities; the tea thus preserving its original flavour. It is brought 
from the southern province of Yannan, and is not usually im- 
ported into England. This species of tea is highly prized in 
China; but habit has so much power over taste, that the English 
preferred that to which they had been accustomed. 

Among the presents of fruit which were occasionally sent to 
the ambassador, were some white grapes of an uncommon form, 
being more oblong than olives, and about the size of the olives of 
Spain. 

Almost every intercourse in China between superiors and infe- 
riors, is accompanied or followed by reciprocal presents; but those 
made by the former are granted as donations, while those on the 
part of the latter, are accepted as offerings. 

His imperial majesty has written poems, which indicate taste 
and fancy, with an attentive view of nature. They are less re- 
markable for invention, than for philosophical and moral truths; 
and resemble more the epics of Voltaire, than those of Milton. 
He presented a few stanzas to the ambassador for his majesty, 
together with some curious and precious gems, which he particu- 
larly valued, from having been eight centuries in his family; anci 



308 THE FLOWEHS OP 

gave them as an earnest of perpetual friendship. He was also 
fond of painting and drawing, and kept the few missionaries em- 
ployed who were capable of cultivating those arts. 

The emperor divides his time according to the seasons; the win- 
ter in his Chinese, the summer in his Tartar territories. Mouk- 
den is the capital of the ancient possessions of his family, which 
he has greatly embellished and enlarged, and where he is supposed 
to have accumulated vast treasures; as if he still distrusted the hold 
he has of China, where indeed he is considered as a stranger. 

Every male in China, of Tartar parents or descent, is allowed 
a stipend from his birth, and is registered among the servants ol 
the prince. These form his body guards, to whom his personal 
safety is confided. Such a preference of Tartars, apparently par- 
tial and impolitic, was deemed absolutely necessary in the com- 
mencement of the dynasty, when the conquest of the country 
was not complete; and little reliance was to be placed on the 
fidelity of those who had been vanquished. 

Sir G. Staunton. 



SECTION CX. 

Progress of the Embassy, along the river Peiho, towards 

the capital of China Burying ground detached from 

temples — Singular ceremony of respect toivards the Em- 
peror — Ice applied to fruits — Bread not baked — Chinese 
theatre — Wheelbarrows with sails. 

THE approach of the embassy was an event of which the re- 
port spread rapidly among the neighbouring towns and villages. 
Several of these were visible from the barges upon the river. 
Crowds of men were assembled on the banks, some of whom 
waited a considerable time to see the procession pass, while the 
females, as shy as the} 7 were curious, looked through gates, or 
peeped over walls to enjoy the sight. A few, indeed, of the an- 
cient dames, almost dipped their little feet into the river, in 
order to get a nearer peep; but the younger part of the sex gen- 
erally kept in the back ground. The strangers, on their part, 
were continually amused and gratified with a succession of new 
objects. The face of the country, the appearance of the people, 
presented, in almost every instance, something different from 
what offers to the view elsewhere. And a general sentiment pre- 
vailed, that it was well worth while to have travelled to such a 
distance, to behold a country which promised to be interesting in 
every respect. 

On one side of the river was a large grove, of high and wide 
spreading pines; near and amongst which were discovered, several 
^monuments of stone, erected to the memory of persons buried 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 309 

underneath. No temple was in the neighbourhood of this ceme- 
tery. However, a view of the repositories of the dead may in- 
crease the disposition to seriousness and piety in buildings conse- 
crated to public worship; considerations of health towards the 
living, may have been thought sufficient in China, to keep those 
places entirely separate. 

The fleet which conveyed the embassy, stopped nearly in the 
centre of the city of Tien-sing, and opposite to a pavilion, Avhere 
the viceroy waited for the ambassador. The literal signification 
of the Chinese name, Tien-sing, is heavenly spot; an appellation 
which it claims as situated in a genial climate, a fertile spot, a dry 
air, and a serene sky. Itistbe general emporium for the northern 
provinces of China, and is built at the confluence of two rivers, 
from which it rises in a general slope. The palace of the gover- 
nor stands on a projecting point, from whence it commands the 
prospect of a broad basin, or expanse of water, produced by the 
union of the rivers, and which is almost covered with vessels of 
different sizes. 

Along the quays were some temples, and other handsome edifi* 
ces, but the rest consisted chiefly of shops for the retail of goods, 
and also warehouses, together with yards and magazines for mari- 
time stores. The private houses presented little more than dead 
walls in front, the light only coming to them from interior courts. 
The spectators were mostly in the streets, and upon the vessels, 
literally covering the water opposite thecity. Few females were 
mixed with those spectators. The crowds, however, were im- 
mense, not only from the highest ground to the water's edge; but 
hundreds were actually standing in the water, in order to approach 
nearer to the spectacle of the vessels which conveyed the strang- 
ers. As these could not be incommoded by the crowd, nothing 
like soldiers or constables interfered with the movements of the 
people. Yet in all the ardour of curiosity, the people themselves 
preserved a great degree of decency and regularity in their de- 
meanour. Not the least dispute seemed to take place among them; 
and, from a sense of mutual accommodation, none of the common 
Chinese, who usually wear straw hats, kept on theirs, while the 
procession of the embassy was passing, lest they should obstruct 
the view of other persons behind them, though their bare heads 
were thus exposed to a scorching sun. The gradual rise, on every 
side, from the water to the furthest extremity of the eity, ren- 
dered the whole one great amphitheatre. It was literally lined 
with heads, one behind and a little above the other. Every face 
was seen; and the number appeared to surpass any former multi- 
tude observed in the country. 

The ambassador was received on shore by the viceroy; and the 
emperor's legate, a body of Chinese troops being drawn up behind 
them. The weather being very warm, several of the troops car- 
ried fans together with their military arms. Fans are worn irj 



Jl '!UE 1'i.OW JiltS Ol 

China equally by both sexes, and by all ranks; and this u;>e of them, 
at a military parade, will appear less surprising to those who have 
observed sometimes, officers in other parts of the east, exercising 
their battalions with umbrellas over their heads. 

The viceroy conducted the ambassador with- the principal gen- 
tlemen, into the pavilion, at the upper end of which was a dark- 
ened recess, or sanctuary, where the majesty of the emperor was 
supposed to be constantly residing; and to that majesty it was signi- 
fied that a respectful obeisance should be paid; which, however 
singular, was accordinly performed by a profound inclination of 
the body. 

The throng of visits to the ambassador was considerable at 
Tien-sing, from the several civil and military officers of the place. 
In seeking out for the nearest resemblance between these persons 
and Europeans, the character of gentlemen of rank in France, 
while monarchy subsisted there, occurred readily to the mind. 
An engaging urbanity of manners, instantaneous familiarity, ready 
communicativeness, together with a sense of self-approbation, and 
the vanity of national superiority, piercing through every dis- 
guise, seem to constitute their character. 

Though tea be the general beverage of all the Chinese, though 
they drink it between meals, and present it to their guests on vis- 
its at all hours; yet strong, and particularly spirituous liquors, are 
sometimes relished by them, especially in the northern provinces. 
When the company begins to be exhilirated, and some of the 
party are desirous of retiring, the same compulsory devices are 
described to be practiced for preventing their departure, or recall- 
ing them, if already gone away, as have sometimes been used on 
similar occasions of convivial merriment in Europe. 

As to eating, the mandarines did indulge themselves in habits of 
luxury. They eat several meals each day, of animal food, highly 
seasoned; each meal consisting of several courses. They .em- 
ploy parts of their intervals of leisure in smoking tobacco, mixed 
with odorous substances, and sometimes a little opium, or in chew- 
ing the areca nut. Though books of entertainment, such as histo- 
ries, plays, and novels, abound in China, reading was not there 
become so universal an amusement as it is now in all the polished 
parts of Europe. Sedentary gratifications of the senses, rather 
than exercises of the body, or pleasure of the mind, seemed to 
be the resources principally thought of in vacant hours. 

Persons of rank in China, are so careful about the quality of the 
water intended for their consumption, that they seldom drink any 
without its being distilled; and every Chinese infuses tea, or some 
other vegetable, supposed to be salubrious, in -the water which ne 
uses. It is generally taken hot, as is indeed wine, and every 
other liquid; and habit has that effect upon the senses, that 
fermented and spirituous liquors made hot are thought agreeable, 
as well as salutary. In other climates, warm beverages are also 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 311 

found most wholesome. In the hot climate of Hindostan, choul- 
tries, or inns, are founded along some of the public roads, as build- 
ings for pious uses are elsewhere. In those choultries, weak, but 
warm liquors are provided for all travellers. The Chinese enjoy, 
however, in hot weather, the grateful coolness produced by ice, sel- 
dom indeed applied to any of their liquors; but principally to fruit 
and sweetmeats, which thus may be justly termed refreshments. In 
bowls, which are generally used in China instead of dishes, alter- 
nate layers were placed, of ice, together with kernels of apricots 
and walnuts, or the seeds and slices of the hairy root of the Sien- 
wha, or nymphsea nelumbo, probably the lotus of the Egyptians; 
and were frequently presented to the ambassador and suite at 
breakfast, given by some of the principal mandarines. 

Baking: bread is as little common in China as roasting meat. No 
proper oven is to be seen in this part of the country. Instead of 
bread, boiled rice, or other '-grain, is generally used. The rice 
swells considerably in boiling; and this operation is supposed to 
answer as to the wholesomeness or facility of digestion, the pur- 
pose of the fermentation of the dough in regard to bread. Wheat 
grows in many provinces in China. That grain, also, called buck- 
wheat, produces flour, which, when freed entirely from the bran, 
is perfectly white, and is frequently, as well as other flour, made 
by the Chinese, into the form of cakes. These, by exposure to 
steam, are reduced to the consistence of dumplings. 

The Chinese method of dressing victuals, consists chiefly in 
stewing animal substances, divided into small square morsels, 
mixed with vegetables, and seasoning them with a variety of sa- 
voury sauces, and a combination of opposite tastes. 

Among other instances o( the viceroy's attention to the ambas- 
sador, a temporary theatre was erected opposite to his excellency's 
yacht. The outside was adorned with a variety of brilliant and 
lively colours, by the proper distribution of which, and sometimes 
by their contrast, it is the particular object of an art among the 
Chinese to produce a gay and pleasing effect. The inside of the 
theatre was managed, in regard to decorations, with equal success; 
and the company of actors successively exhibited, during the 
the whole day, several different pantomimes and historical dramas. 
The performers were habited in the ancient dresses of the Chinese, 
at the period when the personages represented were supposed to 
have lived. The dialogue was spoken in a kind of recitative, 
accompanied by a variety of musical instruments; and each pause 
was filled up by a loud crash, in which the loo bore no inconsider- 
able part. The band of music was placed in full view, imme- 
diately behind the stage, which was broad, but by no means deep. 
Each character announced, on his first entrance, what he was 
about to perform, and where the scene of action lay. Unity of 
place was apparently preserved, for there was no change of scene 



312 TJIE FLOWERS OF 

during the representation of one piece. Female characters were 
performed by boys or eunuchs. 

The custom mentioned by some old travellers, of the Chinese 
applying sails to carriages by land, is still in some degree retained. 
It was probably observed in parts less fertile than the borders of 
the Pei-ho; for Milton mentions — 

"The barren plains 
"Of Sericana, where Chineses drive 
"With sails and wind their cany waggeTis light." 

Those cany waggons are small carts, or double barrows; of bam- 
boo, with one large wheel between them- When there is no 
wind to favour the progress of such a cart, it is drawn by a man. 
who is regularly harnessed to it, while another keeps it stead v 
from behind, besides assisting in pushing it forward. The sail, 
when the wind is favourable, saves i_;e labour of the former of 
these two men. It consists only of a mat, fixed between two poles 
rising from the opposite sides of the cart. This simple contri- 
vance can only be of use when the cart is intended to run before 
the wind; and was probably the resource of an individual, who 
wished to have no companion of his labour, and partner of his pro- 
fits, or who happened not to meet one. 

Sir G. Staunton. 



SECTION cxr. 
Reflections on Switzerland — Manners — Amusements. 

DURING the period of that new species of tyranny, which 
assumed the name of revolutionary government, I was not merely 
involved in the common danger which threatened every indi- 
vidual in France, but had claims of proscription. It was not only 
remembered by many of the satellites of Robespierre, that I had been 
the friend of the Girondc, of madame Roland, martyred names, 
which it was death to pronounce; but, that I had written a work, 
published in England, in which I had traced without reserve the 
character of our oppressors; whose ferocious purposes I had often 
heard developed with the glowing eloquence of Vergniaud, and 
the indignant energy of La Source. No danger could be more 
eminent than that of living under the very tyranny, which I had 
the perilous honour of having, been one of the first to depreciate, 
and to proclaim. 

In this situation an opportunity presented itself of obtaining a 
passport for Switzerland. The road from Paris to Basil, leads for 
the most part along a level country, which displays a picture of 
fertility, but few scenes of beauty or grandeur, except a branch of 
the Vosges, which we traversed near Belfort, and whose swelling 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 3*13 

mountains, presenting faint traces of those we were going to con- 
template, we saw bounding our horizon, and stretching along the 
plains of Alsace. 

I found Basil crowded with strangers of all ranks, and all na- 
tions; being, at that period, when general hostility had barred the 
passes from one country to another, almost the only spot left open 
for transactions of commerce, the asylum of the fugitives, and the 
dawning negociations of peace. 

The first view of Switzerland awakened my enthusiasm most 
powerfully. "At length/' thought I, ''am I going to contem- 
plate that interesting country, of which I have never heard with- 
out emotion! I am going to gaze upon images of nature; images 
of which the idea has so swelled my imagination, but which my 
eyes have never yet beheld. I am going to repose my wearied 
spirit on those sublime objects, — to sooth my desponding heart, 
with the hope that the moral disorder I have witnessed shall be 
rectified, while I gaze on nature in all her admirable perfections; 
and how delightful a transition shall I find in the picture of social 
happiness which Switzerland presents! I shall no longer see lib- 
erty profaned and violated; here she smiles upon the hills and 
decorates the valleys, and finds, in the uncorrupted simplicity of 
this people, a firmer barrier than in the cragginess of their rocks, or 
the snows of the Glaciers!" 

Such were my meditations, when I first set my foot on the soil 
of Switzerland. The scenery of the country more than fulfilled 
the glowing promise of imagination. With respect to the char- 
acter and manners of the people, a residence of several weeks at 
Basil somewhat chilled my enthusiasm. I had frequent opportu- 
nities of mixing in their societies, and discerned neither the love 
of arts, of literature, of liberty, nor of any earthly good, but 
money. I heard of nothing but the comparative value of louis d'or 
and assignats; and if I had not seen the Rhine rolling its turbulent 
waves majestically by the windows, I might have fancied myself 
in Change-alley, or the Perron of the Palais Royal. 

But if I was disappointed, it was perhaps my own fault, or 
rather the fault of former travellers. Warmed with enthusiasm 
for the natural beauties of the country, fancy, which loves the 
dreams of happiness and perfection, has delighted to associate with 
those enchanting scenes, the charm of congenial society; and to 
connect with the sublime landscape, the higher qualities of mind. 
Imagination places stock-jobbers and usurers with as much reluct- 
ance amidst the grandeur of Swiss soenery, as it would fill with 
a mis-shapen Gothic image, the niche of a Grecian temple. It must 
be indeed admitted, that the love of gold is a taste pretty gen- 
erally diffused throughout Europe; that neither the inhabitants of 
Paris nor of London, can be taxed with any remarkable indiffer- 
ence for riches; nor Have wealthy persons in either of those capi- 
tals, any reason to complain of the neglect of their fellow-citizens, 
40 



314 THE PL0WE11S OF 

But although the people of most countries, arc, with respect to 
the researches of gain, burghers of Basil, during- the hours of the 
morning, the evening at least is devoted to amusement, to social 
pleasure, to friendship, to some object that cheers or sooths the 
heart; and the projects of interest are laid aside till to-morrow. 
At Basil alone, the toils of trade find no relaxation. They begin 
with the day, but do not finish at its close; since even the hours 
of recreation are made subservient to the views of interest; and 
the only species of amusement in which the burghers of that city 
indulge themselves, is one at which they can arrange their commer- 
cial dealings, strike bargains, and vigorously pursue that main 
chance which appears to be, their "being's end and aim." 

With those views, the men have formed themselves into differ- 
ent societies, called tabagies, or smoking clubs, because all the 
members smoke most furiously. . Each club is composed of nearly 
the same age, a custom to which the love of equality perhaps gave 
rise, but which is observed to be extremely prejudicial to the man- 
ners of the young men of Basil, by excluding all forms of defer- 
ence and politeness, as well as all means of improvement. With 
respect to these things, there is indeed nothing peculiar to the 
clubs of Basil, since from Brookes', composed of the honourable 
members of the British parliament, to these tabagies filled with 
the senators of the laudable Helvetic body, a man who has long 
frequented such meetings, becomes entirely unfit for all other 
society; he soon thinks it a hardship to pass an evening elsewhere, 
and terms all other company constraint, because it wants the ease 
of a tavern, where tumult is mistaken for gaiety, and familiarity 
for friendship. But while in other places the taste for clubs is 
confined to a few persons, Basil is a town of clubbists, containing 
no less than twelve smoking societies, each composed of about 
sixty members, who meet every afternoon at an early hour, drink 
tea amidst the exhilarating fumes of tobacco, discuss the political 
situation, but far more indefatigably, the commercial affairs of the 
town, calculate the gains and losses of the day, form new schemes 
of acquiring wealth; and separate at the hour of supper, before 
they have said one word on any subject of taste, or literature. 

The ladies of Basil, abandoned by the men, have recourse to 
clubs also, and sometimes twenty ladies assemble together, with- 
out one man being of the party; although, to such as present them- 
selves, admittance, far from being refused, is even gratefully ac- 
corded; and sometimes a stranger, taking advantage of the posture 
of affairs at Basil, which leads a coterie of young handsome 
women, to consider his company as a favour, pays his homage to 
the ladies, while clouds of other incense are rising in every 
quarter of the town, from the tabagies where their absent hus- 
bands are convened. 

The female societies of Basil, are formed from infancy of child- 
ren of the same age, and of the same class; and during their 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 315 

childhood, the equality of years is so strictly observed in the 
societies, that sisters, whose ages differ three or four years, have 
their several coteries in the same house.— There is something 
soothing in the idea of these infant associations; it seems form- 
ing another barrier for our helpless sex, against the future tempests 
of the world; and no doubt, many a fair member of those young 
societies, when assailed by those storms of misfortune, which 
often beat with the most pitiless fury against hearts that can least 
resist their violence, recalls with tender regret, the social circle of 
her childhood; and perhaps finds, in the sympathy of some female 
companion, to whom she is endeared by the charm of those early 
recollections, a source of consolation and relief. The young un- 
married women and the dowagers, have all their distant circles, 
sometimes increased by an admission of sisters-in-law, who become 
part of the family, and sometimes by the introduction of acci= 
dental acquaintance. 

They assemble by invitation, successively at each other's houses, 
usually at three in the afternoon; an hour which, though morning 
with respect to dinner and all the busy occupations of life at Lon- 
don and Paris, finds the day far advanced at Basil; where dinner 
is served, when it is noon by the clocks of that city, which, for 
several centuries past, have kept the vanguard of "time, and for 
some reason, forgotten in the lapse of ages, probably because not 
worth being remembered, strike twelve in defiance of common 
3ense and convenience, when the solar shadow points eleven. 

The ladies present themselves at their coteries, with their 
work-bags upon their arms, and work and conversation begin 
together; the latter turns, as in other uninstructed minds, upon 
the every-day's gossip of ordinary life. When the domestic de- 
tail of household anecdote and the tattle of town scandal fail, they 
hasten to cards — what other resource is left? Time cannot be filled 
up, as it often is in mixed societies, by the flattery of coquetry 
and the arts of affectation on one side, and by the offices of gallan- 
try or the stare of libertinism on the other, 

"Where none admire, 'tis useless to excel; 
Where none are beaux, 'tis vain to be a belle." 

At those assemblies, the place of honour is at the window, to 
which, in every house in Basil, convex mirrors are fixed, and give 
a view of all that is passing in the streets to a considerable dis- 
tance. These mirrors, consulted every moment by the ladies of 
Basil, not to view themselves, but their neighbours, would have fur- 
nished Thomson, had he lived in that city, with another image 
in his Castle of Indolence, of the means of murdering time. 

Tea is brought at four in the afternoon, accompanied by a hand- 
some collation, consisting of pastry, fruits, creams, and sweat- 
meats, and often of ham, and other cold meats. This substantial 



3JG THE FLOWERS OF 

kind of refreshment, is not found unacceptable after a very copi- 
ous dinner, and with the perspective of a solid supper; the Swiss, 
in general, being possessed of a most powerful appetite, perhaps 
arising from the keenness of their mountain air. A dull game of 
commerce drags on the lingering hours till eight in the evening, 
when the ladies separate, after a profusion of compliments, which 
they have not yet relinquished for the French mode of gliding 
out of the room. 

Sometimes their liege-lords, the clubbists, make a sacrifice of 
one dear evening of smoking and stockjobbing, to the women; 
on these gala occasions, the card party concludes with a supper, 
sufficiently luxurious, but which might be more amusing; and as 
the law forbids any carriages to roll through the streets after 
eleven, the company usually separates at that hour. 

Fathers and mothers of families, who have children married, 
fix one day of the week, which they call leur jour de fam- 
ilies when all their offspring assemble at their house at dinner, 
sometimes to the fourth, fifth and even sixth generation; for the 
women marry very young, and not long since, there was not less 
than six ladies in Basil, whose grand-children were grand-mothers. 
There is something respectable, and even affecting, in these patri- 
archal meetings; they seem a means of drawing closer those ties 
of consanguinity, which are the best refuge against human ills; in 
which the purest affections of the heart mingle themselves with 
the wants and weakness of our nature; guiding with watchful 
tenderness, the wanderings of youth, and supporting, with un- 
wearied care, the feebleness of age. 

The public amusements of Basil, were suspended by the magis- 
trates, we were told, on account of the public calamities; the chief 
of which was the dearness of provisions: an evil the more easily 
to be born, as the town was then reaping an abundant harvest of 
gold from the calamities of other countries. Once a week, indeed, 
the dullness of a card assembly, was permitted to replace that of 
the coteries; and an occasional concert harmonised the soul; but 
dancing was a diversion too light for the times, and even a set of 
dancing-dogs, offending against the statute, were formally expelled 
by Chasse-coquin, probably, in consequence of the general order 
of the commission of six, instituted at that period, for clearing 
the town of unprofitable strangers. 

Miss Williams. 



SECTION CXII. 

Of Lavater — Mons. La Harpe. 

WE staid long enough at Zurich to visit its first literary ornament-, 
Lavater. It being known that he is willing to receive strangers,' 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 317 

no traveller of lettered curiosity passes through the town, without 
paying him the homage of a visit- 
He received us in his library, which was hung thick with por- 
traits and engravings, of which he has a considerable collection, 
forming a complete study of the ever varying expression of the 
human face divine. Some very wise men, who admit of no scope 
to that faculty of the mind, called imagination, and are forever 
bringing every theory to the square and the compass, consider his 
system of physiognomy as the fantastic vision of a heated brain; 
but though it may be difficult, it is surely ingenious and interesting, 
to attempt reducing to rules, a science which seems to be founded 
in nature. It is surely curious to analyse what it is so easy to 
feel, the charm of that expression, which is the emanation of moral 
qualities; that undefinable grace, which is not beauty, but some- 
thing more; without which, its enchantments lose their power of 
fascination, and which can shed an animated glow, a spark of di- 
vinity, over the features of deformity: 

"Mind, mind alone, bear witness earth and heaven, 
"The living fountain in itself contains 
"Of beauteous and sublime." 

Lavater is a venerable looking old man, with a sharp long face, 
high features, and a wrinkled brow; he is tall, thin, and interest- 
ing in his figure; when serious, he has the lbok of melancholy, 
almost of inquietude; but when he smiles, his countenance becomes 
^ghted up with an expression of sweetness and intelligence. 
There is a simple eloquence in his conversation, an effusion of the 
heart, extremely attractive: he speaks French with some diffi- 
culty, and whenever he is at a loss for an expression, has recourse 
to German, which I in vain begged a Swiss gentleman, who was 
of our party, to translate for me: he told me, that for the most 
part, the German words Lavater employed, were compound epi- 
thets of his own framing, which had peculiar energy as he used 
them, but which would be quite vapid and spiritless in translation,, 

The great rule of moral conduct, Lavater said, in his opinion, 
was, next to God, to respect time. Time he considered as the 
most valuable of human treasures, and any waste of it, as in the 
highest degree immoral. He rises every morning at the hour oi 
five; and though it would be agreeable to him to breakfast immedi- 
ately after rising, he makes it an invariable rule to earn that repast 
by some previous labour; so that if, by accident, the rest of the 
day is spent to no useful purpose, some portion of it may, at least, 
be secured beyond the interruptions of chance. 

Lavater gave us a most pleasing account of morals in Zurich. 
He had been a preacher of the gospel, he said, in that town thirty 
years; and so incapable were the citizens of any species of corrup- 
tion, that he should have rendered himself ridiculous, had he ever s 



>1S juji flowers of 

during that long ptfcfud, preached a sermon against it. "At what 
a distance," thought I, "am I arrived from London and Paris!" 

When we took our leave of Lavater, he begged we would write 
our names and place of abode, in a book which he appropriates to 
the use of inscribing the long list of his foreign visitors. An 
hour after my return from his house, he came to pay me a visit, 
which I was taught to consider as an unusual compliment, since 
it is his general rule not to return the visits of strangers. Religion 
was the theme of his discourse, and he talked of its pleasures, its 
consolations, and its hopes, with a solemn sort of enthusiastic fervor, 
which shewed how much his heart was interested in the subject, 
and how warmly his sensibility was awake to devotional feelings. 
Although his zeal was not without knowledge, yet it was somewhat 
difficult to discover what was his system of belief: whether he 
was of Paul or Apollos, a follower of Calvin, according to the 
established creed of the Swiss church, or whether he was not in 
some sort the framer of a new doctrine himself. 

One of my fellow-travellers, who was anxious to wrest from 
the venerable pastor his confession of faith, brought. in review 
before him the various opinions of the fathers, orthodox and here- 
tic; from Justin Martyr and Origen, down to the bishop of St. 
Davids' and Dr. Priestly. But Lavater did not appear to have 
made polemics his study. He seemed to think right and wrong, 
in historical fact, of far less importance than right and wrong in 
religious sentiment; and, above all, in human action. There was 
more of feeling than of logic in his conclusions; and he appeared? 
to have taken less pains to examine religion, than to apply its pre- 
cepts to the regulations of those frailties and passions of the human 
heart, the traces of which, hidden from others, he had marked 
with such admirable accuracy in the character and expression of 
outward forms. For myself, I own the solemn, meek, affection- 
ate expression of Lavater's pious sentiments, was peculiarly sooth- 
ing to my feeling, after having been so long stunned with the cavils 
of French philosophers, or rather the impertinent comments of 
their disciples, who are so proud of their scepticism, that they 
are forever obtruding it in conversation. The number of those 
disciples is augmented since the revolution, which has spread far 
and wide the writings of Rousseau and Voltaire; and every 
Frenchman, after having read those authors, though he may neither 
have taste enough to admire the charms of their genius, nor virtue 
to feel the philanthropy of their sentiments, has, at least, acquired 
sufficient knowledge to assume the appellation of philosopher, 
and prove his claim to that title, by enlisting himself under the 
banner of infidelity, without knowing the use of his arms. 

This irreverence for religion, however, which Mr. Burke con- 
sidered as one of the primary causes of the French revolution, is 
not, as heretofore, the ton amongst persons of former rank and 
fashion; infidelity has been in disgrace with that clase, ever sincje 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS* 319 

it was profaned by the vulgar Jacobin touch; and the only dis- 
tinguished trophies that system can now boast, are a few Anti- 
Newtonian flights with respect to final causes, from astronomic 
infidels. The .aristocracy were no sooner convinced that the Cath- 
olic establishment, and, above all, the non-juring priests, were 
their best auxiliaries, than all the elegant women of Paris, became 
immediately devotees, and nothing was heard of in fashionable 
saloons but professions of attachment and respect "pour la relig- 
ion de nos peres;" by which it was well understood, that "more 
was meant than met the ear;" and that these sentiments included 
Ihc government, as well as the creed of their fathers. 

The great director of the consciences of these fair converts, 
drest a la Psyche, was Mows. De la Harpe, a literary man of con- 
siderable infidel reputation under the old regime, the disciple and 
friend of Voltaire, d'Alembert, Diderot, and other encyclopedists, 
and in some sort, a leader of the sect after their decease, or, ac- 
cording to their own creed, after their annihilation. The GamV 
!iel of Mons. La Harpe, was Madame C — T — ; it was at her feet, 
in the gloom of a prison, during the terrific tyranny of the Jaco- 
bins, that this philosopher was brought to the knowledge and belief 
of Christianity. I have before observed, that the noblest exam- 
ples of fortitude and resignation under sufferings, were, during the 
revolutionary government, displayed by women. It was, no doubt, 

in the calmness and imperturbility of Madame C T ? s 

•mind, under the certain expectation of the scaffold, that Mons. 
La Harpe was led to admire the effects of a persuasion, which, her 
eloquence and his own conviction made him afterwards adopt; and 
of which he became, in defiance of all his former opinions, the 
zealous and fashionable advocate. 

The cruel persecution which the Catholic religion had sustained 
from the intolerant Jacobins, had produced the usual effect of per- 
secution, that of rekindling the pious zeal of a great portion of 
the people of France. They returned to the religion of their 
fathers, not from the same motives as those which influenced the 
fine ladies and gentlemen of Paris, because it was connected with 
regal government; but because, wearied with revolutionary calami- 
ties, they stood in need of the soothing consolations of devotion; 
and the churcjies became crowded places of resort. 

U was not, however, in those religious temples that the illustri- 
ous convert to the Catholic faith, Monsieur La Harpe, became a 
preacher of its doctrines. Like the hero of Mr. Greaves's novel, 
Monsieur La Harpe took courage to attack the devil in his strongest 
holds. Being a person of high literary merit, he had been chosen, 
to fill the rhetorical chair in the Lyceum. From that place, where, 
a few moons before, he had descanted on the glorious conquests of 
philosophy over superstition, and of liberty and the rights of man 
over despotism and slavery, he now poured forth the recantation 
Of his errors in so eloquent and touching a strain, that the neigh- 



320 THE FLOWERS OF 

bouring square and streets re-echoed the long and tumultuou's ap- 
plauses of his fair auditory, for the majority were always ladies. 

The lecturer not satisfied with the victory gained over infidelity 
in this scat of science, of which it had been so long in possession, 
pursued that pernicious system into another of its fortresses, the 
regions of pleasure. Monsieur La Harpe becoming a Catholic, 
was too singular an event not to attract general notice; and as Ca- 
tholicism happened to be in fashion, the proprietors of various places 
of amusement thought a few lectures from Monsieur La Harpe, on 
"the religion of our fathers," would be no unprofitable speculation. 
Accordingly the splendid walks and fairy bowers of Idalia, which, 
till then, had only re-echoed the sounds of gaiety and pleasure, 
now resounded with the vehement imprecations of La Harpe against 
that vile '-evolutionary philosophy of the rights of man, which had 
overthrown the religion of our fathers. 

Monsieur La Harpe continued to be the rage in Paris, till he 
was succeeded by another fashionable novelty, which happened to 
be Abraham EiTendi, the Turkish ambassador. Upon Abraham 
EfFendi's arrival, the fashionable and butterfly tribe forsook once 
more "the religion of their fathers," a fahric long since undcrmin* 
ed, and now hastening to decay, after gilding, for a moment, its 
venerable ruins with their glittering wings. 

Miss Williams. 

SECTION CXIII. 

Of the Theophiianthropists. 

ABOUT this time a sect arose, which threatened more formida- 
ble danger to the Roman Catholic religion, than all the edicts oi 
Jacobin ferocity. This seer, distinguished by the name of Theo- 
philanthropists, the friends of God and man, had formed various 
little societies in Paris, before their opinions w re publicly known. 
The simplicity of their worship, somewhat resembling that of the 
Dissenters in England, gained the attention of a few lettered men, 
and the benevolence of their doctrines became the public theme of 
panegyric of a member of the Directory, La Reveillere Lepaux, 
who published a pamphlet, the object of which was to raise these 
doctrines into repute, by shewing the inconsistency of the Roman 
Catholic religion with liberty. This pamphlet was answered by 
Gregoire, the learned and patriotic bishop of Blois, with much 
warmth, as a calumny against the nation; since the great majority, 
he asserted, were both Catholics and republicans, and the most 
democratic governments in Europe, the smaller cantons of Switz- 
erland, were steadfast in that belief. 

La Reveillere Lepaux obtained the title of high-priest of the new 
sect, which, thus raised into notice, became the object of various 
,#alumn.ies. Some asserted it to be a nest of terrorists, who, under 



rT »£:BSATED TRAVELLERS; 3£i 

the mask of religion, and the liberty allowed to every kind of wor- 
ship, met only to frame the means of bringing round again their 
late system. Others were assured that this sect was nothing but a 
band of atheists and philosophers, who assembled only to propagate 
prirag|gj^s, which disbelieving themselves, they intended to make 
instfewSferits of rooting out the Catholic faith. 

Atheists and Jacobins, perhaps, mingle in these congregations; 
but the mass appears to be composed of people of decent charac- 
ters and manners, who, discontented with their former creeds, 
have embraced this worship till they are provided with a better. 

In their prayers, they invoke the Supreme Being as the author 
and governor of the universe; they sing Frymns of grateful ac- 
knowledgment for his bounties, and fill up the hours of their 
worship, with a discourse on some moral subject, in which the 
obligations to maintain liberty, and keep inviolate the laws of the 
republic, are never forgotten. The better informed among the 
Theophilanthropes, are believers in Christianity, while others affect 
to talk with disdain of what they call the christian sect, unwilling 
to admit, or probably ignorant, that Christianity is the sole founda- 
tion on which rests their own scanty belief. 

Miss Wwiiams. 



SECTION CXIW 

/ 
/ 

Ornamented Graves at Balstah 

AT Balstal, a village situated near Mount J ura ^ t 7on? 'Vhe 
a cataract; of which we had heard a magnificent cjj|^ k ad dr j ec i UD 
rocky channel was bold and romantic, but th^^j Q £ ^ village 
its waters. Our path lay through the chuj^ homage paid to f h( f 
and we were particularly struck with the gilded tomb-stones and 
memory of the dead, not only in^ over the ground, but in the 
painted crosses, which were stuck ^ grave itself an air of anima _ 
humble affection which had pg violetj and other swe et-scented 
tion by planting the pink beneath which reposed the moulder- 
herbs, on the green mojr murky atm osphere and repulsive gloom 
ing dust. Instead o/j ead> the c hurch-yard, placed amidst woods, 
of a receptacle ot ral hiJIs? and emitting the sweet f ragrance Q f 

° f' Srins^S flowers, and the fresh garlands which were hung 
.,ancl the tombs, excited pleasing images of hope to the mind, and 
led to soothing meditation. I recollected the wish of Ossian, 
"0 lay me, ye that see the light, near some rocks of my hills; let 
the thick hazels be around; let the rustling oak be near. Green 
be the place of my rest; and let the sound of the distant torrent be 
heard." 

41 



322 THE FLOWERS Or 

How remote from these tender cares of mourning humanity is 
the treatment observed in France towards the dead; and which 
might seem a relapse to barbarism, if we did not find, even among 
the most savage nations, some civilized marks of human rever- 
ence, some decent ceremonial, paid to the relics -of our mortal 
nature! It might perhaps be necessary, to restrain the display of 
that vanity which, before the revolution, decked its mockery of 
woe with idle pomp and pageantry; but stern, indeed, must be the 
reformer, who admires that cold-blooded pblosophy which con- 
signs those to whom we are bound by the holiest ties of humanity, 
or the dearest feelings of the heart, without regret, to the unhal- 
lowed proces verbal of a municipal officer, who strides away with 
indecent haste before the yet unstiffened corpse, and hurls it into 
the common pit, among undistinguished heaps of dead. 

During the epocha of the worship of reason, a tacit approbation 
of this annihilation of vulgar prejudices, might have been wrung 
from fear; since at that time, amongst the well-fed monsters in 
<he republic, death and the grave— — 

"Their nostrils wide into the murky air, 
"Sagacious of their quarry" — Milton. 

and reveled on the dead, as their pioneers, terror and Jacobin 
government, rioted on the living. 

, . e returned to Basil on a Sunday morning, time enough to 
join * throng of worshippers at the French proteslant church, 
w ios l jp ec tf u i demeanour and devout attention, formed a singu- 
., „ i ^ing contrast to the coarse impiety we had so lately 
.1" and the^l* s ' wnere we had seen altars overthrown, the suf- 
1 eird the commissi transformed into caparisons for horses; had 
at their Bacchanaliatr ries of revolutionary committees boast, that, 
from sacramental cups-^f , their gross libations had beer, poured 
my was so striking to thosi lad . observed that no political blasphe- 
pect for religion: The pritef 1 . as +t the ^S^test mark of res- 
Swiss towns during divine service shutting up the gates of the 
rias-es, though attended with incoift Prevent the rolling of car- 
pleasing, as it consecrates one day i^nce to travellers, is so xar 
repose The strict observanee of this day e . n > to relaxation and 
forms an agreeable contrast, to the busy, as vve^J^ 1 Z J' ^» 
ner in which both Sunday and Decadi, are passed ii»^ V anct w v h 
festivals being ever at war with each other, neither is celebra^ 
with respect. 

Not only are the stated returns of intervals of rest necessary 
for man, but the voice of mercy calls aloud on the French legisla- 
turej" to interpose between the restless activity or the avarice, of 
the master, and the beast. Nothing is more pleasing, than to ob- 



le 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 323 

serve throughout Switzerland, the care, and even tenderness 
which is shewn to the animal creation; while in France, they feel 
the primary cause of labour inflicted in all its severity. Sunday 
and Decadi alike, the loaded horse drags on his heavy burden; alike 
the merciless lash forever resounds along the streets, and those whose 
nerves are not steeled against every pain but their own, are denied 
the relief of knowing, that an appointed respite from toil is the 
privilege of that miserable race. 

Among the moral diversities of Switzerland, none are marked 
with more precision than their territorial belief. In a ride of 
two or three hours from the canton of Basil into that of Soleure, 
and over a branch of the canton of Berne into that of Lucerne, 
we found ourselves alternately on catholic and protestant ground. 
In whatever cause originated these whimsical boundaries of their 
geographic religion, which heretofore lighted up so often the 
flames of civil dissension, it is soothing to observe, that, since the 
beginning of the present century, the Swiss have observed that 
the sword is not. the most persuasive weapon of religious contro- 
versy. Two religions, that of the Roman church, and an assem- 
blage of dogmas .of the sixteenth century, called the Helvetic 
confession, are the exclusive religions of the Helvetic confederacy. 
Hume has somewhere observed, that the hatred of polemics is 
most inveterate, where the points in dispute are the least remote; 
it is not, therefore, surprising, that civil dissensions in Switzer- 
land should have been carried to such excess, since the faith, for 
which both parties contended, is conceived in the same spirit of 
intolerance, and buried in the same labyrinth of incomprehensi- 
bility. Miss Williams^ 



SECTION CXV. 

Curiosities of Basil — Comparative view of French and Swiss 
Peasantry before the Revolution — Serfs. 

DURING our stay at Basil, we visited, like other travellers, 
the arsenal, the ornaments of which are composed of shields, 
swords, and breastplates, which from their enormous size, would 
crush ten modern citizens of Basil, and reminded us of Nestor's 
speech, where he exclaims — 



"A god-like race of heroes once I knew, 
"Such as no more these aged eyes shall view." — ; 



•Pope's Homeji. 



We then proceeded to the cathedral, a fine piece of architecture, 
but disfigured without, by a coating of red paint: what is most 
interesting within, is the tomb of Erasmus, a frugal tablet of com- 
mon marble stuck against the wall. 



324 thk flowehs or 

At the public library we were shown, with extreme politeness, 
the vaiious and valuable curiosities it contains; such as the collec- 
tion of manuscripts, which is highly precious; manuscript letters 
of Erasmus; the original sketches of most of the fine pictures of 
Holbein, the Passion, painted in the first style of this master; and 
other admirable pieces, worthy of the public library and museum 
of Paris. 

We saw Mr. Mechel's fine collection of engravings; and we 
also visited the hideous series of figures, called the Dance of Death, 
painted by Kleber, a pupil of Holbein. After seeing these, and 
some other less important curiosities, we took leave of our friends 
at Basil, in order to enjoy a view of the sublime and beautiful 
objects of the country. 

A stranger who travels through France into Switzerland, can-, 
not fail to observe the different appearance of the habitations of the 
peasantry of each country. The abject condition of this class in 
France, previous to the revolution, was one of the most prominent 
features of the wretchedness of the government; and sufficient 
time has not yet elapsed to change the external marks of misery. 
The commanding chateau still frowns in gloomy magnificence over 
the mud-walled hut, though the inhabitants are now possessed of 
equal rights. In Switzerland, the peasant's habitation, however 
poor, has the air of comfort and convenience. Every w r ooden cot- 
tage has its garden or orchard; and the limpid brook, running be- 
fore the door of the thatch, gives the whole an air of freshness. 

The peasants of the canton of Basil are, like the generality of 
peasants in Switzerland, well clothed and fed, have the liberty, 
which is no small prerogative, of judging in the first instance, 
their own disputes, without the intervention of the bailiff, whose 
treasury is too often swelled by the fines of contention; and 
have also the privilege of bearing arms. 

Their neighbours, the French peasantry, need no longer look 
upon these advantages with the glance of enVy or the sigh of re- 
gret, since, for the French husbandmen, above every other class 
of Frenchmen, the revolution hitherto has been made: while the 
nobility, the clergy, the pensioners of the state, have been ruined; 
while commerce, for awhile annihilated amidst the overwhelming 
shook of political convulsions, is now but slowly awakening once 
more to life; the husbandman, emancipated from every feudal 
claim, exonerated from every species of personal servitude, disbur- 
dened of every tax, and relieved from every oppression, has, above 
all others, had cause to bless the dawn of liberty. Even the horri- 
ble tempest of revolutionary terror, pacsed harmless over his head; 
and while the palace was devastated, and the chateau levelled to the 
ground, his cottage stood erect; amidst the violation of all other 
possessions, his property, with the exception of a few revolu- 
tionary requisitions, was respected; and amidst hosts of execution- 
ers, his person was safe. During the long course and vast depre- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 325 

ciations of paper money, the farmer paid with the labour of a 
week the rents of the year; and was enabled, not only to augment 
his stock, but often became himself the purchaser of land. Suffi- 
ciently an egotist to take every possible advantage of circum- 
stances, at the same time that he disbursed his rent in paper, he 
sold his corn only for money; while the starving proprietor of 
land was compelled, like Belvidera, 4, to part with the ancient 
ornament of massy plate," to buy the wheat which grew on his 
own ground, for the support of himself and family. With the 
return of money, the landlord, indeed, has been secured from 
poverty, by receiving his revenue in solid coin; which the farm- 
ers, immensely enriched by the reign of paper, are well enabled 
to pay. They at present form a bold, independent class of yeo- 
manry, a class till now unknown in this country; and their once 
bare-legged wives and daughters, proudly display their white 
stockings, rich-laced caps, shining pendants, and golden crosses, 
which, in the country, still continue to be worn as a badge of their 
faith, as well as a decoration of their persons. 

What is remarkable enough in this celebrated land of freedom, 
where the poet tells us, that 

"Even the peasant boasts his right to scan, 
"And learns to venerate himself as man," 

all the peasantry in the canton of Basil, with only the exception 
of the little toAm Liestal, which enjoys a few municipal privi- 
leges, are literally serfs, and annexed to the soil. In the feudal 
times, these people, who belong to their respective chief, were 
successively sold, with the possession oa which they were found, 
to the city of Basil, then an imperial city. These Gothic prerog- 
atives, however, have long since been prudently thrown into the 
back ground, and are now less likely than ever to be revived, at 
the distance of half a mile from the shouts of equality, fraternity, 
and the rights of man. 

In speaking of Basil, I should have observed the impropriety 
of drawing lots to fill up the vacant seats at the university. Those 
superior endowments of mind, which give the right of presiding 
over the researches of science, are in all ages and nations, dispens- 
ed with parsimony, and at Basil are probably, for the most part, 
dispensed in vain; since no doubt, chance often bids dulness mount 
the throne, while black-balled genius "wastes its talents on the 
desert air." Of this, there is a remarkable instance on the re- 
cords of the university, where those ornaments of their country, 
the illustrious mathematicians, the Bernouillis, who would have 
been the ornaments of any country, after frequent rejections of 
black-balls, obtained at length the chairs of professors of rhetoric 
and botany. 



J2G THE FL0WE11S OF 

It may, indeed, be now alleged, in justification of this practice, 
that there is little to teach since there ore lew to learn: the colleges 
arc without pupils, and the professorships are mere sinecures. 
Yet Basil was once the centre of science, the chosen residence of 
the s;reat Erasmus, and possessed an university, the professors of 
which, were composed of the most enlightened men of the age, 
and on which the Eulers and Boehmens conferred celebrity: and 
we are told by Mr. Coxc, that he found shop-keepers in this city 
reading Virgil, Horace, and Plutarch; from which he was, no 
doubt, well authorized to draw his conclusion, that there is no 
country in the world where the people are so happy. But what- 
ever were the halcyon days of taste and learning at the period of 
Mr. Coxe's visit, it is a melancholy fact, that this literary spirit 
has entirely evaporated since his departure. These lettered tri- 
umphs, the "'tales of other times," are buried in tenfold gloom: 
the Swiss themselves admit, that Basil is the Bceotia of their 
country; and Horace, Virgil, and Plutarch, are now in general 
disrepute, not only among shop-keepers, but even among the 
wholesale dealers of this once classic city. 

Science is in few countries the certain road to wealth, but the 
modern rulers of Basil, seem to have determined, that it shall 
there be the sure path to poverty; since, while those citizens, 
whose knowledge extends only to the rules of arithmetic, who 
read nothing but their legers, and understand nothing but the 
course of exchange, enjoy all the lavished luxuries of affluence, 
the illfated wight, whom the love of learning, or the impulse of 
genius, leads to the professorship of a college, is forced to content 
himself with that narrow stipend, which, instead of keeping pace 
with the increase of wealth, remains, amidst its flowing tide, an 
antique monument of the few and simple wants of early times. 

But to have annexed poverty to letters, appears not to have 
been thought sufficient by that portion of the praise-worthy Hel- 
vetic body, which presides over the destinies of Basil. Thev 
have stamped a mark of disgrace on the brow of science; and 
whilst the tailor, the fisherman, the shoe-maker, the boatmen; all 
men but the men of letters, can assert their claims, as burghers, 
to the public honours and dignities of the state — 

"And saving 1 ignorance enthrones by law;'' 

the professors of the university are excluded. Genius is treated 
like other strangers in the city of Basil, and refused all participa- 
tion in the rights and immunities of its privileged burghers. 

Even here, however, we find a chosen few who have not bowed 
the knee to Baal, and who cultivate letters with the ardor of ele- 
gant minds; but their number is not sufficient to save their city 
from reproach; and those accomplished exceptions only serve to 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS'. 327 

establish the general rule, as a solitary flower on a desert heath 
reminds the traveller of surrounding barrenness. 

Miss Williams, 



SECTION CXVI. 

Mtorf— William Tell—Ascent to St. Got hard. 

NOTWITHSTANDING our impatience to climb St. Gothanl, 
it would have been unpardonable not to have passed a few hours 
in contemplating the most remarkable objects at Altorf, the capital 
of Uri, and the laurelled cradle of the Helvetic confederation. 

Two hundred years since, the tree yet stood erect in the market 
place, to which the son of William Tell was bound. On this sacred 
spot, is built a kind of painted tower; and at some little distance, 
where it is said the father stood, when he shot, the apple from his 
son's head, a public fountain is erected, called Tell's fountain; on 
which is placed the frowning statue of this generous deliverer of 
his country. There must surely be some defect in the heart which 
feels no enthusiastic glow, while we tread over the spots where 
those heroes have trod,, who have struggled for the liberties of 
mankind, or bled for their rights. Yet one of that everlasting race 
of doubters, who wage an eternal war with all those sublime tradi- 
tions, those heroic sacrifices, and those deeds of greatness, which it is 
delightful to believe, has destroyed, with a touch of his sterile pen, 
all the bright images with which imagination peoples this scene of 
marvels, by asserting, in a treatise published thirty years ago at 
Berne, that all the romantic feats of William Tell were, in far re- 
moter times, performed by Toko, a Dane, against Harold, a king 
of Denmark, in the tenth century. This cold enquirer was proba- 
bly not aware of all the disagreeable sensations which would be felt 
by enthusiastic travellers, who had been worshipping the statue of 
Tell, when they were informed that their homage should be ad- v 
dressed to Toko. It is indeed, pretended that there is an unfortu- 
nate co-incidence of circumstances in the narration of the Danish 
historians, with respect to the shooting of the apple, and the speech 
made to the tyrant. The sovereign council of Berne, however, 
ordered the book to be burnt; and I feel much inclined to excuse 
this coercive measure of those puissant lords, since I cannot but 
;""« their resentment. Tell, is in England, as in Switzerland, 
the hero 01 u Ul infancy; the marvellous tale of the apple is one of 
our earliest lessons; and who can endure to give to Toko, those 
trophies, which h fc has been taught from childhood, were the rights 
of Tell ? The only circumstance in the Savon's favour, or rather 
that of the author who cites him, is the modesty with which he 
delivers his doubts: had he lived in our days, he would, perhaps, 
have allegorised William Tell and Toko himself, with as little ce- 



328 THE FLOWERS OP 

rcmony as M. Dupuis, and his less learned pupils in infidelity, have 
allegorised the most sacred characters of antiquity. The fantastic 
speculations of these later Phyrrhonists have indeed been treated 
with more severity than the fable of the historian. The political 
infallibility of a sovereign council may perhaps be arraigned, and 
Rosseau suggests "that burning is not answering;" but who shall 
raise up the whimsical tribe of allegorists, crushed beneath the lo- 
gical wit of the philosophical believer. 

After leaving Altorf, we journeyed along a valley extending three 
leagues, through which the Reuss flows with the ordinary rapidity 
Of a Swiss river. 

About six miles from Altorf, we passed by a chapel in a meadow; 
the facade of which was decorated with a highly coloured painting, 
representing a stag-hunt, which appeared to be a singular ornament 
for a place of religious worship. We found upon enquiry, that 
this meadow was one of the places of general assembly, that it was 
called the Jag-mat, or hunting meadow; and that, on the day of 
St. Mark, the whole country march to this chapel in procession. 

The rocks, clothed at intervals with trees of various sorts, rose 
high and steep on each side of the valley, which wore a fertile and 
smiling appearance till we came to the village of Stag; above which 
the Alps first lift their majestic heads. Here we began to ascend 
that mass of mountains, which is rather the base than the mountain 
itself of St. Gothard. The road suddenly becomes so steep, that 
it required at first, some address, to keep a seat on horseback. — 
The river, which glided gently through the valley on its expanded 
bed, being now hemmed in by rocks, begins to struggle for its 
passage at a profound depth. The pine-clad hills rose on each side 
to our farthest ken, down which torrent streams were rushing, and 
crossed our way to mingle themselves with the Reuss, which con- 
tinually presented new scenes of wonder. The mountains seemed 
to close upon us as we advanced: sometimes but just space enough 
was left to admit the passage of the river foaming through the rocks, 
which seem obstinately to oppose its passage. The road lay for a 
considerable length on the left side of the precipices, from which 
we beheld the struggles of the waters, and the tremendous succes- 
sion of cascades which they formed. An abrupt precipice for- 
bidding the continuance of the road on this side, a bridge of hardy 
construction led to the opposite mountain, which we ascended, till 
meeting with a similar obstruction, we crossed the stream a°-ain to 
the left. 

On one of these bridges, we halted to gaze ou me scene around 
us, and the yawning gulf below. The depth is »<> tremendous, 
that the first emotion in looking over the bn d » e > ' s th at °* terror, 
lest the side should fall away and plunge you into the dark abyss; 
and it requires some reflection to calm the painful turbulence of sur- 
prise; and leave to the mind the full indulgence of the sensations of 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS- 329 

solemn enthusiastic delight, which swell the heart, while we con- 
template such stupendous objects. 

The name of this bridge, in the language of the country, is the 
Priest's Leap; whether the holy man leaped over the gulf, or into 
it, is not remembered; but it is difficult to hear the story on the 
spot, without an involuntary shudder, or fancy yourself in perfect 
security. 

rt The very place puts toys of desperation} * 
"Without more motive, into every brain 
"That looks so many fathoms to the gulf, 
"And hears it roar beneath." — Suakspeaee, 

> The road up to the village of Wassen, is highly romantie, and 
the views around are astonishing for their variety as well as 
beauty. You perceive however, after passing the village, that you 
are advanced into a country, where man is obliged to be continu- 
ally at war with nature. On one side, the mountain was stripped 
of its piny clothing to some extent, discovering, instead of a dark 
green foliage, a bare rock and gravelly waste, interspersed with 
wrecks of trees. This, we were told, was the ravage of an aval- 
anche. When whole forests of majestic height are swept away 
with irresistible fury, what means of defence can human force 
oppose to such mighty destruction? Men, however, live tran- 
quilly amidst the danger, and build their houses in such positions^ 
and after such a construction, that the enemy, even if he chances 
to take the direction of their habitations, may pass over them un- 
hurt. Rocks, for the most part, are made their allies against these 
invasions from the snowy mountains; but even rocks, coeval with 
time, often yield to the terrible destruction. 

Miss Williams. 



* SECTION CXVII. 

Travels through England in 1782, in which the mannens 
and customs of the English are described in a letter to a, 
friend, by a literary gentleman of Berlin. 

MEN are formed in England, as well as in other countries, by 
education; but this is very different in different nations. The 
taste of the English in their gardens, and in their mode of educat- 
ing youth, resemble each other. They are fond of nature; they 
seek to assist, but are careful not to thwart or destroy her. This 
is the reason that the English approach the nearest to the title and 
dignity of man. The plan prospered by Montesquieu, formed to 
trammel slaves for tyrants, deserves universal contempt. Is man 
to be shaped by education for particular modes of government, or 
42 



330 THE FLOVVEKS OF 

are governments to be adapted to the nature of man? In England 
the principles of the constitution are, like man, formed for free- 
dom. The young rustic is told that he is free, and he feels it. 
Servile reverence for distinctions and titles, is not so strongly in- 
culcated on children here as in other countries. The poor are 
often heard to say, that "their shilling is worth as much as that 
of the rich." I" have known instances, in some schools, of juries 
being formed of twelve scholars, chosen from the rest, to decide 
whether the accused was guilty or not guilty, of the crime laid to 
his charge. By which they learn at an early period, to value the 
privilege of being judged by their equals. Again, children are 
educated with less severity than in other countries. Many an 
Englishman has passed his childhood and youth without receiving 
a blow. In public schools, however, flogging is not totally laid 
aside,, though it is the universal opinion, that it serves more to 
harden than reform. This lenity may in some cases have perni- 
cious effects, but it is a source of much good. I have frequently 
remarked, that a young Englishman, notwithstanding the rude 
and unpolished manners of his boyish days, behaves, at the age 
Qf twenty-five or twenty-six years, with more courtesy, polite- 
ness, and propriety, than are generally to be found in other lands 
at the same age. They observe a happy medium between the 
affected freedom and insipid politeness of the French, and the 
restrained and embarrassed manners which many Germans, who 
think themselves men of education, betray in company. This 
more relaxed discipline, is doubtless the chief cause of their free 
manner of thinking and acting, and the grand source of the solid 
sense, which is more generally found here than elsewhere. Old 
and young, are much more patient of reasonable opposition; and 
they do not so frequently speak in a decisive tone. The great 
variety of religious and political sentiments, the diversity of sects 
and parties to be met with, prevent childhood from being fettered 
by particular modes of thinking. Again, the education of child- 
ren in different ranks of life is very similar. In public schools, 
the children of the nobility and the commoners are upon a level; 
their food is simple, and in this respect, little difference is to be 
found between the larger and the lesser schools. These particularities 
have a natural tendency to lessen the distinction between those in 
a more elevated and in an inferior station. 

One of the most striking and most universal marks of the na- 
tional character, is the love of their country, or national pride. 
The Jlmor Patriae, is common to all nations; but the English 
possess it in the highest degree, and the Germans perhaps in the 
lowest. I must, however, in justice to the Englishman, remark, 
that he neither sets so high a value on his person, or his authority, 
as upon bis being •'born a Briton." This is directly contrary to 
the disposition of other people, and particularly of my own coun- 
trymen, (the Germans,) who value themselves alone, and are only 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 3^1 

proud of mighty /, and seldom trouble their heads about the good 
opinion of their country. A true Englishman speaks of himself, 
his honours, and rank, with modest reserve; but of his country 
with enthusiasm; whereas a German is chiefly enamoured of his 
own merits and titles. 

There are numberless instances of liberality, which, for the 
magnitude of the donations, and the manner of giving, excite 
astonishment. Subscriptions for the support of the distressed, 
are no where so general and so ample. But these charitable deeds 
do not always proceed from the purest motives. Sometimes os- 
tentation has a large share; sometimes national pride, which builds 
palaces for beggars, and wastes, in surperfluous ornaments, sums 
that might have been better applied to extend the benefits of the 
institution; and sometimes private interest prompts individuals to 
propose new plans to the public. However, in every case where 
the public in general are convinced that the scheme promises 
utility, their suspicion of the motives does not prevent their giv- 
ing it proper encouragement. 

The English are renowned for equity and sincerity; and my 
own experience witnesses in their favour. Villains and impostors 
may be found here in great abundance, as well as in other coun- 
tries; but the nation, in general, deserves, in a distinguished man- 
ner, the praises due to integrity. Not only the spirit of the 
English laws breathes equity, but the manner in which the laws 
are administered, indicates that neither opulence nor elevated 
rank, can protect the great against the complaints of the poor and 
oppressed; while, on the other hand, the private character of the 
lowest person accused, is of the utmost advantage to him in 
every doubtful case. Sincerity marks their mutual intercourse. 
To strangers they are neither so loquacious, nor profuse of courtly 
promises, as many others; but they are not such unpolished 
clowns as the French often represent them on the public stage, 
under the title of John Bull. Their caution may be considered 
as a pledge to such as shall, after a more intimate acquaintance, 
obtain their confidence, and their subsequent Unreserved and 
friendly behaviour proceeds from the heart. Indeed an English- 
man has no motive to be a hypocrite. He may always think and 
speak according to his ideas of truth. In many parts of the world, 
thought is not perfectly free, and a man suspected of heresy in 
affairs of church or state, is not always secure from the conse- 
quences. But here, thank God, not only the thoughts, but the 
tongue, the pen, and the press are free. 

I acknowledge that abuses are sometimes committed in conse- 
quence of the unrestrained freedom of the press; but after the 
observation of many years, I am confident that the advantages 
infinitely preponderate. The public is the dread tribunal before 
which every cause is judged. Every man is heard, and is free to 
vindicate his conduct Had all lands such heralds, whose loud 



333 THE FLOWERS OF 

voice might awaken shame and fear; were the common people of 
every country, equally eager to read the public papers; then would 
discord, oppression, bigotry, soon be banished from their borders, 
by a great majority of votes; and men who can read, and dare to 
write, would soon cease to be slaves. 

The English have an undoubted claim to the character of being 
courageous in common W'ith other nations; however, they have 
certainly this advantage in their general character they are the 
least fearful of death. Battles by sea and land evince this. Per- 
haps their land forces would distinguish themselves yet more, if 
promotions in the army were not to be purchased, but given as 
rewards to merit. Many examples of the contempt of deaih are 
to be found among those who are capitally convicted. The aged 
and infirm also, when they see dissolution before iheir eyes, speak 
of it with the utmost composure; and in the spirit of Juvenal, so 
far from fearing the day of their death, they reckon it among the 
gjifts of heaven: 

"Animum mortis terrore carentem 
"Qui spatium vitx extremuia inter munera ponat 
"Naturae." 

From their predilection for tragedy, and the preference which 
they give to the softer feelings of humanity and the tear of com- 
passion, to the loud laugh excited by the comic muse in her display 
of the follies of life, we are not to infer that the English are ene- 
mies to mirth. The mob in the upper gallaries, laugh as loud at 
the low tricks of Harlequin, who is not as yet banished from their 
stage, as the Germans can at similar absurdities; and the intelligent 
spectator yawns as little over the lively representations which the 
comic muse, in company with satire, gives of the ridiculous follies 
which the great or the small, clergy or laity, betray. In the house 
of commons itself, the walls often shake with peals of laughter; 
nor are there wanting multitudes who can amuse themselves with 
the most arrant trifles. Whoever would see the opinion of the 
French confuted, that the English have pen de gout pour la 
bagatelle, has only to cast his eyes upon the thousands of maca- 
ronies of every class, and the perpetual changes of fashion, par- 
ticularly among the female sex; and he will be convinced that 
these sober Britons, so much celebrated for their seriousness and 
gravity, do not yield to any of their neighbours in their taste for 
levities and trifles. Cheerfulness and freedom are to be found in 
English companies, as well as among oilier people; but, to my 
satisfaction, I find them exempt from that formality, frivolous- 
ness, selfconceit, and love of wrangling, which too much charac- 
terise others. In societies of the lower class, men converse w ith 
more good sense and moderation than are generally to be met w ith 
in other countries, among those who think themselves of no 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 33S 

small consequence. It often happens in large companies, after 
much conversation and pleasantry, that a sudden pause is made, 
and they look at one another with attention. They know that this 
is peculiar to them, and they term it an English conversation. 
While they wonder at the formality which distinguishes strangers 
thnt come from the more northern parts, they are no less aston- 
ished at the loud and frivolous chat of the French. Grotius, 
though a Dutchman, whose reputation was very high in England 
before his visit in the year 1613, lost much of it by talking more 
than the English thought convenient. Abbot, archbishop of Can* 
terbury, called him a chatterer, and agreed in opinion with his 
king, who had little right to ridicule another for pedantry, ''that 
Grotius was a man of many words, and little judgment." Such 
is the opinion the English entertain of most Frenchmen; and if we 
may extend pedantry to manners and fashions, it is not ground- 
less. The behaviour of an Englishman is far from being so lively, 
noisy, and insinuating as that of some others, yet it pleases me the 
most. If he speaks but little, he will often say more to the purpose in 
ten words, than others in a hundred. If he assures me with a 
single word and a squeeze by the hand, that he is my friend, I be- 
lieve this simple assurance more than I would a hundred unmean- 
ing compliments. It is not surprising that men who have thought 
but little, and take much upon trust, who speak more from mere 
opinion than from cool and deliberate enquiry, should find the 
English reserved, gloomy* calm in friendship, and silent in com- 
pany. To true friends they are open-hearted, animated, upright, 
ready to assist; and, as soon as they find it requisite, will tell them 
their sentiments with the utmost freedom. 

Whether industry can be deemed a distinguished feature in the 
English character, admits of a doubt. In Holland they appear 
more industrious. They who must work, do it with spirit; but 
the majority prefer living in ease and indolence. No people are 
so fond of holidays, as their workmen and schoolboys. I believe 
they would sooner admit of despotic laws than be deprived of 
their stated seasons for drunkenness and dissipation. When a 
stranger sees the streets of London daily crowded with people, 
pushing forward with so much eagerness, he is ready to conclude 
that no nation in the world can equal them in activity and dili- 
gence. But he must not think they are engaged in profitable 
business. I believe it is impossible for them to sit still. The 
public roads are thronged with horsemen, of whom six out of ten 
are idlers, who ride merely for amusement, and, without the 
shadow of necessity, drive on as if they were hurrying to See a 
friend who is at his last gasp, and that they feared he would expire 
before their arrival The coaches are mostly filled with loungers 
of each sex, who, merely to get rid of themselves, and enjoy a 
mouthful of fresh air, ride backwards and forwards without speak- 
ing a word to each other, with the glasses drawn up to protect 



334 TUE FLOWERS OF 

them, in the summer, from the dust; and in the winter, from the 
cold. In short, all that can, shun labour; and those who must 
work, do it in hopes of living sometime or other in indolence. 

That the English arc charged with paying very little attention 
to religion, I am not ignorant: hut from the knowledge I have ob- 
tained of their religious character, hy a long residence among 
them, I must declare that this is an error. If the essence of relig- 
ion consists in fearing God, acknowledging the obligations of 
virtue, and in doing justice, I am persuaded that religion is more 
respected in England than among other people, who, though they 
readily yield to the English, and even envy them, many other 
advantages, yet, respecting their conduct towards heaven, cry out 
with much self-complacency, "I thank thee, God, that I am not 
as these." I will not pretend to exculpate the English before the 
tribunal of orthodoxy; but justice obliges me to acknowledge, 
that those who profess to reduce the doctrines of Christianity to 
practice, perform the duties of social life as punctually, and per- 
haps with more conscientiousness, than in other countries, where 
professors of religion value themselves more upon the strictness 
of their faith, than upon virtuous conduct, that arises from the 
purest sources, and proceeds from the most rational and revered 
principles of humanity. 

I had almost forgotten to tell you, that I have already been to 
the parliament house; and yet this is of most importance: for had 
I seen nothing else in England but this, I should have thought my 
journey thither amply rewarded. 

As little as I have hitherto troubled myself with politics, be- 
cause, indeed, with us, it is little worth our while, I was, how- 
ever, desirous to be present at a meeting of parliament, a wish 
that was soon amply gratified. 

One afternoon, about three o'clock, at which hour, or there- 
abouts, the house most commonly meets, I enquired for West- 
minster-Hall, and was very politely directed by an Englishman. 
These directions are always given, with the utmost kindness. You 
may ask who you please, if you can only make yourself tolerably 
well understood; and by thus asking every now and then, you may, 
with the greatest ease, find your Way throughout ail London. 

Westminster-Hall, is an enormous Gothic building, whose vault- 
ed roof is supported, not by pillars, but instead of these there 
are on each side, large unnatural heads of angels, carved in wood, 
which seem to support the roof. 

When you have passed through this long hall, you ascend a 
few steps at the end, and are led through a dark passage into the 
house of commons, which below has a large double door, and 
above there is a stair-case, by which you go to the gallary, the 
place allotted for strangers. 

The first time I went up this small stair-case, and had reached 
the rails, I saw a very genteel man in black, standing there. I 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 335 

accosted him, without any introduction, and I asked him whether 
I might be allowed to go into the gallery. He told me that I 
must be introduced by a member, or else I could not get admission 
there. Now as I had not the honour to be acquainted with a 
member, I was under the mortifying necessity of retreating, and 
again going down stairs; as I did, much chagrined. And now, 
as I was sullenly marching back, I heard something said about a 
bottle of wine, which seemed to b'e addressed to me. I could not 
conceive what it could mean, till I got home, when my obliging- 
landlady told me that I should have given the well-dressed man 
half a crown, or a couple of shillings for a bottle of wine. Happy 
in this information, I went again the next day, when the same man 
who before had sent me away, after I had given him only two 
shillings, very politely opened the door for me, and himself re- 
commended me to a good seat in the gallery. 

And thus, I now, for the first time, saw the whole of the Brit- 
ish nation assembled in its representatives, in rather a mean look- 
ing building, that not a little resembles a chapel. The speaker, 
an elderly man, with an enormous wig, with two knotted kinds of 1 
tresses or curls behind, in a black cloak, his hat on his head, sat 
opposite to me on a lofty chair, which was not unlike a small pul- 
pit, save only that in the front of this there was no reading 
desk. Before the speaker's chair, stands a table which looks like 
an altar; and at this there sit two men called clerks, dressed in 
black, with black cloaks. On the table, by the side of the great 
parchment acts, lies a huge gilt sceptre, which is always taken 
away and placed in a conservatory under the table as soon as ever 
the speaker quits the chair; which he does as often as the house 
resolves itself into a committee. A committee means nothing 
more than that the house puts itself into a situation freely to dis- 
cuss and debate any point of difficulty and moment, and while it 
lasts, the speaker partly lays aside his power as a legislator. As 
soon as this is over, some one tells the speaker that he may now 
again be seated; and immediately on the speaker's being again in 
the chair, the sceptre is also replaced on the table before him. 

All round on the sides of the house, under the gallery, are 
benches for the members, covered with green cloth, always one 
above the other, like our choirs in churches, in order that he who 
is speaking may see over those who sit before him. The seats in 
the gallery are on the same plan. The members of parliament 
keep their hats on, but the spectators in the gallery are uncovered. 

The members of the house of commons, have nothing particu- 
lar in their dress; they even come into the house in their great 
coats, and boots and spurs. It is not at all uncommon to see a 
member lying stretched out on one of the benches while others 
are debating. Some crack nuts, others eat oranges, or whatever 
else is in season. 



.JJO THE FLOWERS OF 

There is no end to their going in and. out; and as often as any 
one wishes to go out, he places himself before the speaker, and 
makes him his bow; as if, like a school-boy, he asked his tutor's 
permission. 

Those who speak seem to deliver themselves with but little, per- 
haps not always with even a decorous gravity. All that is neces- 
sary is to stand up in your place, take off your bat, turn to the 
speaker, (to whom all the speeches are addressed,) to hold your 
hat and stick in one hand, and with the other hand to make any 
such motions as you fancy necessary to accompany 3 our speech. 

If it happens that a member rises who is but a bad speaker, or 
if what he says is generally deemed not sufficiently interesting, so 
much noise is made, and such bursts of laughter are raised, that 
the member who is speaking can scarcely distinguish his own words. 
This must needs be a distressing situation; and it seems then to be 
particularly laughable, when the speaker in his chair, like a tutor 
in a school, again and again endeavours to restore order, which he 
does by calling out, "to order, to order!" apparently often without 
much attention being paid to it. 

On the contrary, when a favourite member, and one who speaks 
well and to the purpose, rises, the most perfect silence reigns; and 
his friends and admirers, one after another, make their approba- 
tion known by calling out "hear him!" which is often repeated 
by the whole house at once; and in this way so much noise is often 
made, that the speaker is frequently interrupted by this same em- 
phatic hear him! Notwithstanding which this calling out is regard- 
ed as a great encouragement; and I have often observed, that one 
who began with some diffidence, and even somewhat inauspi- 
ciously, has in the end been so animtUed, that he has spoken with 
a torrent of eloquence. 

As all speeches are directed to the speaker, all the members 
always preface their speeches with Sir; and he, on being thus ad- 
dressed, generally moves his hat a little, but immediately puts it 
on again. This Sir is often introduced in the course of their 
speeches, and serves to connect what is said; it seems also to stand 
the speaker in some stead, when any one's memory fails him, or 
he is otherwise at a loss for matter. For while he is saying Sir, 
and has thus obtained a little pause, he recollects what is to follow. 
Yet I have sometimes seen some members draw a kind of memo- 
randum out of their pockets, like a candidate who is at a loss in 
his sermon: this is the only instance in which a member of the 
British Parliament seems to read his speeches. 

The first day that I was at the house of commons, an English 
gentleman who sat next to me in the gallary, very obligingly 
pointed out to me the principal members; such as Fox, Burke, 
Kigby, &c. all of whom I heard speak. The debate happened to 
be, whether besides being made a peer, any other specific reward 
should be bestowed by the nation on their gallant admiral Rodney? 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 331 

•in the course of the debate, I remember, Mr. Fox was very 
sharply reprimanded by young Lord Fielding, for having, when 
minister, opposed the election of admiral Hood as a member for 
Westminster. 

Fox was sitting to the right of the speaker, not far from the 
table on which the gilt sceptre lay. He now took his place so 
near it that he could reach it with his hand; and, thus placed, he 
gave it many a violent and hearty thump, either to aid or to shew 
tiie energy with which he spoke. If the charge was vehement, 
his defence was no less so. He justified himself against Lord 
Fielding, by maintaining that he had not opposed this election in 
the character of a minister, but as an individual or private person; 
and that as such, he had freely and honestly, given his- vote for 
another, namely, sir Cecil Wray; adding, that the king, when he 
appointed him secretary of state, had entered into no agreement 
with him, by which he 'lost his -vote as an individual-; to such a 
requisition he never would have submitted. It is impossible for 
me to describe with what fire and persuasive eloquence he spoke, 
and how the speaker in the chair incessantly nodded approbation, 
from beneath his solemn wig; and innumerable voices incessantly 
calling out "hear him! hear him!" and when there was the least 
sign that he intended to leave off speaking, they no less vocifer- 
ously exclaimed "go on!" and so he continued to speak in this 
manner for nearly two hours. 

Mr. Rigby in reply, made a short but humourous speech, in 
which he mentioned of how little consequence the title of lord and 
lady was, without money to support it, and finished with the latin 
proverb, "infelixpaupertas — quod ridiculos homines facit" — ' 
after having first very judiciously observed that, previous enquiry 
should be made, whether admiral Rodney had made any rich, 
prizes or captures; because, if that should be the ease, he would 
not stand in need of further reward in money. I have since been 
almost every day at the parliament house, and prefer the enter- 
tainment I there met with to most other amusements. 

Fox is still much beloved by the people, notwithstanding that- 
they are (and certainly with good reason,) displeased at his being 
the cause of admiral Rodney's recall; though even I have heard him 
again and again, almost extravagant in his encomiums on this noble 
admiral. This same celebrated Charles Fox, is a short, fat, and gross 
man, with a swarthy complexion, and dark; and in general, badly 
dressed. There certainly is something Jewish in his looks; but 
upon the whole, he is not an ill-made or an ill-looking man; and 
there are many strong marks of sagacity and fire in his eyes. I 
have frequently heard the people here say, that this same Mr. Fox, 
is as cunning as a fox. Burke is a well made, tall, upright man, but 
looks elderly and broken. Rigby .is excessively corpulent, and 
has a jolly rubicund face. 
f3 



33S THE FLOWERS OF 

The little less than downright open abuse, and the many really 
rude things which the members said to each other, struck me 
much. For example; when one has finished, another rises, and 
immediately taxes with absurdity all that "the right honorable 
gentleman," (for with this title, the members of the house of 
commons, always honour each other,) had just advanced. It 
would, indeed, be contrary to the rules of the house, flatly to tell 
eaoh other, that what they have spoken is false or even foolhli: 
instead of this, they turn themselves as usual to the speaker, 
and so, while their address is directed to him, they fancy they 
violate neither the rules of parliament, nor those of good breed- 
ing and decorum, whilst they utter the most cutting personal sar- 
casms against the member they oppose. 

It is quite laughable to see, as one sometimes does, one member 
speaking, and another accompanying the speech with his action. 
This I remarked more than once in a worthy, old citizen, who 
was fearful of speaking himself; but when his neighbour spoke, 
he accompanied every energetic sentence with -a suitable gesticula- 
tion, by which means his whole body was sometimes in notion. 

It often happens, that the jett or principal point in the debate, 
is lost in these personal contests and bickerings between each other. 
When they last so long as to become quite tedious and tiresome, 
and likely to do harm rather than good, the house takes upon 
itself to express its disapprobation; and then there arises a general 
cry of, "the question! the question!" This must sometimes be 
frequently repeated, as the contending members are both anxious 
to have the last word. At length, however, the question is put 
and the votes taken: when the speaker says, "those who are for 
the question are to say Aye, and those who are against it No. ?,% 
You then hear a confused cry of aye and no: but at length the 
speaker says, "I think there are more ayes than noes; or more 
noes than ayes. The ayes have it; or the noes have it;" as the 
case may be. But all the spectators must then retire from the 
gallery; for then, and not till then, the voting really commences. 
And now the members call aloud to the gallery, "withdraw! with- 
draw!" On this the strangers withdraw, and are shut up in a 
small room, at the foot of the stairs, till the voting is over, when 
they are again permitted to take their places in the gallery. Here 
I could not help wondering at the impatience even of polished 
Englishmen: it is astonishing with what violence, and even rude- 
ness, they push and jostle one another as soon as the room door 
is again opened; eager to gain the first and best seats in the gallery. 
In this manner we, the strangers, have sometimes been sent away 
two or three times in the course of one day, or rather evening; and 
afterwards permitted to return. Among these spectators are peo- 
ple of all ranks, and even not unfrequently ladies. Two short- 
hand writers have sat sometimes not far distant from me, who, 
(though it is rather by stealth,) endeavour to take down the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS.. 339 

words of the speaker; and thus all that is very remarkable in what 
is said in parliament may very generally be read in print the next 
day. The short-hand writers whom I noticed, are supposed to be 
. employed and ^paid by the editors of the different newspapers. 
There are, it seems, some few persons who are constant attendants 
on parliaments, and so they pay the door-keeper before hand a 
guinea for a whole session. I have now and then seen some of the 
members bring their sons, whilst quite little boys, and carry them 
to their seats along with themselves. 

A proposal was once made to erect a gallery in the house of 
peers also, for the accommodation of spectators; but this never 
was carried into effect. There appears to be much more polite- 
ness and more courteous behaviour in the members of the upper 
house. But he who wishes to observe mankind, and to contem- 
plate the leading traits of the different characters most strongly 
marked, will do well to attend frequently the lower, rather than 
the other house. 

Not less simple and amusing is his description of Vawxhall, 
Ranelagh, the theatres, the Westminster election, and various 
other scenes which London presents. One remark will appear 
particularly singular to a native of the metropolis. 

By the side of the Thames were several porters, one of whom 
took my heavy trunk on his shoulders with astonishing ease, and 
carried it till I met a hackney coach. This I hired for two shill- 
ings; immediately put the trunk into it, accompanying it myself, 
without paying any thing extra for my own seat. This is a great 
advantage in the English hackney coaches, that you are allowed 
to take with you whatever you please; for thus you save at least 
one half of what, you must pay to a porter, and, besides, go with 
it yourself; and are better accommodated. 

On our way to Oxford, we went to attend divine service at 
Nettlebed. At length came the parson on horseback. The boys 
pulled off their hats, and all made him very low bows. He ap- 
peared to be rather an elderly man, and wore his own hair round, 
and decently dressed, or rather curling naturally. 

The bell now rung in, and so 1 too, with a sort of secret proud 
sensation, as if I had also been an Englishman, went with my 
prayer-book under my arm, to church, along with the rest of the 
congregation; and when I got into the church, the clerk very 
civilly seated me close to the pulpit. 

Nothing can possibly be more simple, apt, and becoming, than 
the few decorations of this church. 

Directly over the altar, on two tables, in large letters, the ten 
commandments were written. There surely is much wisdom and 
propriety in thus placing full in the view of the people, .the sum 
and substance of all morality. 

Under the pulpit, near the steps that led up to it, was a desk, 
from which the clergyman read the liturgy. The responses were 



JI40 THE FLOWERS OV 

all regularly made by the clerk; the whole congregation joining 
occasionally, though but in alow voice: as foi instance, the min- 
ister said, "Lord have mercy upon us!" the clerk and the congre- 
gation immediately subjoin, "and forgive us all «ur sins." I a 
general, when the clergyman offers tip a prayer, the clerk and the 
whole congregation answer only, "Amen." 

The English service must needs he exceedingly fatiguing to the 
officiating minister, inasmuch as, besides a sermon, the greatest 
part of the liturgy falls to his share to read, besides the psalms 
and two lessons. The joining of the whole congregation in prayer, 
has something exceedingly solemn and affecting in it. Two sol- 
diers, who sat near me in church, and who had probably been in 
London, seemed to wish to pass for philosophers and wits; for they 
did not join in the prayers of the church. 

The service was now pretty well advanced, when I observed 
some little stir in the desk: the clerk was busy, and they seemed 
to be preparing for something new and solemn; and I also per- 
ceived several musical instruments. The clergyman now stopped, 
and the clerk then said, in aloud voice, "Let us sing to the praise 
and glory of God, the forty-seven* h psalm. 

1 cannot well express how affecting and edifying it seemed to 
me, to hear this orderly and decent congregation, in this small 
country church, joining together, with vocal and instrumental 
music, in the praise of their Maker, y It was the more grateful, as 
having been performed, not by mercenary musicians, but by the 
peaceful and pious inhabitants of this sweet village. I can hardly 
figure to myself any offering more likely to be grateful to God. 

The congregation sang and prayed alternately several times; 
and the tunes of the psalms were particularly lively and cheerful, 
though at the same time, sufficiently grave, and uncommonly in- 
teresting. I am a warm admirer of all sacred music; and I cannot 
but add, that that of the church of England, is particularly calcu- 
lated to raise the heart to devotion. 1 own it often affected me 
even to tears. 

The clergyman now stood up, and made a short but very proper 
discourse, upon this text — "Not all they who say, Lord, Lord! 
shall enter the kingdom of heaven." His language was particu- 
larly plain, though forcible; his arguments were no less plain, 
convincing and earnest, but contained nothing that was particu- 
larly striking. I do not think the sermon lasted more than half 
an hour. 

This clergyman had not, perhaps, a very prepossessing appear- 
ance; I thought him also a little distant and reserved; and I did 
not quite like his returning the bows of the farmers with a very 
formal nod. 

I stayed to the service was quite over, and then went out of the 
church with th« congregation, and amused myself with reading 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 341 

the inscriptions on the tomb-stones in the church-yard; which, in 
general, are simpler, more pathetic, and better writtten than 
ours. M. Moritz. 



SECTION CXVIII. 

Of the Houzouanas in Jifrica. 

ON the third day, I at length distinguished the plain and the 
mountains, which had been described to me by the Sandal bearers. 
When I make use of the word plain, the reader must not affix to 
it the strict meaning which it has in the French language. In 
Africa, this name is given to certain spaces which, surrounded by 
high mountains, present only rocks and hills of much less size, 
by which they are intersected. 

We advanced into this pretended plain, having in front the moun- 
tains, said to be the retreat of the Houzouanas They were only 
about five or six leagues distant, and appeared to me to extend 
from south to north farther than the eye could reach: I was un- 
willing, however, to entangle myself amongst them at hazard. 

On the other hand, it was impossible for me to despatch some 
of my Hottentots before, according to my usual eustom, to an- 
nounce my approach, and to prepare the minds of the Houzouanas 
for my arrival. Had I made such a proposal to any of them, 
they would have formally refused me. I was loth even to put the 
attachment of Klaas to so great a trial, whatever readiness he had 
hitherto shewn to obey me. In this embarrassment I could Only 
depend on myself, and wait the circumstances that might arise to 
determine my conduct. 

I halted, therefore, and ordered my encampment to be formed, 
in hopes that I should discover, during the night, the fires lighted 
by the Houzouanas in their mountains. These signals, I con- 
eluded, would point to me the spots which they inhabited, and, 
by directing my route, prevent me from losing my way. It 
was, however, necessary that I should not be discovered by them, 
and, that consequently, no fires should be kindled in my camp. 

But this measure was become impracticable. On my arrival I 
had seen considei'able herds of zebras: I had seen also other herds, 
still more numerous, of the species of gnou, already mentioned; 
and I knew that such a number of wild quadrupeds must necessa 
rily attract beasts of prey. How then could I run the risk of 
passing a night without fires in a strange country, and in all prob= 
ability infested by lions and tigers? 

Abandoning therefore my first design, I began to examine the 
neighbourhood, making some of my people also patrol around, in 
order to be assured that there were no enemies near us. I then, at 
the close of the day? gave orders that several large fires should be 



31£> THE FLOWEKb OF 

kindled, and that they should be multiplied as much as possible, 
disposing Ihem, however, in such a manner that they might enable 
us to distinguish at a distance, if any thing dangerous should 
appear. 

To overawe the Houzouanas, in case any of them should acci- 
dentallv perceive us, I ordered a general discharge of musquetry; 
and I took care from time to time, to fire several shots during the 
night. 

In the course of the night, I observed at a distance towards the 
south, a very large fire, which, by its extent, appeared to be a 
conflagration of dry grass on the sides of the mountains, and much 
nearer before us, to the west, three others which I supposed to be sig- 
nals. The latter seemed to announce that.I was in the neighborhood 
of a horde, either of the Houzouanas or of some other nation; and I 
consequently resolved, as soon a_s day should appear, to advance to- 
wards the mountains. 

When about to depart, I found myself once more retarded by 
the timidity of my people, who, being again seized with their 
former terror, were afraid to penetrate farther. When we quitted 
the horde of the Sandal-bearers, the danger had appeared only at 
a distance, in perspective, and they had braved it; but now, when 
they beheld it near and magnified by imagination; it entirely 
damped their courage. 

My patrol, my fires, and those precautions for our safety, which 
I had thought proper to employ during the night, had served only 
to augment their terror. They began to apprehend, that I wished 
to advance even beyond the country of the Houzouanas. They 
accused Klaas of having deceived the whole company, by making 
them believe that my intention was to return to my camp at Or- 
ange river, after I had visited that nation, while all my prepara- 
tions seemed to announce plans perfectly the reverse; and this 
reasoning was not destitute of probability, as I had hitherto said 
nothing respecting the proximity of my return. 

After marching some time, we arrived at a rivulet which issued 
from the entrance of a narrow defile. On its banks, some cows 
were feeding ; and at the distance of four hundred paces farther 
towards the defile, stood a certain number of huts, the habitations 
of the Houzouanas. At the moment of our arrival, none of them 
were abroad but the women, who on perceiving us, sent forth a 
cry of alarm. Upon this signal, the men came out of their huts, 
armed with bows and arrows ; and the whole troop entering the 
defile, posted themselves on a small eminence, from which they 
Watched our conduct with steadiness and assurance, in order to de- 
termine thereby what conduct they should pursue. 

At the distance at which I stood, I had no hopes of making them 
hear me : and, besides, what could I say to people with whose lan- 
guage I was totally unacquainted? I resolved, therefore, to employ 
one which I supposed they might comprehend; and I made as did also 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 34$ 

my companions, every sign of friendship that the circumstances 
of the moment suggested. This language however, was new to 
them ; they seemed not to understand it ; and I found myself re- 
duced to the necessity of trying the only one likely to be intelli- 
gible, I mean that of presents. 

I advanced then towards their huts ; but I found them all empty, 
except one, in which there was a little dog. At the entrance of 
another, lay a heap of reeds, and a few sharpened bones, destined, 
no doubt, for making arrows. Imitating the manner of those who 
attract domestic animals, by placing before them some dainty, I 
deposited, near the reeds, a small quantity of tobacco and some 
glass beads, and then returned to my former station. 

While I was thus employed, they had removed to a greater dis- 
tance; but, when I retired, they again drew near, and at length 
came to their huts, and took up the present I had left there. 

The attention with which they examined it, and the pleasure it 
seemed to afford them, led me to believe that, after these prelimi- 
naries of friendship, I might venture to accost them. I advanced 
therefore, once more, followed by my company; but they retired in 
the same manner as before. 

They removed, indeed, to a greater distance than at first; but I 
remarked that they seemed to be deliberating together, and I flat- 
tered myself that they would not delay to enter into a conference 
with me. I thought proper, therefore, to make Another attempt; 
and taking a new present of tobacco and beads, I held it up to 
them, that they might see it, and advanced towards them alone. 

This mode of negociation succeeded. One of the men left his 
companions, and, approaching me, stopped at the distance of a 
hundred paces to ask who I was, and what I wanted. I remarked 
with surprise, that this man was black, whilst the rest of the horde, 
both men and women, were much less so than even the Hotten- 
tots. But what astonished me still more, was to hear him address 
me in the Hottentot language. I replied in the same language,, 
that I was a traveller who wished to be acquainted with the 
country he inhabited, and was desirous, if possible, to find friends 
in it. 

He then came up to me; and my four attendants, having ad- 
vanced also, were as much astonished as I was to see a person of 
their own nation. They entered into conversation with hiirij. 
assured him of the truth of what I had said, and gained so entirely 
his confidence, that he immediately made a sign to his compan- 
ions to join him. 

The women, more mistrustful and circumspect, remained in 
groups near the huts, waiting for the result of the conference, and 
watching us with an eye of curiosity. The men all flocked round- 
us. I distributed among them the tobacco and beads which I had 
shewn them; and these wolves, who had been,- painted to me as so 
ferOc-ion-s. seemed to be a^> harmless as lambs. 



344 THE' KLOWEttS ov 

I had, however, no sooner rendered them tractable, than I was 
obliged to leave them. My march had taken up a great deal of 
my time the day was far advanced, and I was apprehensive that, 
if I remained any longer, my absence might alarm my people; or 
that I should expose myself to the hazard of losing my way dur- 
ing the night, in a country with which I was totally unacquainted. 
I told the Houzouanas, therefore, that I would return next morn- 
ing, and encamp on the banks of their rivulet. I again assured 
them, that they would find in me a friend always ready to oblige 
and defend them. I engaged that, they should experience from my 
people neither insult nor injury; but I declared, at the same time, 
that if they gave me the least cause of complaint, I would employ 
against them all my resources, and in that case they would find my 
strength far superior to theirs. 

I employed the Hottentot as an interpreter to communicate to 
ihem these sentiments; and through the same medium I received a 
very satisfactory answer. I observed that this man, besides the 
Hottentot language, spoke also pretty good Dutch. He offered 
very readily to serve me as a guide to my camp, to pass the night 
there, and to return with me the next morning to the horde. He 
was overjoyed to find countrymen with whom he could converse 
in his maternal tongue; and I was equally glad to find in him a 
confidence which contributed to strengthen mine. I accepted his 
offer, therefore, with gratitude, and we immediately set out* 

My readers will not doubt, that my first care on the road was to 
ask him, bj^ what adventure he had been transplanted amongst the 
Houzouanas. He informed me, that he was born in the neighbour- 
hood of the Camis, and had lived several years subject to tbe com- 
pany; but that, having been treated in various instances with in- 
justice, he had deserted with a negro slave belonging to the same 
master, and, after wandering about for a long time, had at last 
sought an asylum and protection among the Houzouanas. The 
negro man died from the effect of a poisoned arrow, by which he 
was wounded in a skirmish the horde had been engaged in with a 
strange tribe. Being thus deprived of his companion, he continu- 
ed to live with his protecters, and by his courage he was become 
in a manner their chief. 

I excused his desertion; it appeared to me lawful and right; but 
I could not comprehend why he had prefeied a residence among 
banditti, whose profession was robbery and murder. Having some- 
what mildly reproached him on this account, he addressed me as 
follows: — 

"The Houzouanas are by no means, what you suppose them to 
be, murderers by profession. If they sometimes shed blood, it is 
not from a thirst of carnage, but to make just reprisals, that they 
take up arms. Attacked and persecuted by surrounding nations, 
they have found themselves reduced to the necessity of flying to 
inaccessible places among- the barren mountains, where no other 
people could exist. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS/ 345 

"If they find antelopes and damans to kill; if the nymphs of 
ants are abundant; or if their good fortune brings them plenty of 
locusts, they remain within the precincts of their rocks; but if the 
provisions necessary to subsistence fail, the nations in their neigh- 
bourhood must suffer. From the summits of the mountains, they 
survey at a distance the countries around; and if they observe 
caf tie, they make an incursion to carry them off, or slaughter them 
upon the spot, according to circumstances; but they never kill, ex- 
cept to defend their lives, or bj^ way of retaliation to revenge an 
ancient injury 

"It happens sometimes, however, that, after very fatiguing ex- 
peditions, they return without booty, either because the objects of 
their attack have disappeared, or because they have been repulsed 
and beaten. In such cases, the women, exasperated by hunger, 
and the lamentation of their children crying for food, become 
almost furious with passion. Reproaches; insult, and threats, are 
employed; they wish to separate from such dastardly men, to quit 
husbands destitute of courage, and to seek others who will be more 
anxious to procure provisions for them and their children. In 
short, having exhausted whatever rage or despair can suggest, 
they will pull off their small apron of modesty, and beat their 
husbands about the head with it till their arms are weary of the 
exercise. 

"Of all the affronts which they can offer, this is the most insult- 
ing. Unable to withstand it, the men in their turn become furious. 
They put on their war-cap, a sort of helmet, made with the skin 
that covers the neck of the hyaena, the long hair of which forms a 
crest that floats over the head, and setting out like madmen, never 
return till they have succeeded in carrying off some cattle. 

"When they come back, their wives go to meet them, and ex- 
tol their courage amidst the fondest caresses. In a word, nothing 
is then thought of but mirth and jollity; and, till similar scenes 
are recalled by similar wants, past evils are forgotten." 

Such was the substance of the details by which my guide en- 
deavoured to justify the conduct of the Houzouanas — a conduct 
rendered necessary by want, and sufficiently authorised by their 
quality of savages. With our laws, civilization, manners, and 
the prejudices we thence imbibe, we consider it as something mon- 
strous to find, in the savage state, hordes of free-booters, who give 
themselves up to continual rapine, to war, and its concomitant 
dangers, in order to avoid hunger, and find the means of appeas- 
ing it. But which is; in reality, the greatest savage — he who has 
lands and flocks, who fixes himself to one spot, who is acquainted 
with barter, and subsists by the practice of commerce; or he who 
trusts merely to his strength, and waits for the moment of need, 
before he thinks of procuring what he may have occasion for? 
Laws, civilization, and morals, must undoubtedly have the prefer- 
ence; but the evils which they often bring in their train, infinitely 
44 



346 THE FLOWERS OF 

diminished, in my eyes, the misfortunce of inhabiting a desert, 
and of being thereby ignorant of them. 

When my Hottentot arrived at the camp, his presence occa- 
sioned a sort of stupor. Had he'fallen from the clouds, he could 
not, in my opinion, have produced more astonishment. He was 
soon surrounded by my people, each wishing to know by what 
singular adventures he had got to such a distance from his native 
country. So highly was their curiosity excited, that they never 
quitted him; and, after they had given him some refreshment, 
they employed the remainder of the time till the moment of our 
departure, without suffering him to rest during the night, even in 
putting questions to him and hearing his replies. 

Next morning I proceeded, as I had announced, to pitch ray 
tent on the banks of the rivulet. In my way thither, 1 still ob- 
served that saline substance of which I have already spoken; but 
on the mountain it no longer existed, and I could discover no 
traces of it. 

The return of the Hottentot freed the Houzouanas from their 
fear; and the accounts which he gave of— my behaviour, inspired 
them with the utmost confidence. Scarcely had I arranged my 
camp, when they all came in a friendly manner to visit me. You 
would have supposed that we had been long united by recip- 
rocal sentiments of fraternity; but it was not thus with my people. 
The name Houzouanas, had struck their minds with so much 
dread, their prejudices were so deeply rooted, that they could not 
look at them without a panic; and till the moment of our depar- 
ture, they continued to behold them with the same horror. 

What, during my first journey, had been the fear they enter- 
tained of the Caffres, such in my second was that inspired by the 
Houzouanas; and I had no more hope of curing it in the present 
than in the former instance. The savage, surrounded by enemies 
and dangers, must be necessarily mistrustful and suspicious. 
If, among the enemies he has to dread, there are some who are 
truly formidable, his mistrust is converted into terror. The name 
alone of these will make him tremble; he gives credit to the most 
improbable tales and most ridiculous fables that may be told res- 
pecting them; and, being thus previously subjected by this timid- 
ity, he becomes an easy conquest. The first successful expedition 
is sufficient to establish the empire of one horde over all the rest. 
Such has been the fortune of the Houzouanas; their name is trans- 
mitted with terror, from- mouth to mouth; their renown is con- 
veyed from district to district, even to the Cape, where the most 
absurd relations are propagated concerning them. Their wandering 
life gives to these relations additional credit; the impossibility of 
knowing them doubles, in the eyes of the other savages, their 
real strength; and they are believed to be numerous, because they 
are seen always active, and take their enemies by surprise. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 347 

Their horde, very inconsiderable of itself, was still more so at this 
time, by the absence of part of those who composed part of it They 
had gone out as they term it, to procure provision; and there remained 
in the kraal, twenty-seven men only, seven women, and a few 
children. These waited for the return of their companions, in 
order to quit their establishment, and repair in a body, by a south- 
west route, towards the mouth of Orange river. Men, whose 
mode of life subjects them to the continual apprehension of being 
attacked, or who are frequently obliged to make distant excur- 
sions, cannot long inhabit the same spot. It was only in the 
course of their passing it, that they had settled near the rivulet; 
and it was a fortunate circumstance for me that I fell in with them. 
The Houzouanas are of a low stature; and a person five feet 
four inches in height, is accounted among them very tall; but in their 
little bodies, perfectly Well proportioned, are united with surpris- 
ing strength and agility, a certain air of assurance, boldness, and 
haughtiness, which awes the beholder, and with which I was 
greatly pleased. Of all the savage races, I have seen none that 
appeared to be endowed with so active a mind, and so hardy a 
constitution. 

Their head, though it exhibits the principal characteristics of 
that of the Hottentot, is, however, rounder towards the chin. 
They are also not so black in complexion; but have the lead colour 
of the Malays, distinguished at the Cape by the name of bougiii- 
nee. Their hair, more woolly, is so short, that I imagined at 
first, their heads to have been shaved. The nose too is still flat- 
ter than that of the Hottentots; or, rather, they seem altogether 
destitute of a nose; what they have consisting of two broad nos- 
trils, which project at most but five or six lines. Accordingly, 
mine being the only one in the company formed after the Euro- 
pean manner, I appeared in their eyes, as a being disfigured by 
nature. They could not be reconciled to this difference, which 
they considered as a monstrous deformity; and, during the first 
days of my residence among them, I saw their eyes continually 
fixed on my countenance, with an air of astonishment truly 
laughable. 

From this conformation of the nose, a Houzouana, when seen 
in profile, is the reverse of handsome, and considerably resembles 
an ape. When beheld in front, he presents, on the first view, an 
extraordinary appearance, as half the face seems to be forehead. 
The features, however, are so expressive, and the eyes so large 
and lively, that, notwithstanding this singularity of look, the coun- 
tenance is tolerably agreeable. 

As the heat of the climate in which he lives renders clothing 
unnecessary, he continues, during the whole year, almost entirely 
naked, having no other covering than a very small jackal-skin 
fastened round his loins by two thongs, the extremities of which 
hang down to his knees. Hardened by this constant habit of naked- 



JHS THE FLOWERS OF 

ness, he becomes so insensible to the variations of the atmosphere, 
that, when he removes from the burning sands of the level coun- 
try, to the snow and the hoar frost of his mountains, he seems 
indifferent, and not even to feel the cold. 

His hut in no wise resembles that of the Hottentot. It appears 
as if cut vertically through the middle, so that the hut of a Hot- 
tentot, would make two of the Heuzouanas. During their emi- 
grations, they leave them standing, in order that, if any other 
horde of the same nation pass that way, they may make use of 
them. — When on a journey they have nothing to repose on but 
a mat suspended from two sticks, and placed in an inclined posi- 
tion. They often sleep on the bare ground. A projecting rock 
is then sufficient to shelter them; for every thing is suited to a peo- 
ple whose constitutions are proof against the severest fatigue. If, 
however, they stop any where to sojourn for awhile, and rind mate- 
rials for constructing huts, they then form a kraal; but they aban- 
don it on their departure, as is the case with all the huts which 
they erect. 

This custom of labouring for others of their tribe, announces a 
social character and a benevolent disposition. They are, indeed, 
not only affectionate husbands and good fathers, but excellent com- 
panions. When they inhabit a kraal, there is no such thing 
among them as private property; whatever they possess is in com- 
mon. If two hordes of the same nation meet, the reception is on 
both sides friendly. They afford each other mutual protection, and 
confer reciprocal obligations. In short, they treat one another as 
brethren, though perhaps they are perfect strangers, and have 
never seen each other before. 

Active and nimble , by nature, the Houzouana considers it as 
amusement to climb mountains and the most elevated peaks; and 
their skill in this respect was very advantageous to me. The riv- 
ulet near which I had encamped, had a coppery taste and a nause- 
ous smell, which rendered it impossible for me to drink the 
water. My cattle, accustomed to the bad water of the country, 
were satisfied with it: but I was afraid that it might injure my 
people; and, I would on that account, not permit them to use it. 
The Houzouanas had no milk to give me, as they possessed 
only a few wretched cows which they had plundered. Having 
asked them if they knew of any good spring in the neighborhood, 
to which I could send my company to pi'ocure a supply of water, 
they set out themselves in an instant, without making me a reply, 
clambered uj;> the mountains and in less than two hours, brought 
back all my leather bottles and vessels full of excellent water. 

During the whole time of my residence on the rivulet, they 
rendered me the same service, uniformly displaying the same zeal 
and the same readiness. One of these expeditious would have 
employed my Hottentots a whole day. 

When on a journey, scarcity of water gives them no uneasi- 
ness, even in the middle of a desert. By a particular art, they can 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 349 

discover water that is concealed in the bowels of the earth; and 
their instinct, in this point, is even superior to that of the other 
Africans. Animals in like cases of distress, find water also; but 
it is oniy by the smell. There must be a current of air to convey 
to them the exhaltation which arises from it, and consequently 
they must be to the leeward, — While I resided in the desert, 
during my first journey, my savages had shewn more than once 
the same faculty; and I myself acquired it also from their instruct 
tion, as I have mentioned in my narrative. The Houzouana, 
more expert, employs only his sight. He throws himself flat on 
the ground, takes a distant view, and, if the space which he tra- 
verses •with his eye, conceals any subterranean spring, he rises 
and points with his finger to the spot where it is to be found. The 
only thing by which he discovers it, is that ethereal and subtile 
exhaltation which evaporates from every current of water, when not 
sunk to too great a depth. 

With regard to pools and other collections formed by the rain, 
as their evaporation is more sensible, they are discoverable even 
when hid by an eminence or a hill; and the vapour of streams, 
such as rivers or rivulets, being still more abundant, is so distinctly 
marked by it, that their course, and even all their sinuosities- may 
be traced. 

I endeavoured to learn this art of the Houzouanas, during the 
time I resided amongst them. I followed their example, and 
practised their lessons; and was at length able to make similar 
discoveries, and with as much certainty. My talent, however, 
was far from being so extensive as theirs; for, owing either to the 
natural weakness of my sight, or the want of experience, I could 
distinguish water at no greater distance than three hundred paces, 
while they could perceive it a distance much more considerable. 

The only arms of the Houzouanas, are bows and arrows. The 
arrows, which are very short, are carried on the shoulder in a 
quiver, about eighteen inches in length, and four in diameter, 
made of the bark of the aloe, and covered with the skin of a large 
species of lizard, which these wanderers find in all their rivers, 
particularly on the banks of Orange and Fish rivers. 

Obliged to maintain a numerous troop, and being desirous that 
the whole horde should participate in my game, of which 1 pro- 
cured abundance, I went out daily to the chase, always accompa- 
nied by a great number of the Houzouanas. If I hunted in the 
mountains, I climbed the rocks with them. In the plain I used 
one of my horses; but, whether they followed me or were em- 
ployed in driving towards me the zebras and antelopes, they shew- 
ed themselves indefatigable; and, however fast I rode, I always 
found them keep pace with me. 

My people, prejudiced against this nation, were filled with 
alarm whenever they saw me thus occupied. Every report of my 
gun made them tremble. They continually imagined that the 



350 THE FLOWERS OF 

Houzouanas were in the act of assassinating me, and that thyy 
should afterwards experience themselves the same fate; and they 
never beheld me return to my camp without testifying their joy, 
considering me as a man escaped from death. 

For myselt, being daily employed in rendering them services, 
and seeing these savages on their part, ever ready to oblige me, I 
laughed at such vain terrors. In my way of judging, I had nothing 
to apprehend from a people who gained so much by my presence, 
and who would, consequently, have been considerable losers by my 
death. 

During the long excursions which we made together, they in 
no instance belied their character. In many respects they resem- 
ble the Arabs, who, being also wanderers, and, like them, brave 
and addicted to rapine, adhere with unalterable fidelity to their 
engagements, and defend, even to the last drop of their blood, the 
traveller who civilly purchases their services, and puts himself 
under their protection. 

If my plan of traversing from south to north, the whole of 
Africa was at all practicable, I repeat it, it could have been accom- 
plished only with the Houzouanas. I am convinced, that fifty men 
of this temperate, brave, and indefatigable nation, would have been 
sufficient to enable me to carry it into execution; and I shall al- 
ways regret that I became acquainted with them too late for the 
trial, and at a period when numberless misfortunes had compelled 
me, for a time at least, to renounce the idea. 

With whatever confidence, however, their fidelity had inspired 
me, I did not neglect the precautions dictated by prudence. I 
never trusted myself with them beyond the precincts of my camp, 
unless when well armed. I will even confess that, at first, I made 
my people keep watch; that I had constantly a dog in my tent 
during the night, and that my fire-arms were always well loaded. — 
But at the same time, I must also acknowledge that, in taking 
these precautions, I had not so much in view the Houzouanas of 
the horde, as the rest of their nation, who, not being acquainted, 
and having contracted no alliance with me, might discover my 
fires, and think themselves authorised to take me by surprise, and 
attack me in the night, after the manner of those free-booters, 
known in general by the name of Boshmen. 

My adventures have given me already many opportunities of 
speaking of these Boshmen. I have before said, that the people 
at the Cape, comprehend under this general appellation, every man, 
of every nation or colour, wl\o, deserting, retires to the forest or 
the mountains, there to associate with other fugitives, live with 
them under such laws as a baWl of robbers may he supposed to 
form, and subsist by rapine, without even sparing similar associa- 
tions of his fellows and equals. 

The Houzouanas, being known -o«ly by their incursions and 
plundering, are in the colonies often confounded with the Bosh- 
men, and distinguished .by the same appellation. Sometimes, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 3^5X 

however, from their tawny colour, they are called the Chinese 
Hottentots; and, hy means of this double denomination, ill inform- 
ed travellers may easiiy be led into an error, of which the 
consequence must be, that their narratives will be replete with 
absurdity and falsehood. 

Their real name, and the only one which they give themselves, 
is that of Houzouana; and they having nothing in common with 
the Boshmen, who are not a distinct people, but a mere collection 
of fugitives and free-booters. The Houzouanas form no alliances 
but among themselves. Being almost always at war with the sur- 
rounding nations, they never mix with them; and, if they consent 
at any time, to admit a stranger into their hordes, it is only after a 
long acquaintance, a sort of appi'enticeship, during which he has 
given proofs of his fidelity, and established his courage. The 
Hottentot whom I found there, had submitted to this trial, and 
from the manner in which he had acquitted himself, was held in 
the highest estimation. 

Though the Houzouanas are wanderers in their country, and spend 
the greater part of the year in emigrations, ^ind distant excursions, 
they inhabit an immense district, of which, indeed, they are almost 
the sole inhabitants, and from which in my opinion, no nation would 
be able to expel them. It forms that part of Africa, which, in a 
direction from east to west, extends from Caffraria to the country 
of the Greater Nimiguas. With regard to its breadth from south to 
north, I am ignorant of its extent; but I believe it to be very con- 
siderable; and not only because an immense territory is necessary 
to so wandering a people, but also because I have reason to 
think the individuals of this nation to be very numerous. 

It is supposed at the Cape, that their population is small; and the 
reason of this opinion is, that when they emigrate to the western 
coasts, whether for the purpose of subsisting there for a time or to 
plunder, they are never seen in large bodies. But with these 
people this is only a stratagem. Afraid of being attacked, were 
their numbers known, they conceal their march as much as pos- 
sible. — They pursue their course through the narrowest defiles, or 
over the tops of fountains; and frequently even they travel only 
by night. This causes them to be the more dreaded; and it is often 
imagined that they are in the neighbourhood, when they are a hun- 
dred or perhaps two hundred leagues distant. 

I am inclined to believe that the Houzouanas are the original 
stem of the various nations inhabiting at present the southern part 
of Africa, and that from them all the tribes of the eastern and 
western Hottentots are descended. Proofs of this, I think, may 
be perceived in their features, and in that clapping neise in their 
tongue, when they speak, which in them is much more striking. 

These, however, are vague conclusions, insufficient to establish 
the fact in question, which requires more decisive testimonies. 
The people themselves know nothing of their origin. In vain 



352 TttE FLOWERS OF 

did I several times interrogate them on the subject; they always 
replied that they inhabited the same country which had been in- 
habited by their ancestors; and this was all the satisfaction I could 
obtain. Vaillant's travels in Africa. 



SECTION CXIX. 

Of the African Elephants. 

AFTER travelling fourteen leagues, which was the business of 
three days, I arrived at the Green river. But how much did I 
still deceive myself by the dreams of my imagination. 

The first object I noticed on my arrival, was the dung of an 
elephant, yet warm. This indicated that some of these animals 
were near. I took Swanepoel with me, and, without losing time^ 
set off to trace them while my camp was erecting To see me 
depart attended only by a single man, it seemed as if I were going 
to kill a hare or a rabbit. Formerly I should not in this manner, 
have ventured at such sport; but insensibly we become hardy, so 
that the greatest dangers appear no more than common occur- 
rences. 

We had not proceeded three hundred paces, before we perceived 
five elephants standing in the midst of the trees that, skirled the 
river. Each of us singled out his object, each brought down his 
beast, and the other three fled. At the report my hunters hast- 
ened to us; and when arrived, my old Swanepoel, hitherto consider- 
ed by them as an honest fellow, fit only to take care of my chickens, 
tauntingly pointed at the elephant he had killed, and asked if they 
could mend the shot. 

The animals were both males, and nearly of the same height 
and bulk, measuring about ten feet each.* This is the usual size 
of elephants in Africa, where it is very rare to meet with any that 
reach to eleven or twelve feet. They were however, not of the 
same age, and consequently their tusks were very unequal; those 
of one weighing seventy or eighty pounds, while those of the 
other did not exceed five-and-thirty or forty. 

What convinced me still more of the difference of their ages, 
was, that the heavier tusks were nearly solid throughout, while 
the others were hollow two-thirds of their length: the elder, too, 
had his grinding teeth much worn, while the grinding teeth of 
the other were in good preservation, and entire. The ivory of old 
elephants, being more compact and heavy, is more valuable, and 
letches a higher price: from its density it takes also a finer polish, 
appears whiter, and is less liable to grow yellow. 

* Ten feet eight inches English 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 353 

The Green-river was covered with aquatic fowls of all kinds 
particularly pelicans, flamingoes, and wild-geese. I also met with 
the night-heron, the crested purple heron, the common heron, 
and the black stork, all exactly similar to those of Europe. 

The dead elephants procured me several birds of prey. I con- 
structed, within shot of their carcasses, a little harbour, in which I 
concealed myself to lie in wait for such birds as should come to feed 
on them. From morning till night, they alighted by hundreds, 
and I killed such as appeared to me to deserve the preference. 

During my residence at Green-river, I changed my encampment 
several times, and thus travelled over a space of eight or ten 
leagues on its banks. * At length I quitted them, and gained those 
of the Black Thorn, at the very place where I met Pinar for the 
first time. I spent the night there, and next day bent my course 
towards the mountains to the south. The road was terrible fop 
my wagons. After a laborious march of six hours, we arrived at 
the foot of a chain of arid mountains, the bare and rusty rocks of 
which, picturesquely heaped on one another, exhibited a singular 
and fantastic spectacle; but none could be better calculated for a 
retreat to the Boshman. On seeing them, I whispered to myself, 
that I ought to be on my guard; yet, notwithstanding my mistrust, 
I was taken unawares. 

My people were busy in pitching my camp. I, in the mean- 
time, having perceived some wood-peckers, of" a scarce species, 
which I have named the rock wood-pecker, followed them, and 
found myself insensibly on one of the cliffs, from which I over- 
looked my camp. 

Suddenly I heard three discharges of my large carbine, as sig- 
nals of alarm. Looking about me, I saw on the one hand, my 
people running in disorder, and on the other, a party of Boshmen, 
who had seized my oxen, and were driving them into a defile, 
where they would soon be out of sight. 

I descended the mountain with precipitancy, and, when I ar- 
rived at its foot, I found Klaas galloping to inform me of my mis- 
fortune. He gave me his horse. I mounted it, and rode full 
speed toward the defile; but I had scarcely advanced fifty paces, 
when my horse stumbled in a porcupine's hole and threw me on 
my side. My fall was so severe, that, when I arose, I could not 
use my left ann, and I imagined my shoulder to be dislocated. - 
Klaas came to me: I ordered him to remount the horse, while I 
returned to the camp on foot, unable to take any part in this ad- 
venture, and leaving my people to terminate it in the best way 
they could. It was night before they returned, when I learned 
with sorrow, that two of the Boshmen had been killed. All my 
oxen, however, were brought back except three; and these were 
not missed till we were about to depart the next day. 
45 



354 THE FLOWERS OF 

That the robbers might not make another attempt, I departed 
at day-break, and by a march of six or seven hours, in the same 
direction as the day before, I arrived at a place where I was met 
by some Hottentots, of the horde of Klaas Raster, who knew me. 
They informed us, that his horde had quitted the mountains of 
Namero, and had settled five leagues from the spot where I was. 

Baster being still with me, I conceived myself bound in grati- 
tude, after the important services I had received at his- hands, to 
restore him in person to the arms of his wife, his children, and 
friends. I repaired, therefore, to the horde. His return occa- 
sioned inexpressible joy; which was so much the greater, as they 
supposed us to be dead, and had despaired of ever seeing us more. 
It was in consequence of this persuasion, that they had thought pro- 
per to remove and settle in another place. 

The people of the horde, told me another piece of news, which 
gave me still greater pleasure than the former; it was. that the 
worthy Schoenmaker had also quitted the mountains, and estab- 
lished his camp in the neighbourhood. Eager to see this honest 
being} for whom I had so great an esteem, and to whom I owed so 
fnany obligations, I instantly paid him a visit, and embraced him 
with the tenderest affection. 

The services which he had exerted himself to render me, were 
alive in my memory and my heart, and I wanted no new motive 
to interest me in his behalf: but I confess I could not behold him 
surrounded with his wives and children, like a good father and kind 
husband, without feeling myself still more inclined to serve him 
to the utmost of my power. 

I acquainted him with the design I had formed of soliciting his 
pardon, and of obtaining from the government, leave for him to 
return to the colony. He thanked me with emotion for the kind- 
ness of my intentions: but, though he had great confidence in the 
friendship with which colonel Gordon honoured him, and still 
greater in the zeal I displayed for his welfare, he had little hope 
of my success; no instance, he said, of such pardon having ever 
been known. ^ 

I encouraged him as much as I could, by assuring him of the 
warmth with which I would solicit the favour. Indeed that with 
which he inspired me at the moment was so great, that, not doubl- 
ing of success, I protested that he should soon hear from me, and 
requested him to be in readiness to set off at the earliest notice. 

He listened to my consolatory promises with tears: but the fear 
of their failure was predominant; and his imagination, so long 
tortured with continual anxiety, depicted to him a thousand chim- 
eras, which he dared not combat himself, and which I had great 
difficulty to destroy. 

To dissipate these gloomy ideas, and revive his spirits, I turned 
his mind to another object. I spoke to him of his little hermitage 
near the Orange, related my adventure with the travellers I had 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLER^, 355 



met, and told him how I had taken upon myself to dispose of the 
place, and bestow it on an unfortunate family; not doubting, from 
the testimonies he had given me of his friendship, but he would 
confirm a gift made without his consent. As I had supposed, he 
approved it without the smallest hesitation. 

"When I arrived in these deserts," said he, "I was without 
shelter, and without resource, like those on whom you have be- 
stowed your protection. My own misfortunes have rendered me 
sensible to those of others. I congratulate myself on the good 
use you have made of my little estate. May it prove the asylum 
you wish, and long preserve the remembrance of its founder, and 
of him who has thus consecrated it by an act of benevolence!'* 

Vaiij,aj?t< 



SECTION CXX. 

Persons and Qualifications of the Aborigines of North 

America. 

THE males of the Cherokees, Muscogulges, Siminoles, Chic* 
asaws, Chactaws, and confederate tribes of the Creeks, are tall, 
erect, and moderatly robust; their limbs well shaped, so as gen- 
erally to form a perfect human figure: their features regular, and 
countenance open, dignified, and placid; yet the forehead and 
brow so formed, as to strike you instantly with heroism and bra- 
very; the eye, though rather small, yet active and full of fire: the 
iris always black, and the nose commonly inclining to the aqui- 
line. 

Their countenance and actions, exhibit an air of magnanimity, 
superiority, and independence. 

Their complexion, of a reddish-brown or copper colour; their 
hair long, lank, coarse, and black as a raven, and reflecting the 
like lustre at different exposures to the light. 

The women of the Cherokees, are tall, slender, erect, and of a 
delicate frame; their features formed with perfect symmetry, their 
countenance cheerful and friendly, and they move with a becom- 
ing grace and dignity. 

The Muscogulge women, though remarkably short of stature, 
are well formed; their visage round, features regular and beautiful; 
the brow high and arched, the eye large, black and languishing, 
expressive of modesty, diffidence, and bashfulness; these charms 
are their defensive and offensive weapons, and they know very 
well how to play them off; and under cover of these alluring 
graces, is concealed the most subtle artifice; they are, however, 
loving and affectionate: they are, I believe, the smallest race of 
women yet known, seldom above five feet high, and I believe the 



35G THE FLOWERS OF 

greater number never arrive to that stature; their hands and feel 
not larger than those of Europeans of nine or ten years of age: 
yet the men are of gigantic stature, a full size larger than Europe- 
ans; many of them above six feet, and few under that, or five feet, 
eight or ten inches; their complexion much darker than any of the 
tribes to the north of them, that I have seen. This description 
will, I believe, comprehend the Muscogulges, their confederates, 
the Chactaws, and I believe, the Chicasaws, (though I have never 
seen their women,) excepting however, some bands of the Simi- 
noles, Uches, and Savannucas, who are rather taller and slenderer, 
in their complexion, brighter. 

The Cherokees are yet taller and more robust than the Musco- 
gulges, and by far the largest race of men I have ever seen;* their 
complexions brighter and somewhat of the olive cast, especially 
the adults; and some of their young women, are nearly as fair and 
blooming as European women. 

The Cherokees, in their dispositions and manners, are grave 
and steady; dignified and circumspect in their deportment; rather 
slow and reserved in conversation; yet frank, cheerful, and hu- 
mane; tenacious of the liberties and natural rights of man; secret, 
deliberate, and determined in their counsels; honest, just, and 
liberal, and ready always to sacrifice every pleasure and gratifica- 
tion, even their blood, and life itself, to defend their territory and 
maintain their rights. They do homage to the Muscogulges with 
reluctance, and are impatient under that galling j-oke. I was 
witness to a most humiliating lash, which they passively received 
from their red masters, at the great congress and treaty of Au- 
gusta, when these people acceded, with the Creeks, to the cession 
of the New Purchase; where were about three hundred of the 
Creeks, a great part of whom were warriors, and about one hun- 
dred Cherokees. 

The first day of convention opened with settling the prelimi- 
naries', One article of which, was a demand on the part of the 
Georgians, to a territory lying on the Tugilo, and claimed by them 
both, which it seems the Cherokees had, previous to the opening 
of the convention, privately conveyed to the Georgians, unknown 
to the Creeks. The Georgians mentioning this as a matter set- 
tled, the Creeks demanded in council, on what foundation they 
built that claim, saying that they had never ceded those lands. 
The Georgians answered, that they bought them of their friends 
and brothers, the Cherokees. The Creeks nettled and incensed 
at this, a chief and a warrior started up, and with an agitated and 
terrific countenance, frowning menaces and disdain, fixed his eyes 

* There are, however, some exceptions to this general observation, as I have 
myself witnessed. Their present grand chief or emperor, (the Little Carpen- 
ter, Atta-kull-kulla,) is a man of remarkably small stature, slender, and of a 
delicate frame, the only instance I saw in the nation; but he is a man of stipe, 
rior abilities,, 



CELEBRATED, TRAVELLERS. 357 

on the Cherokee chiefs, and asked them what right they had to give 
away their lands, calling them old women, and saying they had 
long ago obliged them to wear the petticoat; a most humiliating 
and degrading stroke, in the presence of the chiefs of the whole 
Museogulge confederacy, of the Chicasaws, principal men and citi- 
zens of Georgia, Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania, 
in the face of their own chiefs and citizens, and amidst the laugh 
and jeers of the assembly, especially the young men of Virginia, 
their old enemies and dreaded neighbours: but humiliating as it 
really ^-'as, they were obliged to bear the stigma passively, and 
even without reply. 

And moreover, these arrogant bravos and usurpers, carried their 
pride and importance to such lengths, as even to threaten to dis- 
solve the congress and return home, unless the Georgians consent- 
ed to annul the secret treaty with the Cherokees, and receive that 
territory immediately from them, as acknowledging their exclusive 
right of alienation ; which was complied with, though violently 
extorted from the Cherokees, contrary to the right and sanction of 
treaties ; since the Savanna river and its waters xvere acknow- 
ledged to be the natural and just bounds of territory betwixt the 
Cherokees and Museogulges. 

The national character of the Museogulges, when considered in a 
political view, exhibits a portraiture of a great or illustrious hero. 
A proud, haughty, and arrogant race of men, they are brave and 
valiant in war, ambitious of conquest, restless and perpetually ex- 
ercising their arms, yet magnanimous and merciful to a vanquish- 
ed enemy, when he submits and seeks' their friendship and pro- 
tection: always uniting the vanquished tribes in confederacy with 
them; when they immediately enjoy, unexceptionably, every right 
of free citizens, and are, from that moment, united in one common 
band of brotherhood. They were never known to exterminate 
a tribe, except the Yamasees, who would never submit on any 
terms, but fought it out to the very last, only about forty or fifty 
of them escaped at the last decisive battle, who threw themselves 
under the protection of the Spanish atSt. Augustine. 

According to their own account, which I believe to be true, 
after their arrival in the country, they joined in alliance and per- 
petual amity with the British colonists of South Carolina and 
Georgia, which they never openly violated; but, on the contrary, 
pursued every step to strengthen the alliance; and their aged chiefs 
to this day speak of it with tears of joy, and exult in that memor- 
able transaction, as one of the most glorious events in the annals 
of their nation. 

As an instance of their ideas of political impartial justice and 
homage to the Supreme Bcingy as the high arbiter of human 
transactions, who alone claims the right of taking away the life 
of man, I beg leave to offer to the reader's consideration, the fol- 



S5S THE FLOWERS Of 

lowing event, as I had it from the mouth of a Spaniard, a respect- 
able inhabitant of East Florida. 

The son of the Spanish governor of St. Augustine, together 
with two young gentlemen, his friends and associates, conceived 
a design of amusing themselves in a party of sport, at hunting and 
fishing. Having provided themselves with a convenient bark, 
ammunition, fishing tackle, &c. they set sail, directing their course 
south, along the coast, towards the point of Florida, putting into 
bays and rivers, as conveniency and the prospect of game invited 
them. The pleasing, rural and diversified scenes of the Florida 
coast, imperceptibly allured them far to the south, beyond the 
Spanish fortified post. Unfortunate youths! regardless of the ad- 
vice and injunctions of their parents and friends, still pursuing 
the delusive objects, they entered a harbour at evening, with a 
view of chasing the roebuck, and hunting up the sturdy bear, sola- 
cing themselves with delicious fruits, and reposing under aro- 
matic shades; when, alas! cruel unexpected event! in the beatific 
moments of their slumbers, they were surrounded, arrested and 
carried off by a predatory band of Creek Indians; proud of the 
capture of such a prize, they hurry away into cruel bondage the 
hapless youths, conducting them by devious paths, through dreary 
swamps and boundless savannahs to their nation. 

At that time, the Indians were at furious war with 1he Spaniards, 
scarcely any bounds set to their cruelties on either side: in short, 
the miserable youths where condemned to be burnt. 

But there were English traders in these towns, who, learning 
the character of the captives, and expecting great ie wards from 
the Spanish governer if they could deliver them, petitioned the 
Indians on their behalf, expressing their wishes to obtain their 
rescue, offering a great ransom; acquainting them at the same time, 
that they were young men of high rank, and one of them the gov- 
ernor's son. 

Upon this, the head men, or chiefs of the whole nation, were 
convened, and, after a solemn and mature deliberation, they re- 
turned the traders their final answer and determination, which was 
as follows: 

" Brothers and friends, we have been considering upon this 
business concerning the captives — and that under the eye and fear 
of the Great Spirit. You know that these people are our cruel ene- 
mies ; they save no lives of us red men. who fall into their power. 
You say that the youth is the son of the Spanish governor; we be- 
lieve it; we are sorry he has fallen into our hands, but he is our 
enemy: the two young men (his friends) are equally our enemies; 
we are sorry to see them here; but we know no difference in their 
flesh and blood; they are equally our enemies ; if we save one, we 
must save all three; but we cannot do it; the red men require their 
blood to appease the spirits of their slain relatives; they have en- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 359 

trusted us with the guardianship of our laws and rights, we can- 
not betray them. 

"However, we have a sacred prescription relative to this affair, 
which allows us to extend mercy to a certain degree: a third is saved 
by lot: the Great Spirit allows us to put it to that decision; he is no 
respecter of persons." The lots were cast. The governor's son 
was taken and burnt. 

If we consider them with respect to their private character, or 
in a moral view, they must, I think, claim our approbation, if we 
divest ourselves of prejudice, and think freely. As moral men, they 
stand in no need of European civilization. 

They are just, honest, liberal, andhospitble to strangers; con- 
siderate, loving, and affectionate to their wives and relations: fond 
oftheir children; industrious, frugal, temperate, and persevering; 
charitable and forbaring. I have been weeks and months amongst 
them and in their towns, and never observed the least sign of 
contention or wrangling; never saw an instance of an Indian beat- 
ing his wife, or even reproving her in anger. In this case, they 
stand as examples of reproof to the most civilized nations, as not 
being defective in justice, gratitude, and a good understanding; 
for indeed their wives merit their esteem, and the most gentle 
treatment; they being industrious, frugal, careful, loving, and 
affectionate. 

The Muscogulges are more volatile, sprightly, and talkative 
than their nothern neighbours, the Cherokees; and, though far 
more distant from the white settlements than any nation east of 
the Mississippi or Ohio, appear evidently to have made greater 
advances towards the refinements of true civilization, which can- 
not, in the least degree, be attributed to the good example of the 
white people. 

Their internal policy and family economy, at once engage the 
notice of European travellers, and incontrovertibly place these peo- 
ple in an ilhistrious point of view: their liberality, intimacy, and 
friendly intercourse with one another, without any restraint of 
ceremonious formality, as if they were even insensible of the use or 
necessity of associating the passions or affections of avarice, am- 
bition, or covetousness. 

A man goes forth on his business or avocations; he calls in at an- 
other town; if he wants victuals, rest, or social conversation, he 
confidently approaches the door of the first house he chooses, say- 
ing, "I am come;" the good man or women replies, "You are; 
it is well." Immediately victuals and drink are ready; he eats 
and drinks a little, then smokes tobacco, and converses either of 
private matters, public talks, or the news of the town. He rises 
and says, "I go!" the other answers, "You do." He then pro~ 
ceeds again, and steps in at the next habitation he likes, or repairs 
to the public square, where are people always conversing by day, 
or dancing all night, or to some private assembly, as he likes; he 



360 THE FLOWEUS OF 

needs no one to introduce him, any more than the blackbird or 
thrush, when he repairs to the fruitful groves, to regale on their 
luxuries, and entertain the fond female with evening songs. 

It is astonishing, though a fact, as well as a sharp reproof to the 
white people, if they will allow themselves liberty to reflect and 
form a just estimate; and T must own, elevates these people to the 
first rank among mankind, that they have been able to resist the 
continual efforts of the complicated hosts of vices, that have for 
ages over-run the nations of the old world, and so contaminated 
their morals; yet more so, since vast armies of these evil spirits, 
have invaded this continent, and closely invested them on all 
sides. Astonishing, indeed! when we behold the ill, immoral con- 
duct of too many white people, who reside amongst them: not- 
withstanding which, it seems natural, eligible, and even easy, for 
these simple, illiterate people, to put in practice those beautiful 
lectures delivered to us by the ancient sages and philosophers, and 
recorded for our instruction. 

I saw a young Indian in the nation, who, when present, and 
beholding the scenes of mad intemperance and folly, acted by the 
white men in the town, clapped his hand to his breast, and with 
a smile looked aloft, as if struck with astonishment, and wrapt in 
love and adoration to the Deity; as who should say. ?'-0 thou great 
and good Spirit! we are indeed sensible of thy benignity and fa- 
vour to us red men, in denying us the understanding of white men. 
We did not know, before they come amongst us, that mankind 
could become so base, and fall so far below the dignity of their 
nature. Defend us from their manners, laws, and power." 

The Muscogulges, with their confederates, the Chactaws, Chica- 
saws, and perhaps the Cherokees, eminently deserve the encomi- 
um of all nations, for their wisdom and virtue in resisting, and 
even repelling the greatest, and even the common enemy of man- 
kind, at least of most of the European nations, I mean spirituous 
liquors. 

The first and most cogent article in all their treaties with the 
white people is, that there shall not be any kind of spirituous 
liquors sold or brought into their town, and the traders are allowed 
but two kegs, (five gallons each,) which is supposed to be suffi- 
cient for a company, to serve them on the road; and if any of this 
remains, on their approaching the towns, they must spill it on the 
ground, or secret it on the road, for it must not come into the 
town. 

On my journey from Mobile to the nation, just after we had 
passed the junction of the Pensacola road with our path, two 
young traders overtook us on their way to the nation. We en- 
quired, what news? They informed us, that they were running 
about forty kegs of Jamaica spirits (which by dashing would have 
made at least eighty kegs) to the nation; and after having left the 
town three or four days, they were surprised on the road in the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 361 

evening just after they had come to camp, by a party of Creeks, 
who discovering their species of merchandize, they forthwith 
struck their tomahawks into every keg, giving the liquor to the 
thirsty sand, not tasting a drop of it themselves; and they had 
enough to do to keep from striking the tomahawks into their skulls. 

How are we to account for their excellent policy in civil gov- 
ernment? it cannot derive its influence from coercive laws, for they 
have no such artificial system. Divine wisdom dictates, and they 
obey. 

We see and know full well the direful effects of this torrent of 
evil, which has its source in hell; and we know surely, as well 
as these savages, how to divert its course and suppress its inunda-* 
lions. Do we want wisdom and virtue? Let our youth then re^- 
pair to the venerable councils of the Muscogulges. 

Bartram's travels jn North America. 



SECTION CXXI. 

Government and Civil Society of the Aborigines of North 

America. 

THE constitution or system of their police, is simply natural, and 
as little complicated as that which is supposed to direct or rule 
the approved economy of the ant and the bee; and seems to be 
nothing more than the simple dictates of natural reason, plain to 
every one, yet recommended to them by their wise and virtuous 
elders as divine, because necessary for securing mutual happiness: 
equally binding and effectual, as being proposed and assented to 
in the general combination; every one's conscience being a suffi- 
cient eonviction: the- golden rule (do a6 you would be done by,) 
instantly presents to view, and produces a society of peace and 
love, which in effect better maintains human happiness, than the 
most complicated system of modern politics, or sumptuary laws, 
enforced by coercive means: for here the people are all on an 
equality, as to possessions and enjoyments of the common neces- 
saries and conveniences of life,— for luxuries and superfluities, 
they have none. 

This natural constitution, is simply subordinate; and the supreme, 
sovereign, or executive power, resides in a council of elderly 
chiefs, warriors and others, respectable for wisdom, valour, and 
virtue. 

At the head of this venerable senate, presides their mico or king, 
which signifies a magistrate or chief ruler: the governors of Caro- 
lina, Georgia, &c. are called micos; and the king ©f England \% 
46 



362 THE FLOWERS OF 

called ant-apala-mico-clucco,* that is, the great king, over or be- 
yond the great water. 

The king, though he is acknowledged to be the first and greatest 
man in the town or tribe, and honoured with every due and ra- 
tional mark of love and esteem, and when presiding in council, 
With a humility and homage as reverent a? that paid to the most 
despotic monarch in Europe or the East; and when absent, his 
seat is not filled by any other person, yet he is not dreaded; and 
when out of the council, he associates with the people as a com- 
mon man, converses with them, and they with him, in perfect 
ease and familiarity. 

The mico or king, though elective, yet his advancement to that 
supreme dignity, must be understood in a very different light from 
the elective monarchs of the old world, where the progress to 
magistracy is generally effected by schism, and the influence of 
friends, gained by craft, bribery, and often by more violent efforts; 
and, after the throne is obtained, by measures little better than 
usurpation, he must be protected and supported there, by the same 
base means that carried him thither. 

But here behold the majesty of the Muscogulge mico ! he does 
not either publicly or privately, beg of the people to place him 
in a situation in <> omm and and rule them; no, his appearance is 
altogether mysterious; as a beneficent deity, he rises king over 
them, as the sun rises to bless the earth! 

No one will tell you how or when he became their king; but 
he is universally acknowledged to be the greatest person among 
them, and he is loved, esteemed, and reverenced, although he as- 
sociates, eats, drinks, and dances with them in common as another 
man; his dress is the same, and a stranger could not distinguish 
the king's habitation from that of any other citizen, by any sort 
of splendour or magnificence; yet he perceives they act as though 
their mico beheld them, himself invisible. In a word, their mico 
seems to them the representative of Providence, or the Great 
Spirit, whom they acknowledge to preside over and influence their 
councils and public proceedings. He personally presides daily in 
their councils, either at the rotunda, or public square; and even 
here his voice, -in regard to business in hand, is regarded no more 
than any other chief's or senator's, no farther than his advice, as 
being the best and wisest man in the tribe, and not by virtue of 
regal prerogative. But whether their ultimate decisions require 
unanimity, or only a majority of voices, I am uncertain; but prob- 
ably where there is a majority, the minority voluntarily accede. 

The most active part the mico takes, is in the civil government 
of the town or tribe: here he has the power and prerogative of 
calling a council, to deliberate on peace and war, or all public con- 
cerns, as inquiring into, and deciding on complaints and different 

* Clucco, signifies great or excellent. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 363 

■^ees, but he has not the least shadow of exclusive executive power. 
He is complimented with the first visits of strangers, giving audi- 
ence to ambassadors, with presents; and he has also the disposal of 
the public granary. 

The next man in order of dignity and power, is the great war-chief: 
he represents and exercises the dignity of the mico in his absence, 
in conucil; his voice is of the greatest weight in military affairs; 
his power and authority is entirely independent of the mico, 
though, when a mico goes on an expedition, he heads the army, 
and is there the war-chief. There are many of these wai'-chiefs 
in a town or tribe, who are captains or leaders of military parties; 
they are elderly men, who, in their youthful days, have distin- 
guished themselves in war, by valour, subtlety, and intrepidity; 
and these veteran chiefs, in a great degree, constitute their truly 
dignified and venerable senates. 

There is in every town or tribe, a high priest, Usually called by 
the white people, jugglers, or conjurers, besides several juniors, or 
graduates. But the ancient high-priest or seer, presides in spirit- 
ual affairs, and is a person of consequence; he maintains and exer- 
cises great influence in the state, particularly in military affairs; 
the senate never determine on an expedition against their enemy, 
without his counsel and assistance. These people generally bev* 
lieve that their seer has communion with powerful invisible spir- 
its, who they suppose have a share in the rule and government 
of human affairs, as well as the elements; that he can predict the 
result of an expedition: and his influence is so great, that they 
have been known frequently to stop, and turn back an army, when 
within a few days journey of their enemy, after a march of sev- 
eral hundred miles; and indeed their predictions have surprised 
many people. They foretell rain or drought, and pretend to bring 
rain at pleasure, cure diseases, and exercise witchcraft, invoke or 
expel evil spirits, and even assume the power of directing thun- 
der and lightning. 

These Indians are by no means idolators, unless their puffing 
the tobacco smoke towards the sun, and rejoicing at the appearance 
of the new moon,* may be termed so. So far from idolatry are 
they, that they have no images amongst them, nor any religious 
rite or ceremony, that I could perceive; but adore the Great Spirit, 
the giver and taker away of the breath of life, with the most pro- 
found and respectful homage. They believe in a future state, 
■where the spirit exists, which they call the world of spirits, 
where they enjoy different degrees of tranquility or comfort, 
agreeably to their life spent here; a person who in his life has been 
an industrious hunter, provided well for his family, an intrepid 

r * I have observed the young fellows very merry and jocose, at the appearance 
of the new moon, saying how ashamed she looks under the veil: since sleeping 
with the sun these two or three nights, she is ashamed to shew her face, &cc. 



3G4 THE FLOWERS OP 

and active warrior, just, upright, and done all the good he co 
will, they say, in the world of spirits, live in a warm pleasant* 
country, where are expansive, green, flowery savannahs and high 
forests, watered with rivers of pure waters, replenished with 
deer, and every species of game; a serene, unclouded, and peace- 
ful sky; in short, where there is fulness of pleasure, uninter j 
rupted. 

They have many accounts of trances and visions of their people, 
who have been supposed to be dead, but afterwards reviving, have 
related their visions, which tend to enforce thepraclice of virtue 
and the moral duties. 

Before I went amongst the Indians, I had often heard it report- 
ed, that these people, when their parents, through extreme old 
age, become decrepit, and helpless, in compassion for their mise- 
ries, send them to the other world, by a stroke of the tomahawk 
or bullet. Such a degree of depravity and species of impiety, 
always appeared to me so incredible, inhuman, and horrid, that it 
was with the utmost difficulty I assumed resolution sufficient to 
inquire into it. 

The traders assured me, that they knew no instance of such bar- 
barism; but that there had been instances of the communities per- 
forming such a deed at the earnest request of the victim. 

When I was at Mucclaffe town, early one morning, at the invi- 
tation of the chief trader, Ave repaired to the public square, taking 
with us some presents for the Indian chiefs. On our arrival, we 
took our seats in a circle of venerable men, round a fire in the cen- 
tre of the area: other citizens were continually coming in, and 
amongst them I was struck with awe and veneration, at the ap- 
pearance of a very aged man; his hair, what little he had, was as 
white as snow; he was conducted by three young men, one having 
hold of each arm, and the third behind to steady him. On his 
approach, the whole circle saluted him, '''Welcome;" and made 
way for him: he looked as smiling and cheerful as youth, yet 
stone-blind by extreme old age: he was the most ancient chief of 
the town, and they all seemed to reverence him. Soon after the 
old man had seated himself, I distributed my presents, giving 
him a very fine handkerchief and a twist of choice tobacco, which 
passed through the hands of an elderly chief who sat next him, 
telling him it Was a present from one of their white brothers, lately 
arrived in the nation from Charleston: he received the present 
with a smile, and thanked me, returning the favour immediately 
with his own stone pipe and cat-skin of tobacco: and then compli- 
mented me with a long oration, the purport of which was, the 
value he set on the friendship of the Carolinians. He said, that 
when he was a young man, they had no iron hatchets, pots, hoes, 
knives, razors, nor guns, that they then made use of their own 
stone axes, clay pots, flint knives, bows and arrows; and that he 
was the first man who brought the white people's goods into his 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 365 

town, which he did on his back from Charleston, five hundred 
miles on foot, for they had no horses then amongst them. 

The trader then related to me an anecdote concerning this an- 
cient patriarch, which occurred not long before. 

One morning, after his attendants had led him to the council 
fire, before seating himself, he addressed himself to the people 
after this manner: — 

"You yet love me; what can I do now to merit your regard? 
nothing; I am good for nothing; I cannot see to shoot the buck 
or hunt up the sturdy bear; I know I am but a burthen to you; 
I have lived long enough; now let my spirit go; I want to see the 
warriors of my youth in the country of spirits, (baring his breast:) 
here is the hatchet, take it and strike." They answered with 
9ne united voice, "We will not; we cannot; we want you here." 

BarTRAIV'. 



SECTION CXXIT. 

Description of the Indians, Aborigines of Guiana, in South 
America; from a narrative of an Expedition to Surinam, 

THESE Indians, who appear the happiest creatures under the 
sun, are divided into many casts or tribes, and are in general, of a 
copper colour;, while the negroes of Africa, that live under the 
same degree of latitude, are perfectly black. This, however, in- 
conceivable it may appear, is easily accounted for, when one con- 
siders, first, that the American Indians in Guiana, are constantly 
refreshed by the cooling sea breeze, or easterly wind, that blows, 
between the tropics; and that those who dwell in Terra-Firma and 
Peru, on the west coast, enjoy the same easterly breeze, still kept 
cool by the great chain of inland mountains over which it passes, 
and which have their summits perpetually covered with snow; 
while the inhabitants of Africa, south of the river Senegal, get 
the same east wind rather heated than cooled, by the prodigious 
quantity of inland, hot, sandy deserts, over which it passes. 

These are the most probable reasons why the Americans are of 
a copper colour or red, and the inhabitants of Africa, called ne- 
groes, are black, viz. the one being more burnt by the sun than 
the other, and not because they are two distinct races of people: 
since no person whp examines and reflects, can avoid seeing that 
there is but one race of people on the earth, who differ from each 
other, only according to the soil and climate in which they live, 
I am further of opinion, that these Aborigines, or Indian natives, 
will appear to have still less title to be called a distinct people from 
those of the old continent, when we consider the proximity of 
Russia to North America, whence apparently they have emigrated, 
and hitherto but thinly peopled the New World; the Mexicans 



3G0 THE FJLOWEKS OK 

and a few others excepted, till they were butchered by Spanish 
avarice and superstition. A happy people I call them still, whose 
peace and general morals have not been contaminated with Euro- 
pean vices, and whose errors are only the errors of ignorance, and 
not a rooted depravity of a pretended civilization, and a spurious 
and mock Christianity — 

"Lo! ths poor Indian, whose untutor'd mind 
"Sees God in clouds, or hears him in the wind; 
"His soul proud science never taught to stray 
"Far as the solar walk, or milky way; 
"Yet simple nature to his hope has given, 
"Behind the cloud-topt hill, an humbler heaven; 
"'Some safer world in depth of woods embrae'd 
"Some happier island in the wat'ry waste; 
"Where slaves once more their native land behold, 
"No fiends torment, no Christian thirsts for gold. 
"To be, contents his natural desire, 
"He asks no angel's wings, no seraph's fire; 
"But thinks, admitted to that equal sky, 
♦'His faithful dog shall bear him company. 
"Go, wiser thou! and, in thy scale of sense, 
"Weigh thy opinion against Providence." 

For my part, I must say with Socrates, that this kind of pov- 
erty, is alone the truest kind of riches; as those who want.least,. 
approach nearest to the gods, who want nothing. 

All the Guiana Indians, believe in God as the supreme author 
of every good, and never inclined to do them an injury; but they 
worship the devil, whom they call Yawahoo, to prevent his 
afflicting them with evil, and to whom they ascribe pain, disease, 
wounds, and death; and where an Indian dies, in order to avert 
future fatality, the whole family, soon after, leave the spot as a 
place of residence. 

The Guiana Indians, are a perfectly free people, that is, they 
have no division of land, and are without any government, ex- 
cepting that in most families, the eldest acts as captain, priest, 
and physician, to whom they pay a reverential obedience: these 
men are called Peii or Pagayers, and as in some civilized nations, 
live better than all others. 

Polygamy is admitted among them, and every Indian is allowed 
to take as many wives as he can provide for, though he generally 
takes but one, of whom he is extremely jealous, and whom he 
knocks on the head, the moment he receives a decided proof of her 
incontinency. These Indians never beat their children on any 
account whatever, nor give them any education, except in hunting, 
fishing, running and swimming; yet they never use abusive language 
to each other, nor steal; and a lie is totally unknown among them. 
To which I may add, that no people can be more grateful when 
treated with civility; of which I shall in future, relate a remark- 
able instance; but I must not forget that, on the other hand, they 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 36" 

are extremely revengeful, especially when, as they suppose, they 
are injured without provocation. 

The only vices with which to my knowledge they are ac- 
quainted, if such amongst them they may be called, are excessive 
drinking when opportunity offers, and an unaccountable indolence: 
an Indian's only occupation, when he is not hunting or fishing, being 
to lounge in his hammock, picking his teeth, plucking the hairs 
from his beard, examining his face in a bit of broken looking- 
glass, &c. 

The Indians in general, arc a very cleanly people, bathing twice 
or three times every day in the river, or the sea. They have all 
thick hair, which never turns grey, and the head never becomes 
bald; both sexes pluck out every vestige of hair on their bodies, 
that on the head only excepted; it is of a shining black, which the 
men wear short, but the women very long, hanging over the back 
and shoulders to their middle, as if they had studied the scrip- 
tures, where it is said, that long hair is an ornament to a woman, 
but a disgrace to a man. 

The Guiana Indians, are neither tall, strong, nor muscular: but 
they are straight, active, and generally in a good state of health. 
Their faces have no expression whatever, that of a placid good- 
nature and content excepted; and their features are beautifully 
regular, with small black eyes, thin lips, and very white teeth. 
However, all the Guiana Indians disfigure themselves more or less, 
by the use of arnotta or rocow, by them called cosoivee, and by 
the Dutch, orlean. The seeds of the arnotta, being macerated in 
the juice of lemon, and mixed with water, and gum that exudes 
from the mawna tree, or with the oil of castor, composes a scarlet 
paint, with which all the Indians anoint their bodies, and even the 
men their hair, which gives their skin the appearance of a boiled 
lobster; they also rub their naked bodies with caraba or crab-oiL 
This, it must be allowed, is extremely useful in scorching climates., 
where the inhabitants of both sexes go almost naked. One day, 
laughing at a young man who came from the neighbourhood of 
Cayenne, he answered me in French, saying, "My skin, sir, is 
kept soft: too great perspiration is prevented, and the musquitoes 
do not sting me as they do you: besides its beauty, this is the use 
of my painting red. Now what is the reason of your painting 
white?" meaning the powder in the hair: "you are, without any 
reason, wasting your flour, dirtying your coat, and making your- 
self look grey before your time." 

These Indians also make use of a deep purple blue, which they 
call tapowrijia; but this is purely for ornament, and is absolutely 
indelible for about nine days. It is the juice of a fruit, in size 
like a small apple that grows on the lawna tree, and which is 
bruised and macerated in water. With this, these people make 
figures on their faces, and all over their bodies, resembling hiero- 
glyphics, like those that were a few years since, called a la Grequc 



36S THE FLOWERS OF 

in Europe, and are still cut in coal grates, fenders, &c. So very 
permanently does this paint adhere to the skin, that one of our 
officers, who could not believe the fact, having, by way of frolic, 
made a pair of enormous whiskers with it on his face, was obliged 
to our great amusement, to stay at Paramaribo with them for above 
a week, and wait until they gradually disappeared. 

The only dress worn by these Indians, consists of a slip of black 01 
blue cotton, worn by the men to cover their nakedness, and called 
camisa; something like that of the negroes. Being wound round 
their loins, it passes through between their thighs, and the ends of it, 
which are very long, they either throw over their shoulders, or 
negligently let them trail on the ground. For the same purpose, 
the women wear an apron of cotton, with party-coloured glass 
beads strung upon it, which they call quelou. This covering is 
of no great size, being only about one foot in breadth by eight 
inches in length, ornamented with fringes, and fastened round the 
waist with cotton strings; but being heavy, though of no larger 
dimensions, it answers ail the purposes for which it was intended. 

In pronunciation, the language of the Indians in general, much 
resembles the Italian, their words beingsonorous and harmonious, 
mostly terminating with a vowel, as may be observed by the few 
specimens above. They have no calculation of time, a string 
with some knots, being the only calendar they are acquainted 
with. Their musical instruments consist of a kind of flute, call- 
ed tootoo, and made of a single "piece of thick reed, on which 
they make a sound no better than the lowing of an ox, without 
either measure or variety. Another instrument is also used by 
them to blow upon, called quurta, (hy Ovid, a syrinx; by some 
poets Pan's chaunier,) and consists of reeds of different lengths, 
that are joined together like the pipes of an organ, but even at 
the top, which they hold with both hands to the lips, and which, 
by shifting from side to side, produces a warbling of clear but dis- 
cordant sounds, agreeable to none but themselves; nor have I seen 
a better representation of the god Pan, playing on his chaunter, 
than a naked Indian among the verdant foliage playing upon one 
of those reedy pipes. They also make flutes of the bones of their 
enemies, of which I have one now in my possession. Their danc- 
ing, if such it may be called, consists in stamping on the ground, 
balancing on one foot, and staggering round in different attitudes 
for man}' hours, as if intoxicated. 

The Indians are a very sociable people among themselves, and 
frequently meet together in a large wigwam or carbet, that is in 
every hamlet for the purpose, where, if they do not play or dance, 
they amuse each other with fictitious stories, generally concerning 
ghosts, witches, or dreams, during which they frequently burst 
into immoderate fits of laughter. They greatly delight in bath- 
ing, which they do twice at least every day, men, women, boys, 
and girh, promiscuously together. They are all excellent swim- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 369 

mers, without exception. Among these parties, not the smallest 
indecency is committed, in either words or actions. 

The Indian girls are married when they are twelve years old. 
The ceremony consists simply in the young man's offering a quan- 
tity of game and fish of his own catching, which if she accepts, 
he next proposes the question, "Will you be my wife?" If she 
answers in the affirmative, the matter is settled, and the nuptials 
celebrated in a drunken feast, when a house and furniture is pro- 
vided for the young couple. Their women are delivered without 
any assistance, and with so little inconvenience or suffering, that 
they seem exempt from the curse of Eve. Most of these people 
esteeming a fiat forehead a mark of beauty, they compress the 
heads of their children, it is said, immediately after their births^ 
like the Chactaws of North America. 

No Indian wife eats with her husband, but serves him as a slave: 
for this reason, they can take but very little care of their infants, 
which, nevertheless, are always healthy and undeformed. When 
they travel, they carry them in small hammocks, slung over one 
shoulder, in which sits the child, having one leg before and the 
other behind the mother. For an emetic, they use the juice of 
tobacco, which they seldom smoke. 

When the Indians are dying, either from sickness or old age, 
the latter of which is most frequently the cause, the devil or 
yawahoa, is at midnight exorcised by the peii or priest, by means 
of rattling a calabash filled with small stones, peas, and beads, 
accompanied by a long speech. This office is hereditary, and by 
these pretended divines, no animal food, as I have before said, is 
publicly tasted, and yet, on the whole, they live better than all 
the others. When an Indian is dead, being first washed and 
anointed, he is buried naked, in a new cotton bag, in a sitting atti- 
tude, his head resting on the palms of his hands, his elbows on 
his knees, and all his implements of war and hunting by his side; 
during which time, his relations and neighbours, rend the air by 
their dismal lamentations; but soon after, by a general drunken 
riot, they drown their sorrow till the following year. This 
practice, by the way, bears some affinity to Dr. Smollett's des- 
cription of a burial in the highlands of Scotland. At the expi- 
ration of the year, the body being rotten, is dug up, and the bones 
distributed to all the friends and acquaintances; during which cere- 
mony, the former rites are repeated for the last time, and the 
whole neighbourhood look out for another settlement. Some 
tribes of Indians, having put their deceased friends in the above 
posture, place them naked for a few days under water, where the 
bones being picked clean by the piree, and other fish, the skeleton 
is dried in the sun, and hung up to the ceiling of their houses or 
wigwams; and this is done as the strongest instance of their great 
regard for their departed friend. 
47 



370 THE FLOWERS OF 

Notwithstanding the Guiana Indians, are upon the whole, a 
peaceable people, they sometimes go to war among themselves, 
purely for the sake of capturing prisoners, to which they are too 
much encouraged by the christians, who receive them in exchange 
for other commodities, and make them slaves, which is too fre- 
quently practised. But these kind of slaves, are only for shew 
and parade, as they absolutely refuse to work, and if at all ill- 
treated, or especially if beaten, they pine, and languish like caged 
turtles, even refusing food, till by affliction and want, they are 
exhausted, and finally expire. 

The Indians always fight their battles by midnight: indeed 
their contests resemble more a siege than battle, as these broils 
consist only in surrounding the hamlets of their enemies while 
they are asleep, making prisoners of the women, boys, and girls, 
while they shoot the men with poisoned arrows, or with their 
clubs or apootoos, divide their skulls when the}' come to close 
quarters; they also scalp their male prisoners, bring home their 
hair, and even their bones, as trophies of war, and presents to their 
wives, unless they intend to sell them to the Europeans at Para- 
maribo. In their open rencounters, which happen very seldom, 
the bows and barbed arrows, are their principal weapons of of- 
fence; with those they often kill at the distance of sixty paces; 
hay, the swiftest bird in its flight, provided it has the magnitude 
of a crow, seldom escapes them. In truth, such is the skill of 
these people at these manly exercises, that the best archers at 
Cressy, Poitiers 3 and Agincourt, must have yielded to their supe- 
riority, 

"Now with full force the yielding how he bends, 

'•'Drawn to an arch, and joins the doubling ends; 

"Close to his breast he strains the nerve below, 

'"Till the barb'd point approach the circling bow, 

"Th' impatient weapon whizzes on the wing; 

<'Sounds the tough bow, and twangs the quivering string." 

Pope's Hojiep. 

I shall only add further on this subject, that when these Indi- 
ans go to war, they choose one general commander, whom they 
distinguish by the title of UilL 

Cavtain Stedman. 



SECTION CXXIII. 

Wonderful effect from the biting of a Bat. 

I CANNOT here forbear mentioning a singular circumstance 
respecting myself, viz. that, on waking about four o'clock this 
morning in my hammock, I was extremely alarmed at finding 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 371 

myself weltering in congealed blood, and without feeling any 
pain whatever. Having started up, and run for the surgeon, with 
a fire-brand in one hand, and all over besmeared with gore; to 
which, if added my p^ie face, short hair, and tattered apparel, he 
might well ask the question, 

'Ee thou a spirit of health or goblin tlamn'd, 
"Bringst with thee airs of heav'n or blasts from hell?" 

Shakspeare, 

The mystery however was, that I had been bitten by the vam- 
pire or spectre of Guiana, which is also called the flying-dog of 
New Spain, and by the Spaniards, perrovolador; this is no other 
than a bat of an enormous size, that sucks the blood from men 
and cattle when they are fast asleep, even sometimes till they 
die; and as the manner in which they proceed is truly wonderful, 
I <hall endeavour to give a distinct account of it. — Knowing by 
instinct that the person they intend to attack, is in a sound slum> 
ber, they generally alight near the feet, where while the creature 
continues fanning with his enormous wings, which keeps one 
cool, he bites a piece out of the tip of the great toe, so very small 
indeed, that the head of a pin could scarcely be received into the 
wound, which is consequently not painful; yet through this ori- 
fice he continues to suck the blood, until he is obliged to disgorge. 
He then begins again, and thus continues sucking and disgorging 
till he is scarcely able to fly; and the sufferer has often been -known, 
to sleep from time into eternity. Cattle they generally bite in 
the ear, but always in such places where the blood flows spontane- 
ously, perhaps in an artery — but this is entering rather on the 
province of the medical faculty. Having applied tobacco ashes 
as the best remedy, and washed the gore from myself, and from 
my hammock, I observed several small heaps of congealed blood 
all round the place where I had lain, and upon the ground: upon 
examining which, the surgeon judged that I had lost at least 
twelve or fourteen ounces during the night. 

Stedman, 



SECTION CXXIV. 

Of Mermaids. 

MAJOR Abercromby, of the society's service, assured me, that 
a mermaid was lately seen in the river Surinam. Lord Mon- 
boddo, also positively affirms the existence of sea-women and 
sea-men, while he asserts that they were seen so late as 1720. But 
however respectable his lordship's judgment and authority may 



372 THE FL0WEHS OF 

be on other subjects, I can no more agree with him, as to men 
and women having fins and scales, than to their having tails. 

The plain fact, in my humble opinion, is this, that in many 
rivers between the tropics, both on the coasts of Africa and South 
America, a fish sometimes appears half above the water, that bears 
a distant resemblance of the human species; but is smaller, nearly 
such as in 1794 was exhibited in London. The colour is of a 
blackish green; the head is round, with a deformed kind of a face; 
a strong fin runs from near the eyes to the middle of the back, 
which sometimes resembles flowing hair: and the two supposed 
arms and hands, are two fleshy fins, or rather digitated swimmers; 
the female has breasts assuredly like a woman's, being a vivipa- 
rous animal; while the tail is exactly that of a fish; in most of 
which properties, it agrees with the seal, but this last has no fin 
along the back, and is considerable larger, while it never appears 
erect above the water, like the former. The above information 
I had from several old negroes and Indians, who all agreed per- 
fectly in the description; some added that they sang; which I 
apprehend to be no other than a grunting noise which" they emit 
like most other tropical fish and amphibious animals. 

They concluded by assuring me, that though they were scarce, 
nothing was more dreaded by their wives and children, than the 
watra-mama, which signifies the mother of the waters; and by 
which name, strange to tell, they distinguish their Sybils. 

Stedman. 



SECTION CXXV. 

Description of Aleppo, the Capital of Syria. 

A DISTANT view of Aleppo, fills the mind with expectations 
of great splendour and magnificence. The mosques, the towers, 
the large range of houses with flat roofs, rising above-each other, 
according to the sloping hills on which they stand, the whole 
variegated with beautiful rows of trees, form all together a scene 
magnificent, gay, and delightful; but, on entering the town, all 
those expected beauties vanish, and leave nothing in the streets 
to meet the eye, but a dismal succession of high stone walls, 
gloomy as the recesses of a convent or state prison, and unen- 
livened by windows embellished, as with us, by "the human 
face divine." The streets themselves, not wider than some of 
the meanest alleys in London, overcast by the height of the 
prison-houses on either side, are rendered still more formidably 
gloomy by the solitude and silence that pervade Ihem; while here 
and there, a lattice towards the top, barely visible, strikes the soul 
with the gloomy idea of thraldom, coercion, and imprisonment. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 373 

This detestable mode of, building, which owes its origin to 
jealousy and the scandalous restraints every man is empowered by 
the laws and religion of the place, to impose upon the women 
consigned either by sale or birth to his tyranny, extends not to the 
inside of the houses, many of which are magnificent and hand- 
some, and all admirably suited to the exigencies of the climate, 
and the domestic customs and manner of living of the inhabitants. 

The city is adorned, it is true, here and there, with mosques 
and appendant towers, called minarets, from which criers call 
the faithful to prayers; and in some of the streets, there are arches 
built at certain distances from each other, so as to carry the eye 
directly through them, and form a vista of considerable grandeur: 
but all these are far from sufficient to counterbalance the general 
aspect of gloominess and solitude which reigns over the whole, 
and renders it so peculiarly disgusting, particularly at first sight, to 
an Englishman who has enjoyed the gaiety and contemplated the 
freedom of a city in Great Britain. 

The mosques (Mahomedan temples,) are extremely numerous 
in this city; indeed almost as much so as churches and convents in 
the popish countries of Christendom. There is nothing in their 
external appearance to attract the notice of the traveller, or indulge 
the eye of the architect; they are almost all of one form — an oblong 
quadrangle: and as to the inside, I never had an opportunity of 
seeing one: none but Mussulmen being permitted to enter them, 
at least at Aleppo. 

The next buildings of a public kind to the mosques, that de- 
serve to be particularly mentioned, are the caravanseras — build- 
ings which, whether we consider the spirit of beneficence and 
charity that first suggested them, their national importance, or 
their extensive utility, may rank, though not in splendour of ap- 
pearance, at least in. true value, with any to be found in the world. 

Caravanseras were originally intended for, and are now pretty 
generally applied to, the accommodation of strangers and travel- 
lers, though, like every other good institution, sometimes pervert- 
ed to the purposes of private emolument or public job: they are 
built at proper distances through the roads of the Turkish domin- 
ions, and afford the weary or indigent traveller, an asylum from 
the inclemency of the weather; are in general very large, and 
built of the most solid and durable materials: have commonly one 
story above the ground floor, the lower of which is arched, and 
serves for warehouses to stow goods, for lodgings, and for stables, 
while the upper is used merely for lodgings; besides which, they 
are always accommodated with a fountain, and have cooks'-shops 
and other conveniences, to supply the wants of the lodgers. In 
Aleppo, the caravanseras are almost exclusively occupied by mer- 
chants, to whom they are, like other houses, rented. 

The suburbs of Aleppo, and the surrounding country, are very 
handsome, pleasant, and, to a person coming out of a gloomy city, 



374 THE FLOWERS OP 

in some respects interesting. Some tossed about into hill and 
valley, lie under the hands of the husbandman; others are covered 
Avith handsome villas; and others again laid out in gardens, wh ither 
the people of Aleppo, occasionally resort for amusement. 

The roofs of all the houses are flat, and formed of a composition 
which resists the weather effectually. On those most of the peo- 
ple sleep in the very hot weather: they are separated from each 
other by walls; but the Franks, who live contiguous to one an- 
other, and who, from their disagreeable circumstances with regard 
to the Turks, are under the necessity of keeping up a friendly 
and harmonious intercourse together, have doors of communica- 
tion, which are attended with these fortunate and pleasing advan- 
tages, that they can make a large circuit without descending into 
the streets, and can visit each other during the plague, without 
running the risk of catching the infection by going among the 
natives below. 

There is a castle in the city, which I had nearly forgotten to 
mention — the natives conceive it to be a place of great strength. 
It could not, however, withstand the shock of a few pieces of 
ordnance for a day. It is esteemed a favour to be permitted to 
see it; and there is nothing to recompence one for the trouble of 
obtaining permission, unless it be the prospect of the surrounding 
country, which from the battlements is extensive and beautiful. 

Near this castle, stands the seraglio, a large old building, where 
the bashaw of Aleppo resides: the whole of it seemed to be kept 
in very bad repair, considering the importance of the place. It 
is surrounded by a strong wall of great height: besides which, its 
contiguity to the castle is very convenient; as, in case of popular 
tumults, or intestine commotions, the bashaw finds an asylum in 
the latter, which commands and overawes the city, and is never 
without a numerous garrison under the command of an aga. 

Such is the summary account I have been able to collect of 
Aleppo, the capital of Syria; which, mean though it is, compared 
with the capitals of European countries, is certainly the third city 
for splendour, magnificence, and importance, in the vast extent 
of the Ottoman empire — Constantinople and Grand Cairo, only 
excelling it in those points, and no other bearing any sort of com- 
petition with it. Campbell. 



SECTION CXXVI. 

Of the Turkish Government. 

THE constitution of the country is laid down expressly in the 
Koran. The emperor of Turkey, (commonly called the grand 
seignior,) is a descendant of Mahomet, who pretended he had the 
Koran from heaven, and he is as much bound by the institutes of 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS- 375 

that book,, as any subject in his realm — is as liable to deposition 
as they to punishment for breach of them, and indeed has been 
more than once deposed, and the next in succession raised to the 
throne. Thus far it is obvious, his power is limited and under 
control. But that is not all; it is equally certain, that the Turkish 
government is partly republican; for though the people at large, 
have no share in the legislation, and are excluded by the Koran 
from it, (which Koran has established and precisely ascertained 
their rights, privileges, and personal security,) yet there is an in- 
termediate power, which, when roused to exertion, is stronger 
than the emperor's, and stands as a bulwark between the extremes 
of despotism and them. This body is the Ulama, composed of 
all the members of the church and the law, superior to any nobil- 
ity, jealous of their rights and privileges, and partly taken from 
the people, not by election, but by profession and talents. In this 
body are comprised the moulahs, the hereditary and perpetual 
guardians of the religion and laws of the empire: they derive their 
authority as much as the emperor from the Koran, and, when 
necessary, act with all the firmness resulting from a conviction of 
that authority; which they often demonstrate by opposing his 
measures, not only with impunity, but success. Their persons are 
sacred; and they can, by means of the unbounded respect in which 
they are held, rouse the people to arms, and proceed to depose. . 
But, what is much more, the emperor cannot be deposed without 
their concurrence. 

If, by this provision of the constitution, the power of the mo- 
narch is limited, and the personal security of the subject ascertain- 
ed, on the one hand; the eneigy of the empire in its external ope- 
rations, is on the other, very frequently and fatally palsied by it. 
Declarations of war have been procrastinated, till an injurious and 
irrecoverable act of hostility has been sustained: and peace often 
protracted, when peace would have been advantageous. The Ula- 
ma being a numerous body, it has been found always difficult, often 
impossible, to unite so many different opinions; and as nothing 
must be done without their conference, the executive power finds 
it often impossible to take a decisive step in a crisis of advantage- 
ous opportunity. - But as this code of laws and government is re- 
ceived as a divine revelation, binding both prince and people, and 
supposed to be sealed in heaven, the breach of it would be suffici- 
ent to consign even the monarch to deposition and death. 

One striking feature in the constitution of Turkey is, that neither 
blood nor splendid birth are of themselves sufficient to recommend 
a man to great offices. Merit and abilities alone are the pinions 
which can lift ambition to its height. The cottager may be exalted 
to the highest office in the empire; at least, there is no absolute 
impediment in his way; and I believe it has often happened. 
Compare this with France under its late monarchy, where no me- 
rit could raise a man from the canaille. This, I 



37G THE FLOWEIIS OF 

the criterions of a free constitution, and Turkey is so far demo- 
cratic. 

Perhaps there is no part of the world where the flame of paren- 
tal affection burns with more ardent and unextinguishable strength, 
or is more faithfully returned by reciprocal tenderness and filial 
obedience, than Turkey. Educated in the most unaffected defe- 
rence and pious submission to their parents' will; trained both by 
precept and example to the greatest veneration for the aged; and 
Separated almost from their infancy from the women, they acquire 
modesty to their superiors, and a bashfulness and respectful de- 
portment to the weaker sex, which never cease to influence them 
through life. A Turk meeting a woman in the street, turns his face 
from her, as if looking at her were criminal; and there is nothing 
they detest so much, or will more sedulously shun, than an impu- 
dent audacious woman. To get the better of a Turk, therefore, 
there is nothing fur 1 her necessary, than to let slip a virago at him, 
and he instantly retreats. 

A mong the variety of errors and moral absurdities falsely ascrib- 
ed to the Mahometan religion, the exclusion of women from Par- 
adise holds a very conspicuous place, as a charge equally false and 
absurd; on the contrary, the women have their fasts, their ablu- 
tions, and the other religious rites deemed by jthe Mahometans 
necessary to salvation. Notwithstanding it has been the practice 
of travellers to hare recourse to invention, where the ^customs of 
the country precluded positive information; and to give their ac- 
counts rather from the suggestions of their own prejudiced imagi- 
nations, than from any fair inferences or conclusions drawn frim 
the facts that came under their observation. 

Campbell. 

SECTION CXXVII. 

«jJ curious circumstance that occurred during Mr. Campbell 's 

stay at Jlleppo. 

ONE day, a friend, (a French gentleman,) who escorted me 
through the town, called to draw me out with him for a walk; he 
said he wished to shew me some of the caravanseras, observing, 
that he thought I would be entertained with a view of them. I 
agreed to go; and he brought me to two, which, after he had shewn 
to me and explained their principle, police and etiquette, I could 
not help admiring and approving. To both these were attached 
eating-houses and coffee-houses, and every appendage that could 
render them convenient and comfortable. As we were about leav- 
ing the last, I observed my friend stop and listen attentively. — 
"Come hither," said he, after a minute's pause; "come into this 
coffee-house: here is something going forward that may amuse 
you." 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 377 

We accordingly entered the coffee-house, where we saw a num- 
ber of people, some seated in the Turkish fashion, some on low 
stools, and some standing; and in the middle, a man walking to 
and fro, speaking in an audible voice, sometimes slowly, some- 
times with rapidity, varying his tones occasionally with all the 
inflexions, of a corresponding sense. I could not understand him, 
but he seemed to me to speak with "good emphas ; s and a good 
discretion:" his action was easy to him, though expressive and 
ernphatical; and his countenance exhibited strong marks of elo- 
quent expression. I could not help staring with astonishment at 
a scene so new to me, and felt great approbation at the tones and 
manner of this extraordinary orator, though I could not under- 
stand a single word he said. He was listened to by all with 
great attention, and the Turks (albeit not used to the laughing 
mood,) frequently betrayed strong symptoms of resibility; but 
in the height and torrent of his speech, he broke suddenly off, 
scampered out of the door, and disappeared. I set it down that 
he was a maniac or lunatic of an ingenious kind, and was for going 
away. "Stay," says my friend, "rest where you are for a few 
minutes; let us hear farther." 

The orator had scarcely been gone three minutes, when the 
room was filled with the buzz of conversation, a word of which 
I could not understand, but which my guide listened to very 
attentively. At length the buzz began to grow loud, and soon in- 
creased into clamour; when a scene ensued of so very ludicrous a 
kind, as forced me to cram my handkerchief into my mouth to 
suppress a laugh, or at least so to stifle it as to avoid observation. 
In short, they were disputing violently, and the beards were, as I 
once before mentioned to you, all wagging. I became more 
convulsed with mirth; and my friend, seeing that I was likely to 
give offence, took me under the arm, and hurried me out of the 
coffee-house; we retired into a porch in the caravansera, where I 
gave vent to my suppressed laughter till my sides were sore, and 
my eyes ran tears. 

"In the name of God, my friend," said I, "tell me what is the 
meaning of all that extravagant scene, to which we have just 
now been witness: who is that madman that spoke so much? and 
why did they all quarrel after he went away?" 

"Come, come," said he, "let us retire to my house, and I will 
there explain the whole of it to you, from beginning to ending." 

I accordingly accompanied him home, where we found a very 
gay circle assembled, to whom he described my astonishment; re- 
counting my immoderate laughter, till they all laughed very 
nearly as immoderately as myself. "You must know/' said he, 
addressing himself to me, "that he, whom you took to be a mad- 
man, is one of the most celebrated composers and tellers of stories 
in Asia, and only wants the aid of printing, to be perhaps as emi- 
nent in reputation for making Centes, as Marmontel or Madame 
48 



37ft THE FLOWERS OF 

D'Anois. As we passed along, I heard his voice, and, knowing 
it, resolved to let you see him, and brought you in for the purpose. 
He was entertaining the company with a very curious, interesting, 
and comical story, the subject of which was avarice; the hero a 
miser of the name of Cassem. His misery and avarice, are repre- 
sented in it as bringing him into a variety of scrapes, which waste 
his wealth; and his character is drawn with such strength of col- 
ouring, and marked with such grotesque lines of humour — he 
related it, moreover, with so much wit,, in such admirable lan- 
guage, and embellished and enforced it with such appropriate ac- 
tion, utterance, and emphasis — that it riveted, as you saw, the 
attention of all his auditors, and extorted laughter even from Turk- 
ish gravity." 

"But how came he to break off so suddenly?" said I. 
"That," returned my friend, "is a part of the art of his pro- 
fession, \vithout which he could not live: just as he gets to a most 
interesting part of the story, when he has wound the imagination 
of his auditors up to the highest climax of expectation, he pur- 
posely breaks off to make them eager for the rest. He is sure to 
have them all next day, with additional numbers, who come on 
their report, and he makes his terms to finish the story." 

"Why then," interrupted I, "why did they who remained be- 
hind fall disputing?" 

"That I will explain to } 7 ou," said he. "lust as he broke off, 
Cassem the miser, (who, as far as I heard, seems as well drawn 
as Moliere's t/ivare,) having already suffered a thousand whimsi- 
cal misfortunes and dilapidations of fortune, is brought before the 
Cadi for digging in his garden, on the presumption that he was 
digging for treasure. As soon as the historian was gone, they first 
applauded him, and then began to discuss his story, which they 
one and all agreed in praising highly: and when they come to 
talk of the probable issue of the sequel of it, thei*e were almost as 
many opinions as there were men in company; each maintained his 
own, and they went to loggerheads, as you saw, about it — when 
the chance is a thousand to one, that not one of them was near the 
mark. One, in particular, surmised that Cassem would be married 
to the Cadi's daughter, which gave great offence to some, and 
roused another of the company to declare, that he was well assur- 
ed in his conscience, that Cassem would be brought to the basti- 
nado or the stake, or else hanged, in the sequel!" 

"And is it possible," said I, "that a group of twenty or thirty 
rational beings, can be so far bereft of all common sense, as to 
dispute upon the result of a contingency, which absolutely de- 
pends on the arbitrary fancy of an acknowledged fabricator of 
falsehoods?" 

C'est vrai, Monsieur; and thereby they demonstrate the power 
of the poet, (for poet we may well call him;) and enlre nous, I 
doubt whether it is not more rational, as well as more fair, to dis- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 379 

pute what the denouement ought to be before than after the inven- 
tor of Ihe piece has disposed of it, as is the practice with us. 
When he has once finished his fable, you will find them all con- 
tent, and the voice of criticism silent. Now in France or England, 
our critics lie perdue, in order to attack the poet, let him finish 
his performance how he may But you will recollect, Monsieur, 
that in Turkey criticism, is the honest spontaneous issue of the 
heart, and wiih us is a trade,, where sometimes lucre, sometimes 
vanity, but oftener than hoth, envy and malice, direct the decision, 
and dispose to cavil and censure." 

''But we will go again to-morrow," continued he; "probably 
he will be there to conclude or proceed farther with his story." 
I agreed to this, and we parted 

On the next day we went, and not seeing the orator in his place, 
lounged about the caravansera, and going to another coffee-house, 
found him declaiming with all his might. My friend told me, 
that the story he was now on, was quite different from the former; 
however, we watched his motions so effectually, that we got the 
conclusion of the story of Cassem, which complete^ disappointed 
the prognostics of the two conflicting Turkish critics; for Cassem 
was neither bastinadoed, staked, nor hanged, nor married to the 
Cadi's daughter, but lived to see that extreme avarice was folly; 
and to be sensible, that to make the proper use of the goods of this 
life, is to enjoy them. 

Until a caravan was formed, or the Company's despatches arriv- 
ed over-land, I endeavoured to pass my time as cheerfully as possi- 
ble, I visited a puppet-show, in which Kara-ghuse, or Punch, 
by the freedom of speech he is allowed to exercise, frequently 
arraigns the conduct of private individuals, but utters the severest 
sarcasms against the public magistrates who have deviated from 
their line of .duty; no offender, however entrenched behind power, 
or enshrined in rank, could escape him. Bashaws, Cadies, nay, 
the Janissaries themselves, were often subjects of his sport. 

My friend informed me, that he was not more restrained in the 
effusions of obscenity which he uttered than in his satire; that he 
was always well received and applauded, even venerated, (as we 
venerate the liberty of the press,) as a bold teller of truth, who 
with little mischief does ,a great deal of good, and often rouses 
the lethargic public mind to a sense of public dangers and injuries. 
He added, that in some cases the magistrate had been obliged to 
interfere: and the bashaw himself was seriously called upon at 
times, to stop the licentious tongue of this champion of freedom, 
Kara-ghuse. 

"Well, then," said I, "it appears upon the whole, that Mon- 
sieur Kara-ghuse is a very great blackguard, but a very witty 
and a very honest one." 

"You have just hit it," said he; "and if, Master Kara-ghuse 
was to take such liberties in France, Spain, Portugal, or Germany, 



380 THK FLOWERS OF 

all his wit and honesty, would not save him from punishment. 
In England you do not want him; every man is a Kara-ghuse, 
and every newspaper a puppet-show." 

"And yet," returned I, "we complain sadly of the want of 
liberty ¥-' 

"That is natural," returned my sagacious Frenchman, "per- 
fectly natural. Liberty is like money; the more we have of it, 
the more covetous we grow." 

"Very true, Monsieur," said I, pleased with his compliment 
to our happy constitution, and to clinch his observation, gave a 
Latin quotation which, when a child, I got out of Lilly's gram- 
mar, "Crescit amor nummi, quantum ipsa pecunia crescit;'' 
and then, changing nummus for liber t as, "Crescit amor liber- 
tatis, quantum ipsa libertas crescit." 

" 'Tis very well, Monsieur," said he; "and to carry on your 
allusion, may we not say, that they who do not know when the)' 
have enough, areas dangerously wrong in the one case, as those 
who say we have too much, are in the other? The English com- 
plaining of the want of liberty, reminds me of the coffee-house 
orator's story of Cassem, who, wallowing in wealth, lost it all in 
the wild pursuit of more. I hope, however, that they never 
will, like him, lose their stock in vain endeavours to increase it. 

Campbell. 



SECTION CXXVIII. 

Syracuse — Atmospherical heat — Ice a Medicine — Snow pre- 
served by the Ancients — Of the Papyrus — The fountain 
of Arethusa — Catacombs. 

THE most celebrated of the ancient writers, all agree in the 
general description they give of the power and the sovereignty 
of ancient Syracuse. In the time of its prosperity, the city was 
a hundred and eighty stadia in circumference: that is, two-and- 
twenty Italian miles and a half; or upward of five and a half of 
geographical, nearly four common German miles. 

On the 26th of June in the forenoon,* we visited Saverio Lan- 
dolina Nava, a knight of Malta, and a person to whom strangers, 
luckily for themselves, are usually recommended. He possesses 
a knowledge of the present country and of antiquity; is an acute 
reader of Greek, and a pleasant and worthy man. A few traits 
sufficiently proved to me the perspicuity with which he interpret- 
ed many passages in ancient writers, that had formerly been 
thought obscure. 

* A. D. 1792. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 381 

He offered in a friendly manner, to instruct us in the antiqui- 
ties of the city, which, from a person who to accuracy of judg- 
ment adds so much knowledge, was to us highly acceptable. 
During our residence of six days, he, with true hospitality, dedi- 
cated his whole time to us: for which I think myself the more 
indebted to him as this excellent man so well understands the em- 
ployment of his hours. 

He accompanied us to the cathedral; one side of which rests on 
twelve or thirteen ancient Doric pillars, which it is supposed, be- 
longed to the portico of the temple of Minerva, that is mentioned 
by Cicero, in the passage I have cited. At present, only one 
half of them appear; the other half having been walled in when 
this temple was changed into a church. The temple must have 
been about as large as that in Egesta. 

Facing the cathedral, are the statues of the apostles Peter and 
Paul. The following inscription is under that of Peter: 

"Apostolorum pi-incipi, fundatori sou, ecclesia Syracusana."* 

The Syracusans affirm, that their first bishop was sent them by 
Peter. 

There appears to me, to be much dignity in the inscription of 
the statue of St. Paul; who in his journey from Jerusalem to 
Rome, was overtaken by a storm, shipwrecked at Malta, and re- 
mained three days at Syracuse: 

•'Apostolo gentium, hospiti suo, ecclesia Syracusana"f 

There is a tradition, and a probable one, that Archimedes drew 
a meridian line in this temple: but the tale, which is told by the 
ignorant, that the meridian ray of light, which passed through 
the opening of the temple of the Olympian Jupiter, fell in this 
temple, is very absurd. One meridian ray, directed through two 
different buildings!- — buildings that were one of them in the island, 
the other in the city, on the other side of the haven! and, in ad- 
dition, a very elevated, and almost perpendicular meridian ray of 
Sicily! 

We saw a stone in the seminary, that has but lately been found, 
and contains an inscription which appears to denote that there either 
was a temple in Syracuse, dedicated to all the gods, that is, a 
Pantheon, or that there was an altar thus consecrated. % There is 
a library in the seminary, which is always increasing: but it is the 
only one in Syracuse. The seminary likewise contains a co-llec- 

* "The congregation of Syracuse, erected this statue to the chief of tlie 
apostles, their founder." 

•j- "The congregation of Syracuse, erected this statue to the apostle of the 
Gentiles, their guest." 

t Under the reign of king Hiero, the son ef Hierocles, the Syracusans conse- 
crated it to all the gods. 



382 THE FLOWEKS OF 

tion of ancient coins. When we entered this building, the heat 
was not extreme; but when we returned, in three quarters of an 
hour, we felt the wind meeting us as hot as if it came from an oven; 
we being then in the open air and unprotected by shade. Some of us 
were immediately seized with a pain in the breast, which continu- 
ed as long as this wind prevailed; that is, about three hours. Lan- 
dolina advised us, when we came home, to shut up the windows, 
leaving only sufficient light to see to read, and to sprinkle the 
apartments with water. By these means, the air of the house 
became supportable. Reaumur's thermometer, in a narrow but 
very cold court, ascended from 2x°° to 31°. 

In the following summer of 1793, the heat of England rose to 
31°: men were discovered lying dead on the ground. So true it 
is, that the same degree of heat in Italy and Sicily, is by no 
means so dangerous as when it visits a country where the air is 
not equally pure. Cicero praises Syracuse, by saying, that there 
is no day in the whole year so cloudy as for the sun not once to 
appear. 

This hot wind rages with such excess only once in three or four 
3^ears, and seldom then during a whole day. It blows from the 
west, is loaded with the hot vapours of Africa, and is therefore 
similar in its effects, upon this eastern coast, to those of the Siroc- 
co upon the country round Palermo. We durst not leave the 
house all the afternoon; but cooled ourselves with ice, and 
strengthened ourselves with generous Syracusan wine. I did not 
feel myself so entirely overcome with languor as I had before 
been by the Sirocco wind; but the Sirocco did not give me the 
s ime pain in the breast. 

The custom of taking ice in Italy and Sicily, is considered as 
an indispensable refreshment: and as a powerful remedy in many 
diseases. The physicians of these countries do not give many 
medicines; but frequently prescribe a severe regimen, and prevent 
the baneful effects of various diseases by suffering the sick, for 
several days, to take nothing but water cooled with ice, sweet 
oranges, and ice fruits. They ascribed much efficacy, and I be- 
lieve truly, to the external and internal use of water. 

Iced milk, fruits, chocolate, and other viands, are found in most 
of the towns. They do not, as with us, use ice as a cooler, but 
snow; which is not only more easily preserved than ice, but it is 
supposed by them to be more healthy. That snow is more easily 
preserved, appears evident; as, in warm summers, our ice-houses 
are frequently deficient; whereas there is no scarcity of snow in 
the hot summers of the south. It is preserved partly in natural 
cliffs of the rocks, and partly in caverns; which they dig in the 
mountains towards the north. In these the snow is closely packed 
together; and, to give it a durable consistency, mixed with straw, 
sand ; or, in volcanic countries with ashes. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 383 

The municipal magistrates are careful to make a sufficient pro- 
vision of snow; and would be in danger, from the anger of the 
people, if a want of this necessary should be felt. The govern- 
ment of Naples takes upon itself to provide for the city; and 
grants a man the privilege, by contract, of furnishing four hundred 
thousand inhabitants with snow. It is preserved in the cliffs and 
caverns of the mountain San Jlngelo, between Castell-a-Mare and 
Sorcnto. Snow is brought every night to the shore on the backs 
of asses; and porters are then loaded with it, by whom the city is 
provided for the following day. The Neapolitans would murmur 
as loudly, were they without snow for a single day, as our soldiers, 
when in camp, if they could procure neither brandy nor tobacco. 
The contractor is subjected to a fine of two hundred ducats, for 
every day on which the city is not sufficiently supplied with 
snow. 

Landolina has led me to remark the customary use of snow among 
the ancients. Athenaeus, in his third book, cites many passages 
from writers who speak of this custom. An ancient poet, Alexis 
says, "We likewise provide snow for our beverage." Another poet, 
Euthycles, has this passage, "He first enquired if snow was sold." 
A poet, named Stratis, thus speaks: "No one willingly drinks 
warm wine: but rather such as has been cooled in springs, and 
mixed with snow." Athenaeus likewise quotes an epigram, by 
Simonides, the chief subject of which is snow. "Rapidly rushing 
from Thrace, Boreas scattered this snow on the sides of Olympus. 
Un mantled men pierced he with cold pains; but how mild did he 
become, when he was living, lodged in Pierian earth! I therefore 
cannot think it seemly to offer warm water to a friend, as his first 
beverage at a banquet." 

Landolina took me in the evening to the house of a lying-in 
lady, who received visitors al the baptism of her child; and here 
I met the whole nobility of Syracuse; who, for a city of eighteen 
thousand souls, in which there is no court, are very numerous. 
The animation of the females, reminded me of the women of an- 
cient Syracuse; of whom Theocritus, in one of his Idyllions, gives 
us so lively a picture. 

The young lady had been five days delivered, and seemed to be 
perfectly in health, and only to keep her bed out of decorum.. 
She was cheerful. No one would have thought that her mother 
had borne fourteen living children, and had had twelve miscar- 
riages. If, as some people maintain, hot countries are not favour- 
able to population, and if the women too soon become old, Italy 
and Sicily, at least are exceptions to the rule; for here the female 
flower enjoys a durable spring, and its late autumn is still produc- 
tive of fruit. 

In Syracuse, as in Calabria, we meet with many faired-haired 
and fresh-coloured women. In the west of Sicily, they are nearly 
as brown as in Apulia: and the difference is as striking between 



384 THE FLOWERS OF 

the women of Taranto and the other women of Apulia; for, at Ta- 
ranto, I saw several that might have been taken lor German or 
English women. 

Most of the women that I have met with, in both kingdoms, are 
friendly and naive. 

I have read, in a late book of German travels, that the women 
of Sicily only give milk with one breast; that they suffer the milk 
of the other to dry away; and that they imagine the nutritive pow- 
er of their milk is thus improved. Travellers should be very cer- 
tain of any fact, by which the manners of a whole nation may be 
misrepresented, before they make such assertions. I have enquir- 
ed in Messina, in Trapani, and in Syracuse, and have been assured 
of the very reverse. No man had ever heard of any such custom. 

Great quantities of the pupyrus, which is now in bloom, grows 
on the banks of the Cyane. It continues to produce new sprouts 
•through the year; and its root is odoriferous. It is a kind of cy- 
press; and attains the height of seven or eight, or even of ten ells. 
Landolina has been imitating the ancients, who produced their 
paper from this plant; from which likewise paper has been made 
under his superintendence. It is strong, thin, and tolerably white, 
but does not fold so easily as ours, which in every respect is much 
preferable. 

At the extremity of the island the citadel stands; and an old 
castle which was built by the Saracens; not far from which is the 
poetical spring of Arethusa.* The ancient fable was, that an Ar- 
cadian virgin named Arethusa, a lover of the chase, ^disdained the 
passion of the hunter Alpheus: to avoid whom she fled over to the 
island Ortygia; where she was metamorphosed into a spring, and 
her afflicted lover into a river. Love did not forsake the stream, 
but followed the beloved through the sea, without becoming salt; 
and there mingled its waves with the waters of the virgin spring. 

Daphnis invented pastoral poetry in Sicily. Theocritus, the 
greatest of pastoral poets, was a native of Syracuse. Moschus, 
who likewise wrote Idyllions was born here; and Bion, though 
Smyrna was the place of his birth, resided in Sicily. Virgil 
therefore invokes the Nymph Arethusa, as the Muse of pastoral 
poetry. Who can forget the beautiful verses with which he be- 
gins his tenth Eclogue? lamenting the unfortunate passion of his 
friend Cornelius Galius, the poet, and singing the cruelty of 
Lycoris. 

" Thy sacred succour, Arethusa, bring 1 , 

" To crown my labour: 'tis the last I sing. 

" Which proud Lycoris may with pity view; ~) 

" The muse is mournful, though the numbers few, C 

" Refuse me not a verse to grief and Galius due- J) 

*' So may thy silver streams beneath the tide, 

"■ Unmix' d with briny seas, securely glide. \" 



'Ovid's Metamorphosis, lib. v. page 574. fDryden's Virgil 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 385 

The last gift which Virgil requests of Arethusa, is a song for his 
friend. The nymph now affords a spring for the laundry maids 
of the city; with the wafers of which, the bitter Doris, Doris ama- 
ra, the Nymph of the Sea, at the time that I visited the former, 
when a strong wind blew, mingled her streams Although it is 
still a large spring, it is now only a part of the ancient Arethusa; 
which has been destroyed. Neither does it any longer afford fish. 
However, when they sink for water in the city, the concealed 
Arethusa every where bubbles up. 

On the t 9th, we passed through what was formerly called 
Achradina, to the part of the city named Tyche: both of which 
towns, a part only of the great Syracuse, are now either arable 
lands or covered with charming fruit trees. We first inspected 
the amphitheatre, the work of the Romans; the whole circumfer- 
ence of which may evidently be traced, and many of the seats are 
still in existence, with the places of entering and leaving the build- 
ing. A monument like this, erected to indulge the sanguinary 
temper of the Romans, was by no means so interesting to me as 
the ancient Greek theatre; the seats of which, cut in the rock, are 
in good preservation. Nothing of the scene or stage, is now to 
be seen: but the proper and beautiful theatre itself is therefore 
the more conspicuous. Near the theatre, is the end of an aque- 
duct, which is led through rocks fourteen Italian miles, and is 
well supplied with good water. 

In this neighbourhood there are many tombs, cut in the rock; 
between which there is a street, or road, where the steps of the 
horses, and the deep ruts of wheels, may evidently be traced. 
It was here that Cicero discovered the tomb of Archimedes, 
among brambles; which was neglected by and unknown to the 
people of Syracuse. A sphere and a cylinder, standing on a small 
pillar, denoted the place where the great man slept; while it pre- 
served the remembrance of his discoveries of the relation be- 
tween the cylinder and the sphere. 

The remark of Rollin, is acute and charming; where he says 
that this decoration of the tomb of Archimedes, was entirely in 
the spirit of that great man; who placed more value on a mathe- 
matical demonstration, than on those dreadful engines by which 
he had repulsed the Roman army. 

The pretended Ear of Dionysius, is one of the latomiee or stone 
quarries, of which there are more in Syracuse. You have heard 
of, and will be inclined with me to laugh at, the tradition of Dio- 
nysius having given this prison the form of an ear; and of his 
having constructed it with so much acoustic art, that he, unseen, 
could hear the wailings and groans of the prisoners, or listen to 
their conversations. That this place was no other than a stone 
quarry, like the other, latoraise of Syracuse, and that it was after- 
ward used as a prison, is beyond all doubt. Holes may be 5een in 
the hewn stones; through which probably, rings were riveted, to 
48 



386 THE FLOWERS OF 

which the fetters of the prisoners were attached. The imagina- 
tion may easily give the form of the bend of the ear, the end of 
which was directed upward, to the entrance of this place. This 
might be the origin of the name; and afterward of the false in- 
terpretation. 

The work is wonderful, and has different divisions, some of 
which are over-arched, others are fallen in, and masses of rock, 
which served as pillars, now rise in the open air. The first di- 
vision is thus over-arched with rocks; and here there is a loud 
echo. We fired a gun, the report of which continued slowly to 
thunder round. Here there is a water reservoir, the arching of 
which is supported by pillars. Among the ruins, there is a de- 
cayed stair-case, which Landolina discovered, who supposes it to 
be that down which Dionysius, according to I know not what 
author, caused those principal persons to be taken whose arrest he 
wished to conceal. 

In Acharadina, we entered a Franciscan monastery, where we 
Were shown a beautiful recumbent statue of St. Lucia, the work 
of Vanini. The saint is supposed to be dead, and her death re- 
sembles sleep. In one of her hands, a crucifix lies, as if she had 
bestowed upon it her last grasp; and in the other, a palm branch, 
which she gained by suffering martyrdom. She is honoured at 
Syracuse as the patron saint. 

In this monastery there was a dog, that some years ago, per- 
formed an action which I cannot pass over in silence; because it de- 
notes plan, dignity, and courage. The country was ravaged by a 
wolf, to the attacking of which, the dog found himself unequal. 
The dog continued for some days to make a provision cf meat, and 
bones; which he concealed, and then took other dogs to the place, 
gave them a feast, led them to the chase, and in company with 
them destroyed the wolf. 

Near the Franciscan monastery stands that of the Capuchins; 
in whose garden is the great stone quarry, which properly con- 
sists of two latomiae. This greatly exceeds in extent that which 
is called the Ear of Dionysius; and no doubt is the quarry to which 
the Athenian prisoners were condemned, and in which they were 
so ill treated. 

There are various strong quarries in Syracuse; I am told, as 
many as nine; but this is the largest, and the one that is mentioned 
by Cicero, in an oration against Verres, where he celebrates its 
grandeur. The art, the amplitude, and the boldness of the under- 
taking are astonishing. The rocks are hewn to an incredible 
depth; and are in parts arched over, and in parts the arches have 
fallen in: and the combination of the arched and unarched vaults, 
the pillars, the projecting masses, and the caverns, with their 
perspective openings, form a whole which is unique in its kind. 

In these depths, the Capuchins have a large pleasant garden, 
the towering fruit-trees of which, sheltered from the wind, delight 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 387 

the eye, by their extraordinary and luxuriant productiveness, at 
the moment that, terrified by the bold rocks and gloomy caverns, 
it is in need of this relief. Some of these trees rise out of the 
rock, where they first take root in small cavities; which cavities 
are widened by the slow but unremitted growth of the root, that 
continues to extend in length and breadth, till a considerable 
cleft is at last produced. The thick stemmed olive tree winds its 
rugged knotty roots, wherever the rocky cavities conduct their 
growth, or the softness of the stone yields to their different rami- 
fications; and, after it has conquered all its difficulties, it rears its 
leafy branches, as if proud of its victory and its power. From 
the upward rim of the rock, the ivy and the wild vine hang; and 
extend downward, to where the cool air sports with their sus- 
pended shoots. The garden grapes cling to the terrific masses of 
rock, where the fig and the pomegranate tree are aiding to support 
its scions. The Capuchins cultivate for their own use, a yellow 
tobacco plant, which produces a well scented snuif. The monas- 
tery is poor; and is maintained by presents, in money, to the monks, 
in return for the excellent fruit of their garden. Some ancient 
tombs are found in these quarries. 

The catacombs are in what was formerly called Achradina; 
where is the most ancient church of Syracuse, in which the first 
bishop, Marcianus, who is said to have been sent by the apostle 
Peter, is buried. 

On one of the steps of this church, is the following Latin in- 
scription: which is probably Pagan. 

MEMORIA DOMINICI MACEDONIS. 

Lege et recede. Amici, no lite tristari, quia omnes mortales 

sunius. 

TO THE MEMORY OP DOMINICUS MACEDO. 

"Read and retire. Friends, afflict not yourselves, for we are 

all mortal.'** 
Melancholy consolation ! 
The catacombs, some only of which I have seen, extended un- 
der the greatest part of the ancient city: yet I doubt whether 
their extent is greater than those of Naples; at least they are not 
so deep, though they exceed them in melancholy magnificence. 
They form a true labyrinth, where a man may wander by the 
light of torches, from tomb to tomb, and, were he not attended by 
a practised guide, there he might forever wander. Broad passa- 
ges continually lead to round arched chambers of the dead, which 
have outlets on four sides, that again serve as passages to similar 
chambers. On the sides of the passages, there is tomb behind 
tomb, sometimes to the number of twenty, like the compartments 
of a burea, one behind another. The last compartment, therefore, 

* As, in the corrupt Latin of these ages, quia was often used instead of quod, 
we may read, "(hat we all are mortal." 



388 THE FLOWERS OF 

was always the first filled with dead bodies; to deposit which, the 
bearers must continually ascend over the other divisions. 

We met with Greek and Latin inscriptions; and there are some, 
which I did not happen to find, that are of Christian times. The 
red incrustation, or mortar, of which the ancients were so fond, 
is still visible on many; 3nd which, if you clean it, recovers its 
ancient polish. This probably was likewise used in Judea; and 
Christ might have alluded to it, when he compared the hypocrisy 
of the Scribes and Pharisees, to painted sepulchres. That these 
rocks were dug before there was any thought of employing them 
as sepulchres, traces of an aqueduct and some wells seems t» 
denote. 

We proceed through Achradina to TyChe, then to Neapolis, 
and from that to Epipolse, the west part of the city. Here there 
are two stone quarries, one of which, Cluverius supposed to be 
that in which the Athenian prisoners were kept; but it is not suffi- 
ciently spacious. 

Count Stolberg. 



SECTION CXXIX. 
Of Oporto, A. D. 1790. 

THE mind of every Englishman will be variously affected, on 
being informed of the wretched state of the arts in Oporto, the 
second city of Portugal. 

A lady who resided many years at Oporto, relates the following 
anecdote, of a rich merchant of that city, who intended to embellish 
his apartments with paintings: for this purpose, he applied to 
signior Glama, who happened then to have some valuable ancient 
pictures in his possession, which he was commissioned to sell, at 
a very moderate price; but the merchant, who was a better judge 
of the produce of the grape than of the pencil, started with sur- 
prise when he demanded twenty moidores for a Corregio, and 
said, "that he had latety bought two new pictures of larger dimen- 
sions for the same money." 

Respecting the manners of the inhabitants of -Oporto, my short 
residence in this city has enabled me to form but a superficial 
idea, especially of the females, who are seldom observed out of 
doors, except in going to, or returning from church, a place they 
usually visit twice a-day: and then the face is veiled, or half con- 
cealed beneath the folds of a black mantle. The few that 1 have 
seen unmasked, had a pale complexion, black sparkling eyes, and 
a countenance replete with simplicity. In stature, they are rather 
low, but of a pleasing figure; their walk and deportment are easy 
and graceful. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 389 

The men are well proportioned, rather low than tall, have a 
brown complexion and reserved countenance. They are polite to 
strangers, and respectful to each other; even the poorest people 
are treated by their superiors with civility. Their dress in winter, 
is rather warm than elegant; a large capote covers all but the feet, 
and a part of the head. 

The labourers chiefly employed here, are natives of Galicia, a 
province of Spain; hence they are called Gallegos. Their num- 
ber is computed at eight thousand in Oporto alone, and the whole 
kingdom is thought to contain not less than fifty thousand of these 
industrious adventurers. If this statement be correct, (and I do 
not give it on light authority,) that each man lays up, on an aver- 
age, eighteen pence per week, then the most profitable trade of 
Portugal is carried on by the Galicians; for their savings, accord- 
ing to this calculation, amount to one hundred and ninety-five 
thousand pounds per annum, which they carry to their own coun- 
try. Those who have witnessed their manner of living, will 
admit that this sum is stated rather below than above the truth; 
for they are the most economic people in the world. They are 
fed gratuitously at the gates of the convents, lodged in cellars, 
stables, or cloisters, and clothed in rags, in which they usually 
repose. Yet many of them possess lands and houses in their own 
country, whither they return at stated periods to divide their hard- 
earned pittance with their families: and finally retire as soon as 
they have made sufficient to live independent of labour, to spend 
the evening of life in the simple enjoyment of domestic felicity. 
To the honour of this industrious race, we should not forget So 
mention, that the allurements of gain have rarely been known to 
betray any of them to commit a dishonest action. 

Murphy's Travels, 



SECTION CXXX. 

Thoughts inspired by the Jllps — St. Ambrosio — Rivoli — The 
Comic Opera — Plains of Lombardy — Assassinations — Jlnd 
Gaming. 

THE prospect of the Alps at our backs, was truly grand. 
They not only separate us from Savoy, but they cut off our new 
world from the old; where all that was honourable, all that dis- 
tinguished civilized man from the barbarian, the torch of science, 
the pleasures derived from the arts, nay, the holy fire of religion 
itself, took birth. Italy was closely connected with Greece; colo- 
nies from which, being sent into the lower parts of this country, 
communicated to them the name of Grecia Magna. Others of 
the Grecian people, inhabited Asia Minor; and their colonies 
spread over the coasts of Asia and of Africa. Grecian kings, sat 



390 FLOWEBS OF THE 

likewise on the ancient throne of the Pharaohs, before Egypt be- 
came a Roman province. 

The dominions of Rome, included all the nations that were 
bounded by the Mediterranean. I hope soon to stand on the shores 
of this sea; the waves of which have so often washed Italy, Sicily, 
the ruins of Carthage, and the havens of Greece, in Europe and 
in Asia. Of Greece! in which favoured country, every river, 
and every mountain is become famous, in history, in poetry, and 
in mythology: here will I stand, the islands of the Archipelago 
will rise to remembrance; with mystic Egypt; and the sacred 
children of Israel: a people, who, in their history, and by their 
prophets, first foretold the coming of the Son of truth and love. 
He whose pure spirit, not limited by Alps and seas, spreading 
from the Ganges to the Frozon Ocean, animates and enlightens 
the sons of men. 'Tis true, his beams are sometimes darkened 
by the rising vapours of earth: but, before the end of time shall 
come, they shall ascend to their native heaven. 

With thoughts like these, I looked back upon the white Alps, 
linked to each other; and among which, the Rochemelon advanced 
its craggy front, superior to the rest. 

At Susa, the valley becomes narrow, and forms the celebrated 
pass of that name; which is strengthened by the fortress of Brun- 
ette, commanding two valleys, and standing opposite to the fort- 
ress of Briancon, on the confines of France. We halted at noon, 
at the little town of St. Ambrosio, in the front of which the mon- 
astery of St. Michael is seen at a distance, on the top of a high 
mountain. 

Between St. Ambrosio and Rivoli, the valleys widen; and many 
ruins of ancient castles are seen among the mountains. The parts 
around are fertile and pleasant. Rivoli is a small town; overlooked 
by a royal castle, built on a hill. In Turin, the gales are shut 
early; we were therefore obligedto remain all night, in a large, but 
wretched and excessively dirty inn. 

Being informed that there was a comic opera, w T e went out of 
curiosity to the theatre, which is small, and found it entirely full. 
The audience, with great politeness, insisted upon our being seated 
in very good places; which had certainly been previously taken. 
The performers were better dressed than might have been expect- 
ed, in so small a place. The native talents of comedy were very 
conspicuous in the acting of a man who performed the part of an 
old lover. A symphony was vociferously called for, between the 
acts; and the players were loudly applauded in many of the scenes. 
At the conclusion of a duet, between the old lover and his young 
mistress, there were two parties, who were very eager in exclaim- 
ing "bravo! bravo!" some applauding the man and others the 
woman. 

The passion for the theatrical exhibitions appears to be born with 
the Italians. A little boy, about five years old, stood at the corner 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 391 

before the orchestra on a small plank, at least two ells high, with 
his arms round a pillar, and his attention fixed on the performers. 
We were unable to enter into the passion of the scene with the ar- 
dour testified by the spectators, and we left the theatre long before 
the conclusion of the piece. 

We departed early in the morning from the uncleanly town of 
Rivoli, and proceeded to Turin, which is only two leagues dis- 
tant. The road is in a straight line, uncommonly spacious, with 
a ditch on each side, that is planted with a row of large elms. 

The extensive plains of Lombardy, the fertility of which have 
been famous for these thousand years, begin on this Rivoli. It 
was to these plains that Hannibal pointed, as a recompense to his 
army, for the labours of their march, and as the seat of future 
victory ; for which the hero was their guarantee. They extend 
over Piedmont, Milan, Mantua, and the Venetian territory, as far 
as the Adriatic. The lands are excellent, and mulberry trees are 
frequently planted among the corn. At some distance, high hills 
are seen ; which are clothed with vineyards and fruit trees. Be- 
hind us, and on each side, curving and forming a crescent, the lord- 
ly Alps appeared, covered with snow ; and among them the Viso, 
and still more lofty Rochemelon, advanced in fearful grandeur. 
Right before us, and some leagues beyond Turin, we saw the mag- 
nificient monastery called Superga, built upon a mountain. 

The beauty of the great objects around us, and the brightness 
of the morning, inspired our hearts with joy ; which was suddenly 
disturbed by a sight of horror. Immediately before us, on the 
high road, we saw people assembled at an inn, and asked our ve- 
turino what was the matter ? ii E un ammazzato ! v? "It is a man 
murdered !" said he, " but that is nothing to you or me : let us go 
on and take no notice." 

I and Nicolovius went up to the crowd, and there saw a hand- 
some young man, who had received a deep wound with a knife in 
the chin, and another that went to the heart. During the night, 
he and the murderer had been heard quarrelling together. My 
wife's maid, who had seen him lie as she passed by in the other 
chaise, thought she recollected in him a young man whom she had 
remarked at the inn, the evening before ; and who, being at play 
with another at mora, and having lost had been quarrelling. 

This game has cost many men their lives.. It is played by two 
men, holding up more or less fingers of the right hand, each against 
the other, and both calling, while the hand is raising, the numbers 
which they repectively choose. This is entirely guess: yet the Ital- 
ians maintain that a good player, the moment he sees the hand of his 
opponent, before it is half opened, can tell how many fingers he 
will extend. The Italians are so passionately addicted to this 
game, that no laws can induce them to renounce it ; and the quick- 
ness with which they play is incredable- 



592 THE FLOWERS OF 

The murderer of the man we saw, escaped; and during the last 
night, not far from the same place, another man was robbed and 
murdered. The Piedmontese are justly accused of a propensity 
to drunkenness, and of being scandalously rapacious, which indu- 
ces them to commit murder in cold blood. But how is it possible 
thai, in so active a government as that of Sardinia, no decisive re- 
gulations should have taken place, sufficient to redress this evil ? 
How conspicuous does this make the character of nations ! Among 
the inhabitants of Savoy, under the very same government, the 
traveller is in perfect security : while on the plains of Piedmont, 
and in the very neighbourhood of the metropolis, a man may be 
murdered at an inn, or on the high road. 

We arrived at Turin before ten in the morning. 

Count Stolbf.rg's Travels. 

SECTION CXXXL 

Of Turin, the Capital of Piedmont. 

TURIN is one of the most beautiful and most ancient cities in 
Europe. Fable derives its origin from a pretended Phetontes, 
brother of the Egyptian god Osiris, who is said to have lived fif- 
teen hundred years before the birth of Christ, and to have found- 
ed this place. Its large river, we are told derives its name from 
his son Eridanus. The later Romans called it Padus, and it is 
now called the Po. According to these fables, the city's name, 
Turin, was given it in honour of the Egyptian god Apis; whom the 
people worshipped under the symbol of a bull; as if the ancient 
Egyptians could have spoken Greek: it would have seemed more 
probable, had a Grecian origin been ascribed to the town, and 
its ancient name Taurasia derived from the junction of the Dora 
with the Po, or from the waters of the latter. It was custom- 
ary for the ancients to compare a stream with two arms, or with 
high waves, to the horns of a bull. 

The accounts given by history, are more worthy of attention; 
and from these we learn that Taurasia, which was then its name, 
was the chief city of the Ligurians, and the first which Hannibal 
took, after his passage over the Alps. The fame of this wonder- 
ful man gives a greater splendour even to the people he conquered, 
than any that fable could impart. 

Some centuries afterwards, under the reign of the Cesar?, the 
Romans sent a colony to this place ; and gave it the name of Au- 
gusta Taurinorum. 

The situation of Turin is uncommonly beautiful ; and as most 
travellers have remarked, very much resembles that of Dresden. 

The charming Po winds along one part of the city, which is 
surrounded with hills and mountains, that afford numerous pros- 
pects ; embellished with vineyards, groves, country seats, and 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 393 

gardens. Beyond the neighbouring heights and hills, the long 
range of Alps, covered with snow and fearful in grandeur, rise; 
and superior, among these giants of the earth, the Viso and the 
Rochemelon, with their beaming summits, tower. These charm- 
ing prospects are best enjoyed on the walls of the city; and it is 
a pity, that this spacious walk is interrupted by the inclosed gar- 
dens of the royal palace. 

We are astonished to see the Viso so near us; when we remem- 
ber that the Po takes its rise in this mountain, and is already be- 
come so powerful a stream. The expectations I form of seeing 
this river empty itself into the Adriatic, when it shall have at- 
tained its full maturity, are great; its youthful stream being so 
promising. 

Immediately facing the gate, which takes its name from the 
Po, there is a bridge over the river, that neither corresponds with 
the beauty of the city, nor the dignity of the stream. The Po 
street, which leads to this gate, is handsomely built. The plan of 
Turin, is a noble one. The streets are in right lines, and the 
gates and the houses, in a good style and taste: though the streets, 
in proportion to the heights of the houses, the Po street and the 
new streets excepted, are not sufficiently spacious. In the Po 
street, there are handsome and lofty arcades, on both sides of the 
way. The outside of the castle is not very promising: but the 
apartments are very magnificent. In a niche at the entrance, 
there is an equestrian statue of Victor Amadeus the first: the 
horse of marble, the duke of bronze. Amadeus is a noble figure: 
but I cannot say so much of his horse. The theatre of the Prince 
of Carignan, is beautiful without pomp. The comic opera is per- 
formed here during summer. Next to the castle is the large theatre, 
which is one of the handsomest in Italy. It is only open during 
carnival time; and I have not been able to form any good judgment 
of it, having only seen it by the light of a flambeau. The glimpse 
I had, however, gave me pleasure, by the noble style in which it 
is built. It is censured as not accurately conveying the sounds; 
for, as it is said, only the spectators in the boxes can hear. 

The arsenal, which is still to be enlarged, is a fine and uncom- 
monly capacious building, including five courts. The halls are 
supported by heavy pillars, similar to those of Gothic churches. 
Round each of these pillars, a thousand muskets are ranged, in an 
ornamental manner. Pyramids are erected between them, on 
which horse pistols are piled, with great elegance. In the midst 
of these halls, is one of a large size and circular form; the walls 
and pillars of which are ornamented with trophies of ancient 
armor, ranged in military pomp. Before the door of this hallj 
the figures of old warriors stand erect, in complete armor. The 
arsenal contains arms for a hundred and twenty thousand men. 
The cylindrical ramrod, for artillery, is not yet in use: the ram- 
rods here are all of iron. 
5© 



394 THE FLOWERS OF 

I and my wife, the first afternoon that was convenient, went 
upon the Gorso. This is the name of a charming public place, 
where, at this season of the year, every evening, from five to six, 
the nobility assemble: though they come rather to exhibit them- 
selves and their equipage, than to converse and enjoy the beautiful 
prospect on the Po. Fashion is honoured here, in preference to 
nature. Sluices are carried through the streets, to cleanse them, 
by means of a canal, which receives its water from the Dora. 
These sluices flow through drains into the Po; by which means 
the city is always clean. There are many large squares here, 
among which, that of St. Charles is the most spacious and beautiful. 
The buildings are handsome, and it has extensive arcades on each 
side. 

We went to visit the Marquis of Caranzana, who is secretary 
of war, at his vineyard; from which we had a view of all Pied- 
mont, properly so called, and a part of the country of Asti. At 
a little distance on a hill below us, we saw the royal castle of 
Mountecalieri, in the front of which, two rivulets pour their wa- 
ters into the Po. Here too we had a long prospect of the Po, 
whose windings have a delightful serpentine appearance. The 
fertile plains seem like another Paradise. Arable lands, vine- 
yards, meadows, and pastures, with interchangeable fruit trees, 
cast their shades around, and look like so many pleasure groves. 
The Po meanders through the plains; till, at last, it loses itself 
among the distant poplars, as if to relieve the flatness which might 
else fatigue the eye: and, at the farthest limits of the horizon, the 
proud Alps stand, linked with another chain of mountains that 
unite them to the Apennines. 

It was here that Hannibal showed his wearied army the rich 
European plains: or if it were not here, it might well have been 
here. I must not forget to tell you, that owing to the extreme 
heat of the present summer, the foliage is nearly as much faded 
as it is in the north of Germany, or even in Denmark, at the same 
season. Stolberg. 



SECTION CXXXII. 

Visit to Batavia and Bantam, in the Island of Java: — 
Nutmeg Plant — Clove — Cinnamon — Pepper — Pois&n-trec. 

THE eye looks in the country here in vain for the common 
animals and vegetables, which it had been accustomed every day 
to meet in Europe. The vegetation of the country is likewise 
new. Even the parterres in the gardens are bordered, instead of 
boxwood, by the Arabian jessamine, of which the fragrant flow- 
ers adorn the pagodas of Hindostan. The Dutch, who are so fond 
of gardens in Holland, have transferred that taste where it can 



CELEBRATED TUAVELLEKS. 395 

certainly be cultivated with more success, and indulge it to a 
great extent at their houses a little way from the city of Batavia; 
but still within that fenny district, concerning which, an intelligent 
gentleman upon the spot, used the strong expression, that the air 
was pestilential and the water poisonous. Yet the country is every 
where so verdant, gay, and fertile; it is interspersed with such 
magnificent houses, gardens, avenues, canals, and drawbridges; 
and is so formed in every respect to please, could health be pre- 
served in it, that a youth, coming just from sea, and enraptured 
with the beauty of every object he saw around him, but mindful 
of the danger there to life, could not help exclaiming, "What an 
excellent habitation it would be for immortals." The native Javan- 
ese, derive one advantage at least, from an atmosphere not subject 
to the viscissitudes of temperature experienced in the northern 
parts of Europe, where diseases of the teeth are chiefly prevalent; 
as they are here entirely, exempt from such complaints. Their 
habit of living chiefly on vegetable food, and of abstaining from 
fermented liquors, no doubt contributes to this exemption. Yet 
such is the caprice of taste, that jet black is the favourite colour 
and standard of beauty, for the teeth amongst them, comparing to 
monkeys those who kept them of the natural colour. They ac- 
cordingly take care to paint of the deepest black all their teeth, 
except the two middle ones, which they cover with gold leaf. 
Whenever the paint or gilding is worn off, they are as attentive 
to replace it On the proper teeth, as the belles of Europe are to 
purify and whiten theirs. 

The general reputation of the unhealthiness of Batavia for Eu- 
ropeans, deters most of those, who can reside at home with any 
comfort, from coming to it, notwithstanding the temptations of 
fortunes to be quickly amassed in it. From this circumstance, it 
happens, that offices and professions are often necessarily entrusted 
to persons little qualified to fill them. One of the clergymen, and 
the principal physician of the place, were both said to have origi- 
nally been barbers. 

In several houses of note throughout the settlement, the table 
is spread in the morning at an early hour: besides tea, coffee, and 
chocolate, fish and flesh are served for breakfast; which is no 
sooner over, than Madeira, claret, gin, Dutch small beer, and 
English porter, are laid out in the portico before the door of the 
great hall, and pipes and tobacco presented to every guest, and a 
bright brass jar placed before him to receive the phlegm which 
the tobacco frequently draws forth. This occupalion continues 
sometimes with little interruption, till near dinner time, which is 
about one o'clock in the afternoon. It is not very uncommon for 
one man to drink a bottle of wine in this manner before dinner. 
And those who have a predilection for the liquor of their own 
country, swallow several bottles of Dutch small beer, which, they 
are lold dilutes their blood, and affords plenty of fluids for a free 



396 THE FLOWERS OF 

perspiration. Immediately before dinner, two men-slaves go 
round with Madeira wine, of which each of the company takes a 
bumper, as a tonic or whetter of the appetite. Then follow three 
females, one with a silver jar containing water, sometimes rose- 
water, to wash; a second with a silver bason and low cover of tbe 
same metal pierced with holes, to receive the water after being 
used; and the third, with towels for wiping the hands. During 
dinner, a band of music plays at a little distance: the musician? 
are all slaves; and pains are taken to instruct them. A consider- 
able number of female slaves attend at table, which is covered 
with a great variety of dishes; but little is received, except liquors, 
into stomachs already cloyed. Coffee immediately follows dinner. 
The twenty-four hours are here divided, as to the manner of 
living, into two days and two nights; for each person retires, soon 
after drinking coffee, to a bed, which consists of a mattress, bol- 
ster, pillow, and chintz counterpane, but no sheets; and puts on 
his night-dress or muslin cap, and loose long cotton gown. If a 
bachelor, which is the case of much the greatest number, a female 
slave attends to fan him while he sleeps. About six they rise, 
dress, drink tea, take an airing in their carriages, and form par- 
ties to spend the evening together to a late hour. The morning 
meetings generally consists of men, tbe ladies seldom choosing to 
appear till evening. 

Few of these are natives of Europe, but many are descended 
from Dutch settlers here, and are educated with some care. The 
features and outlines of their faces are European; but the com- 
plexion, character, and mode of life,. approach more to those 
of the native inhabitants of Java. A pale languor overspreads the 
countenance; and not the least tint of the rose is seen on any 
cheek. While in their own houses, they dress like their slaves, 
with a long red checkered cotton gown decending to their ankles, 
with large wide sleeves. They wear no head-dress, but plait their 
hair, and fasten it with a silver bodkin on the top of the head; 
like the country girls in several cantons of Switzerland. The 
colour of their hair, is almost universally black; they anoint it 
with the oil of the cocoa nut, and adorn it with chaplets of flowers. 
When they go abroad to pay visits, or to take an airing in their 
carriages, and particularly when they go to their evening parties, 
they dress magnificently, in gold and silver spangled muslin robes, 
with a profusion of jewels in their hair, which, however, is worn 
without powder. They never attempt to mould or regulate the 
shape, by any'fancied idea of elegance, or any standard of fashion; 
and consequently formed a striking contrast with such few ladies 
as were lately arrived from Holland, who had powdered hair and 
fair complexions, had contracted their waists with stays, wore 
large head-dresses and hoops, and persevered in the early care of 
forcing back the elbows, chin, and shoulders. Every native lady 
is constantly attended by a female slave, handsomely habited, who, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 397 

as soon as her mistress is seated, sits at her feet before her, on the 
floor, holding in her hands her mistress's gold or silver box, di- 
vided into compartments, to contain areca nuts, cardamum seeds* 
pepper, tobacco, and slaked lime; all which mixed together in due 
proportions, and rolled within a leaf of betel, constitute a masti- 
catory of a very pungent taste, and in general use. When,- in 
the public assemblies, the ladies find the heat disagreeable, they 
retire to free themselves from their costly but inconvenient habits, 
and return, without ceremony, in a more light and loose attire; 
when they are scarcely recognisable by strangers. The gentle- 
men follow the example, and, throwing off their heavy and formal 
dresses, appear in white jackets, sometimes indeed adorned with 
diamond buttons. The eldex'ly gentlemen quit their periwigs for 
night-caps. 

The Chinese at Batavia are fond of play, and of opium; but the 
habits of restraint and moderation in which they are bred, and the 
cautious principles instilled into them, curb their disposition, and 
prevent them from falling into the same excesses. The}' are, in- 
deed, much more capable of conceiving formidable designs against 
the government; and in the year 1740, a considerable number of 
Chinese, residing in different parts of the country, joined in a 
revolt under the command of a man who said he was descended 
from an Emperor of China; and wlio, being joined also by several 
Javanese, attacked Batavia, but was repulsed. A fire some days 
afterwards took place among the Chinese buildings in that city, 
and several of the owners were accused of opposing, with arms, 
the extinguishment of it, with a view, as was attributed to them, 
of the conflagration's spreading over the whole town; that, in the 
confusion, they might assassinate the Europeans, and become mas- 
ters of the place, the alarm was such, that the Dutch Government 
gave instant orders to put all the Chinese heads of families to death; 
and the sailors from the vessels in the road were brought ashore, 
and induced, for the sake of plunder, to share in putting this 
bloody edict into execution. The unfortunate Chinese made not 
the least resistance. This dreadful deed was not approved by the 
directors of the company in Holland; and much apprehension be- 
ing entertained that the fact would excite the indignation of the 
emperor of China, deputies were sent to him the following year, 
to apologize for the measure, as founded upon necessity. Those 
deputies were agreeably surprised on finding that the emperor 
calmly answered that "he was little solicitous for the fate of un- 
worthy subjects, who in pursuit of lucre, had quitted their coun- 
try, and abandoned the tombs of their ancestors." 

For those, however, of their ancestors whom they have lost 
since their emigration to Batavia, the survivors seem to have the 
utmost veneration. A considerable tract of ground is setapait 
for their remains; and much expense incurred in erecting monu- 
ments to their memory. Every family above indigence, has a 



3<JS THE FLOWERS 01 

separate vault, generally surrounded by a wall, in the form of a 
horse-shoe, raised obliquely, so that the opening of the shoe is 
level with the ground; and opposite to that opening, is the door 
into the vault, upon which are several columns of inscriptions. 
When a Chinese of note here dies, his nearest relation announces 
the melancholy event, in form, to all the branches of the family. 
The body is washed, perfumed, and dressed in the best apparel 
of the deceased. The corpse is then seated in a chair: and his 
wives, children, and relations, fall down before it and weep. On 
the third day it is put into the cofSn, which is placed in one of 
the best apartments, hung for the occasion with white linen cloth, 
the colour with them of mourning. In the middle of the apart- 
ment an altar is erected, and on it the portrait of the deceased is 
placed, with incense burning near it. The sons stand on one side 
of the coffin, dressed in wMte coarse linen, and making every 
sign of sorrow; while the mother and female relations are heard 
lamenting behind a curtain. On the day of burial, the whole 
family assembles; and the corpse is conveyed to the grave with 
much solemn pomp. Images of men and women, relations of the 
family, (as among the ancient Romans;) and even of animals, 
together with wax tapers and incensories, are carried first in the 
procession. Then follow the priests with musical instruments, 
and after them, the corpse upoi the bier, attended by the sons of 
the deceased, clothed as before in white, and leaning upon crutches, 
as if disabled through grief, from supporting themselves erect. 
The female relations are carried in chairs hung with curtains of 
white silk, concealing them from view; but their lamentations are 
distinctly heard; and other women are hired, who are trained to 
utter shrieks still louder and more piercing; which last is also a 
custom still retained in some parts of Europe. Previous to the 
funeral, a table with fruits and other eatables is laid before the 
corpse, and wax figures of servants placed on each side, as atten- 
dants upon it. 

One of the delegates of the Dutch Company, from the medical 
garden at Batavia, gave a young growing nutmeg plant, and a nut in 
a state supposed capable of germination, to a person belonging to the 
embassy, who committed it immediately to the care of a gentleman 
then bound for England, in order to be put in his majesty's rich 
botanical garden at Kevv; from whence, had the plants succeeded 
there, this tree might have been propagated in the British planta- 
tions in the West Indies; in like manner as .the coffee-tree was 
transplanted to the French West Indies, in the beginning of the 
present century, from a very few specimens in the botanic garden 
at Paris. The nutmeg plant, however, suffered in the passage, 
and was left at St. Helena. 

The nutmeg-tree is a beautiful vegetable. The stem, with a 
smooth brown bark, rises perfectly straight. Its strong and nu- 
merous branches proceed regularly from it in an oblique direction 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 399 

upwards. They bear large oval leaves pendulous from them, 
some a foot in length. The. upper and Outer surface of the leaf is 
smooth, and of a deep agreeable green. The under and inner 
surface, is marked with a strong nerve in the middle of the leaf, 
from the foot-stalk to the point; and from this middle nerve others 
proceed obliquely towards the point and edges of the leaf; but 
what distinguishes most this inner surface, is its uniform bright 
brown colour, without the least intermixture of green, and as if 
strewed all over with a fine brown powder. The whole leaf is 
characterized by its fragrant odour, sufficiently denoting the fruit 
which the tree produces. This fruit, when fresh, is about the size 
and figure of a common nectarine. It consists of an outward rind 
between which and the inward shell, is found a reticulated mem- 
brane, or divided skin, which, when dried, is called the mace. 
What is known by the name of nutmeg, is the kernel within the 
shell, and is soft in its original state. 

The same medical garden at Batavia, contains a clove-tree. 
The clove is only the germ of the fruit, with the flower-cup con- 
taining it. The leaf is oval, smoothj small, narrow, tender and 
aromatic. The camphor-free bears leaves not unlike those of the 
clove, but stronger, and together with every other part of the 
tree, smells of that substance. It is extracted, by boiling, in com- 
mon water, the root, trunk, branches, and leaves; when the cam- 
phor rising to the surface of the boiling water, is easily separated 
from it. The cinnamon tree may be distinguished not only by 
the three nerves, which always regularly divide the inner surface 
of its oval leaf, but also by the same fragrant smell, which issues 
on bruising any part of the leaves or branches of the tree, that is 
known to be afforded by its bark. The pepper, which is observed 
to grow always best very near to the equator, is a creeping plant or 
vine, generally supported on a living tree. Its leaves, which are of a 
dark green colour, are not very unlike those of the common hazel, 
but are extremely pungent. The pepper grows in clusters, like 
the grape, but of a much smaller size. It is a species of the pep- 
per-plant that affords the leaf called betel, chewed so universally 
by the southern Asiatics; and serving for the inclosure of a few- 
slices or bits of the areca, from thence erroneously called the 
betel-nut. The areca-nut tree, is amongst the smallest of the tribe 
of palms, but comes next in beauty to the mountain cabbage-tree 
of the West Indians; the latter differing chiefly in its size and 
amazing height from the areca-nut tree, the diameter of whose 
jointed trunk, seldom exceeds four inches, or its height, twelve feet. 
But the symmetry of each is perfect; the columns of a temple can- 
not be more regular than the trunk, which rises without a branch, 
while the broad and spreading leaves which crown the top, form 
the ornamental capital. The areca-nut, when dried, has some 
similitude in form and taste to the common nutmeg, but is of a 
less size. 



400 THE FLOWERS OF 

Concerning tho supposed upas, or poison-tree of Java, of which 
the account by Foersch, attracted little notice, at least in England, 
till it was admitted in a note to Doctor Darwin's celebrated poem 
of the Botanic Garden, inquiries were made by Doctor Gillan, 
and others belonging to the embassy. Foersch had certainly been 
a surgeon for some time in Java, and had travelled into some part 
of the interior of the country; but his relation of a tree so veno- 
mous as to be destructive, by its exhalations, at some miles dis- 
tance, is compared there to the fictions of Baron Munchausen, or 
as a bold attempt to impose upon the credulity of persons at a dis- 
tance: yet, as it was thought a discredit to the country to be sus- 
pected of producing a vegetable of so venomous' a quality, a Dutch 
dissertation has been written in refutation of thestor}*. It appears 
from thence, that, information was requested on the part of the 
Dutch government of Batavia, from the Javanese prince in whose 
territories this dreadful vegetable was asserted to be growing; and 
that, the prince, in his answer, denied any knowledge of such a 
production. Rumphius, indeed, a respectable author in natural 
history, of the last century, mentions a tree growing at Macassar, 
to which he gives the name of toxicaria; and relates that not only 
the red resin contained a deadly poison; but that the drops falling 
from the leaves upon the men employed in collecting this resin 
from the trunk, produced, unless they took particular care in cov- 
ering their bodies, swelling and much illness; and that the exhala- 
tions were fatal to some small birds attempting to perch upon its 
branches. But many of the particulars of this account, however 
far removed from that of Foersch, are given not upon the author's 
own observation, and may have been exaggerated. It is a com- 
mon opinion at Batavia, that there exists in that country, a veget- 
able poison, which, rubbed on the daggers of the Javanese, renders 
the slightest wounds incurable; though some European practition- 
erg, have of late asserted, that they had cured persons stabbed by 
those weapons; but not without having taken the precaution of 
keeping the wound long open, and procuring a suppuration. One 
of the keepers of the medical gardens at Batavia, assured Doctor 
Gillan, that a tree distilling a poisonous juice, was in that collec- 
tion; but that its qualities were kept secret from most people in the 
settlement, lest the knowledge of them should find its way to the 
slaves, who might be tempted to make an ill use of it. In the 
same medical garden, containing, it seems, hurtful as well as grate- 
ful substances, is found also the plant from whence is made the 
celebrated goutrrmedy, ovmoxa of Japan, mentioned in the works 
of Sir William Temple; it is nothing more than that species of 
the artemisia, hence called moxa, of Linnasus, which is converted, 
by a more easy process than would answer with any other plants 
into a kind of soft tinder, capable, when set on fire, of acting as a 
gentle caustic, and continuing to burn with an equal and moderate 
neat. Sir G. Staunton. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 405 



SECTION CXXXIII. 

Island of Madeira — Story of an Englishman, the supposed 
discoverer of Madeira — Produce and trade of the Island. 

THE island of Madeira, at first view, appeared rocky, barren, 
and uncultivated; but its beauties expanded to the eye on a nearer 
approach; and nothing could be more picturesque and inviting 
than the appearance of Funchal, and its adjacent hills, when ob- 
served from the ships at anchor. The town is situated in the 
midst of a verdant valley, in which churches and other buildings, 
white on the outside, being interspersed, make an agreeable con- 
trast with the evergreen trees and plantations. Spring and sum- 
mer may be said to be the only seasons: as it is known that the cold 
or heat are seldom so great as to be unpleasant. During the ambas- 
sador's stay, Fahrenheit's thermometer, was from sixty-nine to 
seventy-two degrees, in the shade, at noon. It is seldom found 
to exceed seventy-five degrees, in theautumn, in the middle of the 
vintage; and in January it is about sixty-four in Funchal, though 
the tops of the hills in sight above it, are then covered with snow. 
The ships having left England in the beginning of October, when 
vegetation, in some instances, already began to fade and to an- 
nounce the speedy droop of nature, its wild luxuriance in Madeira 
was the more striking to natives of northern regions, landing so 
soon afterwards on that island. The whole creation seemed there 
alive. Myriads of insects were buzzing in the air; swarms of 
lizards moving along the ground in every direction. Scarcely a 
plant without fruit or flower; every tree in leaf; some of the hum- 
ble herbs of Europe growing here into the habit and size of 
shrubs. Nothing appeared languid or declining, except perhaps, 
man might be so considered. Most of the common people had 
dark complexions, forbidding features, were under the middle 
size of Europeans, with little of the spirit and activity of the 
original inhabitants of Africa, or of the colder parts of Europe. 
The offspring of the latter transferred to southern countries, often 
become, it seems, enervated and listless. 

Every honour and . attention due to the representative of a 
friendly and powerful sovereign, was paid, by order of the Portu- 
guese governor to the ambassador, as well on board the Lion, as 
on his going ashore, and after he was landed. 

In the hall of the government-house, was painted the popular 
and interesting, but doubtful story of the first discovery of Ma- 
deira, by an Englishman, called Robert Macham, who lived 
towards the end of the reign of the third Edward. This man, 
it is said, of obscure birth, had fallen in love with a young damsel, 
called Anne d'Arfet, of exquisite beauty, and of a noble family, 
which, disdaining so low an alliance, though Macham had gained 
51 



>^ 



406 THE FLOWERS OF 

her affections, obtained a warrant from the king to keep him in 
prison until the lady was persuaded to marry a nobleman, who 
took her immediately to his seat near Bristol. Macham, some- 
time afterwards being released, found means to convey tbe lady 
on board a vessel, provided to carry them to France. A storm 
suddenly arising, and the ship being ill manned, they were driven 
far to sea, and tossed for thirteen days, at the mercy of the waves, 
out of sight of land. At length, however, they thought they 
descried something like it, which redoubled their efforts to ap- 
proach; they perceived an island overgrown with wood. The 
•vessel was soon at anchor; and Macham and the lady, with a few 
attendants, went on shore, and sought shelter, by building a kind 
of hut, under the branches of a large spreading tree. In the 
course of the night, a tempest drove ihe vessel from her anchors, 
and carried her to the Barbary coast, were she was wrecked, and 
the seamen made captives by the Moors. The lady was so affect- 
ed by this fresh disaster, that she died in a short time; and Mach- 
am, through grief, soon followed her. Their attendants, rendered 
desperate by the loss of their conductor, quitted the island, and 
betaking themselves to their open boat, put out to sea, without 
knowing even what course to steer. After a series of adventures, 
these men fell in with a Spaniard, who, delighted with their story, 
communicated it to Gonzales Zarco, sent by the king of Portugal 
on a voyage of discovery, and prevailed upon him to sail in search 
of the island. However imperfectly its situation had been des- 
cribed by the English sailors, it was in a little time found out by 
him. 

The chief produce of the island is the grape, from which are 
made annually, upon an average, nearly twenty-five thousand 
pipes of wine, of one hundred and twenty gallons each; half of 
which is exported to England, North America, and the East and 
West Indies; the remainder is consumed by the natives, in its 
original state, or in that of spirit distilled from it. The grape of 
Madeira is generally white; and produces a juice of the same col- 
our; but there are others which yield a deeper coloured juice, 
forming a red wine, called Tinto, of which a mixture with the 
former, in a small proportion, serves to give it a darker tinge. 

There is likewise a red-skinned grape, called Bastarda, of which 
the juice is white. In some few soils another t;rape is raised, re- 
markably rich and sweet, from which is produced the celebrated 
Malmsey wine. Of this, the average quantity made, is said to 
approach five hundred pipes, and sells at about sixty pounds a 
pipe. Of the other wine, which in contradistinction, is called 
hard or dry Madeira, the highest price charged, when new, to 
dealers in that article, seldom exceeds thirty-two pounds a pipe. 
From other persons, according to the custom in every branch of 
trade, a larger sum-is always demanded. For old wine an addi- 
tion of twenty shillings a pipe, or more, is mado for every year 



.CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 4QJT 

it has been kept, as an equivalent for leakage, evaporation, and 
interest for the capital remaining unemployed. The average price 
on every kind of wine, is fourteen pounds, or thereabouts; and 
reduces the whole export value considerably under two hundred 
thousand pounds; part of which serves to pay for manufactures 
from Great Britain, flour and salt fish from America, and corn 
from the western isles, belonging, as well as Madeira, to the 
crown of Portugal. Sir G. Staunton. 



SECTION CXXXIV. 

Learned Institutions and Public Libraries of Vienna. 

WINTER had set in when I reached Vienna; and I was there 
assured the difficulties the traveller had to encounter in Hungary, 
the next country I meant to visit, were, for the want of civilization, 
very great, I thought prudent to wait here, till the return of fine 
weather should render the wants of the traveller fewer. 

Though Vienna is not famed in other parts of the empire for 
its learned institutions, or for being the seat of men of letters; yet 
a city like this, the capital of a government like that of the Aus- 
trian monarchy, cannot be without these institutions, its learned 
men and amateurs. 

I must pass over its university, and college of surgery and med- 
icine; its academies for the nobility, the clergy, and for the fine 
arts; the school for the deaf and dumb; and even the Normal 
school, being too little acquainted with some of them, and finding 
nothing remarkable in the others. Only of the first I would ob- 
serve, that it is on the old plan, where the students are not left 
to follow the course of study they or their friends may think 
proper, but one fixed by the university. Within these few years, 
most of the lectures are delivered in the German language, but 
those on pathology, therapeia, and materia medica, are still in 
Latin; and in this language the students are examined at the end 
of the week, on the subjects which have been lectured on during 
that time. But the Normal school is of too useful a nature not to 
say for what end it was established: it is designed to form teachers 
or instructors for the provincial towns and villages; that is, teachers 
for the schools and gymnasia. 

Here is no academy of sciences, and I believe there never was 
one. This is remarkable in so large a city as Vienna. A great 
deal has been said upon the advantages and disadvantages of 
learned societies. If it were left to be decided by the travelling 
literati, it would, notwithstanding the disadvantages arising from 
literary cabals and intrigues, whi«n often happen in them, particu- 
larly where a seat leads to honours and emoluments, be decided 
in their favour. This deficiency of a place of rendezvous for men 



•108 THE FLOWERS OF 

of letters, was lately supplied by the public spirited and hospitable 
Baron Born, who, besides being at all times, whe'n not occupied 
in the business of his office, of easy access, particularly to stran- 
gers, had his public days. Since his death, professor Jacquin, 
has a tea party on the Wednesdays; but it is ill attended. 

In collections, Vienna is very rich. The Imperial library, be- 
sides containing 5 or 6000 volumes printed in the 15th century, 
rare manuscripts, and a very extensive and valuable collection of 
prints, is well furnished with useful modern books. It is open 
three or four hours every morning to the public, and the librarian 
and inferior assistants, are very attentive and obliging. 

The library of the university is open for two or three hours, 
morning and afternoon; during which time, the librarians always 
labour under a caros, a disease common to university librarians. 

The richness of the Imperial cabinet of medals is well known. 

Dk. Townson's Travels. 



SECTION CXXXV. 

Admirable description of a Tartar, employed by a celebrated 
Traveller to conduct him to Bagdad, xoith other carious 
particulars. 

IN order to accomplish my design, it was necessary that I 
should submit to the disguise of a Tartar, and put myself entirely 
and implicitly under his direction, who, as a reward for his suc- 
cess, was to receive one hundred pounds, with a further promise 
of an additional twenty pounds on our arrival at Bagdad. — He 
was one of those striking character figures that a painter would 
like to take a sketch of; and methought, Tartar was written legibly 
in every lineament of his countenance and person. He was tall, 
muscular and bony; his figure bespoke great hardihood, strength 
and activity; nor could the trowsers which he wore, conceal the 
Herculean texture of his limbs; his shoulders were expanded to 
an enormous breadth; he was unincumbered with flesh, or indeed 
rather extremely lean; his forehead, though partly concealed 
beneath his turban, was very high; his nose large, hooked, sharp, 
and prominent; a pair of small, fierce, black penetrating eyes, 
barely separated by the nose, and a formidable pair of mustachios, 
which he carefully sleeked with pomatum into a point resembling 
an awl-blade, and which moved like the whiskers of a purring cat 
with every word he spoke, gave whimsical ferocity to the counte- 
nance, beyond the reach of description, and lendered him alto- 
gether as discouraging a confidential friend as ever a Christian 
trusted his life to since Mahon^t first set up the trade of a prophet. 
He surveyed me with great attention; opened his mouth two or 
three times like a gasping pike, as if i spe ak; stroked his whis- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 409 

kers as often; and at last pronounced that he would undertake to con- 
duct me; adding, in allusion to my black hair and dark complexion, 
that I looked more like a native than any Frank he had ever seen. 
He ordered me to cut my hair quite short, to provide myself with 
a Tartar dress and cap, in the fashion of his own, and saying that 
he would call upon me in proper time, departed. 

Thus equipped, we set out, not without great pain and regret on 
my part; pain at leaving a most beautiful young woman, whom I 
pitied and esteemed, subject to the resentment of a husband, at 
once jealous from nature, peevish from habit, and enraged from 
her open and unequivocal demonstrations of hatred; and regret at 
having been betrayed by situation into such a very serious di- 
lemma. 

I must add, that previous to my departure, the consul did every 
thing that was possible for him to do, conducive to my safety and 
accommodation on the road, which, as we were obliged to go to 
the city of Diarbeker, a great length out of our way, he observed 
would be long, dreary, fatiguing, and hazardous; he procured me 
from others, and gave me himself, a number of letters, and at 
parting, desired me to comfort myself with the reflection, that 
when I arrived at my journey's end, I should have to boast, that 
I went to India by a route never traveKed by any European before. 
Our route from Aleppo, was through Diarbeker, Mousul, and 
Bagdad, and from thence to Bassora. The condition of the female 
part of the species in these regions, may be easily conjectured 
from the following fact. 

One morning I was awakened before day-break, with a bustle 
in the earavansera where we lodged. I conjectured that the Tar- 
tar was preparing to get forward, and rose in order to lose no 
time. I was so far right in. my conjectures: the horses were 
ready, and I came out to mount, and was ver}' much surprised to 
perceive several horses before me loaded with something which 
stood erect from their backs, and which I had barely light to dis- 
cern were not men. I concluded that they were bales of merchan- 
dize packed in a particular form, and asked no questions till full 
day-light disclosed to me that they were human creatures tied up 
in sacks, and fastened astride on the horses' backs. There was a 
strange union of horror and oddity in the conception, that struck 
me at once with a mixed emotion of indignation, pity, and mirth. 
The former, however, got the better, and I asked my servant with 
some warmth, what it meant? He said, that the sacks contained 
some young women whom the Tartar had bought — "Good God!" 
said I, "is it possible that he can have bought wretched females to 
treat them with so little tenderness?" "He has bought them," 
returned my servant, "in the way of traffic, not for pleasure." 

On the eighteenth day of my departure from Aleppo, we ar- 
rived at the famous city of Bagdad. The Armenian, with whom 
I resided, did every thing in his power to render the place agree- 



410 THE F1.0WUKS OF 

able to me; and I shall always retain a lively sense of his good- 
ness and hospitality; he was not only generous and polite, but 
well informed, and pleasing in conversation. I took occasion to 
express to him the disappointment 1 felt at finding Bagdad so very 
diil'crent from what I expected; and told him that I had, when a 
youth, learned to think highly of it, or rather romantically, from 
reading Eastern tales. This led to a conversation on the Arabian 
Nights Entertainments, a copy of which he had in the Arabic, 
and produced it: he then shewed me with great triumph, a French 
translation of them, printed at Paris, which he had read, and 
declared that the tranlation was nothing at all iri comparison with 
the original. I believe he was well qualified to judge, for he was 
a perfect master of the French language. 

We talked of the Eastern tale of the Glass Man, who, in a rev- 
erie, increases his stock till he gets so rich as, in imagination, to 
marry the cadi's daughter, &c. &c. and, in kicking his wife, kicks 
all his glasses about, and destroys the whole of his visionary for- 
tune. I praised the humour of it much: ''Sir," said he, "there 
is nothing in it that may not be experienced frequently in actual 
life: those waking dreams are the usual concomitants of opium: a 
man who has accustomed himself to the pernicious practice of eat- 
ing opium, is constantly subject to them. I have, in the course 
of my time, found a thousand of those dreamers holding forth in 
the plenitude of imaginary power. I have seen a common porter 
become cadi, and order the bastinado. I have seen a wretched tai- 
lor, raised by the effects of opium to the office of aga of the janis- 
saries, deposing the sultan, and ordering the bow-string to all 
about him. I have seen some indulging in the blandishments of 
love with princesses, and others wallowing in the wealth of Gol- 
conda. But the most extraordinary visionary of this kind I ever 
met with, was one who imagined himself translated to paradise, 
co-equal to Mahomet, and sitting by the side of the prophet, ar- 
guing with him in defence of the-use of wine-and opium: he argued 
most ingeniously, listened in silence to the supposed arguments of 
his adversaiy, answered them, replied, rejoined, and still argued 
on; till growing at last angry, he swore that he was as good a pro- 
phet as him, did not care a fig for him, and called him fool and 
false prophet. A Turk, who was present, in the fulness of his 
zeal, laid a stick very heavily across his shoulders, and put an end 
to the vision; and never did I see a wretch so abject, so forlorn, 
or so miserably desponding; he put his forehead to the ground, 
which he wet with his tears, crying, 'Mercy, Mahomet! mercy, 
holy prophet ! mercy, Alia!' nor could he find relief, (such is the 
ruin of opium,) till he got a fresh supply of it in his mouth, which 
soon gave him a temporary respite from the horrors of his situ- 
ation." 

Unquestionably Bagdad was once a great city, of flourishing 
commerce; but the Sultan Amuraih the Fourth, when he made 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 411 

himself master of it, put the richest merchants settled there to 
death; and it has ever since gradually declined. About two days 
journey from it lie the ruins of the once famous city of Babylon. 
I was much disposed to go and see it, and thence drop down the 
Euphrates to Bassbra: but my Armenian host told me there was 
nothing in it to recompense a person for half the trouble; for, of 
that magnificent city, which was encompassed with walls eighty- 
seven feet in thickness, and three hundred and fifty in height, no- 
thing was to be seen but the bare foundations of some great edifices. 
The Tower of Belus, and the palaces of Nebuchadnezzar, lie with 
the rest in undistinguished ruin. The greatest curiosities then 
were, in the first place, the ruins of a building said to be the famed 
Tower of Babel, which appeared to have been half a league in 
compass; and the remains of a vast bridge over the Euphrates, 
wjiere it is half a league broad. 

From Bas^ora, where we arrived after a disagreeable journey of 
ten days, we took our passage in a date boat going to Muskat, 
expecting from thence to procure a speedy passage to Bombay; but 
the boat springing a leak, we were obliged to run into Busheer; 
from whence we proceeded in a frigate belonging to the East India 
Company, to Bombay; and from thence embarked on board a Por- 
tuguese vessel for Goa; where meeting with a vessel bound for 
Madras, and being anxious to reach this place, the object of our 
adventurous journey, we seized, as we fondly hoped, this early 
opportunity of gratifying our wishes: but an unusual fatality seem- 
ed to have attended us throughout the whole journey. 

It was now the eighteenth day of May when we sailed from Goa. 
The hemisphere had been for some days overcast with clouds: 
some light showers of rain had fallen; and you may conclude that 
it did not tend to raise my spirits, or free me from my ominous 
apprehensions, to hear that those circumstances indicated an ap- 
proaching gale of wind. I observed, moreover, that the vessel 
was much too deep in the water, being greatly overloaded; that 
she was in many respects defective, and, as the seamen say, ill- 
found; and, in short, very unfit to encounter a gale of wind of any 
violence. I scorned, however, to yield to these united impres- 
sions, and determined to proceed. 

On the nineteenth, the sky was obscured by immense fleeces of 
clouds, surcharged with inflammable matter; and in the evening 
the rain fell in torrents, the firmament darkened apace, sudden 
night came on, and the horrors of extreme darkness wej'e render- 
ed still more terrible by the peals of thunder which rent the air, 
and the frequent flashes of lightning, which served only to shew 
us the horror of our situation, and leave us in increased darkness: 
mean time the wind became more violent, blowing on the shore; 
and a heavy sea, raised by its force, united with it to make our' 
state more formidable. 



412 THE FLOWERS Of 

By day-light on the morning of the twentieth, the gale had in- 
creased to a furious tempest; and the sea, keeping puce with it, 
ran mountains high; and as it kept invariably to the same point, 
the captain and officers became seriously alarmed, and almost per- 
suaded that the south-west monsoon had set in; which, if it were 
so, would render it absolutely impossible for us to weather the 
coast. All that day, however, we kept as close as the violence of 
the weather would allow us to the wind; but the sea canted her 
head so to the leeward, that she made more lee than head-way; 
and the rigging was so strained with the work, that we had little 
hope of keeping off the shore, unless the wind changed, of which 
there was not now the smallest probability. During the night 
there was no intermission of the snow; many of the sails flew into 
ribbons; some of the rigging was carried away; and such exertions 
were made that, before morning, every stick that could possibly 
be struck, was clown upon the deck. 

About seven o'clock on the morning of the twenty-first, I was 
alarmed by an unusual noise upon the deck, and, running up per- 
ceived that every remaining sail in the vessel, the fore-sail alone 
excepted, was totally carried away. The sight was horrible; and 
the whole vessel presented a spectacle as dreadful to the feelings 
as mortifying to human pride. Fear had produced, not only all 
the helplessness of despondency, but all the mischievous freaks of 
insanity. In one place stood the captain, raving, stamping, and 
tearing his hair in handfuls from his head; here, some of the crew 
were cast upon their knees, clapping their hands, and praying, 
with all the extravagance of horror painted on their faces; there, 
others were flogging their images with all their might, calling up- 
on them to allay the storm. One of our passengers, who was pur- 
ser of an English East Indiaman, had got hold of a case bottle of 
rum, and, with an air of distraction and deep despair imprinted 
in his face, was stalking about in his shirt. I perceived him to 
be on the point of serving it about, in large tumblers, to the few 
undismayed people, and well convinced, that, so far from allevi- 
ating, it would sharpen the horrors of their mind, I went forward, 
and with much difficulty prevented him. 

Having accomplished this point, I applied myself to the captain, 
and endeavoured to bring him back ('if possible,) to his recollection, 
and to a sense of what he owed to his duty as a commander, and 
to his dignity as a man: I exhorted him to encourage the sailors by 
his example; and strove to raise his spirits, by saying that the 
storm did not appear to me by any means so terrible as some I had 
before 'experienced. 

While I was thus employed, we shipped a sea on the starboard 
side, which I really thought, would have sent us down. The ves- 
sel seemed to sink beneath its weight, shivered, and remained mo- 
tionless; it was a moment of critical suspense: fancy made me think 
I felt her gradually descending; I gave myself up as gone, and 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 413 

summoned all my fortitude to bear approaching death with becom- 
ing manhood. 

Just at this crisis, the water, which rushed with incredible force 
through all the ports of the vessel, brought out floating, and nearly- 
suffocated, another English passenger, who was endeavouring to 
take a little repose in a small cabin boarded off from the deck: he 
was a very stout young man, and full of true spirit. Finding that 
the vessel was not, as I had thought, going immediately down, he 
joined me in exhorting the captain to his duty: we persuaded him 
to throw the guns overboard, as well as a number of trunks and 
packages with which the vessel was much encumbered; and, with 
some little exertion, we got the pumps set a-going. 

The name of the English passenger was Hall. He was a young 
man of a most amiable disposition, and with it possessed all that 
manly spirit that gives presence of mind in exigences of danger. 
He and I, having, with great difficulty, got some hands to stick to 
the pumps, stood at the wheel, at once to assist the men and to 
prevent them from quitting it; and, although hopeless, determined 
that no effort practicable on our parts, should be wanting to the 
preservation of the vessel. The water, however, gained upon the 
pumps, notwithstanding every effort; and it evidently appeared 
that we could not'ieep her long above water. 

x\t ten o'clock the wind seemed to increase, and amounted to a 
downright hurricane: the sky was so entirely obscured with black 
clouds, and the rain fell so thick, that objects were not discern- 
ible from the wheel to the ship's head. Soon the pumps were 
choked, and could no longer be worked; then dismay seized on all; 
nothing but unutterable despair, silent anguish and horror, wrought 
up to frenzy, was to be seen; not a single soul was capable of an 
effort to be useful; all seemed more desirous to extinguish their 
calamities by embracing death, than willing by a painful exertion 
to avoid it. 

At about eleven o'clock we could plainly distinguish a dreadful 
roaring noise, resembling that of waves rolling against rocks; but 
the darkness of the day, and the accompanying rains; prevented 
us from seeing any distance; and if they were rocks, we might be 
actually dashed to pieces on them before we could perceive them. 
At twelve o'clock, however, the weather cleared up a little, and 
both the wind and the sea seemed to have abated: the very pros- 
pect was exhilarating, and as the weather grew better, and the sea 
less furious, the senses of the people returned, and the general 
stupefaction began to decrease. 

The weather continuing to clear up, we in some time discover- 
ed breakers and large rocks without side of us; so that it appeared 
we must have passed quite close to them, and were now fairly hem- 
med in between them and the land. 

In this very critical juncture, the captain entirely contrary to 
my opinion, adopted the dangerous resolution of letting go an an- 
52 



414 THE FLOWERS OP 

ehor, to bring her up with her head to the sea: but, though no sea- 
man, my common sense told me that she could never ride it out, 
but must directly go down. The event nearly justified my judg- 
ment; for she had scarcely been at anchor before an enormous sea 
rolling over her, overwhelmed and filled her with water, and ev- 
ery one on board concluded that she was certainly sinking; on the 
instant, a Lascar, with a presence of mind worthy an old English 
mariner, took an axe, ran forward, and cut the cable. 

On finding herself free, the vessel again floated, and made an 
effort to right herself; but she was almost completely water-logged, 
and heeled to larboard so much that the gunnel lay under water. 
We then endeavoured to steer as fast as we could for the land, 
which we knew could not be at any great distance, though we 
were unable to discover it through the hazy weather: the foresail 
was loosened; by great efforts in rolling she righted a little, her 
gunnel was got above water, and we scudded as well as we could 
before the wind, which still blew hard on shore; and at about two 
o'clock the iand appeared at a small distance a-head. 

The love of life countervails all other considerations in the mind 
of man. The uncertainty we were under in regard to the shore 
before us, which we had reason to believe was part of Hyder Ali's 
dominions, where we should meet with the most rigorous treat- 
ment, if not ultimate death, was forgotten in the joyful hope of 
saving life; and we scudded towards the shore in all the exulting 
tran ?pprts of people just snatched from the jaws of death. 

This gleam of happiness continued not long: a tremendous sea 
rolling after us, broke over our stern, tore every thirg before it, 
stove in the steerage, carried away ihe rudder, shivered the wheel 
to pieces, and tore up the very ring-bolts of the deck; conveyed 
the men who stood at the wheel forward, and swept them over- 
board. I was standing at the time near the wheel, and fortunately 
had hold of the taffarel, which enabled me to resist in part the 
weight of the wave. I was, however, swept off my feet, and 
dashed against the main-mast. The jerk from the taffarel, which 
I held very tenaciously, seemed as if it would have dislocated my 
arms: however, it broke the impetus of my motion, and in all 
probability, saved me from being dashed to pieces against the mast. 

I floundered about in the water at the foot of the mast, till at 
length I got on my feet, and seized a rope, which I held in a state 
of great embarrassment, dubious what 1 should do to extricate my- 
self. At this instant I perceived that Mr. Hall had got upon the 
capstern, and was waving his hand to me to follow bis example: 
this I wished to do, though it was an enterprize of some risk and 
difficulty, for, if I lost the hold I had, a single motion of the ves- 
sel, or a full wave, would certainly carry me overboard. I made 
a bold push, however, and forLunately accomplished it. Having 
attained this station, I could the better survey the wreck, and saw 
that th« water was nearly breast high on the quarter-deck, (for the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 415 

vessel was deep waisted;) and I perceived the unfortunate English 
purser standing where the water was most shallow, as if watching 
with patient expectation its rising, and awaiting death: I called to 
him to come to us, but he shook his head in despair, and said, in 
a lamentable tone, "It is all over with us! God have mercy upon 
us!" — then seated himself with seeming composure on a chair 
which happened to be rolling about in the wreck of the deck, and 
in a few minutes afterwards was washed into the sea along with it, 
where he was speedily released from a state ten thousand times 
worse than death. 

During this universal wreck of things, the horror I was in could 
not prevent me from observing a very curious circumstance, which 
at any other time would have excited laughter, though now it pro- 
duced no other emotion than surprise: — We happened to be in part 
laden with mangoes, of which the island of Goa, is known to pro- 
duce the finest in the world; some of them lay in baskets on the 
poop; a little black boy, in the moment of greatest danger, had 
got seated by them, devouring them voraciously, and crying all 
the time most bitterly at the horrors of his situation. 

The vessel now got completely water-logged; and Mr. Hall and 
I were employed in forming conjectural calculations how many 
minutes she^ would keep above water, and consoling one another 
on the unfortunate circumstances under, which we met — lamenting 
that fate had thus brought us acquainted only to make us witnesses 
of each other's misery, and then to see one another no more. 

As the larboard side of the vessel was gradually going down, the 
deck, and of course the capstern, became too nearly perpendicular 
for us to continue on it; we therefore foresaw the necessity of quit- 
ting it, and got upon the starboard side, holding fast by the gunnel, 
and allowing our bodies and legs to yield to the sea as it broke over 
us. Thus we continued for some time: at length the severity of 
the labour, so entirely exhausted our strength and spirits, that our 
best hope seemed to be a speedy conclusion to our painful death: 
and we began to have serious intentions of letting go our hold and 
yielding ourselves up at once to the fury of the waves. 

The vessel, which all this time drifted with the sea and wind, 
gradually approximated the shore, and at length struck the ground, 
which for an instant revived our almost departed hopes; but we 
soon found that it did not in the smallest degree better our situa- 
tion. — Again I began to yield to utter despair — again 1 thought of 
letting go my hold, and sinking at once: it is impossible, thought 
I, ever to escape — why then prolong, for" a few minutes, a painful 
existence that must at last be given up? Yet, the all-subduing love 
of life suggested, that many things apparently impossible had come 
to pass; and I said to myself, if life is to be lost, why not lose it 
in a glorious struggle? Should I survive it by accident, life will 
be rendered doubly sweet to me, and I still more worthy of it by 
persevering fortitude. 



416 THE FLOWERS OP 

While I was employed in this train of reflection, 1 perceived 
some of the people collecting together, talking, and holding a con- 
sultation. It immediately occurred to me, that they were devising 
some plan for escaping from the wreck, and getting on shore: and, 
so natural is it for man to cling to his fellow creatuie for support, 
in difficult or dangerous exigences, I proposed to Mr. Hall to join 
them, and take a share in the execution of the plan — observing to 
him, at the same time, that I was determined at all events to quit 
the vessel, and trust to the protection and guidance of a superin- 
tending Providence for the rest. 

As prodigality of life is, in some cases, tho excess of virtue and 
courage, so there are others in which it is vice, meanness and cow- 
ardice. True courage is according to the circumstances under which 
it is to operate, as rigidly tenacious and vigilant of life in one case, 
as it is indifferent and regardless in another; and I think it is a 
very strange contradiction in the human heart, (although it often 
happens,) that a man who has the most undoubted courage, in seek- 
ing death, even in the cannon's mouth, shall yet want the neces- 
sary resolution to make exertions to save his life in cases of ordi- 
nary danger. The unfortunate English purser, could not collect 
. courage sufficient to make an effort to save himself; and yet I think 
it probable that he would have faced a battery of artillery, or ex- 
posed himself to a pistol shot, if occasion required, as soon as any 
other man. Thus it appears at first view: but may not this seem- 
ing incongruity be explained by admitting, that personal courage 
and fortitude are different qualities of the mind and body, and de- 
pend upon the exercise of entirely different functions. 

Be that as it may, I argued with myself, in the height of my 
calamitous situation, upon the subject of fortitude and dejection, 
courage and cowardice; and, notwithstanding the serious aspect of 
affairs, found myself listening to the suggestions of pride: — What 
a paltry thing to yield, while strength is left to struggle! Vanity 
herself had her hint, and whispered. "Should I escape by an effort 
of my own, what a glorious theme of exultation!" There were, 
I confess, transitory images in my mind, which, co-operating with 
the natural attachment to self-preservation, made me persevere, 
and resolve to do so, while one vestige of hope was left for the 
mind to dwell on. 

Observing, as I told you before, the people consulting together, 
and resolving to join them, I made an effort to get to the lee 
shrouds, where they were standing, or rather clinging; but before 
I could accomplish it, I lost my hold, fell down the hatchway, 
(the gratings having been carried away with the long-boat,) and 
was for some minutes entangled there amongst a heap of packages, 
which the violent fluctuations of the water had collected on the 
lee side. As the vessel moved with the sea, and the water 
flowed in, the packages and I were rolled together; sometimes one, 
^Qjnetimes another, uppermost; so that I began, "to be apprehensive 



CELEBRATED TKAVELEERS. 417 

I should not be able to extricate myself: by the merest accident, 
however, I grasped something that lay in my way, made a vigor- 
ous spring, and gained the lee shrouds. Mr. Hall, who followed 
me, in seizing the shroud;>, came thump against me with such vio- 
lence that I could scarcely retain my hold of the rigging. Com- 
pelled by the perilous situation in which I stood, I called out to 
him, for God's sake to keep off, for that I was rendered breathless 
and worn out: he generously endeavoured to make way for me, 
and, in doing so, unfortunately lost his hold, and went down un- 
der the ship's side. Never, never, shall I forget my sensations at 
this melancholy incident; I would have given millions of worlds 
that I could have recalled the words which made him move; my 
mind was wound up to the last pitch of anguish; I may truty say, 
that this was the most bitter of all the bitter moments of my life, 
compared with which the other circumstances of the shipwreck 
seemed lessened; for I had insensibly acquired an unusual esteem 
and warm attachment for him, and was doubtful whether, after 
being the innocent occasion of his falling, I ought to take further 
pains to preserve my own life. All those sensations were passing 
with the rapidity of lightning through my thoughts, when, as much 
to my astonishment as to my joy, I saw him borne by a returning 
wave, and thrown among the very packages from which I had 
but just before, with such labour and difficulty, extricated myself: 
in the end he proved equally fortunate, but after a much longer 
and harder struggle, and after sustaining much more injury. 

I once more changed my station, and made my way to the poop, 
where I found myself rather more sheltered; I earnestly wished 
Mr. Hall to be with me, whatever might be my ultimate fate, and 
beckoned to him to come to me; but he only answered by shaking 
his head, in a feeble, desponding manner; staring at the same time 
wildly about him: even his spirit was subdued; and despair, I 
perceived, had begun to take possession of his mind. 

Being a little more at ease in my new station than I had been 
before, I had more time to deliberate, and more power to judge. 
I recollected, that, according to the course of time, the day was 
far gone, and the night quickly approaching: I reflected, that, 
for any enterprize whatsoever, day was much preferable to night; 
and above all, I considered, that the vessel could not hold long 
together; I therefore thought, that the best, mode I could adopt. 
would be to take to the water with the first buoyant thing I could 
see; and, as the wind and water both seemed to run to the shore, 
io take my chance in that way of reaching it. In pursuance of 
this resolution, I tore off my shirt, having before that thrown off 
the other parts of my dress; 1 looked at my sleeve buttons, in which 
was the hair of my departed children; and, by an involuntarly 
act of the imagination, asked myself the question, ''Shall I be 
happy enough to meet them where I am now about to go? — shall 
; hose dear last remains, too, become a prey to the devouring 



418 THE FLOWERS OF 

deep?" — In that instant, reason, suspended by the horrors of the 
scene, gave way to instinct; and 1 rolled my shirt up, and very 
carefully thrust it into a hole between decks, with the wild hope 
that the sleeve buttons might yet escape untouched. Watching 
my opportunity, I saw a log of wood floating near the vessel, and, 
waving my hand to Mr. Hall as a last adieu, jumped after it. 
Here again I was doomed to aggravated hardships; I had scarcely 
touched the log, when a great sea snatched it from my hold: still 
as it came near me, I grasped at it ineffectually, till at last it was 
completely carried away, but not before it had cut, and battered, 
and bruised me in several places, and in a manner that at any 
other time I should have thought dreadful. 

Death seemed inevitable; and all that occurred to me now to do ? 
was to accelerate it, and get out of its pangs as speedily as possi- 
ble; for, though I knew how to swim, the tremendous surf ren- 
dered swimming useless, and all hope from it would have been 
ridiculous. I therefore began to swallow as much water as possi- 
ble; yet, still rising by the buoyant principle of the waves to the 
surface, my former thoughts began to recur; and whether it was 
that, or natural instinct, which survived the temporary impres- 
sions of despair, I know not — but I endeavoured to swim, which 
I had not done long when I again discovered the log of wood I 
had lost, floating near me, and with some difficulty caught it; hardly 
had it been an instant in my hands, when, by the same unlucky 
means, I lost it again. I had often heard it said in Scotland, that 
if a man will throw himself flat on his back in the water, lie quite 
straight and stiff, and suffer himself to sink till the water gets into 
his ears, he will continue to float so forever: this occurred to me 
now, and I determined to try the experiment; so I threw myself 
on my back in the manner I have described, and left myself to 
the disposal of Providence; nor was I long till I found the truth 
of the saying, for I floated with hardly an effort, and began for 
the first time, to conceive something like hopes of preservation. 

After lying in this manner, committed to the discretion of the 
tide, I soon saw the vessel — saw that it was a considerable dis- 
tance behind me. Liveliest hope began to play about my heart, 
and joy fluttered with a thousand gay fancies in my mind: I began 
to form the favourable conclusion, that the tide was carrying me 
rapidly to land from the vessel, and that I should soon once more 
touch terra firma. 

This expectation was a cordial that revived my exhausted spirits: 
I took courage, and left myself still to the all-directing Power 
that had hitherto preserved me, scarcely doubting that I should 
soon reach the land. Nor was I mistaken, for in a short time 
more, without effort or exertion, and without once turning from 
off my back, I found myself strike against the sandy beach. Over- 
joyed, as you may well suppose, to the highest pitch of transport 
at my providential deliverance, I made a conclusive spring, and 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 419 

ran up a little distance on the shore; but was so weak and worn 
down by fatigue, and so unable to clear my stomach of the salt 
water with which it was loaded, that I suddenly grew deadly sick, 
and apprehended that I had only exchanged one death for another; 
and in a minute or two fainted away. 

Campbell. 

SECTION CXXXVL 

Curious description of the Timber Floats on the Rhinei 

THESE floats are formed chiefly at Andernach, but consist 
of -the fellings of almost every German forest, which, by streams, 
or short land carriage, can be brought into the Rhine. Having 
passsed the rocks of Bingen and the rapids of St. Coar, in small 
detachments, the several rafts are compacted at some town not 
higher than Andernach, into one immense body, of which an idea 
may be formed from this list of dimensions. 

The length is from 700 to 1000 feet, the breadth from 50 to 90; 
the depth, when manned with the whole crew, usually seven feet. 
The trees in the principal rafts, are not less than 70 feet long, of 
which ten compose a raft. 

On this sort of floating island, five hundred labourers of different 
classes are employed, maintained and lodged, during the whole 
voyage; and a little street of deal huts is built upon it for their 
reception. The captain's dwelling and the kitchen, are distin- 
guished from the other apartments, by being somewhat better 
built, 

The first rafts laid down in this structure, are called the founda- 
tion, and are always either of oak or fir-trees, bound together at 
their tops, and strengthened with firs, fastened upon them cross- 
ways by iron spikes. When this foundation has been carefully 
compacted, the other rafts are carefully laid upon it, the trees of 
each being bound together in the same manner, and each stratum 
fastened to that beneath it. The surface is rendered even; store- 
houses and other apartments are raised; and the whole is again 
strengthened by large masts of oak. 

Before the main body, proceed several thin and narrow rafts ? 
composed only of one. floor of timbers, which, being held at a cer- 
tain distance from the float by masts of oak, are used to give it 
direction and force, according to the efforts of the labourers upon 
them. 

Behind it are a great number of small boats, of which fifteen or 
sixteen, guided by seven men each, are laden with anchors and 
cables; others contain articles of light rigging, and some are used 
for messages from this populous and important fleet to the towns 
which it passes. There are twelve sorts of cordage, each having 
a name used onlv by the float masters: among the largest are ca- 



420 THE FLOWERS OF 

bles of four hundred yards long, and eleven inches diameter. 
Iron chains are also used in several parts of the structure. 

The consumption of provisions on board such a float, is esti- 
mated, for each voyage, at fifteen or twenty thousand pounds of 
fresh meat, between forty and fifty thousand pounds of bread, 
tenor fifteen thousand pounds of cheese, one thousand or fifteen 
hundred pounds of butter, eight hundred or one thousand pounds 
of dried meat, and five or six hundred tons of beer. 

The apartments on the deck are, first, that of the pilot, which 
is near one of the magazines, and opposite to it, that of the per- 
sons called masters of the float: another class, called masters of the 
valets, have also their apartment; near it is that of the valets, and 
then that of the sub-valets; after this are the cabins of the tyrolis, 
or last class of persons employed in the float, of whom eighty or 
a hundred sleep upon straw in each, to the number of more than 
four hundred in all. There is, lastly, one large eating-room, in 
which the greater part of this crew dine at the same time. 

The pilot, who conducts the fleet from Andernach to Dusseldorff, 
quits it there, and another is engaged at the same salary, that is, 
five hundred florins, or 42l. Each has his sub-pilot at nearly the 
same price. About twenty tolls are paid in the course of the voy- 
age, the amount of which varies in the size of the fleet and the 
estimation of its value, in which latter respect, the proprietors 
are so much subject to the caprice of custom-house officers, that 
the first signal of their intention to depart, is to collect all these 
gentlemen from the neighbourhood, and to give them a grand, 
dinner on board. After this, the float is sounded and measured, 
and their demands upon the owners settled. 

On the morning of departure, every labourer takes his post, the 
rowers on their benches, the guides of the leading rafts on theirs, 
and each boat's crew in their own vessel. The eldest of the valet- 
masters, then makes the tour of the whole float,, examines the 
labourers, passes them in review, and dismisses those who are un- 
fit. He afterwards addresses them in a short speech; recommends 
regularity and alertness; and repeats the terms of their engagement, 
that each shall have five crowns and a half, besides provisions, for 
the ordinary voyage; that in case of delay by accident, they shall 
work three days gratis, but that after that time, each shall be 
paid at the rate of twelve creitzers, about four-pence per day. 

After this, the labourers have a repast, and then, each being at 
his post, the pilot, who stands on high near the rudder, takes off 
his hat, and calls out, "Let us all pray." In an instant there is 
the happy spectacle of all these numbers on their knees, imploring 
a blessing on their undertaking. 

The anchors which were fastened on the shores are now brought 
on board, the pilot then gives a signal, and the rowers put the 
whole float in motion, while the crews of the several boats, ply 
round it to facilitate the departure. 



CELEBRATXU TRAVELLERS. 4S1 

Dort, in Holland, is the destination of all these floats, the sale 
of one of which occupies several months, and frequently produces 
350,0Q0 florins, or more than 30,0001. 

Mrs. RArcLiJcnu 



SECTION CXXXVII. 

■tff short Account of a Journey to the Gladeres in Savoy. 
Written in form of a Utter to Lady Mary. Blair. By 
J. B. Weber. 

Ye mountains, whose aspiring tops, 

With snows on snows, ascend the skiesj 
And, as the everlasting props 

Of heaven's high mansions, proudly rise, 
Oft on your hoary heads 
I've gather'd in their beds 

The flow'rs that spring doth blow. 
While thunder rock'd the ground, 
And torrents swell'd the sound, 

And clouds were seen below. 

To Lady Mary Blaik. 
Madam, 

THE Glacieresof Savoy, being one of the most extraordinary 
parts of our little globe, I think it not altogether useless to give 
your ladyship a short account of a journey undertaken in those 
mountains, by Messrs. Coxe, Churchill, Weston, and Weber, from 
Geneva. 

We set out from Geneva on the 30th of July, 1111, in the 
morning, and soon came to Chesne, a long village, where a bridge 
divides this little territory from the ^dukedom of Savoy. A large 
plain, diversified with fine cultivated hills, and bordered with 
high mountains, attracts the wanderer, till he arrives at Bonne- 
ville, a little. town seated at the foot of the Mole, an exceeding 
lofty mountain, in the form of a sugar-loaf. There is a large 
stone bridge of five arches, built upon the Arve,* near this town, 
from whence we entered a valley bordered with high rocks, shad- 
ed with woods. 

It opens itself, after four miles walk, and forms a very agree- 
able plain, intermixed with fine fertile risings till one arrives at 
Cluse, another little town, ten miles from Bonneville. — There is 
a large rock near this place, which hangs over the road in a tre- 
mendous manner, from whence historical tradition says, the Clu- 

* The Arve is a torrent that takes its rise in the ice mountains, and, after a 
very rapid winding course, of at least 100 miles, discharges itself into the Rhone, 
near Geneva. It is a remarkable sight, to see these two rivers flow together, for 
half a mile without mingling; the Arve keeping its gray; and the Rhone ites blufe 
colour. 

53 



422 THE FLOWERS OF 

sians defeated a large body of foreign troops, by hurling down 
stones upon them; there aie many such instances to be met with 
in the history of Switzerland. 

The road near this place, to the next village, is through a valley, 
where the Arve flows with great force. The mountains and rocks, 
on each side, are very elevated and romantic. The more we ad- 
vanced, the more we found the objects diversified by the different 
forms and structures of the rocks. Avery beautiful cascade rush- 
ing down a stupendous mountain attracted our eyes till we arrived 
at a village about five o'clock, where we took refreshment, and 
then continued our road to Salenche, having* exceeding: curious 
rocks on our left, and the Arve on our right. We stood amazed 
at the beautiful cascade of Arpennaz, which is a torrent, falling 
down a mountain, five hundred and fifty furlongs in height, between 
rocks of a muscle colour. Art is exhausted in the luxury of 
cities, in order to form a little insignificant fall of water; but 
here, lavish nature pours her plenteous streams from the top of her 
rocks, astonishing our sight, far beyond what the hand of art is 
able to produce. The rocky scene at length spreading on each 
side, left us in a large oval space, surrounded with corn-fields, 
pasture-land, and every sort of verdure; in the heart of which 
stands the town of Salenche, where we lay the first night. 

The place itself, indeed, is but very indifferent, although the 
capital of that part of Savoy called Faucigny. The Savoyards, 
of both sexes, are as healthy, stout, and handsome a race of peo- 
ple as can be seen, and of the strictest integrity; but I can by no 
means recommend their inns, nor advise those to travel into this 
country, who cannot put up with some inconveniences, such as 
fleas and bugs in their bed-chamber. 

They are not accustomed to receive any strangers, but those 
whom curiosity leads to the valley of Chamougny. 

We here took guides and mules to lead us the next morning 
to the valley of Chamougny. 

We rode sometimes between, and sometimes over rocks, and 
often crossed several torrents, which came running down from 
the mountain-tops, covered with snow. 

The Arve, in some places, rushes with impetuosity into a great 
depth, between lofty rocks, at the bottom of which the eye is 
sometimes recreated with fine green valleys, cones of mountains, 
piled one above the other, and feathered with firs to almost the 
very top, seeming to touch the skies, and bounded at last the vast 
amphitheatre before us. 

We began now to get the first view of the top of Mount Blanc, 
clad in a sheet of frozen snow, almost too white for the eye to 
behold. 

The aspect of this amazing mountain is astonishing; and fills the 
mind with the sublimest ideas. It is reckoned the highest on the 
ancient continent; being 2391 furlongs and a half in height, above 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS, 423 

the level of the Mediterranean, according to Mr. De Luc's last 
combined method of barometrical and geometrical measure. 

One of our guides informed us, he had been one of the twelve, 
who that summer employed fourteen hours in attempting to go 
up this tremendous mountain, but were obliged to return, not be- 
ing able to bear the intense sharpness of the air, or find any far- 
ther practicable road through the snow; most of them fell sick at 
their return. 

A t two o'clock we arrived at Chamougny, and though we had 
been continually on the ascent from Salenche, yet we found it ex- 
ceeding warm in the valley, and were surprised to see such fine 
fertile lands at the very foot of the Glacieres. 

This valley produces all sorts of fruits, and a delicious white 
honey, which the bees fetch from the salutary flowers of the Alps. 
The village is but an indifferent place; the inn, however, is good, 
and the landlady agreeable and polite. 

We met here with Mr. Bourit, (who has published a descrip- 
tion of the Glacieres,) and two clergymen from Geneva, of my 
acquaintance, with whom we went up the Montanvert. 

Being provided with guides and provisions, we proceeded four- 
teen in number, to climb this terrible rock, about five in the even- 
ing, and reached the summit, after a fatiguing and dangerous ascent 
of three hours and a half. 

This rock is quite covered with fir-trees, which we found very 
serviceable when the stones rolled from under our feet. 

Black clouds floated now, big with horror, during our ascent, 
and iattling thunder burst at last from the veil of darkness which 
brooded over the plain, and caused the mountain-top, on which 
we stood, almost to tremble. Our fears, however, of having a 
rainy night were soon dispelled, when we saw the weather clear 
up. without much rain; and now we proceeded, with fresh ala- 
crity, on our steep ascent. 

The human mind acquires a degree of strength and ease in its 
mental operations, in this pure and subtile air: the soul, discharg- 
ing the weight of that mass of vapours which hang over the body 
inthe plain, seems to participate the purity Of the etherial regions 
where she now is, and can raise itself above the tumultuous pas- 
sions of mortals, whose habitations, labours, toils and cares, are 
now left behind. 

Our guides, perceiving us desirous of reaching the top, told us 
we should soon come to the Chateau de Montanvert, which, on 
our arrival, we found to be a shepherd's cavern, made with large 
stones. The entrance into it was so low, that it was- with difficulty 
we crept in one after another. The sight of the stupendous ice 
valley, as seen from the top of this mountain, filled our minds 
with such admiration, as sufficiently repaid the hardship we had 
undergone. 



424 THE 1'LOWETtS OF 

Having kindled a large fire, with the wood that abounds here 
in great plenty, we took refreshment, which proved very com- 
fortable. Meanwhile, part of the smoke passed through the chinks 
of the stones, but that which remained wis almost sufficient to 
suffocate us; this inconvenience, however, was far more tolerable 
than the extreme cold of the atmosphere, which we could not 
have been able to have endured; especially as the ascending the 
mountain was attended with great perspiration and heat. 

Mr. Bourit and our six guides, laid in the open air all night, 
warming themselves with fir-trees, which they kindled; a sight 
that affords a pleasing sight from our cavern. Mr. Bourit favoured 
us with a French psalm; the echo of his voice, redounding on the 
neighbouring rocks, had an admirable effect. 

Mr. Coxe laid upon three large stones, on which he said he had 
rested as well as on a bed of down. 

Messrs. Churchill and Weston, laid in a large hollow stone, and 
I took my couch on the ground, strewing prickly deal branches 
under me, in order to avoid the dampness of the earth; a large 
sharp stone served as my pillow. Our guides kept up a large fire 
the whole night. 

Though, tired nature's restorer had but little refreshed our 
wearied limbs, when we soon prepared ourselves again for the 
fatigues of the succeeding dawn, and after having taken each a 
large staff, with pointed ferules at the end, we descended in the 
valley, upon those stupendous clifts of ice. that seem to have stood 
there from the foundation of the world; filling up the whole space, 
for almost a mile in breadth, between long parallel chains of 
mountains, whose tops shoot up to the heavens in a thousand broken 
and uncouth forms, most of them hooded with snow, and some 
bare, in form of pyramids. 

As we stood contemplating the wonders of these icy rocks, we 
might have easily fancied ourselves wedged in between the vast 
billows of some frozen ocean, north of Nova Zembla; where a 
sudden congelation taking place, had fixed them forever immove- 
able. 

A stormy sea, quite frozen, bears, I think, the nearest resem- 
blance to this ice sea: the waves are cut with oblique hollows, 
which appear to be of a fine blue colour, and murmuring streams 
of snow-water, run between those terrifying chasms. 

This scene, however dreary, exhibits a most noble assemblage 
of the vast, the wonderful, and wild. To the curious naturalist 
it certainly affords an inexhaustible fund for speculation. 

Mr. Coxe and his company went almost to the end of the val- 
ley, and walked from five in the morning till two, when they 
returned to the cavern. 

I returned much fatigued to Chamougny, employing three hours 
in the descent, which is far more difficult and dangerous than the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 425 

ascent, as the stones often roll down under the feet, and one could 
easily be brought along with them. 

Beautiful tame goats abound in plenty on this mountain: these 
animals skip and leap from one precipice to another, with an aston- 
ishing intrepidity. 

I was surprised at my coming into the valley, to find such hot, 
sultry weather; fields covered with corn, and rich meadows; sights 
that were a great contrast to the frigid and barren mountain I had 
just quitted. 

The curate in the village, shewed me every sort of politeness, 
till we sat down to dinner. He is a man who sticks fast to the 
principles of his church; and believes us Protestants out of the 
right road. I had some instructing conversation with him about 
the formation of the Glacieres. 

I then took a ride with the under-curate, (a well instructed 
young man,) to the Glacieres des Boissons, four miles from Cha- 
mougny. We left our mules below, and went up through a wood, 
shagged with fir-trees, and encumbered with great stones; some 
are of an immense bulk, and are often brought down by a consid- 
erable thaw. 

This Glacieres is very different from that of Montanvert, but 
not less extraordinary. It is full of ice-towers, some resembling 
pyramids, others are in form of sugar-loaves. A sudden chill in 
the circumambient air, indicated our approach to some unusual 
climate, and, being much heated by the fatiguing ascent of this 
rock, we thought it most safe to return to our mules, and ride 
back to Chdmougny. 

On our coming into the valley, the two daughters of the weal- 
thiest farmer in the neighbourhood presented us with an agreeable 
refreshment of strawberries and cream. One of them carried such 
a native smile and bloom in her countenance, that she reminded 
me of the poet's assertion: 

''Loveliness 

"Needs not the foreign aid of ornament; 

" But is, when unadorn'd adorn'd the most." 

I had the pleasure to meet Mr. Coxe and his company at the inn, 
much fatigued with their excursion in the ice valley; where they 
had traced the Glaciers almost to their very source. 

The rain that fell that night, occasioned a great thundering noise 
by the melting and falling down of the snow from the mountains. 

Vast lumps of snow are frequently carried off, and violently 
bolted from crag to crag, by adverse currents of air, in those aerial 
regions. The snow, thus detached, is then hurried down by its 
own gravity, and, in rolling, increases to such a size, that, in its 
descent, it has been known to choke up all the passes, often filling 
whole valleys, and burying the unfortunate passenger underneath 
its accumulated mass, 



426' THE FLOWERS OF 

In the winter of 1769, and 1770, there happened a very fright- 
ful fall of snow; the effect of the air pressed by the fall of this mass 
of snow, was so terrible, that it opened itself a passage through a 
wood of beech and fir-trees which covered this declivity, and left 
not one tree standing in its way. It stopped the course of the Gi- 
fre, that runs in the valley, overthrew on the other side a great 
number of trees, and demolished many better barns than those 
which remained covered, and crushed to pieces by this fall. 

The inhabitants of this valley lead the noiseless tenor of their 
way along the cool sequestered vale of life, and are but little taken 
notice of; yet their retired and peaceful habitations afford the phi- 
losopher an ample fund for speculation. Let him learn here the 
true wants of man, and what a happy calm his soul would enjoy, 
if he remained in the hands of nature. Intemperance displays not 
in this valley, its baneful effecls, therefore these people know of 
none of those disorders which reign in luxuriant cities, and enjoy 
a health}' and vigorous constitution, which brings them commonly 
to an old age. In winter they are almost buried in snow. 

The village of Chamougny lies at the foot of Mount Blanc. 

It would be impossible to give your ladyship a complete idea of 
this immense and majestic mounlain. The crust of ice thai covers 
it almost from its foot, in the valley of Chamougny, to it^ summit, 
resembles, in some places, a tempestuous sea: in others, one 
should think of seeing the ruins of towers and castles entrkcoup 
with deep chasms; in other places the mountain advances itsell on 
the borders of some pointed rocks. 

It is obvious, to every person conversant in natural philosophy, 
that if one could reach the height of twenty-four thousand feet 
above the surface of the earth, one would always perceive, in all 
seasons, and every where, the same degree of intense cold; not 
the least difference would be observed, neither in summer nor win- 
ter. Near the equator, or the poles, the variations of heat and 
cold can only be felt near the surface of the earth, where the air, 
charged with vapours, admits not the rays of the sun to pass freely. 
Hence it comes, that the Alps in Switzerland, though not so high, 
are covered with snow and ice, in summer, as well as in winter. 
This is also the plain reason why the snow of the upper region of 
Mount Blanc, very seldom melts, but commonly that of a lower 
height. 

The Cordelieres, a chain of mountains in Peru, lie just under 
the equator, and yet the cold is as strong there as in the polar re- 
gions, though their height be not 21,000 feet. The Spaniards 
must remember the sad experiments they made, when they at- 
tempted to pass some of those mountains.* 

*If your ladyship should be curious to read an enlargement upon this subject, 
you may have recourse to a late work, entitled Jlistoire JVaturelle des Glacieres 
de Suisse, in 4to, with many copperplates: translated from the German original 
of-Mr. Grouner, who has collected the substance of all the preceding authors up- 
on this subject. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 427 

We resolved to go through the rocks the following day to Mar- 
tinach, in the Vallais, thirty miles from Chamougny, and pass 
home to Geneva, on the other side of the lake, through Ville. 

Mr. Coxe and his company are the first, I believe, who ven- 
tured to make this round on horseback; we had several guides and 
baggage mules. 

I should not finish, if I attempted to describe the different aspects 
that nature wears in their rocks; let the poets and painters here 
kindle their imaginations. 

The first place we stopped at was the source of the foaming river 
Arveron, which falls into the Arve at the foot of the ice valley of 
Montanvert, two miles from Chamougny. This torrent gushes 
out with incredible rapidity from under an immense cavern of ice, 
that looked almost as transparent as crystal There were several 
vaulted apertures one above the other, the last of which I thought 
to be at least fifty yards high. 

We went, one after another, upon a large stone, at the brink 
of the torrent, under these icy vaults, in order to take a transient 
survey of this extraordinary place; but the consciousness of the 
peril did not permit us to enjoy long this sight, because our ears 
were continually stunned with the falling of some fragments of ice 
and snow, severed from the adjacent mountains, with a crack re- 
sembling a clap of thunder. 

These accidents often prove fatal to the inhabitants of this valley, 
and sweep, sometimes, men and cattle away. The mere flying 
of birds, or the running of Chamois, occasion, sometimes, these 
dangerous falls of snow.* 

After winding, for some hours, through a green valley, almost 
overshadowed by the mountains, we pursued our course for many 
miles on the banks of a rapid river, and found ourselves soon again 
inclosed amidst the intricacy of a thousand pines of an amazing 
size, through which our horses and mules now began to climb by 
a rugged, stony and narrow path, which scarce admitted the mules 
to pass. 

The rapidity of the torrent that ran between the mountains, 
which sometimes hang over the road in a tremendous manner, and 
the thickness of the fir-trees with which they are covered, joined 
to the solitude of the place, afforded the musing mind the most 
pleasing meditations. 

Upon viewing nature in this rugged and uncouth form, and not 
to feel a fearful emotion, is to be the person whom Horace says, 

" Should the whole wreck of nature break, 

" In ruin and confusion hurl'd; 
" He unconcern'd, would hear the mighty crack, 

"And stand unmov'd amidst the falling world." 

* It generally begins to snow afresh towards the - mountain-tops, before the 
autumnal equinox, so that the acquisition of snow and ice during the winter 
months, is far more considerable than the loss sustained from a dissolution by rain 
water, or the preceding summer heats. 



428 TIIE FLOWERS OP 

This sylvan scene retained its solemnity the whole way to Tri- 
an: a few cottages scattered about, amidst the wilds of this Alpine 
district, which lies almost in the heart of that range called the 
Monts Maudits, or accursed mountain.* After having refreshed 
ourselves with a glass of wine, and some bread and cheese, we con- 
tinued our journey, climbing over the broad back of another moun- 
tain, from the top of which we had a beautiful prospect, seeing 
great part of the Vallais, and the Rhone winding its serpentine 
course through the middle. 

The weather, which had been the whole day very rainy, now 
began to clear up, as we descended that mountain. 

Between nine and ten we arrived at the foot of it, at a town 
called Martinach, where we met with a very good inn. 

We proceeded on our road the next morning, through a very 
pleasing cultivated valley, having the rapid Rhone on our right, 
and rocks close on our left, with the fine fields bordered with moun- 
tains, at about two miles distance. 

We could not refrain from the pleasure of dwelling a little on 
one of the most capital cataracts we had seen.— It fell perpendicu- 
larly near us, in the form of a vast brush of water,, of at least 250 
feet in length, and almost wet us to the skin, as we passed by the 
flying particles of water. 

St. Maurice is the last town in the Vallais; the bridge over the 
Rhone here, divides this territory from the canton of Bern. The 
rocks and mountains disappear, the nearer one approaches the lake, 
which is not visible, till it presents itself suddenly in almost its 
whole extent. The sight is then agreeably surprised with the fine 
vineyards, villages, and country houses, that border the lake from 
Villeneuve to Vevay. It is near this first place where the Rhone 
throws itself into the lake. 

The road from Villeneuve to Vevay, is exceeding agreeable, 
and foes always through vineyards that come close to the lake. 

The walls of this pretty town are washed by the pellucid waves 
of this beautiful lake. The mountains and rocks in Savoy, the 
other side of the water, make a fine appearance. The road from 
this town to Lausanne, continues on the elevated, fruitful banks of 
the lake; and surpasses, for the pleasantness, the most I have seen 
in any part of Switzerland, German j t , France, the Netherlands, 
or even England. 

It would be needless to describe to your ladyship, the beautiful 
environs of our little republic within the limits of France. Savoy, 
and Switzerland, your ladyship enjoying daily that enchanting 
prospect. 

Lausanne lies almost at the foot of Mount Jura, and is one mile 
from the lake. The cathedral may be reckoned one of the largest 
Protestant churches in Europe. It stands in the highest part of 

* This place is the first in the Pays de Vallais. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 429 

the town, upon a hill; there is a fine terrace round it, from whence 
almost the whole lake may be viewed, with the mountains of 
Savoy on the opposite side, and the rich country of Geneva, thir- 
ty miles in extent. 

Upon reading in this church several inscriptions on the monu- 
ments of the illustrious dead, who once shone in either the learned 
or military world, these lines of Gray arose in my mind: 

The boast of heraldry, the pomp of power, 

And all that beauty, all that wealth e'er gave; 
Await alike, th' inevitable hour; 

The paths of glory lead but to the grave. 



SECTION CXXXVIII. 

*/2 Picturesque Description, by the elegant authoress* of the 
Mysteries of Udolpho, on a Journey made in the Summer 
of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Ger- 
many. 

THE travellers, Mr. and Mrs. RadclifFe, set out from Helvoet- 
sluys, from thence through Rotterdam, Delft, Hague, .Leyden, 
Amsterdam, Utrecht, Nimeguen, Cleves, Cologne, Andernach, 
Coblentz, Mentz, Frankfort, Worms and Fribourg. Here they 
intended to have commenced a view of the sublime scenery of 
Switzerland, but were prevented by an unexpected incident. In. 
the following description of the approach to Andernach, Mrs. Rad- 
cliffe is peculiarly happy in her selection of images. 

We passed through two or three small towns, whose ruined 
gates and walls told of their antiquity, and that they had once been 
held of some consequence in the defence of the valley. Their pre<= 
sent desolation formed a melancholy contrast with the cheerful 
cultivation around them. 

These, however, with every village in our way, were decorated 
with green boughs, planted before the door of each cottage, for it 
was a day of festival. The little chapels at the road side, and the 
image, which, every now and then, appeared under a spreading 
tree, were adorned with wreaths of fresh flowers; and though one 
might smile at the emblems of superstition, it was impossible not 
to reverence the sentiments of pious affection, which had adjusted 
these simple ornaments. 

About half-way to Andernach, the westers rocks suddenly re- 
cede from the river, and, rising to greater height, form a grand 
sweep round a plain, cultivated with orchards, gardens, fields, corn 
and vineyards. The valley here spreads to a breadth of nearly a 
mile and a half, and exhibits grandeur, beauty, and barren subli- 

*Mrs. Raclcfiffe. 

54 



430 THE FLOWERS OF 

mity, united in a singular manner. The abrupt steeps that rise 
over this plain, are entirely covered with wood, except that here 
and there the ravage of a winter torrent appeared, which could 
sometimes be traced from the very summit of the acclivity to the 
base. Near the centre, this noble amphitheatre opens to a glen, 
that shows only wooded mountains, point above point, in long 
perspective: such sylvan pomp we had seldom seen! But though 
the tuftings of the nearer woods were beautifully luxuriant, there 
seemed to be few timber trees amongst them. The opposite shore 
exhibited only a range of rocks, variegated like marble, of which 
purple was the predominating tint, and uniformly disposed in vast 
oblique strata. Along the base of this tremendous wall, and on 
the points above, villages, with each its tall, grey steeple, were 
thickly strewn; thus mingling in striking contrast the cheerfulness 
of populous inhabitation with the horrors of untamed nature. A 
few monasteries, resembling castles in their extent, and known 
from such only by their spires, were distinguishable; and in the 
widening perspective of the Rhine, an old castle itself now and 
then appeared on the summit of a lofty mountain, somewhat remote 
from the shore; an object rendered sweetly picturesque, as the 
sun's rays lighted up its towers and fortified terraces, while the 
shrubby steeps below were in shade. 

We saw this landscape under the happiest circumstances of sea- 
son and weather; the woods and plants were in their midsummer 
bloom, and the mellow light of evening heightened the riches of 
their hues, and gave exquisite effect to one-half of the amphithea- 
tre we were passing, while the other half was in shadow. The 
air was scenied by bean blossoms, and by lime-trees, then in flower, 
that bordered the road. If this plain had mingled pasture with 
its groves, it would have been truly Arcadian; hut neither here, 
nor through the whole of this delightful valley, did we see a single 
pasture of meadow, except now and then in an island on the Rhine; 
deficiences which are here supplied, to the lover of landscape, by 
the verdure of the woods and vines. In other parts of Germanv 
they are more to be regretted, where, frequently, only corn and 
rock colour the land. 

Fatigued, at length, by such prodigality of beauty, we were 
glad to be shrouded awhile from the view of it, amongst clo«e 
houghs, and to see only the wild rivulets, with their rustic bridges 
of faggots and earth, which, descending from among the moun- 
tains, irequently crossed our way; or, the simple peasant girj, 
leading her cows to feed upon the narrow strip of grass that mar- 
gined the road. The little bells that jingled at their necks would 
not suffer them to stray beyond their hearing. If we had not lon°- 
since dismissed our surprise at the scarcity and bad quality of the 
cheese and butter in Germany, vve should have done so now, on 
perceiving this scanty method of pasturing the cattle, which future 
observation convinced us was the frequent practice 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 4 31 

About sun-set we reached the little village of Namedy, seated 
near the foot of a rock, round which the Rhine makes a sudden 
sweep, and contracted on the bold precipices of Hammerstein on 
the opposite shore; its green current passes with astonishing rapi- 
dity and sounding strength. These circumstances of scenery, with 
the tall masts of vessels lying below the shrubby bank, on which 
the village stands, and seeming to heighten by comparison the 
stupendous rocks that rose around them; the moving figures of 
boatmen and horses employed in towing a barge against the stream 
in the bay beyond; and a group of peasants on the high quay in 
the fore ground, watching their progress; the ancient castle of 
Hammerstein overlooking the whole; these are a combination of 
images that formed one of the most inteiesting pictures we had 
seen. 

The valley again expanding, the walls and turrets of Andernach, 
with its Roman tower rising independently at the foot of a moun- 
tain, and the ruins of its castle above, appeared athwart the per- 
spective of the river, terminating the pass; for there the rocky 
boundary opened to plains and remote mountains. The light va- 
pour that rose from the water, and was tinged by the setting rays, 
spread a purple haze over the town and the cliffs, which, at this 
distance, appeared to impend over it; colouring extremely beauti- 
ful, contrasted as it was by the clearer and deeper tints of rocks, 
wood, and water, nearer to the eye. 

As we approached Andernach, its situation seemed to be perpe- 
tually changing with the winding bank. Now it appeared seated 
on a low peninsula, that nearly crossed the Rhine, overhung by 
romantic roeks; but this vision vanished as we advanced, and we 
perceived the town lying along a curving shore, near the foot of 
the cliffs, which were finely fringed with wood, and at the en- 
trance of extensive plains. Its towers seen afar, would be signs 
of a considerable place, to those who had not before been wearied 
of such symptoms by the towers of Neufs, and other German towns. 
From a wooded precipice over the river we had soon after a finer 
retrospective glimpse of the valley, its fantastic shores, and long 
mountainous distance, over which evening had drawn her sweet- 
est colouring. As we pursued the pass, the heights on either hand 
gradually softened; the country beyond showed remote mountains 
less wild and aspiring than those we had left, and the blooming 
tint, which had invested the distance, deepened to a dusky purple, 
and then vanished in the gloom of twilight; The progressive in- 
fluence of the tower upon the landscape was interesting; .and the 
shade of evening under which we entered Andernach, harmonized 
with the desolation and silence of its old walls, and the broken 
ground around them. We passed a draw-bridge, and a ruinous 
gate-way, and were sufficiently fatigued to be somewhat anxious 
as to our accommodation. The English habit of considering, to- 
wards the end of the day's journey, that you are not far from the 



432 THE FLOWERS Of 

cheerful reception, the ready attendance, and conveniences of a 
substantial inn, will soon be lost in Germany. There, instead of 
being in good spirits during the last stage, from such a prospect, 
you have to consider, whether you shall find a room not absolutely 
disgusting, or a house with any eatable provision, or a landlady 
who will give it you, before the delay and the fatigue of a hundred 
requests, have rendered you almost incapable of receiving it. — 
When your carriage stops at the inn, you will perhaps perceive, 
instead of the alacrity of an English waiter, or the civility of an 
English landlord, a huge figure, wrapped in a great coat, with a 
red worsted cap on his head, and a pipe in his mouth, stalking 
before the door. This is the landlord. He makes no alteration in 
his pace on perceiving you,- or, if he stops, it is to eye you with 
curiosity; he seldom speaks, never bows, or assists you to alight; 
and perhaps stands surrounded by a troop of slovenly girls, his 
daughters, whom the sound of wheels has brought to the door, and 
who as they lean indolently against it, gaze at you with rude curi- 
osity and surprise. 

When we arrived at Mentz, the friends to whom we had letters 
began to conduct us through the melancholy curiosities left in the 
city by the siege. These are chiefly in the southern quarter, against 
which the direct attack of the allies was made, and their approaches 
most advanced. Some entire streets have been destroyed here, 
and were still in ruins. A magnificent church, attached to a con- 
vent of Franciscan monks, is amongst the most lamentable specta- 
cles; what was the roof, now lies in heaps over the pavement; not 
a vestige of furniture or decoration has escaped the flames, and 
there are chasms in the walls larger than the noble windows that 
once illuminated them. This church and convent were set on fire 
by a bomb; and of the sick soldiers who were lodged in the latter, 
it is feared that but few were removed before the destruction of 
the building. We next saw the remains of a palace, built by the 
present provost of the Chapter of Nobles; an institution which is 
so rich, that their superior had a more elegant residence than the 
elector. It was of stone, and the principal front was in the Co- 
rinthian order, six columns of which supported a spacious open 
gallery, ornamented with statues, for its whole length. The 
wings formed two sides of a square, which separated the palace 
from the street. A profusion of the richest furniture, and a valu- 
able collection of paintings, filled the interior. Of the whole edi- 
fice little now remains but the shattered walls of the centre, which 
have been so scorched as to lose all appearance of having belonged 
to a splendid structure. It was burned the night before the fire of 
the Franciscan church, and two nights after the French had remo- 
ved their head quarters, and their municipality with it. On the 
day before the removal, a bomb had fallen upon the French general 
Blou, destroying him on the spot, and mortally wounding an offi- 
cer with whom he was conversing. The ruins are now so accumii- 



CELEBRATE!! TRAVELLERS. 43S 

iated over the court-yard, that we could not discern it to have ever 
had that appendage of a distinguished residence. 

But the church of Notre Dame was the most conspicuous of ma- 
ny ruined objects. The steeple of this had been one of the grand- 
est ornaments of the city; a shower of bombs set fire to it; and 
while it was thus rendered an easy mark for the besiegers, their 
cannon played upon, and beat a great part of it to the ground. 
By its Fall, the roof of the church was shattered, but the body did 
not otherwise suffer any material injury. Wooden galleries have 
beer; raised round the remainder of the steeple, not for the purpose 
of repairing, but for that of entirely removing it; and, to save the 
trouble of letting down the stones on the outside, a wooden pipe 
or channel has been made, through which they are lowered into 
the church. The appearance of this steeple, which was once very 
large and lofty, is rendered striking by these preparations for its 
total destruction. 

The whole church is built of stone, dug from the neighbouring 
hills, the colour of which is so delicate a pink, that it might be 
supposed to be given by art. The elector's palace, and several 
other public buildings in the city, are formed of this stone. 

Passing through the gates, on the side of Mentz, we came to 
a slope near the river, and beyond the glacis of the place; — which 
was then partly covered with huge masses of stone scattered among 
the roots of broken trees and shrubs, that had begun again to 
shoot their verdure over the amputated trunks. This was the 
scite of the palace of the elector, called both from the beauty of 
its situation, and the splendour of its structure, La Favorita. The 
apartments of the palace, and the terraces of the garden, com- 
manded extensive views of the Rhine and the surrounding coun- 
try ascending from its banks; and the gardens themselves were so 
beautifully disposed, as to be thought worthy of the name of 
English. They were ornamented with pavilions, which had each 
its distinct prospect, and with one music-room in the thickest part 
of the shrubbery. Of the building, nothing is now visible, but 
some disjointed stones; and of the garden, only the broken trunks 
of trees. The palace was burned, and the gardens levelled by 
the French, that they might not afford shelter to the Prussians 
during the siege. 

Fi-om this spot we were shewn the positions of the allied forces, 
the course of their approaches, and the chief outworks of the city. 
Hockheim, Kostheim, and Cassel, lay before us, on the other side 
of the river, a gentle rise on this side, at the distance of near a 
mile, was the first station of the allies, part of whose force was 
covered behind it; their last batteries were within two hundred and 
fifty paces of the city. The ground had been since. levelled, and 
was now covered with standing corn, but the track of the trenches 
was in some places visible. On the other hand, the forts, in 
which the strength of the whole so much consists, were com- 



434 THE FLOWERS OF 

plclely repaired, and had no appearance of having been so lately 
at tacked. They are five in number, and being raised at a con- 
siderable distance from the walls of the city, no near approaches 
can be made, till some of them are either taken or destroyed; for 
they are said to be regular and strong fortifications, capable of 
containing numerous garrisons, and communicating with the city 
itself by passages cut in the ground, through which they may be 
constantly reinforced. 

Only one of these five forts, that nearest the river, was 
destroyed in the late siege, which would have been much more 
tedious, but for the want of provisions and medicines, that began 
to be felt in the garrison. The walls of the city were almost un- 
injured, so that it had not been thought necessary to repair them 
in the few places where balls may be perceived to have struck. 
The bombardment was the chief annoyance of the garrison, who 
were not sheltered in caverns, and whose magazines, both of am- 
munition and provision, were frequently destroyed by it. Then- 
numbers were also greatly reduced by sallies and by engagements 
on the other side of the Rhine, in defence of Cassel, or in attack 
of part of an island called the Bleiau. 

We walked round the city upon what is termed the glacis, that 
is upon the slope which ascends from the plain towards the top of 
the ditch, and which is the furthest of the defensive works, being- 
very gradually raised, that those who are upon it may be exposed 
at every step to the fire from the walls. The forts which are 
formed of solid earthen works covered with turf, would scarcely 
attract the notice of an unmilitary eye, if the channelled passages 
to them did not issue from this slope, and if the sentinels stalking 
upon the parapets did not seem of a gigantic size, by having their 
whole figures raised against the light. 

Mentz was at this time the depot of stores for the Prussian army 
on the Rhine, and there were persons employed upon the glacis, 
in counting heaps of cannon-balls, which had been delivered from 
some neighbouring foundery. On the bank of the river, others 
were throwing wagon loads of hay into large barges, on which it 
was piled to such a height, that small passages were cut through 
it for the rowers to work in. There were nine or ten barges so 
filled; and in these labours more activity was apparent than in any 
other transaction we saw at Mentz. 

Having passed round the city, between the walls and the forts 
which protect them to the north-west and south, we came, at this 
latter side, to some other signals of a theatre of war. Here had 
been a noble alley of at least a mile and a half long, formed of 
poplars as large and high as elms, and surrounded on each side by 
plantations, intersected by small and irregular walks, Being led 
among the banks of the Rhine, this alley, with its adjoininggroves, 
afforded a most delightful promenade, and was classed amongst 
the best ornaments given to the river, in its whole course. This 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 435 

also was destroyed upon the approach of the besiegers, that it 
might not afford them shelter. The trunks of the sturdy trees, 
cut" at the height of one or two feet from the ground, show, by 
their solidity and the abundance of their vigorous shoots, how 
long they might have flourished, but for this disaster. 



SECTION CXXXIX. 

A general description of the African Negroes. 

AS to the complexion of a negro, it is, I am persuaded, en- 
tirely owing to the burning climate in which he lives, and an 
atmosphere still more heated by the sandy deserts, over which 
the trade-winds pass before they reach the habitable parts. The 
Indians of America, on the contrary, who indeed live under the 
same degree of latitude, have this wind refreshed by the Atlantic 
ocean, and are copper-coloured; and the inhabitants of Abyssinia, 
who receive it cooled by the Arabian and the Indian seas, are en- 
tirely olive. Thus north of the great river Senegal, the complex- 
ion changes from black to brown, amongst the Moors, as it does 
toward the south amongst the Caffrarians and the Hottentots; and 
I am of opinion, that the woolly texture of their hair, is an effect 
proceeding from the same cause. The epidermis or cuticle of the 
negroes, I have seen dissected more than once; it is clear and 
transparent, but between this and the real skin, lies a thin follicle, 
which is perfectly black, which being removed by severe flagella- 
tion, or by scaldings, exposes a complexion not inferior to that 
of an European. 

On the estate of T r ossenbergh, in Surinam, were born two 
ivhite negroes, whose parents were both perfectly black; the one 
was a female, sent to Paris in 1734; the other a boy, born in 
March 1738. And in 1794, a similar woman, Emelia Leiasam, 
was exhibited in England, whose children, (though she is married 
to an European,) are all mulattoes: the skin of these people is 
not of the European white, but more resembles chalk; their hair 
the same; their eyes are often red, and they see very little in the 
sun-shine; neither are they fit for any kind of labour; while their 
mental faculties, I have been told, usually correspond with the 
debility of their bodies. 

With respect to the shape of the African negroes, it is from 
head to foot certainly different from the European mould, though 
not, in my opinion, in any degree inferior, prejudice being laid 
aside. Their strong features, flat noses, thick lips, and high 
cheek bones, may appear deformities to us, and yet amongst them- 
selves, may be esteemed the reverse; their bright black eyes, and 
fine white teeth, we are forced to admire; and one decided advan- 
tage in a black complexion is, that, all those languid pale sickly- 



430 THE FLOWERS OF 

looking countenances, so common in Europe, are never exhibited 
among them, nor are the wrinkles and ravages of age equally con- 
spicuous; though I must confess, that when a negro is very ill, 
his black changes to a very disagreeable sallow olive. 

For exertion and activity, their shape is assuredly preferable to 
ours, being generally strong and muscular near the trunk, and 
slender towards the extremities; they have mostly a remarkable fine 
chest, but are small about the hips; their buttocks are more promi- 
nent, and their necks are thicker than ours; the thighs are strong, 
as also the arms above the elbow; but the wrists and lower part of 
the legs are very slender; and a good deal indeed of the Hercu- 
lean make of the late Broughton ihe pugilist, may be traced in 
the form of a vigorous negro. As to the crookedness of their 
limbs, it is to be accounted for by the manner in which they are 
carried whilst infants upon the mother's back, their tender legs 
being tied close round each side of her waist, which occasions lhat 
unnatural bent, with which they are not born: nor are their chil- 
dren ever taught to walk, but left to creep among the sand and 
grass, until they gradually acquire strength and inclination to erect 
themselves, which they do very soon; by this custom, however, 
the position of their feet is much neglected; yet by exercise, and 
daily bathing, they acquire that strength and agility, for which 
they are so remarkable. 

Another custom' which, in their opinion, conduces much to their 
health and vigour, is, that during the two years in which the 
mothers suckle their children, they frequently make them swallow 
large quantities of water, after which they shake them twice a-day, 
with much violence; they are then taken \>y a leg or an arm, and 
tossed into the river, to be well scoured outwardly; nor are the 
females exempt from the mode of rearing youth, which renders 
them not inferior to the men, in size alone excepted, while some 
in running, swimming, climbing, and dancing, as well as wrest- 
ling, are even their superiors: thus that it depends on education to 
form a race of Jlmazonian females, is a proposition of which I 
have very little doubt. 

Among the strange productions of nature, a species of people 
known by the name of Jlccorees, deserves to be particularly 
noticed. The Jiccorees or two-fingers, live amongst the Ser- 
amaca negroes, in the very upper parts of the river of that 
name. This heterogeneous tribe are so deformed in their hands 
and feet, that while some have three or four fingers and toes on 
each hand and foot, others have only two, which reseinble the 
claws of a lobster, or rather limbs that have been cured after mu- 
tilation by fire, or some other accident. This deformity in one 
person would cause but small- admiration; but that a whole com- 
munity should be afflicted with this singularity, is certainly a most 
wonderful phenomenon. Having seen but tivo myself, and that 
at too great a distance to take a drawing of them, I cannot pretend 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 437 

to vouch for the truth of what I have only heard; but an engraving 
of one of these figures was positively sent to the Society of Arts 
and Sciences at Haerlem; while I beg leave to introduce as a fur- 
ther voucher, the following extract from an old book of surgery 
and anatomy, procured me by the ingenious and learned Owen 
Cambridge, Esq. of Twickenham. 

" After Michaelmas term, in the year 1629, a body was brought 
from the place of execution, to the College of Physicians, to be 
cut up for an anatomy; and by chance the officer of the college 
brought the body of a cruel wretch, who had murdered the son 
of one Master Scott, a surgeon of good note in this city. This 
wretch wasavcry truculent countenance and aspect; his hair was 
black and curled, not very long, but thick and bushy; his forehead 
little above an inch high; his brows great and prominent; his eyes 
set deep in their sockets; his nose crooked, with around knob or but 
ton at the end, which also somewhat turned upwards; on his upper 
lip he had some quantity of black hair, on his chin very few, strag- 
gling, black and stiff: and his nether lip was as big as three other lips. 
Such was his face: but the greatest deformity was his feet, and 
that almost to admiration; for they were both cloven, but not alike. 
One foot was equally divided between four and five inches deep, 
into two toes, jointed like other men's toes, but as large each of 
them as half the foot couid make them, with nails proportionable. 
The left foot was divided likewise in the middle, but the division 
was not above three inches deep, or scarce so much; the one half, 
which was towards the body, made one large toe, with a nail pro- 
portionable, like the inward half of the right foot, but the out- 
ward half was compounded of two toes, yet growing close and 
fast together. This monstrous shape of a man, I have thought 
good to give this relation of, from certain knowledge, for there 
were a thousand witnesses of it present." 

Of the language spoken by the black people in Surinam, I con- 
sider myself a perfect master, it being a compound of Dutch, 
French, Spanish, Portuguese, and English. The latter they like 
best, and consequently use the most. It has been already ob- 
served, that the English were the first Europeans who possessed 
this colony; hence probably the predilection for that language, 
which they have still retained. In this mixed dialect, for which 
I have seen a printed grammar, the words end mostly with a 
vowel, like the Indian and Italian, and is so sweet ? so sonorous 
and soft, that the genteelest Europeans in Surinam, speak little 
else; it is also wonderfully expressive and sentimental, such as, 
"good eating, swee/y-muffo." — "Gunpowder, man sanny."— 
"I will love you with all my heart, so long as I live, Mee saloby 
you, langaalla meehatty, so langa me leeby." — "A pleasing 
tale, Jinanassy tory. — "I am very angry, Mehatty brun." 

Their vocal music is like that of the birds, melodious, but with- 
out time, and, in other respects, not unlike that ©f a clerk per- 



43$ THE FLOWERS Oi 

forming to the congregation, one person constantly pronouncing a 
sentence extempore, which he next hums or whistles, and then all 
the others repeat the same in chorus; another sentence is then 
spoken, and the chorus is a second time renewed. 

That these people are neither divested of a good ear nor poeti- 
cal genius has been frequently proved, when they have had 
the advantages of a good education. Amongst others, Phillis 
Wheatly, who was a slave at Boston in New England, learned 
the Latin language, and wrote thirty-eight elegant pieces of poe- 
try on different subjects, which were published in 1773. As a 
specimen, I cannot refrain here inserting the following extract 
from that, entitled, "Thoughts on Imagination. 

"Now here, now there, the roving fancy flies, 
''Till some lov'd object strikes her wand ring eyes, 
"Whose silken fetters all the senses bind, 
"And soft captivity invades the mind, 
"Imagination ! who can sing thy force? 
"Or where describe the swiftness of thy course? 
"Soaring through air to lind the bright'abode, 
"Th' imperial palace of the thundering God. 

"We on thy pinions can surpass the wind, 
''And leave the rolling universe behind. 
"From star to star, the*niental optics rove, 
"Measure the skies, and range the realms above; 
"There in one view we grasp the mighty whole, 
"Or with new worlds amaze th' unbounded soul." 

What can be more beautiful and sublime? 

Ignatius Sancho, a negro, many years servant to the duke of 
Montague, whose sentimental letters, so generally known, would 
not disgrace the pen of an European, may also be mentioned on 
this occasion; and with regard to their powers of memory and 
calculation, I shall only notice Thomas Fuller, a negro, the prop- 
erty of a Mrs. Cox, in Maryland, North America; and quote one 
singular anecdote, as it is related by Dr. Rush of Philadelphia. 
in a letter to a gentleman at Manchester. 

"Being travelling," says the Doctor, "with some other gen- 
tlemen of this city, through Maryland, and, having heard of the 
astonishing powers of memory, in arithmetical calculation, pos- 
sessed by Thomas Fuller, a negro, we sent for him; when one of 
the gentlemen in company asked him, how many seconds a man 
of seventy years, some odd months, weeks and days, had lived? 
He told the exact number in a minute and a half. When the gen- 
tleman who had asked the question took his pen. and having cal- 
culated the same by figures, told the negro he must be mistaken, 
as the number he had mentioned was certainly too great. — "Top 
Massera," said the negro, "you have omitted the leap years;" 
when having calculated the seconds contained in the number of 
leap years, and added them, the number was found exactly the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 439 

same as that calculated by the negro. This same man multiplied 
nine figures by nine, by memory, before another company." 
Another lately repeated the Alcoran from recollection only. What 
amazing mental faculties in African negroes, who could neither 
read nor write ! Yet that such things are, is well authenticated. 
If savage nations be commonly generous and faithful, they are 
not, however, without their dark shades; and among these, the 
most conspicuous is a proneness to anger and revenge.* I never 
knew a negro indeed forgive those who had wilfully offended him. 
The strength of this passion can only be equalled by their grati- 
tude; for, amongst them, it may be truly said, that 

"A generous friendship no cold medium knows, 
"Burns with one love, with one resentment glows.*' 

The conduct of the negroes, in the most trying situations, ap- 
proaches even to heroism; no negro sighs, groans, or complains, 
though expiring in the midst of surrounding flames. Nor do I 
remember, upon any occasion whatever, to have seen an African 
shed a tear, though they beg for mercy with the greatest earnest- 
ness when ordered to be flogged for offences which they are con- 
scious deserve to be punished; but if they think their punishment 
unmerited, immediate suicide is too often the fatal consequence, 
especially amongst the Coromantyn negroes, who frequently, dur- 
ing the act of flagellation, throw back their heads in the neck, 
and swalloiv their tongue, which chokes them on the spot, 
when they drop dead in the presence of their masters. But when 
negroes are sensible of having deserved correction, no people can 
be more humble, or bear their unhappy fate with greater resigna- 
tion; the swallowing of the tongue, which they only practice during 
the moments of severe discipline, has of late been prevented in 
Surinam by the humane method of holding a fire-brand to the 
victim's mouth, which answers a double purpose, of burning his 
face, and diverting his attention from the execution of his fatal 
determination. 

I have seen some instances of newly imported negroes refusing 
to work, nor could promises, threats, rewards, nor even blows 

* It is a well known fact, that a negro, having been ill-treated by the family in 
which he lived as a servant, one day took the following desperate revenge: — 
The master and misti-ess being from home, he, having locked all the doors, at 
their return presented himself with their three fine children on the platform on 
the top of the house When asked why he did not give admittance, he only 
answered by throwing an infant baby to the ground: they threatened — he tossed 
down the brother: — they intreated — but to no purpose, the third sharing the 
same fate, who all lay dead at their parent's feet — then calling out to them that 
he was now fully revenged, leaped down himself, and dashed out his own brains 
amongst the amazed snectators. Another stabbed the inoffensive husband to be 
revenged on the guilty wife; declaring, that to kill herseJf was only temporary, 
but to lose all that was dear to her, must be eternal bitterness, while to himself 
it was the sweetest satisfaction. 



440 THE FLOWERS OF 

prevail; but these had been princes or people of the lirst rank iu 
their native country, who by the casualties of war, had the mis- 
fortune to become slaves, and whose heroic sentiments still pre- 
ferred instant death to the baseness and miseries of servitude. 
Upon these occasions I have seen the other slaves fall upon their 
knees, and intreat their master to permit them to do the work re- 
quired, in addition to their own tasks; which being sometimes 
granted, they continued to show the same respect for the captive 
prince, that he had been accustomed to receive in his own country. 
I remember once to have had a remarkable good-looking new negro 
attend me, whose ankles and wrists being much galled by chains, 
I enquired the cause. "My father," said he, "was a kin^, and 
treacherouslv murdered by the sons of a neighbouring prince. 
To revenge his death, I daily went a hunting with some men, in 
hopes of retaliating upon his assassins; but I had the misfortune to 
be surprised, taken, and bound; hence these ignoble scars. I was 
aftewards sold to your European countrymen on the coast of 
Guinea — a punishment which was deemed greater than instant 
death." 

The history of Quaco, my black boy, was still more extraordi- 
nary: — "My parents," said he, "lived by hunting and fishing: 
I was stolen from them very young, whilst playing on the sands 
with two little brothers. I was put into a sack, and carried for sev- 
eral miles. 1 afterwards became the slave of a king on the coast 
of Guinea, with several hundreds more. — When our master died, 
the principal part of his slaves were beheaded and buried along 
- with him; I, with some other children of my age, were bestowed 
as presents to the different captains of his army; and the master of 
a Dutch ship afterwards had me, in exchange for a musket and 
some gun-powder." — Each loves his country best, if mild its laws, 
or rigid: 

"The naked negro punting' at the line, 
"Boasts of his golden sands and palmy wine; 
"Basks in the glare, or steins the tepid wave, 
"And thanks his God tor all the good they gave: — 
•'Such is the patriot's hoast where'er He roam, 
"His first best country ever is at home." 

No sooner do these wretched strangers begin to flag at their 
labour, than whips, cow-skins, bamboos, ropes, fetters, and chains 
are introduced, until they arc ready to sink under accumulated op- 
pression. With some masters their tasks can never be performed, 
as they must toil on, day and night, even Sundays not excepted. 
I recollect a strong } T oung negro, called Marquis, who had a wife 
fee loved, with two fine children; he laboured hard, and generally 
finished his task of digging a trench of five hundred feet, by four 
o'clock in the afternoon, that he might have some time to culti- 
vate his little garden, and go to fish or fowl to support his beloved 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 441 

family: hard did Marquis strive to earn this additional pittance, 
when his humane master, apprized of his industry, for his en- 
couragement, informed him, that if he could delve five hundred 
feet by four o'clock, he certainly could finish six hundred before 
sun-set; and this task the unfortunate young man was condemned 
from that day ever since to perform. 

In Surinam the slaves are kept nearly naked, and their daily 
food consists of little more than a few yams and plantains; per- 
haps twice a year they may receive a scanty allowance of salt-fish, 
with a few leaves of tobacco, which they call sweety -muff o, and 
this is all; but what is peculiarly provoking to them, is, that if a 
negro and his wife have ever so great an attachment for each other, 
the woman, if handsome, must yield to the loathsome embrace of 
an adulterous and licentious manager, or see her husband cut to 
pieces for endeavouring to prevent it. This, in frequent instances, 
has driven them to distraction, and been the cause of many mur- 
ders. Stedman's Surinam. 



SECTION CXL. 

Mr. Bruee at the Source of the Nile. 

AT last I arrived at the island of Green Turf, which was in the 
form of an altar, apparently the work of art, and stood in rapture 
over the principal fountain of the Xile, which rises in the middle 
of it. It is easier to guess than describe the situation of my mind 
at that moment — standing on that spot, which had baffled the ge- 
nius, industry, and inquiry of both ancients and moderns, for the 
space of near three thousand years. Kings had attempted this dis- 
covery at the head of armies, and each expedition was distinguish- 
ed from the last, only by the difference of the numbers which had 
perished, and agreed alone in the disappointment which had uni- 
formly, and without exception, followed them all. Fame, riches, 
and honour, had been held out for a series of ages to every indivi- 
dual of those myriads these princes commanded, without having 
produced one man capable of gratifying the curiosity of his sove- 
reign, or wiping off this stain upon the enterprize and abilities of 
mankind, or adding this desideratum for the encouragement of 
geography. 

The sources of the Nile have remained to our days as unknown 
as they were to antiquity, no good or genuine voucher having yet 
been produced capable of proving that they were before discovered, 
or seen by the curious eye of any traveller, from the earliest ages 
to this day; and it is with confidence, I propose to my reader, that 
he will consider me as still standing at these fountains, and pati- 
ently hear from me the recital of the origin and circumstances of 
this the most famous river in the world, which are not to be found 



442 THE FLOWERS OF 

in books, or from any other human authority whatever, and which, 
by the care and attention I have paid to the subject, will, I hope, 
be found satisfactory here. 

Divine honours are paid by the Agows of Damot to the Nile; 
they worship the river, and thousands of cattle have been offered, 
and still are offered, to the spirit supposed to reside at its source. 
They are divided into clans, or tribes; and it is worthy of obser- 
vation, that it is said there never was a feud, or hereditary ani- 
mosity between any two of those clans; or, if the seeds of any such 
were sown, they did not vegetate longer, than till the next gene- 
ral convocation of all the tribes, who meet annually at the source 
of the river, to which they sacrifice, calling it by the name of the 
God of Peace. One of the least considerable of these clans for 
power and number, has still the preference among its brethren, 
from the circumstance that, in its territory, and near the miserable 
village that gives it name, are situated the much sought for springs 
from which the Nile rises. 

Geesh, however, though not farther distant from these than 600 
yards, is not in sight of the sources of the Nile. The country, 
upon the same plane with the fountains, terminates in a cliff, about 
300 yards deep, down to the plain of Assoa, which flat country 
continues in the same subaltern degree of elevation, till it meets 
the Nile again about 70 miles southward, after it has made the cir- 
cuit of the provinces of Gojam and Damot. 

A prodigious cave is in the middle of this cliff, in a direction 
straight north towards the fountains, whether the work of nature 
or art I cannot determine: in it are many bye-paths so that it is 
very difficult for a stranger to extricate himself; it is a natural laby- 
rinth, large enough to contain the inhabitants of the village, and 
their cattle. In this large cliff, I tired myself part of several days, 
endeavouring to reach as far northward as possible; but the air. when 
I had advanced something above one hundred yards, threatened to 
extinguish my candle by its dampness, and, the people were besides 
not at all disposed to gratify my curiosity farther, after assuring 
me that there was nothing at the end more remarkable than what 
I then saw, which I had reason to believe was the case. The face 
of this cliff, which fronts to the south, lias a most picturesque ap- 
pearance from the plain of Assoa below, parts of the houses at ev- 
ery stage appearing through the thickets of trees and bushes with 
which the whole face of the cliff is thickly covered; impenetrable 
fences of the very worst kind of thorn hide the mouths of the cav-, 
erns above mentioned, even from sight; there is no other commu- 
nication with the houses, either from above or below, but by nar- 
row winding sheep paths, which through these thorns are very 
difficult to be discerned, for all are allowed to be overgrown with 
the utmost wildness, as a part of their defence; lofty and large 
trees, most of them of the thorny kind, tower high up above the 
edge of the cliff, and seem to be a fence against people falling down 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 443 

into the plain; these are all at their proper season covered with 
flowers of different sorts and colours, so are the bushes below on 
the face of the cliff; every thorn in Abyssinia indeed bears a beau- 
tiful flower. 

From the edge of the cliff of Geesh, above where the village is 
situated, the ground slopes with a very easy descent due north, 
and lands you at the edge of a triangular marsh, above eighty-six 
yards broad, in the line of the fountains, and two hundred and 
eighty-six yards two feet from the edge of the cliff above the house 
of the priest of the river, where I resided. 

Upon the rock, in the middle of the plain, the Agows used to 
pile up the bones of the beasts killed in sacrifice, mixing them 
with billets of wood, after which they set them on fire. This is 
now discontinued, or rather transferred to another place near the 
church, as they are at present indulged in the full enjoyment of 
their idolatrous rites, both under Fasil and Michael. In the mid- 
dle of the marsh, near the bottom of the mountain of Geesh, arises 
a hillock of a circular form; about three feet from the surface of 
the marsh itself, though apparently founded much deeper in it. 
The diameter of this is something short of twelve feet, it is sur- 
rounded by a shallow trench, which collects the water, and voids 
it eastward, it is firmly built with sod or earthern turf, brought 
from the sides, and constantly kept in repair, and this is the altar 
upon which all their religious ceremonies are performed. In the 
middle of this altar is a hole, obviously made, or at least enlarged, 
by the hand of man. It is kept clear of grass, or aquatic plants, 
and the water in it is perfectly pure and limpid, but has no ebulli- 
tion or motion of any kind discernible on the surface. This mouth, 
or opening of the source, is some parts of an inch less than three 
feet diameter, and the water stood at that time, the fifth of Nov- 
ember, about two inches from the lip or brim, nor did it either; 
increase or diminish during all the time of my stay at Geesh, though 
they made plentiful use of it. This spring is about six feet six 
inches deep. 

At the distance of ten feet from the first of these springs, a little 
to the west of south, is the second fountain, about eleven inches 
in diameter; but this is eight feet three inches deep. And about 
twenty feet distant from the first, is the third source, its mouth 
being something more than two feet large, and it is five feet eight 
inches deep. Both these last fountains stand in the middle of small 
altars, made, like the former, of firm sod, but neither of them 
above three feet diameter, and having a foot of less elevation than 
the first. The altar in this third source seemed almost dissolved 
by the water, which in both stood nearly up to the brim; at the 
foot of each appeared a clear and brisk running rill; these uniting, 
joined the water in the trench of the first altar, and then proceed- 
ed directly out, pointing eastward, in a quantity that would have 
filled a pipe, of about two inches diameter. The water from these 



444 THE FLOWERS Oi' 

fountains is very light and good, and perfectly tasteless; it was at 
this time most intensely cold, though exposed to the mid-day with- 
out shelter, there being no trees nor bushes nearer it than the cliff 
of Geesh on its south side, and the trees that surround St. Michael 
Geesh on the north, which, according to the custom of Abyssinia, 
is, like other churches, planted in the midst of a grove. 

On the fifth of November, the day after my arrival at Geesh, 
the weather perfectly clear, cloudless, and nearly calm, in all re- 
spects well adapted to observation, being extremely anxious to 
ascertain, beyond the power of controversy, the precise spot on 
the globe that this fountain had so long occupied unknown, I pitch- 
ed my tent on the north edge of the cliff, immediately above the 
priest's house, having verified the instrument with all the care 
possible, both at the zenith and the horizon. With a brass quad- 
rant of three feet radius, by one meridian altitude of the sun's up- 
per limb, all necessary equations and deductions considered, I de- 
termined the latitude of the place of observation to be 10 deg. 
59 min. and 11 sec. and by another observation of the same kind, 
made on the sixth, 10 deg. 59 min. 8 sec. after which, by a me- 
dium of thirty-three observation of stars, the largest and nearest, 
the first vertical, I found the latitude to be 10 deg. 59 min. 10 sec. 
a mean of which being 10 deg. 59 min. 9£ sec. say 10 deg. 59 min. 
10 sec. The longitude I ascertained to be 36 deg. 55 min. 30 sec. 
east of the meridian of Greenwich. 

On the night of the fourth, the very night of my arrival, melan- 
choly reflections upon my present state, the doubtfulness of my 
return in safety, were I permitted to make the attempt, and the 
fears that even this would be refused, according. to the rule observ- 
ed in Abyssinia with all travellers who have once entered the 
kingdom; the consciousness of the pain that I was then occasioning 
to many worthy individuals, expecting daily that information con- 
cerning my situation which it was not in my power to give them; 
some other thoughts, perhaps, still nearer the heart than those, 
crowded upon my mind, and forbade all approach of sleep. I was, 
at that very moment, in possession of what had, for many years, 
been the principal object of my ambition and wishes: indifference 
which, from the usual infirmity of human nature, follows, at least 
for a time, complete enjoyment, had taken place of it. The marsh, 
and the fountains, upon comparison with the rise of many of our 
rivers, became now a trifling object in my sight. I remembered 
that magnificent scene in my own native country, where the Tweed, 
Clyde, and Annan rise in one hill; three rivers, as now I thought, 
not inferior to the Nile in beauty, preferable to it in the cultivation of 
those countries through which they flow; superior, vastly superior 
to it in the virtues and qualities of the inhabitants, and in the beauty 
of its flocks, crowding its pastures in peace, without fear of vio- 
lence from man or beast. I had seen the rise of the Rhine and the 
Rhonft, and the more magnificent sources of the Soane; I began, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 445 

in my sorrow, to treat the inquiry about the source of the Nile as 
a violent effort of a distempered fancy. Grief or despondency now 
rolling upon me like a torrent; relaxed, not refreshed, by unquiet 
and imperfect sleep, I started from my bed in the utmost agony; I 
went to the door of my tent; every thing was still; the Nile, at 
whose head I stood, was not capable either to promote or to inter- 
rupt my slumbers, but the coolness and serenity of the night braced 
my nerves, and chaced away those phantoms, that while in bed, 
had oppressed and tormented me. 

Numerous dangers, hardships, and sorrows, had indeed beset 
me through this half of my excursion; but it was still as true, that 
another guide, more powerful than my own courage, health, or 
understanding, if any of these can be called man's own, had uni- 
formly protected me in all that tedious half; I found my confidence 
not abated, that still the same guide was able to conduct me to my 
now wished for home. 1 immediately resumed my former forti- 
tude, considered the Nile, indeed, as no more than rising from 
springs, as all other rivers do, but widely different in this, that it 
was the palm for three thousand years held out to all the nations 
in the world as a detur dignissimo, which, in my cool hours I 
had thought was worth the attempting at the risk of my life, which 
I had long either resolved to lose, or lay this discovery, a tiophy 
in which I could have no competitor, for the honour of my coun- 
try, at the feet of my sovereign, whose servant I am. 

I had procured from the English ships, while at Jidda, some 
quicksilver, perfectly pure, and heavier than the common sort; 
warming, therefore, the tube gently at the fire, I filled it with 
this quicksilver, and, to my great surprise, found that it stood at 
the height of twenty-two English inches. Suspecting that some 
air might have insinuated itself into the tube, I laid it by in a warm 
part of the tent, covered till morning, and returning to bed, slept 
there profoundly till six, when, satisfied the whole was in perfect 
order, I found it to stand at 22 English inches; neither did it vary 
sensibly from that height any of the following days I staid at Geesh; 
and thence, I inferred, that, at the sources of the Nile, I was 
then more than two miles above the level of the sea; a prodigious 
height, to enjoy a sky perpetually clear, as also a hot sun never 
overcast for a moment, with clouds, from rising to setting. On 
the sixth of November, at a quarter past five in the morning, Fah- 
renheit's thermometer stood at 44 degrees, at noon 96 degrees, 
and at sun set 46 degrees. It was, as to sense, cold at night, and 
still more so an hour before sun rise. 

The Nile, keeping nearly in the middle of the marsh, runs east 
for thirty yards, with a very little increase of stream, but perfectly 
visible, till met by the grassy brink of the land declining from Sa- 
cala. This turns it round gradually to the north-east, and then due 
north; and, in the two miles it flows in that direction, the river 
receives many small contributions from springs that rise in the 
56 



4j46 THE FLOWERS OP 

banks on each side of it: there are two, particularly one on the 
hill at the back of St. Michael Geesh, the other a little lower on 
the other side, on the ground declining from Sacala. These last 
mentioned springs are more than double its quantity: and being 
arrived on the hill whereon stands the church of St. Michael Sa- 
cala, about two miles from its source, it there becomes a stream 
that would turn a common mill, shallow, clear, and running over 
a rocky bottom about three yards wide: this must be understood 
to be variable according to the season; and the present observations 
are applicable to the fifth of November, when the rains had ceased 
for several weeks. 

Nothing can be more beautiful than this spot: the small rising 
hills about them were all thickly covered with verdure, especially 
with clover: the largest and finest I ever saw; the tops of the 
heights crowned with trees of a prodigious size; the stream, at 
the banks of which we were sitting, was limpid and pure as the 
finest crystal; the ford, covered thick with a bush) 7 kind of tree 
that seemed to affect to grow to no height, but thick with foliage 
and young branches, rather to court the surface of the water, whilst 
it bore, in prodigious quantities, a beautiful yellow flower, not 
unlike a single wild rose of that colour, but without thorns. 

After having stepped over the ford fifty times, I observed it no 
larger than a common mill stream. The Nile, from this ford, 
turns to the westward, and after running over loose stones occasi- 
onally, in that direction, about four miles farther, the angle of in- 
clination increasing greatly, broken water, and a fall commences, 
of about six feet, and thus it gets rid of the mountainous place of 
its nativity, and issues into the plain of Goutto, where is its first 
cataract. Arrived in the plain of Guotto, the river seems to have 
lost all its violence, and scarcely is seen to flow; but, at the same 
time, it there makes so many sharp, unnatural windings, that it 
differs from any other river I ever saw, making about twenty shaip 
angular peninsulas in the coursQ of five miles, through a bare, 
marshy plain of clay, quite destitute of trees, and exceedingly in- 
convenient and unpleasant to travel. After passing this plain, it 
turns due north, receives the tribute of man)* small streams, the 
Gometti, the Googueri, and the Kebczza, which descend from the 
mountains of Aformasha; and, united, fall into the Nile about 
twenty miles below its source; it begins here to run rapidly, and 
again receives a number of beautiful rivulets, which have their rise 
in the heights of Litchambara; the semicircular range of mountains 
that pass behind, and seem to inclose Aformasha. Here it begins 
to become a considerable stream; its banks high and broken, cover- 
ed with old timber trees for the space of about three miles; it in- 
clines to the north-east, and winds exceedingly, and is then joined 
by the small river Diwah from the east. As the mere names of 
places through which the Nile passes, can afford very little amuse- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 447 

raient to my readers, I shall only observe, that it empties itself at 
last into the Mediterranean. 

Before I proceed to investigate the reason of the inundations of 
the Nile, I shall remark, that it is an observation, which holds 
good through all the works of Providence, that although God, in 
the beginning, gave an instance of his almighty power, by creat- 
ing the world with one single fiat- yet, in the law which he has 
laid down for maintaining order and regularity in the details of his 
creation, he has invariably produced all these effects by the least 
degree of power possible, and by those means that seem most ob- 
vious to human conception. It seemed, however, not according 
to the tenor of his ways and wisdom, to create a country like Egypt, 
without springs, or even dews, and subject it to a nearly vertical 
sun, that Jie might save it by so extraordinary an intervention as 
is the annual inundation, and make it the most fertile spot of the 
universe. 

Whatever were the conjectures of the dreamers of antiquity, 
modern travellers and philosophers, describing without system or 
prejudice what their eye saw, have found that the inundation of 
Egypt has been effected by natural means, perfectly consonant 
with the ordinary rules of Providence, and the laws given for the 
government of the rest of the universe. They have found that the 
plentiful fall of the tropical rains produced every year at the same 
time, by the action of a violent sun, has been uniformly, without 
miracle, the cause of Egypt's being regularly overflowed. The 
sun being nearly stationary for some days in the tropic of Capri- 
corn, the air there becomes so much rarified, that the heavier winds, 
charged with watery particles, rush in upon it from the Atlantic 
on the west, and from the Indian ocean on the east, TllC ?? ,Jl ^l 
wind, moreover, loaded w*ith heavy vapOQfs, condensed in that 
high ridge of mountains not far south of the line, which forms a 
spine to the peninsula of Africa, and, running northward with the 
other two, furnish wherewithal to restore the equilibrium. 

The sun, having thus gathered such a quantity of vapours as it 
were to a focus, now puts them in motion, and drawing them after 
it in its rapid progress northward, on the seventh of Januar)^, for 
two jrears together, seemed to have extended its power to the at- 
mosphere of Gondar, when, for the first time, there appeared in 
the sky, white, dappled thin clouds, the sun being then distant 
34 degrees from the zenith, without any one cloudy or dark speck 
having been seen for several months before. Advancing to the line 
with increased velocity, and describing larger spirals, the sun brings 
on a few drops of rain at Gondar, the first of March, being then 
distant 5 degress from the zenith; these are greefdily absorbed by 
the thirsty soil, and this seems to be the farthest extent of the sun's 
influence, capable of causing rain, which then only falls in large 
drops, and lasts but a few minutes: the rainy season, however, 
begins most seriously upon its arrival at the zenith of every place, 



44S THE FLOWERS OF 

and these rains continue constant and increasing after he has passed 
it, in his progress northward. Before this, green boughs and 
leaves appear floating in the Bahar el Abiad, and show that, in the 
latitude where it rises, the rains are already abundant. The Gal- 
la, who inhabit, or have passed that river, give an account of its 
situation, which lies, as far as I could ever calculate, about 5 de- 
grees from the line. 

In April, all the rivers in Amhara, Begemder, and Lasta, first 
discolored, and then beginning to swell, join the Nile in the sev- 
eral parts of its course nearest them: the river then, from the height 
of its angle of inclination, forces itself through the stagnant lake 
without mixing with it. In the beginning of May, hundreds of 
streams pour themselves from Gojam, Damot, Maitsha, and Dem- 
bea, into the lake Tzana, which had become low by intense eva- 
poration, but now begins to fill insensibly, and contributes a large 
quantity of water to the Nile, before it falls down the cataract of 
Alata. In the beginning of June, the sun having passed all Abys- 
sinia, the rivers there are all full, and then is the time of the great- 
est rains in Abyssinia, while it is for some days, as it were, sta- 
tionary in the trOpic of Cancer, 

Bruce's Travfls. 



SECTION CXLI. 

Canton — Population of China — Chinese Language. 

THE city and suburbs of Canton are situated mostly on the east- 
ern bank of the Pe-kiang river. The embassy was lodged on the 
opposite side. Its quarters consisted of separate buildings suffici- 
ently spacious and convenient. Some of them were fitted up in 
the English manner, with glass windows and fire-grates. The use 
of the latter, was then found in the winter solstice, to be very com- 
fortable, though in a situation bordering upon the tropic. A large 
garden with ponds and parterres surrounding the building. On 
one side of them was a temple, and on the other a high edifice, 
the Lop of which commanded a view of the river and shipping, as 
well as of the city and country to a considerable distance. 

Canton, like a sea port or a frontier town, bears many»marks of 
the mixture of foreigners with natives. The handsome factories 
of the different nations of Europe trading to it, situated in a line 
along the river, outside of the walls of the city, each with its na- 
tional flag flying over it, contrast with the Chinese building; and 
are an ornament to the whole. The numbers of strangers to be 
seen in the suburbs, while their ships are unloading and loading in 
the river; their various languages, dresses, and characteristic de- 
portment, would leave it almost a doubt, if a judgment were to 
be formed from that part of the town, to what nation it belonged, 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 449 

Though the exports of Canton consist of many articles; their 
comparative importance is almost absorbed in that of tea. The 
agents of other European nations, taken collectively, purchased 
much greater quantities of that commodity formerly than the 
English. It did not, however, escape the observation of several 
of the directors of the English East India company, that much 
the greater proportion of the teas so brought to Europe on foreign 
bottoms, was afterwards smuggled into England, in consequence 
of the temptation afforded by the high duties imposed upon that 
article by the British parliament. Teas were found not only to 
constitute the principal article that was smuggled into the kingdom, 
but occasioned and facilitated the like clandestine importation of 
other goods. With regard to population, there seems to be no 
other bounds put to it, than those which may be occasioned by 
the~neeessity of subsistance. These boundaries are certainly more 
enlarged than in other countries. The whole surface of the em- 
pire is, with trifling exceptions, dedicated to the production of 
food for man alone. There is no meadow, and very little pasture, 
nor are fields cultivated in oats, beans, or turnips, for the support of 
cattle of any kind. Few parks or pleasure-grounds are seen, ex- 
cepting those belonging to the emperor. Little land is taken up 
for roads, which are few and narrow, the chief communication be- 
ing by water. There are no commons; or lands suffered to be 
waste by the neglect,- or the caprice, or for the sport of great pro- 
prietors. No arable land lies fallow. The soil, under a hot and 
fertilizing sun, yields annually, in most instances, double crops, 
in consequence of adapting the culture to the soil; and of sup- 
plying its defects by mixture with other earths, by manure, by 
irrigation, by careful and judicious industry of every kind. The 
labour of man is little diverted from that industry, to minister to 
the luxuries of the opulent and powerful, or in employments of no 
real use. Even the soldiers of the Chinese army, except during 
the short intervals of the guards which they are called to rnounr, 
or the exercises, or other occasional services which they perform, 
are mostly employed in agriculture. The quantity of subsistance 
is increased also, by. converting more species of animals and veg- 
etables to that purpose than is usual in other countries. And 
even in the preparation of their food, the Chinese haveeconomy 
and management. 

From a consideration of the influence of those causes, it will 
not perhaps appear surprising, that it should be asserted, that every 
square mile in China, contains upon an average, about one-third 
jnore inhabitants, being upwards of three hundred, than are found 
upon an equal quantity of land, also upon an average, in the 
most populous country in Europe. Instances indeed are recorded 
of a still greater population than either, in one of the West In- 
dia islands. 



450' THE FLOWERS OF 

Chow-ta-Zin, a man of business and precision, eautious in ad- 
vancing facts, and proceeding generally upon official documents, 
delivered at the request of the ambassador, a statement to him, 
taken from one of the public offices in the capital, and printed in 
the appendix to this work, of the inhabitants of the fifteen ancient 
provinces of China. They amount to the amazing number of 333 
millions, of which the province of Canton contains 21 millions. 
The extent of the provinces is ascertained by astronomical observa- 
tions, as well as by admeasurements; and they are found to contain 
upwards of twelve hundred thousand square miles, or about eight 
times the size of France. The number of individuals is regu- 
larly taken in each division of a district by a tithing-man, or every 
tenth master of a family. Those returns are collected by officers 
resident so near as to be capable of correcting any gross mistake; 
and all the returns are lodged in the great register at Pekin. 
Though the general statement is strictly the result of those returns 
added to each other, which seem little liable to error, or, taken 
separately, to doubt, yet the amount of the whole is so prodigious 
as to stagger belief. Even in calculations altogether certain, but 
immense in their results, such, for example, as the evaluation of 
the enormous bulk, or distance of the fixed stars, it requires a 
mind conversant in such subjects, or at least habituated to such as- 
sertions, to remove all doubt concerning them. After every reason- 
able allowance, however, for occasional mistakes, and partial 
exaggerations in the returns of Chinese population, the ultimate 
result exhibits to the mind a grand and curious spectacle of so 
large a proportion of the whole human race, connected together 
in one great system of polity, submitting quietly, and through 
so considerable an extent of country, to one great sovereign; and 
uniform in -their laws, their manners, and their language; but dif- 
fering essential^ in each of these respects, from every other por- 
tion of mankind; and neither desirous of communication with, not- 
forming any designs against the rest of the world. 

With regard to language, the sounds of several letters in most 
alphabets, such as B, D, R, and X, are utterly unknown in the 
Chinese tongue. The organs of speech in a native of China, are 
not in the habit of pronouncing them. In endeavouring to utter 
one of these, another, to which the same organ has been habituated, 
is generally sounded: instead of the letter R, the liquid L is usu- 
ally pronounced by a Chinese; who thus occasionally falls into 
ridiculous mistakes. A Chinese dealer in rice, for example, is 
sometimes heard to offer for sale what few persons would be dis- 
posed to purchase. 

The learner of Chinese is not puzzled with any minute rules 
of grammar, conjugation, or declension. There is no necessity 
of distinguishing substantives, adjectives, or verbs: nor any accor- 
dance of gender, number, and case, in a Chinese sentence. That 
language furnishes, intleed, a practical proof, that the laborious 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 4J1 

structure, and intricate machinery of the Greek and Arabic 
tongues, are by no means necessary, either for a complete commu- 
nication on all the business of life, or even to the grace of elocu- 
tion, or to the harmony of verse. The beginning or end of words 
is not altered, as it is in the Greek verb alone, in above one thous- 
and instances, by the times of performing the action meant to be 
expressed, or the cases in which the things mentioned are intended 
to be placed. A very few particles denote the past, the present, 
and the future; nor are those auxiliaries employed when the in- 
tended time may be otherwise inferred with certainty. A Chinese 
who means to declare his intention of departing to-morrow, never 
says that he will depart to-morrow; because the expression of the 
morrow is sufficient to ascertain that his departure must be future. 
The plural number is marked by the addition of a word, without 
which the singular always is implied. Neither the memory, nor 
the organs of speech are burdened with the pronunciation of more 
sounds to express ideas, than are absolutely necessary to mark their 
difference. The language is entirely monosyllabic. A single 
syllable always expresses a complete idea. Each syllable may be 
sounded by an European consonant preceding a vowel, sometimes 
followed by a liquid. Such an order of words prevents the harsh- 
ness of succeeding consonants sounding ill together; and renders 
the language as soft and harmonious as the Italian is felt to be, 
from the rarity of consonants, and the frequency of its vowel ter- 
minations. 

The formation of Chinese sentences, is often the simplest and 
most artless possible, and such as may naturally have occurred at 
the origin of society. To interrogate, for example, is often, at 
least, to require the solution of .a question, whether the subject of 
doubt be in a particular way, or the contrary; and accordingly, a 
Chinese inquiring about his friend's health, will sometimes say, 
hou, poo hou? The literal meaning of which words is, "well, 
not well?" A simple character, repeated, stands sometimes for 
more than one of the objects, which, singly, it denotes; and some- 
times for a collective quantity of the same thing. The character 
of moo, singly, is a tree; repeated, is a thicket; and tripled, is a 
forest. 

In Chinese, there are scarcely fifteen hundred distinct sounds. 
In the written language, there are at least eighty thousand charac- 
ters, or different forms of letters; which number, divided by the 
first, gives nearly fifty senses, or characters, upon an average, to 
every sound expressed: a disproportion, however, that gives more 
the appearance, than the reality, of equivocation and uncertainty 
to the oral language of the Chinese. Johnson's English Diction- 
ary affords instances of words taken in upwards of one hundred 
different senses, without any doubt being thereby felt in English 
conversation; where, indeed, if they were, no resource can be had 
for ascertaining its precise sense, as in the Chinese, to the form of 



452 THE FLOWERS OF 

the written character peculiar to each sense in which the word it 
received. 

The number of words in any language, or at least of senses in 
which each word is understood, must depend chiefly on the state of 
civilization to which the people that use it are arrived; and in some 
degree also on the population of the country, and on the arts 
flourishing among them. It is not surprising, therefore, that the 
Chinese dictionary should contain, at least, eighty thousand char- 
acters. Perhaps, if every sense in which an English term is 
sometimes received, were considered as a distinct word, and the 
vast variety of those employed in the different arts and occupa- 
tions of life, were taken into the account, the number would not 
be much fewer than those of the Chinese. 

The characters of the Chinese language were originally traced, 
in most instances, with a view to express either real images, or 
the allegorical signs of idea; a circle, for example, for the sun, 
and a crescent for the moon. A man was represented by an erect 
figure, with lines to mark the extremities. It was evident that 
the difficulty and tediousness of imitation, will have occasioned 
soon a change to traits more simple, and more quickly traced. 
Of the entire figure of a man, little more than the lower extremi- 
ties only continue to be drawn, by two lines forming an angle with 
each other. A faint resemblance, in some few instances, still re- 
mains of the original forms in the present hieroglyphic characters; 
and the gradation of their changes is traced in several Chinese 
books. Not above half a dozen of the present characters consist 
each of a single line; but most of them consist of many, and a 
few of so many as seventy different strokes. 

The composition of many of the Chinese characters often dis- 
plays considerable ingenuity; and serves also to give an insight 
into the opinions and manners of the people. The character ex- 
pressive of happiness includes abridged marks of land, the source 
of their physical, and of children, that of their moral enjoyments. 
This character embellished in a variety of ways,, is hung up almost 
in every house. Sometimes written by the hand of the emperor, 
it is sent by him as a compliment, which is very highly prized: 
and such as he was pleased to send to the ambassador. 



SECTION CXLII. 

Description of a Group of Negroes, as imported to be sold 

for Slaves. 

AS I was one day taking the air for my health, I stopped the 
carriage at the water-side, to behold a group of human beings, 
who had strongly attracted my attention. This group I shall cir- 
cumstantially endeavour to describe. They were a drove of newly 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 453 

imported negroes, men and women, with a few children, who 
were just landed from on board a Guinea ship that lay at anchor in 
the roads, to be sold for slaves. The whole party was such a set 
of scarcely animated automatons, such a resurrection of skin and 
bones, as forcibly reminded me of the last trumpet. These ob- 
jects appeared that moment to be risen from the grave, or escaped 
from surgeons' hall; and I confess, I can give no better description 
of them, than by comparing them to walking skeletons covered over 
with a piece of tanned leather. 

The words of the prophet immediately occurred to my mind. 
"And tho-Lord caused me to pass by them round about, and be- 
hold there were many in the open valley, and lo they were very 
dry. And he said unto me,. Son of Man, can these bones live? 
And I answered, O Lord God, thou knowest."* 

Before these wretches, who might be in all about sixty in 
number, walked a sailor, and another followed behind with a 
bamboo-rattan; the one serving as a shepherd to lead them along, 
and the other as his dog to worry them occasionally, should any 
one lag behind, or wander away from the flock. At the same 
time, however, equity demands the acknowledgment, that instead 
of all those horrid and dejected countenances which are described 
in pamplets and newspapers, I perceived not one single downcast 
look among them all; and I must add, that the punishment of the 
bamboo was inflicted with the utmost moderation by the sailor who 
brought up the rear. 

Having viewed this sad assemblage of my fellow-creatures with 
amazement, I drove home to my lodgings in a state of perfect 
humiliation; where I noted down, as I could learn it from the 
best authority, both white and black, what is really the fate of 
these people, from the last moment of their liberty in Africa, to 
the pre?ent period of their slavery in America. 

From what I have learned by inquiry, from persons well- 
informed on the subject, it clearly appears, that numbers of the" 
negroes offered for sale, have been taken in battles, and made pris- 
oners of war; while many others have been scandalously kidnap- 
ped, and some others transported for offences. These groups of 
people are marched from every inland part, to the factories erected 
by different nations upon the coast, where they are sold, or, more 
properly speaking, bartered, like the other productions of their 
country, viz. gold, elephants' teeth, &c. to the Europeans, for 
bars of iron, fire-arms, carpenters' tool-chests, linens, hats, knives, 
glasses, tobacco, spirits, &c. Next they are embarked for expoiv 
tation, during which time they, without contradiction, feel all the 
pangs that mental or corporeal misery can inflict. Being torn 
from their country and dearest connexions, stowed hundreds to- 
gether in a dark stinking hold, the sexes being separated; while 

* tffcfeffcfeV^X'xvy, ver. 2, 3. 
57 



454 THE FLOWERS OF 

the men are kepi in chains to prevent an insurrection. In this 
manner are they floated over turbulent seas, not certain what is to 
be their destiny, and generally fed during the passage with horse- 
beans and oil for their whole subsistence. But these sufferings 
are often alleviated with better food by the more humane: so far, 
that none or few of the cargo die during the passage, and the 
whole crew arrive healthy in the West Indies. I even remember 
one instance, where the captain, mate, and most of the sailors, 
having expired at sea, so that the remaining few could not work 
the ship without the negroes' assistance, yet these last, having 
been well treated, helped at last to run the vessel on shore, by 
which means they not only saved many lives, but tamely and even 
cheerfully allowed themselves to be fetched and sold to any person 
who would please to buy them. Having made these reflections, 
I shall now briefly proceed with the manner in which the slaves 
are disposed of. 

No sooner is a Guinea ship arrived, than all the slaves are led 
upon deck, where they are refreshed with pure air, plantains, 
bananas, oranges, &c. and being properly cleaned, washed, and 
their hair shaved in different figures of stars, half-moons, &c. 
which they generally do the one to the other, Shaving no razors,) by 
the help of a broken bottle and without soap. After this opera- 
tion, one part of them is sent ashore for sale, d corated with 
pieces of cotton to serve as fig-leaves, arm-bands, beads, &c. being 
all the captain's property; while the others spend the day in danc- 
ing, hallooing, and clapping hands on board the vessel. 

Having sufficiently described their figures after landing, we 
now may suppose them walking along the water-side, and through 
the streets, where every planter picks out that number which he 
stands in need of, to supply those lost by death or desertion, and 
begins to make a bargain with the captain. Good negroes are 
generally valued at from fifty to a hundred pounds each. Amongst 
these, should a woman chance to be pregnant, her price is aug- 
mented accordingly, for which reason, I have known the captain of 
a Dutch Guinea vessel, who acknowledged himself to be the father, 
take advantage, with a brutality scarcely credited in the storv 
of Inkle and Yarico, of doubling the value, by selling hi- own 
offspring to the best bidder; for which, however, he was highly 
censured by his companions. 

The next circumstance that takes place before the bargain is 
struck, is to cause the negroes for sale, one after another, to mount 
on a hogshead or a table, where they are visited by a surgeon, who 
obliges them to make all the different gestures, with arms and 
legs, of a merry-andrew upon the stage, to prove their soundness 
or unsoundness; after which they are adopted by the buyer, or re- 
jected, as he finds them fit for his purpose, or otherwise. If he 
keeps them, the money is paid down; and the new bought negroes 
are immediately branded on the breast or the thick part of the 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 455 

shoulder, by a stamp made of silver, with the initial letters of the 
new master's name, as we mark furniture or any thing else to au- 
thenticate them properly. These hot letters, which are about the 
size of a six-pence, occasion not that pain which may be imagined, 
and the blisters being rubbed directly with a little fresh butter, are 
perfectly well in the space of two or three days. No sooner is 
this ceremony over and a new name given to the newly bought 
slave, than lie or she is delivered to an old one of the same sex, 
and sent to the estate, where each is properly kept clean by his 
guardian, instructed and well fed, without working for the space 
of six weeks; during which period, from living skeletons, they 
become, plump and fat, with a beautiful clean skin, till it is dis- 
figured by the inhuman flogging of some rascally proprietor, or 
rather his overseer. 

Stedman's Surinam. 



SECTION CXLIIL 

Wonderful Sagacity in Wild Bees. 

I WAS one morning visited by a neighbouring gentleman, 
whom I conducted up my ladder to my apartment; but he had no 
sooner entered my aerial dwelling, than he leapt down from the 
top to the ground, roaring like a madman with agony and pain, 
after which he instantly plunged his head into the river; but 
looking up, I soon discovered the cause of his distress to be an 
enormous nest of wild bees, or tvassee-wassee, in the thatch, di- 
rectly above my head, as I stood within my door; when I imme- 
diately took to my heels as he had done, and ordered them to be 
demolished by my slaves without delay. A tar mop was now 
brought and the devastation just going to commence, when an old 
negro stepped up, and offered to receive any punishment I should 
decree, if ever one of these bees should sting me in person. 
"Massera," said he, "they would have stung you ere now had 
you been a stranger to them; but they being your tenants, that is, 
gradually allowed to build upon your prentised, they assuredly 
know both you and your's, and will never hurt either you or 
them." I instantly assented to the proposition, and tying the old 
black man to the tree, ordered my boy Quaco to ascend the ladder 
quite naked, which he did, and was not stung; I then ventured 
to follow, and I declare, upon my honour, that even after shaking 
the nest, which made its inhabitants buzz about my ears, not a 
single bee attempted to sting me. I next released the old negro, 
and rewarded him with a gallon of rum and five shillings for the 
discovery. — This swarm of bees I since kept unhurt, a3 my body- 
guards, and they have made many overseers take a desperate leap 
for my amusement, as I generally sent them up my ladder upon 



456 THE FJLOWEKS OF 

some frivolous message, when I wished to punish them lor injus- 
tice and cruelty, which was not seldom. 

The above negro assured me, that on his master's estate was an 
ancient tree, in which had been lodged, ever since he couhl remem- 
ber, a society of birds, and another of bees, who lived in the greatest 
harmony together; but should any strange birds come to disturb 
or feed upon the bees, they were instantly repulsed by their feath- 
ered allies, and if strange bees dared to venture near the birds 
nests, the native swarm attacked the invaders, and stung them to 
death: that his master and family had so much respect for the 
above association, that the tree was considered as sacred, and was 
not to be touched by an axe until it should yield to all-destroying 
time. Stedman. 

SECTION CXLIV. 

Of the Original Inhabitants of (he Brazils — Cochineal 

Insect. 

THE original inhabitants of the Brazils, were found not to be 
reducible to a state of slavery, or even to the domestic habits of 
civilized society. Children of some of those Brazillians had been 
taken into Portuguese families, and uncommon pains bestowed 
upon their education, out of motives of speculative curiosit)', as 
well as those of benevolence and humanity; but so intractable, it 
is said, their nature proved, that they constantly returned to their 
original habits of savage life, without retaining any of the princi- 
ples which might restrain their passions, or caprices. These peo- 
ple, though poor, seldom offered themselves for hire, and were as 
seldom covetted by the Portuguese, excepting for rowing boats, 
in which they were remarkably expert. In their persons they 
generally were somewhat under the middle size, muscular, stout, 
and active, of a light brown complexion, black, strong, uncurling 
hair, with very little beard, and long dark eyes, which discovered 
no mark of imbecility of intellect! nor did the turn of their fea- 
tures convey any character of meanness or vulgarity; but, on the 
contrary, their looks and expression were intelligent and distinct. 
They seemed to finer an irresistible charm in the enjoyment of 
boundless freedom; and nourishing, probably, an hereditary and 
implacable antipathy to the invaders of their country, they shun 
and withdraw from the considerable settlements of the Portuguese; 
but massacre individuals, without remorse, wherever they are found 
scattered or unprotected. Much of the coast between Rio and 
Bahia was still inhabited or frequented by them, which circum- 
stance prevented any regular communication by land, between 
those two places. 

The profit to the Portuguese at Rio, from the cochineal, is in- 
considerable owing to an error in the preparation. Twice or thrice 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 457 

a week, the slaves appropriated to this employment, go among the 
cactus plants, and pick off carefully, with a bamboo twig, shaped 
somewhat into the form of a pen, every full-grown insect, they 
can find, with many not yet arrived to their perfect state; the con- 
sequence of which is, that the plants are never half stocked with 
insects, many of the females being destroyed before they had de- 
posited their young. The natives of Mexico pursue a method 
very different. As soon as the periodical rains are over, and the 
weal her is warmer as well as dryer, they fix, on the prickles of 
the cactus leaves, small parcels of the finest moss, serving as nests 
to contain, each, ten or a dozen full-grown female insects. These 
in the course of a few days, bring forth an innumerable tribe of 
young, spreading themselves over the leaves and branches of the 
plant, till they become attached to those spots which they find 
most favourable for supplying nutritious juice; where, soon acquir- 
ing their full growth, they remain motionless, and then are gath- 
ered off for use; a sufficient number being always left for the pro- 
duction of new broods. The insects are soon converted into 
cochineal by a very simple process; but if, in corporal suffer- 
ance, the poor beetle feels a pang as great as when a giant 
dies, this process is not more simple than it is cruel. The in- 
sects which were collected in a wooden bowl, are thickly spread, 
from thence, upon a flat dish of earthen ware, and placed alive over 
a charcoal fire, where they are slowly roasted until the downy 
covering disappears, and the aqueous juices of the animal are to- 
tally evaporated. During this operation, the insects are constantly 
stirred about with a tin ladle, and sometimes, water is sprinkled 
upon them, to prevent absolute torrefaction, which would des- 
troy the colour, and reduce the insect to a coal; but a little habit 
teaches when to remove them from the fire. They then appear 
like so many dark round reddish grains, and take the name of 
cochineal, preserving so little the original form of the insect, that 
this precious dye was long known and sought in Europe, before 
naturalists had determined whether it was an animal, vegetable, 
or mineral substance. The garden at Rio does not, annually, pro- 
duce above thirty pounds weight of this commodity; though by 
proper treatment, from the same number of plants, ten times the 
quantity might be obtained. At Marica and Saquarima, both places 
contiguous to Cape Frio, are considerable plantations of the cactus, 
which are propagated easily from cuttings set into the earth dur- 
ing the cold and rainy season, though they afterwards thrive least 
where excluded from the sun. The insects breed and are col- 
lected in dry weather, from October until March. The preparation 
of cochineal is encouraged by the trade being laid open, which 
had formerly been a monopoly to the crown. 

Sir G. Stauntc-jst; 



458 THE FLOWERS Q* 

SECTION CXLV. 
Amusements of Paris. 

IF the morning at Paris is devoted to business, the evening at 
least belongs to pleasure; over those hours she holds an undivided 
empire, but is worshipped at innumerable altars, and hailed by 
ever varying rituals. 

During the last winter, the amusements of twenty-four theatres, 
which were opened every night, were every night succeeded by 
public and private balls, in such numbers, that there were no less 
than two thousand ball-rooms inscribed on the registers of the 
police, which keeps its wakeful vigils over every sort of amuse- 
ment, in all their gradations, from the bright blaze of waxen tapers 
which displays the charms of nymphs dressed a la sauvage, or 
a la grec, who grace the splendid, bal de Richelieu, to the oily 
lamp which lights up the seventh story, or the vaulted cellar, 
where the blind fidler's animating scrape, calls the sovereign peo- 
ple to the cotillion of wooden shoes. 

These two thousand ball-rooms of the capital afford ample proof, 
that no revolution has taken place in the manners of the French, 
and that they are still a dancing nation. They have indeed of 
late, fully demonstrated to the world, that they are capable of 
greater things; and that when the energies of their souls are called 
forth, they can follow Buonaparte across the bridge of Lodi; but 
when their minds return to their natural position, every barrack 
has a room appropriated for dancing, and the heroes of Arcole, as 
well as the muscadins of Paris. 

*'A11 knit hand, and beat the ground, 
"In a light fantastic round." 

The fetes of the court, it is asserted by the few persons re- 
maining in France, by whom they were frequented, were but taw- 
dry splendour compared with the classical elegance which prevails 
at the etes of our republican contractors. As a specimen of these 
private balls, I shall trace a short sketch of a dance lately given 
by one of the furnishers of stores for fleets and armies, in his spa- 
cious hotel, where all the furniture, in compliance with the present 
fashion at Paris, is antique; where all that is not Greek is Roman; 
where stately silken beds, massy sophas, worked tapestry, and 
gilt ornaments, are thrown aside as rude Gothic magnificence, and 
every couch resembles that of Pericles, every chair that of Cicero; 
■where every wall is finished in arabesque, like the baths of Titus, 
and every table upheld by Castors and Polluxes, is covered with 
Athenian busts and Etruscan vases; where that modern piece of 
furniture, a clock, is concealed beneath the classic bar of Phoebus, 
and the dancing hours; and every chimney-iron is supported by a 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 459 

sphinx ov a griffin. The dress of his female visitors was in perfect 
harmony with the furniture of his hotel; for although Parisian 
ladies are not suspected of any obstinate attachment to Grecian 
modes of government, they are most rigid partizans of Grecian 
modes of dress, adorned like the cotemporaries of ^spasia — the 
loose light drapery, the naked arm, the bare bosom, the sandalled 
feet, the circling zone, the golden chains, the twisting tresses, all 
display the most inflexible conformity to the laws of republican 
costume. The most fashionable hair-dresser of Paris, in order to 
accommodate himself to the classical taste of his fair customers, 
is provided with a variety of antique busts as models; and when 
he waits on a lady, inquires if she chooses to be dressed that day a 
la Cleopatre, la Diane, or la Psyche? Sometimes the change- 
ful nymph is a vestal, sometimes a Venus; but the last rage has 
been the Niobe; of late, fat and lean, gay and grave, old and young, 
have been all a la Niobe; and the many-curled periwig, thrown 
aside by the fashionable class, now decorates the heads of petty 
shop-keepers. 

The fair Grecians being determined not to injure the contour of 
fine forms by superfluous incumbrances, no fashionable lady at Paris 
wears any pockets, and the inconvenience of being without is ob- 
viated by sticking her fan in her belt, sliding in a flat purse of Mo? 
rocco leather, only large enough to contain a few louis, at the side 
of her neck, and giving her snuff-box and her pocket handkerchief 
to the care of the gentleman who attends her, and to whom she 
applies for them whenever she has occasion. 

For a short time during the winter, in defiance of frost and snow, 
the costume of a few reigning belles was not a la greque, but a 
la sauvage. To be dressed a la sauvage, was to have all that 
part of the frame which was not left uncovered clad in alight dra- 
pery of flesh colour. The boddice, under which no linen was 
worn, shifts being an article of dress long since rejected at Paris, 
both by the Greeks and the Savages,) was made of knitted silk, 
clinging exactly to the shape, which it perfectly displayed; the 
petticoat was on one side twisted up by a light festoon; and the 
feet, which were either bare or covered with a silk stocking of flesh- 
colour, so woven as to draw upon the toes like a glove upon the 
fingers, were decorated with diamonds. These gentle savages, 
however, found themselves so rudely treated whenever they ap- 
peared, by the sovereign multitude, that at length the fashions of 
Otaheik- were thrown aside, and Greece remains the standing order 
of the day. 

But to return to the contractor, and his ball — after several hours, 
had passed in dancing cotillions, which the young women of Paris 
perform with a degree of perfection — a light nymphish grace un- 
seen elsewhere — and after the waltz, which is now never forgot- 
ten at a Paris ball, had proved that the steady heads of Niobe's 
were not to be made giddy, the company were led to a supper fur- 



460 



THE FLOWERS OP 



nished with eastern magnificence, and decorated with attic taste.' 
After supper the folding doors of the saloon were thrown open to 
a garden of considerable extent, beautifully illuminated with color- 
ed lamps, and its trees bending with lavish clusters of fruits of 
every season, and of every climate, formed of ice, while fountains 
•poured forth streams of orgeat, lemonade, and liqueurs. 

Those who have been too rapidly enriched by the revolution 
have endeavoured to hide the obscurity of their origin, by mimick- 
ing the tones of those who have titles and honors to regret, till 
aristocracy has descended so low, that it will soon perhaps be ex- 
ploded like any other fashion, when taken up by the vulgar. Ma- 
ny of the fair wives of titled emigrants, or blooming widows of 
murdered nobles, who have made such second marriages, that we 
might well apostrophize them in the language of Hamlet: 

"Such an act 
"That blurs the grace and bli'sh of modest)', 
"Calls virtue hypocrite, 
"Makes marriage vows 
''As false as dicers' oaths." 

These very ladies, who have taught their new-made liege-lords 
to ape their counter revolutionary follies, will at length be ashamed 
of their aristocracy, when they find how successfully they are 
rivalled in those sentiments by their milliners and mantua makers. 
A writer of a late political pamphlet has given an admirable rea- 
son why our Parisian belles will soon lay aside the tone of eternal 
lamentations for the overthrow of despotism: "Seven years," says 
he, "have already elapsed since the epochaof the revolution: seven 
years is a period of some length in the history of a youthful beauty, 
and a lady will soon not be able to regret the monarchy, under the 
penalty of passing for old." I believe every person who has stu- 
died the female heart, will agree with this writer, that this repub- 
lic has a tolerable chance, upon this principle, of obtaining ere long 
many fair proselytes. 

Miss Williams. 



SECTION CXLVI. 

Curious Account of the Troglodytes in Jirabia. ■ 

A SMALL district in Arabia was once inhabited by a people 
descended from those Troglodytes, of whom ancient history in- 
forms us, that they resembled brutes rather than men; not indeed, 
in their outward form, but in their depraved dispositions and sav- 
age manners. It is true, they walked erect; they were not shag- 
ged with hair; their countenances too, and voice, were human; 
and they Were not armed with either tusks or talons. Yet fierce- 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 461 

ness and cruelty were predominant in their bosoms: they were 
.strangers to justice and humanity. 

A prince of foreign extraction once reigned over them, who en- 
tertained the ambition of subduing their barbarous natures; and, 
with this view, attempted to rule with severity. They conspired 
against him, put him to death, and extirpated his family. 

Thus they were reduced to the necessity of erecting a new gov- 
ernment. Innumerable and violent were the contests that ensued. 
At length, however, they chose a number of magistrates. But 
scarcely were these magistrates chosen, when they were massacred 
by this incorrigible generation. 

Anarchy followed, and was embraced. Every individual declar- 
ed loudly against subjection. Every one thought himself sufficient 
to take care of his own interest's; and why give himself any con= 
eern about another's? 

"Why should I harass myself to death," said a Troglodyte, 
"for the benefit of those who care for me as little as I do for them? 
No; I will not do it. My solicitude shall be centered in myself. 
I will provide for my own necessities, and live as happy as I can. 
Let my neighbours follow my example; or, if it be their pleasure, 
let them starve, and be wretched." 

It was seed time. Every one said, "I will prepare and sow 
just such a parcel of ground as shall yield sufficient for my own 
consumption. Superfluity will be needless; and I am determined 
to be at no needless pains." 

The soil of this small territory was different in different places| 
in the uplands, dry and thirsty; in the valleys, rich and well wa- 
tered. The drought of this year happened to be extreme: the con- 
sequence was, that, while the natives of the low grounds rioted in 
plenty, the mountains proved barren; their inhabitants were re* 
duced to distress and famine; and many of them perished; for their 
brethren of the vallies refused to supply them. 

The succeeding year was not less remarkable for heavy rains, 
which drowned and rotted the harvest of the low country, but 
rendered the high grounds uncommonly fertile. It was now 
the turn of the inhabitants of the vallies to implore assistance. — ■ 
They did, and were denied in their turn. 

One of the principal Troglodytes had a handsome wife: his neigh- 
bour fell in love with, and seized her; they contended, and fought, 
but, at last, agreed to refer the dispute to a certain Troglodyte, 
who had been wont to maintain some authority, so long as the re- 
public subsisted. He absolutely refused to be the umpire. He 
would not even hear their arguments. "What is it to me," said 
he, "whose this woman is? I have my land to till; and am not 
in a humour to settle yeur affairs to the neglect of my own. I beg 
of you to leave me in quiet; and decide your quarrel as you can." 
The ravisher, who had strength on his side, swore he would quit 
his life sooner than his prize. The husband had nothing left Bftt 
58 



462 THE FLOWERS OF 

to repine to no purpose at the injustice of his neighbour, and the 
unfriendliness of his judge. In his way home he met a beautiful 
young woman returning from the well. He had now no wife, and 
was pleased to supply his-loss so soon and so agreeabl}-: but it in- 
creased his satisfaction to find, that she was the wife of the very 
person who had refused to be his arbitrator. 

Another Troglodyte was in possession of a piece of ground, which 
was very fertile, and which he cultivated with great industry. 
Two of his neighbours resolved to dispossess him. Accordingly, 
they drove him from his house, and agreed mutually to enjoy and 
defend their acquisition against any invader. They did so for 
some months; till one of them choosing to be sole master, killed 
his companion. But he did not long maintain his treacherous usur- 
pation; and unable to defend himself singly against tvvo other Trog- 
lodytes, who attacked him, he was obliged at once to surrender his 
possessions and his life. 

It is recounted of another of this people, who was in distress 
for clothes, and almost naked, that he cheapened a parcel of wool. 
The merchant bethought himself: "It is true, the just price of my 
wool is but so much, enough to buy me two measures of corn; but 
I will not part with it under four times that sum; which is the value 
of eight measures." The buyer was not in a condition to dispute 
the demand. He must pay the money. "Now," says the seller, 
"I am able to provide myself with corn."' — "What! are you in 
want of corn then?" says the buyer. "I have some to dispose of: 
you will, perhaps, be a little staggered at the price. You know 
corn is extremely dear on account of the famine. Give me back 
my money, and you shall have for it a single measure; not a grain 
more, were it to save you from starving." 

A pestilential disease broke out, and ravaged this miserable coun- 
try. Its progress was checked by the arrival of a foreign physician, 
who administered his medicine so skilfully, that whoever applied 
to him was recovered. When the disorder had disappeared, he 
went about soliciting his rewards; but none could he obtain from 
his ungrateful patients; and he was obliged to return into his own 
eountry, harassed with fatigue and chagrin. It was not long, how- 
ever, before this malignant distemper made its second appearance, 
and exercised more cruel ravages. His assistance was then earnest- 
ly implored: instead of waiting his arrival, they sent to beseech 
and hasten it. "Go," said he, "miserable and ungrateful wretches; 
what would you be cured of? A more terrible, a more baneful 
poison than that which infects your bodies, preys upon your selfish, 
your cankered souls! Ye are unworthy longer to burthen the 
earth, void as ye are of humanity and justice. The gods have 
doomed you to swift perdition. Let them execute their righteous 
vengeance. It becomes not such as I am, to oppose it." 

But diseases were not necessary to extirpate such a race. Their 
injustice was sufficient. 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 463 

Two families, however, remained; two families, descended from 
ancestors, who, among such a people, might well pass for pro- 
digies! — from two men who witnessed the Workings of humanity, 
who were awake to the dictates of justice, who felt the charms of 
virtue. Separated alike from the universal depravity of their coun- 
trymen, and united in strict friendship by the mutual integrity of 
their hearts, and by that compassion each experienced for the gen- 
eral ruin he foresaw approaching; they lived together in a retir- 
ed, but happy spot, which, remote from the scenes of injustice 
and oppression, seemed pleased to be" cultivated by such hands, 
and yielded a cheerful abundance to their- virtuous industry. They 
knew no differences, no strife or contention, but in the exertion 
of good offices. Their interests were the same; their labours and 
cares reciprocal. Their days flowed in an even tenor. All was 
friendship and tranquillity. 

They loved their wives, and were tenderly beloved by them. 
Their sole solicitude was to inspire their children with the love of 
virtue; and to this point they paid an unceasing attention. They 
were continually setting before their eyes the miseries of their dis- 
tracted country; and they never failed to inculcate this lesson, that 
the interest of individuals is involved in the interest of the public; 
that these interests cannot subsist at variance: "Public virtue,'* 
said they, "is private tranquillity: be just to another, and you 
are friendly to yourself." 

Their pains were not mispent nor unrewarded. The children 
were virtuous as the parents; and begot a race virtuous as them- 
selves. They married and multiplied: but their virtue, instead of 
degenerating, was confirmed by time: the more their numbers in- 
creased, the more examples they furnished to animate the succeed' 
ing generation. 

Who can describe the happiness of this virtuous people? Gould 
they be other than the favored of heaven? they, who were so de- 
lighted to discover the gods in their works and interpositions; and 
who constantly approached them with gratitude and veneration? 
Religion co-operated with nature to soften and polish their man- 
ners. Nature left but little unfinished. That little, religion com- 
pleted. 

They instituted festivals in honor of the gods. The feasts, upon 
these occasions, were frugal indeed, but crowned with cheerful- 
ness and good humour; and the young people, of both sexes, were 
delighted to engage in the dance, though the music was simple and 
rustic. Sprightliness animated the happy band, and diffused over 
their countenances an inexpressible enchantment. The lover look- 
ed; the virgin blushed; the observant mother's heart exulted at the 
prospect of the blissful union. The father smiled; and his consent 
was not difficult to obtain. 

The Troglodytes were wont to frequent the temples of their dei- 
ties, and often preferred their petitions: but for what? They were 



4§4 THE FLOWERS OF 

too happy to employ a thought on riches. If any one prayed for 
wealth, it was not for himself, but for his neighbour. No! that 
health might be restored to a sick parent; that harmony might be 
preserved among brothers; that a husband might continue to repose 
Aipon the tenderness of his wife; and that their children might nev- 
er cease to honour them with duty and affection. These were the 
great blessings which inspired the devotion of a Troglodyte; for 
these they bowed with reverence at the altar. Did a virgin kneel, 
and offer up her tender heart, — the only boon she sighed for, was, 
"Let me be blest with the power to make one worthy man happy!" 
In the evening, after the flocks were gathered into the folds, and 
the tired ox was released from his yoke, it was their custom to 
assemble in parties, and to close the day with a frugal repast, and 
a festive or moral song. They recounted, in these compositions, 
the injustice and calamities of the original Troglodytes: they cele- 
brated the rise of the new succession; their happiness and virtue: 
they resounded the praises of the immortals. "How august their 
presence! How benign to grant assistance to those who implore 
it! How condescending to honour with their approbation, those 
who are solicitous to obtain it ! But how terrible their displeasure! 
Plow inevitable their vengeance!" They descanted on the delights 
of a country life; a life of innocence and tranquillity. Thus were 
they wont to pass their evenings, till they retired to rest, and sunk 
into slumber, which they had neither cares nor passions to prevent 
or interrupt. 

Nor, indeed, was there aught to excite their cares. Nature was 
as bountiful, as their wishes were moderate; and in this blessed 
region penury and avarice were alike unknown. They frequently 
interchanged presents; and he that had an opportunity of obliging 
another, was sure to be accounted a fortunate man. They lived 
like Qne family: their flocks fed in common, and were so blended, 
that it was difficult for any one to know his own property; and 
this was a matter too, of so much indifference, that hardly any one 
ever cared to be at the trouble of it. 

Who could be weary of recounting instances of their virtue? A 
Troglodyte said one day, "My father intends to-morrow to labor 
in his field. He shall be disappointed: for I will rise two hours 
before him; and when he goes to set about his work, he shall find 
it finished to his hand." 

"My sister," said another, "seems to cherish an inclination for 
such a one, who is of our kindred. She endeavors to conceal it, 
but in vain. I will speak for her to my father; and he will bring 
about the match." 

A third was told that a band of robbers had carried off his flock. 
"I am sorry for it," said he; there was a milk-white kid, which I 
had destined as an offering to the gods." 

Another was heard to say, "I must go to the temple, and pay 
my thanksgivings for the recovery of my brother. If he had died* 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS- 4G5 

what a brother had I lost ! And my father! how would his hoary- 
head have supported the stroke? He must have sunk with sorrow 
into the grave. " 

"I am determined," said one, to plant a couple of trees at the 
edge of my father's ground. The poor people who labour in the 
adjacent field are every-day exposed to the heat of the sun; and it 
is a pity but that they should have a shelter, to which they may 
retire for refreshment." 

In an assembly of Troglodytes, an old man spoke with severity 
of a young one, whom he suspected of having committed a crime. 
"We cannot," said his young companions, "persuade ourselves 
that he is guilty: but if he be, let him feel the misfortune to die 
the last of his family." 

A Troglodyte heard that his house had been pillaged by strang- 
ers, and entirely stripped of its furniture. "I must be angry with 
them," said he, "for their injustice, otherwise I should wish them 
well with their acquisition; and that they may enjoy it longer and 
with more satisfaction than I have done." 

Such was the virtue, such the happiness of the Troglodytes. 
But their happiness could not escape the envy, nor their virtue 
skreen them from the violence of the people of some neighbouring 
districts, who assembled, and determined, under some false pre- 
tence to rob them of their cattle. The Troglodytes heard of their 
resolution; and immediately despatched ambassadors, who address- 
ed them in this manner: 

"What have the Troglodytes done to excite your enmity? Have 
they carried off your wives? Have they driven away your flocks-, 
or your herds? Have they laid waste your country? We are in- 
capable of committing such crimes: we reverence the gods. What 
then do you want of us? Is it wool for your clothing? milk for 
your flocks? or do you stand in need of the fruits of the earth? 
Lay down your arms, and come among us like friends. Your 
wants shall be cheerfully and amply supplied. But if you attempt 
to supply yourselves by hostilities, we swear by the immortal gods! 
by whatever is great and sacred! we will not be the tame spectators 
of" such outrages: we will repel force by force; we shall look upon 
you as a savage and brutal people; and destroy you as we should 
wolves and tigers." 

This remonstrance was treated with contempt: it could not di- 
vert the barbarians from attacking an inoffensive people; who, they 
thought, trusted to their innocence alone for their defence. 

But they were mistaken. The Troglodytes stood ready to re- 
ceive them, animated by the most heroic courage; undaunted at 
the numbers of their enemies, but astonished at their iniquity. 
They had placed their wives and children in the midst of them. 
They were resolved to perish to a man. No one thought of 
flight or safety; or felt any concern upon his own account. Each 
^ne devoted himself for another. The spn was eager to shed his 



-1(36 THE FLOWERS OF 

blood for his father. The husband offered himself up a joyful 
victim for his wife and children. Gladly would the brother sur- 
render his life for his brothers. Not a man but what was fired 
with the enthusiasm of a patriot. To die for his country, for the 
Troglodyte people, was, in the eyes of every man, glorious and 
desirable. If any one fell, his place was instantly supplied; and 
his successor, far from being dispirited, was inflamed with addi- 
tional courage to revenge the death of his companion. 

What could withstand such a band of heroes? Their barbarous 
enemies could not. Injustice was no match for such virtue. The 
dastardly robbers gave way. They who had not been ashamed 
to attack unjustly, were not ashamed to betake themselves to flight; 
unable to resist the bravery of the Troglodytes, yet unaffected by 
the generous principle which inspired it ! 

In process of time, when the Troglodytes became numerous, 
they were seized with the inclination to choose a king. They 
were unanimous in the opinion, that the crown should be giver to 
some one who was distinguished for his regard to justice. They 
were alike unanimous in their choice. An old man, full of days 
and of honour, venerable in his aspect and character, was the per- 
son who occurred to every one's thoughts. But he had refused to 
assist at their deliberations: he sat pensive at home, and oppressed 
with grief. 

Deputies were sent to inform him of his election. "Alas,'"' 
said he, "could the Troglodytes find no one more worthy of their 
choice? Am I, of all men, deserving to be deemed the most just 
and virtuous among so just and virtuous a people? God forbid it 
should be truth! or that I should cherish so vain and injurious a 
thought ! But if you are determined to force the crown upon me 
. — I must receive it; but I shall receive it with the heart piercing 
regret, to think, that I have lived to see my gallant countrymen, 
to see the Troglodytes, part with their freedom." Here the tears 
trickled down his cheeks. "Miserable man that I am ! could I 
have ever thought to see this day?" He proceeded with a firmer 
tone, and a look of severity: "I guess too well what has incited 
3 7 ou to this determination. Your virtue grows a burthen. You 
are impatient to be delivered from its bondage. You are aware, 
that in the state in which you have hitherto lived, it is absolutely 
necessary; that you cannot subsist without it; that without it, you 
must fall into the calamities and desolation of your unfortunate 
ancestors. But you wish to be rescued from this danger at an 
easier rate; by subjection to a prince, instead of subjection to vir- 
tue; by obedience to laws less restrictive than the customs and 
manners you have hitherto been wont to observe. Ambition, 
riches, and pleasure, begin to have charms for you; and you long 
to be placed in a situation in which you may couit these vain de- 
lusions; in which you may aspire to be great; ma} r pursue riches; 
or indulge in luxury: in which you may lay aside the solicitude 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 467 

after virtue, provided you are cautious to avoid open and dangerous 
crimes." Here the tears burst forth afresh, and streamed in great 
abundance. He paused for a moment, "And what," resumed 
he, "What is the nature of the office you impose upon me? To 
command? Whom or what shall I command? Am I to command 
a Troglodyte to be virtuous? What can I command him, which 
his own disposition would not first suggest, and more powerfully 
prompt him to do ! Alas, my friends ! I am almost arrived at the 
end of my journey, fatigued and spent. My time among you can 
be but short. I shall soon retire from this scene; soon return to 
your brave fathers, those venerable, those sacred men ! How will 
they be grieved to hear of their degenerate offspring! How shall 
I tell them, that their sons can stoop to aught but virtue?" 

, Montesquieu, 



SECTION CXLVII. 

Elephants trained for War, and killed for Food in Cochin 
China. — Milk not used as Food. — Mountain Rice. — Man- 
net's and Customs of the Cochin-Chinese. 

THE Cochin-chinese soldiery were generally armed, besides 
sabres, with pikes of vast length, ornamented with tassels of hair, 
d}'ed red: which colour, no subject, except in the service, or by 
the order of the sovereign, was allowed to use in dress or equip- 
age. The ambassador's guard which attended his excellency on 
shore, besides firing a salute in honor of the day, went through 
several military evolutions, to the admiration not only of the sur- 
rounding multitude, but of the native troops. 

Notwithstanding the decrease of population throughout the 
country, in the course of a long civil war, the number of men in 
arms was said to be still considerable. At Hue-foo, the capital of 
the kingdom, about forty miles to the northward of Turou, thirty 
thousand men were reported to be kept in garrison, and regularly- 
exercised with muskets and match-locks every day. Their gen- 
erals relied much also upon the use of elephants trained for 
war. With this view, figures of soldiers are placed in ranks before 
the war elephants, who are taught to attack them with great fury, 
seizing them with their trunks, tossing some of them in the air, 
and trampling others under their feet. The elephant, however, 
like most other animals who subsist entirely on vegetable food, is 
naturally gentle, except where pains are taken to train them to 
acts of violence, or when provoked by great personal injury. The 
keeper of this huge animal is generally a boy, who rides upon his 
neck and governs him with ease; and the nice touch and contrac- 
tile power of the lips of his flexile proboscis, render it. in some 
instances, equal to the human fingers in adroitness. 



4GS THE FLOWERS OF 

Cochin-china is among the few places where elephants serve for 
food. They were considered as a perfect dainty there. When 
the king, or any of his viceroys in the provinces, has one of these 
animals slaughtered for his table, pieces of it are distributed about 
to persons of rank, as gratifying marks of favour. Buffaloe is 
preferred to other beef. Milk is not used for food; nor is milking 
any animal customary in the country. Yet the people have been 
•driven to* dreadful shifts for any kind of sustenance, during the 
famine which the destroying armies of contending tyrants had 
frequently occasioned; and human flesh is said to have been, some-^ 
times sold in the open market of the capital. 

Of rice, which is the most general object of cultivation, besides 
that species which requires to be sown in lands that are afterwards 
inundated, there is another known in Cochin-china, called some- 
times mountain rice, which thrives in light, dry soils, mostly on the 
sides of hills, and opened by the spade? nor does it require more 
moisture than the usual rains and dews supply, neither of which 
is frequent at the season of its vegetation. Rice is of still more 
importance to this people here, than bread is to Europeans, as the 
former require, with that grain, a very trifling relish of spices, oil, 
or animal foods Their principal indulgence is in spirituous liquors, 
tobacco, areca-nut, and betel leaf: of the two last articles, mixed 
with a little paste of lime and water, they are extravagantly fond. 
These ingredients are obtained at easy rates, being produced upon 
the spot. Persons of both sexes, and of all ranks, chew the areca- 
nut with betel, and smoke tobacco A silken bag, suspended from 
the girdle, containing those ingredients in separate divisions, con- 
stitute a necessary part of dress. Every man who can afford it, 
is attended by a servant, whose office is to follow his master with 
his apparatus for smoking. The gentleman carries only a small 
case Or purse, for his areca-nut and betel, generally slung over his 
shoulder with an ornamented ribband hanging down to his waist. 

The custom of smoking, to which the men are more addicted 
than the women, affords a sort of occupation that prevents the irk- 
someness of total inaction, without requiring exertion or occasion- 
ing fatigue. It is, therefore, often preferred to more useful, but 
laborious employment; and, except occasional efforts, made under 
particular circumstances, indolence was prevalent among the men; 
while the women were assiduousl3 r employed in domestic occupa- 
tions, or in the labours of agriculture. In towns they served fre- 
quently as agents or brokers to merchants from foreign countries, 
living with them at the same time as their concubines; and, in both 
respects, they were remarkable for their fidelity. Concubinage 
was supposed to be no dishonour; and, in this instance, there 
seemed to be less difference in the morals of the two sexes than in 
Europe. The exterior difference between the sexes, appeared 
also less glaring; for the dresses of both were nearly of the same 
form. They consisted of loose robes, with small collars round 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 469 

the neck, and folding over the breast with long sleeves, cover- 
ing the hands. People of rank, especially the ladies, wore several 
of these gowns, one over the other; the undermost reached the 
ground; the succeeding ones were each shorter than that im- 
mediately under it. They were often of different colours, the 
display of which made a gaudy appearance as the wearer walked 
along. Linen was not known amongst them. They had, next 
the skin, vests and trowsers of slight silk or cotton. Turbans 
were frequently worn by the men; and hats, sometimes by the 
women, but never caps. The most richly dressed of both sexes, 
used no shoes. 

If a solid settlement in Cochin-china, were to be productive of 
advantage to any European nation, it must particularly be so to 
Great Britain; because, besides the opening it would make for the 
sale of its own manufactures among the people of the country, 
the British possessions in Hindostan, would be sure of a very con- 
siderable demand from thence for their productions. 

Sir G. Staunton. 



SECTION CXLVIII. 

Vineyards and Wine of Tokay in Hungary. 

FROM the situation of this town, on a rich soil, and at the 
junction of two considerable rivers, one would expect to find it 
great and opulent: why it is not, I do not know. It is but a little 
paltry town, though it certainly has a fine situation. The inn was 
so bad, that the director of the Royal Salt Magazine, to whom I 
had a letter of introduction, would not suffer me to stay there, but 
brought me to his own house, where I remained, and was hospita- 
bly entertained during my stay here. 

Tokay, not unlike a great part of mankind, derives fame from 
the merits of others. It produces only a small part of the excel- 
lent wine that bears its name; but it has had the good fortune of 
giving it to a hilly district extending twenty or thirty miles north- 
ward: in breadth it is much less considerable. 

The vines, when first planted, are cut down at a knot, to within 
a span of the soil, and the superfluous young shoots are cut off 
every spring at the same place: by this means, ahead is formed, 
which increases yearly; sometimes they are very large, but the 
best size, is that of a child's head. When the wines have repaid 
by their fruit the industrious labourer for his trouble, which is late 
in autumn, the stumps are covered an inch or two thick with soil, 
«nd then each represents a mole-hill. Often, it is said, the hus- 
bandman is seen following his gatherers occupied in his work, lest 
early frost or snow should prevent its being done; sometimes even 
the branches, if designed for layers, are covered. Some vine? 
S9 



470 THE FLOWERS OF 

dressers take out the sticks and lay them in bundles, others leave 
them standing. As soon as the winter is over, and the weather 
begins to grow milder, which is about the middle of March, and 
often at the beginning, the stumps are again uncovered, and 
the soil about them turned up: this labour is followed by the dress- 
ing, which is generally done as soon as the season will permit; that 
is, at the end of March, or at the beginning of April. 

Though in warm seasons the earliest grapes are ripe in the mid- 
dle of August, it is the latter end of September before the greater 
part are eatable; and as the grapes for pressing must be fully ripe, 
the vintage is delayed as long as possible; generally to the feast 
of St. Simon and St. Jude, which is the twenty-eighth of October. 
As soon as the grapes begin to grow ripe, guards are placed in the, 
vineyards, not only to prevent the grapes from being stolen, but 
to drive the birds away from them. 

At last the season of rejoicing comes, the vintage. In every 
country this is a time of mirth and gaiety; but particularly so about 
Tokay. Many of the great nobility, though they have no estate 
here, and live in distant parts of Hungary, have a vineyard here, 
and business as well as pleasure brings many of them at this sea- 
son; and the dealers in this article, come likewise to make their 
contracts, and the friends of all concerned, from a tacit invitation, 
come to join in the general festivity; the vintage is preceded by 
fairs, so that, during this season, all is life and bustle. 

The season for gathering being come, young and old, with merry 

hearts and active hands, repair to the vineyards, and ease the vines 

of their precious loads. The spoil being carried home, the grapes 

are trodden, and the juice is taken out, and then the remaining 

juice is pressed out from the skins and stalks: both are commonly 

put together in tubs., no difference being generally made between 

the juice trodden out and that pressed out. The mixture being 

made, it is strongly stirred together. By this operation, the seeds 

are separated from the flesh of the grapes, and come to the top, 

and are taken out with a net or sieve: thus it remains in the same 

vessel, covered over for a couple of days, till fermentation begins; 

and this is suffered to continue about three days, according to the 

weather. If the fermentation is continued too long, the wine 

receives from the skins a disagreeable brown colour, and forms a 

deal of yeast and sediment in the cask. Nothing now remains 

to be done, but to pour this liquor through a cloth or sieve into 

the barrels in which it. is to be kept. 

The best wine does not long remain in the place of its growth: 
a great part of it is soon sent into the cellars of the nobility in 
other parts of Hungary; and the greatest quantity is to be found 
in the counties of Zyps and Liplau in the north, from whence it 
is sent into Poland. The Polish Magnates are the best customers, 
particularly for the Ausbruche, which is the dearest European 
wine that is: here, in the country, a bottle of the best is valued 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 471 

always at about a ducat, that is near half a guinea. I dined once 
at the coffee-house at Pest with a few friends: we had only a plain 
dinner, for which we paid but a moderate price; besides com- 
mon wine we had some Tokay: when the waiter came to be paid, 
he asked each how many glasses he had drank of it, and then 
added twenty creutzers, (about eight-pence,) for each glass to the 
scot of every drinker of Tokay. Tokay is no doubt a fine wine, 
but I think no ways adequate to its price: there are few of my 
countrymen, except on account of its scarceness, would not prefer 
to it good claret or burgundy, whichdo not cost above one-fourth 
of the price. Some of the sweetish Spanish wines, begging its 
pardon, are in my opinion equally good; and unless it be very 
cold, it is too sweet for an Englishman's palate; but, as I have 
often said, de gustibtis non est disputandum; and I hope my 
good Hungarian friends will pardon-my want of judgment, though 
I know how much they are prepossessed in favour of their cara 
patria and its dear produce. — But happy are the people who are 
thus proud of their country, and who think their territory an 
earthly paradise, and their government a model of perfection; yes, 
and happy is the pair, who find in each other every charm and 
every virtue; and the parents who see in their children every ju- 
venile merit; and the children who look up to their parents as 
their guardian angels. Without these instinctive attachments, 
patriotism, connubial love, parental kindness, and filial affection, 
would hang by a very slender thread, and the smallest breath 
of jarring interests would overrun public and private felicity. 

Dr. TownsoNo 



SECTION CXLIX. 
Cicero's Villa at Pompeii. 

AT a little distance from Pompeii, there is a country house, 
the whole plan of which is not visible. It appears to have belong- 
ed to some man of note: we flattered ourselves with the pleasing 
idea, that this was the villa which Cicero had at Pompeii: his Pom- 
peianum. 

This country seat, like the houses of the town, inclosed a court; 
the portico of which had an angular roof, that connected it with 
the flat roofs of the whole building; by which they together 
formed a covered way. These pillars were likewise covered with 
white plaster above, and with red below. We met with lovely 
little pictures in the chambers, in the taste of those that I have des- 
cribed. There was a very pleasant figure, in a private chamber, 
of a woman with the prow of a ship in her right hand, and a cor- 
nucopoia in her left. The cornucopia, no doubt, signified the 
prolific power of the country; but what the meaning of the prow of 



472 "THE FLOWERS OF 

the ship was, is not so easy to discover. The image of Stercu- 
titles, the god of manure, for even manure had its god, could cer- 
tainly not have been so lovely. 

Some of the apartments were considerably large; at least when 
compared to the small chambers of the houses in the town. The 
habitation of the villicus, or steward, was near the house of the 
master. In this house, Swinburne, a traveller of credibility and 
observation, found some glass in a window.* The long contested 
question, whether the use of glass windows was, or was not known 
to the ancients, has been decided in their favour. 

This house is situated on the side of a hill, and has three sto- 
ries on the side toward the garden, built over the kitchen, and the 
appertaining apartments: you step into the court from the second 
story. The garden is not large; and in this small place there was 
a little square pond, in the middle of which a fountain rose. 
There was likewise a garden-houSe, the pillars of which are still 
standing. After a lapse of seventeen hundred years, this garden 
once again is cultivated. We found many double gilliflowers in 
it, and peach trees in bloom. There is a person that lives in the 
house of the villicus, who is probably an overseer of the work- 
men. Under three sides of the garden wall, a handsome broad 
cellar runs; in which are several large amphorx, or earthen ves- 
sels. JNine bodies were found in this cellar. It is probable, that 
men, in the confusion and anguish of their minds, ran here to pro- 
tect themselves when the shower of hot ashes began. The body of 
a man was found in the house who had a puise of money in his 

hand. 

Were we but acquainted with the condition of the owner of this 
villa, we might then better compare the manner of living among 
the ancients with our own, than we possibly can as it is. Most 
of the houses, in the two streets of the town, that have been un- 
covered, appear to have belonged to artisans: as such, they are not 
bad. In one house, several books and surgical instruments were 
found. It belonged, no doubt, to a physician, and is better built 
than the others. Still, however, it appears, that the houses of the 
ancients possessed fewer conveniences than those of the moderns. 
I ascribe this difference to the mildness of the climate of the south; 
and to the manner of living among the Greeks and Romans, who 
never saw company except at their meals. 

The mind is impressed with very peculiar feelings, on wander- 
ing through these dwellings of times of yore. The recollection of 
their antiquity, and of the fearful accidents of nature by which 
three towns were destroyed, associates itself with the shades of 

* The words of Swinburne are — "In the window of a bed-chamber, some 
panes of glass axe still remaining." 



CELEBRATED TRAVELLERS. 473 

seventeen centuries: shades which, over the buried habitations of 
their forefathers, wander for a moment, and then vanish. 

Child of a day! What art thou, man? 
A dream of shadows Nothing more: 
Unless the gods impart a ray 

That gives thee light, and gives thee life. 

Count Stolberg. 






SECTION CL. 



Schlosser the Philosopher — Kobreuter the Botanist. 

THE very day we came to Carlsruhe, we hurried to the house 
of Schlosser. The benevolence of his writings had long excited an 
ardent wish in me to meet him once again. The more original, 
the more animated a man's works are, the more clear and the more 
profound are his thoughts; and the more strong and flowing his 
sensations, the more certain we may be that the man is more ex- 
cellent than his writings. But whoever is of a secondary order, 
either in poetry or philosophy, exhausts himself on paper. 

You will easily imagine the joy I have felt, at meeting both 
Schlosser and the poet Jacobi; with whom I have earnestly longed 
to be acquainted these twent}' years. Schlosser is a professor at 
Friburg, in Brisgau; and comes here during the vacation. Alike 
as these men are in their ardent love of the truth and the beautiful, 
yet in their pursuits they are very different. — The liberal, dispas- 
sionate philosopher, who with the torch of truth expels the dark- 
ness of the sophist: who finds him in his most hidden recesses, 
drags him to light, and with attic irony exposes his absurdities; 
the undaunted man who dares perform the duties of a citizen, and 
cut the Gordian knot which the added ignorance of ages has ren- 
dered all but impenetrable; this man, and the feeling and tender 
poet, who, from early youth, has wooed the muse, free, friendly, 
and sportive, in t her inspiration, can neither of them be known 
without creating the most lively and the most ardent emotions of 
sympathy, of reverence, and of love. It is a general and a sacred 
law of nature, which binds the strong to the weak; the daring to 
the lovely. Is it not this law to which the human race is indebted 
for its social ties, and best enjoyments? I consider the friendship 
of men like these, as the most blooming of the flowers with which 
the hand of God, and not scantily, has interwoven the garland of 
life. 



THE end. 



f\ > 






